Gemini and Happy Ice Cream (formerly Happy Gyro, formerly Komi), 17th & P Streets NW, 2013 James Beard Award Winning Chef Johnny Monis Rocks East Dupont

[oliveDC]

After calling ahead for a table at Hank's and then being told when we got there that we must have made that phone call up, we sadly dragged our feet down 17th last night knowing we'd never get into Komi and facing the grim prospect that is the rest of the block.

"It never hurts to ask," said my friend as she walked into Komi while we waited outside. And miraculously enough, thanks to flaky reservation no-shows, we got a table and Komi saved the evening.

It sounds like most of what we ate has been covered here, but I have to preach to the choir... Those mascarpone figs were absolutely amazing, a sweet and salty dream come true. The speck wrapped white tuna was the table favorite (along with the suckling pig) but that farro salad underneath it blew me away. How can somthing so simple looking taste so complexly good? Anyone know what those bits of sweetness are? Currants maybe? I think I might need the recipe. All in all, another fabulous meal at Komi that left me shaking my head (in a good way of course). And they make it look so easy...man oh man...

[Pete]

Blah blah blah….Komi is fantastic… the food is fantastic…wine service is fantastic…if you are sick of reading great things about Komi, then skip this post.

Saturday night my wife and I made our maiden voyage to Komi and were blown away from the beginning. A special thanks to Sebastian for taking such good care of us. We opted for the tasting menu, which did not disappoint. Highlights included the marscapone dates topped with salt, the spinach gnocchi in a brown butter sauce, and the suckling pig. The cheese course was fantastic. My only minor quibble with the cheese course is that it only came with crostini. It would be nice if a quince paste or something similar also accompanied it to help cut through the saltiness of some of the cheeses. With an eclectic wine list reminiscent of Nectar, we opted for the wine pairings. The wines did not suck, and their were a lot of wines. When someone describes a wine to you using words such as “rubbery” and “petrol-like”, I do not normally have high hopes. However, Sebastian’s wine choices were terrific, with the Voulet Sparkling Malvasia Rosa as my favorite. Our dinner lasted about 4 hours, but our time there flew by. To quote DonRocks “Johnny Monis is a brilliant chef, Sebastian Zutant is a great GM, and the staff is young, caring and kind.”

[crackers]

The wines did not suck, and their were a lot of wines.  When someone describes a wine to you using words such as “rubbery” and “petrol-like”, I do not normally have high hopes.

What was that wine? If it's the same one I tried, it brought to mind not rubber so much as magic marker... or was it rubber cement...hmm...a bit fuzzy on the memory of that one for some reason.

Edited November 2, 2005 by crackers

[wu-tang]

Speaking as someone who has eaten at Komi many times:

It's getting cold out. Tis the season to dine at Komi. In my opinion, Monis shines the most during the fall and winter when his dishes can carry the full weight of his ambition. If you see goat or lamb on the menu, don't fuss. Just get it. That goes for anything in the 'macaronia' section of the menu too. (Read: sea. urchin. risotto. ) One dish stands out to me from last year: baby goat moussaka. Braised baby goat and tender eggplant on a bed of creamy soft polenta and mascarpone, garnished with phyllo. Sex on a plate. I'm hoping it makes a new reincarnation this season.

[Pete]

What was that wine?  If it's the same one I tried,  it brought to mind not rubber so much as magic marker... or was it rubber cement...hmm...a bit fuzzy on the memory of that one for some reason. 

I wish I could remember; however, there were many wines that came after that one, so my memory is also a bit.....fuzzy.

[hey_brookie]

Based on all this talk, I'm super excited to be heading to Komi for the first time tonight with my little sis...if we don't have time to do the tasting menu, what is not to be missed?

[Chris W]

As mentioned before anything that smacks of game meat. If the sea urchin rissotto is on the menu that's a must in my oppinion too.

[hey_brookie]

Oh my god, you guys weren't lying...it was awesome. So awesome, in fact, that I feel the need to report back for the first time.

Sis and I shared everything, since neither of us wanted to miss out.

We started with the bread soup and the Mezzawhatever--both were phenomenal, but the bread soup was really exceptional. Nice and hearty, wonderful sausage flavor throughout, spectacular.

2nd course I had the parpardelle with goat, which was savory but flavored with cinnamon and nutmeg. Totally fall. My sister had the spinach gnocchi, which were ridiculously rich and light all at the same time.

Mains were spit-roasted pork for my sister, which was smokey and tender and paired well with rich and creamy polenta and tender Brussels sprouts. I could eat this every night. I had the guinea hen, stuffed with figs. this was delightfully sweet and savory at once with hints of ham? in the fig stuffing.

