Ray's The Classics, Silver Spring - Michael Landrum's Classic Steakhouse Sold To His Trusted Employees

[Michael Landrum]

Just a heads up--after service on New Year's Eve, beginning on January 1, Ray's The Classics will be closed for a hiatus of undetermined duration.

I'll post futher information as it becomes available, and in the meantime, no need to post speculations or rumors or questions I can't answer.

Ray's The Steaks will be open as usual, closed the 1st, reopening the 2nd, 7 days a week. This year, by the way, Ray's The Steaks is not taking reservations on New Year's Eve and is serving our regular menu, so everyone still has an equal and open chance for a table that night without being forced into an unwanted extravaganza of excess. Ninety minute rule minute rule in effect.

Hope everyone is having a great holiday season and will have a great New Year!

[mhberk]

Our neighbors have offered to babysit, so we are off to RTC tonight for our first time dining out since our daughter's birth (11/11).

ETA: It looks like they don't have anything available until 9:45 , so I guess it's off to Lebanese Taverna in Woodly Park

[DanielK]

Our neighbors have offered to babysit, so we are off to RTC tonight for our first time dining out since our daughter's birth (11/11).

ETA: It looks like they don't have anything available until 9:45

Go now and get a bar table.

[mhberk]

Go now and get a bar table.

We thought about that, but this is our first time back out and we wanted something a little more intimate

[Marty L.]

Just a heads up--after service on New Year's Eve, beginning on January 1, Ray's The Classics will be closed for a hiatus of undetermined duration.

Michael: I hope everything's ok. Can you perchance answer this? Last week I gave someone a gift certificate to RTC. Are they safe holding onto it? (They live a few blocks away from RTC, and therefore RTS is something of a schlep.) Or should they try to get a reservation for the next couple of days? Thanks

[bookluvingbabe]

Sigh...

We had plans to hit the bar on Friday and then Mr. BLB had oral surgery and said in a very small sad voice that he could just have soup.

No problem. We can go next week when you feel better I said. No sense going if you can't eat the fried chicken.

No baby-sitter until Wednesday and BLBaby doesn't fit on the table quietly anymore. Besides the bar specials are only Mon-Friday, right?

Michael, I hope you reopen soon. My dining life can't take more disappointments.

Jennifer

[Michael Landrum]

Michael: I hope everything's ok. Can you perchance answer this? Last week I gave someone a gift certificate to RTC. Are they safe holding onto it? (They live a few blocks away from RTC, and therefore RTS is something of a schlep.) Or should they try to get a reservation for the next couple of days? Thanks

Yes, all will be redeemed.

[xcanuck]

Yes, all will be redeemed.

Regardless of what sins we've committed?? Wow - I'm going to call you St. Michael from now on!

[Marty L.]

A friend just called for reservations and reports being told that RTC would be reopening in a couple of weeks after some freshening up. Let's hope that's correct!

[Michael Landrum]

Yes, all will be redeemed.

By the way, it should be noted--unlike other restaurants', our gift certificates do not have an expiration date.

Why others do is beyond me, and why anyone would accept that is even more so.

[DinerGirl]

Does anyone know why Ray's the Classics is no longer doing alcohol and only doing beer and wine? We didn't really get a straight answer from anyone there. And sometimes a girl just needs a sidecar before ordering dinner, damnit.

[DinerGirl]

Please no speculation

How is that speculation? It's a question.

We went there for dinner on January 20th, I ordered a Manahttan and was told they're only serving beer and wine and no other alcohol. When we asked why, the server said they didn't "want to share a reason."

Just wondered if anyone knew why, because that kind of communication from that restaurant was uncharacteristic of the place.

Jeesh.

[mdt]

How is that speculation? It's a question.

We went there for dinner on January 20th, I ordered a Manahttan and was told they're only serving beer and wine and no other alcohol. When we asked why, the server said they didn't "want to share a reason."

Just wondered if anyone knew why, because that kind of communication from that restaurant was uncharacteristic of the place.

Jeesh.

I think he was preempting any posts from folks that think they may know why they are not serving alcohol. Of course it could also be a snide comment from previous postings.

[Michael Landrum]

If it's a verboten topic, then just forget it. It's not that big a deal to me.

If Don wishes to unlock the Ray's The Classics thread--which I suspect he doesn't since, when the subject is Ray's, the dialogue typically becomes, unfortunately, somewhat uncivil rather quickly, as you can see--I will be more than happy to answer your question at length. In the meantime, my apologies for the answer you received, it was neither correct nor appropriate.

