ANetliner

I am probably one of DC's top experts on DeCarlo's-- I have been eating there and enjoying it immensely for approximately 20 years. So count this review as definitive. DeCarlo's is one of the ultimate Washington insider places. It was the planned site of Hillary Clinton's proposed dinner with Vince Foster and Web Hubbell in the early years of the Clinton administration (Hubbell and Foster showed; Clinton didn't and her failure to attend reportedly deepened Vince Foster's depression, with historic results). Jim Lehrer mentioned DeCarlo's in his eulogy at the funeral of Meg Greenfield, the Washington Post's late, great editorial page editor. One can periodically see what appear to be FBI vans parked outside to guard presumably well-known diners. The decor at DeCarlos is old fashioned, and I happen to like it that way. It is a supremely comfortable establishment with well-spaced tables and (!) booths. A booth a DeCarlo's is one of my favorite dining venues-- in my lexicon, a booth there is "a much-coveted booth at DeCarlo's". The food: there are some excellent choices available. Appetizers: an outstanding steamed artichoke with thick, garlicky vinaigrette; an excellent arugula salad; a robust sausage. Pastas are made in house and are generally satisfying and good. Entrees: a wonderful osso bucco, an excellent steak (cooked accurately-- a rarity outside a steakhouse); great with the sauce on the side, by the way; a lovely, light squid in white wine. The specials are usually worth trying, especially on weekends. Desserts: the lemon gelatto, the white chocolate mousse. The bar has made me a good bellini in the past. Flaws: other than the (very good) risotto served with the osso bucco, no risotto options. Bread is a weak point. The bread served before dinner is disappointing. (Insider's tip: order the garlic bread, with or without cheese, not on the menu, for a small price; alternative: stick to the breadsticks.) Service at DeCarlo's is gracious. Don't try DeCarlo's if you want the next new thing. But if you want comfort and (if you order well) a good meal, you may be very happy. It's clear that many Washington insiders agree with me-- DeCarlo's has been in business a long, long time. And if you happen not to visit, that's just fine--the regulars will be happy either way.

My first choice: Hollywood East on the Boulevard in Wheaton. Excellent mix of expertly-prepared old favorites (shu mai, shrimp dumplongs, taro dumplings, pork buns, and similar) and less frequently-found choices (abalone is very worthwhile). I believe that it opens at 10.30 am on Saturdays and Sundays. Another good choice: Orient East in Silver Spring off East-West Highway. It has very little inside waiting space; get there well before opening at 11 am on weekends and be prepared to stand in line outdoors. Off the beaten path and not traditional dim sum, but an interesting alternative: North China Restaurant in downtown Bethesda. Some good options from on the traditional Chinese appetizer section of the menu, served also as dim sum: chicken roll Taiwan style, roast duck, oyster pancake, oyster roll, five flavor beef, conch in red hot sauce, leek steamed dumplings (the only dumpling served). You can get these in North China's small dining room *at any time the restaurant is open" and (drum roll) can also have these delivered to your doorstep from 11.30 am until 10 pm within a four mile radius. Also try North China for a variety of other well-executed soup, noodle and rice options and for a variety of main dishes. This family-owned restaurant has quite a pedigree-- the owners originated Joe's Noodles, and the chef (the husband) was highly trained in China. Worth a visit to North China's website to read his bio.

Count me in with the fans. Have enjoyed my two dinners at Et Voila immensely. Outstanding and flavorful hanger steak and excellent moules. The frites have been exemplar. Have also been delighted to find a Saumur red on the wine list-- not often found in the DC area and well worth it. Service has been welcoming and capable. The one caveat is that this is a small space that can feel cramped on busy evenings. Et Voila is a terrific addition to the MacArthur Boulevard dining scene.

Wanted to give Praline, in Bethesda, a well-deserved kudos. No, not an employee and not a flack-- just a frequent and happy customer. My only reservation in posting this review is that it might make it harder for me to get a table. Praline is located in the Sangamore Place shopping center off Sangamore Road in Bethesda. Praline's location is quite ordinary; fortunately, the food is not. Insider's secret: Michel Richard frequently stops by Praline to sample its cooking on his day off. You can find Richard's signed photo by the stairway to Praline's dining room. Praline's executive chef is Christian Gautois, formerly of Maison Blanche. (Don't remember Maison Blanche? It was one of DC's leading French restaurants, back in the day.) Gautois is turning out some excellent food at Praline. The left side of the menu is a lovely blend of French classics and cuisine moderne, the latter administered with a light touch. The right side of the menu is a mix of moderately-priced French and American crowd-pleasers, ranging from chacuterie and escargots to chicken pot pie, a minute steak and an excellent burger. Yes, the menu is eclectic, but the food is also excellent. Some of the extremely enjoyable dishes that I've enjoyed lately from the pricier side of the menu: Bouillabaise (note the fennel and garlicky aioli) Moules frites (juicy mussels with beautifully twice-fried frites) Couscous (and I only wish it were on the menu more frequently) A lamb trio of diverse cuts and preparations, including a lovely braised shank and a delicious chop Salads are inventive and soups (which change daily) and desserts are excellent. The wine list was expanded recently and has some enjoyable offerings, both red and white. A charcuterie plate and a cheese plate are also worthwhile, as is salmon with ratatouille-- all from the moderately-priced right-hand side of the menu. I'm told that French embassy employees frequent Praline for the pastries, including the French macaroons. If you're taking the kids along, they'll likely appreciate the burger and some of the plainer fare. Praline hits a number of notes: family-friendly for lunch and early in the evening, more foodie-friendly a bit later on. One caveat-- get there by 8.30 pm if you want a table for dinner. Praline is owned and managed by two fomer White House chefs. The extremely talented Patrick is the force behind the baked-in-house pastries and breads (which can be purchased during the day at a downstairs pastry case) and the extremely personable and capable Susan manages restaurant operations. Of late, Philippe has proved a knowledgeable and welcoming maitre d', who ably guides the diner around through the day's best options. I'm generally at Praline for dinner, but it is open (and busy) at lunch, and has carry-out service for pastries early in the day. With the arrival of Christian Gautois, Praline deserves a wider look.