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Peter Chang Really HAS Been Found!


gnatharobed

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I write this as someone who has not eaten Peter Chang's cooking-yet. And, perhaps yourself or John B. can answer: I believe that Lotus of Siam (in a nondescript, seedy out of the way Vegas strip center) is the best Asian I have found in America. At least three or four dishes were, just, extraordinary. I also believe that for me it may taste even better because it is such an achingly plain, actually tired room.

How would Peter Chang compare to Saipin Chutima, Lotus of Siam's chef who is currently nominated for a James Beard award as best chef in the Southwest? Would Peter Chang's cuisine be the same in a truly upscale setting?

And, last, if Lotus of Siam's chef moved every three months would we be following him around the U. S. too?

That's a good one. Hmmm. I'd say that, while different, Chang's and Saipin's cuisines are on a rough par (I've dined at LOS 3 or 4 times--basically it's a must stop for any trip to LV, but it's been about 2 years since my last visit). They both inspire their fans, and rightly so. They both get the maximum from their basic ingredients, essentially through the brilliant use of their respective spices and their mastery of cooking techniques.

To eat a meal from each of them on the same or consecutive days would be sensational. We need to get Dave Feldman to try Chang's stuff if he hasn't already--he'd be much better able to make the comparison (Dave, a frequent poster on the Chowhound Southwest, now LV, board, is probably more responsible for LOS's fame than anyone else).

BTW I understand LOS has recently remodeled, tho I have no idea what that might mean in terms of going "upscale."

EDIT: Speaking of LV and restaurant closing in the same thread, I just learned that Charlie Trotter has closed Restaurant Charlie at the Palazzo as of COB last Thursday. I was fortunate enough to dine there during my last trip, at the chef's table overlooking the kitchen, and it was really memorable. Truly outstanding food and the best service I ever experienced, including an invitation down to the kitchen to "help" plate one of our dishes including some squeeze bottle work. Of course, the place was practically empty, and I wondered how long they could keep it going. Now we know, but it certainly wasn't because anything was lacking in the experience they offered.

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A friend in Charlottesville forwarded this to me.

We may all be too analytical about this: would Johnny Monis have a 150 seat restaurant? Everyone of these places starts small and builds into an enormous volume that he feels he is losing control of. He's also 48 years old and working his heart out for what must be a small amount of money-all the while fearful that what is served will not be what he is capable of. Note what his friend, the owner of "L'il Dino's," says about how hard it must be.

The answer, quite simply, may be Peter Chang's version of Komi, i.e. 30 or so seats, a reasonable prix fixe to allow this and reservations one month to the hour to the day. And a financial participation in the business. And the ability to retain control of the kitchen. (Remember, he did stay at the Chinese embassy for two years and fulfill his contract.)

He used the word "overwhelming." He is so good that he cannot avoid it; what he can do is control the setting and his interest in it. My question now is this: would you pay, say, $125 for a 12 course Chang dinner in a row house on 18th street? $100 for eight courses? This is no longer about a strip shopping center and $10-15 dishes; rather it's about the talent and imagination to create one of this city's (or any city's) best dining experiences. He seems to be a natural for a multi course tasting menu. Perhaps this is really more about showing one of the world's great cuisines and its ambassador the respect and paying the price it justly deserves.

I just hope he does it here. (And John B. has his private phone number for a reservation!)

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A friend in Charlottesville forwarded this to me.

Zora

Thank you for linking that. It is an excellent and comprehensive article and fills in several gaps. It also seems to explain the interactions that led to the most recent move. Of course, as is always the case with Chang, one never knows if one yet has the complete backstory.

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A friend in Charlottesville forwarded this to me.

According to the article, "But Chang debunks the elaborate theories propounded by the national food writers. His jobs were simply consulting work, he tells a reporter. He says he would make each place a success, teach the cooks, and then leave. "

And you know he ain't doing it for free.

I am even more persuaded of the correctness of my theory, the guy is an entrepreneur, in this case, an entrepreneur of start-up Chinese restaurants. And like every good entrepreneur, he cashes in at the peak.

