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Toki Underground, Atlas District - Chef Jonathan Uribe Steps in for Erik Bruner-Yang - Hakata-Style Ramen on 13th and H Street NE


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Hmmm.  The 101st post for Toki.  I made it here for the first time today.  I won't write a ton since, well, there have already been 100 posts that have pretty well covered the restaurant, the chef/owner, the high-risk parking situation, etc.

My brief take in bullet form:

- My first visit here was prompted by Don's breaking news again that they were now serving lunch.  Hard for me to justify a couple hour wait for any restaurant so I'll usually just wait for a wait to get around that and lunch was it for Toki.  Daikaya, where I"m semi-regular, is another reason I hadn't yet been to Toki.

- Chef Erik was there today but had two other staff doing most of the cooking.

- I ordered the classic ramen since my first visit.  Also the dumplings and a side of kimchee.  Really enjoyed the ramen. Maybe not quite as much as Daikaya's but it's close.  Here they use what they call a "triple stock" with the traditional bone broth, then a chicken (or pork?) stock and finally a dashi broth all combined.  Delicious broth but maybe not as "traditional" as Daikaya's? I know Toki's is called a "Taiwanese ramen" but not sure what that is other than a much spicier version of what is served here and at Daikaya (and Ren's); as explained here.  The dumplings were tasty but very soft given how they're steamed with plenty of water.  I'd order them again but prefer dumplings with a bit more structure and firmness.  Loved the fresh kimchee. Not quite as pungent as the versions at better Korean spots here and in Korea but quite delicious and a very generous portion.

- All in, Toki seems like a hipper version of ramen shops like Ren's and Daikaya.  Hipper in terms of the staff/clientele. Hipper menu. Definitely hipper decor.  I really enjoyed it and would definitely go back. But I won't wait an hour or more.

Very glad Toki is part of the DC food landscape.  Loved the ramen and the kimchee. And, really looking forward to Maketto.

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Went to TU pop-up at Union Market yesterday.  Had a bowl of pho ($9) and spicy bbq pork bao ($2).  The pho was nice, but I had my heart set on ramen so I couldn't quite get over it.  The soup base was really good, had dried shrimp heads and beef.  The bao were really good, hadn't had those before.  So I'm glad they are mixing the menu up, just need to get my mindset right for it.  Pop-ups are such a weird breed, I wonder whether I should adjust my expectations for them, and how.

So now it's in a different stand at UM where the FreshFarms stand used to be (and Bazaar Spices used to be before that), instead of where the Border Springs stand used to be, and the seating/tables are much more comfortable and accommodating.  The downside is that basically it only seats about 5 now, with no standing room.  I think you can choose to eat at one of the common tables, assuming there is one.  So, a winner for a loner lunch, I'll be back.

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Well now it looks like you'll have to adjust your expectations to breakfast -- http://dc.eater.com/archives/2013/11/13/toki-union-market-popup-will-be-breakfast.php

Yeah, I stopped into Peregrine at UM right at 8am yesterday to pick up some beans, and saw Erik and a couple other guys getting things going...I thought it was awfully early for them to be there, but then saw the "Street food breakfast" announcement on their twitter feed.  I love how they're keeping us all on our toes here.

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I am enjoying my morning Biloya, and see that TU has moved yet again, occupying two stalls near Harvey's Market where Oh! Pickles, Mama's Organic, Bear's Honeypot, and a bakery whose name escapes me all have revolved thru.

Looks like at the Oh Pickles spot they are setting up a bao station for quick carryout. In the other spot for sitdown there is a long bench with tables that could probably sit 6-8, so thats an improvement. There are no chairs opposite the long bench, so once again looks like a spot for the efficient luncher. I hope they stay there for the duration of the pop up.

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Abura Tsukemen, Toki Classic, and Red Miso Chocolate Chip Cookies are all still going strong here - the Hakata style broth is especially nice now that the weather has turned.  By definition, the broths at Toki have a heft that their new competition around town lack.  Apples and oranges I know, and the other guys are not without their charms, but if I get a craving for a bowl this is the stuff I'm thinking of 99% of the time.  

