Ireland

[Ericandblueboy]

The last time I was in Ireland was 1992. It was the summer after my second year of law school. I looked for a summer associate position but didn't find one. I knew if I did nothing I was gonna get killed interviewing for a job as a 3l. So I spent the summer studying abroad, in Exeter of all places. Classes were only Mon-Thurs, so we took off Thursday afternoons and traveled throughout England, Scotland, and Ireland. One weekend, a friend and I took the train to Swansea, boarded a ferry the size of cruiseships, and set sailed for Cork. I had many pints of Guinness as we rocked across the Irish sea.

I don't remember much of that trip. Snippets of memory included bending over backwards to kiss the piss soaked Blarney Stone, eating at a Chinese restaurant where we were served chips instead of rice, and listening to lots of Irish music whiling downing pints of the dark foamy stuff (which lead me to purchase several Chieftains cds).

So it's time to refresh my memory of the emerald Isle. I'm set to take a guided tour, starting in Dublin, then overnighting in Kilkenny, Killarney, Westport, and then back to Dublin. If you have suggestions for places to eat or drink, please post!

[DonRocks]

The last time I was in Ireland was 1992. It was the summer after my second year of law school. I looked for a summer associate position but didn't find one. I knew if I did nothing I was gonna get killed interviewing for a job as a 3l. So I spent the summer studying abroad, in Exeter of all places. Classes were only Mon-Thurs, so we took off Thursday afternoons and traveled throughout England, Scotland, and Ireland. One weekend, a friend and I took the train to Swansea, boarded a ferry the size of cruiseships, and set sailed for Cork. I had many pints of Guinness as we rocked across the Irish sea.

I don't remember much of that trip. Snippets of memory included bending over backwards to kiss the piss soaked Blarney Stone, eating at a Chinese restaurant and we were served chips instead of rice, and listening to Irish music (which lead me to purchase several Chieftains cds).

So it's time to refresh my memory of the emerald Isle. I'm set to take a guided tour, starting in Dublin, then overnighting in Kilkenny, Killarney, Westport, and then back to Dublin. If you have suggestions for places to eat or drink, please post!

I wish I could say I had good meals in Ireland, but I didn't at all. If you're *really* into history, then take this two-hour walking tour which covers a lot of important Dublin landmarks, but is geared for hardcore history buffs (the gentleman on the right, in glasses, was actually our tour guide, and I suspect he knows as much about the history of Dublin as anyone). I don't know how this tour could have been more substantive than it was - most certainly *not* recommended for children because they'll be bored out of their minds. If you can get up to Newgrange, then go - it was the highlight of our trip. Within Dublin itself, the most interesting historical tour (pubs notwithstanding) was Kilmainham Goal.

The restaurants in Kilkenny closed on the early side when I was there, and we ended up at a touristy Italian restaurant that was perhaps our worst of the trip. The Rock of Cashel is worth a detour; when we were there, it had scaffolding on it.

When you get back home, you'll never again want another Irish Breakfast.

[Ericandblueboy]

I wish I could say I had good meals in Ireland, but I didn't at all.

I had heard that the food has improved. I remember eating corn beef and cabbage in Limerick on my last trip. Nothing stood out as being good, but I was just a poor student back then - the money mostly went to pints.

[mleese]

We were in Ireland last May. Thorton's in Dublin (Michelin 1 star) was doing a three course lunch for 25 euro which is a spectacular deal. Unfortunately, I can no longer find any mention of it other website (if they're still doing it). Also in Dublin, we enjoyed our dinner at The Pig's Ear. Not at all related to food, but we had a really good time on the musical pub crawl.

Of the other destinations you list, we only were in Kilkenney and had mostly forgettable pub dinners.

If you end up in Dingle, Out of the Blue is very good (we went one night and made a reservation for the next night as we were leaving).

[Ericandblueboy]

We were in Ireland last May. Thorton's in Dublin (Michelin 1 star) was doing a three course lunch for 25 euro which is a spectacular deal. Unfortunately, I can no longer find any mention of it other website (if they're still doing it). Also in Dublin, we enjoyed our dinner at The Pig's Ear. Not at all related to food, but we had a really good time on the musical pub crawl.

