Vidalia, Restaurateur Jeff Buben's 20th and M Streets Southern-American Downtown on 20th and M Street - Chef Jayro Cruz Replaces Hamilton Johnson - Closed

[Jacques Gastreaux]

This looks particularly aggressive:

First Course

Sea Urchin Panna Cotta

with cold poached chesapeake oyster, albino adriatic

caviar, sea beans annd albariño-meyer lemon emulsion

2004 Lusco Do Mino, Albariño, Rias Baixas

I have no idea what adriatic cavier (let alone the "albino" variety) or "sea beans" are. The sea urchin panna cotta sounds particularly exotic.

Will the menu stay the same for each Friday, or will it change for each wine meal? And what are the price points?

[zoramargolis]

I have no idea what adriatic cavier (let alone the "albino" variety) or "sea beans" are.

Sea beans are a small, succulent-type of sea weed which are crunchy and very salty. They sometimes are available for sale at Whole Foods for about $10 a pound. A few years ago, I found them at a Giant. Having never seen them before, I decided to buy some (after I tasted one). The produce manager and cashier couldn't figure out what they were or how much to charge, so they rang it up as if they were green beans, which were on sale that day for $.99 a pound. I might buy them again for a dollar a pound, but they taste mostly of salt and are an exotic little crunch. Not worth the big bucks.

I'll take a shot at Adriatic caviar--pale, salted roe from a variety of fish found in the Adriatic sea?

[beezy]

Hi everyone -

I'm taking out the husband for his birthday tonight at Vidalia. Anyone got favorites from the menu that they would like to endorse?

thanks!

[Pat]

Hi everyone -

I'm taking out the husband for his birthday tonight at Vidalia. Anyone got favorites from the menu that they would like to endorse?

thanks!

I just looked at the online fall (sample) menu and didn't see the Pork 'n Beans . If it's available, get it! I also like the goat cheese-truffle mac and cheese.

[jm chen]

Lemon chess pie!

[grover]

Escoffier and I had a great, wonderful, excellent and exclusive dinner last Saturday (Oct. 28th).

We had Brenna as our server. She did a great job as usual.

The menu is as follows:

Amuse Bouche

• Cape cod oyster, cucumber and caviar
  
• Trout parfait and trout roe
  
• Venison tartare
  

Raw

Diver scallop, navel orange, chili, cilantro

Liver

Foie gras, apple, turnip, elixir

Soup

Onion, duck, glass

Shellfish

Lobster, vanilla, pumpkin

Field

Veal2

Cheese

From our cart

Dessert

Chocolate (chocolate and caramel ice cream)

Mignardise

The food was so good that I wish I had another stomach to digest the whole thing.

For me it is hard to find a great onion soup at any French restaurant but R.J.'s soup ruled.

After the shellfish course, I couldn't eat any more. I brought two doggie bags home and then ate them at work.

We tried to see R.J. when we left but the kitchen was way too busy to interrupt him.

R.J., you are the best! Thanks a lot!

[Escoffier]

There's not too much I can add to the above except to say that dinner was totally fantastic. I don't know who does the wine pairings but they also deserve plaudits for the excellent work. I had been planning on about 5 courses max until R.J. called and asked if we'd like to have seven. How can you refuse a request like that? I also wish I had a way to have eaten more. Every course was way to good to simply taste and then push aside. I'm afraid that I cleaned every plate (call me a glutton, it's true this time). As hard as it might be to believe, I actually had to pass on the migardise (which I confess I ate Monday evening before Grover got home). All in all, a wonderful experience. Vidalia is becoming a serious destination restaurant and R.J. and the staff deserver all the credit.

[thegourmetpig]

Tried Vidalia last night for the first time. All I have to say is that the molasses-cured hamachi appetizer was out of this world, and defined just how complex some their cooking can be. Read the write-up on www.thegourmetpig.com .

[pidgey]

Since we were early for our reservation last night, my husband and I decided to have a glass of wine at the bar and sample the complimentary hors d'ourves. Wow, those deviled eggs were so delicious, and my husband, who hates eggs, really wanted more. They also had a red pepper dip with crackers (I can't eat red peppers, but my husband told me they were quite good), and a little bit of salami. So delicious, and we were tempted by the small plates at the bar, which included chicken fried steak. However since we had a reservation, we had to pass up those plates.

Dinner was excellent. A little Reserva Brut to start, with our heirloom potatoes and pork belly. The Carolina Trout with deviled crab stuffing made me swoon; I would highly recommend it. Husband is thouroghly unadventurous and went for the shrimp and grits. We finished off with (what else?) lemon chess pie and pecan pie.

All in all, a wonderful experience, and I can't wait to take my friends to the bar for some of those small plates!

Edited to fix my spelling!

