What Are You Drinking Right Now?

[mdt]

This is a big can of worms, but the most general objection many have to the magazine is that its reviews are geared to a 100-point system in which no wine ever gets below a certain score, no wine gets a 100 (if my information is still correct), and the fiction is propagated that there is actually a meaningful and quantifiable difference between a 96-point wine and a 97-point wine. It sounds like nonsense because it is. (Hugh Johnson has cattily compared this point-system to the grading system in US schools.) Moreover, this "system" drives most average wine sellers to stock their shelves based on its findings, ultimately narrowing the choice for consumers as well and discouraging them from exploring wines that don't "measure up" by this silly scale.

For all its faults, I'd recommend the film "Mondovino" for a more extensive answer, and I'm sure Joe Riley and Jake Parrot can explain this all better than I.

I pretty much ignore the point scores and focus on what is actually written about the wine itself. Other than that is the material in the articles worth the time to read?

[Banco]

I pretty much ignore the point scores and focus on what is actually written about the wine itself. Other than that is the material in the articles worth the time to read?

It's been a while since I last read WS. But the point-system is such a fundamental part of the editors' approach to wine that I think it would skew what they cover and how they choose to cover it. Generally speaking, I learn more (and more enjoyably) by buying a bottle and writing my own impressions of it in my journal.

If you're a wine investor, though, I could see how WS could be useful.

[ulysses]

Velvet Falernum.(via Brian Zippin/Bar Manager@Citronelle). Goes in anything, its like a magic potion.

[jm chen]

A small glass of my latest aquisition: Black Maple Hill 14 year old straight Kentucky Bourbon whiskey. Lovely stuff. <hic>

I'll have to try that one. Last night we broke open a gift bottle of Van Winkle Special Reserve 12-year. Deeelicious.

[brr]

Louisvale 2005 Chardonnay

[deangold]

Due to the generosity of some customers, I got to try some wines off the list I don't get to taste very often....

Poggio di Sotto 99 Brunello di Montalcino

One of the best of the Brunello. Super smooth for a 99, with lots of plummy notes on the nose and palate. Typical earth and spice, but the key here is the borad expansive mouthfeel and lush body. Supplenness without overripeness or super high extraction in a wine this young is rare. Probably my second favorite 99 Brunello. Perhaps the best for drinking now.

Le Salette "Pergole Vece" 2000 Amarone.

Huge, ripe yet not overly raisined. This is a modern style Amarone loaded with spice and fruit. Incredible on its own, I would ahve loved to sit down with it and enjoy it with a bit of blue or an aged reggiano.

[Lydia R]

Rx:

Muga Rosé, 120cc PO x1

Dominion Unfiltered Wheat Beer with a fat wedge of orange, 240cc PO x1

Muscato D'Asti, 80cc PO x1

Sig:

Sip slowly, each in turn paired with wonderful food, head home, elevate feet, smile.

Repeat PRN stress, hunger, fatigue.

Dr. Yi Wah, RTC

(Practice limited to the sacred healing art of the potent potables)

[deangold]

Albert Mann 2001 Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Steingrubler. Big fat unctious, started out sweet and fruity without a lot of gewurz (spice). But as the wine opened up it grew lusher and the spice and characteristic bitter touches came out. Very full, almostoily but balanced with incredible acidity. Tremendious wine! Great with Thai food as well!

[gks_eats_dc]

2004 Two Hands Shiraz Angel's Share. Amazing wine so long as you don't mind them unrestrained! Rich and dark, nose of currants and berries, loads of ripe fruit. Give it a couple hours to open up. It's somewhere under $30 a bottle, and, I've just checked, received a 95 from Parker. I'm not sure it deserves quite such a high mark, but it's a remarkable shiraz, no question. I've got a case chillin' in the cellar.

[deangold]

Suavia Soave 2004- very crisp and clean, with loads of flavor. Sure not your typical soave!

Vigna La Selva Felciaia 1999 100% sangiovese from Arrezzo- matureing sangiovese with lots of spice, subtlety and loads of minerality.

[mr food]

98 Chante Perdrix CNDP. I've happily gone through a couple cases of this bargain Rhone (less than $20pb).

[qwertyy]

Ice water. But I will be drinking a Guinness in T-minus nine minutes.

