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Modena (Formerly Bibiana), Downtown in the old Luigino Space - Chef John Melfi and Breads from Mark Furstenberg


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Had a very good dinner at Bibiana, and we'll be going back, though there was a service hiccup with the entrees.  There are many other things on that menu I want to try.

I asked what non-alcoholic cocktails they had, and the waiter said the bartender could make just about anything if I told him what I liked: fruity, more sweet or less sweet, herbaceous, etc.  I said any fruit but grapefruit, less sweet, and herbaceous (thinking that meant maybe mint or basil, I should've asked).  He brought me something that was cherry, elderflower, and something else I forget, and it was too bitter for me but my husband liked it.  I wasn't sure whether to say anything (I don't generally send back a drink or say something negative when I get one specially made if I think it's mediocre, but this was the first one I've gotten that I wasn't sure I could drink - clearly it was drinkable b/c my husband enjoyed it, but I couldn't). But the waiter asked how I liked it and I said I found it rather bitter, though the overall flavor was good.  He said the cherry was cherry bitters, and they could make it without that, and my husband kept the original one so that worked out.  Without the bitters, I liked it a lot.  And I always am very happy when a restaurant will make mocktails.

I will have to order the Funghi (Roasted Mushroom Salad, Fried Bread, Fontina, Porcini) every single time.  It had matsutake, hen-of-the-woods, beech, and other mushrooms, and incredible depth of flavor.  There was some puree which may have been the porcini mushrooms, and crisp rich fried crostini.  As a mushroom-lover, this was heaven.

My husband had the Burrata appetizer, which unlike the online menu (tomatoes and basil) came with shavings of apples and sunchokes, walnuts and something else I can't recall that tasted of fall.  Tremendous, oozy, creamy burrata.  The house bread was very good (the crusty loaf; the foccacia was a little odder, perhaps it was wheat, something tasted unusual but it wasn't my favorite) for sopping up the extra. I didn't get to taste anything but the cheese as there wasn't a ton of it and my husband wanted the vegetables/fruit.

Then we had quite a long wait between that course and the entree.  We didn't say anything to the waiter -- the apps were filling so we weren't impatient from hunger, and we were out for an occasion and not headed anywhere after -- but it really was unusually long.  We sat at 7 p.m. and had the apps at maybe 7:15 or 7:20, and the entree didn't come till nearly 8.  It would've been good if they'd refilled our bread basket during that time, and would have asked after a while but didn't want to fill up on the bread.  The waiter didn't check in with us during the wait or say why it was taking so long, though when someone else delivered our entrees, that person apologized for the delay.

Entrees:  I had a half portion of the Nero de Seppia (Black Spaghetti, Maryland Jumbo Lump Crab, 'Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino').  Quite tasty, but the crab was not as delicious as I would've liked.  I had asked and it was definitely fresh, not canned, and there was plenty of it, but it was a little overwhelmed by the spicy flavors and it just may be more delicately flavored this time of year.  The spaghetti was nice and firm and rich with squid ink - the dish tasted of the sea, which I liked.  But next time I will try something else, and I was sorry I hadn't ordered the ricotta canneloni, or just two more apps since I wanted the artichokes.  The half portion was excellent, just the right amount, neither skimpy nor overflowing.

My husband had Merluzzo (cod), which is not on their online menu (needs updating since summer), which came with batons of salsify and salsify puree, and other things I don't recall.  I tried the salsify, which was delicious - neither of us have had it before - described to us as a mild turnip-like root vegetable.  Very flavorful and tender from roasting, with a great sauce.  Husband said the fish was also very good.

For dessert, my husband had Crespelle (Crepes Rolled with Chocolate Cream Inside a Crisp Chocolate Tuile, with I think chocolate gelato).  Looked wonderful and he said it was.  I had to get a non-chocolate, non-alcohol dessert and the options were small, I went with a Bonet (traditional Italian dessert I've never had) of roasted hubbard squash, with coffee sauce, hazelnuts, little crispy meringue-like cookies, and I asked for it without the bitter chocolate (which would've been a candied piece on top) and with vanilla-pepper gelato instead of the stout gelato.  Hard to judge the dish therefore since it was different from how they'd usually send it out, and I think the chocolate would've complemented the squash bonet, which was interesting on its own but much better when eaten with the meringues or hazelnuts or gelato for a touch of sweetness to balance it (since the bonet was more savory).  Still, I ate all of it, so clearly it was good.

I would go back for the Funghi alone - one of my favorite things I've eaten lately - but the burrata and the merluzzo were both so tasty, and my entree and dessert were good though not excellent, that we will definitely be returning.

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Apparently no one eats here other than tourists...except when I decide to binge on pasta.  

Started with Carciofi Alla Romana - now breaded and then deep fried.  Not very Roman unless you mean Rome, Georgia, but tasty nonetheless.

So you can pick 2 pastas for $24, half portion of each.  I ordered 4 pastas.

Two seafood pastas were spaghetti with lobster Bolognese and linguine with clam sauce.  The lobster chunks were perfectly cooked.  The clams were Mahogany, which are much bigger than Little Neck and don't taste quite as good to me.  

Two meatier pastas were squid ink pasta with tripe ragu and orecchiette with nduja and broccoli rabe.  The tripe pasta was my favorite of the night.  The tripe was like a sponge that soaked up the sauce, soft but with a little bit of chew.  The orrecchiette with njuda strangely lacked any distinct flavor.  No bitterness from the broccoli rabe and no spiciness form eduja.

All of the pasta were firm and generally cooked properly.  I think this place deserves a little more attention.  Their pastas are as good as Osteria Morini, RPM, Masseria, etc.

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We had a group of 12 in one of their private rooms this week, and had a very nice meal. The polpette starter was two meatballs on top of a rich mascarpone polenta. The lemon cavatelli was not what I expected, but was very nice, a perfectly cooked pasta with a roasted tomato sauce (maybe?) with chanterelles and cherry tomatoes. It was really delicious. The branzino was a crisp-skinned delight. A nice chunk of tiramisu finished things off appropriately. 

Service was good, and we would happily return. Definitely a promising start for this rebranded spot.

Edited by seanvtaylor
misspelling on 'branzino'
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I had lunch here earlier this week and quite enjoyed it. It is extremely similar to Bibiana, or at least seemed that way. They have a three course business lunch (same as Bibiana) which is a good deal, and which is what everyone at our table went with. My grilled squid was delicious, as were the items from the antipasti bar. 

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