[jparrott]

Well, at the risk of not being able to drink them every time I go to Vidalia, here are a couple of gems from the list:

Edmunds St. John "blonk" (Marsanne/Roussanne/Viognier) 2002 $34: Classic white Rhone-style, with plenty of wax/honeysuckle aromas alongside ripe but not-too-ripe fruit. Seriously nummy and in no danger of decline.

Edmunds St. John "Rocks and Gravel" (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre) 2003 $44: This is what Chateauneuf used to taste like--pepper, leather, red fruit, firm fruit tannins. This shows exactly no wood influence (Steve uses exclusively older, larger barrels) and is as elegant as they come.

[jparrott]

Eeeeeeeeeeexcellent dinner here last night, and another gem unearthed from Mr. Dougie Mohr's list. 2003 Schloss Gobelsburger St. Laurent, one of the 15 or so (!) Austrian red selections on the list. Not that cheap at $60, but a mouthful of aromatic red fruit and lacy minerality. Very Burgundian, very in need of air, very yummy. Having this wine alongside RJ Cooper's cured sturgeon taught me more about the whole Sushi-Ko red-Burgundy-with-raw-fish thing than Sushi-Ko ever has.

Oh, and there a massive plate of shoat on the menu. And it's dynamite.

[And a well-placed source tells me there may be some 6 puttonyos Tokaji vinegar gurgling away in the kitchen.]

[jpschust]

Besides the wonderful food at Vidalia, make sure to have the mint juleps there. I am known to frequent the bar even without dinner to get one. Positively the best in town.

[ol_ironstomach]

The red-tail venison loin is also superb: tender (well-aged?) and not as gamey as its North American cousin, and beautifully presented with weighty streaks of sauce. But first you'd have to convince yourself to pass up that terrific Amish shoat. Both were damn good.

One thing I learned last night is not to get too hung up in the details of the menu descriptions, unless you have an allergy to one or more of the ingredients. At a lesser restaurant, lengthy descriptions might be an indicator of pointless (and often counterproductive) conceit. Not here; RJ achieves a degree of integration that belies your expectations from some of the more fanciful-sounding combos...focus on the main component, then trust the kitchen to make it shine.

I've never had wine at Sushi-Ko, so the sturgeon/Schloss Gobelsburg experience was fascinating. The fish was beautiful but the first bite was a bit ho-hum to me, until I inhaled from the goblet and wham, the retro-nasal sensation went berzerk. This was even before the wine fully opened-up. The Gobelsburger St. Laurent (big surprise, a Theise find) also worked great with the cavatelli with sweetbreads, as well as the venison.

And now, I'll be saving my pennies for the next few days to get back under budget

[jparrott]

One thing I learned last night is not to get too hung up in the details of the menu descriptions, unless you have an allergy to one or more of the ingredients. At a lesser restaurant, lengthy descriptions might be an indicator of pointless (and often counterproductive) conceit. Not here; RJ achieves a degree of integration that belies your expectations from some of the more fanciful-sounding combos...focus on the main component, then trust the kitchen to make it shine.

Well said. In particular, I'm not a fan at all of the menu description of the shoat (which reads like a wine-pairing nightmare). But damn, it's spot on super-duper young-Burgundy (or Burgundy-poser) food!

[Lydia R]

Since we were early for our reservation last night, my husband and I decided to have a glass of wine at the bar and sample the complimentary hors d'ourves. Wow, those deviled eggs were so delicious, and my husband, who hates eggs, really wanted more. They also had a red pepper dip with crackers (I can't eat red peppers, but my husband told me they were quite good), and a little bit of salami.

Are these complimentary hors d'oeuvres the same free bar snacks mentioned in the Washingtonian best bites blog? Would this be a good HH place (e.g., what's parking like)?

Edit for spelling and taking a "5-yard HH planning before lunch" penalty

[DonRocks]

Are these complimentary hors d'ouves the same free bar snacks mentioned in the Washingtonian best bites blog? Would this be a good HH place (e.g., what's parking like)?

The two seats directly in front of where the chef makes these complimentary hors d'oeuvres have become one of the hottest, most coveted spots in town.

They're calling it Mini Cooper, and yes, it's easy to park.

Cheers,

Rocks.

[Saycheese]

I had lunch at Vidalia today. The menu seemed to offer a lot of choices, although several items had a supplemental charge. Nevertheless, I stuck with the RW options and had the winter market salad, vegetable risotto and a fabulous chocolate dessert. My companion had the mushroom soup, pork charcutiere selection and a pecan tart for dessert. Everything was quite good and the service was attentive as well. We were in and out in about an hour, but did not feel rushed at all. The portions were ample -- I felt quite full and thought the meal, with a small glass of wine -- was an excellent value. I had generally avoided RW because of the negative comments, but we had a very good experience.

[cloax]

Went to Vidalia with 3 friends.

- Due to unforeseen circumstance one of the four was going to be late. 20 minutes late at the least, which was imparted 10 minutes before reservation. The host, and then our waitress could not have been more understandable. I'm not a newbie, so I offered for us to sit at the bar and then perhaps eat there, etc.. and was surprised as we were promptly ushered to our four top. We were allowed to leisurely order a glass of wine and await our late compatriot. Class act.

