San Antonio, TX

[will_5198]

Of San Antonio’s indigenous foods, the puffy taco is seemingly the most notable. You can’t find them in any other major Texan city, at least not regularly, which gives them a sense of place that’s hard to come by with food nowadays.

Ray’s Drive-Inn is often cited as the birthplace of puffy tacos, although I’ve read rumors that a place in Austin predates them. Whatever the case, they’re most known for popularizing them, so I guess the victors write the history.

Celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, the restaurant itself is a hodgepodge of parking, seating, decor and menu items. In addition to puffy tacos they sell hamburgers and hot dogs, are cash only (of course), and have about five Jesus pictures staring at you at all times. True kitsch on display here.

I’ve found it’s best to keep it simple with puffy tacos: A beef taco ($2) and avocado taco ($2.15) arrived freshly fried but not greasy, both with ballooned masa shells that you just can’t find in many other places. These puffy tacos avoided the common fault of flaking apart too quickly, which is probably a lot harder to do than it seems. The fillings, however, were about as rudimentary as they come -- I wasn’t expecting to be floored by ground beef or crushed avocado, but both could’ve used a lot more seasoning.

That aside, the shells themselves were delicious and well-done. I left one of the country’s classic food institutions with a new puffy taco benchmark.

****

While Ray’s Drive-Inn is the original flag-bearer, Los Barrios gave the puffy taco Food Network appeal -- literally, when Diana Barrios-Trevino competed on a “Throwdown with Bobby Flay” episode back in 2007. The Los Barrios owner bested Mesa Grill’s golden boy, and a lot more people knew what a puffy taco was afterwards.

Today there’s not much to mark the big media blitz from a decade ago, as the whole place is largely unassuming (albeit popular). Unlike Ray’s it’s a full-service Mexican restaurant with a menu of all the familiar classics, but I was here for those scripted-TV-winning puffy tacos.

An El Perfecto ($9) margarita started things off strongly, literally, along with a perfect rendition of chips and salsa. And I mean perfect chips -- warm, with that fresh out of the oil glisten and ideal texture.

The #4 Presidential Puffy Tacos ($10.50) is a two-taco combo platter of your choice. I went with beef and avocado again, and in a direct comparison these were not structured as well as Ray’s -- my ground beef taco was past the point of picking up by the time it hit the table. The actual fillings were better, however, and the sides of rice and borracho beans were phenomenal.

I’d work through the rest of Los Barrios puffy taco menu if given the chance, but based on the sides and chips I’d be content coming here for everything else is on their menu.

****

Like most good food histories, the puffy taco comes with a little bit of family drama. Ray Lopez, owner of the aforementioned Ray’s Drive-Inn, had a pair of younger brothers that worked for him back in the murky 1950s of food copyright. Arturo Lopez eventually took over the original business, while Henry Lopez took the puffy taco idea out to California for a bit.

Of course, both men claimed invention of the puffy taco in the years after, especially when it came to branding their separate restaurants. When Henry got back from the west coast he opened Henry’s Puffy Tacos in 1978, about three miles from his brother and Ray’s.

Whatever the history, I have to give the edge to Henry on this one. The chicken taco ($2.89) and beans and cheese taco ($2.89) were the best of my visit; the shells were fried expertly and the fillings had the most attention paid to them. I believe refried beans with cheese is the way to go when it comes to puffy tacos, as both act as a bond that prolongs the integrity of the delicate shell.

The shredded chicken was just as delicious, however, and was fit for hand-held consumption even after sitting a bit while I took an awkward picture.

Anyway, after gaining some basic knowledge of the landmarks serving it, I’d recommend everyone try a puffy taco when in San Antonio. It’s not a mind-blower, but it’s certainly unique, tasty and worth experiencing.

[pidgey]

You just made me homesick. The puffy taco is one of San Antonio's real delights.

[mr food]

Second Los Barrios-one of my consistent favorites in SA. The town is booming food wise. Why TS lauded Houston over SA is a mystery. After all, the CIA has a branch in SA not Houston.

[And]

Will be headed here for work next week. Any recommendations? Places to avoid on the riverwalk?

-Andy

[will_5198]

On 6/19/2018 at 3:07 PM, And said:

Will be headed here for work next week. Any recommendations? Places to avoid on the riverwalk?

-Andy

Avoid eating on the River Walk in general.

Pearl Brewery is a 10-minute Uber from downtown and a much better bet. It's one of those "Eat-Shop-Live" mixed use areas, but done on the grounds of a 135-year-old former brewery. There you'll find: 

The Granary -- A very good barbecue restaurant that helped popularize barbecue pastrami in Texas a few years ago. Their pastrami beef rib is a Tuesday special and worth the trip alone. They also do composed courses for dinner and make their own beer.

