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Gemini and Happy Ice Cream (formerly Happy Gyro, formerly Komi), 17th & P Streets NW, 2013 James Beard Award Winning Chef Johnny Monis Rocks East Dupont


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Fans of Komi be prepared for some sticker shock next time you visit! Prices on the latest menu have gone up...Last time I was there for dinner about 2-3 months ago entrees hovered around the $20 mark, now they range in the $24 to $27 range. Apps are weighing in the $9-$12 range, previously they were in the $7-$10 range.

However, the food is still inventive and fun and for the effort that must go into the dishes, certainly still worth a trip.

Last's menu had:

Roasted Quail foie gras & fig stuffing, morel and fig vincotto $27

Day Boat Scallops loucanico saudge, dates, arugula $24

Speck Wrapped tuna $26

Cast Iron Roasted strip steak $32

Whole Bronzini Me Harti fingerlings, herb salad and meyer lemon oil $27

The amuse was a cauliflower panna cotta with a coddled duck egg inside...although I'm not a cauliflower fan (list of things I will not eat) it was a fun dish.

We then had the crispy sardines; the housecured salamia (called the deconstructed gyro) with lamb prosciutto, pastrouma, capicola; crispy squash blossom which were delicious; and the pastrami of wild salmon which was speciously like salmon tartar.

entrees: we tried the speck wrapped tuna excellent as always; the scallops which we thought were a little over salted (looked like sea salt sprinkled on top); whole bronzini, what a great piece of fish, moist and tender, mild but refreshing flavor.

we then wrapped things up with the cheese course, a curiously strong chocolate dessert that tasted of chocolate and spearmint (not sure on that one!), and strawberries in a phyllo cup (which was a great summer dessert!).

All in all it's the same Komi we know and love...we're just going to be paying a little more!

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Is that indicative of the number of entrees typically available a la carte?

The menu is typically pretty short. The current menu is split up this way

first course

Grilled Asparagus $9

Housecured Salamia $12

Crispy squash blossom $11

Thalassina (seafood selections)

Crispy fresh sardines $10

pastrami of wild king salmon $9

selection of Oysters $12

Macaronia (pasta dishes)

Black tagliatelle with peekytoe crab $14

Zucchini dolma $10

rabbit liver ravioli $12

Meat and fish

Roasted Quail foie gras & fig stuffing, morel and fig vincotto $27

Day Boat Scallops loucanico saudge, dates, arugula $24

Speck Wrapped tuna $26

Cast Iron Roasted strip steak $32

Whole Bronzini Me Harti fingerlings, herb salad and meyer lemon oil $27

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So....

Instead of engaging in this silly-daft nonsense,  I urge you to take longer look at Don's profile. You've heard it from me. He's member No. 2, NUMBER TWO.

So the question is forming in my mouth...

Who is MEMBER No. 1?

Can it be Mr. Snuffeluffegusima? Or....?????

bump
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The menu is typically pretty short.  The current menu is split up this way

first course

Grilled Asparagus $9

Housecured Salamia $12

Crispy squash blossom $11

Thalassina (seafood selections)

Crispy fresh sardines $10

pastrami of wild king salmon $9

selection of Oysters $12

Macaronia (pasta dishes)

Black tagliatelle with peekytoe crab $14

Zucchini dolma $10

rabbit liver ravioli $12

Meat and fish

Roasted Quail foie gras & fig stuffing, morel and fig vincotto $27

Day Boat Scallops loucanico saudge, dates, arugula $24

Speck Wrapped tuna $26

Cast Iron Roasted strip steak $32

Whole Bronzini Me Harti fingerlings, herb salad and meyer lemon oil $27

Anyone know if this is still the current menu? Also, does Komi have a website?

I have a reservation on Friday night, but I'm hesitating because some in my party don't eat shellfish or pork (they're kosher-style) and I'm worried the menu may be too limited for them.

Anyone has any experience in asking for substitutions at Komi?

I usually try to let a chef create their dishes as they see fit, but in this case eating these types of foods is an absolute no-no.

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If Komi were a man, I’d stay with him forever.

Not for good looks. Not for sublime attention to detail. Not for the kissyface.