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You're right about heft, and apples/oranges.  For me, though, this isn't the platonic ideal.  To repeat what I wrote on CH:

Finally got around to trying Toki -- the tonkotsu ramen, for lunch. Very nice, tasty bowl of soup. I'd get it again if in the area. But not remotely worth an hour+ wait and, more to the point, not nearly as good, IMHO, as Daikaya, which has better veggies, better pork, and much better noodles. Of course, they are apples and oranges in terms of ramen styles, and if your taste runs to the unctuous richness of tonkotsu, then Toki might be more your cup of . . . soup. But for me, Daikaya is it. (Ren's, too, which I'd rank between the two. And the Taro lunch special . . . .)

Abura Tsukemen, Toki Classic, and Red Miso Chocolate Chip Cookies are all still going strong here - the Hakata style broth is especially nice now that the weather has turned.  By definition, the broths at Toki have a heft that their new competition around town lack.  Apples and oranges I know, and the other guys are not without their charms, but if I get a craving for a bowl this is the stuff I'm thinking of 99% of the time.  

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 an hour+ wait 

A bit incredible to me that the legacy of Toki Underground won't be a young chef who really burst on the scene, the legacy will be this wait time (not trying to single out Marty L., this is a common refrain).

I can name several no-reservation venues where it's fine to line up 45 minutes before opening and no one even mentions it, and you'll drop probably 4 times the dinero to eat there.  I ate here when Alice Waters was slurping for her second consecutive night here.  Think TU is somehow absorbing more than its fair share as the "is it worth it to dine here" punching bag.

Hell, I've waited 45+ minutes for some of the darling hamburgers in the area, and I don't recall anyone complaining about those places.  And I've waited 45+ minutes past my reservation time at restaurants that were strictly mediocre at best but still hit the wallet hard.  I've waited an hour+ past my CARRY-OUT reservation at our darling Thai joint in town . . . for some reason, only here at TU does wait time get regularly factored in.

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Just to be clear:  I am not complaining about the wait, and it speaks volumes about the loyalty of TU fans.  I simply prefer Daikaya, where the line is rarely that long.

A bit incredible to me that the legacy of Toki Underground won't be a young chef who really burst on the scene, the legacy will be this wait time (not trying to single out Marty L., this is a common refrain).

I can name several no-reservation venues where it's fine to line up 45 minutes before opening and no one even mentions it, and you'll drop probably 4 times the dinero to eat there.  I ate here when Alice Waters was slurping for her second consecutive night here.  Think TU is somehow absorbing more than its fair share as the "is it worth it to dine here" punching bag.

Hell, I've waited 45+ minutes for some of the darling hamburgers in the area, and I don't recall anyone complaining about those places.  And I've waited 45+ minutes past my reservation time at restaurants that were strictly mediocre at best but still hit the wallet hard.  I've waited an hour+ past my CARRY-OUT reservation at our darling Thai joint in town . . . for some reason, only here at TU does wait time get regularly factored in.

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I prefer Daikaya too, had it for lunch today, waited about 20 seconds to be seated. I think the pork is better at TU, though.

My main point stemmed from your comment that TU is not remotely worth a hour+ wait, which happens there for sure. Ive heard criticism of Little Serow for its flavors, I imagine some day a Rose's Luxery hater will emerge, but I have never heard griping about the waits at either place. But i hear it about TU all the time (not Marty L. here, but all the time). And TU is only a $20 visit to walk in the door, basically, compared to say $60.

Isnt that striking? Am I the only one who sees this? As Mugatu said, I feel like I'm taking crazy pills!

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I've dined at Toki 5 times over the past couple years. I've never waited more than 10 minutes before being seated.

1) they take reservations between 5pm-6pm

2) if you're able to get there at 5pm you can walk in and get a stool

Do I go there at 8pm on a Friday with 9 of my closest friends? Of course not. (It's also not a place to linger with friends). But the wait is not universally hours long. Just requires a little planning in advance, like any great restaurant.

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"About ninety-five percent of the ramen's ingredients will be locally sourced, including eggs, onions, chilies, and canned peaches or apples."