[Michael Landrum]

Why is anything having to do with Ray's so taboo?

I believe it is because what I do so often goes against the mainstream of DC dining (and at times against common sense and logic), and is so often given to, at the same time, both misunderstanding and exagerated support, that Ray's is defended at times with a misplaced loyalty and ferocity.

As to my own impassioned stances which sometimes rub people the wrong way or outright offend with their seeming ferocity, they are limited to three things: the defense of the respect and integrity of my staff to not be assumed to be of diminished value due to position or background; the defense against personal slights or the assumption of malignant motives if the best-effort attempts to respectfully serve guests should fall short of that guest's expectations; and the defense of my principles in my mission to serve the community fairly and equally regardless of privilege, entitlement or wealth.

Of course, the ant under the magnifying glass usually ends up getting fried.

[mdjordy]

If Don wishes to unlock the Ray's The Classics thread--which I suspect he doesn't since, when the subject is Ray's, the dialogue typically becomes somewhat uncivil rather quickly, as you can see--I will be more than happy to answer your question at length. In the meantime, my apologies for the answer you received, it was neither correct nor appropriate.

ok...so what is the deal with RTC and hard liquor? I have enjoyed a few drinks at the bar in the past...

[edenman]

Of course, the ant under the magnifying glass usually ends up getting fried.

The new hot dish at Classics:

[Scott Johnston]

Michael,

If you need help finding a good home for some recently displaced bottles, I will gladly and willingly be a gracious host for said bottles, till there comes a time when their spirits have departed from this earth.

That being said.... I will be at RTS tonight for a meat fix, enjoy some rude service (in the eyes of some), treat said server as royalty, and leave feeling better than I did coming in.

[DinerGirl]

I've actually been trying to reach you via PM, but it seems I'm being blocked or you've not enabled PMs.

If Don wishes to unlock the Ray's The Classics thread--which I suspect he doesn't since, when the subject is Ray's, the dialogue typically becomes, unfortunately, somewhat uncivil rather quickly, as you can see--I will be more than happy to answer your question at length. In the meantime, my apologies for the answer you received, it was neither correct nor appropriate.

[Heather]

The Montgomery County Department of Liquor Control board ratio reports are a wealth of information about sales of food and alcohol for each establishment. The cost of maintaining the hard alcohol license, $2,500 per year, is negligible cost considering the potential return on investment. I am curious to hear the promised explanation.

Does it really matter why? They've obviously decided to offer only beer and wine. Why aren't we haranguing Derek about the lack of booze at Komi?

I'm considering keeping a bottle of gin behind the counter, like during prohibition.

ETA: his inbox is full. And if I were him, I'd keep it that way.

[Capital Icebox]

Does it really matter why? They've obviously decided to offer only beer and wine. Why aren't we haranguing Derek about the lack of booze at Komi?

Maybe because Komi doesn't have a bar?

I think if a place stopped serving hard drinks, though, it'd be fair to ask why, or at least if they had really stopped serving them. It's so touchy about RTC around here...

The sacred cow goes Mooooooo!

[danfishe]

Maybe because Komi doesn't have a bar?

I think if a place stopped serving hard drinks, though, it'd be fair to ask why, or at least if they had really stopped serving them. It's so touchy about RTC around here...

The sacred cow goes Mooooooo!

I agree completely. It is not clear to me why Mr. Landrum feel it is appropriate to use the forum as a soapbox for your opinions about the proper way to run a restaurant, and then refuse to engage with perfectly acceptable and reasonable questions about your establishments.

[hmmboy]

I agree completely. It is not clear to me why Mr. Landrum feel it is appropriate to use the forum as a soapbox for your opinions about the proper way to run a restaurant, and then refuse to engage with perfectly acceptable and reasonable questions about your establishments.

You are entitled to your opinion but I think your charachterization is unfair - and this comes from someone who treats no cow as more sacred than the next. Mr. Landrum does not use this forum as a soapbox and I think it is perfectly reasonable for him to answer or refrain from answering any question - acceptable or otherwise - posed to him on this site. Just as it is perfectly reasonable for you or anyone else to ask them.

[Michael Landrum]

I agree completely. It is not clear to me why Mr. Landrum feel it is appropriate to use the forum as a soapbox for your opinions about the proper way to run a restaurant, and then refuse to engage with perfectly acceptable and reasonable questions about your establishments.

Agreed.