If you end up in Dingle, Out of the Blue is very good (we went one night and made a reservation for the next night as we were leaving).

My hotel is south of St. Stephen's Green and Michelin guide suggested both Thorton's and The Pig's Ear. Money isn't much of an issue but interesting and good food is. Which one did you prefer?

[darkstar965]

I don't know that they're active members on dr.com but even a few sentences/reccs from either of the Armstrongs would be fantastic. Not just for eric but for all to follow. I'm guessing they'd have a couple of wonderful suggestions but know they're running at 150 mph with all the restaurants and family.

You could hit up Chef Armstrong for a few reccs at Society Fair tomorrow like Don suggested

[Sundae in the Park]

I can't believe I remember this, but Chef Armstrong answered the Dublin question in one of Tom S.'s chats back in 2006 (October 18). Surprisingly, it was googleable and here are his suggestions:

Tom Sietsema: This just in, dining suggestions from Cathal Armstrong.

Thanks, chef!

Dublin is really hot right now with world-class restaurants like Chapter One and L'Ecrivain, here are a few newer less expensive options:

One Pico - http://onepico.com/mainsite/index.html

Located on Molesworth Place, Schoolhouse Lane, Dublin 2. Highly acclaimed by all of Irelands top food critics, One Pico is now firmly on the map as one of Dublin's top five Fine Dining Restaurants, where guests can enjoy the vividly ambitious cooking which aims for the stars. The food is quite brilliant and as described by one of the food critics 'The Food Is So Dreamy it is a Knockout'.

award for Best Irish Restaurant this year!!!!!

L'Gueuleton Restaurant

1 Fade Street Dublin 2

Phone 01 675 3708

NO Reservations possible but has reputation as one of best new Dublin restaurants....

Les Freres Jacques

74 Dame Street Dublin 2

Phone (01) 679 4555

Fax (01) 679 4725

Expect traditional French cuisine that is essentially light and seasonal. Specialties include a wide choice of fish and shellfish carefully selected daily from the local market. You will also find a variety of meat and game in season. Les Freres Jacques has a uniquely french atmosphere which is friendly and informal.

Have fun, enjoy the Irish.

Cathal

***

These are really dated suggestions, but if you don't have a chance to talk to him, it's somewhere to start!

[mleese]

My hotel is south of St. Stephen's Green and Michelin guide suggested both Thorton's and The Pig's Ear. Money isn't much of an issue but interesting and good food is. Which one did you prefer?

The food was better at Thornton's but the tap water was virtually undrinkable and the bottled water my wife accidentally ordered was stunningly expensive (I want to say it was 8 euros for a liter). I think they occupy different market segments however. Thornton's is much more of a fancy restaurant whereas The Pig's Ear is more similar to a bistro.

[ol_ironstomach]

The thing about Irish whiskey is that here we're used to encountering the light-flavored volume brands, made with either high proportions of unmalted grain or blended with GNS, so flavorful items like Redbreast or Midleton seem like anomalous rarities. Many of the finest Irish whiskeys are simply unavailable outside of Ireland. When in Dublin, seek out pours of Green Spot - or better yet, the reintroduced Yellow Spot - from Mitchell and Sons, although the whiskeys are actually distilled for them at Midleton. You probably won't see either for sale outside of Ireland, and bottles of Yellow Spot are probably only available at the Mitchell&S shop. I haven't been able to secure a taste of Yellow Spot, but Green Spot is wonderful...the spectrum is very different from Scotch whisky, but it has richness and complexity without the sweetness of Bourbon.

[Ericandblueboy]

I just returned from an escorted tour (called the Pub and Folk Tour) organized by CIE, an Ireland travel specialist. There were a few mandatory stops and entirely too much sitting around on the bus, but the latter is my fault for not picking a better tour (they offer several, of different length and itinerary). The hotels selected were generally well located and comfortable (all had free wifi), at least 3 and some 4 stars in my opinion on a 5 star scale. Irish breakfast (their form of bacon, which is like ham, sausage, potato, baked beans, stewed tomato, mushrooms, eggs, and black and white pudding, plus continental stuff) was always included with the hotel room, and most dinners were provided (but I went out on my own).

