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"Heat" by Bill Buford


Barbara

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Good piece as well by Bill Buford this week in the New Yorker about what to do with a whole pig, well, sow, for all those who want to Zieboldly rush forth where shoats fear to tread, or who want to get their Polyface all up into it at the market.

I read this and wondered if a post was warranted. Thanks for bringing this up, Michael:

The New Yorker

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Buford is all over the place right now.  I just read this review of his book this morning.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/140004120...glance&n=283155

(and I just became a ventworm!)

Congratulations on your new lowly status!!!

Buford, as editor at Granta as it reached the pinnacles of its "theme-ness", has always been all over the place as far as I'm concerned.

Any one who wants to experience the timelessness of truly great timely and topical writing--as well as to atavistically experience fantastic breakthrough-at-the-time writing--should go to Kultura's on Connecticut Avenue (probably the only good non-restaurant thing having anything to do with Connecticut Avenue) if they have not closed yet and select randomly from the large collection of back issues of Granta.

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Buford, as editor at Granta as it reached the pinnacles of its "theme-ness", has always been all over the place as far as I'm concerned.

Any one who wants to experience the timelessness of truly great timely and topical writing--as well as to atavistically experience fantastic breakthrough-at-the-time writing--should go to Kultura's on Connecticut Avenue (probably the only good non-restaurant thing having anything to do with Connecticut Avenue) if they have not closed yet and select randomly from the large collection of back issues of Granta.

I used to love Granta!

Did Buford write "Fat Girls in Des Moines"? I swore when I read that I'd read anything by this guy. Can't say I've lived up to that, however ...

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That piece he did on working the pasta station at Babbo was classic.  That's gotta be included in this book (originally it appeared in the New Yorker).

True indeed. That article still gives me cold sweats in the night. Harrowing, truly harrowing--both the impossibility of his station, and the ordeals of Battali's start.

One thing that came through, which really stays with me, is the humble (to say the least) nature of his first joint. In fact that seems to be true of all the New York greats--they get a crappy start-up in a whatever location and earn their chops by dint of hard work, talent and dedication, and then they move on into greatness.

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Any one who wants to experience the timelessness of truly great timely and topical writing--as well as to atavistically experience fantastic breakthrough-at-the-time writing--should go to Kultura's on Connecticut Avenue (probably the only good non-restaurant thing having anything to do with Connecticut Avenue) if they have not closed yet and select randomly from the large collection of back issues of Granta.

1) Kultura closed for good on April 25. Shame.

2) Some nice people live on Connecticut Avenue. There's also Politics and Prose.

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I used to love Granta!

Did Buford write "Fat Girls in Des Moines"? I swore when I read that I'd read anything by this guy. Can't say I've lived up to that, however ...

Negative. "Fat Girls in Des Moines" (my favorite piece from the old Granta travel volume) was by Bill Bryson, and reappears later as a chapter in one of his novels about the US...probably I'm A Stranger Here Myself.

Yeah, I also thought about finding and riding the escalator at Merle Hay Mall.

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That piece he did on working the pasta station at Babbo was classic.  That's gotta be included in this book (originally it appeared in the New Yorker).
It was one of the best things in the New Yorker in the past five years. I'll be picking up "Heat" on my next trip to the bookstore.

Maybe, if enough people read it, we could have that book discussion at my place that we bandied about months ago?

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Negative.  "Fat Girls in Des Moines" (my favorite piece from the old Granta travel volume) was by Bill Bryson, and reappears later as a chapter in one of his novels about the US...probably I'm A Stranger Here Myself.

Yeah, I also thought about finding and riding the escalator at Merle Hay Mall.

Oh yeah, and I've read tons of Bryson :) thanks for the clarification. I'll still read this book, though.

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It was one of the best things in the New Yorker in the past five years.  I'll be picking up "Heat" on my next trip to the bookstore.

Maybe, if enough people read it, we could have that book discussion at my place that we bandied about months ago?

Don't go too quick as it comes out May 30th.

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Negative.  "Fat Girls in Des Moines" (my favorite piece from the old Granta travel volume) was by Bill Bryson, and reappears later as a chapter in one of his novels about the US...probably I'm A Stranger Here Myself.

He used this in Lost Continent. It had a great opening line that I've never forgotten: "I come from Des Moines. Somebody had to."

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I think Bill Buford wrote that book "Among the Thugs" which was about soccer hooligans in England in the 80's. If any of you out there are into soccer/football, its a good read. I will be sure to check this book out when it hits the shelves.

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It was one of the best things in the New Yorker in the past five years. I'll be picking up "Heat" on my next trip to the bookstore.

Maybe, if enough people read it, we could have that book discussion at my place that we bandied about months ago?

