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AlexC

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Rabbit Pot Pie at Les Filles du Roy on Bonsecours Street in old Montreal.

There was a dessert… the epitome of uncomplicated, unforgettable and impossible to replicate.

A not so piddling puddle of steaming maple syrup floating ample cubes of rustic bread deluged with velvety-cool fresh cream. Humble heaven in a stoneware porridge bowl.

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There's a good tapas restaurant, Pinxto, on Rue Roy Est a few blocks off Rue St Denis. There's also a cheese restaurant called La Montee de Lait, which last summer was on the Plateau, but when I googled it just now shows up on Rue Sherbrooke Ouest. That's not far from your hotel. Maybe they moved. Dinner at Au Cinquieme Peche was good last summer; I wrote about it upthread somewhere.

My favorite place is still Camellia Sinesis, but they don't serve food - just tea.

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I've always liked Bonaparte and it's only a couple blocks from Hotel Le St James. The last time I was there over the summer... the wild boar was very good. I noticed a couple across the room getting the tasting menu, and it looked very good and was a good deal, if I recall. We just weren't hungry enough for a 5-course meal that evening... next time.

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Went over the Christmas/New Years break. Tried the smoked meat at Schwartz's.... it was wonderful, enough has been said about it here. Its somewhere in between corned beef and pastrami I would say. Yum. The bagels at St-Viateur are really good, but different from New York. They are sweeter, and due to the wood oven baking have a toasted taste.. at least the sesame ones I had did.

One restaurant in particular I got from chowhound that was AWESOME is le club chasse et peche. One of the best meals I have had. In particular the seared scallops, the piglet risotto with shaved foie gras, was just wow. I really loved my braised pork short rib entree as well.

The other restaurant Europea, was also very very good. This we just kind of stumbled upon as Sundays and Mondays a lot of restaurants are closed. Also a tip, many businesses/restaurants seemed to be closed for the holiday. I think a lot of folks decide to go someplace warm for the holidays. But anyway, we tried the 5 course tasting menu which ended up being 9 courses. The chef kept sending out "gifts" which of course I promptly ate. By the end I think I over did it, but it was a very good deal, and quite delicious.

We had to cut out trip short so we never got to try Au Pied or poutine..... next trip.

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I have to say I thought that Au Pied was one of the great restaurant disappointments of my life. Lots of porky goodness -- check the onion soup -- but otherwise just OK. Felt like I'd wasted my Big Night Out.

I'm with Waitman on this one. Au Pied de Cochon is amusing, but I'd only go there again with a large group in order to plate-pass. The portions are simply too large, and the preps too monolithic. Foie Gras Poutine sounds convivial and lighthearted, but attempting to eat it is anything but.

There's a good tapas restaurant, Pinxto, on Rue Roy Est a few blocks off Rue St Denis.

That having been said, I thought Pinxto was terrific, and might have been the best tapas I've ever had (including in Madrid).

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I have to say I thought that Au Pied was one of the great restaurant disappointments of my life. Lots of porky goodness -- check the onion soup -- but otherwise just OK. Felt like I'd wasted my Big Night Out.

The point of APC is not the subtlety of the cuisine, it's the ambiance. It's a noisy, friendly, rough-hewn place, where people at the next table are automatically your BFF. English is not a problem, especially if it's clear you're not Anglo-Canadian. Yes, the portions are gargantuan, but what the hell, leave some over. Or better yet, pass things around. Is the poutine sinful? Yeah, but you're at a party. And they do offer, in season, a world-beating plateau de fruits de mer. The servers are harried but maintain a Gallic irony. All in all, it's an exciting, efficient way to dip into the foreign culture next door -- and feel part of it. If you want gorgeous food elegantly presented, go to Toqué.

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We were at APdC for a quick pregame meal last weekend (Keithstq - we were probably at the same game. Did you get your tix through the Caps Road Crew??).