I arrived in Dublin on Saturday morning on a direct flight from Dulles. After checking in at the Burlington Hotel located south of St. Stephen's Green, I walked to Matt the Thresher. This restaurant was featured on Bourdain's Layover for their fresh seafood. I ordered a seafood platter (€30.00), which turned out to be way too much food. The platter included Calingford Oysters, Ted Browne Smoked Salmon, Dressed White Crabmeat & Shrimp Salad, Crab Claws & Brown Bread (pictured), served with a Marie Rose sauce and mignonette. The salmon was not particularly smoky or salty but I enjoyed everything else. I believe the crab claws were from Brown Crabs, which are prized for their claws. The afternoon tour included a bus drive around Dublin and seeing the Stiletto in the Ghetto, Quiver on the River (Millenium Bridge), General Post Office, etc. with a stop and tour of the Guinness Factory. For dinner I walked to the Pig's Ear but the whole restaurant was booked, then I tried the Greenhouse and One Pico with no success. By that point I was deliriously tired and just wanted some food before I pass out so I went to a Thai restaurant called the Chili Club. I had a decent soup, a fried filet of seabass, and a side of stir-fried veggies. I love it that veggies are ordered as a side and priced as a side dish.

On Sunday we drove to the Irish National Stud, which included a couple of nice gardens (a Japanese Garden and St Fiachra's Garden), then we arrived in Kilkenny around 3 p.m. Kilkenny is a compact Medieval town with lots of sights within walking distance. I did my only climbing on this trip up the treacherous tower at St. Canice's Cathedral. We stayed at the Kilkenny Ormonde, and I went to the Langton for dinner. I ordered from their 2 course prix fixe menu, with a starter of 3 fish salad and a main of Traditional Irish Stew (pictured). The 3 different fish were all packed into a cylindrical shape and then covered with Marie Rose sauce. If you like cold fish, this is for you. And the stew was more like a broth. I thought it was good but not sure how traditional it was.

On Monday we drove to Waterford too see some crystal making, then the Blarney Castle where I strolled the grounds but didn't bother to climb up for the kiss, before arriving at Killarney. There's really not much to see in the town of Killarney, but all the tours around the Ring of Kerry are based out of here. We stayed at the International Hotel and I ate at Gaby's Seafood Restaurant. Gaby's has no website that I can find but it's probably the most noted restaurant in guidebooks. I had their traditional seafood cocktail (pictured), a mound of salmon, shrimp, mussel, crab, topped with Marie Rose with a lemony zip. This was not the last of cold seafood for the trip but I was really getting tired of them. But the hot seafood entree called Seafood Mosaic (pictured) wasn't much better. It had (steamed or poached) prawn, oyster, mussel, crab claw, scallop, lobster claw, clam, calamari and at least 6 different fish, with the only seasoning being a drizzle of butter sauce. I couldn't eat the whole thing or I'd die of boredom.

On Tuesday we did the Ring of Kerry with a stop at the Skellig Experience for lunch. The tour did not include a trip to Skellig Michael but the place looks like Machu Picchu and I may plan a trip to Ireland just to see it. I had the Traditional Irish Stew (pictured) again, and it was definitely thicker. That evening we went to Kate Kearney's Cottage for dinner, traditional Irish music, and some step-dancing (think Riverdance). The draw is the music and dancing, not the food.

[Ericandblueboy]

On Wednesday, we saw the Cliffs of Moher (impressive), stopped in Galway for a late lunch (I thought I should have some Irish fish and chips and went to a fast food joint - it sucked), and then continued to Westport for the evening. This was a long day of driving on winding roads which gave me a bloody headache for days. At least I had a decent dinner at Mangos (no website that I can find). Notwithstanding its name, Mangos is probably the best seafood restaurant around and I ordered 5 appetizers (all pictured, and I ate pretty much everything). First were some local oysters. I asked for mignonette and they didn't have any. They also don't have cocktail sauce. I guess the local practice is to slurp them plain. So I did and noted the oysters were not particularly briny. Second were clams in a tomato sauce. I would've liked them with more garlic flavor. Third was a delicious creamy seafood chowder with mussels, smoked salmon, cod, and baby clams. Fourth was a duck salad. The duck wasn't cooked to medium rare (more like medium well) but it was nevertheless very tender and enjoyable. Last was black pudding with scallops. I like black pudding in general and these were from some award winner.

