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Corduroy, Fine Dining at the Convention Center - Chef Tom Power's Magnificent Cooking


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Go get the tomato salad while you can.  Seriously.  If you're thinking, its just tomatos it couldn't be that good you'd be WRONG.  These are the sort of perfectly ripe tomatos I used to dream about when I lived in Hawaii where there is no such thing as a ripe tomato.  They seem simply dressed with basil oil, apple cider vinegar, and cracked pepper but that belies the depth of fresh, summer-on-a-plate flavor.

Heed Laniloa's advice. I stopped by the bar last night for a dinner of tomato salad, spring rolls, and creme brulee. The tomatoes were show-stoppingly good, reminiscent of the rural Georgian tomatoes of my youth.

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NICE lunch today at Corduroy. All 5 of us left sated and happy. The Mrs. and I were the only repeat customers. I had a crispy bluefish over tomato special. Wonderfully crispy skin around the edges. Perfectly cooked fish. A slightly thicker sauce would have been nicer, if only that it might not have easily splashed onto my shirt leaving me with spots for the rest of the day! Still, some very nice halved yellow Romas in there.

Mrs. had an omelet. Didn't taste and don't remember what kind. She devoured it too quickly. Billy (newcomer #1, my main buddy and a man well attuned to fine restaurants in DC (still trying to drag him to the picnic!)) had a duck confit special. That was a real winner. Definitely sensed some traces of anise in there, but didn't think it was part of the dish. Nice and tender. Put smiles on the face.

Mom and uncle (newcomers #2 and 3) each had a softshell crab. Uncle says, "Wow, this sauce is incredible. Paul, you gotta try this." We started with the Ron Jeremys. I'm thinking it will soon be time for Rissa to give classes on their construction and cooking for those of us wanting to make the love at home!

Finished with a treat of Honey Creme Fraiche topped with a yummy blackberry. More smiles. Thanks everyone for a great lunch. You guys just rock! Ten thumbs up from the 5 of us!

Edited by CrescentFresh
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The dinner at Corduroy last night was simply delicious. Sorry for the lack of pictures.

Ferhat and his associates poured a sparkling brut rose and came around with plates of THOSE spring rolls (much shorter than the usual ones, making them a lot easier to eat), oysters on the half shell (which I passed up) and Rilletes of Duck Leg. This was a most wonderful pate served as a scoop on a slice of baguette. Since I was already worried about being able to eat everything to come, I limited myself to just one of these; however, I found this stuff as addictive as Craig finds the Firefly fried oysters. I was imagining myself with a bowl of this and a spoon :lol: .

The first course was a Vidalia Onion Soubise, served with a Pinot Gris. This was a creamy onion soup that was full of flavor. The wine paired very well with this, not to gild the lily or anything.

Next came my favorite of the night: Peppered Rare Tuna with Kabocha Squash Baghi, served with a 2004 Pinot Noir. What a great combination of flavors. My only quibble was that the wine probably should have been a bit sweeter, to complement the sweetness of the squash.

The third course was Roast Ballotine of Sunnyside Farms Chicken and Local Shitake Mushrooms, Foie Gras Sauce. I wish I had a picture, then I wouldn't have to strain my brain to describe this: two slices of what looked like a sausage or country pate. How do I describe this sauce? "Lick the plate" Good? The 2003 Pinot Noir went beautifully with this. One of our tablemates said that she never expected to drink red wine with chicken, but it worked.

Course #4: Niman Ranch Pork Belly with Savoy Cabbage. It was a good thing there was a chill in the air last night because this dish defined "comfort food", particularly when it's cold outside and Spring seems very far away. But, because it was cooked by Tom Power, this was raised a few levels above what "Pork and Cabbage" might bring to mind. The wine was a 2002 Pinot Noir. Just lovely.

The Fifth and, supposedly, final course: Epoisses with Burgundy Truffle and figs. Rissa told me earlier that she wanted to serve a cheese course instead of a sweet dessert. OK by me. Chef Power dug out his Port and served that with the soft, smelly cheese and fresh (!) figs.

