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Iconic Restaurants (Where You Don't Need To Mention the City, Because They Define they City)


Kibbee Nayee

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I got to thinking....does Washington have an iconic food place, not a 3-star (necessarily) but a place that defines the city, where locals eat all the time but tourists also flock to, where the food is honest and the place has been around long enough to be passed down from generation to generation.

Like Katz's Deli in New York, or Swan Oyster Depot in S.F., or the No Name Restaurant in Boston. Definitely NOT Pat's or Geno's in Philly because most locals avoid them, but perhaps Tony Luke's. Or like Primanti Brothers in Pittsburgh but I wouldn't go out of my way to eat one of those.

Two questions, more or less....

Name the landmark restaurants or food joints that define American cities. Does L.A. have one (Pink's?) or Chicago (Geno's?) or Boise or Des Moines or wherever?

And then name the place that defines Washington DC....

I'm guessing it's Ben's Chili Bowl in DC, with Old Ebbitt Grill in second place....but am I missing one or more...?

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For DC, I might add Horace and Dickie's over on H st; sadly, I don't think we really have a place (anymore, looking at you Harvey's)s that "defines" us as a region the way that some of the joints you mentioned above do for their respective cities.

For New Orleans, Galatoire's, Antoine's, Commander's Palace, Parkway, Dooky Chase's plus about, oh I don't know, a few hundred other places.

Compare that to DC, it just ain't the same in terms of history and a defining sense of cuisine.

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I am not really familiar enough with other places to add many, maybe Dinosaur BBQ in Rochester, NY.

For DC- what about say the Senate cafeteria, (it's in Arlington but Ray's fits this), Market Lunch, 2Amy's used to be, but I don't know that tourists would seek it out like they used to do, yes on Old Ebbitt's, Off the Record at the Hay Adams.  Central might fit the bill too.  Certainly Jaleo (downtown only).

Breadline probably used to be one, Hotel Washington rooftop was one.    The problem is we have less long term been there forever type places, we have so much movement. And now so many of our chefs have become less DC and more international.  Probably at one time we had more iconic places, whether they were that good, who knows.  Plus it seems like good chefs now have to open multiple restaurants and then any one becomes less iconic.  For instance Mike Isabella's Graffiato could have become iconic if he didn't have so many other projects, same as perhaps Good Stuff Eatery (even though I didn't personally like it plenty of locals did).

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I am not really familiar enough with other places to add many, maybe Dinosaur BBQ in Rochester, NY.

For DC- what about say the Senate cafeteria, (it's in Arlington but Ray's fits this), Market Lunch, 2Amy's used to be, but I don't know that tourists would seek it out like they used to do, yes on Old Ebbitt's, Off the Record at the Hay Adams.  Central might fit the bill too.  Certainly Jaleo (downtown only).

Breadline probably used to be one, Hotel Washington rooftop was one.    The problem is we have less long term been there forever type places, we have so much movement. And now so many of our chefs have become less DC and more international.  Probably at one time we had more iconic places, whether they were that good, who knows.  Plus it seems like good chefs now have to open multiple restaurants and then any one becomes less iconic.  For instance Mike Isabella's Graffiato could have become iconic if he didn't have so many other projects, same as perhaps Good Stuff Eatery (even though I didn't personally like it plenty of locals did).

Market Lunch is an exceptional omission on my part, it absolutely fits the bill

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Does the question mean an icon of that city's food, or of it's culture and people? If the latter, the first thing that comes to mind for Chicago is Manny's Deli. Watering holes for the nightly crowd, perhaps the Billy Goat or Old Town Ale House or the Green Mill stand out as truly iconic.

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Below is the complete list of James Beard American Classic Award winners dating to its first year in 1998.

Today, I would have Jimmy Cantler's, Crisfield and Old Ebbit.  Problem with Horace and Dickey's is that it's not as good as it was in the '70's when it was called Boyd's and Boyd's wasn't as good as when the original owner moved from Southwest where it was a D.C. institution after WW II.  Washington once had the best fresh fried fish sandwich in the U. S. with french fries fried in lard (Arthur Bryant's still does this in Kansas City) and really mayonnaisey cole slaw.  Horace and Dickey's no longer has the fries or the slaw and the fish sandwiches don't taste the same (frozen vs. fresh?).

I believe a place needs 50 or so years and must be in the same location otherwise I would have had the original Ledo's in Adelphi and Bo Brooks when it was on Harford rd in Baltimore.  The Canopy has great pit beef but needs more time.  Baltimore's Prime Rib probably qualifies.  I'm not sure what's left in Baltimore: The Pimlico Hotel was once an absolute icon but it closed in the '90's. Attman's?  Chesapeake?  Gunning's?  Hausner's?  Little Italy must have something but over the years I've been to every one of them and there is no single restaurant (like Atlantic City's Chef Vola's or St. Louis's Tony's) that really stands out.  Maybe Sabatino's or Chiaparelli's but neither is very good.  My guess is that Faidley's is the best surviving Baltimore icon (although the Narrows have better crab cakes) along with the Prime Rib.