[alan7147]

Gobelsburger Gru Ve 2005. Intense minerality, notes of citrus and a hint of pepper. I love the Gruners

[deangold]

1991 Kistler Dutton Ranch Chardonnay

Buttery andvery soft, the wineopened with too much butterscothc which blew off quickly to reveal pineapple fruit and a surprisingly lively acid balance. Thewondowof drinkability lasted for only a short bit and thewine faded quickly.

1984Ravenwood cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County

I thought I had grabbed a merlot when I pulled thebottle so Iwas very surprised at the berry richness on the nose till I noticed my mistake. Soft with fully resolved tannins yet the wine was still a litle rough aroud the edges, something I don't think any more time will resolve. We had it with slow roasted porkribs and it was superb. The fruit was blackberry like and quite rich. Good stuff!

[DanielK]

A couple (few) bottles of Harpoon IPA.

Not a great beer, but not bad, and it does a fine job of washing down crappy pizza.

[shogun]

Coke..............................................Good

Coke with half and half.....................less good

.....with maple syrup.........................better

.....with strawberry maple syrup..........no change

.....with coffee..................................bad

[deangold]

Tequila followed by Longmorn single malt.

[edenman]

Coke..............................................Good

Coke with half and half.....................less good

.....with maple syrup.........................better

.....with strawberry maple syrup..........no change

.....with coffee..................................bad

Coke with red wine...........................kalimocho, anyone?

[shogun]

Coke with red wine...........................kalimocho, anyone?

Just so we're clear, these were iterative additions, not seperate trials.

[edenman]

Just so we're clear, these were iterative additions, not seperate trials.

Wow, misread that. I don't know whether to salute you or run away screaming.

(side computer nerd joke: the mythical man month principle applies to mixing drinks, apparently)

[Joe H]

1999 Barboursville Vineyards Cabernet Reserve. Unbelievable. Just unbelievable. A red Virginia wine that I really, really like. Full bodied, fairly complex, beautiful color on the glass-drinks like a $50 California cab. The first red Virginia wine that I have EVER had that I actually liked. And I like it a lot.

My only bottle...............

[deangold]

Iron Horse Cabernets 1985 Alexander Valley

A blend of cabernet sauvignon and franc. Pure cherries in a soft and velvety style. Very lush on the nose and perfectly smooth. Perfect with some cured meats.

[Joe H]

'03 Marquis Phillips #9 Shiraz: if all cough syrup tasted this good!

Edited August 15, 2006 by Joe H

[johnb]

Just for the record, not now but last Saturday nite we polished off my penultimate bottle of 1929 Leoville Las Cases. Yes, 1929, as in 77 years old. I bought 6 bottles at an auction in Geneva in about 1976. Previous bottles have been good, and all have had a bit of tannin remaining. But this is the first I've had in about 15 years, so I was uncertain what would happen, and was prepared for the worst.

Amazingly enough, the cork, which was original, came out in one piece--better than previous ones (I used an Ah So). The wine was still quite drinkable--we waited about 5 min, and as always in such situations I did not decant. It was at its best about 15-20 min. after opening. Still a bit of tannin, good fruit, and big on the tongue. Altogether a good bottle. Techniques have improved enormously in the intervening 77 years, so I wasn't expecting the moon and the stars, but it was certainly enjoyable. Of course, '29 was perhaps the best year of the century until '61. I choose not to think what it could have sold for.

One more to go. It will be making the trek with me to NC next week, to be lain in my new basement/cellar. We'll check in on it some day.

[deangold]

Albert Mann 2001 Gewurztraminer GC Steingrubler

Several previous bottles show so much richness that the spice portion of te wine was underplayed. This bottle shows the wine shedding som eof its baby fat thus allowing the spice to shine: black pepper, ginger and other hot spices. Very full bodied with lots of residual sugar (but it drinks like it has much less) it was a perfect foil for some Korean food.

Albert Mann 2001 Tokay Pinot Gris GC Hengst

Possesed the classic oily texture of really good tokay. Very warm spices like nutmeg and cinnamon with a load of acidity to balance. Great with Thai take out from Ruan Thai

Ridge Home Ranch 2001 Cabernet

Baby Montebello. This is a selection of the softer yet still agable lots of Montebello from the incredible 2001 vintage. Mostly middle aged cabernet (30 year) off the MB vineyards with youger merlot. It started quite tight and acidic. With some concerted swirling, it began to show a syrupy blackberry blackcurrent flavor. Huge body. Quite lush once it opened. Long long life ahead of it which speaks even better for the Montebello.