Well, I thought, THAT was certainly a satisfying dinner and was congratulating myself on being able to join the Clean Plate Club, when out came another soup plate containing a scoop of Honey Creme Fraiche Ice Cream with a lacy cookie. I happily ate that, too.

The wines were provided by R. Stuart Wines of Oregon. A representative of the winery was there, a lovely and enthusiastic lady from Ireland of all places, to give us the background of the winery and to talk about the various vintages we were drinking.

At $100 per person (including the tip :D ), this was a real bargain. And $25 of that was donated to Share Our Strength to help out the victims of Hurricane Katrina. Which meant, of course, that Chef Power was giving away his food last night. So we added some extra bucks to the bill (are you reading this, Rocks? You're welcome).

A special added attraction was that I was sitting so that I could face the corridor where the servers pick up dishes from the kitchen. Ferhat sat another couple with us, so we had lovely company for the evening. I was able to surreptitiously observe the "ballet" that Ferhat and the others performed. Since I have never worked in a restaurant before (being a cashier at the restaurant in the Holiday Inn in Rosslyn 30+ years ago doesn't count), I was interested in how they managed to serve about 36 people mostly at the same time in such a seemingly serene way. From first course to last took about 3 hours. I thought the pacing was just right.

Michael Landrum, if you are reading this: The couple sitting with us mentioned that they had never eaten at your place because they had heard that reservations were hard to come by and you have a 90-MINUTE TIME LIMIT. I explained what that was all about, I believe in the way YOU have explained this several times in several venues. You're welcome.

Those who missed out on the Restaurant Eve dinner would have done themselves a favor by being at the Corduroy dinner. And, because of the donation to SOS, we got to feel smug, aside from satiated.

Rissa has to be at work at 4 on Sunday, but plans to spend a couple of hours with us at the picnic. Ferhat is off on Sunday and is planning on joining us, too. I'm anxious to see if he will be able to just sit back and enjoy himself or if he will feel the need to keep glasses full and checking on everybody :P:D:D

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Ferhat is off on Sunday and is planning on joining us, too.  I'm anxious to see if he will be able to just sit back and enjoy himself or if he will feel the need to keep glasses full and checking on everybody :lol:   :P   :D

Im sure no one wants me to order things for all of you to do ; you pass the potato salad , you need to be carrying me all over the place , you need to polish my shoes :D:D

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Im sure no one wants me to order things for all of you to do ; you pass the potato salad , you need to be carrying me all over the place , you need to polish my shoes  :lol:   :P

Yeah, but if you DO revert to form, you may be surprised at the level of compliance you will get. Except polishing your shoes or kissing your butt. We only kiss Jacques (nicely smoked) butt. :D

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Just when you think you have eaten everything on the menu at Corduroy you are surprised. The special on the menu tonight was Chicken Ballotine. Boned chicken leg stuffed with shitake mushrooms, foie gras, and chicken mouse, served with mashed potatoes and chantrelles with a foie gras sauce. Simply outstanding! Chef Power shows his kitchen skills once again.

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Just when you think you have eaten everything on the menu at Corduroy you are surprised.  The special on the menu tonight was Chicken Ballotine.  Boned chicken leg stuffed with shitake mushrooms, foie gras, and chicken mouse, served with mashed potatoes and chantrelles with a foie gras sauce.  Simply outstanding!  Chef Power shows his kitchen skills once again.

Wow, that sounds delicious. Ballotines can be tricky - I'd love to try this. Maybe it will make another appearance.

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Last night, I trudged my sad-because-my-roof-is-leaking self on over to Corduroy, hoping to escape the troubles of the day. Talk about divine intervention! I had a lovely meal at the bar, and more.

Part I
Thank you Ferhat and Rissa for a lovely dining experience. My tough day melted away with a delicious meal and your attentive, generous, and welcoming energy. I could not have had a better time sitting at the bar last night.