I have to disagree with Waitman and Rocks. While many of the dishes ARE gigantic and take some time to work through, you can order intelligently and get some smaller/lighter plates. The waitstaff is some of the friendliest I've ever come across. I'm sure they'd be more than happy to suggest dishes more to your liking and schedule. For example, the braised bison tongue is KILLER but hardly filling. Lisa had the bison tartare and I had the braised tripe on our last visit. Both were excellent dishes and small enough portions that they didn't overwhelm us (wish I could say the same for the boudin noir I had...THAT was filling!!).

I can see how some of their "signature" dishes, like the poutine or duck in a can, are virtually impossible to finish. So just don't order those when you're in a hurry or eating solo. There's plenty of selection on their menu.

StephenB's assessment is dead on. This is isn't elegant frou-frou food. It's a celebration of excess and conviviality. No one is so busy that they can't spend at least five minutes discussing Bob Gainey's free agent strategy or the rumours on the upcoming Arcade Fire release. Sit at the bar and strike up a conversation with the cooks. I can pretty much guarantee they'll start offering up tastes of whatever they're working on within a few minutes. Use your worst Franglais on them, and you'll be best friends in minutes. Commiserate with the person at the stool next to you over how you're going to function with your veins full of duck fat and alcohol. It's all part of the experience.

APdC is our "go to" in Montreal. I would never dream of visiting Montreal without a trip there.

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We were at APdC for a quick pregame meal last weekend (Keithstq - we were probably at the same game. Did you get your tix through the Caps Road Crew??).
I did not, although I did run into several on the way to the game. I was a guest of the league. APDC was fantastic after the game (despite the result). Whomever said it was like attending a party was right on. I enjoyed the experience, and will do my best to get back there during all-star weekend.
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I did not, although I did run into several on the way to the game. I was a guest of the league. APDC was fantastic after the game (despite the result). Whomever said it was like attending a party was right on. I enjoyed the experience, and will do my best to get back there during all-star weekend.
Now you're just making me jealous. I have to pay (through the nose) for any games we go to at the Bell Centre. Enjoy the ASG. I know Ovie's been working on his shootout move!
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I have to disagree with Waitman and Rocks. While many of the dishes ARE gigantic and take some time to work through, you can order intelligently and get some smaller/lighter plates.

I think xcanuck raises an even more important point: It's difficult (sometimes impossible) to make sweeping generalities based on only one visit to a restaurant (e.g., the one I made here: "The portions are simply too large, and the preps too monolithic.")

Cheers,

Rocks.

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I have to say I thought that Au Pied was one of the great restaurant disappointments of my life. Lots of porky goodness -- check the onion soup -- but otherwise just OK. Felt like I'd wasted my Big Night Out.

this place is quite amusing, but if you are not a lumberjack the joke may be on you. after devouring a delicious jar of guinea hen liver mousse with jelly about a year ago, i turned to my super-sized foie gras & feloniously dark and bloody boudin tart and got about three or four bites into it before i started turning, according to my wife, a pale green. i never felt so full in my life, and the prospect of continuing further with the meal was totally impossible. our son complained that his cassoulet reminded him of dirty socks and my wife was put off by a flintstones-sized bone protruding from her pork chop, which she said was just okay, nothing special, despite the dramatic presentation. nobody came close to finishing their food, so there was no dessert. i found the experience frustrating, and i was unable to get anyone to return with me a few weeks ago despite my assurance that with the first meal under our belts we now would know better how to proceed through dinner. my wife says she has yet to digest her first visit.

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I think the reason I was disappointed was mostly because the the restaurant was sold to me as some sort of fine dining establishment, which it definitely is not.

In the right mood, I can see how it would be a great place to visit and seems a perfect place to go with a bunch of rowdies before whatever kind of sporting event they play up there on the francophonic tundra, but I was expecting something different.

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I'm traveling to Montreal next weekend for the first time (unless you have other suggestions for my much-needed weekend getaway). I'll be on my own, and hope you can recommend places that welcome solo diners, particularly restaurants, cafes, etc. where I can eat a nice meal at the bar. Not trying to break the bank, but if there is a must-do experience that will be fun for me, i'll try it! Also, I know this is a food board, but if you have hotel/b&b recommendations, that would be great. Merci!