- Apps were all delicious and well received. I had the warm frisee salad, which was tasteful and pleasantly light enough with the ham to allow it to set a nice tone to the opening salvo. Tasting of the rabbit sausage and yellowfoot mushroom risotto my friend ordered resulted in a sensory override. The risotto was out of this world. If served on it's own, it would warrant an entree. Two other friends reported happiness with their rabbit sausage and the winter market salad.

- 2 friends entertained the roast chicken with dumplings, which to tastings, poking, and most importantly late and blatant proddings from all four of us were delicious. Juicy, succulent, you know the rest. I, as well as my lackadaisical other friend both had the pork charcutiere. I found the "smoked collar" to be the most intriguing piece of meat. Both in the variety of consistency and the disparity of taste attributed to each facet of it. The loin was excellent, mildy seasoned, and unfortunately was over-shadowed by the sauerkraut and pickled brine sauce. The surry sausage was like our shadow government representatives: there for show, but lacking in real expressive power.

- Desserts ( of which I'm not a fan so excuse the lack of expressiveness ) were:

2x black out cake which was mediocre at best.

1x Warm Apple and Raisin Crisp which was the table favorite. Perfectly prepared with the grapes retaining a nice firm texture.

1x Lady Apple and Sweet Onion "Tatin" which was the 2nd favorite, and, including onion, our table longshot. Boy were we glad to be proven wrong. Seriously. Try it.

- Wine:

I had two delicious glasses of the riesling by the glass. As a rule, started at Bouley in NYC, I only entertain riesling's if they're "trocken." Well, whatever the glass is on their by the glass menu is absolutely fantastic. Friends tried the grenache, which was equally delicious, the red blend which reminded us of a nera d'avolo but wasn't, and the italian at the top of the red by the glass list ( sorry that I can't recall ).

Point of note is that Vidalia is graciously serving the 20 under 7 by 7 during all of restaurant week, so don't be afraid to experiment.

All in all, an enjoyed experience all around.

Best,

Joe

(sorry if this was long winded )

[jparrott]

1x Lady Apple and Sweet Onion "Tatin" which was the 2nd favorite, and, including onion, our table longshot. Boy were we glad to be proven wrong. Seriously. Try it.

Oh yeah. This was one of my favorite desserts of last year. Perfect with geeky, funky dessert wines.

[mame11]

Yesterday I had a perfect meal at Vidalia. In fact it topped non-RW meals I have had at the restaurant.

I had:

Winter Vegetable Salad: a kitchen sink of a salad with winter root vegetables, cranberries, walnuts and some fennel too

the Duck (upcharge of $8): the glaze was divine, and if I recall, it was soda based. (I am not a fan of rare Duck and a bit of the duck was too rare for me... but it was still good)

Apple and Raisin crisp

My friend had:

Mushroom soup

the steak (upcharge of $8): it looked really really good, served with a puree of spinach and loads of mushrooms and potatoes

the chocolate dessert

What impressed me, in addition to the quality of the food, was that we each built perfectly balanced meals that tied together.

[treznor]

I went to Vidalia on Monday this RW. We'd been to Vidalia in the past and neither of us thought it was quite as good as when it's not during RW, but we both still thought it quite good (and the mac and cheese friggin' ridiculously gooey and creamy cheesy goodness). Granted we were taking a little bit longer than normal to order and the server was pushing us along a bit, but other than that I didn't notice anything at all that was wrong service-wise. I know some people fault them for offering dishes at an upcharge but personally I like to see it. They have a good selection of dishes with no upcharge and they include a couple more with an upcharge so people can try them if they'd like. What I do not like to see is restaurants that only have 1 or 2 choices that don't have an upcharge, but I believe Vidalia probably had 4-5 apps and 5-6 entrees without an upcharge.

[Pat]

I've really got to start paying better attention to what I order when I go out, or take notes . We went to Vidalia last night with an old friend of my husband and her son. The service was quite good and our server was patient about our camping and schmoozing after the meal. (He hadn't seen this friend in several years.) The food was wonderful, and I was so excited about the pork and beans being back on the menu that I didn't pay close attention to the other descriptions . (The pork and beans, for the record, was sublime.)

We got one market salad, two chicken noodle soups (which my husband said was not as good as the pork and beans he grabbed from me--it looked good to me, though), and the pork and beans. For mains, one person got fish (flounder, I believe) that she quite enjoyed, and the rest of us got the beef dish that I can't remember the cut of or anything . It was done at least 2 ways, as there was a phyllo round that had oxtail and something else in it. There were also greens with it that I liked. The steak was tender and cooked nicely medium rare. I got a side of wild mushrooms and grits, which I totally loved, and my husband got the truffled mac and cheese, which he polished off in short order. We were too full for dessert, but the out-of-town visitors got the apple-onion tatin and pecan pie, both of which went over well.