Cured -- I would not argue with anyone who proposed this as San Antonio's best restaurant. I don't get excited for charcuterie at most places, but they put real effort into it and have great variety. Make sure to load up on the small plates; chef Steve McHugh does an incredible job taking familiar dishes and giving them one or two lovely surprises. I had a blood sausage pain perdu that remains fond in my memory, and a simple couscous with grilled lamb liver, lemon and parmesan that ate like one of the best risottos ever. Great drinks and rustic desserts as well.

Bakery Lorraine -- Worthwhile bakery that specializes in French staples, breakfast and light lunch. Perfect stop to begin or end your day around Pearl.

Lick Ice Creams -- An Austin export but I've had good experiences at all their locations. It's June in Texas, so you'll want ice cream.

[mr food]

I wasn't too impressed with Cured though it has been a couple of years. Hot Joy is fun. I've had good meals at Bigga on the Banks, can be pricey. Touristy but fun El Marcado in the Market Square has decent tex mex though Los Barrios remains a favorite-also try Rosarios on South Alamo.  Have a drink at Esquire Taven.

[will_5198]

11 hours ago, mr food said:

Have a drink at Esquire Taven.

I had a rough go eating on the River Walk but a second vote for Esquire Tavern. They made me a perfect Manhattan and the atmosphere is just right during the week.

[dcs]

Some highlights from a recent trip to San Antonio, in chronological order:

Nonna Osteria - Pleasant rustic Italian food in the Fairmont Hotel.  The menu has evolved a bit from what is currently online.  We enjoyed a Pizza Cinghiale and the Lobster Ravioli.

Esquire Tavern - We appreciated our drink at an extremely long bar, which was generally loud and crowded on an early Saturday evening.  We quickly retreated to their Downstairs bar, which had more of a speakeasy vibe - dimly lit and doorway not immediately obvious.  It also appeared to have a policy of serving only those who have a seat, so no crowds lingering by the bar.  They have a smaller, more select menu.  We enjoyed a nice cheese plate.

High Street Wine Co. - Despite being November, it was a hot walk to the Pearl District, so we ducked into High Street Wine Co. for some wine and a carafe of water.  The wine was fine, and the air conditioning and soul and R&B on the sound system was most welcome.

Maverick - Stopped in here for brunch.  If you like coddled eggs, they have them on the Braised Pork Belly and the Salad Lyonnaise.  We had both and suggest you do as well.  Oh yeah, I almost forgot, get a brown butter brioche doughnut.  You won't be sorry.

Burleson Yard Beer Garden - We tried walking to the Alamo Brewery through a desolate stretch of San Antonio, but got waylaid by this place.  They had an interesting draft beer selection and a taco shack outside in the beer garden.  A frozen mango margarita was particularly tasty.  I am pretty sure we were the only tourists there as everyone else seemed to know each other.

Sternewirth - Had a gin and tonic at the bar of the Hotel Emma in the Pearl District.  This seems to be where all of the beautiful people stay when in San Antonio.  We stayed at a Marriott.

Southerleigh Fine Food & Brewery - Also in the Pearl District.  As the name implies, this was southern-style eats.  Enjoyed some gulf oysters, quail, and fried chicken.

Rosario's - Final stop of the trip at the Southtown location.  Got here around 11:30am for lunch and the place was already half-full.  It was packed when we left, and it is not a small space.  Had to try some puffy tacos, because that's apparently how they do it in San Antonio.  The Sopa Azteca was also a strong offering as were the Albóndigas.

[dracisk]

I'm going to be in San Antonio for the first time at the end of April for a short work trip (otherwise known as two dinners, two breakfasts, and one or two lunches). I read through the posts in this thread and came up with the following list of contenders for my dining slots:

• Boudro's
• Rosario's
• Los Barrios
• Liberty Bar
• Acenar

The Esquire Tavern sounds interesting, too, so I may try to get a cocktail there.

Any thoughts or any additional places to recommend? I'll be speaking at a conference at the Westin Riverwalk so will be staying either there or in that general vicinity, and I won't have a car (though I'm happy to take a cab for someplace delicious). I'd definitely like to concentrate on Tex Mex and/or Mexican food. I'm less interested in barbecue.

I'd definitely like to try puffy tacos -- thinking Los Barrios for that -- and I have little to no experience with breakfast tacos so am wondering if anyone has a recommendation for those near the Westin.

Thanks in advance!

[reedm]

On 3/22/2019 at 11:48 AM, dracisk said:

I'm going to be in San Antonio for the first time at the end of April for a short work trip (otherwise known as two dinners, two breakfasts, and one or two lunches). I read through the posts in this thread and came up with the following list of contenders for my dining slots:

• Boudro's
• Rosario's
• Los Barrios
• Liberty Bar
• Acenar

The Esquire Tavern sounds interesting, too, so I may try to get a cocktail there.