Part II
It was bound to happen, and imagine it happening last night of all nights. I finally ran into the guy who has been all over town, at the best restaurants, claiming to be Don Rockwell. Oh, yes. You've seen (and heard) him. Loud. Overbearing. Self-important. Obnoxious. Flaunting his celebrity at every turn. Telling strangers over and over and over again, Tom referenced me in his weekly chat. Top that. When I walked into the bar at Corduroy, Rocks was working the crowd, shaking hands (interrupting patron after patron), handing out his 3 x 5 business card, saying, Don Rocks. The pleasure's all yours. After tolerating Rocks' antics, I finally asked if someone could have a word with him. How on earth could I enjoy my bluefish (with the tomato marmalade that I all but licked off the plate), with this show boater making such a scene.

All jokes aside, I can confirm that I finally met Don Rocks, international man of mystery. Ferhat was gracious enough to tip Rocks off that someone from dr.com was at the bar. Thereafter, Rocks graciously and ever so humbly (as humble as a man who names a website after himself can be), introduced himself. I'm still not convinced it was him, though. I should have asked to see a photo ID!

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How on earth could I enjoy my bluefish (with the tomato marmalade that I all but licked off the plate), with this show boater making such a scene. 

All jokes aside, I can confirm that I finally met Don Rocks

That bluefish is killer, isn't it? That served as inspiration for a similar bluefish dish I made at home earlier this week. As a kid, I used to go fishing for them in Bayonne, NJ. Love 'em.

Who's Don Rocks?

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Melissa and I celebrated 14 years of marriage at Corduroy on Wednesday with a delicious tasting menu. Some of the dishes echoed Barbara's from a few nights earlier. Some of the dishes I had before. This was all fine by me because everything is delicious.

Began with a couple of glasses of blanc de blancs to accompany a Red Snapper Bisque and the Vidalia Onion Soubise. We'd never had either there before and both were really comforting. I think I preferred the bisque, although the only reason that might have been was because I was a seafood kick and it hit that particular spot.

This was followed by a half bottle of Meursault, Domaine Joseph Matrot, "Les Chevalieres", 2002 to accompany everybody's favorite seared scallop with chanterelles in chardonnay sauce. This dish is just perfect and later in the evening I watched someone at another table order it as an entree. You should have seen this dude's eyes light up.

Next came the Peppered Rare Tuna with Kabocha Squash Baghi. If the scallop is deliciously subtle, this dish is deliciously bold. Melissa thought the dish had an excellent progression of flavors, as the tuna was flavorful yet mild. The squash was sweet but also exploded with spices.

A half bottle of Ridge, Zinfandel, Geyserville, California, 2002 was served along with the duck confit that my friend Bill had for lunch a few days earlier. Yes there is star anise in it. Last came the Pork Belly with Savoy Cabbage that was so rich and round, and I really liked the wine with it.

Dessert gave us a couple styles of chocolate. A Chocolate Grand Marnier ice cream and a chocolate tart. Just the right amount of sweetness. The tart was really tender and soft and light and it made you wonder how it held its shape without just collapsing into itself. We were full by this time, so we had to take some of the tart home. Which was just fine because we got to enjoy it again the next night. It also meant we didn't get to lick our plates completely clean, which would have gotten kind of messy because they wrote Happy 14th Anniversary! in chocolate around both plates. A very nice touch.

There's this handful of restaurants that I just keep saying "I don't know why I don't come here more often." I know I've said it about Corduroy and now I'm doing something about it. I think I've been there about 3-4 times in the past few weeks and it always continues to amaze on every level; food, wine, service and a comfortable room.

When I eat at Corduroy, no matter the time of day, who I'm with, or if it's for a meal or a happy hour snack, I feel like it's fine dining in the company of friends. That's the effect of the kitchen and staff. They're helpful and eager to please and you shouldn't hesitate for a moment to ask a question or bring anything to their attention. Thanks for feeding us so nicely, so consistently. Choosing Corduroy for a special occasion dinner, like our anniversary, is a hands down excellent choice.

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So I'll be finally knocking Corduroy off of my very slowly dwindling must-dine-at list tomorrow night. Scallops? Check. Bluefish? Double check. Ballotine (if still around). Many more checks. What else should we be on the lookout for?

