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Kitchen 2404, Wisconsin Ave. in Glover Park - Chef Alex McCoy takes over for Brandon Williams - Closed


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Don, you can delete the "Glover Park" from the headline because the space has quickly been turned over. It's now a place called Kitchen.

Walking over to Heritage India, I thought that perhaps it was a menu tasting (the space looked unfinished to me), but no, Kitchen is open and advertising Super Bowl specials.

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I live in the neighborhood and certainly wish them well. It had gotten a bit depressing to walk by the barren wilderness that was Ceviche for the entire time it was in that space. That said, I walked by the other day and glanced at the posted menu, and I can't say I'm going to be hurrying to try it. I understand that the conventional wisdom is that we all want comfort food in the midst of economic troubles, but that doesn't have to mean boring, does it?

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I live in the neighborhood and certainly wish them well. It had gotten a bit depressing to walk by the barren wilderness that was Ceviche for the entire time it was in that space. That said, I walked by the other day and glanced at the posted menu, and I can't say I'm going to be hurrying to try it. I understand that the conventional wisdom is that we all want comfort food in the midst of economic troubles, but that doesn't have to mean boring, does it?

the cooking is even more uninspiring than the menu. fried dill pickle spears evoking fast-food hamburgers was the best thing we ordered, and it was downhill from there. the chef's meatloaf is purportedly from his mother's recipe, but this is a meatloaf that only a son could love: dark and dense, unsalted, a bit sweet, flecked with carrot and maybe onion in a syrupy sauce, served with mashed potatoes and boiled carrots that would make a nice mash for a hungry toddler in your party. far worse than the meatloaf was a chicken fried steak mostly memorable for coating your mouth with the taste of uncooked flour. biscuits, sweet and raw, were swamped in the gravy and suggested that the kitchen is not beneath taking a few shortcuts. these were from a mix. maybe some of these problems could have been avoided had the cook not been in such a rush with the order. entrees were served five minutes after the arrival of the appetizers, and the dishes left crowding the table were a slapstick accident waiting to happen, not that the shattering of plates on the floor would have been out of place. a large after-work group of diners was deafening, and the racket was ricocheting in every direction off the hard, drab walls of the dining room. deep and narrow with only one window at the front, this is not an easy space for a restaurant, but the original occupant, austin grill, made the best of things by opening it up as much as possible. kitchen has closed it in, achieving the feel of a bunker with bare prison lighting. the drinks here are too weak to provide much of a diversion. the bartender couldn't make a sidecar because he didn't have brandy, so he concocted a watery jim beam fizz. i know these are hard times, but whoever opened the doors to this place must have done so out of absolute desperation.

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i know these are hard times, but whoever opened the doors to this place must have done so out of absolute desperation.

That's too bad. According to Sietesma's "Dish" on this place, it's the same owners as Ceviche, just with a new concept. They flipped this place awfully quickly. If I recall correctly, New Year's Eve was Ceviche's last stand. To open a new restaurant in the same space in under a month sounds quick to me, but one can understand the economic imperatives to do so. But I guess it also shows in what's coming out of the kitchen at Kitchen.

I suppose it would be unkind to already wonder what might come next in this space. The new restaurant from the Sonoma crowd looks like it's getting pretty close in the old Busara space. Surfside is doing a terrific job. Along with Sushi Ko and Heritage India (and Bourbon, Rocklands, and Z Burger), Glover Park is turning into a decent little dining neighborhood.

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That's too bad. According to Sietesma's "Dish" on this place, it's the same owners as Ceviche, just with a new concept. They flipped this place awfully quickly. If I recall correctly, New Year's Eve was Ceviche's last stand. To open a new restaurant in the same space in under a month sounds quick to me, but one can understand the economic imperatives to do so. But I guess it also shows in what's coming out of the kitchen at Kitchen.

I suppose it would be unkind to already wonder what might come next in this space. The new restaurant from the Sonoma crowd looks like it's getting pretty close in the old Busara space. Surfside is doing a terrific job. Along with Sushi Ko and Heritage India (and Bourbon, Rocklands, and Z Burger), Glover Park is turning into a decent little dining neighborhood.

Bring back Facia Luna, and Germaines!!!! Anyone remember Germaines?

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$7.50.

Sometimes, you're better off escaping with your limbs still attached, and that was the negligible price I paid tonight at Kitchen for doing so. The restaurant was completely empty at around 9 PM on this Father's Day Sunday, except for about eight people sitting at the bar.

"Show me your tits!" one girl yelled to her friend.

Another girl at the bar started babbling about having a threesome with her boyfriend.

The first girl took a step back from the bar, and someone else started lobbing (the frozen) tater tots up in the air, the girl trying to catch them in her mouth.

And I was just sitting there, sipping a pint of Sierra Nevada Summerfest Lager ($6), looking at the menu, and seeing the dishes trickle out to the bar patrons. As giant shrimp reported up above, "the cooking is even more uninspired than the menu." It sure looked that way to me, and this place is awfully low on my priority list at this point, pretty much in the same region as Lucky Strike.

$6.00 for my beer, plus $1.50 tip for the bartender, and me not having to waste money, calories, or time on anything other than a twenty-minute observation session? Priceless.

Cheers,

Rocks.

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A few months ago, Sietsema was asked in his Wednesday chat if he ever changed his mind and decided not to review a place after initially planning to. In his response, he suggested that it had, in fact, happened recently with a place that was so disappointing that it was only going to get a First Bite column, but no subsequent full review. Tom wouldn't divulge which restaurant was the culprit, but I'm pretty sure it was Kitchen. The timing was right (the harsh First Bite came a few weeks later), and there hasn't since been a full review. Sounds like he missed an opportunity to give out the rare goose egg.

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Last weekend, I went exploring in Glover Park and happened upon Alex McCoy's new restaurant, the southern themed The Kitchen. I was pleasantly greeted by an old friend on the wait staff who made some wonderful recommendations. We started with Bloody Mary's, southern style in mason jars. They were perfectly spiced and garnished. Then brunch arrived and things only got better. I had the biscuits and gravy. The gravy was nice and thick with lots of sausage and some REALLY good sage and cheddar biscuits. It was one of the brunch meals I have ever had. The better half had the croque madame which she said was out of this world. We split some cheese grits which were wonderfully authentic. If you have the time, like southern food and good service, I would recommend making your way to The Kitchen in Glover Park. You will not be disappointed.

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ReconJohn- I agree, but I went for dinner, and was pleasantly shocked by how good the food was. Tried the burger, pork bbq, and fries. Simple yet quite good. I think the place was considered a disaster initially after going through multiple chefs. But I had heard from friends that the food had improved considerably under the latest chef, and I'm glad I gave it a chance. Make no mistake, this isn't fine dining, but if you set your expectations appropriately (casual southern/american cuisine) then I don't think you'd be disappointed at this price point.

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