Any thoughts or any additional places to recommend? I'll be speaking at a conference at the Westin Riverwalk so will be staying either there or in that general vicinity, and I won't have a car (though I'm happy to take a cab for someplace delicious). I'd definitely like to concentrate on Tex Mex and/or Mexican food. I'm less interested in barbecue.

I'd definitely like to try puffy tacos -- thinking Los Barrios for that -- and I have little to no experience with breakfast tacos so am wondering if anyone has a recommendation for those near the Westin.

Thanks in advance!

The only place I've been on your list is Boudro's, and while I haven't been in a while, it's always been an oasis in the desert of crappy river walk food. 

If you want to venture out, check out Pearl, which is a complex located in the long-closed Pearl Brewery. There are some highly rated, interesting spots in that area. It's a short drive from the River Walk.

Breakfast tacos are everywhere in SA. Perhaps ask the hotel staff for ideas.

If you change your mind about barbecue, try Barbecue Station for lunch one day.

Enjoy your trip!

[Mark Dedrick]

On 3/22/2019 at 11:48 AM, dracisk said:

I'm going to be in San Antonio for the first time at the end of April for a short work trip (otherwise known as two dinners, two breakfasts, and one or two lunches). I read through the posts in this thread and came up with the following list of contenders for my dining slots:

• Boudro's
• Rosario's
• Los Barrios
• Liberty Bar
• Acenar

The Esquire Tavern sounds interesting, too, so I may try to get a cocktail there.

Any thoughts or any additional places to recommend? I'll be speaking at a conference at the Westin Riverwalk so will be staying either there or in that general vicinity, and I won't have a car (though I'm happy to take a cab for someplace delicious). I'd definitely like to concentrate on Tex Mex and/or Mexican food. I'm less interested in barbecue.

I'd definitely like to try puffy tacos -- thinking Los Barrios for that -- and I have little to no experience with breakfast tacos so am wondering if anyone has a recommendation for those near the Westin.

Thanks in advance!

Reading this and realized that I hadn't posted anything about where I ate when I spent the week before the election there last fall. Here are a few spots I'd strongly recommend:

Cured - Best fine dining meal I've had in San Antonio

Carnitas Lonja - The best food I've had in San Antonio. It's amazing and you should 100% go. 

Supper - We had a very nice dinner here as well

I'll try to type up my notes in more detail soon. 

[dracisk]

On 3/22/2019 at 11:48 AM, dracisk said:

I'm going to be in San Antonio for the first time at the end of April for a short work trip (otherwise known as two dinners, two breakfasts, and one or two lunches). I read through the posts in this thread and came up with the following list of contenders for my dining slots:

• Boudro's
• Rosario's
• Los Barrios
• Liberty Bar
• Acenar

The Esquire Tavern sounds interesting, too, so I may try to get a cocktail there.

Any thoughts or any additional places to recommend? I'll be speaking at a conference at the Westin Riverwalk so will be staying either there or in that general vicinity, and I won't have a car (though I'm happy to take a cab for someplace delicious). I'd definitely like to concentrate on Tex Mex and/or Mexican food. I'm less interested in barbecue.

I'd definitely like to try puffy tacos -- thinking Los Barrios for that -- and I have little to no experience with breakfast tacos so am wondering if anyone has a recommendation for those near the Westin.

Thanks in advance!

My (brief) trip is next week if anyone has any last-minute tips! Thanks for the responses I've received so far!!

[Ericandblueboy]

Top 100 List by San Antonio Express News.

I've heard about and seen Gwendolyn on TV (Andrew Zimmern).

Quote

Chef Michael Sohocki’s Restaurant Gwendolyn is devoted to the art and artifice of partying like it’s 1849. In his preindustrial kitchen, there are no electrical gadgets, no deep fryers, no tidy shortcuts. The concessions to modernity: refrigeration, plumbing and a website.

 

[will_5198]

El Pastor Es Mi Señor

Ever since I experienced them in Mexico, tacos al pastor -- from a trompo -- are my favorite style of taco. The harmony of flame-coddled pork, different textures when cut from the spit, spice and earthiness of adobo, sweetness from pineapple -- all together, one of the great food combinations in history.

The tacos al pastor at El Pastor Es Mi Señor, while not impeccable, definitely scratched my itch for a true version of the classic. Nailed perfectly was the texture of meat, with various bits of doneness and flavor that can only be imparted from fire. Beautiful small cuts of slightly charred pineapple are added on each taco, opposed to a freezing cold slice from a reach-in or none at all. The double corn tortillas do their job without being distracting. All in all, the mouthfeel of each bite is my memory from Mexico.  

What could take these tacos to a higher level, and I've only been once so this may be isolated, is just a touch more salt on the pork itself or in the salsas (both roja and verde were surprisingly mild in the chili department, as well). That was literally the only aspect I was missing.