:blink:

I know that Toigo Orchards sells their own peaches and applesauce packed in jars; Twin Springs sells applesauce; other local chefs may be canning local fruit during the summer for use during the winter.

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I've dined at Toki 5 times over the past couple years. I've never waited more than 10 minutes before being seated.

1) they take reservations between 5pm-6pm

2) if you're able to get there at 5pm you can walk in and get a stool

Do I go there at 8pm on a Friday with 9 of my closest friends? Of course not. (It's also not a place to linger with friends). But the wait is not universally hours long. Just requires a little planning in advance, like any great restaurant.

Having tried to go at least a half-dozen times in the past year, I can tell you that the average wait at 7:30p on a Monday, for 2 people, is 1.5 hours.

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"About ninety-five percent of the ramen's ingredients will be locally sourced, including eggs, onions, chilies, and canned peaches or apples."

:blink:

If the canning part is the issue, perhaps this will explain things a bit for you:

http://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/spike-gjerde-and-his-woodberry-kitchen-team-taking-canning-to-new-heights/2013/08/30/17ffe9f0-0fe7-11e3-8cdd-bcdc09410972_story.html

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We ate at the Toki pop-up this past weekend.  I don't know who the chef was for the pop-up, it wasn't Mr. Burner-Yang, but he had a hilarious sense of humor, we really liked him.  Almost walking into Union Market you could smell the goodness of the noodle soup happening back there, and as we got closer, the addictive smell perfumed the air and changed our somewhat hungry notions into a desire to consume food immediately.  We had no idea what was being served, people just were walking up and walking away with stuff.  Asking a few people in front of us they said noodle soup and Chinese buns, sounded fine to us.  We asked what was in the soup- lemongrass, chilies, tilapia, poached egg, etc.  Sounded good.  We managed to grab seats right at the two tables and watched the chef making little bowls of steeping goodness.  The buns were doughy and fresh filled with a spiced barbecue filling that was a delicious mix of meat spices and just a little veg.  It had just enough spice to set off the sweetness of the sauce, it was wonderful.

Then came the soup.  As soon as it arrived I could smell how spicy it is.  At this point I should note, I love spicy food.  I cannot say exactly how or why this came about, but I really enjoy it.  My companions had varying degrees of spice acceptability.  My SIL probably draws the line at mildly spicy "thai" food from her local takeout I would put her at 1 pepper on the menu acceptability.  My other companion I would put at a two pepper.  I don't think either was prepared.  Of course it was only after we sat down that we heard it was a Spicy Laotian Fish Curry (I knew what this meant, but at this point we were sitting down and I knew I would be fine and they didn't seem to want to back down, so who was I to intervene...).  I had a couple sips of the broth, to which I coughed.  But oh it was good, it was spicy, but you could still taste all the flavors of the soup, it wasn't palate killing spice.  A few more bites and I had a progression of sneezes, but then my sinuses opened up and I digged in.  I loved the thin noodles in the soup, they made it fairly easy to eat.  The poached egg and lime eased some of the heat and gave this rich and almost unctious feeling to the dish.  The fish was firm, but soft to the spoon, not overcooked.  The cabbage was crunchy, but got softer as the dish cooked. The peanuts were a delightful crunch and added texture to the dish.  This dish had it all.  Spice and acid, a bit of sour, richness, crunch, it was good.  We downed at least three carafes of water on the table eating it, not that it was spicy, we just were really thirsty, yep that was it.  We lamented how greedily we had eaten our buns pre-soup.  I ate all my filing and maybe had a little broth left.  My companions tried to make the best dent they could.  My poor Sister In Law, the bravery she exerted in the face of sheer terror was astounding.  I hope I can ever get her to eat an Asian noodle soup again, it won't be able to be spicy, that's for sure.  I loved every moment of it.  It was a real experience.  Sitting there with friends, having interesting cuisines cooked right in front of you, laughing when any of us breathed in too much heat pre-bite.  Watching other people it was a real show.  As we left the chef laughed telling us it was $2 for soup, $13 for water.  This was a really great meal.  I haven't been to the real Toki, but it makes me want to go.  This is not the type of soup you think, man I want this tomorrow.  I don't even know if I could face it again tomorrow, but next week, I would maybe give it another go.