If you read upthread you will see that I have been waiting for this thread to become unlocked in order to respond (it has been locked more often than not because dialogue on this thread usually degenerates to uncivil discourse rather rapidly). (The above posts were actually on the Ray's The Steaks thread while the Ray's The Classics thread was closed. Since Don had closed this thread for a reason, I did not feel it appropriate to continue this dialogue there, but rather respected Don's decision until he felt it possible to re-open, unwisely, I am sure he now may feel, this one).

Right now I am in the last stages of getting open for Saturday night service and therefore do not have the time.

If the thread has not been locked again by 1 am or so when I will finish the shift, I promise I will answer all questions openly and respectfully, as I fully have intended to from the outset.

For the record, I never prescribe what is a proper way to run a restaurant, only attempt to explain how and why I run mine. It is of some interest and entertaining to some people, and trust me, I pay for it more than I gain.

Many people assiduously avoid this thread, as well as my restaurants, and even refuse to read any post with my name attached. These are choices available to all.

[Spiral Stairs]

I agree completely. It is not clear to me why Mr. Landrum feel it is appropriate to use the forum as a soapbox for your opinions about the proper way to run a restaurant, and then refuse to engage with perfectly acceptable and reasonable questions about your establishments.

Has he "refused to engage" or simply not gotten around to answering? He did say, after all, he'd be happy to answer once the thread was opened.

That said, I personally don't see any problem with asking, speculating, guessing in an educated manner, or otherwise discussing a change in a restaurant as significant as this change. If some restaurant whose proprietor is not on this board made this change and a discussion about ensued, no one would bat an eyelash.

[danfishe]

You are entitled to your opinion but I think your charachterization is unfair - and this comes from someone who treats no cow as more sacred than the next. Mr. Landrum does not use this forum as a soapbox and I think it is perfectly reasonable for him to answer or refrain from answering any question - acceptable or otherwise - posed to him on this site.

Wait a second. He continually uses these boards to expound on his philosophy of running his restaurants. I assume you don't dispute that; I can provide you cites if you do. If he is going to do that, and refuse to answer perfectly legitimate questions about his restaurants, what do you call that? Seems pretty close to disingenuous to me, or at a minimum not participating in the board in good faith. He of course has no duty to answer any question but once a restaurateur takes it upon himself to actively discuss his establishment, I think an obligation arises to answer basic questions that arise.

[danfishe]

Agreed.

If you read upthread you will see that I have been waiting for this thread to become unlocked in order to respond (it has been locked more often than not because dialogue on this thread usually degenerates to uncivil discourse rather rapidly).

Right now I am in the last stages of getting open for Saturday night service and therefore do not have the time.

If the thread has not been locked again by 1 am or so when I will finish the shift, I promise I will answer all questions openly and respectfully, as I fully have intended to from the outset.

For the record, I never prescribe what is a proper way to run a restaurant, only attempt to explain how and why I run mine.

Many people assiduously avoid this thread, as well as my restaurants, and even refuse to read any post with my name attached. These are choices available to all.

That is certainly fair enough and I look forward to your post.

[MarkS]

Folks..Get a life

Speculating on what Michael does, means and will say tells me you need a life.. Go make 100 PB&J sandwiches for the homeless and come back.

To me..This board is about the dining experience which equate to food+service+atmosphere+circumstance and a whole lot more.

The steaks are great and so are the sides..The wine list works as well. The last time I was there Micheal waited on my family, went back to cut and cook the steaks and then served then. Who can ask for more.

If I had the free time I'd volunteer as an aprentice just like I used to do at L'academie

Possibly the only fault I hav ewith the place is that I can't BYOB...Maybe someday I can befriend Michael and make that happen.

Bottom line is he's busy creating great food and a great experience.. and He can do what he wants without everyone on this board putting him under a microscope.

[danfishe]

Folks..Get a life

Speculating on what Michael does, means and will say tells me you need a life.. Go make 100 PB&J sandwiches for the homeless and come back.

To me..This board is about the dining experience which equate to food+service+atmosphere+circumstance and a whole lot more.

The steaks are great and so are the sides..The wine list works as well. The last time I was there Micheal waited on my family, went back to cut and cook the steaks and then served then. Who can ask for more.

If I had the free time I'd volunteer as an aprentice just like I used to do at L'academie

Possibly the only fault I hav ewith the place is that I can't BYOB...Maybe someday I can befriend Michael and make that happen.

Bottom line is he's busy creating great food and a great experience.. and He can do what he wants without everyone on this board putting him under a microscope.