Nevertheless, absolutely worth the late-night stop and a fine example of a taco-style not abundant in Texas.

 

Above: Al pastor tacos smothered in salsa roja (left). Nothing better than seeing the open lights of a taqueria at night (right).

Pollos Asados Los Norteños

If you've been to Texas this place is similar to the Pollo Regio chain, but much better. Whole and half grilled chickens, absolutely hammered bright orange with adobo (I mean that lovingly) and juicier than ever imaginable. The chicken is accompanied by rice, an entire half of a grilled onion, a grilled jalapeno, store-bought tortillas that do the job, and you must add the perfectly cooked charro beans (the best $1.50 you'll spend) to round out the meal.

The best part, though? Their green sauce. Pour it on everything. I believe Jesus forgot a line when it comes to communion, as more people would be in church if this salsa was passed out with unleavened bread.

Friendly table service, no gimmicks and delectable food at a great price. A restaurant that reminds me why I always enjoy eating in San Antonio.

 

Above: Half-grilled chicken combo (left). Accompaniments (right).

Taquitos West Avenue

Midway through its second decade of operation, I imparted from the lines that this place is a San Antonio institution. Open until 3 am on weekends, the line was 25-deep at midnight on a Saturday, everyone waiting to approach the glassed-in taquero station.

Once at the front, you become witness to the mountains of different meats and oversized rotating trompo, and your order is made almost instantly -- powered by the muscle memory of a thousand tacos a day and bare hands flavored by the permeation of meat drippings, lime juice, and the smell of corn tortillas.

You walk away from the window with your taco-laden styrofoam plate (we all know tacos taste better on a styrofoam plate) and try to pay, but the man at the outside register tells you to pay after you finish eating, under some kind of odd honor system that expedites the line. Finding a small stool and table in the crowd, you dress your plate with a little salsa verde, or even hotter salsa roja, and you are now in your happy place.

These are the kind of tacos I love to eat. This is the kind of place that will make you love tacos.

Above: Taquitos West Avenue (left). Al pastor (cooked on a trompo but finished and held on the griddle, so missing the best parts), chorizo, tripa dorada (fried tripe and one of my favorite tacos if done right; this was above average), suadero, cabeza (probably the least successful for me), lengua (not a lover of this cut but very good here) and bistek. 

 

[reedm]

Great write-up and photos! I'm headed to SA soon to spend Christmas with my parents. Perhaps I'll get a chance to check one of these places out.

[will_5198]

14 hours ago, reedm said:

I'm headed to SA soon to spend Christmas with my parents. Perhaps I'll get a chance to check one of these places out.

If I had one meal to eat in San Antonio right now, I would go to brunch at Cullum's Attaboy. I'm in love with everything about it: the small old house that it occupies, the diner-style open kitchen where the cooks also play the role of servers, the tight and enthralling menu of simple delights, and the fact you can get real truffles shaved over nearly anything.

Everything put on the table has an attention to detail that any food enthusiast can appreciate, which is my favorite type of cooking -- small perfections that layer upon themselves, and create dishes that are both directly and subtly astounding.

Take the pancakes for example. They are fluffy without being overly so. The outside is griddle-caramelized to just the right point, with the slightest of crunches on the edges. There is a hint of orange zest in every bite, enough to balance out the richness without being orange-flavored. They are divine, and that is coming from a waffle person.

Better yet, their French omelette. Cooked to the consistency I imagine Escoffier had in mind, folded over with the most delicate skin, massaged with butter and a ladle of their sublime hollandaise. To top it off, a light rainfall of shaved truffle (+$10), which is one of the best upcharges I can remember.

Having been disappointed enough times by white and black truffles over various seasons at a number of restaurants, I have sort of given up on chasing truffle highs at this point in life. But the ones served here were some of the most flavorful I have ever had, the aroma hitting me as soon as the plate touched the table. A perfect omelette turned immaculate.

There were a number of menu items I instantly regretted not being able to try -- baked tomato French toast, escargot, bavette and eggs, pastrami, their numerous burgers and egg sandwiches -- and if I lived in the area I can't imagine not being here at least twice a month.

So yes, I'm a fan of Cullum's Attaboy. To me, the most Palena-esque restaurant I have found in Texas -- not the cuisine itself, but the exacting detail that makes a timeworn dish taste like you are eating it for the first time.

Above (left): The open kitchen at Cullum's Attaboy. Your order is placed at the counter, grab a table number and coffee/water is self-serve. Food will then be brought out by the cooks themselves. Right: Champagne-poached scallop with trout roe, dill and textbook hollandaise. Pure deliciousness. 

Above (left): Omelette masterpiece. Frisee was perfectly dressed with a light champagne vinaigrette. Right: The only pancakes I'd skip a waffle for.