The only service issue was that the side dishes were put on the wrong (opposite) sides of the table. When I touched the dish the mac and cheese came in to pick it up and hand it to my husband, it was so hot my fingers got burned. Ouch. Not a huge issue, but I kept compulsively holding my thumb against the water glass to try to counteract the burn, which I'm sure seemed weird to anyone who was watchiing. Dishes are hot when they come from the kitchen. Yes

Oh, and I loved the bread, especially the bread that has onions on top.

[baczkowski]

Oh, and I loved the bread, especially the bread that has onions on top.

Not food related but your post reminded me of telling my table at the Gerard dinner my Vidalia story.

Two years ago we went to Vidalia for my future wife's birthday. For the last two weeks I was trying to get my future father-in-law alone--out of Alison's earshot--so I could ask him for permission to marry his daughter. I was running out of time because in five days we were headed to San Francisco for a conference and the spot of my secret proposal: Alison's best friend, who lives in San Francisco, and I had conspired to plan a romantic proposal involving the Japanese Tea Garden of Golden Gate Park, a room at the Ritz Carleton, and dinner at Masa's. The opportunity to isolate her dad seemed to present itself during our dinner at Vidalia when my future mother-in-law said she had a virus or spyware on her computer that she couldn't get rid of. I suggested a couple things I might be able to try and offered to come over the house the next day to solve their computer issue and my proposal problem.

But dad gives me the Heisman!

"No, no, I 'll try to fix it first," he demurs.

Damn pride.

So I'm running out of time and options as I struggle to eat my oyster appetizer when her dad excuses himself to the bathroom.

Yeah, I was that desperate.

And so ensues the wierdest take on the old-fashioned custom of getting your future father-in-law's permission to marry his daughter.

I follow him into the bathroom, fake pee, "finish" before him, and started washing my hands. No sooner had he finished zipping did I say, "I know this is an odd time and place to ask this but......Your daughter makes me the happiest I've ever been and I want to spend the rest of my life with her. Next week I've planned to surprise Alison by proposing, but first I would like to ask for your permission."

Shaking off the water from his hands into the sink, he looks up dazed and replies, "You're right, this IS a wierd place." He grabs a towel, dries his hand, and then reaches for mine, and says, "I'd be proud to have you as a son. Welcome to the family."

We walked back to the table smiling with his hand on my shoulder. We sat down and Alison was telling her mom a story. Her dad couldn't stop smiling as he looked at her. For seemingly no reason to her in the middle of the story, he reaches out, grabs her hand, and pats it twice as he gazed with pride at his grown daughter. Alison just laughed and said, "OK," and continued her story. That prideful look and tender touch between a father and daughter made that moment the most precious secret I've ever kept.

[synaesthesia]

That prideful look and tender touch between a father and daughter made that moment the most precious secret I've ever kept.

It was a great story last night, but written out today, it's an even better story.

[Joe H]

From October 11th:

There is a great deal of excellence and effort in the D. C. area that just hasn't been touched on.

It was encouraging to see Tom give both Vidalia and Obelisk three stars. Both restaurants are excellent and rate the kind of attention they received on several boards three or four years ago. Obelisk is a quiet, personal restaurant well suited to a special evening. At its best, as in Italy, it presents exemplery ingredients simply and deliciously. It is reassuring to know that its chef-from its heights in the late 90's-is back. At one time Playboy called this one of Ameica's 50 best restaurants. He was the chef when this was published.

We had dinner last night at Vidalia. As I noted 18 months ago this is one of several absolutely outstanding restaurants in the D. C. area that are rarely mentioned on this board. It is a sophisticated, serious, downtown restaurant that is one of our best. For those on this board who are allocating their meals for the next several months, this should be one.

Hopefully, they will still have the special peanut butter dessert, the baked oysters, the rabbit sausage and the wild rockfish main course.

I should also mention that they have one of the best wine lists in the United States with an enormous number of choices in the mid two digit range. Dress up. It is a serious restaurant worth the effort.

[FunnyJohn]

Joe is right. Vidalia is one of the best restaurants in DC, inasmuch as it consistently delivers good service, a well thought-out, outstandingly prepared menu and a dynamite wine list with affordable options. I took my daugher there for lunch a few weeks ago, during her spring break ( to let her know that there are fine dining options other than Restaurant Eve in the DC Metro area). She devoured everything but the fois gras terrine app which she found odd in consistency -- not used to the terrine concept, likes her fois gras served en piece. Anyway, Vidalia failed to dissappoint on this occasion. Strange that there is not more buzz, but maybe this is a good thing

[Capital Icebox]

...rarely mentioned on this board.

There are a large number of well-done posts on Vidalia here, on average a few a month. While I agree that this place is the bees knees I disagree that it is rarely mentioned. Use that scrolly thing on your mouse.