[Ericandblueboy]

On Thursday, we took a trip from Westport to Achill Sound to check out the scenary. This was a complete waste of time as our bus driver/tour guide said most people prefer to have 1 night in Galway rather than 2 nights in Westport and we should complain to the tour company. For dinner back in Westport I went to An Port Mór. This is another noted seafood restaurant. My first course was a duo of crab and lobster salad. It was very pretty but the crab meat was shredded into tiny fibers that had no flavor (it's the white mound under the greens). Fortunately the lobster claws were firm and tasty. My second course was pigs cheeks and black pudding (from the same purveyor as Mangos). The pigs cheeks were fatty, tender and flavorful. To compensate for that indulgence, my third course was a vegetarian puff pastry (puff pastry parcels, filled with assorted vegetables and two cheeses). Again, pretty but somewhat bland to a person who likes to go to Flavor Town! While in Westport, we stayed at the Wyatt, which is centrally located but the one hotel that I would say is definitely only 3 stars.

On Friday, we drove back to Dublin with a stop to tour the Kilbeggan whiskey distillery. With some time in Dublin, I walked from the Ashling Hotel as far as Jervis Street. This was the last day of the tour, I was craving veggies and I stumbled upon a Sichuan restaurant on Capel Street just north of Mary Street. By looking at the menu, I knew this was pretty authentic (I've been checking out Chinese joints during the tour and most served chop suey) because they have water spinach, dan dan mian, etc. The food was good so if you find yourself craving Chinese food in Dublin, this is the place to be. They had alot of Chinese clientele so that's another good sign.

I flew out in the wee hours of Saturday morning.

[DonRocks]

We got back from Ireland last Saturday and the cupboards were bare, so I walked to Beuchert's for the first time in what must be close to a year. They seem to have really upped their game. The drinks are perfect as usual, but the food seems to have become more refined. I had the Rockfish Pat describes above it it was truly excellent in every way and at a far higher standard than what I had seen there before. Beuchert's has one of the best open wine lists around, too, but it ain't cheap.

I'm going to put money on the table and bet that you haven't had an Irish Breakfast since you've been home.

[Banco]

I'm going to put money on the table and bet that you haven't had an Irish Breakfast since you've been home.

Actually, I didn't even have one when I was there!

[turbogrrl]

Right. So--- first things first, the Duty Free whiskey shop at the Dublin airport carries Yellow Spot. Also the duty free cart past US Customs to gates 401-406 also had yellow spot. So for now, you don't have to worry about getting over to Mitchell and Sons when they are open and then have to check luggage to get some of the golden elixir home.

Speaking of whiskey, no visit would be complete without a visit to the Dingle Whiskey Bar  (44 Nassau St). It opened in October, and is connected to the Porterhouse Brewing Co. bar next door"”but is a charming oasis of calm and whiskey. On the cocktail front, I followed the labyrinthine directions to get to The Blind Pig, a speakeasy near Trinity and Grafton St. The cocktails were definitely very good, but one would probably be better off eating first elsewhere. The downstairs space (one approaches through a dark alley and a back door) is romantic, and would be fun as a date or with a group of friends. Dining alone with a kindle, though, was just a wee bit sad.

After extensive scientific taste testing, the best scones in the city appear to be at Voila (14 Baggot Street Lower, Dublin 2), though The Cupcake Bloke's (Coppinger row market, next to Powerscourt Townhouse) scones were almost as fantastic and were *huge*. Hansel and Gretel (20 Clare St., Dublin 2), a patisserie near the free Archaeological Museum was quite charming even if it didn't win my scone olympics.

Also in Powerscourt (59 South William St.), Pygmalion Cafe is quite good for brunch.

My meal at The Pigs Ear (4 Nassau St, Dublin 2) was incredible, and worth the two-year wait. (I'd walked by on my last trip, smelled a bit of heaven, but they were completely booked.) Beet-root and pickled onion salad with goat cheese. A succulently tender maple-glazed pork belly with toasted oats, black pudding, parsnips and prunes. And an amazing buttermilk custard with sorrel leaf, cherry sorbet, and winter berries.