Ah, the quality of discourse I've come to expect from the Rays' defenders...oh well, I'll try posting again next year.

[Michael Landrum]

Folks..Get a life

Speculating on what Michael does, means and will say tells me you need a life.. Go make 100 PB&J sandwiches for the homeless and come back.

To me..This board is about the dining experience which equate to food+service+atmosphere+circumstance and a whole lot more.

The steaks are great and so are the sides..The wine list works as well. The last time I was there Micheal waited on my family, went back to cut and cook the steaks and then served then. Who can ask for more.

If I had the free time I'd volunteer as an aprentice just like I used to do at L'academie

Possibly the only fault I hav ewith the place is that I can't BYOB...Maybe someday I can befriend Michael and make that happen.

Bottom line is he's busy creating great food and a great experience.. and He can do what he wants without everyone on this board putting him under a microscope.

To be fair, I do invite this--both with my outspokenness and with my active participation on this board which--while rarely the primary intent--can not help but be an act of self-promotion.

I do take pains to ensure that my use of this board is repaid in greater value either by community-strengthening activities, informing and educating to the point of revealing proprietary information and trade secrets, and entertainment.

Also, to be fair, if it wasn't myself doing it, I think I probably be the first to take issue with my participation here, and to do so most loudly.

Kind of a conundrum, eh?

[wysguymd]

Kind of off topic.... haha... but I have been wanting to try Rays for awhile. However, I'm a very picky eater and don't like to go to restaurants without seeing a menu online first. Does Ray's in SS have a website? Also, are reservations a must?

[monsterriffs]

Kind of off topic.... haha... but I have been wanting to try Rays for awhile. However, I'm a very picky eater and don't like to go to restaurants without seeing a menu online first. Does Ray's in SS have a website? Also, are reservations a must?

The answer is no and maybe to the former and latter respectively. If you want to eat in the dining room, you'd probably need a reservation, but usually the bar area is pretty accessible to walk-ins.

But, honestly, for menu items that have been available recently, just scroll back a couple of pages in this thread and you'll be up to speed with what's on the menu. Hands-down, the top recommendation is generally the hanger steak, which is beyond excellent. Personally, I am a booster of the jumbo prawns in diablo sauce.

[synaesthesia]

Soapbox, shmoapbox. With all the boxes we got around this joint about what's good and what isn't, it's just about nearly level playing field. I appreciate the POV that Michael brings to the board. One man's trash is another man's treasure. His outspokenness educates the rest of us in a way that other owners don't. And it cracks me up that the man can't take a vacation without causing a ruckus.

And I think he also has the right not to answer certain questions speculating his restaurant's financial status, as many seem wont to ask about. If you think he oughta tell, please feel free to post your annual salary. I'm curious to see how I stack up.

P.S. You're going to get in SO much trouble for all your triple-spacing. =D

-----

Ray's doesn't have a web site, so I suggest looking through the thread. And I dunno about reservations. =D

[DanielK]

Also, are reservations a must?

My experience is that you can walk in just about any weeknight without a reservation, and get a table in short order.

Friday and Saturday nights, book at least a week in advance, more if you are particular about time or have a large party. They take reservations roughly 30 days in advance.

[diannesh]

Anyone have comments about the food?

We enjoyed our visit this past week to the bar. The salmon was great, as was the fried chicken. Word was that there is a "chicken fried steak" nearing perfection.

And besides the food, it is so damn comfortable (unlike another place downtown that has great food, but bar stools that are made for Ashley and Mary-Kate). And the check? half the price!

[hm212]

I ate dinner at the bar Thursday night and the food was as great as ever. Had the bar deal -

Crab Bisque

Hangar Steak - medium rare

sides of mashed and creamed spinach

dessert of chocolate cake ala mode

EVERYTHING as wonderful as ever including the atmosphere and bar service.

Anyone have comments about the food?

We enjoyed our visit this past week to the bar. The salmon was great, as was the fried chicken. Word was that there is a "chicken fried steak" nearing perfection.

And besides the food, it is so damn comfortable (unlike another place downtown that has great food, but bar stools that are made for Ashley and Mary-Kate). And the check? half the price!

[DanCole42]

Kind of off topic.... haha... but I have been wanting to try Rays for awhile. However, I'm a very picky eater and don't like to go to restaurants without seeing a menu online first. Does Ray's in SS have a website? Also, are reservations a must?

Depends on what you mean by "picky." I've always considered as a mark of a supremely excellent restaurant serving me something I would ordinarily avoid in such a way that makes me question my avoidance.