[Sthitch]

On Monday I was lucky enough to attend a Bordeaux dinner at Matisse. The cost of attendance was to bring a bottle. We started with a couple of bottles of L. Aubry Fils Brut, Non Vintage Champagne, it is a wonderful sparkling wine that is very easy to drink. This is the by the glass champagne that the restaurant sells. With our seafood appetizers we had the 2002 Pape Clement Blanc an interesting white Bordeaux that improved as it warmed. When it finally reached room temperature this was a very complex, and luscious wine. With our first entrée (most people had “Duck Two Ways”) we had had a 1990 Rausan Segla and 1990 Pontet-Canet, both are fairly rare and were showing beautifully the Pontet-Canet was dense, slightly smoky with quite a bit of blackberry, but it was outshined by the Rausan which was a nicely structured wine with a bit of cherry and raspberry. The final entrée was a wonderfully prepared NY Strip with goat cheese mashed potatoes that we matched with 1990 Cos d’Estournel and 1990 Pichon Longueville , both of these wines were big, dense, and lush and filled with plenty of ripe fruit flavors. The slight edge went to the Pichon, as it was not as tight as the Cos. We finished our fabulous meal with a cheese plate and a 1985 Cos d’Estournel. This was the wine of the night, not just because it was my contribution, but everyone at the table agreed, that the nearly perfect body, long finish, beautiful nose, and spicy fruit flavor was superior to the more concentrated 1990’s.

This was a really fun night that was supposed to be a send-off for a friend. Her job fell through so we ate and drank to her anyway. The staff and owner at Matisse are some of the most friendly in the city, and I thank them for allowing us to have the pleasure of holding our small party in their restaurant.

[deangold]

It twere only a small glass, but a custie brought in an 82 Gaja Sori Tilden. Pretty unusual and interesting. Very bad cork but we finally got it open without laving any crumbs in the bottle. Decanted it off the heavy sludge. Very brick color, fully resolved tannins. Oak is the predominate flavor yet the fruit did marry with the massive oak. The tezxture was quite syrupy, like many modern California zins, pns and syrahs. The fruit was lively lasted the 15 or so minutes in the glass before I finished it.

Now for the big question... was it worth the price for what the wine went for many years ago plus the holding time? In my mind... no. If given it blind I would not have picked it out as a Barbaresco. FOr the price that Sori Tilden goes for today, I can buy a bottle of Dal Forno or Quintarelli Amarone and I would do so over the Tilden. For the same money I could buy half a case of Maria di Brun Barbaresco from Ca Rome, almost a case of Moccagatta etc. Or I could buy a bottle of Moccagatta, dinner and a ticket to an opera and have money left over. Any of these combinations would be more interesting to me, and leave me with a barbaresco experience to boot! I cannot see putting up the money for Mr Gaja's stuff!

Last add... Sinice 82 Gaja uses more new oak, more extracted grapes and more extreme winemaking which wold result in even less of a Barbaresco experience!

[tfbrennan]

El Presidente cocktail (rum, vermouth, orange curacao, grenadine) .... Now all I need is a good cigar......

[alan7147]

El Presidente cocktail (rum, vermouth, orange curacao, grenadine) .... Now all I need is a good cigar......

Try the Avo signature series Lonsdale, just smoked one and it was great with a Germain-Robin Shareholders' Reserve

[Sthitch]

Dean,

I am happy to read someone else who does not believe in the Gaja hype. Tonight I enjoyed a bottle of 1997 Rosso Ca' del Merlo from your list. It was my first, but not last visit to your restaurant. I would much rather drink another bottle of that wine than any of Angelo Gaja's wines. I look forward to further perusing your list.

[deangold]

We pulled something from our assortment of odds and ends that have aged far beyond what we thought should be optimal drinking window. In otherwords, we pulled a bottle that we thought should be over the hill.