Here is something that has been overlooked -- the $20 3-course lunch at Vidalia, which I hope is still around. It is like having restaurant week all year long, and even though the portion sizes are smaller than they are if you order a la carte, it is still more than enough food. It is priced the same as Eve's lickety split (factoring in the extra course) and certainly on the same level. Add in the option of 1/2-pours of wine and I think you are looking at one of the best dining deals in the city.

[FunnyJohn]

There are a large number of well-done posts on Vidalia here, on average a few a month. While I agree that this place is the bees knees I disagree that it is rarely mentioned. Use that scrolly thing on your mouse.

Here is something that has been overlooked -- the $20 3-course lunch at Vidalia, which I hope is still around. It is like having restaurant week all year long, and even though the portion sizes are smaller than they are if you order a la carte, it is still more than enough food. It is priced the same as Eve's lickety split (factoring in the extra course) and certainly on the same level. Add in the option of 1/2-pours of wine and I think you are looking at one of the best dining deals in the city.

The lunch tasting menu (not sure what the price point is) is still being offered -- at least as of the beginning of March when I was there.

[RaisaB]

There are a large number of well-done posts on Vidalia here, on average a few a month. While I agree that this place is the bees knees I disagree that it is rarely mentioned. Use that scrolly thing on your mouse.

I think what Joe meant is that some restaurants are disproportionately posted about on the forum in contrast to this one and his perceived quality level. This has two pages of comments, some have seventeen pages of comments.

I have not been to Vidalia's in years. They had just finished remodeling when I went. I gues my meal was not that memorable as I haven't been back. Again, this was years ago, tastes change. So it is probably time for another visit. Is it the same chef as when they first finished thier remodel? Or was it Buben back then?

[Joe H]

I think what Joe meant is that some restaurants are disproportionately posted about on the forum in contrast to this one and his perceived quality level. This has two pages of comments, some have seventeen pages of comments.

I have not been to Vidalia's in years. They had just finished remodeling when I went. I gues my meal was not that memorable as I haven't been back. Again, this was years ago, tastes change. So it is probably time for another visit. Is it the same chef as when they first finished thier remodel? Or was it Buben back then?

Thanks, Raisa. That was exactly what I meant. I believe RJ Cooper started right around the time of their remodelling. For me Vidalia today is better than it was four or five years ago before the remodelling. Perhaps most striking is not just the food but the transformation of the restaurant itself. It is a "sharp," sophisticated, comfortable room that while different has some of the feeling of Citronelle or CityZen, i.e. "big city, important restaurant." It's style on the plate is NOT either of their's, nor does it reach quite as high. Still, it is excellent and makes a very real statement. I'd probably put it in league with Charleston overall which in many ways is similar.

The old Vidalia had nothing in common with this.

[wineitup]

Thanks, Raisa. That was exactly what I meant. I believe RJ Cooper started right around the time of their remodelling. For me Vidalia today is better than it was four or five years ago before the remodelling. Perhaps most striking is not just the food but the transformation of the restaurant itself. It is a "sharp," sophisticated, comfortable room that while different has some of the feeling of Citronelle or CityZen, i.e. "big city, important restaurant." It's style on the plate is NOT either of their's, nor does it reach quite as high. Still, it is excellent and makes a very real statement. I'd probably put it in league with Charleston overall which in many ways is similar.

The old Vidalia had nothing in common with this.

I have to agree with Joe. We went last week and had a great meal. I had not been in several years and was quite impressd with it's new look and feel. The food is great and the wine list is impressive.

[mdt]

Thanks, Raisa. That was exactly what I meant. I believe RJ Cooper started right around the time of their remodelling. For me Vidalia today is better than it was four or five years ago before the remodelling. Perhaps most striking is not just the food but the transformation of the restaurant itself. It is a "sharp," sophisticated, comfortable room that while different has some of the feeling of Citronelle or CityZen, i.e. "big city, important restaurant." It's style on the plate is NOT either of their's, nor does it reach quite as high. Still, it is excellent and makes a very real statement. I'd probably put it in league with Charleston overall which in many ways is similar.

The old Vidalia had nothing in common with this.

Not sure when the renovation happened, but didn't RJ start at some point in 2004?

[RJ Cooper]

Not sure when the renovation happened, but didn't RJ start at some point in 2004?

Okay, I'll set the record straight..........I started in October of 2004.......1 week after Pete's departure.

The team at Vidalia humbbly thanks all for the commnets whether good or bad.

We also thank all the "ROCKHEADS" for there support.

RJ

[jparrott]

Rabbit sausage. Shad roe. Ethereal (if that is possible) cured pork jowl. The wine list is even bigger and cooler than ever. Pecan pie. And couches!

[alan7147]

Is the menu on their webiste outdated? It looks to be exactly the same as when we were there 6-7 months ago.

[pizza man]

I am kicking myself for never having been to this restaurant.