Really, though, I've never met a picky eater who couldn't at least stomach a plain old steak*, of which RTC has many. I think you'll definitely find something to like.

*"Plain old" in the sense of Shakespeare being a "plain old playwright."

[DanCole42]

Word was that there is a "chicken fried steak" nearing perfection.

Anyone have any more info on this? I know the dish is usually done with cube steak (pounded or reconstituted sirloin or top round).

[mdt]

Ah, the quality of discourse I've come to expect from the Rays' defenders...oh well, I'll try posting again next year.

I honestly cannot figure out why his answer is so important. To each his own I guess.

I want to hear more about the chicken fried steak!

[wysguymd]

Really, though, I've never met a picky eater who couldn't at least stomach a plain old steak*, of which RTC has many. I think you'll definitely find something to like.

Well, now you've met one. ;o) I don't eat steak or seafood. Which limits me to chicken or pasta.

It's really a disservice when a restaurant doesn't have a website with a menu. I can't imagine having a business without one.

[Heather]

I honestly cannot figure out why his answer is so important. To each his own I guess.

I can't either, Mike.

Well, now you've met one. ;o) I don't eat steak or seafood. Which limits me to chicken or pasta.

I haven't been in a couple of months, but if the menu hasn't changed substantially then there is chicken on the bar menu, a rather substantial macaroni and cheese side (really enough for a whole meal), and a vegetarian main dish. No chicken or pasta main dishes on the dinner menu.

It's really a disservice when a restaurant doesn't have a website with a menu. I can't imagine having a business without one.

You could call the restaurant.

[mbely100]

I don't know about all of this hard liquor explanation stuff (nor do I think I really care), but from my 8-10 visits to RTC, Mr. Landrum runs a pretty good restaurant with good employees.

My oldest daughter (5) has severe allergies including beef, dairy, wheat, eggs and soy among other things. You would not think that a steakhouse would be a very good fit for her. However, she loves lamb, so i decided to call RTC to see if they could accomodate her dietary restrictions. The manager on duty at the time (very polite and helpful fellow, I wish I remembered his name so he could get the recognition he deserves), assured me that he could put together a menu she could eat including broiled lamb chops with no seasoning and steamed broccoli w/o butter. Upon his assurance, I decided to bring my family of four (my wife, 5 year old and 3 year old) at 6:00 PM on a Monday or Tuesday, I can't remember which, in order to avoid crowds.

I arrived and reminded the manager of our conversation and he was ready for us. He seated us immediately behind a party of 4 middle aged looking folks. My 5 year old with the allergies was excited about my promised lamb chop dinner and was acting a little exuberant. In her exuberance, when I was taking off her jacket, she accidently kicked the back of the booth. A women from the party of four behind us let out a harrumph and complained (I don't remember the exact language) about the disturbance to me directly. My wife immediately recognized that this was going to be an ongoing issue, so she asked the manager for a new table. The manager quickly responded that everything would be all right and that we should stay at our table. I may be wrong, but I am pretty sure I saw a look in his face that said, "I want you to stay there because these people behind you are being unreasonable and they don't deserve to get their own way." Of course, the fact that I was thinking that same thing may have clouded my interpretation of his look.

My wife then politely insisted that we should move to another table and after a little bit more insistence that we stay, the manager was more than happy to oblige. Our meal come out allergen free and delicious as always and RTC kept a customer with deft customer service. I have to say that I can't afford to spend $40+ on a five year old's dinner, but I don't mind doing it every so often when it comes with great service and the peace of mind that the kitchen pays attention (most don't) to allergy restrictions.

I have read this entire thread on RTC (and all of the drama and controversies), I read about the controversy between Mr. Landrum and Mr. Fisher from the WaPost, and even though I have not had any personal interactions with Mr. Landrum (which, in my opinion, seems pretty necessary before attacking someone personally, but I digress), I have to say that he has a very good staff and I have to compliment him for his staff selection skills. And when dining out, THAT is what I am looking for in a restauranteur, not a "nice guy" or a friend (For the record, Mr. Landrum may very well be a nice guy, I just believe that this determination cannot be made from simply reading an internet forum).

Just my two cents.

[Michael Landrum]

Not that we aren't all tired of the subject, but I really would like to explain exactly why we are eliminating what is such a core, and to some, a necessary, service of a full-service restaurant.