I’d do it for the incredibly consistent delivery of gastronomic experiences that are never predictable but always wonderful. You never know what’s coming, but you always leave giddy with delight. In short, Komi would be a kind of man who would blindfold me, tie me up, say “trust me”…and I would, with no hesitation.

That’s love, baby.

Last Saturday night, a friend and I put ourselves in the capable and brilliant hands of Chef Monis and the Fabulous Sebastian. The royal treatment began at the sole window table saved just for us. All the better to enjoy fabulous food and wine, knowing the high-heeled you and your handsome friend make an enviable picture for the Dupont denizens and clueless tourists slowing their stride to gaze at Where The Beautiful People Eat. The menus were handed out and promptly snatched away as we both went for the tasting menu. (I haven't been killing myself at the gym all these hours for nothin'.)

And so I begin.

A gigamoto oyster with crème fraiche and pomegranate vinegar. My first gigamoto was a delight – refreshing and acidic enough to arouse the senses yet with enough flesh for a few bites unlike its lesser siblings that just slide down your throat. Note again the best presentation in town – a single oyster with a wee dollop of crème fraiche nestled on top of a grainy block of ice rising out of a white napkin. Minimalist, pure and stunning.

Watermelon with feta cheese and wild arugula with spiced crushed hazelnut and olive oil. This great little teaser is a perfect example of Chef Monis pairing the unconventional with terrific results – the flavors of every single ingredient are so pure and combine so well in your mouth without melting into each other.

Spinach gnocchi with pancetta and browned butter. Moving into serious food territory now. Can gnocchi be dainty, delicate and comforting at the same time? They can if they live at the bottom of Komi’s pasta bowls. Hardly half the size of my little finger, they arrive under paper-thin and crispy slice of pancetta in a simple sauce. They were my friend’s favorite. A steaming heap of these little darlings can surely bring one back to loving life on a miserable cold night.

Dayboat scallop with braised oxtail and anchovy paste. Did I mention Johnny’s talent for combining the unpredictable? Bet you’d never think you can have scallops and oxtail in the same dish? But the bed of shredded oxtail was a fitting setting for a sweet, firm, perfectly cooked scallop flesh.

For mains, we were delighted again by two different dishes – all the better to filch from each other’s plate, to spoon-feed, to trade forkfuls, to and ooh and aah. My friend had the guinea hen with figs and foie gras, a beautiful concoction of flavors that were meant for each other.

My main took my breath away. As if I didn’t just down five courses, I got a steaming plateful of roast suckling pig with brussel sprouts. I urge you to schedule a trip to Komi as soon as possible, and when you make your res, mention in a trembling, obsequious voice that you heard they are serving suckling pig and could they please reserve one for you? It’s tender. It’s cooked for six hundred hours over mesquite and something else (that slipped my boozy memory at the time) to intensify the flavor. It’s falling off the bone. The aroma could drive you to tears. It is also a perfect showcase for JM’s genius of extracting every last drop of flavor from an ingredient.

Desserts were 1) milk chocolate semifreddo with ginger cannolli and bitter chocolate sauce for me, and 2) gelato with lemon shortbread for him. The desserts at Komi are getting even better thanks to pastry chef Robert Underwood, and for those of you who can’t make a dinner trip, consider stopping by for desserts and cheese. The combo of sinfully thick dark sauce and delicate semifreddo works very well, and adorable wee cannolli add texture to an otherwise very smooth dish. I haven’t tasted gelato – no room! – but it looked delightful as well. Desserts at Komi always make me wish I didn’t just have six courses and have more stomach capacity.

Why no commentary on wine? Because I am a big ole lightweight, easily boozed up, who gratefully downed but never remembered Sebastian’s delightful selections – something I’m regretting as we speak. But sparkling, white, two reds and a dessert wine both made an appearance. Next time, I’m bringing pen and bloody paper. Service was impeccable as always, napkins folded, plates and glasses delivered and whisked away with a kind of quiet, competent magic with a few well-placed flourishes that Sebastian and team (especially assistant manager Anna) do so well, that looks easy but takes tremendous skill.