We were sad to report to our server (sorry! forgot her name, but she was awesome) that we didn't have any room for dessert, she nodded and walked away. But then she returned with an order of fluffy and warm! Greek-style doughnuts with honey and creamy chocolate mascarpone for dipping. She said we couldn't leave without dessert My sister and I knew we couldn't say no, looked at one another and said 'but sir, it's just a wafer-thin mint', and ate it all. And we were glad glad glad we did, especially since we didn't explode.

Thank you for the tip! Komi is the perfect balance of comfort and elegance. I can not wait to go back.

[bookluvingbabe]

Reviewing my notes for tomorrow night's pre-birthday, I'm a terrible wife for taking a business trip and missing Mr. BLB numerically signifiant birthday, dinner....

1) Order game

2) Look for the sea urchin

3) Put ourselves in Seabastion's hands for the wines.

4) Eat the cheese

5) Doughnuts!

6) Stop eating soon....

7) Plan on cabbing it home

What am I missing?

I seem to recall reading somewhere that Evan, formerly of Palena, was at Komi. Is that right? He was always a fave server (not that I don't love Kate and Malik too...)

Thanks!

Jennifer

[Jonathan]

carolyn is at komi, evan i believe is now at eve.

[DonRocks]

I seem to recall reading somewhere that Evan, formerly of Palena, was at Komi.  Is that right?  He was always a fave server (not that I don't love Kate and Malik too...)

Evan, formerly of Palena, and formerly of Komi, is at Restaurant Eve.

When he's not running around town promoting his artwork...

Cheers,

Cool Disco Don.

[bookluvingbabe]

Wow!

Komi was exactly what I had hoped for and Mr. BLB greatly enjoyed his birthday dinner, particularly after I assured him I hadn't mentioned it during the reservation.

The amuse was dates filled with marscapone, lightly oiled with sea salt and served warm. Nice and chewy.

We started with the proscutto. Very nice presentation.

I had the rissotto--great flavors, toothy rice--not mushy which is why I avoid the rissotto so often. Mr. BLB had the spinach gnochi. So rich, so good. Made me wish there was bread on the table--it's hard to soak up that yummy butter with crackers. (Which were totally beyond belief good...)

We both had the suckling pig. So good! I think the polenta and brussel sprouts with the salty little bits of bacon(?) were even better than the pig though. I would have liked more brussel sprouts though! It is so rare to get a full serving of vegetables these days!

Dessert was the greek doughnuts with the chocolate pudding. Wow! That chocolate pudding good give Ray's chocolate mousse a run for its money.

We had various wines that I didn't write down and don't remember. But they were perfect for the food...

I thought the space had a very NY vibe--sparse decoration; staff all in black and that narrow town house thing.

I have the spiced gingerbread lollipops in my purse for later!

Jennifer

[Sebastian Zutant]

with a heavy heart,

Saturday will be my last day at Komi (it's also my birthday). For the record, this is not going to be easy. I am leaving my closest friend and the most talented chef I know. Johnny and I have worked together for as long as I have been in DC. He was a line cook and I a server. That being said, I want to focus my career on wine and have been offered a chance to do so. Komi is and always will be an amazing and special place, maybe now I'll get the chance to enjoy eating there!! There is no bad blood or ill will between the two of us. Just sad to let each other go. Anyhow, I could ramble on for a while but I am not gonna. That's all I got,

Sebastian Z.

over and out

[DonRocks]

I am leaving my closest friend and the most talented chef I know.

I just spent fifteen minutes on the phone with Johnny - he was calling you an A-hole and telling me about your sister's tattoo.

We'll miss you at Komi, Sebastian, but this just gives us one more dining option.

And here's some great news for fans of Komi: the plan is to continue shrinking the number of covers and continue focusing on quality over quantity - but there may also be a teeny-tiny bar coming our way in the near future....

Cheers,

Rocks.

[Jacques Gastreaux]

with a heavy heart,

Saturday will be my last day at Komi (it's also my birthday).  For the record, this is not going to be easy.  I am leaving my closest friend and the most talented chef I know.  Johnny and I have worked together for as long as I have been in DC.  He was a line cook and I a server. That being said, I want to focus my career on wine and have been offered a chance to do so.  Komi is and always will be an amazing and special place, maybe now I'll get  the chance to enjoy eating there!! There is no bad blood or ill will between the two of us.  Just sad to let each other go.  Anyhow, I could ramble on for a while but I am not gonna.  That's all I got,

Sebastian Z.

over and out

There's one data pint missing from this post--where the heck is Sebsatian going? We will certainly miss you at Komi. The dining experience won't be the same without you. It was such a pleasure to put oneself competely in your capable hands. Your talents were one of the reasons for wanting to dine at Komi.