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I believe the chef's name is James.  Used to be at Lyon Hall of all places.  A couple weeks ago he was serving some killer duck noodle soup.  He's really turning out shockingly good stuff from that tiny booth.

Yes, he is turning out great food in that little spot.  I had the Bo Bang bowl today--grilled chicken and noodle with bean sprouts, mint, and other fresh herbs, peanuts and slices of pork loaf he had made.  He said that it was pork shoulder that he had rolled up in a cylinder and steamed.  He also said that he's making a Lao bowl next week, but I don't recall any specifics beyond the mention that it would probably include fish.

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It only took me five years, but took my maiden voyage at Toki last night. "Only" a 45 minute wait at a 6:30 on a Tuesday, but was gladly spent at the bar downstairs drinking a Port City Ways and Means.

The stars were the pork dumplings and the fried chicken buns. The buns in particular are addictive with enough spice to notice but not enough to overpower. As it was my first time I stuck with the Classic Ramen and a side of the homemade hot sauce. It was very good. I think in the future I'll order the double order of noodles, and I'm also more inclined to try the Kimchi. The waiter warned me the Kimchi was very spicy so I stayed away.

I don't ever get to H Street, but now I'm wishing I did.

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Despite living blocks away, I haven't dined in at Toki in quite some time.  I remedied this with lunch on Wednesday. (No wait, BTW.)  The ramen menu is the same as always, but there were quite a few specials that were irresistible.  I started with a bowl of ramps sautéed with chili and fish sauce, and topped with toasted rice powder.  For $5, this was quite literally an entire bunch of ramp greens lightly sauteed and served quite simply (see the photo).  Delicious, and a surprising value.

Next up was the special "Spring Vegetable Tsukemen."  This was a tangle of perfectly chewy ramen noodles served cold with lightly pickled (and crunchy) beets, mushrooms, carrots, chive flowers, and herbs with a side of a citrusy (yuzu?) dipping sauce.  Although I had gone in prepared for a gut full of ramen, this proved the be the perfect light Spring lunch I needed.

I've never had anything but great service at Toki, and lunch was no exception.  Followed up by a cup of cold-brew coffee across the street at Maketto (and a couple hours of work on the free Wifi), it was a picture perfect day on H St...one that I foresee more folks partaking in as the new apartment buildings go up along the corridor and the streetcar actually starts carrying passengers.

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Erik Bruner-Yang to step down from Toki Underground with Johnathon Uribe taking over. 

For what it's worth, I did the interview with the new chef if you want to read it - gives a pretty good overview of his outlook on running a kitchen. Jon seems like a great guy for the job; he's known Erik for a while, he has some great chops in the kitchen, and he's obviously clearly passionate about what he's doing at Toki. Also has some really cool ideas to help out some of the non-native American BOH staff.

Story here.

Cheers!

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Jonny Tacos

This reminded me - he and Luke Feltz (of Boundary Road, and now Jon's new roommate) are doing another popup at Boundary on the night of Sunday, April 24th. I don't want to spoil anything, so I'll just say it'll be "tacos" and there are some seriously cool ingredients and cooking techniques being tossed around by these guys.

Cheers!

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I'll preface everything I say with, I don't know how the restaurant industry works regarding chefs, investors, business partners, etc. 

But isn't Eric Bruner Yang the brains behind Toki?  Didn't he create the place and the dishes served there?

This feels like the saga of musicians of old who wrote all the songs, but some producer or record company owned everything and made all the money.  Or even more like John Fogertty who was somehow legally banned from playing his own songs! 

I also thought you couldn't copyright a recipe.  Don't know if that's actually true, but even if you could copyright one, couldn't the chef tweak it in some slight way to make it "different"?

Also, I don't know what his arrest for assault has to do with this.  I don't condone assault and I don't know the details, but he's not in jail.  Presumably he's served his sentence (if he was in fact found guilty). 