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So I'll be finally knocking Corduroy off of my very slowly dwindling must-dine-at list tomorrow night.  Scallops?  Check.  Bluefish?  Double check.  Ballotine (if still around).  Many more checks.  What else should we be on the lookout for?

Cauliflower Parmesan Soup. New on the menu and nice on the tastebuds.

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Stopped by for a light meal last night--- hi Ferhat!

Wanted to echo the compliments on the cauliflower parmesan soup. It's hard to find cream based soups where you can still actually taste the vegetable but Chef Power always manages this delicate balance.

Edited by gnatharobed
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I'm heading to Corduroy tomorrow night with my mom and very picky stepfather. I've been many times but as I don't pay attention to what is offered beside the veggies, I was wondering if someone could fill me in on recent entree offerings. I was told that my stepdad will eat chicken, and some seafood, and...that's about it. I am a bit worried but I refuse to eat at some crappy chain just to appease him.

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I'm heading to Corduroy tomorrow night with my mom and very picky stepfather.  I've been many times but as I don't pay attention to what is offered beside the veggies, I was wondering if someone could fill me in on recent entree offerings.  I was told that my stepdad will eat chicken, and some seafood, and...that's about it. I am a bit worried but I refuse to eat at some crappy chain just to appease him.

Confit of duck with tarbais beans. I think they also have had roast chicken that looked very good.

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I'm heading to Corduroy tomorrow night with my mom and very picky stepfather.  I've been many times but as I don't pay attention to what is offered beside the veggies, I was wondering if someone could fill me in on recent entree offerings.  I was told that my stepdad will eat chicken, and some seafood, and...that's about it. I am a bit worried but I refuse to eat at some crappy chain just to appease him.

Go for the bluefish. Make sure stepdad knows that this isn't a typical white fleshed, mild fish, but more hearty, like a salmon or tuna but with a different texture. The skin comes out wonderfully crispy and the fillet is soft and packed with flavor. The tomatoes give a great acidic cut and complement to the density of the fish.

If he doesn't go for that, get the scallops.

Here's a bluefish question for folks. It's often described as an oily fish. It's healthy oil, like in a mackeral, etc., and I think it's downright delicious. But there's something about that word oily that I think might turn people off. What other word would you use?

Edited by CrescentFresh
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I would not recommend bluefish to a finnicky eater.  I no longer consider myself to be a picky eater and frankly, I don't like bluefish.  I find its flavor to be too fishy, perhaps because of all that oil.

I agree if the bluefish is poorly prepared. At Corduroy it's about as perfect as you can get it.

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Confit of duck with tarbais beans.

A second on that.
My favorite TV commercial is for "Sticks 'n Stuff". Their spokesperson is a lower echelon NASCAR driver named Tina Gordon. She has the sweetest backwoods Carolina accent that just makes you smile. The duck confit is like that.
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There's also Wagyu beef striploin with rutabaga gratin, as well as a buffalo striploin with mushroom sauce. Those are two things that would appeal to my own picky parents. :lol:

If you'd like me to e-mail you a scan of a recent menu, shoot me your e-mail address via PM and I will share with you what I have.

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We had a wonderful time at Corduroy last night! Our deepest thanks to Ferhat, Rissa, and Chef Tom, all of whom conspired to make our spur-of-the-moment visit feel like a special occassion :P

We both started with the caulifower-parmesan soup -- I have never had anything but a perfect bowl of soup there, and this was no disappointment! I dredged my crispy bread through the bowl and was very, very happy. Ferhat brought us a lovely white wine -- this was lovely. Light but creamy :D

We also had the mozz. porcupine -- we weren't going to have it AND the soup, but I gave in at the last second and was happy I did. In fact, despite protestations to the contrary by my dinner companion, I only got the front and the back ends! The middle disappeared...rapidly!

He had the softshell crabs and seemed happy with them, and I had the fish -- it was nice, but the real star for me was the potato-truffle sauce -- another good use for my bread! :lol:

Rissa and Ferhat both stopped by in the midst of their duties and were a joy to talk with :D

For dessert, I had the chocolate tart (read: fudge on a crust) with bananas and he had the creme brulee...wow. But first, Chef Tom sent us out a real treat -- fresh raspberry sorbet. I am a HUGE raspberry fan, and this was as good as it could get. Pure, pure raspberry flavor. Wow wow wow.