[Al Dente]

There's one data pint missing from this post--where the heck is Sebsatian going? 

Answer

[crackers]

(DanielK @ Dec 6 2005, 04:33 PM)

Shouldn't you be Sperm Whale or something, now?

(crackers) Please Daniel, don't encourage him.   

...too late.

[RaisaB]

Oh come on! Where are the deleted parts, I know there are some! THis is not fair, I did not get to read them. Damn it!

[mdt]

Oh come on! Where are the deleted parts, I know there are some! THis is not fair, I did not get to read them. Damn it!

You missed nothing.

[bilrus]

Anyone who has been fortunate enough to have had the cookie platter at Palena knows about Ann Amernick's caramels. Sweet, a little salty, chewy and melting all at once.

The mascarpone filled date I had early in my dinner at Komi last Saturday night was all that and more. The sugars in the skin had caramelized and put up just a bit of resistance before giving way to the chewy interior. This was just an example of Chef Monis' ability to take a a few simple ingredients and gently coax them into something more than they are on their own and make you look at them in a different light.

Dish after dish highlighted the alchemy that was going on in the kitchen at the end of the long, narrow dining room. A plate of burrata, a luscious cross between mozzarella and ricotta, was paired with some fried garlic, olive oil, a few broccoli florets, a small piece of anchovy and some salt to form a dish that was all about simple tastes and complex mouthfeel.

And how could I not order the white tuna wrapped in speck again? Forget beef and lobster - fish and pork is the ultimate surf and turf. The speck does double duty here as both a flavoring and moistening agent.

They've revised the way they are doing their tasting menu - $55 gets you your choice of pasta and main courses preceeded by a parade of amuses and starters then finished off with a cheese plate and your choice of dessert. It is still added up to ten or eleven courses, each one better than the last, over three and a half hours.

Is there a better value or more interesting cooking anywhere in town?

Edited December 15, 2005 by bilrus

[JLK]

Komi is the spot.

One week later, and I'm still thinking about all of the elements of my meal there. Things I wouldn't usually imagine myself fixating on like rutabaga (served with cinnamon and golden raisins as an accompaniment to the lamb) and parsnips (added to the incredibly good lentils that also accompanied the lamb).

Other great moments? The wines Chef Monis paired for my date and my meals. Chesnut noodles with oxtail (rich, salty and delicious). Doughnuts, of course. Oh, and the service. Although we were not one of the lovely Carolyn's tables, we had a great catch-up chat AND our own server whose name escapes me right now was first-rate.

[rhodegirl]

Do yourself a favor and try the new tasting menu at Komi as soon as possible. When we were there one night last week, one of the small plates, or mezzethakia, was a cauliflower panna cotta with taleggio cheese, served with a side of rapini. Sink your fork into the middle, and golden egg yolk oozes out, mingling with the rich, creamy essence-of-cauliflower-and-cheese custard and the sharp, pleasantly bitter greens.

We’ve had dinner at Komi three times in the last few months, and each meal was better than the last – which was hard to believe, because the first dinner was outstanding. I suppose I’m preaching to the choir here - I realize Komi is a donrockwell.com favorite, but it’s worth repeating: Chef Johnny Monis is an amazing talent, and we’re lucky to have him in DC.

Other highlights from our dinners:

Bronzini Me Harti, a tender and sweet filet, cooked in parchment, served with herb salad, lemon, olive oil and fingerling potatoes.

Spinach gnocchi with oxtail ragu.

Risotto with sea urchin, roasted squash and vanilla

Papardelle with roasted baby goat ragu

Prosciutto with fig and grape mostarda on grilled bread

House-cured anchovy and octopus with heirloom beets, orange and olive oil

Oyster served with Greek yogurt and pomegranate vinegar

The best tzatziki I've ever tasted

There were also a couple of other outstanding dishes, the details of which I didn’t write down, such as perfectly cooked lamb (loin, I think) served over lentils and an exquisite ravioli that involved a touch of truffle oil – apologies for not remembering all the details - clear evidence that Carolyn and her colleagues did an excellent job of pairing wines with our dishes - wonderful service as always.

[JLK]

Need a Komi fix (I know I do)? You best call asap because the restaurant's last day of service for 2005 is December 23. After Christmas, the restaurant will be closed briefly ("10 days to three weeks" I was told) for renovations.

