Rome, Italy

[Steve R.]

We've been to Perilli 3 or 4 times now, most recently a little over a month ago (just before they went on vacation end of July).  Glad you found it, as it's one of our favorite places to eat when in the area.  From our experience, the owner and a couple of the waitstaff look more disinterested than they are (& speak more English than they let on). Not sure why or when they decide to be nice but my wife speaks Italian and that breaks the ice with them & they wind up even pretending that they like me too by the time the meal ends  .  At any rate, too late now but, in addition to the cacio e pepe & the carbonara (which we also think are very good), they have pajata, an offal/pasta dish that I wish I could get back home.  And they use the long pasta for this dish.

There's also a place with a nice outdoor area about 5 minutes walk from Perilli in Testaccio named Flavio e Velavevodetto that's worth going to as well.  Our 2 meals there have both been above average and the setting is much nicer.

And, I've heard similar remarks about Ditarambo.  Thanks for the reviews... I'll bookmark them for the next time.

[wisehands]

A year and a half ago, I had lunch at Da Felice .... a trattoria famous for a number of classic dishes one of which is: tonnarelli cacio e pepe. This is a plate of warm pasta that the waiter prepares at your table by tossing the pasta with cheese and fresh pepper until it creates a creamy sauce that coats every strand of pasta - and is simply delicious!

Cacio e pepe is the classic Roman pasta dish ... it means cheese & pepper in the regional dialect.  Chances are good that you will see this dish on practically every menu in Rome.

[mbalaver]

Il Desiderio Preso per la Coda: We were brought here by a Roman business associate of my wife...a small restaurant and art gallery hidden just off the Piazza Navona.  No tourists to be seen, everything in Italian.  Food was fantastic, and not the typical Roman offerings.  We will most certainly visit whenever we are in Rome, and I suggest you do the same.  We started with an excellent soft cheese served with pear slices, honey, and toast.  I had a pasta dish with calamari-shaped pasta and calamari-shaped calamari in a zucchini pesto-like sauce.  Can't comment on dessert.

Your whole post is wonderfully informative -- I will print it out and bring it with me to Rome.  Thanks for taking the time to write that up!  One question:  Il Desiderio per la Coda sounds great to me, and it's not far from our hotel.  Does it seem like a good place for teenagers as well? We'll be a group of 5 with an 18 yo and a 13 yo.

[Josh]

Your whole post is wonderfully informative -- I will print it out and bring it with me to Rome.  Thanks for taking the time to write that up!  One question:  Il Desiderio per la Coda sounds great to me, and it's not far from our hotel.  Does it seem like a good place for teenagers as well? We'll be a group of 5 with an 18 yo and a 13 yo.

The kids would be more than fine there.  Plenty of not-too-out there pasta options for them, and the vibe of the place is the opposite of stuffy and stuck up.  As I said, we were with our 1 year old, and they couldn't have been more accomodating.  Enjoy!

[Choirgirl21]

We ate at Il Desidario last night and both of my dishes and the wine were excellent. Today is my only full day here and my last in italy and I'd like to finish it off with a bang. Having trouble choosing from the many suggestions so any specific places you'd say we should really make an effort to get to? My friends won't want to do anything very expensive so enoteca/trattoria options are better. I thought Trastavere might be fun for dinner, but we could go anywhere reasonably close. We're staying just off Piazza Navona. Would also like to have pizza while here, probably as a late breakfast.

Obviously any place that requires rez is probably out unless you can get them same day. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

[goldenticket]

Forno Roscioli and Forno de Campo dei Fiori: both good options for a "pezzo di pizza", though Roscioli had a broader selection of toppings, as well as a small 'hot table' in the adjoining space. Both had full bakery cases with sweets and breads.

Sora Margherita: as described above, a very cozy and slightly crazy experience. We reserved for the first seating (8:00) and were tucked in a back corner. The waitress suggested she just bring their best/favorite dishes. That sounded good, so we went with it, but in hindsight I might have preferred to look at a menu. We thoroughly enjoyed everything we ate, but it was just a bit too much - especially when another big dish appeared after I thought we'd agreed to "Stop". Jewish and Roman style artichokes, fried baccala, their version of cacio e pepe, fantastic meatballs, and then the beans and sausage. Everything was very good and freshly prepared.  I feel certain I'm forgetting a dish (or two or three), but we definitely didn't need any more than we got!

Trattoria Settimio: another quirky traditional Roman restaurant. You ring a bell to get in and if you're lucky (we were), they'll decide they have a spot for you. The owner tells you what they have on the menu. The food is very simply prepared - if you're looking for fine dining/haute cuisine, don't go here. I felt like I was having dinner at somebody's grandmother's house. The homemade pasta was a great starter, as was the chicken broth. One of the entree choices was 'polpette' - meatballs sounded great, so both of us ordered them. What we got were more like hamburger steaks - or flat meatballs   Very flavorful and juicy, but with no sauce or gravy. Just a case of different expectations and a very good meal all the same. I'm glad we went, though it may not be for everyone.