Time and again, Komi delivers evenings to remember fondly and look forward to, the sort of experiences where you never know what’s coming, but you know you’ll leave happy, the kind of experiences that you love to share with the closest friends. I can’t wait to go back. And if it were a man….but you know that already.

Edited by Nadya
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Time and again, Komi delivers evenings to remember fondly and look forward to, the sort of experiences where you never know what’s coming, but you know you’ll leave happy, the kind of experiences that you love to share with the closest friends. I can’t wait to go back. And if it were a man….but you know that already.

Great, great, great, great report. I can almost see, almost smell, and almost taste everything thanks to your writing.
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My main took my breath away.  As if I didn’t just down five courses, I got a steaming plateful of roast suckling pig with brussel sprouts.  I urge you to schedule a trip to Komi as soon as possible, and when you make your res, mention in a trembling, obsequious voice that you heard they are serving suckling pig and could they please reserve one for you? It’s tender. It’s cooked for six hundred hours over mesquite and something else (that slipped my boozy memory at the time) to intensify the flavor. It’s falling off the bone. The aroma could drive you to tears.  It is also a perfect showcase for JM’s genius of extracting every last drop of flavor from an ingredient.

Oh my. I had the pleasure on Thursday of tucking into the succulent pig and just saw Nadya's description... spot on. It's sort of a wintery dish — pork, polenta, bacon, apples, brussel sprouts — but just as appetizing regardless of the temperature outdoors. I love roasted brussel sprouts and these were small, tender and nicely browned on the outside. Even better, they had absorbed the bacon flavor. The pig, as Nadya said, literally fell off the bone with the slightest fork pressure. I was tempted to suck on the bone when all was said and done and I had scrapped the plate clean. :P

The orecchiette with lamb sausage and rapini was also fabulous, with a nice amount of heat (from the sausage?). Overall, a memorable meal.

Edited by oliveDC
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Watermelon with feta cheese and wild arugula with spiced crushed hazelnut and olive oil. This great little teaser is a perfect example of Chef Monis pairing the unconventional with terrific results – the flavors of every single ingredient are so pure and combine so well in your mouth without melting into each other. 

What a beautiful post. I've wanted to go there but haven't yet and this is an incentive.

I loved the description of this salad and did my best to duplicate it. It was crushed almonds instead of hazelnuts but otherwise the same. My husband enjoyed it and he doesn't even usually like watermelon. What an amazing combination. I hope to get to Komi soon.

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For the Komi addicts, Johnny "Eccelenza" Monis reports they will be taking a break for the summer vacation, I believe early September or late August, so keep in mind while making reservations.

Edited by Nadya
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REALLY long-time lurker, first-time poster.

My husband took me to Komi for my 29th birthday last month. It was a very special night with excellent service in a casual setting.

First, we were treated to complimentary glasses of champagne for my birthday, which I thought was a very nice touch. Our server did not interrupt us and try to hurry us to order while I opened my birthday gifts and we caught up on our day. I've too often felt in DC that we are being rushed in order to turn over the table, (granted, this was a Thursday night).

I was torn between the gnocchi and the sea urchin risotto as the appetizer course. I decided that nothing could compare to the gnocchi at Palena Cafe, so I went with the risotto. Imagine my dismay when our server told me that they were out of BOTH courses! Fortunately, she came back a few minutes later to let me know that there was one order of risotto left and it was mine...

Much has already been written about the food, in much more eloquent words that I could muster, so I will only add that the risotto was the highlight of the evening for me. It tasted like the essence of the sea. My husband had the oysters, which, he confirmed, also tasted incredibly fresh. We both had the bronzini (sp?), which we also both enjoyed. What we found so notable was the freshness of the ingredients, and that the chef's preparation complimented those ingredients, instead of drowning them out (and being "heavy") or not doing enough, leaving a dish too bland. We shared the doughnuts for dessert, excellent as well, which came out with a birthday candle.

What impressed us most about Komi was not only the food, but the whole ambiance. It felt like a casual, neighborhood place, but the food and service were both tremendously "upscale" and elegant. Yet, there wasn't an ounce of pretention and snobbishness that I feel at places at that price point. Around us were people in shorts and sandals, but I didn't feel out of place getting a bit dressed up for a special occasion. (In that regard, when we went to Seattle the following week and dined at Lark, we both thought of Komi-- the excellent food and service but in a casual setting.)