Also, Chef Monis is featured here.

Edited December 19, 2005 by JLK

[DonRocks]

!

[crackers]

!

?

[mdt]

!

Are you a little, ahem, excited?

[JLK]

Sorry for my noisy gang, Don. Hope we didn't disturb the peace too much.

Again, WOW. Wow. And WOW again. That's the only possible starting point for my meal at Komi last night. My (noisy, birthday-celebrating) crew of four had the tasting menu and I know understand that it truly is the way to go. There was not a single klunker in the group. We thought these dishes, in particular, were outstanding:

* Mascarpone stuffed date with fleur de sel

* Deviled, truffled eggs

* Parsnip and taleggio panna cotta (with delicious little flecks of salt atop it)

* Spinach nudi with wild boar and brown butter

(fortunately this was my dish; although my friends loved the ricotta ravioli and pappardelle with goat ragu, they declared the nudi the winner and after tasting the others, I had to agree)

* Lamb (again because I loved it so much last time; I think it was even better this time)

* Guinea hen with mortadella and fig stuffing (delicious although I only had a bite)

I was a tad too full to enjoy the cheese or desserts, but still. Such a fantastic meal and what a wonderful staff.

[dcfoodie]

Is there a better value or more interesting cooking anywhere in town?

Nope.

[Kanishka]

Need a Komi fix (I know I do)? You best call asap because the restaurant's last day of service for 2005 is December 23. After Christmas, the restaurant will be closed briefly ("10 days to three weeks" I was told) for renovations.

Please, please, please let Komi open before January 17th. I've let this one go for far too long and seriously regret it.

[porcupine]

Please, please, please let Komi open before January 17th.  I've let this one go for far too long and seriously regret it.

Well, I have reservations for January 14, FWIW. Maybe I'd better make a backup plan.

[Twinklerin]

Does anybody know when Komi plans to reopen?

[Nadya]

According to JM, a week from now, perhaps - insha'allah.

[JLK]

That's GREAT news. Did he say if they ended up adding a bar or not? My guess is no, if they're ready to reopen so soon.

[dcfoodie]

That's GREAT news.  Did he say if they ended up adding a bar or not?  My guess is no, if they're ready to reopen so soon.

Last I talked to them, they said there was going to be no bar. That was the 23rd right before they closed (Nadya might have more recent news). Too bad. I wouldn't mind stopping by for the panna cotta on a random weeknight and sitting at the bar. I feel weird taking up a whole table by myself and only ordering one dish.

Edited January 6, 2006 by dcfoodie

[Sebastian Zutant]

KOMI!!!!!!!!!!

[Jacques Gastreaux]

KOMI!!!!!!!!!!

Feeling a little homesick, Sebastian?

[dcfoodie]

Feeling a little homesick, Sebastian?

For some reason I'm picturing Marlin Brando in A Streetcar Named Desire...

[porcupine]

Does anybody know when Komi plans to reopen?

"Sometime next week" according to the message that was left on my answering machine yesterday, to inform me that they could not honor my reservation for tonight. I don't hold this against them, btw. Construction sucks. According to their answering machine, they will re-open Jan 17. Hope that helps.

[DonRocks]

"Sometime next week" according to the message that was left on my answering machine yesterday, to inform me that they could not honor my reservation for tonight.      I don't hold this against them, btw.  Construction sucks.  According to their answering machine, they will re-open Jan 17.  Hope that helps.

I talked with Johnny this morning (*), and he said he's shooting for Tuesday - but I wouldn't just walk in without calling to check.

(*) 1 AM at The Office

[Michael Landrum]

I talked with Johnny this morning (*), and he said he's shooting for Tuesday - but I wouldn't just walk without calling first.

(*) 1 AM at The Office

I just saw Mr. Monis at Greenberry's, looking a bit haggard and quite sexy I might add, and he confirms this hope for Tuesday--not that I am a reliable source for dates of openings.

[dcfoodie]

I just talked to Anna. I was trying to make a reservation for tonight but they wont be open. She did say that they were hopeful that they would be open tomorrow, but she couldn't make any promises.