Dar Poeta: fantastic pizza in Trastevere. Crowded and bustling, and sure to have a wait, but I though it was worth it. The pizza was quite good, with lots of topping options to choose from. Seems like opinions on it vary, but I was glad we went.

Armando al Pantheon:  Just a few steps from the Pantheon, but nothing like the many touristy spots in the area. This is an old school spot, with an interesting menu featuring traditional dishses. Reservations are usually a necessity, though we were lucky enough to be able to get a table at lunch, on the later side. We had tried to walk in the previous night at around 9:00, but were told the wait would be 90 minutes - too long for one of our party.  A shared starter of artichoke and buffalo mozzarella was a showcase for fresh, simply prepared ingredients. For mains, I opted for the osso bucco; the others had tagliolini with baccala stew and the barley soup with mushrooms and truffles. All were very good. Finished off with a pear poached in red wine with plums. Worth a visit (and thanks to flygirl for the recommendation).

More later....

[goldenticket]

One of the highlights of our trip was the Taste of Testaccio tour we did with Eating Italy, a food tour company. We learned a lot about a less touristy neighborhood, met many of the long-time shopkeepers and market vendors, AND ate a lot along the way. Tours in Trastevere are also offered, along with some new cooking class options. Well worth the cost of the tour, in my opinion, and they have a very helpful blog, too.

Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi is in the Jewish Ghetto area and has a fantastic selection of cheeses, some made by the owner. We didn't eat in the small dining area, but did have a very enjoyable 'ore conviviale'. For 6 euros, you can select a wine (by the glass) from several choices, which is then paired with a selection of cheeses. All this happens at the counter in the shop area. Several locals appeared to be making an evening of it, and why not?

Some local places near Campo dei Fiori (where we stayed) that are less touristy than spots on the square, and good for a reasonably priced meal, include:

Ai Balestrari - good pizza and pasta.

Da Sergio - typical Roman, homey menu, with many locals. The grilled meats looked excellent and I enjoyed a pasta dish.

L'Angolo Divino - I didn't make it here, despite the fact that it was literally downstairs. It's a wine bar with a small menu of interesting dishes, cheeses, and cured meats. Elizabeth Minchilli recommends it on her Eat Rome app.

Speaking of that app, I found it worth the few dollars it cost to purchase it. The data resides on your phone, so no internet connection is necessary, and you can search by neighborhood, type of restaurant, opening hours, etc.

[Rieux]

I've posted this in another thread, but I have to share a little hole in the wall place: Machiavelli's Club (horrible name, great food).  We visited it last year, as it was recommended by a Roman friend -- his friend, Mauro, owns the restaurant.  Small - maybe 6 tables.  Not too much in the way of decor or ambience, and in a strange location down an alley near the Victor Emmanuel park.  But, the food and wine was among the best we had in two weeks in Italy.  Mauro and the chef really care about the customers and the food, put together a nice menu, and have fair prices.

Looking later, it seems this place is a hit on tripadvisor, but, as I said, we found out about it from a local.

Edited to add link to tripadvisor, as the restuarant has no website:  http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187791-d1916453-Reviews-Machiavelli_s_Club-Rome_Lazio.html

[jparrott]

Hey! A post from me!

Osteria dell'Arco. Simple food, and the pricing is maybe a Euro more per plate than some places. But precise, precise cooking.

Then there's the wine list.

Plenty of stuff for our naturalista friends, plus a bunch of awesome classics. Pricing? Less than US retail.

Casa Costa Piane Prosecco Col Fondo (which is Dressner in the USA)? 18 Euros. For the whole bottle. And you don't have to tack on 35% tax and tip, etc. Seriously, this list would make even DonRocks and Waitman whimper quietly in contentment.

Alas, I dined alone, so for each dish, it was "tua scelta" to the marvelous sommeliere. And there was all kinds of lovely stuff.

If you like oak, you may want to go elsewhere.

I walked in on a Thursday night, but it's the day after Epiphany, so I imagine there were a few Roman hangovers this morning, for which an evening of excellent food and wine in a genteel atmosphere was not the remedy.

Go.

[astrid]

Restaurants in Rome seem pretty quiet right now. Is it because it's Lent? We could have walked into all of our meals this week, all at very highly rated by TripAdvisor places.

The late February weather has been very pleasant too (perfect for traveling with a light jacket), so I am counting my blessings. The Colosseum an the Vatican were crowded, but the crowds were small elsewhere.

[astrid]

Or maybe we're just eating too early at non-touristy restaurants. We were eating alone at a very nice little restaurant last night at 7:30, and was told that they never get customers before 8:30.

