Escoffier

I like Tim C. and some of the people (stringers?) the WaPo has have added a much needed variety to the food writing. I do remember when the Food section was seriously packed with ads for local food stores, recipes and the now -and-then fluff piece. It's nice to see bylines by some people who are familiar names on DonRockwell get published and Joe Yonan has added a nice vegetarian leavening but still, Food is a mere shadow of its former robust self. Not sure why Tim C. isn't writing those Twenty Dollar meal articles anymore but someone else picks up that assignment now and then. My (unfounded as of now) fear is that Tim C. will leave for main article writing at another venue and we'll be stuck in Mediocrity Land with those generic review/puff pieces.

I tend to agree with you, Don. There seems to be more cheerleading (albeit sometimes lukewarm or tepid) than criticism. I vaguely remember (dis-remember?) a review that said something along the lines of "Inn at Little Washington prices with Harold of Chinatown food". That wasn't written by the WaPo resident food taster obviously. Unfortunately, I can't find that review now but I do know that people weren't exactly breaking down the door to get "tickets' to fill seats.

You left out one fine selector of extremely great wines, Zora. We attended the soft opening of Pennsylvania 6 last year and were totally blown away by Mark's wine pairings.

Maybe Peter is busy cloning himself in all those kitchens and one day there will be a separate census count just for Peter Chang. I understand that Peter is going to have his own Sales section on Amazon. You'll be able to buy cloned Peter Chang chef's who will cook for you and then open a restaurant in your kitchen.

After what seemed like the renovation that would never end, BRABO reopened it's doors tonight. Now with an expanded bar area to satiate the millennials who seem to throng there and a prettied up (and much brighter and lighter in every sense of the word) more formal dining area in the rear of the room. Not being the type to sit in a bar area, we chose the more formal dining room area. New wallpaper, clock that replaced that mysterious cleft in the wall, no more dark, DARK wallpaper (did I mention the room was considerably brighter?), new dishes, new cutlery, and last but definitely not least, new linens, the room shouted (well, in a sophisticated way) "Look, enjoy, and put away the flashlight, you can now read the men with the ambient lighting." The only (but biggest) problem we could see with the new layout is the noise. Not genteel cocktail sipping noise, but third row, center Die Valkyriie climax quality noise. Either the room acoustics have become harder or I'm slipping into my dotage (and you can keep your opinion on that to yourself, thank you). However, if you can overlook the noise level, the room is quite nice and very comfortable. About the service. In some ways, it was like starting over. There were a number of new faces and fortunately a lot of familiar ones as well. Service was a bit hit and miss a few times but always with sophistication when it delivered. Dishes were placed and removed in such a way that my conversation with the lady who endures me was never interrupted. It might have been due to me ordering the five course tasting menu and she ordering ala carte (more on the food shortly) or opening day jitters but at times there seemed to be unusually long times between courses. Now that brings us to the only reason to ever go to any restaurant, the food. So... That aforementioned five course tasting menu. As difficult as it may be to believe, I did not order the paired wines. I entrusted my one wine to one of the best sommelier's in Alexandria. Phillip has never disappointed and he did not tonight. A bright, crisp, sparking rose that I was too distracted to ask the name of. I will find out, I promise, it was excellent. On to the five course tasting menu. Reasonably priced at $75, it's an appetizer, three courses and dessert. How can you go wrong? The appetizer was Dayboat Scallop Crudo. Presented with a thinly sliced PA apple slice, a dot of rieisling gelee and puffed wild rice. A very nice combination of crisp (the apple), smooth (the scallop) and crunch, this was an outstanding way to start the meal. The secondi was Grilled Mediterranean Sardines. Possibly the best grilled sardines in the DC metro area are served by Chef Roberto Donna, but Chef McClure's version is very close. The only jarring note (to me) was what seemed to be a very forward tapenade. Made from stewed tomato, olive oil emulsion, kalamata olives, and pine nuts, it almost overpowered the more delicate taste of the sardines. The third was Herbed Strozzapreti with rice beans, spinach, and sage-mangalica butter. Due to the way the pasta is curled into cigar shaped lengths, the ends were perfectly al dente, however, the centers of the pasta were somewhat undercooked. It didn't prevent the dish from being devoured but with a bit more time in the cooking, this would have been a memorable dish. The beans and spinach, and butter combination more than made up for the chewiness of the pasta. The entree was Grilled New York Strip with pomme puree, wild mushrooms and sauce bordelaise. The steak was perfectly cooked, tender and very flavorful. I have only one complaint and it's about the most pedestrian part of the dish. When are potatoes going to be shown some respect once again? Pureed potatoes remind me of something between babyfood for a 3 to 6 month old to library paste. What is wrong with potatoes that have some body? And that, boys and girls, is my main gripe. Oh yeah, dessert. Well of course I had dessert. a Passion Fruit s'more. A milk-chocolate, lime ganache, passion fruit marshmallows, graham cracker crumbs, raspberry accompanied by frozen yogurt. Okay, I have a serious lust for chocolate ganache and this did not disappoint. A nice way to finish the meal. So what was the verdict? With a few more days for the staff to become familiar with the somewhat new layout, some minor touches in the timing, BRABO will once again take it's place as the place to celebrate those serious accomplishments with serious food in the formal dining room and if our observation of the informal bar area hold up, a great place to enjoy that happy hour and the moules-frite after work. Our total bill minus tip but with tax was $140. That was one five course tasting meal, one meal of three dishes and dessert ala carte and two glasses of rose. Not a bad dish in the entire meal.