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Apparently there's a non-compete provision in the Toki agreement.  If I were to invest in a restaurant, I would want to make sure the service partner can't open another restaurant that would directly compete with the restaurant I invested in.  In this case, Toki sells ramen and baos, so the investors want to make sure Bruner-Yang does not open another bao and ramen restaurant in the non-compete territory (in this case, Bruner-Yang wants to start doing ramen and baos at Maketto, which is just down the street from Toki).  What I gathered is that Bruner-Yang is saying he isn't subject to the non-compete because he didn't sign the Toki agreement in his individual capacity (i.e., he formed another entity, and it was that entity that signed the Toki agreement and subject to the non-compete).  Whether Bruner-Yang is technically right or wrong, I do not know, but he's obviously violating the spirit of the Toki agreement.  I have an unflattering opinion of Bruner-Yang, because he seems to be screwing over his business partners and his prior assault charge.

 

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I look at it the other way.  It seems like the artist (chef) if getting screwed over by a bunch of business types.  Back to my musician analogy....I feel like they're telling him that since you used an G chord, A minor, chord and D chord when you were under contract for a certain record company, you can no longer use those chords in future songs. 

What if he worked in a steak house?  Could they tell him he can no longer serve meat in future restaurants? 

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1 minute ago, Bart said:

I look at it the other way.  It seems like the artist (chef) if getting screwed over by a bunch of business types.  Back to my musician analogy....I feel like they're telling him that since you used an G chord, A minor, chord and D chord when you were under contract for a certain record company, you can no longer use those chords in future songs. 

What if he worked in a steak house?  Could they tell him he can no longer serve meat in future restaurants? 

I agree with Eric.  A musician can choose to not have representation to publish on their own, they often choose not to because they want the benefits of a recording studio behind them and more secure income I presume (never been a musician). If they take that benefit then they have to follow that contract until it expires.

He got the benefit of having the money to be able to open a restaurant and hone his craft that he would not have gotten without investor money.  He likely wouldn't be the important chef he is today without that benefit.  If he worked in a steak house and developed a skill in a manner of serving steak that was unique they could say he would not use that technique, but it couldn't be as general as meat.  This is specific he isn't saying he wants to serve Mexican food, he wants to serve the same items as his former restaurant, he is not asking to serve a different type of cuisine.  Non-competes have to be limited in area, scope and time, BUT this looks like a legitimate violation of area, scope and time.  So I kind of understand your arguments, but I think they are missing the key legal points of a valid non-compete.

You may say that you don't like the idea of non-competes, but there are two sides to the benefit gotten, this is one of the ones the investors get.  He negotiated the contract and agreed to the benefits he got, so he is subject to the benefits the investors got while negotiating.

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But isn't Ramen a HUGE category of cuisine.  What little I know about it came from watching TV, but I remember David Chang or Bourdain or maybe both talking about how there were hundreds of ramen shops per town and each one was slightly different from the next.  And different regions in a country had still more differences. And different countries had more differences.

Isn't saying you can't make ramen anymore akin to saying you can't make soup or seafood or Korean food anymore?

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2 minutes ago, Bart said:

But isn't Ramen a HUGE category of cuisine.  What little I know about it came from watching TV, but I remember David Chang or Bourdain or maybe both talking about how there were hundreds of ramen shops per town and each one was slightly different from the next.  And different regions in a country had still more differences. And different countries had more differences.

Isn't saying you can't make ramen anymore akin to saying you can't make soup or seafood or Korean food anymore?

No.

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51 minutes ago, Bart said:

What if he worked in a steak house?  Could they tell him he can no longer serve meat in future restaurants? 

If he signed an agreement saying he couldn't serve meat in future establishments, then yes.

Obviously, unless someone here has actually read the legal documents, the speculation is just that.

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Regardless of legal issues and original chef leaving, this place is still super busy/popular. Tried to go last night, thinking since it was freezing cold and that time of the year, it may be safe. Got there at 6:50p and BAM was hit with a two hour wait. Needless to say, ain't nobody got time for that on a school night so we went to Haikan, and had a lovely, but sort of generic "good ramen not great ramen" experience. That was "only" a 25 minute wait that turned into 45+. So, cold days = Ramen for this city, even in the nether region between Christmas and NY.

 

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