I hadn't slept in about 3 nights, so we had to toddle on home before the wine knocked me out completely (which it did anyway), but with pleasant memories of a lovely, lovely evening!

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Go for the bluefish.  Make sure stepdad knows that this isn't a typical white fleshed, mild fish, but more hearty, like a salmon or tuna but with a different texture.  The skin comes out wonderfully crispy and the fillet is soft and packed with flavor.  The tomatoes give a great acidic cut and complement to the density of the fish.

If he doesn't go for that, get the scallops. 

Here's a bluefish question for folks.  It's often described as an oily fish.  It's healthy oil, like in a mackeral, etc., and I think it's downright delicious.  But there's something about that word oily that I think might turn people off.  What other word would you use?

Buttery ?!

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Here's a bluefish question for folks. It's often described as an oily fish. It's healthy oil, like in a mackeral, etc., and I think it's downright delicious. But there's something about that word oily that I think might turn people off. What other word would you use?

Click here for my prescient little tome on bluefish smile.gif
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Click here for my prescient little tome on bluefish  :P

Whoa, look at that! You must have one helluva set of crystal balls at home, Rocks! :lol:

I think that whatever we can do to promote bluefish acceptance and consumption is clearly in the greater good of diners everywhere. I'd like to recommend that the Hammerhead designation be re-codified to 1000 posts, and the new Bluefish level be the successor to Ventworm.

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Buttery is accurate, I think, and sounds a lot more appetizing than oily.

Bluefish is (to me) a sports fish, rich, dense, potent, flavorfull (fish). It also helps to know, most restaurants us the 7-14 pound range, too small, and they are not worth the effort to clean (portion wise), too large, and (at least my fishmonger says) they are TOO oily, to gamey... but, if someone likes game; venison, rabbit, deer, etc, it might be in their ballpark. I have compared it to a swordfish in texture, but not really in flavor. Well, that's my take on the swimmin' guys....Eat well, and prosper :lol:

Edited by DaveBVI
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BREAKING NEWS!!!!

Um, Corduroy still doesn't suck. The beets don't suck. The soups certainly don't suck, nor does the duck confit, nor the lamb, nor the tuna, nor the halibut, nor the after-dinner drinks (by my reckoning, the _only_ joint in the area, other than my house, that's pouring a marc de bourgogne).

Seven of us, two bottles of 2002 Joly Clos Sacres Savennieres that didn't suck, and a bottle of 1997 Calera Reed Vineyard pinot that really, really didn't suck. This after staging a coup d'etat at Firefly. Urp.

Edit: I don't live in the city. See y'all at the Whole Foods in Charlottesville this afternoon? I thought so.

Edited by jparrott
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Another superb dinner last night.

I started with the parmesan and cauliflower soup. By now everyone knows my opinion of Tom's soups and this was another real winner. Nice distinct well balanced flavors. Mrs JPW had the duck confit. She liked it but decided duck confit wasn't really for her. Just meant more for me!

For mains, she had the tuna which was excellent as always and I had the chicken ballontine -- oh my. Maybe a little rich, but absolutely perfect for a cold rainy night. This has jumped towards the top of my list of favorite dishes of the year.

Dessert was the apple tart with some ice cream for Mrs JPW and sorbet for me. Some of the most intensely flavored sorbet that I think that I have ever had. Dessert was finished off with some more ice cream -- banana and chocolate.

A bottle of St Joseph was kind enough to accompany us through the meal and a glass of calvados came along for the dessert ride.

Thanks to Chef Tom, Rissa, Ferhat and the rest of the Corduroy crew for a lovely meal. And as always it was great to see our favorite skater on the way out the door.

PS - We also have now discovered one of the great things in the life of a parent -- a babysitter with her own car!!!!