I knew guys like this back in the go-go days of the Internet, start a killer website, and sell it, start another, sell that one, lather, rinse, repeat.

In other words, he's motivated by cold, hard cash, as well as the thrill of the thing, he's not some prima donna angsting over everything and shooting himself in the foot rather than accept his success.

Now, the quibble is, "well, why doesn't he stick around and work eighteen hour days seven days a week running the business he started?"

To me, the question answers itself, but if not, I'd say, "different animals". He's not built for year after year of heavy lifting, he's an artist.

But, no matter, I missed the scallion bubble pancakes this go round, will just have to wait for them to come around again.

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According to the article, "But Chang debunks the elaborate theories propounded by the national food writers. His jobs were simply consulting work, he tells a reporter. He says he would make each place a success, teach the cooks, and then leave. "

If this were true, and known in advance by the owners, then why would China Boy (which is now Cee) go out of business so soon after he left?

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If this were true, and known in advance by the owners, then why would China Boy (which is now Cee) go out of business so soon after he left?

As I have been quoted and re-quoted, there's an element of spin here. Chang is no dummy when doing interviews. But at the same time he was clearly, for the most part, a chef not a consultant .

And it is also true that many if not most of the places he worked at have carried on and have done well, with those he trained continuing to cook his creations reasonably well. I don't know why this didn't happen at China Gourmet (China Boy). But here are two comments that were posted in the C'ville blog about what has been going on since he left (all of three days now):

Ok, so I just couldn’t stay away. The cravings won out, and I returned tonight to see how TofC is faring without Mr Chang at the helm. The staff seemed a little anxious, and asked a few times if I thought everything was ok, and sure enough, it is. Everything sampled was delicious and unchanged from how it tasted on previous visits. So with a sigh of relief I am still recommending that people go and enjoy the most amazing Chinese food on offer in C’ville. I guess Mr Chang taught his staff well. Don’t miss the dry fried eggplant, or the crispy spicy duck, or those fish and cilantro rolls and the… well, never mind, I’ll stop there. Go sample it all!

My wife and I returned tonight, and found the food to still be outstanding. Had cold noodles w’ chili sauce to start, followed by crispy shrimp w/ scallion & chilis, ma po tofu and braised fish with bean sauce. It was great. The food was indistinguishable from when Chef Chang was in residence.

The staff actually seems more relaxed and attentive, albeit a bit nervous.

I look at it this way: If you go to any of, let’s say, Mario Batali’s restaurants, what are the chances of him actually cooking for you? Slim to none, and the same is the case with any celeb chef. But, that’s not the point. The sign of a truly outstanding kitchen is how the food tastes when the chef is NOT there. When I go to MAS, I never worry about whether Tomas Rahal is actually there, because of the way he has trained and drilled his staff.

I think you may end up seeing another aspect of the “Chang Effect,” namely the legacy in knowledge and technique he’s left behind at ToC. If the Rongs are wise, they’ll maintain this level of cooking.

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If this were true, and known in advance by the owners, then why would China Boy (which is now Cee) go out of business so soon after he left?

Not to belabor the obvious, more than half of new restaurants fail.

If my memory is not failing me, I think that the restaurant Chang had in Fairfax was named Szechuan Boy. Have not been to Cee, maybe it will break the spell of doom that hangs over restaurants on that little strip in Fairfax City. Just not a good location, for some reason.

Also not sure if Fairfax City has enough Chinese people wanting to eat real Chinese food.

The other day, while waiting in line for lunch at Happy Go, I struck up a conversation with a Chinese-American man, asking if there were restaurants in or near Fairfax that served real Chinese food, like you get at Joe's Noodle or Michael's Noodle. He did not mention China Star or Tempt Asian, but he did suggest a place on Lee Highway near Cedar Lane, in the shopping center with the big American flag.

Later I perused the menu of that establishment, only Americanized food, and asked the people behind the counter if they had another menu, but they said no, and I did not see any Chinese people eating there.

Hunan Gourmet, in Fair Oaks Mall, does have a fair percentage of Chinese people eating their soups but they don't come close to Joe's Noodle or Michael's Noodle.

