New York Times Food Section

[Hannah]

Strangely enough, it is in today's food section in our local paper - On Capitol Hill, A Vote for Edibility and the Environment, by Jane Black. The Post manages to cover the story without the usual Burros attitude toward DC - for someone who apparently still lives here, she sure doesn't appear to like us very much.

[Anna Blume]

:blush: Betrayed my own tendency to check the food section of the NYT first. Glad to see the same subject covered here, too, so thanks for the link, Hannah. I don't see Burros as condescending, though.

[Hannah]

I don't see Burros as condescending, though.

You must have missed her previous salvo then.

[xcanuck]

NY Times article by Mark Bittman puts forth the opinion that, like our fuel consumption, we (North American) society consumes more than our fair share of meat and that continued consumption only means ill for the entire world. He states "If price spikes don’t change eating habits, perhaps the combination of deforestation, pollution, climate change, starvation, heart disease and animal cruelty will gradually encourage the simple daily act of eating more plants and fewer animals." The same argument is often made to justify increased fuel taxes. The comparison is interesting.

The one thing I don't think he expands on enough is the role of the fast food industry in this. The fact that one can purchase a half-pound burger for a couple of bucks within seconds at the drive-thru window must play a greater role than the home cook who decides to put meat on the dinner table more often than previous generations did.

[Anna Blume]

The one thing I don't think he expands on enough is the role of the fast food industry in this. The fact that one can purchase a half-pound burger for a couple of bucks within seconds at the drive-thru window must play a greater role than the home cook who decides to put meat on the dinner table more often than previous generations did.

Good point, or I should be frank in saying I was thinking about fast food myself when reading the article and putting it in the context of both Eric Schlosser's book and Pollan's continuing lament about the consequences of how little Americans pay for food.

It is interesting how the one food category we associate most with affluence now has contradictory connotations.

Cf. Michael Landrum's desire to democratize the steakhouse--or make it more accessible, too.

On the other hand, vegetarianism smacks of a certain kind of elitism nowadays, and not just as the diet of choice among Veggie Teens, or an ally of the meat-spare diets of what Italians call "la cucina povera".

[Marcus Aurelius]

Enclosed is an article that discussed Gary Paul Nabhan's book, “Renewing America’s Food Traditions: Saving and Savoring the Continent’s Most Endangered Foods” (Chelsea Green Publishing, $35).

Nabhan catalogued at least 1,080 of endangered American plants and animals.

He encourages people to eat the endangered plants and animals to gain awareness. He believes "in engaging nursery owners, farmers, breeders and chefs to grow and use them."

"An Unlikely Way to Save a Species: Serve It for Dinner" By KIM SEVERSON

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/04/30/dining/3...;pagewanted=all

[CrescentFresh]

Some of McGee's science meets foodstuffs.

[edenman]

Something is fishy around here.

[monavano]

NBC 4's The Fish Switch investigation Nov. 2007

http://www.nbc4.com/consumer/14489326/detail.html

[mdt]

NBC 4's The Fish Switch investigation Nov. 2007

http://www.nbc4.com/consumer/14489326/detail.html

This is a great excuse,

Pier 7 says it cooks up four to five different white fishes, and its waiter got confused and served us the wrong one.

, yeah blame it on the waiter. Please.

[SrtaJRosa]

...

[cheezepowder]

There's an article in the NY Times today about the increasing number of gelato shops. It mentions Dolcezza (Georgetown and Bethesda). "Move Aside, Frozen Custard, and Make Room for Gelato." We also have Boccato, the new gelato place in Clarendon. So at least DC is more ahead of this trend than it was for cupcake and frozen yogurt shops.

[Michael Landrum]

Shocking revelations from restaurant insiders provide breakthrough intelligence in unanswered suspicions: Views of Real Americans Strangely Ignored.

Will diet prove to be the ultimate test of true allegiance as immigrants claim recondite ties?

Impact on public ping pong, other American freedoms, still uncertain.

[JLK]

12-Year-Old’s a Food Critic, and the Chef Loves It

[Keithstg]

Article on Rocco in today's New York Times

Rocco's publicist must work overtime. My favorite part of the article - 'the “Rocco Gets Real” book (Meredith, $19.95) features recipes that often hinge on brand-name ingredients like a can of Progresso lentil soup, a jar of Heinz pork gravy or a cup of Splenda. "

Ugh.

[jdl]

Rocco's publicist must work overtime.

Doubtful that any publicist would have loved this story as the thrust of the piece was hardly flattering/favorable: Rocco could flat-out cook, and then he stopped and made a fool of himself - and boy, what a waste of talent that was.

[zoramargolis]

Doubtful that any publicist would have loved this story as the thrust of the piece was hardly flattering/favorable: Rocco could flat-out cook, and then he stopped and made a fool of himself - and boy, what a waste of talent that was.

All publicity is good if the subject's goal is celebrity--which is certainly true of Rocco DiSpirito.