Now that my buddy John is working there I have no excuse.

I will be making reservations tomorrow...(is there a dress code?)

I guess all the time working for Hartmut Handke and knowin he and Buben were pals has scared me away.

No more, I'm going..

[jpschust]

Is the menu on their webiste outdated? It looks to be exactly the same as when we were there 6-7 months ago.

It's pretty close to what it is- for the next few days (we ate there last night- it's one of the few very fine dining places open on Sundays). Word is that on Tuesday or so the menu is changing over to a spring menu.

We had the Venison Tartar, Baked Oysters, Lamb Saddle and Monkfish finished with the Peanut Butter Cup dessert. All were excellent in their own right, thought hte Venison Tartar and Lamb Saddle stand out the most for me. Drank an '05 Patricia Green Cellars Pinot that was outstanding as well.

[bettyjoan]

I had my fourth meal at Vidalia last Friday night, and it was incredible. I wrote a lengthy review here, but the highlights:

Apps--cured pork jowl and shad roe (amazing), rabbit sausage.

Entrees--seared tuna with morels, rabbit with veal sweetbread stuffing.

Desserts--Vidalia onion and pineapple upside down cake, pecan pie (never disappoints).

Lunch or dinner, Restaurant Week or not, Vidalia never ceases to amaze me with its quality and finesse--from start to finish, from wine to service to food, I always leave impressed. Well done!

Anyone have any special occasions to celebrate? I'm ready to go back!

[edenman]

Sign outside says they will be closed until dinner tomorrow night due to some issue with a water main.

[DonRocks]

Has any other restaurant besides French Laundry won a double James Beard Best Chef award?

Congratulations, RJ! Can Doug Mohr be far behind?

Cheers!

Rocks.

[Joe H]

http://www.usatoday.com/life/2007-05-07-beard-awards_N.htm

According to USA Today it was a TIE (!) between Ruta (Palena) and Cooper (Vidalia) for best chef Mid Atlantic! Also, kudos, applause and outright righteous victory for Mark Slater and Michel Richard. AND Washington, D. C. Citronelle won TWO national awards. Whoa!!!!@! Now, none of us will ever get a table there!

Kudos to the Watershed in Atlanta, a converted gas station (yes, you read that correctly) who's chef won for best in the southeast. And to Pittsburgh's late night icon, Primanti Brothers in the wearhouse district where steak sandwiches come with fries tucked inside of the bread. And, to one of America's great steaks, the original Doe's Eat Place in Greenville, Miss. NOT the Doe's in Little Rock, but the original where you walk in through the kitchen and they fry the prime beef in cast iron skillets which you can smell a block away.

Still, the two D. C. victories for Citronelle are enormous. Simply, the world as of this evening, no longer revolves around midtown Manhattan. I believe that this victory may even help D. C. hold onto several of America's best chefs who, in a few years, will be trumpeting their own national victories from restaurants in our "town."

A deep bow to Michel, Mark, Frank and R. J. And to their heir apparents.

And, so much for Hoboken's Cucharamama that didn't belong in this league!

[Joe H]

AT 12:53AM USA Today continues to report that both Frank Ruta and RJ Cooper share in the award for the Mid Atlantic area. However, the Beard website shows only Cooper as the award recipient. I hope that clarification of this is imminent by either USA Today or Beard.

[Camille-Beau]

AT 12:53AM USA Today continues to report that both Frank Ruta and RJ Cooper share in the award for the Mid Atlantic area. However, the Beard website shows only Cooper as the award recipient. I hope that clarification of this is imminent by either USA Today or Beard.

Beau was at the awards and said that only RJ's name was announced as the winner. The Beard website is accurate

-Camille

[jparrott]

Wow. And to think I've got some of his smoked hog jowl in the fridge at home.

Congrats, Cooper!

[Scott Johnston]

Last night, 5 of us partook of the Vidalia tasting menu and matching wine flights. We all arrived in time to sample some complimentary wine and apps and were then promptly seated. For the next 4 and a half hours we were treated to one of the best meals I have ever had. While I am awaiting a email with the menu and listing the accompanying wines, I can only say "OH MY GOD" RJ certainly deserves that Beard award and can really cook. Everything from the amuses through the desserts was incredible. the service fantastic, the wines perfectly paired. The pace was leisurely and I left not stuffed but comfortably full. The staff was very attentive. Each course was unique and appealed to all the senses. One oustanding one was his take on Shabu

RJ I can not thank you enough!

[brettashley01]

I was having drinks with a colleague at Vidalia's bar on Friday when I literally bumped into R.J. Cooper as I left the restroom. I was a little star-struck but didn't want to seem too weird, or like someone who spends all her free time on the internet, so I casually inquired if he was the chef, and congratulations on winning that award, wasn't it the James Beard? Oh, yes, it was! Well, no I'm not a food blogger, I just read them. A lot. Chef inquired what we were eating. I told him oh, no, we're just having wine before my colleague's dinner plans.