Received my copy of Heat in the mail today and the first 50 pages have been entertaining and I cannot wait to continue.

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How was the talk? Was Buford a character or what?

The talk was entertaining and he comes across just like he does in the book. He started by discussing how the project started before reading some passages (with emotion) and talking about them in some detail.

From what he said I think he is really going to go to France. (For those that have read the book you will understand. For those that haven't (yet), you will.) I don't know how his wife puts up with it.

Camille -- Where did you disappear to after you said hi?

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Received my copy of Heat in the mail today and the first 50 pages have been entertaining and I cannot wait to continue.

I got it from the library over the weekend and am up to about page 50 now. I always thought Mario Batali was a complete dork. What the hell was I smoking and how come I wasn't with him while smoking it?

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I got it from the library over the weekend and am up to about page 50 now. I always thought Mario Batali was a complete dork. What the hell was I smoking and how come I wasn't with him while smoking it?
No no no. He always gave off a hedonist vibe under the pedantry, at least to me.

MoCo has a long waiting list for this. I may have to break down and buy it.

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Am loving "Heat"! His writing rings true of everything I have heard about Mario and his lifestyle. I highly recommend it. Great and engrossing airport or evening reading. It will having you dreaming not of sugarplums and fairies but magnums of wine and branzino. :unsure:

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I just finished Heat and found the chapter about Marco Pierre White to be the most interesting thing in the book, with Buford's sojourns in Italy coming in second - in particular about his quest to learn the origins of egg in pasta and his relationship with the Maestro.

Mario sounds like a fun dude to do a line with, but after reading Heat I find myself with a lessened desire to check out Babbo or any of his other establishments - with the possible exception of Casa Mono because Spanish food roolz.

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polenta has never been an absolute favorite of mine, but i am going to follow buford's suggestion to cook it for a long time until there is some carmelization going on. (the next time i have a few hours to spend in the kitchen.) also, slow cooking beef in chianti in the oven overnight sounds like fun, and i had never thought of this before, but maybe i should start reusing the pasta water. (i use some of it to emulsify sauces.)

there seems to be a fair amount written these days on the importance of what is fed to the animal, and feeding grass to cattle, which is what they are supposed to be eating, is only now rising into my consciousness. (my wife says ruth's chris advertises that its beef is corn-fed, which is a laugh because whose beef isn't these days, one of the bad consequences of becoming corn-centric during the nixon administration, from another book.)

you may want to throw your batali cookbook in the trash after reading what burford has to say.

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polenta has never been an absolute favorite of mine, but i am going to follow buford's suggestion to cook it for a long time until there is some carmelization going on. (the next time i have a few hours to spend in the kitchen.)
Yeah, I just read this part this afternoon and have been thinking about polenta every since--and polenta isn't one of my favorite foods by a long shot. I wonder if I have the right type of corn meal in the cabinet? :unsure:
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My father got me this book for Christmas, and I read it in two days. Some observations:

1. The author is crazy. How his wife put up with his meanderings is beyond me. However, I fully expect someone to put up with me in the same manner. So there.

2. Batali is even crazier. I'm 31 and incredibly depressed knowing I could never keep up with a man 10(?) years older than me and double my size. The amount of wine he consumes is insane.

3. The butcher guy is the craziest of them all. I'm wondering if there's a food industry theme here. :P

Great book, easy read, interesting insight into the restaurant scene (found those parts to be my favorites). I agree with another poster though -- I've not got any real desire to try Babbo now -- the mystique is gone (then again, I'm the only person on earth who didn't like Esca). Wish I had been able to try Po, though.

Hope everyone had a great holiday!

Anne

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2. Batali is even crazier. I'm 31 and incredibly depressed knowing I could never keep up with a man 10(?) years older than me and double my size. The amount of wine he consumes is insane.
The wine quantities they were throwing back were very hard to believe. Batali and Bastianich can drink a case of wine between them in one night? I think during the bender that Buford and Batali go on at the end of the book they each polish off at least 3 bottles.
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Is there anyone that would like a hard back copy of the book? I finished mine some time ago, and it is sitting on the shelf taking up space. The wife already read it, so it is looking for a new home. It is in perfect condition, you'd think you pulled it off the shelf at B&N, Borders, etc. You could even re-gift it.

I can meet M-F 9~5, near White Flint/North Bethesda.

PM me to set a date.

(did I mention the book is free for DR readers?)

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It is in perfect condition, you'd think you pulled it off the shelf at B&N, Borders, etc. You could even re-gift it.
MY copy, along with my edition of Twinkie Deconstructed, was dropped into the water off the Jersey Shore during a fishing trip and then left to dry over several days/weeks. You can imagine what IT looks like.
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