(Btw, I've read the thread but I'm not sure which places are a good fit for a solo traveler.)

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I'm traveling to Montreal next weekend for the first time (unless you have other suggestions for my much-needed weekend getaway). I'll be on my own, and hope you can recommend places that welcome solo diners, particularly restaurants, cafes, etc. where I can eat a nice meal at the bar. Not trying to break the bank, but if there is a must-do experience that will be fun for me, i'll try it! Also, I know this is a food board, but if you have hotel/b&b recommendations, that would be great. Merci!

(Btw, I've read the thread but I'm not sure which places are a good fit for a solo traveler.)

We stayed in this B&B, which is in a great location and has an extremely friendly proprietor--it is a bit funky, not elegant, but he serves fantastic breakfasts. http://www.bbassin.com/index.htm

I just had an email from my cousin in Montreal, and they are having the coldest winter in recent memory... Not great weather for walking around and exploring...

June may be a more fun time to go to Montreal, unless you are a big hockey fan. In the early summer, there are Jazz Festivals, Dance festivals, Fringe Theater, street fairs--everyone is out having fun, and it's like a big party.

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I'm traveling to Montreal next weekend for the first time (unless you have other suggestions for my much-needed weekend getaway). I'll be on my own, and hope you can recommend places that welcome solo diners, particularly restaurants, cafes, etc. where I can eat a nice meal at the bar. Not trying to break the bank, but if there is a must-do experience that will be fun for me, i'll try it! Also, I know this is a food board, but if you have hotel/b&b recommendations, that would be great. Merci!

(Btw, I've read the thread but I'm not sure which places are a good fit for a solo traveler.)

If you're at all socially minded and have friends who appreciate an excellent sandwich, you might think to pick up a whole brisket at Schwartz's and bring it home (they waved us through customs after giving it the once-over, so I assume it's, ahem, kosher) for low- key but quite tasty beer/slaw/smoked beef luncheon.

Kind of with Zora in that if I had a weekend to plan, I might head south. I hear they have some excellent cooking in Miami.

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Thanks, Zora and Waitman! I hope I will be able to return to Montreal when the weather is warm, but I've purchased my tickets (Amtrak there, plane home), and will have to dress in many layers! I'll check out the B&B and work on a brisket plan.

You can see a lot of Montreal using the underground -- in shirtsleeves.

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I had a phenomenal time in Montreal. It wasn't as cold as I'd expected, and as a native of Chicago, I really enjoyed the snow. Zora, thanks for the B&B recommendation. I loved Boulanger Bassin, and will post pictures of Ken's lovingly-prepared breakfasts. Yes, I had a smoked meat sandwich from Schwartz's deli. No, I didn't smuggle any into the U.S. No time for jail. I went to Au Pied de Cochon, and what I enjoyed more than the food was watching the kitchen in all its glory, doing its dance. I was perched at the bar next to a couple from Amsterdam, and the three of us were mesmerized by the five women and one man who made the magic happen, with seriousness, joy, calm, and the occasional beer. Also, lots of Obama mania around town. Go to Montreal, especially in January.

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I had a phenomenal time in Montreal. It wasn't as cold as I'd expected, and as a native of Chicago, I really enjoyed the snow. Zora, thanks for the B&B recommendation. I loved Boulanger Bassin, and will post pictures of Ken's lovingly-prepared breakfasts. Yes, I had a smoked meat sandwich from Schwartz's deli. No, I didn't smuggle any into the U.S. No time for jail. I went to Au Pied de Cochon, and what I enjoyed more than the food was watching the kitchen in all its glory, doing its dance. I was perched at the bar next to a couple from Amsterdam, and the three of us were mesmerized by the five women and one man who made the magic happen, with seriousness, joy, calm, and the occasional beer. Also, lots of Obama mania around town. Go to Montreal, especially in January.

So glad you had a good time and were able to stay at Ken's place!