Poor China Star seems almost without customers these days, but we still go there, although now that I have developed sodium sensitivity I have to be very careful what I get, mostly rice and bok choy. But the rest of the family still likes it.

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If my memory is not failing me, I think that the restaurant Chang had in Fairfax was named Szechuan Boy.

That was going to be the new name. I don't think the sign ever got mounted before PC was out the door and gone. The restaurant went from Chinese to Thai in about two weeks and seems to be doing well.

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This is a complete non-sequitur, but Debbie - can we ask for some Hubei cooking??? Sounds like a dr-gathering...

I'll definitely ask my dad but I have a feeling Chef Chang's food is not typical Hubei cooking. I don't think Hubei is one of the provinces known for their food. Shandong province where my mom's family is from is better known for its cuisine.

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I'll definitely ask my dad but I have a feeling Chef Chang's food is not typical Hubei cooking. I don't think Hubei is one of the provinces known for their food. Shandong province where my mom's family is from is better known for its cuisine.

My knowledge of Hubei cooking is based on one of my former colleague's descriptions and it sounded wonderfully comforting. I don't ever think Chef Chang cooked Hubei food in the restaurants and although I love my Shandong roots (maternal side), you sometimes just have to explore!

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As predicted by so many of you (I thought it wouldn't be quite so soon this time), our boy has flown the coop again. Apparently yesterday (Sunday) was his last at Taste of China. Sources indicate the next venue might be Richmond, but might be also back south. That's all I have right now. Stay tuned.

The "back south" I alluded to in the OP was Atlanta, but I had my doubts. I learned Wednesday he was going to be down there on Thursday "checking things out." If Tom Maicon's comments are correct, a decision was made pretty fast. I'm trying to find out for sure whether this is really going to be it, and will come back when I have something more certain.

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Yes, but in three YEARS, not 3 months.

I believe that Szechuan Boy was doomed, in large part, by setting up only a couple of miles from China Star. Less that three miles by car, less than two miles as the crow flies, serving almost exactly the same cuisine.

I have mentioned The Fortune Cookie Chronicles as an interesting look at Chinese restaurants in America, and am almost finished with Serve the People, a look at restaurants in China, and then will read Chop Suey, a history of Chinese food in America.

One theme that has popped up repeatedly is the tension between using quality ingredients and the need to keep prices low for the vast majority of customers who don't really care about quality, they just want cheap, filling, and fast.

I just don't think the residents of Fairfax City were ready for two authentic Szechuan restaurants, with menus in Chinese, and a lot of food that Caucasian Americans don't know or understand.

That said, I always felt like there was more going on than met the eye, there.

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People don't change. I think this is just Peter Chang's MO. I'm inclined to agree that he is more entrepreneurial than anything else...probably getting a lot upfront to set it all up and train other chefs.

I'm so glad I had the opportunity to dine at Taste of China in December 2009! I love the idea of a Komi-like setup of limited diners, limited seating tasting menu. I would pay $100 for a Peter Chang experience. I have yet to experience the same level of Chinese fine dining here in the US as I have been lucky to experience in Hong Kong, Singapore and Malaysia. Peter Chang comes close...

As for the interesting discussion about a comparison between Lotus of Siam chef and Peter Chang, I'm inclined to think it is a fair comparison. Everytime I'm in LV, I dine at LoS. If the chef from LoS moved somewhere else, I would be sure to put it on my list, much like I will for Peter Chang's next endeavor.

Chasing the umami....

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One theme that has popped up repeatedly is the tension between using quality ingredients and the need to keep prices low for the vast majority of customers who don't really care about quality, they just want cheap, filling, and fast.

This is pretty much the same for almost any type of cuisine, quantity over quality!

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John T. Edge, who curated the Oxford American food issue in which Kliman's article appeared, has tweeted the following this evening:

@johntedge RT @BillAddison: Peter Chang report: @besharodell n @joeyonan and I are at Tasty China. Chang n his wife here, talking to giddy customers.

I'll be in Atlanta the second week of April... oh please, Mr. Chang, stay in one place for a bit.