To this exceptionally gracious chef, this was an unacceptable answer. Not only did he insist on sending something out, he even took my allergies into consideration in the preparation. Within 5 minutes, we had the most delectable nibbles in front of us: hamachi on watermelon (why didn't anyone think of this sooner?) complemented by homemade lime sorbet with hints of piment d'Esplette; and a salmon sashimi over white beets topped with salmon roe, served with a touch of aioli.

Oh, wow, my compliments to the chef. We will be back for more, this time when we don't already have plans.

[deangold]

Well, at the risk of not being able to drink them every time I go to Vidalia, here are a couple of gems from the list:

Edmunds St. John "Rocks and Gravel" (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre) 2003 $44: This is what Chateauneuf used to taste like--pepper, leather, red fruit, firm fruit tannins. This shows exactly no wood influence (Steve uses exclusively older, larger barrels) and is as elegant as they come.

The 04 opf this is even better IMO. Rich purple fruits overtones, plenty of spice without excessive extraction or overripness so common to so many pricy syrah blends.

[zoramargolis]

The last time I ate at Vidalia was eight or nine years ago when it was a sunny yellow place, so it was somewhat of a shock to encounter the sleek, sophisticated muted space that it is now. We nixed the first table we were offered, right next to the dish room, and were re-seated at a table in a more appealing part of the room. There were so many delicious-sounding choices on the menu, that it was extremely difficult to choose. We started with two glasses of very tasty French champagne, and decided to nurse them through the first course. Once we'd decided on our mains, I had a very enjoyable conversation with the sommelier (Doug?) and we took a tour through the truly impressive wine list to choose a bottle of red wine. We chose a 2001 Domaine La Saumade Rasteau Cuvee Confiance, which seemed like a good match with the food as well as a good deal at $54 (a couple of dollars more than twice retail when I last saw it, and essentially no longer availble in the local shops. Some of the wines on the list that I was familiar with were 3x retail.) My request to have it decanted was greeted with a smile, and it opened up beautifully with a little bit of air.

We were offered an amuse of a yellow watermelon cube topped with salmon tartar and a sprig of dill. Veggie-teen's comment: "I like your watermelon with feta better, Mom." Uh oh. Am I unleashing an unalloyed food snob into the world? I started with lobster-corn risotto. It was a fairly hefty serving, and very delicious, with intense flavors both of lobster and corn and just enough tooth to the rice. I don't like risotto that is too al dente, and this was perfect. Jonathan thought it had a bit too much tarragon, but he doesn't like fresh herb flavors nearly as much as I do. Veggie-teen didn't want a first course, she ordered Vidalia onion soup and two sides, but asked for them to be served all together, with our mains. So she helped me eat the risotto. Jonathan ordered a corn veloute with a crab cake and crab sausage. This was a really wonderful dish. The corn poured around the crab was a silky puree with cream and the crab was intensely flavorful. The textures of the crusty lump crab cake and the custard-y sausage were completely different. Jonathan was very, very happy with his choice.

We had eaten our firsts when I asked the waiter about the wonderful bread basket that I remembered from my previous visit. "Oh, didn't they bring you any bread?" Oops. Well the bread basket appeared, with warm cornbread and other freshly baked yummies and that wonderful Vidalia onion compote--better late than never. Veggie-teen dove right into that.

For our mains, Jonathan ordered Kanagy Farms shoat, which was pork four ways. Wow. the waiter told us that when R.J. Cooper went to New York to try out for the James Beard award, this was the dish he prepared for the judges. (Roasted loin with soubise; bacon with wild mushroom-ham hock stuffed vidalia onion; braised shoulder with cippolini onion; tete de shoat and pickled ramp remoulade with a fried quail egg on top. I had quail with cornbread, gizzards and sweet onion stuffing. We were really going with the corn theme. The quail came with a little silky corn flan and a slice of foie gras on top of a corn kernel hash that had some black truffle in it. The quail was just the slightest bit overcooked but still very flavorful. There was a drizzle of bourbon glaze on the plate--but it had been reduced so much that it essentially glued itself to the plate as it cooled and couldn't be accessed. Jonathan's dish was the real winner, figuratively and literally. Veggie-teen ordered a dish of English peas, pearl onions and morels and the mac and cheese with goat cheese, along with the Vidalia onion soup, which was a beautiful clear broth with among other things, a boudin blanc. She's started eating some chicken and beef again--she only ate a couple of bites of the boudin, though. I thought it was a bit heavy on the garlic, and I'm just totally spoiled since having eaten Frank Ruta's boudin blanc a couple of times. She shared some of the peas with us, and the waiter cheerfully brought a little pitcher with Tabasco in it for her to spice up her mac and cheese.

For dessert we had lemon chess pie and pecan pie and coffee. So. Very. Delicious.

I'd love to go back and try some of the other wonderful-sounding things on the menu. It'll need to be another very special occasion though, given Vidalia's price point.

