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As we all know, Dean & Deluca is pricey on groceries. In the seafood department today, I spotted a batch of supersized topneck clams with a sign that I thought said $40. Is that for a pound or a dozen, I wondered. That would be in keeping with the preposterousness of some other items there. But the counterman let me know that I'd missed the decimal point -- they were going for 40Â¢ apiece! I said that was great but I am not a shucker, and value my digital appendages. A supervisor happened by and said that he would shuck them for me, preserve the liquid, pack them in ice, etc., etc., except that the shucking knife he'd ordered hadn't yet arrived. A friend with whom I was shopping said Let's take them to your place and steam them open. I said How many do you have? He said 17. I said I'll take them all. In the end, he packed 14, rejecting 3 as unworthy. Price: $5.60. They peeped open after about 20 minutes of fumes and I thumb-wrestled them apart without misadventure. They went down very easily with a squirt of lime juice. Tasty, meaty and still cool despite their steambath. What a deal!