We both concluded that it was one of the best meals we've had in DC for a while.

I'd love to go back for the tasting menu that I've read about--- is it only on certain nights, or did I have to ask for it?

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(In that regard, when we went to Seattle the following week and dined at Lark, we both thought of Komi-- the excellent food and service but in a casual setting.)

Hi DC in DC,

I had dinner at Lark several weeks ago, and I would put that restaurant at-or-near the top of my favorite meals this year - I cannot think of a more apt comparison between two restaurants than Lark and Komi.

Cheers,

Rocks.

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Komi does seem to have a bit of a West Coast vibe to me too, that I really like. Much more in common with restaurants in San Francisco than New York or other places I've been in teh Northeast.

Edited by bilrus
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Much has already been written about the food, in much more eloquent words that I could muster,

Do NOT sell yourself short! Your report is excellent, descriptive, helpful and fun, and I look forward to hearing more opinions from you. And i haven't been to Lark, but your opinion of Komi echoes mine. Easily one of the best meals I've ever had in DC, if not THE best meal I've had.

I think you should just mention tasting when you make your reservation.

Glad you're with us. And happy birthday. I'll be 29 myself later this year. :P

Edited by CrescentFresh
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I wanted to follow the sage advice of you all and order the tasting menu, but alas it was not to be. We got off to a bit of a late start and my pregissima wife was not up to a nine-course, labor-inducing extravaganza. Next time.

We had a wonderful dinner all the same. Chef Monis's house-made crackers were an immediate hit, and I couldn't help but wonder if he is thinking of marketing these somehow. We were generously offered a few amuses to start: a house made water-cracker topped with scrambled duck egg and osetra caviar; a delicious, succulent specimen of an oyster dressed with a bit of pomegranate vinegar and pepper cream; and dates stuffed with mascarpone. All were excellent, carefully presented, and showed the Mediterranean/Greek influences and flavors that were to prevail the rest of the evening.

Marinated fresh sardines were tangy and briny, but not so much as to overpower the freshness and texture of the fish. Ravioli with roast goat and mint was oversalted but otherwise it was a perfect dish: the barnyardy aroma of goat brightened by a chiffonade of fresh mint leaves, with plump pillows of perfectly prepared pasta. (Perhaps chefs Power and Monis should have a goat ravioli contest, with us all as the lucky judges.) The dayboat scallops with golden tomatoes, haricots verts and cucumber were an inspired combination, and it's obvious that Chef Monis put a good deal of thought into the flavors and textures of this dish. I found the cucumber garnish somewhat overpowering, and the scallops--probably in the commendable interest of serving us our entrees simultaneously--had been out of the pan a tad too long before they were served. But these are quibbles; overall the dish was very enjoyable. Other dishes were a sea urchin risotto in lobster stock garnished with sea urchin roe (exquisite) and a bronzino with fingerlings, which I didn't try but which drew raves from the person who did. We finished with a rich goat cheese panna cotta garnished with a compote of fruit whose name now escapes me (a memory lapse partially due to two bottles of white Penedes that were an excellent accompaniment to nearly all the courses).

Service, by the estimable Sebastian and our server Anna, was excellent throughout the evening; we were offered some roast suckling pig that had been cooking during the day. We had to pass after so much other delightful fare. But perhaps next time I'll indulge in the grande bouffe, and there certainly will be a next time.

Edited by Banco
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Last Saturday, my friend and I were making rounds at supposedly chic parties. An hour into it, tired of retarded banter and cookie-cutter lines, we looked at each other.

"Wanna blow this pop stand and hit Komi instead?"

"Call them. Beg for a table."

Twenty minutes later, we were happily ensconced at a table in wonderful, noisy, beloved Komi. My love for the place is well-documented by now. Biographers looking to reconstruct my life many years from now will, no doubt, have a rich base from which to draw. Regardless, I would love to pay my respect and admiration for two of many things that blew me away:

- Sea urchin risotto. Some dishes really do make you wish for colder weather. That's saying a lot because my hate of cold is also well-documented. But this dish, with its rich creaminess, rice carrying the flavors so well but retaining its texture, fantastic saucing and a sliver of raw urchin on top, made me wish it was late fall with its crisp nights, knee-high boots, and oh yeah, sea urchin risotto enjoyed with abandon.