First let me say that I think that people's concerns, curiousity, criticisms and complaints in this matter are perfectly legitimate and that it is a shame if people do not feel able to express them freely here. I also think that it is perfectly legitimate and reasonable to expect, even demand, an explanation from me (I put my business out here enough that people have the right to ask me just what the hell it is) for such a drastic change--one would have been much more immediately forth-coming had I but world enough and time.

Coyness is never my crime, what with so many other more entertaining transgressions available to me.

First and foremost, to take full responsibility for the part that our shortcomings play in this decision I will state: The simple, most immediate, and at this point, unfortunately, unavoidable reason for the switch to beer and wine only is to address long-running, intractable service issues that have detracted from the experience at Ray's:: The Classics from the beginning. This being said, it follows that I hope that this is only a temporary measure.

The great majority of service issues at Ray's The Classics are either directly related to cocktail service or the direct result of cocktail service, say, to another party in your server's station, disproportionately demanding the time, attention and resources of the entire service team. This stems from two main, inter-related causes.

The first is that we have never had enough regular, consistent bar business throughout the evening to adequately staff the bar area for the brief period peak demand and still allow for the reasonable expectation of a decent, minimal, worthwhile livelihood for the bar team. I can hear the objections at this point--"What does that matter, it is the restaurant's job to provide that service, even if it must subsidize the wages of its staff in order to do so"--and I concur, and in fact, for quite some time I did, except for this second, inter-related, but much more debilitating and disruptive reason which ultimately forced my hand.

That is: the vast majority of cocktail service in the dining room, which is a negligible amount of overall sales (I will give numbers later), which so much disrupts the overall service to all parties, comes NOT in addition to wine service, but rather IN PLACE of wine service, further exacerbating the logistical issues of cocktail service and forcing a far greater percentage of wine sales than I have seen into the by-the glass-category--thereby also disrupting a wine program which requires tremendous effort to establish and maintain, and one which ultimately suffers because of this.

I will be very clear here, this is not an issue on an individual basis, but in the aggregate it is so counter-indicatory to the goals and aims of my core mission here in Silver Spring as to be no longer supportable, maintainable or possible.

I will also be very clear here, at the risk (actually the peasure) of antagonizing an element of the population whose culture--but not the people themselves, natch--I quite frankly and openly despise (and with the added pleasure of quite likely antagonizing the non-Food Section columnists at the Post whose writing panders to, celebrates, and holds that culture up to be the greatest pinnacle of human accomplishment): this phenomenon is almost entirely attributable to the wealthy, status-, media-, and entitlement-driven portion of Montgomery County and similar, like-minded environs--our least gracious and least content guests--and NOT our local Silver Spring community (just like my out-of-context, lazily-expropriated-from-this-site quote that the gossip gals ran did not refer to my cherished Arlington neighbors and other beloved, loyal clientele, only to the relentless harpies of the DC of privilege) and a culture which, specifically to AVOID having to cater to, I underwent the challenges of operating in Silver Spring (in addition to all the positive reasons I chose to serve the community here).

Having held out as long as I could, I can no longer risk allowing the lack of viability of my cocktail program threaten the ultimate viability of the restaurant and deprive me of the opportunity to serve the community of which I chose to be a part.

Now what is all this controversy about anyway? I will tell you: $7,000 in liquor sales a month. A month. I've tended bar in bars where my individual ring on any given night, as part of a three-, four-, or five-man bar averaged, averaged, $2,500 a night. Our total soft drink and coffee sales, half of which don't even get rung up, and at $2 a piece average $2,000 a month. (Actually, that's pretty lame too, if you really want to know the truth and all of that crummy Dickens crap and all of that crazy stuff).

Now, I will return to the argument: "So what? It is the restaurant's job to serve drinks, and if I can't institute a system to serve cocktails without delay and disruption, and if I can't hire and train an effective and knowledgeable staff who can sell drinks without having that come at the expense of our wine program, and if I don't like the pervading culture where I exist then maybe I just don't deserve to be in business in the first place, and maybe I should just suck it up and take the good with the bad, and in any case, I should certainly just shut up about it."

Again, there is merit to this, and many people exercise their right to avoid my businesses and to despise me right back--a quick look at the reader reviews on washingtonpost.com will give you an idea of the hostility, vindictiveness and spite in the environment in which we operate, as well as to see the degree to which people indulge themselves in these things in an unmoderated forum, not that I don't sincerely wish that people would be allowed to voice negative comments and responses to either their experience in my restaurants or to my views posted here without fear of personal attacks in return.

However, having agonized about this decision for quite some time, there is a simple fact, beyond the irrefutable primacy of survival, that I feel in this case allows me to make such an unconventional, controversial, and quite likely damaging in the short run decision.