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Corduroy was on point last night. The Duck Confit appetizer was stellar. The skin had a very peking duck quality, not sure how this was done but it was awesome. But the star of the show.......PORK BELLY! A huge piece perfectly cooked and just absolutely succulent. I'm still full. The only thing that wasn't totaly on point was the service, it was a bit disjointed for the amount of people in the restaurant.

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How should I call Corduroy? I think of it as a slightly more formal Palena, as a slightly older Komi. And as of That Which Never Disappoints.

Last Saturday, the three of us hit Corduroy with every expectation of delight, comfort and wonder. I am happy to report all of them have been fulfilled.

My red snapper bisque reminded me why I love fall. Admiring the red leaves, breaking out new knee-high boots, and oh yeah, enjoying all the gorgeous soups you can handle. The Power Version is a bright star of this collection - hearty, smooth as silk, not overPoweringly fishy - just enough to make you all warm and fuzzy but leave room for more.

Leave room, for instance, for roast lamb and micro goat cheese ravioli.

How does he do that? How do these babies come out so uniformly crisp and gooey at the same time? Does he have a crew of midgets in the kitchen locked away in the room where they do nothing but raviolis? How does he get the cheek to make a side dish shine as brightly as his protein? I do not know. But I am happy they are there, melting, rich, addictive and irresistible.

Oh, there was plenty of more. There was chicken leg stuffed with foie gras, mushrooms and mousse that defeated my inner snob who proclaimed two years ago her eternal boredom with all things chicken. There was lobster salad, all sweet and succulent, barely held together by the slightest of hints of dressing and basil oil. There was chocolate sabayon that I had to guard zealously from my dinner companions who opted for berries and were casting glances of wistful lust at my happy face as I stuffed it with gorgeous, dark, thick chocolate. There was gracious, polished service. There were Rissa and Ferhat. There were sighs of satisfaction from my polished, cosmopolitan friends who were genuinely pleased with food and service and made me happier than ever that Corduroy exists and that friends are to be brought there.

And there was a fantastic lunch of leftovers on Monday making me a subject of bitter envy of my colleagues scurrying around with their Lean Quisines. They darted around me as I slowly arranged a few remaining slices on my plate.

"What you got there?"

"Oh nothing. Just a few things from the weekend. Long story."

Walk back to the office. Close door. Inhale smells wafting from the plate. Remember Saturday night. Feel happy.

Edited by Nadya
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Could someone summarize Corduroy's happy hour for me? So far I've been able to gather that you can order the spring rolls for $4, but is there more to the bar/happy hour menu?

Also, are there any drink specials?

They have their draft beer (Guiness, Smithwick's, 2 others) for $3.

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Ohh, this is all sounding very encouraging. That $4 rail drink may have clinched it. I'm planning a happy hour for the first Monday in December. I've only been in the place once and you guys would be more familiar with the scene there during HH -- could it accomdate 10-15 (maybe not all at once)? We're not noisy by any means, but we won't be whispering, either.

Also, what hours are the specials good?

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Ohh, this is all sounding very encouraging. That $4 rail drink may have clinched it. I'm planning a happy hour for the first Monday in December. I've only been in the place once and you guys would be more familiar with the scene there during HH -- could it accomdate 10-15 (maybe not all at once)? We're not noisy by any means, but we won't be whispering, either.

Also, what hours are the specials good?

You will fit just fine and I believe that HH is from 4-7p.

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Ohh, this is all sounding very encouraging. That $4 rail drink may have clinched it. I'm planning a happy hour for the first Monday in December. I've only been in the place once and you guys would be more familiar with the scene there during HH -- could it accomdate 10-15 (maybe not all at once)? We're not noisy by any means, but we won't be whispering, either.

Also, what hours are the specials good?

we had at least that many for Don's e-gullet goodbye happy hour. You should probably contact Ferhat or Rissa about details...I'm sure they would be very accommodating

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I have tentative plans to be there for HH on Wednesday to fete a friend who is returning to Iraq for another month or so. We will not be testing the corkage policy, prefering to give Corduroy's by-the-glass suggestions a go. :lol:

The Iraq-bound friend was sold on the idea of spring rolls and wine, so I think she'll be bowled over by the rest of the offerings once we go.

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