- Marinated anchovies with cherry tomatoes and micro-basil. This is a dish Chef Monis was playing with that night, and we were only too happy to try. When you think of anchovies, "plump" and "juicy" are not necessarily the first things that come to mind, now are they? Well, the Komi Anchovy is all those things, bursting with tart lemon-infused taste, prettily offset by tomatoes and basil. Too bad it would most likely be gone when tomatoes are gone, so get your bottom to Komi very soon.

- Gracious, non-intrusive, competent and polished service. Wine appears as if by magic. Crumpled napkins turn into crisp linen squares. Never a dirty utensil in sight. That's polish, baby.

It was good to be back and see Johnny and Sebastian back doing their thing after a well-deserved vacation. A few years ago in Lubbock, TX, I heard this:

"They told me it was Texas culture.

But it was only railroad gin."

Well, I thought it was the end-of-summer blues.

But it was only Komi withdrawal.

Thanks to Chef Monis, Fabulous Sebastian, and our very own Little Wing for another fantastic night. Life is good again.

Edited by Nadya
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There aren’t many chefs that can evoke an emotional reaction in me: Frank Ruta does it on occasion, Koji Terano and Tom Power have done it, perhaps because they both caught me off-guard. Ashley Christensen at Enoteca Vin in Raleigh did, Chris Bianco of Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix did, but I’d be hard-pressed to think of any others within the past year, one exception being Johnny Monis.

In this post, Fabio Trabocchi and Eric Ziebold are justifiably lauded for being two world-class chefs under 35-years old in Washington, but Johnny Monis belongs right up there with them, as a peer, and not as some sort of “young future talent.” He’s delivering the full measure of his considerable abilities, right here, right now, at Komi, and it’s time he's considered as one of the truly great chefs in the area.

Have you ever read a novel that you simply didn’t want to end, a book so compelling that as you were reading the final pages, a sense of sadness came over you because you were going to be finished with it, and you knew you were going to have to start another book that just wouldn’t be the same? That’s what it’s like finishing your meal at Komi. You don’t want to leave, you don’t want it to stop, and you can’t imagine that anything else could take its place.

It pays to capitulate here, to roll over, to give yourself over to the $89 tasting menu and not try and outthink the situation. Turn yourself over to the great Sebastian Zutant, and let him pilot your evening, while Johnny Monis powers the engine of your meal. You’ll be glad you did, rewarded with multiple courses, several amuses-gueules, a cheese course, and desserts, all equal to the best that this city has to offer, and all leaving you shaking your head at how it’s possible that Komi doesn’t have a month-long reservation list, and that you could simply walk in and have a world-class meal with such little fuss.

A St. Germain Blanc de Blancs from Crancout, France is a perfect aperitif to two great chilled oysters: a Malpeque and a Kumamoto, served on a bed of shaved ice. And then a bottle of 2003 Kir-Yianni Samaropetra white from Macedonia is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer and the indigenous varietal Roditis. The Sauvignon Blanc is the dominant grape, but the nose is cut by the Gewurz, and the flavors are tamed by the interesting Roditis. It’s a great wine to explore the lighter depths of Johnny’s cuisine, and can sail through from first-to-last course. Look!

A marscapone-filled date was one of the singularly great two-bite food items I’ve had in a long time, having increcible texture, flavor and depth. Then a simple salad of arugula with porcinis, shaved squash and parmesan with balsamico appears, and you’re like, “big deal.” Until you try it, and your knees buckle under the complexity of every individual item on the dish. Proscuitto San Danielle with blistered black mission figs is served atop extra-virgin soaked bread and shaved Reggiano, and a charred sweet-corn and uni (uni!) risotto comes out set low in the bowl as a brilliant rift on a fried egg. When the next course arrived, I told Sebastian I needed to abbreviate the meal and leave soon, knowing that I was going to come home and write this. But I took one bite of the pappardelle with milk-roasted goat ragu (the milk needing to be changed every thirty minutes) and shavings of buffalo-cheese in the style of pecorino, and I just started laughing and thinking to myself, this is ridiculous!

