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We went to Venice two years ago and followed Dean's recommendations.  They were all fabulous.  Loved Ala Frasca and Anice Stellato.  Also, a climb up the old clocktower on St. Mark's is pretty fun (with great views of the Cathedral, as is a wander around the cemetery on the island in the lagoon.

Very out of date sugggestions....

Ala Fiaschetterie Toscana {old school seafood, high end, brilliant in over 8 years of going}

Ala Frasca {my dream hole in the wall.  Run by two brothers and their cousin.  Not wine centric is the only issue but I order a carafe of their white swill "alla spina" and it works.

Anice Stellato {food so properly researched back to the renaissance era that it seems innovative.  My biggest inspiration along with FT above.}

Alle Testiere {fabulous modern seafood mostly restaurant but does not speak of Venice to me.  Still, it's fabulous}

La Cantinina on Strada Nuova.  It has expanded and I have not heard yea or ney since it out in a real kitchen.  But back when they had a hot plate, a toaster oven, a prosciutto slicer and a table top home style pizza oven {only 2 of which could be plugged in at a time and even then, the lights owuld go out regularly} it was a fabulous but fabulously expensive joint.  Unreal wines!

Da Pinto {on the campo della beccarie at the pescheria rialto.  ONLY order the cicchetti and the grilled fish.  DO NOT ORDER ANYTHING ELSE.  NO NOT PASS GO.  Do not pass go.  THe rest of the menu is for tourists and is "Dange Will Robinson, Danger Will Robinson teritory.  Did I mention that their regular menu is execrable?}

Do Mori for a glass of wine and a snack or 12, served standing up in the oldest wine bar in Venice IIRC

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Anyone research and do a food tour of Venice?  I see a few and they're pretty pricey, and it's hard to pick which one's the best.  I'm thinking about doing it on my day of arrival - figuring walking around in the cold will keep me awake.  I think I would enjoy a tour of the ghetto/Cannaregio but I'm less certain about the food.  I can do a chichetti tour - did one on my last trip and it was pretty good.

Also, has anyone been to a Barbarigo Minotta Opera?  

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I recently did 2 food tours in Venice.

The first was an evening tour upon my arrival - Venice Food Tour: Cicchetti and Wine, $153 by Urban Adventures.  We were supposed to hit 5 venues but one was closed.  So we only did 4, Do Mori, Do Spade, Sepa, and some other place.  I was still hungry afterwards - definitely not worth the money.

The second was a mid-morning tour on my last full day in Venice - Rialto Market Food and Wine Lunchtime Tour of Venice, $103 by Raphael Tours.  We ventured from Rialto all the way to Castello, we had sweets, meats and cheese, chichetti of fried seafood, risotto, pasta with squid ink, and finished with Tiramisu.  This is a much better tour.

For dinner, I ate at Boccadoro, Carampane, Bistrot de Venise and il Ridotto.  A word on il Ridotto - I didn't book it in advance.  When I tried to book it online while in Venice, I found out their website doesn't allow solo booking so I had my hotel call and I got a reservation that way.  Turns out the restaurant was mostly empty that night.  I went a la carte and had (1) black spaghetti with sea-urchins, candied peppers, kale, (2) cuttlefish, mushroom and black lentils, and (3) guinea hen, radicchio, buckwheat and pomegranate , 40 per dish.  The only dish that I didn't enjoy was the cuttlefish but the other dishes didn't blow my mind.


Venice (113).JPG

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