1975 Cabernet Sauvignon Chateau St Michelle Washigton State.

1975 was the 3rd vintage of cabernet that I generally released when I frist got interested in wines. I recall tasting well over 150 cabs from that vintage, almost all the commercially available examples from Californai and Washington. The St Michelle was not one of the top wines, but it was a good solid performer and, being a supermarket wines, available quite cheap. I recall a $4.50 price tag on it and I think I got it at 20% off. I bought 6 or so bottles nd enjoyed several before the rest were forgottten. The other day we went thru a section of racking filled with lots of odds and ends and I stood up the St Michelle, remembering the last bottle of it we tried maybe 6 or 7 years ago which was hars and had little fruit. Not expecting much, we opened it after dinner last night to have maybe a glass while watching "Les COntes d'Hoffman" starring Bryn Terfel and Neil Shicoff.

The wine opened with a powerful whiff of volatile acidity on the nose that masked an at frist quite vegetal decay-like nose. Then came a bit of hydrogen sulfide. At that point I was not sure I even wanted to taste the stuff, figuring it was quite gone. But the need for alcohol was greater than my prudence (and it was sooooo far to go back to the bastement to get another botle) so we took a sip and were pleasantly surprised. The flavors were of plum with a hint of chocolate and spice. The tannins were perfectly resolved and the wine had a soft mouthfeel. The nose with more air kept on with the vegetal aromas but more and more of a mushroomy forrest floor bouquet came out. It never got to a point where the nose was wonderful, but at least it was not a one note thing any more. The nose remained muted over the course of drinking the wine. BUt the mouth impressions just got better and better. The wine became more expansive and lusher over the hour and a half that we drank it.

Quite a lovely surprise and $3.60 well spent!

[deangold]

1984 Laurel Glen Cabernet Sauvignon

Patrick Campbell is one of the undersung heros of the california wine business. He makes wines atop Sonoma Mountain from his Laurelglen Estate plus a line of purchased wines from Chile under the Tera rosa label. Rids is a purchased grapes project from California. But the gem remains his Laurel Glen Vineyard.

1984 was a hot year in California resulting in fat wines that were said to ahve a short life ahead of them. But the wines grown at elevation on the various mountains of California wine country have astounded me since release and continue to do so as they age. This wine was big and fat. It showed its 20 years on the nose, with loads of mushroom and spice on the initial aroma with blackberry fruit following with some airing after decanting. The mnouth impressions are of fatness and richness yet with unresolved tannins and a gret acid backbone that speaks of years of life ahead. While I could go into the individual characteristic and complexities of the wine, what struck us most was its completeness. In a word is was just yummy. We kept on remarking how damned good it was as we drank it.

[porcupine]

A Manhattan made with Black Maple Hill Rye, Carpano Antica Formula vermouth, Angostura bitters, and Vya-soaked cherries.

I've been unable to find bottled cherries that I like (call me a snob, but I won't eat a maraschino), so a few days ago I took tart dried cherries and placed them in a jar with vermouth to cover. They're nice and boozily reconstituted now. (Also soaked a few in the Carpano, but I like the touch of dry vermouth in the drink.)

[shogun]

'Homemade lemongrass-infused vodka' and tonic. Also made some chile vodka that for once was something less than death-inducing. My infusion losing streak is starting to turn around!

[Jacques Gastreaux]

3 Smithwicks at Murphys follwed by about 3 or 4 tequila gimlets at PX. followed by a Balvenie Doublewood. Pretty polluted.

[Al Dente]

3 Smithwicks at Murphys follwed by about 3 or 4 tequila gimlets at PX. followed by a Balvenie Doublewood. Pretty polluted.

Impressive. Quite a daring combination there.

[Jacques Gastreaux]

Impressive. Quite a daring combination there.

Ah yes, I forgot the old addage: Beer then Whiskey....

[deangold]

Ada Nada Barbaresco Villiero 2000. Old fashioned: earth, mineral, smoke spice. Classic barbaresco. Lovely.

[Xochitl10]

Azami and I just killed a couple of Red Clouds -- Tanqueray, peach brandy, cassis (shockingly discovered no grenadine, called for in the recipe, in the house), lemon juice, and a judicious dash of Angostura bitters. Served with a lemon wheel-and-cherry garnish, drunk on the porch with dogs at our feet. Ah, the life, she is good.