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Allow me to piggy-back onto Halloween's request for tips on places that are a good fit for solo travelers. I'm headed to Montreal in a couple weeks (my first time visiting the city) and will be on my own to explore/eat. My flight arrives Wednesday morning and I depart late-afternoon Saturday. I found a great rate at the Chateau Versailles, so that will be my base (planning to use my feet and public transportation to get around the city). The hotel rate includes breakfast, so I'm looking more for dinner recs (assuming lunches will be more snacks to tide me over until dinner). Having read through this thread and the Montreal threads on my "home" board (www.lth.com), I've compiled a list of potential restaurants and am now in the process of narrowing down some options.

The places that I've seen consistently recommended include: Au Pied de Cochon, Schwartz's (planning to hit this for lunch after checking into my hotel on Wed), L'Express (saw a couple reviews that claimed it's getting touristy - true?), L'Actuel, P'tit Plateau, Club Chasse et Peche and Au Cinquieme Peche. I guess my main questions are what places absolutely require reservations and what places are most open to walk-ins (I'm open to early-birding a place if it means a better shot at getting a seat)?

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Allow me to piggy-back onto Halloween's request for tips on places that are a good fit for solo travelers. I'm headed to Montreal in a couple weeks (my first time visiting the city) and will be on my own to explore/eat. My flight arrives Wednesday morning and I depart late-afternoon Saturday. I found a great rate at the Chateau Versailles, so that will be my base (planning to use my feet and public transportation to get around the city). The hotel rate includes breakfast, so I'm looking more for dinner recs (assuming lunches will be more snacks to tide me over until dinner). Having read through this thread and the Montreal threads on my "home" board (www.lth.com), I've compiled a list of potential restaurants and am now in the process of narrowing down some options.

The places that I've seen consistently recommended include: Au Pied de Cochon, Schwartz's (planning to hit this for lunch after checking into my hotel on Wed), L'Express (saw a couple reviews that claimed it's getting touristy - true?), L'Actuel, P'tit Plateau, Club Chasse et Peche and Au Cinquieme Peche. I guess my main questions are what places absolutely require reservations and what places are most open to walk-ins (I'm open to early-birding a place if it means a better shot at getting a seat)?

L'Express doesn't seem like the sort of place where you would need reservations, but it filled up fast when we were there this winter, and it would be a good idea to have them. the food was down-to-earth french cooking, good and hearty, everyday fare. we were there and noticed an american family a couple of tables away, but it seemed to me about as french as you can get in montreal and a nice place to meet the locals. i wouldn't go to schwartz's and au pied de cochon on the same day. the latter was also packed, and i would make reservations. lemeac is not on your list, but worth visiting, the cooking more refined than l'express; it was also crowded with locals, and i would suggest making a reservation, although i don't know if it's absolutely necessary; we have gone there twice -- on new year's eve (when surprisingly many restaurants in the city are on holiday).

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Try Camellia Sinensis , a teahouse in the Latin Quarter, for a nice pick-me-up. Also, if you're the kind of person who digs farmers' markets and you're in the neighborhood, check out Marché Jean Talon.

Thanks for the tip on Camellia Sinensis. And yes, I am the type and definitely plan to check out Marche Jean Talon!

Giant Shrimp - thanks for your response as well. Don't worry, I know my limits and will definitely schedule Schwartz's and APdC for different days.

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The places that I've seen consistently recommended include: Au Pied de Cochon, Schwartz's (planning to hit this for lunch after checking into my hotel on Wed), L'Express (saw a couple reviews that claimed it's getting touristy - true?), L'Actuel, P'tit Plateau, Club Chasse et Peche and Au Cinquieme Peche.

FWIW, I have to say that our visit to Au Cinquième Péché last summer fell quite flat compared to previous visits. Not sure why, but we didn't encounter either the owner or the servers we'd had in the past. Perhaps it was their night off? In any case, I thought it was beyond what could be attributed to a normal level of inconsistency, so they're off my recommendation list for the moment. There's no F1 race in Montréal this year; it may be a while before I can give them another spin.