[porcupine]

Komi has emerged from its recent renovation as one of the stars of the DC dining scene. (Though it probably was before, too.) Last night we had the fixed price tasting menu. This included mezze, one pasta (from a choice of four), one meat or fish main course (from a choice of four), and one dessert (from a choice of three). Sound a little skimpy? Check it out what we were served over a three hour period:

house-cured green olives

sea urchin with Meyer lemon (and, um, something else)

warm dates with mascarpone, sea salt, and olive oil

warm fresh mozzarella with toasted breadcrumbs and house-cured anchovy

crostini with: tzatziki; prosciutto and kumquat; deviled egg and black truffle

cauliflower panna cotta with quail egg, blood orange, Parmesan (and, um, something else)

fried four-cheese balls with cipollini onions

house made crackers: asiago; paprika; sesame

For pasta Mr. P had ricotta ravioli with mushrooms and black truffles. I had pappardelle with milk-braised baby goat.

For mains he had white tuna with, um, something really tasty (like orzo maybe?) and I had grilled lamb with lentils and rutabaga.

Then there was the cheese. Sorry I didn't get the names, but one was a pecorino that crumbled off the fork yet was creamy in the mouth; another was a very soft and highly pungent cow-goat cheese; the third was possibly the sharpest blue I've ever tasted. These were served with a toasted slice of fig and pinenut bread (which I think it had anise in it).

And dessert: his was donuts with chocolate mascarpone pudding. Mine was Meyer lemon gelato with fennel-lemon shortbread. (If you read the Shopping and Cooking forum you know how nuts I am for Meyer lemon. Joy!)

The coffee took a while because they were still brewing it. For that matter, so did his iced tea! Anna explained "we now brew iced tea to order". I love that.

And finally, lollipops, which we stupidly left on the table. We were too dazed to remember to take them along.

I keep trying to describe these dishes for your benefit, and I just can't. The mezze tasted like the epitome of each ingredient, because they're so simple. Yet they're so good! The sea urchin was like a spoonful of ocean. I've never liked anchovy until last night. The papparedelle were supple, the goat rich and almost sweet.

Everything was... perfect. I never use the word "perfect". But there wasn't one thing to quibble over. The flavors, presentation, contrasting textures... all sublime, eye-opening, jaw-dropping perfection.

I'm in awe. I last dined at Komi two years ago, and remember thinking that the chef had promise. Promise fulfilled! This was a stunning experience. And not just the food. The interior is beautiful in a Spartan sort of way (if I were a designer that would be my style; I love simple). The staff were friendly and gracious with just a touch of (appropriate) formality. Anna chose a wonderful Sicilian red to accompany my lamb.

In every way last night's dinner was every bit as good as my recent meals at Citronelle and Maestro. And how much did this extravaganza cost? $58 per person.

Given the quality (and even quantity), this has to be the best bang for the buck around.

My thanks to Anna and her crew and Chef Monis for a dinner I'll never forget.

Edited January 23, 2006 by porcupine

[JLK]

Good news, good news! And just in time for me to continue my little celebration. Did you notice anything strikingly different post-renovation?

[porcupine]

Good news, good news!  And just in time for me to continue my little celebration.  Did you notice anything strikingly different post-renovation?

After a two-year absence, I wouldn't know. But: the walls are sponged yellow. The ceiling is recessed, with indirect lighting; a fan light is in the front alcove; other lighting is from votives on the tables and candle sconces; the floor is bare wood; the tables are dark wood, and only a few have tablecloths; the chairs are dark wood with white seats; there is a service table near the front and a cupboard along one wall. I believe there are fewer tables than before. And that's about it. I think it's gorgeous. I'm sure many will find it plain. But there sure ain't much to distract you from the food!

[hillvalley]

About how long does it take to do the tasting menu on the weekend? Can it be done and enjoyed in under two hours?

[porcupine]

About how long does it take to do the tasting menu on the weekend?  Can it be done and enjoyed in under two hours?

We were there for three, and the pacing was very relaxed. I would hesitate to say that they could do it faster, as I have no inside knowledge, but from a customer point of view I'd hope that they could. Couldn't hurt to ask, right?

[JLK]

My first meal there (a la carte) was definitely around 2 hours or slightly under. But when we had the tasting menu, we were in a very festive mood overall and the staff matched it for us, pacing the courses a bit slowly. We were consuming a good deal of wine too. That meal took about 3 1/2 hours (not a dull moment!).

[dcfoodie]

Yeah, 3 1/2 hours sounds about right for my experiences too. Let's see, we started around 8:30 PM and left sometime after 12. But like JLK, we weren't in too much of a hurry.

[Nadya]

I have never got out of Komi in less than 3 hours, and that's on the short side. And I would stay longer if they didn't have to close.

[Free Wilma]

Any hope they will ever have a "real" website? I've been itching to give Komi a try but stand little chance of convincing my 1+ without giving him an opportunity to review the menu in advance.

Edited January 23, 2006 by Free Wilma