We at Ray's, both The Steaks and The Classics, do something very special, I believe.

We serve a premium, luxury product, at the highest level of quality and distinction possible, in a manner that is as comfortable, welcoming, accommodating, affordable and responsive to the real world needs as possible to as broad and varied and diverse a segment of the population as possible. We do so in the spirit of true and equal hospitality, and we do so without the demands of profit concerns ever coming before our guest and our role in actively engaging and strengthening the community we serve.

And we do so honestly.

We do something that no other restaurant in this area does, and which very few in this country even attempt--we make affordable a product which, misrepresentations and deceptions aside, is rarely available at any price and which is becoming harder and harder for any restaurant to offer even at inflated prices without those aforementioned deceptions and misrepresentations.

Simply put, steakhouses today do not deliver the quality or even the product at times to which they purport--and their ability to do so is becoming less and less--and they have arrogantly and unjustifiably pushed their prices beyond those which any reasonable person can afford in an environment that no reasonable person would enjoy. The big name steakhouse now charge $42-$45 for their frontline steaks, where I charge $30 for a cut which is just as costly, at least just as good, and certainly better aged, trimmed and served (No heat lamps, flavor-replacing butter or au jus from a can). Not too mention the free sides versus the violatory $8 potato.

How is, as Todd mentions in a review of a top dollar steakhouse not prized for being a steakhouse, a $25 hanger steak a terrific bargain? Hanger steak costs for the most part $2-3 a pound, is typically ungraded unless you try really hard to find and work with something better (I use a graded choice product that is typically sent to the Japanese market. Some people use the very very excellent Cedar River graded choice product which costs $5+ but which for me is too small and does not age up the way I like), the yield after trimming is about 45% and the typical portion is 8 ounces or less, so the center-of-the-plate cost for that terrific bargain is at most $5 with maybe another $2 on the plate in garnish and sauce. When even that is not enough, they invent a new class of beef which allows them to further exploit an indiscriminate population, and which the media, including websites and blogs, is either too misinformed or too in thrall to trends to decry to be a sham. (Wagyu-hybrid beef, especially that which is shipped from Australia frozen, is inferior in most every circumstance to American single breed beef from a top-quality grower. All it takes is a single taste-test or one question to an expert to know this).

Morton's and Ruth's Chris are chains on a continuum with Burger King and McDonald's, Charlie Palmer's and BLT are part of nominally figureheaded empires with I believe between $50-$100 million a year in sales each and growing, and The Capital Grille is now owned by The Olive Garden. And at all of them the aimed-for food cost is 28%. If they need to charge overall double what I do to make all that happen, and they can get away with it, however many people feel better served by them than by me, more power to 'em.

At the same time chef-driven restaurants are rarely able to afford putting the superior "middle cuts" on their menu and are instead offering secondary cuts as their beef options (and many of our favorites here do so in a way that is more exquisite and revelatory than anything I could ever produce), and those who still do are either offering cuts which are to small to cook up in true steakhouse style, or are mid-grade, pre-cut cryovac-ed cuts (with the justifiable rationale that those cuts are still excellent and that the preparation and presentation is the real matter of excellence), or are seeing the viability of offering those cuts quickly coming to an end.

And to further put in perspective the necessity of this measure, I should point out that Clyde's, J. Paul's, Houston's, hell, even Cubano's for chrissakes, all charge more for their mid-grade steaks than I charge for a premium product. (I should point out that Great American Restaurants serve a very good steak and prime rib at a great value).

I do not mean to disparage or devalue the work of any other chef or organization, only to point out the realities of the market today, nor do I claim that what I do is better or more important than what anyone else does.

I do believe I have a different mission than most other organizations, and that what I offer is meant to be an alternative to the DC dining scene, not a replacement. If I have to streamline my operations in order to address, welcome and serve diverse elements of our community that are either overlooked or considered unwelcome, whether directly or by default, by the majority of restaurants in this area, then so be it.

There are many places where you can enjoy a $12 cocktail with your $42 steak and $90 bottle of Franciscan. I am hoping that at the end of the day in Silver Spring there will still be a place where anyone can have a civilized, luxury-level steak in a welcoming house with a good bottle of wine and decent, prompt service for $100 a couple, no matter what that takes.