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Just noticed ol_ironstomach's post about the absent owner at APdC. They've opened a sugar shack outside of Montreal so Picard may be spending much of his time there. They'll be making their own maple syrup products, as well as raising pigs for the restaurant.

For the record, I was there a couple of weeks back and it was everything I remember. Punk rockers doubling as cooks and servers and pulling it off. I went solo to the bar and cleaned off a plate of sliced roast piglet shoulder, pickled and braised tongue, foie gras hamburger and frites (fried in duck fat, natch). I'm still trying to lose the weight I gained at that sitting.

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I just went up to Montreal for the 4th of July Weekend, and found a couple new places worth checking out.

First up, a challenger to La Banquise for great poutine - a cafe called Maamm (or MA-Am-M) Bolduc. It's a neighborhood restaurant serving burgers and beers, but an interesting poutine menu. We had a beef Bourguignonne poutine which was incredible- meat sauce with red wine, mushrooms and onions.

There was also a 3 cheese poutine with curds, blue cheese and chevre that was also very decadent.

Pics

4351 De Lorimier Av

Montreal, QC H2H 2B3

(514) 527-3884

Another great find was Restaurant DNA in Old Montreal- they serve a Quebecois take on Italian and Mediterranean food. The actual location has a nice design, and they have a large wine selection. We opted for the tasting menu. Highlights included: a charcuterie plate of meats cured in-house (mortadella, fennel sausage, lardons), veal tartare, lamb carpacchio, a foie gras ravioli with, inside it, a raw egg and lamb tongues, and white chinook salmon on lentils with a veal brain bernaise.

Everything was seasonal and local, and prices were reasonable.

Pics

355 Marguerite D_Youville

Montréal, QC H2Y 2C4, Canada

(514) 287-3362

Certainly no trip would be complete without a visit to Au Pied de Cochon- the plateau de plateau was spectacular. We also had the lobster roll with foie gras. Another great meal there.

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In his online chat today, Tom Sietsema posted this excellent dining guide for Montreal. He says "One of the best guides to Montreal comes courtesy of my friend Francois Furstenberg, a professor of American history at the University of Montreal (and the son of local baker Mark Furstenberg, my long-time friend). " I love the personalized Google Map that comes with it.

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I went to Montreal for a bachelor party over the MLK weekend, which was a blast. I finally got to visit APDC, which was fantastic. I love the fact that the portions are huge and and general felt really accessible. I shared a pigs head which was really cool, though I prob would not order it twice, there is just so much worth having on the menu. The chicharrones and fries are heavenly fried in duck fat and must be had.

We also did the traditional steak thing at Moishe's which was fine, nothing earth shattering. I tried to get into La Banquise for poutine but it was jam packed, and Joe Beef which was too far from where we were spending our time. They will have to wait till next time. This time around though before I went home, I picked up a dozen bagels from St-Viateur cafe and a nice 4 pound chunk of smoked meat for home.... Checked it on the plane. Bagels are gone already but the brisket is waiting for a special day to break out. :angry:

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Went up to Montreal over 4th of July weekend with a bunch of cousins for our annual Au Pied De Cochon dinner.

Since there were 6 of us, we ordered the Tête de Cochon for 2- a whole roasted pig's head- our came with a lobster stuffed in it's mouth and then the pig's tongue was stuck on the front of the lobster. Then, they took APdC mashed potatoes (loaded with cheese curds) and draped it over the pig's eyes like a blindfold. The meat just peeled off the pig's face. We tore through everything including the eyeballs and the very tasty brain which reminded me of egg yolk or firm tofu.

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A real find when we were up there was Le Quartier Général (1251 Gilford, (514) 658–1839), a recently opened bistro that is BYOB, serving reasonably priced seasonal food. We had a great beef tartare, escargot cooked with Bayonne ham, and a delicious Stanstead rabbit. Great desserts, too. They have sittings at 6 pm and 9 pm each night.

pics

We went to a great coffee place- Cafe Myriade, located near the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts.

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Went up to Montreal over 4th of July weekend with a bunch of cousins for our annual Au Pied De Cochon dinner.