[eatruneat]

Rimessa Roscioli -- We couldn't get reservations at the more established Salumeria, so went with the wine centric Rimessa. Had the five course tasting menu with wine pairing. The food was very good, the wine very good, but together the food and wine pairing were outstanding. Food highlights were a lemon ravioli with caviar and a cod with a light tomato sauce. The wines that were paired with each of the dishes transformed the ingredients.

Tavernaccia da Bruno - Lovey trattoria in Trastevere. Great pasta and a perfect whole roasted fish over potatoes. 

Nonna Betta - Longstanding restaurant in the Jewish Ghetto. Despite the aggressive host trying to get us to sit down (we had already planned on it man!), we had a great experience. We had the Jewish artichokes, Jewish style carbonara, and a ravioli dish. Loved that carbonara. 

Hosteria Grappolo D’Oro - Nice little place in the Campo Di Fiori for pasta. Unfortunately, our pastas were on the salty side but we enjoyed it none the less.

Cul de Sac - Cute little wine bar off of Piazza Navona, where we stayed. We loved it. 

[KeithA]

Anyone been to Rome recently with any recommendations? We are headed there for several days in August. Thanks

[eatruneat]

On 5/18/2023 at 3:57 PM, KeithA said:

Anyone been to Rome recently with any recommendations? We are headed there for several days in August. Thanks

We haven't been back since our trip in 2019 but my cousin just came back and raved about Roscioli, Forno Campo de Fiori, Supplizio, and Bonci. I also still follow Rome-based travel guides Katie Parla, Elizabeth Minchilli, and Gillian McGuire on Instagram and like their recommendations (via Instagram or their websites). 

[zgast]

On 5/18/2023 at 8:57 PM, KeithA said:

Anyone been to Rome recently with any recommendations? We are headed there for several days in August. Thanks

I'm partial to cuisine from Emilia Romagna, so Colline Emiliane is one I'll always go back to - it's a trattoria, so you're never going to see a Michelin star here.  But some amazing plates or bowls of tortellini are something you can't go wrong with.

Beware of Ferragosto - 15 August.  Everything shuts down - it's like Italy turns into a ghost town. Even the restaurants and bars. You'll see increasing closures as you get closer to the date as well.

[KeithA]

Recently got back from several days in Rome. We had some great food and some ok food. The highlights were:

1. Caffe Doria - small, fancy cafe connected to the Doria Pamphilij gallery. Great intro to Rome when your small cafe has a fountain inside it. Lots of fancy cakes and a few types of gelato to choose from plus cafe drinks and also looked like a great place for cocktails (big selection of different gins) - we skipped the cocktails since it was early afternoon. A nice hidden find that we happened on by accident. Very friendly service too.

2. Mastrociccia Osteria Bistrot - near Piazza Navona, very popular place in a busy part of town so I recommend a reservation. Great Roman style pizzas made fresh in the wood oven in the back. We especially enjoyed the rosemary focaccia (more like plain pizza dough). Also had a nice fish and oxtail ragu gnocchi.

3. Two Sizes - really popular Tiramisu place across a tiny street from #2 that serves a few types of small and large tiramisu and cannolis. The large pistachio tiramisu was really good but they only had nutella cannolis that night which weren't great. The filling was simply nutella (which I like but was hoping for a blend with usual cannoli cream). There will be a line but it moves pretty quick. 

4. Fior di Luna -in Trastavere - probably the best gelato in 10 days in Italy. (however the runners up were close, there is just so much good gelato). The flavors here seemed to be fresher and the consistency was creamier but still light which is why I say this was the best. It has won several gelato awards too. Small place with a good selection of 10-15 flavors too. They also have good macarons and cannolis (didn't try the cannolis).

5. Capitoline Museum cafe - the food was pretty good - cacio pepe tonarelli pasta, bresaola with rocket and parm, and spritzes. The best part though is the great terrace view of the city.

6. Antico Forno - in the back of the Trevi Fountain piazza - this is actually a small but fully stocked grocery, deli, and bakery with pizza by the slice. We only got a few baked goods, but wish we had come back for more as the mini sfogiatella pastries were amazing.

One word about gelato - we read a lot of advice to seek out the places where the flavors are covered and not displayed in big mounds as these are supposedly better. We ended up eating both and didn't find this advice held true. What was better was simply researching which places were more popular and which were labeled Gelato Artignale - meaning artisan/homemade vs. mass produced. That being said the worst gelato was still very tasty. The other bit of advice I would share which holds true from prior trips to Italy, stick to the fruit flavors or more traditional nut (like hazelnut or pistacio) or stracciatela (vanilla with chocolate drizzle) as they are usually better. Some places have unusual flavor which may also be great too - I had a really nice coconut in one.

In the separate forums I'll share food from the rest of our trip in Florence and Liguria.