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John T. Edge, who curated the Oxford American food issue in which Kliman's article appeared, has tweeted the following this evening:

@johntedge RT @BillAddison: Peter Chang report: @besharodell n @joeyonan and I are at Tasty China. Chang n his wife here, talking to giddy customers.

I'll be in Atlanta the second week of April... oh please, Mr. Chang, stay in one place for a bit.

Note that one of the attendees was Joe Yonan of the Post.

Don't get your hopes too high for the second week of April. It could happen, but odds are not in its favor.

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I would pay $100 bucks a pop for a nice tasting menu if their was a broad wine selection and nicer ambiance ;) But I don't want to have to go to Atlanta... don't we know anyone with an extra building and some cash???

I think we could tempt him if he didn't have to put Tasty China behind his name...

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I have received some fresh information, and as suggested previously it's looking more and more like it will be Richmond. Also supposedly going for a more upscale atmosphere.

Less than 2 hours from Memorial Bridge (well, without traffic--gotta use that HOV lane)). Could be worse for you all. For me down here in NC, not so much.

I'll keep posting as new tidbits come in.

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I have received some fresh information, and as suggested previously it's looking more and more like it will be Richmond. Also supposedly going for a more upscale atmosphere.

Less than 2 hours from Memorial Bridge (well, without traffic--gotta use that HOV lane)). Could be worse for you all. For me down here in NC, not so much.

I'll keep posting as new tidbits come in.

John, I just don't think Richmond-over time-would support a $100 or so prix fixe experience from him. I really believe he needs to either look at D. C. or Buckhead.

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John, I just don't think Richmond-over time-would support a $100 or so prix fixe experience from him. I really believe he needs to either look at D. C. or Buckhead.

I really don't see DC supporting it either. I think the last thing this city needs is another expensive prix fixe place.

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Just because he's going "more upscale", why is the assumption that we're going from $10-$15 dishes to $100/person?

Lots of room between those two numbers for him to be successful.

Absolutely. And something accessible to many more folks.

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Absolutely. And something accessible to many more folks.

I not at all sure that the idea is fancy schmancy. Maybe more like "nice decor," add a buck or two to the prices. But I'm purely guessing--I really don't know.

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I don't believe the prix fixe idea would work with Chinese food and it's not necessary. The price per dish just needs to go up. Instead of $10 per dish, make it $20. That way we can still pick from a menu with hundreds of items instead of eating just what the chef feels like preparing that day. Chinese food is meant to be eaten family style.

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We may all be too analytical about this: would Johnny Monis have a 150 seat restaurant? Everyone of these places starts small and builds into an enormous volume that he feels he is losing control of. He's also 48 years old and working his heart out for what must be a small amount of money-all the while fearful that what is served will not be what he is capable of. Note what his friend, the owner of "L'il Dino's," says about how hard it must be.

The answer, quite simply, may be Peter Chang's version of Komi, i.e. 30 or so seats, a reasonable prix fixe to allow this and reservations one month to the hour to the day. And a financial participation in the business. And the ability to retain control of the kitchen. (Remember, he did stay at the Chinese embassy for two years and fulfill his contract.)

He used the word "overwhelming." He is so good that he cannot avoid it; what he can do is control the setting and his interest in it. My question now is this: would you pay, say, $125 for a 12 course Chang dinner in a row house on 18th street? $100 for eight courses? This is no longer about a strip shopping center and $10-15 dishes; rather it's about the talent and imagination to create one of this city's (or any city's) best dining experiences. He seems to be a natural for a multi course tasting menu. Perhaps this is really more about showing one of the world's great cuisines and its ambassador the respect and paying the price it justly deserves.

I just hope he does it here. (And John B. has his private phone number for a reservation!)

D. C.would support a restaurant like this. I believe that Chang would be a champion of it. I also believe that we are underestimating the value of his cuisine to suggest that there is not a market for a multicourse higher end prix fixe dinner. Some of the best dishes I have ever had are Asian and would challenge the best I've had in, say, Paris or Barcelona. Restaurants like The Source and Chinois are not inexpensive dinners. My guess is that a prix fixe Chang dinner might rival or exceed what I would find at these. Why should I not expect to pay an appropriate price to experience this? Why do we want to categorize this chef as someone who is excellent but only in a restrictive price range? If he is that good then certainly he is worth an appropriate charge. Somehow, for myself, this level of talent is not about $10 or $15 dishes. Or $20 dishes. Rather, it costs what it costs to experience his best. With the following that he now has people will pay to taste his best. And that may not come as cheap as it has in the past.