[treznor]

I honestly could eat gallons of their "mac and cheese". I put it in quotes because nothing that tastes like that should just be called mac and cheese. I'll agree on the not sitting in the room with the dishes as well. We sat in their one time we went and it was more than a bit annoying.

[DonRocks]

In the past few months, I’ve found myself dining more often at restaurants where I want to, not places where I feel I “need to.” And because of this, I’ve probably been to Vidalia at least a half-dozen times recently.

It nearly always pays to go off the menu here, and let R J Cooper cook whatever he feels like that evening. Anyone can do this – all you need to do is ask. He loves the chance to break away from shrimp and grits, not that there’s anything wrong with their shrimp and grits.

This past weekend I asked for him to make an appetizer and an entrée, both his choice. Tuna Tartare with La Belle Farm foie gras torchon, Path Valley braised fennel, fennel pollen, and star anise infused caramel was a great example of Cooper’s affinity for barely adorned, subtle dishes, the best of which always include a form of raw fish. I fact-checked the recipe with R J, and in his own words, here is how the dish is prepared (as complex as this dish is, it comes across as utterly simple and supremely elegant – think Richard Strauss as opposed to Johann Strauss):

“Tuna big eye chopped with sel gris, lemon zest dust, chive, espelette pepper and Manni olive oil. We hand chop all the ingredients but the chive so the proteins bond with the flavorings, instead of just coating the tuna with the flavor enhancers.

The torchon is clean liver marinated for 8 hours in couvée of sweet wines, fleur de sel. We then tie it in cheese cloth, poach it in duck stock for 30 seconds, let it dry for an hour then roll it in Himalayan rock salt to cure for 5 days.

Slice it and then season the torchon with flakes of Himalayan sea salt top it with baby fennel that was braised in olive oil thyme rosemary and garlic until soft. Dice into small dice and toss with salt and pepper and the braising oil.

The caramel is a clear caramel of equal parts sugar and glucose brought to a caramel state with star anise steeped into it form the beginning.

When it comes to a caramel state we add minus 8 vinegar to it.”

As compelling as this dish was, it was the main course which captured my heart: Fried Chicken! And the best fried chicken I’ve ever had, too. In R J’s words, “The chicken: poussins from Path Valley coop, taken off the carcass. Season with salt and black pepper. We then dredge the chicken in our secret flour, 3 parts egg, 1 part butter milk, and then again into the flour. Fry in a fryer or skillet. Make Robuchon potatoes. [Editor’s note: do not gloss over the previous laconic, three-word sentence.] For the collard greens, wash, pick off the stem, chiffonade and blanch until tender but still green. Shock in iced water. Melt 4 parts Vidalia onions to 1 part garlic slivers in rendered diced bacon. Season with salt and pepper. When ready to reheat, take a hot pan and clarified butter, add the onion mixture, warm, add the collard greens, season with salt and pepper. Add honey and a vinegar made with cider and chilies steeping into it. Black pepper gravy is jus de poulet with cream to enrich, and black pepper.”

At the end of the year, I’ll look back and include the fried chicken as one of the greatest dishes I had in 2007.

I was chatting with a friend of mine last night, and he made an observation which I hadn’t fully thought through until then. Many people consider the great Roberto Donna as the seminal chef of Washington, DC, given the great chefs he has spawned from underneath his tutelage. Both Todd Gray of Equinox and Cesare Lanfranconi of Tosca came directly from Galileo, and Amy Brandwein is now Chef de Cuisine at Bebo Trattoria. Gray and Lanfranconi subsequently spawned Brendan Cox (Circle Bistro, Dish), Nathan Anda (Tallula, EatBar), Tony Chittum (Vermillion), Ethan McKee (Chef de Cuisine at Equinox) and Massimo Fabbri (Chef de Cuisine at Tosca).

Consideration would also go to several others, including Michel Richard. This having been said, the torch of Washington, DC’s Patriarch Chef must, for now, pass from Roberto Donna into the hands of Jeff Buben.

Buben himself won the James Beard award in 1999, and now, as of 2007, Vidalia is one of only two restaurants in United States history – along with The French Laundry – to have won the award twice, as R J Cooper shared the award with Frank Ruta this year. But Cooper only scratches the surface of Buben’s descendents: Cathal Armstrong at Restaurant Eve, Eric Ziebold of CityZen, Peter Smith of PS7, Orlando Hitzig of Mark and Orlando’s, and Joseph Harran of Bistro Bis all worked in Vidalia’s kitchen – AT THE SAME TIME. Just before Armstrong arrived, Nathan Beauchamp of 1789 was there too, and now Armstrong has spawned Shannon Overmiller of The Majestic.

If you think about it carefully, you’ll realize there are some very, very famous chefs in this town who cannot even come close to this track record – perhaps it’s just a matter of priorities.

Cheers,

Rocks.