Also worth a two-year wait to try were the chocolates and macaroons at Cocoa Atelier (30 Drury St).

Dublin is really not a late-night town. Thus, after getting stuck at work until 21:00 one night, I was ecstatic to be rescued by a pot of ginger tea and an aromatic bowl of pho at Pho Viet (162 Parnell St, Dublin 1). There is better pho in the world, but at 9pm on a cold, rainy, lonely evening in dublin it was pretty amazing.

You can't take it home with you (hell, you can't even take it on the plane if you have a direct flight to the states, thanks to clearing US customs in Dublin), but if you make a stop at Sheridan's Cheesemongers (11 South Anne St., Dublin 2) you can buy some pieces of cheese heaven and make multiple picnics out of it. Some Brin d'Amour, an ash-rind St. Tola raw-milk goat cheese, some mozzarella, biscuits, olives, and roasted tomatoes served as dinner over two evenings. Yes, my hotel room smelled like cheese for days. I have no regrets.

Crispy pork belly and traditional roast duck were both quite tasty at Duck (15 Fade St); the pre-made duck pancakes were a bit greasier than I would prefer but were still enjoyable. The noodles the meats were served on were not to my taste, and I gave them away. The vegetables might be a better choice.

The Guinness pours at The Barge Pub (42 Charlemont St Dublin 2) were quite good and reasonably priced, and it's a very cozy place to accidentally get completely shit-faced if one, say, forgot to have any dinner other than very good pours of Guinness. On the craft beer front, The Brew Dock (1 Amiens St.) is an amazingly friendly pub with an extensive bottle and draft list.

Malahide is an easy train ride from Dublin, and has  a charming waterfront, shopping district, AND a castle. The castle has a pleasant cafe and the outdoor play area is great for kids to burn off excess energy.

If you're in dublin for any length of time, you won't want to have the hotel do your laundry at 4 euros per pair of underwear. Temple Bar Laundry, (13 Aston Quay, Dublin 2) will wash, dry, and fold 5kg of your laundry for 12.50 euros, in less than two hours. Open 8-8 M-F, and 10-6 on the weekends.

[dcs]

Had a really nice dinner at James St. South in Belfast last week.  As described on the menu we had:  Dundrum Crab, Pear Puree, Kohlrabi & Chives; Razor Clams, Chorizo, Cider & Broad Beans; Balinteer Farm Partridge, Celeriac, Elderberry & Crispy Legs; and Steamed Halibut, Butternut Squash, Tarragon & Brown Crab Butter.  Everything was meticulously presented, balanced and tasty.  The service was efficient and quite friendly.  When you are in Ireland with an American accent everyone wants to chat with you (including random strangers on the street). We only had time for one dinner in Belfast, so I do not know how this compares to other offerings in town, but I would definitely return here if given the opportunity.  After dinner I suggest you head on down to the Five Points pub and listen to some young bands play traditional Celtic music with a modern flair and modern music with a Celtic twist.  If that is not enough for you, then head over to Fibber Magees in the backroom of Robinson's Bar for a nightcap and a boisterous band of seasoned players playing amplified traditional Celtic music to an older crowd who still know how to get up on a table and dance.

[dcs]

Belfast duo behind New York Dead Rabbit bar compile whiskey guide to Ireland, by Claire McNeilly, March 4, 2019, on belfasttelegraph.co.uk.

[ScotteeM]

I'm planning 10 days in Ireland, in a few weeks. I'll file a full report, but has anyone been recently? Specifically, Dublin, Killarney, Dingle Peninsula, Galway, and Inish More. So far we're planning Beshoff Brothers for fish & chips (they have GF), Glover's Alley, Restaurant Patrick Gilbaud, and Aqua in Dublin. In Galway we're eyeing Oscar's Seafood Bistro and Loam, and on Inish More we've targeted Joe Watty's and Teach Nan Phaidi. We have a reservation at SOLE in Dublin, but might swap it for Chapter One or The Quays.

Any suggestions would be gratefully considered!

[Marty L.]

If you travel through Cork, don't miss Miyazaki (very small).