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And Germany, too. This is what it looks like after passing through Google Translation:

----------------------------------------------

Roam these K?'s Chef, Peter Chang has hei? T and specializes exclusively on the K? Surface of Sichuan Province. Chang go? Rt when the evidence of his Anh? Ngerschar can trust the Spitzenk?'s On this planet. However, there is a problem: The man is always found. Before f? Five years, he spotted John Binkley, a retired economist, the good Chinese K? Che loves, and he hit him immediately with skin and hair. At that time, the maestro had a unauff? Lliges restaurant in the St? Dtchen Fairfax, Virginia, the "China Star" here?. And one day he was, as it is so his style has disappeared. Only a year sp? Ter dipped his food in "TemptAsian", an equally unauff? Lliges premises in Alexandria.

On the Internet had l? Ngst formed a gourmet club, who tried to keep pace with Peter Chang. In his new / Cafe, so black? Rmten Chang specialists who succeeded him his fried fish with gr? Nen onions as good as ever ( "a plate, with the Tradeshow? Was nnisch fried vollgeh uft?? Berst? ubt with Kreuzk? MMEL, curved? nt of chopped ginger, fried parsley and weight? rfelten chili peppers, served in a woven bamboo bag "). But then Peter Chang was one day pl? Additional gone again - until it was in "Tasty China" hired in Atlanta. His admirers John Binkley However you followed him? Ndlich there too. He was begr of his favorite cooking with hearty hugs? T. A few months sp? Ter fell Binkley, however, that the food in "Tasty China" had become stale. In addition, the photos no longer hung on the wall, which showed Chang in the company of his prominent admirers. No doubt, a culinary genius, the "master of Kreuzk? MMEL," had again verd? Nnisiert. For weeks the fans on the Internet remained perplexed. Ger? Chte emerged, the maestro would demn? Grows in the area of Washington, pitch his tent, but they proved Unlimited nds?. Two years ago, Binkley, finally found his idol in "Hong Kong House" again - in Knoxville (Tennessee).

Various theories are circulating on the Internet, why Peter Chang as h changes? Ufig its location. A more psychological interpretation is that not a man to deal with success k? Nne: Once he had established themselves somewhere, it would also help him again too much. Others speculate that the ignorant take him to the spirit with which he sits in? Resembled Done? Ft must grapple:) For example, people to whom its courts are too severe weight rzt? (In Szechuan pepper gives it a little bit more tuned . Or maybe Peter Chang flees from anything? Is it the mafia on their heels? If he has problems with the Einwanderungsbeh rden? In one of those periods, when Chang was traced, was blogged on the Internet: "The hunt for Peter Chang continues. The only question is whether we find him, before La Migra (the Einwanderungsbeh? Rde) does. If yes, are we adopt him to marry convert, in short, we will do, n what? is tig. " One idea is the Anh? Not yet come nger of Peter Chang in their endearing innocence: the man k?

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In 2002, the Kennedy Center produced the Sondheim Festival. One of the productions was Sondheim's Pacific Overtures. It was performed by the Japanese National Theater {IIRC} and was translated into Japanese with English supertitles. But instead of running the English libretto as the super titles, the Japanese director had a fresh translation of his translation. There were few real differences but they made for fun reading to anyone who knew the original.

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The latest word from my contact in Charlottesville: click.

Where the hell is Short Pump? :lol:

Short Pump is a suburb north of Richmond in Henrico County, has some rather nice shops, caters to the well-heeled in the Richmond area, but is not exclusively up-scale. There is a big mall, and several sub-malls. Parking is not a problem, which is not true for Richmond, proper. Short Pump mall is on Broad Street, near I-64 and I-295.

If he picked Short Pump, that's not a bad choice.

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