Atlantic City:  White House Sub Shop, Chef Vola's (James Beard American Classic), Dock's Oyster Bar

Ocean City:  the original Phillips (which I really dislike but remember eating there in the early 1960's when it was legitimately good; but I respect its history).  Thrasher's original, Fisher's original

Seaside Heights:  the original Kohr Bros. with the '40's ElectroFreeze machine

James Beard haven't given an American Classic award to a Maryland Crab House yet but they must.  Either Jimmy Cantler's or Waterman's Crab House in Rock Hall which are both icons.  Rod and Reel has been around a long time, too as has Suicide Bridge.  ('20's)  Waterman's and Suicide Bridge deserve more mention on here as does the Narrows.  Ocean City's best seafood restaurant is Captain's Table which dates back a hundred years but it is now a nondescript restaurant in the Courtyard although it does have the same excellent food.  Harrison's on Tilghman Island goes back to the 19th century and hasn't changed much over the last 50 years.  Great cole slaw and red MD crab soup.

By the way, for all of the fame of Louisiana's "Cajun Country" Beard hasn't acknowledged a single restaurant there...yet.

I would've had the original Allman's BBQ in Fredericksburg in this, too, but I haven't been in five or six years to know what it's like today. Perhaps Carl's would qualify for frozen custard.  It's one of the few remaining '40's/'50's seasonal stands left anywhere that still use their original ElectroFreeze machines.

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Although the awards tend to focus on upscale dining in large cities, since 1998 there has been an "America's Classics" category which honors legendary family-owned restaurants across the country. The "America's Classics" winners routinely draw the biggest applause of the night at the awards ceremony.[citation needed] Past winners are:[11]

1998

Durgin-Park, Boston, MA
Second Avenue Deli, New York, NY (Was closed at one point)
Doris & Ed's, Highlands, NJ
Original Stroud's, Kansas City, MO
Joe's Stone Crab, Miami Beach, FLA
Joe T. Garcia's, Ft. Worth, TX
Tadich Grill, San Francisco, CA
Emmett Watson's Oyster Bar, Seattle, WA

1999

The Berghoff, Chicago, IL (was closed, but re-opened)
Café Pasqual's, Santa Fe, NM
Doumar's Cones and BBQ, Norfolk, VA
Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana, New Haven, CT
Mosca's, Avondale, LA.
The Original Pancake House, Portland, OR
Philippe the Original, Los Angeles, CA
The Oyster Bar at Grand Central Terminal, New York, NY

2000

Camp Washington Chili, in Camp Washington, CincinnatiOhio.
Helena Hawaiian Foods, Oahu HI
Mario's, Bronx, NY
Moosewood Restaurant, Ithaca, NY
Mrs. Wilkes' Dining Room, Savannah, GA
The Original Sonny Bryan's, Dallas, TX
White House Sub Shop, Atlantic City, NJ
Swan Oyster Depot, San Francisco, CA

2001

Versailles, Miami, FL
Waterman's Beach Lobster, South Thomaston, ME
H&H Carwash & Restaurant, El Paso, TX
Langer's Deli & Restaurant, Los Angeles, CA

2002

Ray's Boathouse, Seattle, WA
Marconi's, Baltimore, MD (Now closed)[12]
Three Brothers Serbian Restaurant, Milwaukee, WI
Peter Luger Steak House, Brooklyn, NY

2003

Duarte's Tavern, Pescadero, CA
Anchor Bar, Buffalo, NY
The Skylight Inn, Ayden, NC
Lexington #1, Lexington, NC
The Shed, Santa Fe, NM

2004

Sam Choy's Kaloko, Kailua-Kona, HI
The Prime-Burger, New York, NY
Ben's Chili Bowl, Washington DC
Al's Breakfast, Minneapolis, MN

2005

Yuca's, Los Angeles, CA
Charlie's Sandwich Shoppe, Boston, MA
Willie Mae's Scotch House, New Orleans, LA
El Chorro Lodge, Paradise Valley, AZ

2006

Barney Greengrass, New York, NY
Bowens Island Restaurant, Charleston, SC
Hamura's Saimin Stand, Kauai, HI
John's Roast Pork, Philadelphia, PA
Lagomarcino', Moline, IL
Louie Mueller Barbecue, Taylor, TX
Polly's Pancake Parlor, Sugar Hill, NH
Taylor's Automatic Refresher, St. Helena, CA