[Count Bobulescu]

Dublin's my home town, but I haven't eaten out there much in thirty years, so I won't offer any reccies, other than to note that Patrick Gilbaud has been at the top of the pile for nearly 50 years. Not sure if that's good or bad news. Happy to answer any other touristy questions. 

 

Be aware that the islands generally can be a considerable time sink on a 10 day trip. While you can drive cross country from Dublin to Galway in a little over two hours on the expressway, both the air and ferry departures to the Aran Islands  are close to an hour's drive west of Galway, on a slow road, then another hour sailing. 

In Dingle, be wary of a boat trip to Skellig Michael. I've heard horror stories on radio of boats with no life jackets, and the boat captain actually attempting to justify it. 

 

[DonRocks]

11 hours ago, Ericandblueboy said:

I'll be spending a night in Dublin next month - their hotels cost $400+ per night. 

I hope you aren't taking your kids - IMO, Ireland was *the* worst vacation Matt and I ever took: There's nothing for a 13-year-old to do there.

[Ericandblueboy]

I had an overnight in Dublin because I flew Aer Lingus to Spain.  My impression of Dublin is that it's very expensive.  Prices are generally about the same as DC except charged in Euros, so about 10% higher than DC.  

I ate at L'Gueuleton, and had 3 apps.  L'Gueuleton is a Michelin Plate joint and has been around for a long time.  It's not at all stuffy, but a bistro atmosphere.  I ordered simply and was rewarded with tasty food.  It's a short walk from my hotel near Merrion Square (stayed at the Davenport, a converted bank building I think).

Foie Gras Parfait with Grape Chutney, Mixed Leaves & Toasted Sourdough €13,5o

Pork Cheek Ravioli with Salsify, Sage Butter Emulsion and Crispy Kale €14,5o

Crispy Duck Egg in Ketafi with Duck Bacon and Truffle Mayo €11,5o (this is like a scotch egg).

 

[Count Bobulescu]

On 9/21/2019 at 9:52 AM, Ericandblueboy said:

I had an overnight in Dublin because I flew Aer Lingus to Spain.  My impression of Dublin is that it's very expensive.  Prices are generally about the same as DC except charged in Euros, so about 10% higher than DC.  

I ate at L'Gueuleton, and had 3 apps.  L'Gueuleton is a Michelin Plate joint and has been around for a long time.  It's not at all stuffy, but a bistro atmosphere.  I ordered simply and was rewarded with tasty food.  It's a short walk from my hotel near Merrion Square (stayed at the Davenport, a converted bank building I think).

Foie Gras Parfait with Grape Chutney, Mixed Leaves & Toasted Sourdough €13,5o

Pork Cheek Ravioli with Salsify, Sage Butter Emulsion and Crispy Kale €14,5o

Crispy Duck Egg in Ketafi with Duck Bacon and Truffle Mayo €11,5o (this is like a scotch egg).

 

Without wishing to contradict your claim of expensiveness, I would point out that the restaurants in Dublin, and EU generally, likely see a lot less of the proceeds of your check, than is the case in the US. EU sales taxes (VAT) mostly = 15-33% are always included in the price, and service charges (tips) are sometimes/often/always included, depending on country.

Also, the excise tax on a bottle of wine in Dublin is 700% higher than the combined federal & DC excise tax. $0.50 vs. $3.60.  On a 20 Euro wine in the grocery store,  just under 7 Euro or 40% of the cost via excise and sales tax finds it way to gummint. Consequently, 10 Euro wines have faded into history.

 

[Ericandblueboy]

4 hours ago, Count Bobulescu said:

Without wishing to contradict your claim of expensiveness, I would point out that the restaurants in Dublin, and EU generally, likely see a lot less of the proceeds of your check, than is the case in the US. EU sales taxes (VAT) mostly = 15-33% are always included in the price, and service charges (tips) are sometimes/often/always included, depending on country.

Also, the excise tax on a bottle of wine in Dublin is 700% higher than the combined federal & DC excise tax. $0.50 vs. $3.60.  On a 20 Euro wine in the grocery store,  just under 7 Euro or 40% of the cost via excise and sales tax finds it way to gummint. Consequently, 10 Euro wines have faded into history.

 

Good point.