I’ve dined at Komi several times in the past, and I’ve pretty much known that this posting was going to eventually be written – it’s long overdue. Johnny Monis is a brilliant chef, Sebastian Zutant is a great GM, and the staff is young, caring and kind. This is a no-brainer: Komi will soon have a national reputation as a destination restaurant for tourists coming here. In the interim, enjoy it while you can, and be thankful for the great people working here, the gentle pricing, and by all means, shake your head in disbelief when you try your food, just as I did tonight.

In no uncertain terms, I’m officially throwing my full weight behind Komi as one of the very best and most important restaurants in the Washington DC area.

Cheers,

Rocks.

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It pays to capitulate here, to roll over, to give yourself over to the $89 tasting menu and not try and outthink the situation.  Turn yourself over to the great Sebastian Zutant, and let him pilot your evening, while Johnny Monis powers the engine of your meal.  You’ll be glad you did, rewarded with multiple courses, several amuses-gueules, a cheese course.

Agree completely. Quoting myself, but what the hell:

"If Komi were a man, I’d stay with him forever.

Not for good looks. Not for sublime attention to detail. Not for the kissyface.

I’d do it for the incredibly consistent delivery of gastronomic experiences that are never predictable but always wonderful. You never know what’s coming, but you always leave giddy with delight. In short, Komi would be a kind of man who would blindfold me, tie me up, say “trust me”…and I would, with no hesitation.

That’s love, baby."

Fantastic how two of the greatest minds of DR came to the same conclusion. The best attitude at Komi is:

Joyful Submission

Edited by Nadya
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Does Komi have a website?

I don't know how often the chef tasting menu changes, but I presume that some of the dishes we enjoyed on September 24 would be included if you were to go...

Kunamoto Oyster Greek yogurt, pomegranate vinegar

St. Germain Blancs de Blancs, NV Crancout, France

Squash & Mushroom Salad wild arugula, parmigiano, aged balsamic

Proscuitto roasted figs, grilled bread, olive oil

Kir-Yanni Samropetra, 2003 Naousa, Greece

Mezzethaki risokete, marinated zucchini, olives, beet tzatziki, white bean salad

Sea Urchin Risotto lobster stock, vanilla sea urchin butter

Macon-Lugny, 2003 Burgundy, France

Paparadelle milk roasted baby goat ragu, parmigiano

Fleurie Gamay, 2002 Beaujolais, France

Speck Wrapped White Tuna warm farro salas

Miguel Torres Syrah, 2003 Maule Valley, Chile

Spit Roasted Suckling Pig soft polenta, brussel sprouts

Marbore Tempranillo, 2000 Somotano, Spain

White Peach Gelato & Chilled Chocolate Souffle

Voulet Sparkling Malvasia Rosa, 2002 Casorzo, Italy

Lillypilly Noble Blend, 2002 Leeton, Australia

Marenco Moscato D'Asti, 2003 Strevi, Italy

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I am finally making it back to Komi this weekend to celebrate and have a couple of questions.

Does anyone remember how much the tasting menu is without the wine and is there anything I absolutely cannot miss (besides the donuts which I am dreaming of each night in anticipation)? Anything with sea urchin sounds divine.....

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I am finally making it back to Komi this weekend to celebrate and have a couple of questions.

Does anyone remember how much the tasting menu is without the wine and is there anything I absolutely cannot miss (besides the donuts which I am dreaming of each night in anticipation)?  Anything with sea urchin sounds divine.....

I think it is around $90/person. Just sit back, relax, and don't worry about what you might 'miss'. :lol:

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The tasting menu no longer appears as an option on the regular menu, but it is available. My suggestion is that if you plan on having the tasting menu to mention it at the time you make your reservation (or to otherwise make them aware ahead of time). And I agree that the wine pairing is a bargain. When dining, my recommendation is to put yourself in Sebastian's very capable hands when it comes to the wine and the cheese. And also to genuflect to the chef when leaving.

Edited by Jacques Gastreaux
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