[Sthitch]

I am enjoying my second Algonquin of the evening.

[alan7147]

2001 Ducru-Beaucaillou that has been decanted for almost two hours. A bit lighther and thinner than some of the past vintages I have sampled, but still tasty with hints of black cherry and cassis

[JPW]

maker's mark. a fine accompaniment to Sweet Tarts.

[ol_ironstomach]

Hakushika sake. Yep, the carton brand that Joe Riley stocks. And it's pretty darn good for an "ordinary" sake.

[Sthitch]

Last night I took my parents to Dino, I started with a Blood and Sand, and my wife had a Cyn Cin. The Blood and Sand was nice, but the Cyn Cin stole the show. My wife would only let me have one little sip, but what a fine sip it was.

With dinner we enjoyed a bottle of 1998 Elvio Cogno Barolo "Raverva". The wine started out a little rough around the edges, but with a little air it showed nicely. It was especially good with the Lasagna.

[zoramargolis]

Last night I took my parents to Dino, I started with a Blood and Sand, and my wife had a Cyn Cin. The Blood and Sand was nice, but the Cyn Cin stole the show. My wife would only let me have one little sip, but what a fine sip it was.

With dinner we enjoyed a bottle of 1998 Elvio Cogno Barolo "Raverva". The wine started out a little rough around the edges, but with a little air it showed nicely. It was especially good with the Lasagna.

I had not heard of a Cyn Cin before and it took a bit of a search, but I tracked down the ingredients: gin, Cinzano sweet vermouth, Cynar, Orange bitters and a splash of OJ. I've heard of Cynar, but never tasted it. Is it similar to anything reasonably familiar?

[Sthitch]

I had not heard of a Cyn Cin before and it took a bit of a search, but I tracked down the ingredients: gin, Cinzano sweet vermouth, Cynar, Orange bitters and a splash of OJ. I've heard of Cynar, but never tasted it. Is it similar to anything reasonably familiar?

Dino's version did not have OJ, and it did not need it. As for Cynar, it is different, it is based on Artichoke and is a bitter rather herbal aperitif. It sort of reminds me of a mix between Campari and Green Chartreuse.

[Mark Slater]

As for Cynar, it is different, it is based on Artichoke and is a bitter rather herbal aperitif. It sort of reminds me of a mix between Campari and Green Chartreuse.

Or a slightly more palatable version of Fernet Branca.

[Adam23]

Cracked open my last bottle of Dr. Frank 99 Reserve Cab.

It was divine. Little tannin, smooth as could be and a gorgeous fruity nose. It will surely be missed.

If anyone ever comes across a bottle, let me know.

[cjsadler]

Or a slightly more palatable version of Fernet Branca.

A friend of mine and I acquired (stress acquired) a taste for Cynar in Italy. Once you get used to it, a Cynar and soda is a wonderful thing.

I can't get the link to work for this article on Cynar, but the quotes in it are great:

Asked to say a few kind words about Cynar, Dennis Mullaly, a veteran bartender currently working at Otto Pizzeria, replied, "I can't. It's vile, unpalatable stuff."

"Italians are crazy," says Eben Klemm, staff mixologist for B.R. Guest restaurants, when asked to speculate on the use of artichokes as a beverage base.

I had not heard of a Cyn Cin before and it took a bit of a search, but I tracked down the ingredients: gin, Cinzano sweet vermouth, Cynar, Orange bitters and a splash of OJ.

The Babbo cookbook has a recipe for a Cyn Cin in it, but I've yet to try it.

[zoramargolis]

Dino's version did not have OJ, and it did not need it. As for Cynar, it is different, it is based on Artichoke and is a bitter rather herbal aperitif. It sort of reminds me of a mix between Campari and Green Chartreuse.

I remembered that it had some relationship with artichoke. Can you taste the artichoke?

Or a slightly more palatable version of Fernet Branca.

My British brother-in-law is a connoisseur of Fernet-Branca and other digestifs. I have had occasion to taste some of them. Fernet Branca is the only one whose name I recall. To me, it's rather like something you would smear on your chest to loosen up bronchial congestion. I can't see the appeal of leaving a restaurant after a lovely meal, and having such a medicinal taste lingering on your palate. Perhaps if the food had been vile...