[Demetrius]

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/14/dining/1...l?_r=1&8dpc

[edenman]

Granville Moore’s, where people line up on weekend nights to work through big, steaming bowls of large mussels simmered with bacon and wine, and dip perfect hot fries into curry mayonnaise. The place also has what might be the best Belgian beer list in the district.

Um, sorry, but no. I love the list at GM's, but it doesn't hold a candle to Brasserie Beck in the beer list department. Food might be better, though

[B.A.R.]

Chef Clark appears to be very busy.

[zoramargolis]

Sounds like she's looking to duplicate Michael Landrum's meat and three concept in Anacostia.

[ol_ironstomach]

New analysis confirms ancient chocolate use north of Mexico, some 900 years ago. NYT story.

[lizzie]

http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/08/05/sam-sifton-is-named-restaurant-critic-for-the-times/?hp

[hungry prof]

Looks like the Times has thrown in the towel on the effort to have an unrecognized food critic. Pictures of this guy are readily available, and according to Eater, he's well-known in NY dining circles. Gawker is already having a disguise contest for him.

[leleboo]

Actually from the Sunday Magazine, today's online Times has an "interactive" feature: "A guide to bars, restaurants, cafes and a basketball court frequented by the 20-somethings working in the Obama White House." Mouse-over each one and get a little blurb/mini-review, pictures, and links to websites.

Alas, as with so many pieces on DC in the NYT, this feels like anything but news. It doesn't really seem like the choices are any different from those of the non-administration 20-somethings around town, does it?

(The related article feels just as tired, even calling out the (so obvious it's becoming trite to mention them) similarities to The West Wing on the first page. Which is about when I stopped reading.)

[dcs]

Not in the Food section, but could have been.

For Jobless Chefs, a Helping Hand

[dcs]

Your next meal may be prepared by Cheech & Chong. Inhale here.

[Tujague]

A nice notice for Kushi, Againn, Rasika, and Taylor Gourmet, but the silly premise about the changing face of "K Street dining" once again shows the woeful ignorance of NY Times writers about DC.

[DonRocks]

A nice notice for Kushi, Againn, Rasika, and Taylor Gourmet, but the silly premise about the changing face of "K Street dining" once again shows the woeful ignorance of NY Times writers about DC.

The Changing Face of K Street! Jack's Boat House gets second vending machine!

[DaRiv18]

once again shows the woeful ignorance of NY Times writers about DC.

The writer of the article, Sarah Wildman, apparently lives in DC. Actually, I agree with her evaluations of DC geography more than of the restaurants.

[dcs]

I tend to avoid restaurants that do not take reservations; except at lunch, but only if I am eating early. I also do not wait on lines to get into bars. Finally, I do not accept rides from strangers.

[DanielK]

This is the interesting part to me:

“The average restaurant spends $1,500 to $2,000 a month on OpenTable,” said Mr. Brown, of Ed’s Chowder House, adding that restaurants like his pay a setup fee, monthly fees and a fee for every reservation.

In addition, a serious fine-dining experience requires reservationists “12 hours a day, seven days a week,” Mr. Brown said, “a minimum of three people making $30,000 apiece per year plus benefits.”

“Add to that yearly payments of $20,000 in OpenTable fees,” he said. “So by having no reservations, that restaurant saves $125,000 a year.”

[Miami Danny]

Of course by simply going out of business, one can save even more.

[mdt]

Of course by simply going out of business, one can save even more.

So you're implying that not taking reservations will put a place out of business?

[Miami Danny]

I was half joking-but let's face it, if I am going to a business lunch or dinner, I need reservations. If I don't feel like spending an hour at the bar, I need reservations. If I'm going out with the family, I need reservations. First date? Reservations. Someone in from out of town? Reservations. If it's my day off and I plan on having some cocktails at the bar anyway, then I don't need them. But restaurants also pay exorbitant fees for credit cards, and there was a (fairly recent) time when very few restaurants in NYC took cards other than AMEX, if at all. They made the same claims-that they were able to keep prices lower. But the market demanded them. I think the market demands on reservations may not be the same but to cite wildly inflated fees as the reason and to state that the policy keeps prices down is specious at best.

Hey, Pasta Mia has a no reservations policy and the line is down the block every night. Does that prove anything? (Cue sarcastic remarks....)

[hmmboy]

I found this piece today amusing and interesting.

http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/09/16/when-food-is-exciting-and-you-are-bored-to-death/?src=twt&twt=nytimesdining

[DonRocks]

I found this piece today amusing and interesting.

http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/09/16/when-food-is-exciting-and-you-are-bored-to-death/?src=twt&twt=nytimesdining

The last time I was "intellectually stimulated" by a restaurant was at Burn Brae Dinner Theater when I was 12.

[hmmboy]

The last time I was "intellectually stimulated" by a restaurant was at Burn Brae Dinner Theater when I was 12.

And "physically stimulated" (not self induced) ??

[leleboo]

The NYT delves deep (ha) into the DC scene once again -- going all the way to Capitol Hill (right in my back yard, in fact).