2007

Primanti Brothers, Pittsburgh, PA
The Pickwick, Duluth, MN
Doe's Eat Place, Greenville, MS
Aunt Carrie's, Narragansett, RI
Brookville Hotel, Abilene, KS
Weaver D's, Athens, GA

2008

Bagaduce Lunch, Brooksville, ME
Jumbo's, Miami, FL
Irma's Restaurant Houston, TX
Tufano's Vernon Park Tap, Chicago, IL
Maneki, Seattle, WA

2009

Breitbach's Country Dining, Sherrill, IA
Totonno's, Brooklyn, NY
Mustache Bill's Diner, Barnegat Light, NJ
Yank Sing, San Francisco, CA
Arnold's Country Kitchen, Nashville, TN

2010

Al's French Frys, South Burlington, VT
The Bright Star, Bessemer, AL
Calumet Fisheries, Chicago
Gustavus Inn, Gustavus, AK
Mary & Tito's Cafe, Albuquerque, NM

2011

Chef Vola's, Atlantic City, NJ
Crook's Corner, Chapel Hill, NC
Le Veau d'Or, New York, NY
Noriega Restaurant and Hotel, Bakersfield, CA
Watts Tea Shop, Milwaukee, WI

2012

The Fry Bread House, Phoenix, AZ[13]
Nora's Fish Creek Inn, Wilson, WY
St. Elmo's Steak House, Indianapolis, IN
Jones Bar-B-Q Diner, Marianna, AR
Shady Glen, Manchester, CT

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Amighetti's and Imo's in St. Louis.  And Tony's for high end dining there.  

With the caveat that I left over 30 years ago:

God I hated Imo's pizza.  Crackers topped with a made up cheese and canned industrial sauce

Kemoll's (especially when it was on the North Side) & Ted Drewes.  Absolutely Amighetti's.  Crown Candy Kitchen?

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Mathew's Pizza in Baltimore springs to mind, as does Lusco's in Greenwood,MS and The Crown in Indianola,MS

It wouldn't surprise me at all to see these crop up, I've been going to them for quite a few years now and my family has been darkening their doors for even longer; we're still going back and ain't got any quittin' plans yet

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Amighetti's and Imo's in St. Louis.  And Tony's for high end dining there.  

 

With the caveat that I left over 30 years ago:

God I hated Imo's pizza.  Crackers topped with a made up cheese and canned industrial sauce

Kemoll's (especially when it was on the North Side) & Ted Drewes.  Absolutely Amighetti's.  Crown Candy Kitchen?

Charlie Gitto's! Definitely Crown Candy Kitchen and Ted Drewes. Loved Tony's, used to love Anthony's more (was always my birthday place as a little kid -- lamb chops with mint jelly!). I'd also have to throw The Women's Exchange in there for lunch.

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For statewide iconic places to eat, a or the diner in NJ has to be the choice.  Diners, often built in the traditional metallic bus construction mode abound throughout the state.  They gather huge fans and major debates.  Which is the best?  They are open early for breakfast and stay open late through the evening.  Their fare can be simple or expansive.  Counters, booths, jukeboxes at the table.  They define many of the dining choices in the "Garden State"

While the debates range as to which is the best now, there are many who acknowledge the best ever was the Claremont Diner in my hometown.  Originally a simple regular sized diner at  the intersection of two major roads/state highways it ultimately expanded to a capacity of 400 with a traditional diner front and a series of very large dining spaces in the rear.

I was speaking with my brother,who was visiting relatives in NJ, where we grew up and he referenced he had a delicious relic from our past, the Claremont Health Salad, a dish primarily made famous at the Jersey Diner in our home which was quite well known; The Claremont Diner in Verona.

In its heyday the Claremont was owned by the Bauman brothers who had built an inconic diner/restaurant/jewish styled deli in Newark NJ in the 1930's the Weequahic Diner.   As demographics changed in Newark the Bauman's purchased the regular sized Claremont Diner in West Essex NJ and ultimately expanded it to what must have been around 20,000 feet, able to seat 400 at one time and was well known for its Health Salad on every table and its Claremont Cheese Cake.

Unfortunately the Claremont burned down.  Its namesake was transferred to a diner in Clifton I believe which was later highlighted in a scene in the Soprano's.

The Claremont, while one of hundreds of diners in the state, attracted diners from the South Shores of Jersey, from Rockland County NY and from NYC itself.  It was the iconic diner in a state of diners.

....and now I have to make a Claremont health salad.  Its a crispy delightful tangy, sweet and sour salad with cabbage.   Its probably the best way a family can get their little kids to enjoy fresh vegetables...It worked on me.  :)

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CF Folks on 19th Street won a JBF America's Classic award in 2013. Being razzed by Art Carlson is a real Washington experience.