Since there were 6 of us, we ordered the Tête de Cochon for 2- a whole roasted pig's head- our came with a lobster stuffed in it's mouth and then the pig's tongue was stuck on the front of the lobster. Then, they took APdC mashed potatoes (loaded with cheese curds) and draped it over the pig's eyes like a blindfold. The meat just peeled off the pig's face. We tore through everything including the eyeballs and the very tasty brain which reminded me of egg yolk or firm tofu.

pics

looking at the photos, and from what i know about this restaurant, i am extremely impressed that six of you were able to eat this much food.

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looking at the photos, and from what i know about this restaurant, i am extremely impressed that six of you were able to eat this much food.

We asked our waiter to let us know if we were ordering too much. I was worried we were ordering too much, but he told us that our order was adequate, and we did indeed finish everything without feeling overwhelmed.

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We asked our waiter to let us know if we were ordering too much. I was worried we were ordering too much, but he told us that our order was adequate, and we did indeed finish everything without feeling overwhelmed.

Thank you for that picture of the pigs head. I've never seen anything plated like that. I really really want to eat at that restaurant.

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Going to Montreal for 3 nights in July. Would I be insane to eat at Au Pied de Cochon twice? I would love to order the seafood platter (since my wife won't partake, I'll have to gobble it up by myself) and that'll probably be all I can eat for 1 night. So I have to go back another night? How far in advance can one make reservation? What other food/restaurant should I hit up? I'm really interested in eating loads of foie gras and fruits de mer. The third thing I might want is sea urchin pasta.

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Going to Montreal for 3 nights in July. Would I be insane to eat at Au Pied de Cochon twice? I would love to order the seafood platter (since my wife won't partake, I'll have to gobble it up by myself) and that'll probably be all I can eat for 1 night. So I have to go back another night? How far in advance can one make reservation? What other food/restaurant should I hit up? I'm really interested in eating loads of foie gras and fruits de mer. The third thing I might want is sea urchin pasta.

I go every year with my cousin in July- we've already booked our table. We are always surprise when people eat at APDC and don't do it family style. The seafood platter is awesome. You might be able to tackle it by yourself and still eat something else. It's like eating steamed crabs- you are still hungry afterwards. Their waitstaff is also good about telling us we've ordered too much food.

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I go every year with my cousin in July- we've already booked our table. We are always surprise when people eat at APDC and don't do it family style. The seafood platter is awesome. You might be able to tackle it by yourself and still eat something else. It's like eating steamed crabs- you are still hungry afterwards. Their waitstaff is also good about telling us we've ordered too much food.

Made my reservation yesterday by e-mail (for Sun 7/3) and got a confirmation call in the afternoon. I was under the impression that APDC is rather unresponsive and prone to losing reservations. Should I be concerned? Should I reconfirm my reservation? Sat. night I'm thinking about doing DNA and Monday night I'm thinking about Le Local. If you have better suggestions for Sat. or Mon., please let me know. We're staying at the Marriott Chateu Champlain next to Bonaventure station - no car, so no long rides.

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Made my reservation yesterday by e-mail (for Sun 7/3) and got a confirmation call in the afternoon. I was under the impression that APDC is rather unresponsive and prone to losing reservations. Should I be concerned? Should I reconfirm my reservation? Sat. night I'm thinking about doing DNA and Monday night I'm thinking about Le Local. If you have better suggestions for Sat. or Mon., please let me know. We're staying at the Marriott Chateu Champlain next to Bonaventure station - no car, so no long rides.

Too funny- we are eating at APDC the same evening- I think my reservation is for 6 pm- They are fine with booking this far out, but you might want to confirm a few weeks out. I've posted about my favs in this thread. We are looking to try out some new places this year.

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Too funny- we are eating at APDC the same evening- I think my reservation is for 6 pm- They are fine with booking this far out, but you might want to confirm a few weeks out. I've posted about my favs in this thread. We are looking to try out some new places this year.

Our reservation is for 5 p.m. Gotta make sure it's early enough so the baby doesn't get tired and cranky.

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