NB--If anyone wants to know what the other single debilitating factor in service issues is it is the very Washington phenomenon of asking for a 7 or 7:30 reservation, being offered a 6:30 table as the only available option, having one person or couple arrive at 6:40-6:45 to hold the table and having the rest of the guests show up whenever the fuck they want, so that steps of service that were necessary to be accomplished before the next seated tables needs are attended to have to be performed at the expense of that on-time table. Not to mention the jumping through hoops and buying of drinks necessary to placate the 8:30 tables who originally wanted 7:30-8, took the 8:30 but showed up a 8:05 so that they would be sure to have enough time to ask the hostess SEVEN times by 8:25 when their table will be ready and at 8:35 are already composing their letter to Tom Sietsema (grossly unfactual, of course).

[chickenlover]

I will also be very clear here, at the risk (actually the peasure) of antagonizing an element of the population whose culture--but not the people themselves, natch--I quite frankly and openly despise (and with the added pleasure of quite likely antagonizing the non-Food Section columnists at the Post whose writing panders to, celebrates, and holds that culture up to be the greatest pinnacle of human accomplishment): this phenomenon is almost entirely attributable to the wealthy, status-, media-, and entitlement-driven portion of Montgomery County and similar, like-minded environs--our least gracious and least content guests--and NOT our local Silver Spring community.

What does this mean? The blood sucking bourgeoisie drink cocktails, but the hard working neighbor folk prefer wine? It's your restaurant, your prerogative, but I am not sure I understand this section of the rant.

[porcupine]

Thanks for a very interesting essay. You don't get good stuff like this in the chats and <groan> chogs about the 'nets. I'm especially enamored of references to Marvell and Salinger.

"Had we but steak enough, and time

This hanger, Michael, were no crime.

We would sit down and think "which way

To Ray's?" and pass our hungers' day.

I need a life.

[Heather]

What does this mean? The blood sucking bourgeoisie drink cocktails, but the hard working neighbor folk prefer wine? It's your restaurant, your prerogative, but I am not sure I understand this section of the rant.

Is it a service issue? Or an attitude problem on the part of the martini- and cosmo-swilling set? Is it capitalist running dogs demanding martinis that ruin it for the rest of us?

[Waitman]

What does this mean? The blood sucking bourgeoisie drink cocktails, but the hard working neighbor folk prefer wine? It's your restaurant, your prerogative, but I am not sure I understand this section of the rant.

Beer. Don't forget the beer!

[Heather]

"Had we but steak enough, and time

This hanger, Michael, were no crime.

We would sit down and think "which way

To Ray's?" and pass our hungers' day.

And in answer:

"And time for all the works and days of hands

That lift and drop a question on your plate"

I was thinking about his quaint honor, and wishing I hadn't.

[Waitman]

QUOTEQUOTE(chickenlover @ Jan 29 2008, 08:00 AM) What does this mean? The blood sucking bourgeoisie drink cocktails, but the hard working neighbor folk prefer wine? It's your restaurant, your prerogative, but I am not sure I understand this section of the rant.Is it a service issue? Or an attitude problem on the part of the martini- and cosmo-swilling set? Is it capitalist running dogs demanding martinis that ruin it for the rest of us?

I believe that it was in Das Kapital that Marx postulatated the "drinktatorship of the proletariate," who would actually lead the masses against the forces of Capital and their lackies, the blood-sucking bourgeoisie, after a few rounds of the same firewater that fueled the storming of the Bastile and, later, The Terror -- Marx being not only a Hegelian but a bit of a culinary historian as well. Interestingly, the phrase "Blood-sucking" is actually a shortening of the original, typically German, polysyllabic mash-up found in Kapital: blutigessaugenderköniginmary bourgeoisie. This a reference to the then-popular habit among middle class Germans of showing their sophistication by drinking an "exotic" Bloody Mary (Russian vodka and tomato juice both being new to the beer-and-sausage German palate) before dinner.

It's also said that the same Russian serfs who imprisoned and occasionally murdered their former masters not only checked hands to see which were calloused from hard work and which were soft from expensive leisure, but that they would lure suspected Whites into local bars, order a round of vodka shots and then cunningly whisper "I hear they also make an excellent Cosmopolitan here." Apparently, more than a few persons found themselves in the proto-Gulags established in the wake of the October Revolution by betraying a weakness for oppressive labor-intensive cocktails.

The rise in popularity of $14 martinis even as the income gap between blue collar America and upper quintilions grows is certainly grist for further discussion, as well, and it will be interesting to see who is drinking what as the November election -- though likely not a second "November Revolution" -- approaches.

[Michael Landrum]

I need a life.

Not as much as I do.