Florida Avenue Grill has been around for over 50 years.  I used to go there enough that the waitress, Ms. Caroline, stopped giving me the menu and asked if I wanted the usual.  I haven't been back in a few years so I don't know if it is the same now.

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I should think the Brown Hotel in Louisville, where the hot brown sandwich was invented and the definitive version is served, would qualify.  The hot brown is certainly the iconic sandwich, even dish, of Louisville.

While we're in Kentucky, the Moonlight BBQ in Owensboro could be added to the list [even tho some (myself included) would say Old Hickory, while less-known, has better Q].

Surely Arthur Bryant's in Kansas City, after my friend Calvin Trillin, a KC native, made it famous by deeming it "the best restaurant in the world.".

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2 hours ago, curiouskitkatt said:

  The cheesesteak is probably the most recognized food association to Philly.  Pat's King of Steaks ( I won't even begin to tackle who wears the crown for best Cheesesteak)

Although, I truly think the roast pork at Tommy Dinic's is the unofficial regional favorite  of the city of Brotherly Love. 

There are plenty of places to get a good cheesesteak in and around Philly. Pat's and Geno's are not those places. Locals don't eat at Pat's and Geno's.

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Gotta mention Al Forno in Providence. Started the PVD dining renaissance in 1979 and still going strong 39 years later.

My brother Jon worked at a photo agency above Al Forno's original location on Steeple Street and he became such good friends with George (RIP) and Joanne that he's been to their home in France and went with them to visit a neighbor you might have heard of... Patricia Wells (no relation). (RI is a very small place). 

NB: My quasi-cousin Emily Percelay Conn and her husband both worked at Al Forno and she is now killing it with her bakery in Burlington VT. Her Instagram feed is a must. http://inthekitchenwithbronwyn.com/blog/food-entrepreneurs-series-part-iii-the-bakery-at-the-farmhouse-kitchen/

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39 minutes ago, Bob Wells said:

Gotta mention Al Forno in Providence. Started the PVD dining renaissance in 1979 and still going strong 39 years later.

Plus one on Al Forno, inventors of grilled pizza. As I read through this thread yesterday I thought of posting about them but didn't have time!

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3 hours ago, dracisk said:

Plus one on Al Forno, inventors of grilled pizza. As I read through this thread yesterday I thought of posting about them but didn't have time!

Yes, I was going to mention the grilled pizza, and forgot to do so! It's not often there's an undisputed inventor of a dish, but this is one of the rare cases!

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On 2/25/2014 at 11:47 AM, Steve R. said:

With the caveat that I left over 30 years ago:

God I hated Imo's pizza.  Crackers topped with a made up cheese and canned industrial sauce

Kemoll's (especially when it was on the North Side) & Ted Drewes.  Absolutely Amighetti's.  Crown Candy Kitchen?

Imo's pizza was the worse (particularly the cheese). 

On 1/27/2014 at 6:32 PM, bookluvingbabe said:

Amighetti's and Imo's in St. Louis.  And Tony's for high end dining there.  

Everyone went to Tony's for special occasions. I was never a fan of Ted Drewes, but it certainly has a following in St. Louis. During my first week at St. Louis University, the upperclassmen in my dorm kidnapped the freshman while we were in our pjs, blindfolded us, gave us shots of tequila, and then took us to White Castles and Ted Drewes. Maybe the tequila shooters are why I never liked Ted Drewes or White Castles...

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On 1/25/2014 at 5:28 PM, Kibbee Nayee said:

I got to thinking....does Washington have an iconic food place, not a 3-star (necessarily) but a place that defines the city, where locals eat all the time but tourists also flock to, where the food is honest and the place has been around long enough to be passed down from generation to generation.

Like Katz's Deli in New York, or Swan Oyster Depot in S.F., or the No Name Restaurant in Boston. Definitely NOT Pat's or Geno's in Philly because most locals avoid them, but perhaps Tony Luke's. Or like Primanti Brothers in Pittsburgh but I wouldn't go out of my way to eat one of those.

Two questions, more or less....

Name the landmark restaurants or food joints that define American cities. Does L.A. have one (Pink's?) or Chicago (Geno's?) or Boise or Des Moines or wherever?

And then name the place that defines Washington DC....

I'm guessing it's Ben's Chili Bowl in DC, with Old Ebbitt Grill in second place....but am I missing one or more...?

This has the makings of an ultimate food road trip.

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On 1/25/2014 at 5:28 PM, Kibbee Nayee said:

Name the landmark restaurants or food joints that define American cities. Does L.A. have one (Pink's?) or Chicago (Geno's?) or Boise or Des Moines or wherever?

Speaking of Des Moines... There are actually a few classic places that could fit the bill but I think Noah's Ark would take the prize.  The food scene in Des Moines has gotten MUCH better in the last ten years - if you find yourself in the city, there are BETTER options, but not as 'landmark'.

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