You're much better off taking Rt 29 South to Sweet Sugar's in Reidsville, NC or Lexington BBQ in Lexington, NC (whodathunkit?). Not to start the BBQ wars again, but Texas BBQ is not very exciting, I rank it way behind Kansas City, which is way behind Memphis which is on roughly the same level as NC (BBQ, like taste in food and clothes, is one of those nice individualistic things, YMMV).

The home of dumplings floating in a lake of soy sauce (oh, and according to them, "American's don't eat whole fish")

Bi Bim Bap in the heated stone pot is Dolsot Bi Bim Bap (one of my favorites). The dolsot means stone pot. That way you know what to order next time. The best way to eat it is to mix the veggies and the egg and red pepper paste, being very careful to leave a thin layer of rice at the bottom of the bowl. As you eat, the rice on the bottom cooks and crisps. Once you finish everything else, you get the absolute best part (well, to me anyway). That crisped rice is wonderful. You break it up with your spoon into bite sized pieces and savor the subtle flavors. (incidentally, crisping rice like this is also common in Persian cooking where it also a treat). It sounds like they added bori cha (corn or barley tea) to the rice at the bottom of the dolsot. I prefer it without the bori cha. Try it that way the next time, you may like it. Incidentally, the fish at To Sok Jip is amazing as well. I'm not Hanguk either but I sure am glad I have a Korean wife who has introduced me to such wonderful food.

The last time I was in Johnny's Half-Shell was the last night they were opened on 19th Street, NW. Please tell me they're back there (or close). I never went to the Capitol Hill location because I never felt that any place other than 19th Street could ever duplicate the atmosphere of the original.

You know, I have this sinking feeling that there just may be more than one Peter Chang who was born in China (or Cleveland for that matter). Who's to say that Katy, TX Peter Chang is or is not the long lost cousin of Leroy Chang who runs an IHOP in Iowa City, Iowa? Or possibly, from some slightly confused (as usual) political wannabee to another political wannabee: "I know Peter Chang, I've eaten at Peter Chang's 300 restaurants and you ain't no Peter Chang, Earl."

Yeah. Peter is cooking there 3 nights a week, along with the 3 nights a week in Charlottesville, 3 in Fredericksburg, 6 in Silver Spring, Muskogee, Altoona, Islamabad, and Southern Siberia. Peter is bringing new meaning to molecular dining by sending his DNA to all of his restaurants and having a sous-chef clone him.

Finally found a way to kill those endless TS quotes and blatherings of next-day re-re-review of some restaurant TS personally found catered to his tastes. It wasn't all in vain after all. Thanks for shortening the title Don. I wonder what TS review I can kill this week?

Seafood sounds good, non-seafood sounds kinda okay but nothing to rush out to purchase. Tim Carman can rite reel gud.

Give me Tim Carman any day. At least he knows how to eat Korean food.

(Pardon me while I don (no, not that Don) my plaid pants and bring out my Chinese to Engrish dictionary)...Broccoli does not exist in that form in China. Silly boy add green stuff to dish.

Much appreciated by the cognoscenti, unfortunately she never received the recognition that singers like Sarah Vaughan, Lena Horne, and Nina Simone received. She was indeed a jazz purist to the end and I feel lucky to have known her even for the short time I did.

Unfortunately it was at the end of her career. She was having health problems. She was the unofficial singer in residence for about a month (mostly on Saturday nights so it wasn't exactly a permanent gig). While she was growing old, her voice was still an amazing thing to hear. She was there because she had another falling out with her management. I'd say it was for the money but that would be conjecture on my part (even though it probably was). Again, pardon the digression.

The singer in residence in that "divey live music bar" was Shirley Horn and if you don't know who she is, she was one of the finest jazz and blues singers who ever came out of the DC area. Completely unappreciated while alive and now almost forgotten, I'd suggest you get one of her albums (You Won't Forget Me or Close Enough For Love come to mind) and give it a listen. Pardon the digression but I was friends with the lady and I'd hate to see her legacy die.

As is the old Generous Georges location and Hunting Creek on King St.. Jeff Y. seems to be on a restaurant buying spree, he bought Table Talk almost a year ago .

Great food town. Try Table and Cucina 24.

Unless you're somewhere at the ends of the city limits going towards Boars Head Inn, the University of Virginia does NOT HAVE A CAMPUS. The original University has the Grounds, the Grounds are where the heart of the University lies and the rest of those buildings are for people who call the Grounds of UVa a campus. Heathens!

If you want non-flashy, you might want to try To Sok Jip. A veritable hole in the wall (a now freshly painted and new tabled hole in the wall) always with a line of people waiting to get in. It doesn't get more home-style than this place. Unless you go an hour before the usual dining times, be prepared to wait for a table. The service is NYC warm and friendly, the panchan good, and the food excellent. This isn't your mom's kitchen and if you linger after eating you'll get the "what the hell are you still here for" look because there are only about 10 tables and a lot of people waiting.

From WTOP: Ramen bar set to open in Mosaic District Is ramen becoming the next fast food (or worse, cupcake fad)?

Now you've done it, you've started a mee-guk stampede to Nakwon.

The seafood soo doo boo is one of my favorites, but Lighthouse isn't really in our regular "go-to" places. Now Gom Ba Woo is. If you go to Gom Ba Woo, try the mandu and the haemool paejun. Both are excellent but are obviously not BBQ.