I still think there's a mandate that any food writer discussing our fair city in the Gray Lady has to reinforce the misapprehension that we have undistinguishing, bumpkin-esque palates and are a staid, conservative lot of diners:

"'We don’t have esoteric restaurants' in Washington, said Mr. Haber, who hopes to open a burger place, too."

Sigh.

[jiveturk21]

The NYT delves deep (ha) into the DC scene once again -- going all the way to Capitol Hill (right in my back yard, in fact).

I still think there's a mandate that any food writer discussing our fair city in the Gray Lady has to reinforce the misapprehension that we have undistinguishing, bumpkin-esque palates and are a staid, conservative lot of diners:

"'We don’t have esoteric restaurants' in Washington, said Mr. Haber, who hopes to open a burger place, too."

Sigh.

“A lot of the neighbors thanked us up and down for investing here,” said Ty Neal, one of four partners in Matchbox Food Group, two of whom live in the neighborhood. Their first venture, Matchbox Pizza, opened in 2003 in nearby Chinatown, and “there were hookers and gunshots when we arrived,” he said.

What!? I will admit that in the mid-90's the area around the Verizon Center was not the place to go, but by 2003, I don't think that anyone that went to the Verizon Center was scared off by gunshots or tempted by hookers. Personally, I think that is revisionists history/

[dcs]

“A lot of the neighbors thanked us up and down for investing here,” said Ty Neal, one of four partners in Matchbox Food Group, two of whom live in the neighborhood. Their first venture, Matchbox Pizza, opened in 2003 in nearby Chinatown, and “there were hookers and gunshots when we arrived,” he said.

What!? I will admit that in the mid-90's the area around the Verizon Center was not the place to go, but by 2003, I don't think that anyone that went to the Verizon Center was scared off by gunshots or tempted by hookers. Personally, I think that is revisionists history/

I interpreted the first sentence as referring to the Barrack's Row location. In the story those two sentences are in separate paragraphs. I used to go down near the Chinatown location back in the d.c. space era, so the place has never much scared me, but I think it is also fair to say that the area has come a long way since 2003, and further since 2001 or so when they probably first expressed interest in the location. The Verizon Center only opened in 1997.

[Tujague]

Sam Sifton is becoming national editor for the NY Times, leaving his restaurant critic post. Sorry to hear it, as I enjoyed his reviews. I'll be interested to see who his replacement is.

[Tweaked]

I feel like the NY Times food section has been pretty lame lately. It use to be my first option for foodie reading on Wednesdays, but I can't remember much of interest in their section for months.

The Wash Post's hiring of Tim Carmen and his lengthy feature pieces are now my first read.

Although I would say that the NY Times Diner's Journal blog is a more interesting read than The Post's All We Can Eat blog.

[Tujague]

I feel like the NY Times food section has been pretty lame lately. It use to be my first option for foodie reading on Wednesdays, but I can't remember much of interest in their section for months.

I agree, it's been flat for some time now, and seemingly without much direction.

[dcs]

It is not in the Food section, but it could have been. Dinner and Derangement by Frank Bruni. Worth using one of your free New York Times page views to read.

[johnb]

It is not in the Food section, but it could have been. Dinner and Derangement by Frank Bruni. Worth using one of your free New York Times page views to read.

That article is well worth reading.

And as an aside, IMO Bruni has been developing as a darn good writer on a wide variety of topics since expanding out of the food section.

[DonRocks]

Dinner and Derangement by Frank Bruni.

6th word in 3rd-to-last paragraph is interesting in that piece.

A logical choice, or a kitten in a lion's den?

[DonRocks]

It is not in the Food section, but it could have been. Dinner and Derangement by Frank Bruni. Worth using one of your free New York Times page views to read.

Sean Thackrey wrote (in the comments section):

Are "foodies" finally saying what the Wine Police have been saying for so long, e.g., transposed from winespeak, "Hey, do these carrots actually express their terroir with typicité??" In other words, are they generic?? And being "typique", that is, "generic", why, let's see, this is always good, right?? I mean, you couldn't change anything & thus make a better result, except of course by "not" doing anything, in quotes because it's an idiocy, and therefore because you're, uh, not doing anything, you're "letting the terroir express itself" more fully?.

The greatest carrots - like the greatest wines - reflect immense effort on the part of the caretakers not to impose their own personal prejudices onto the carrots, or the wines.

Think it's bullshit? Think again. (And yes, this general philosophy is one of my great, guiding lights for running this website - my name might be on the label; but it's the terroir that speaks here.)

[mtpleasanteater]

Hiring an experienced critic would be a change of direction for the Times, the last two critics have been mid-career journalists with either little experience of formal dining or little interest in the job. Hopefully it's a sign that the Times is taking the position more seriously.

ETA: Eater reports they've hired an experienced critic not named Tom.

[Poivrot Farci]

The Lost Art of Buying From a Butcher. The product of degenerative convenience and our diseased food system which demands profits while promoting abusive excess at the expense of quality and fundamental nutrition. DC could benefit from a proper butcher shop.