Chicken Stock

[Anna Blume]

I am amazed that your stock did not gel.

Me, too. The color of my amped-up batch is much deeper, whereas the very pale liquid I refrigerated yesterday concerned me. Figured that reducing 6 to just under 4 quarts would suffice; don't think extra simmering would have done anything.

Did you remove any of the extra fat on the backs? I usually take off the rather large portions.

No. I bow at the altar of Rodgers who swears fat enhances flavor during reduction.

BTW the very best stock I made in recent history came from the Amish naked neck whole chicken sold by Eco-Friendly and two packages of feet. From now on, when I have access to feet, I will always add at least 1 1/2 lbs. worth.

[zoramargolis]

Me, too. The color of my amped-up batch is much deeper, whereas the very pale liquid I refrigerated yesterday concerned me. Figured that reducing 6 to just under 4 quarts would suffice; don't think extra simmering would have done anything.

No. I bow at the altar of Rodgers who swears fat enhances flavor during reduction.

BTW the very best stock I made in recent history came from the Amish naked neck whole chicken sold by Eco-Friendly and two packages of feet. From now on, when I have access to feet, I will always add at least 1 1/2 lbs. worth.

I don't expect chicken stock to gel, whereas veal stock always does. I presume that young chickens, in particular, do not have the amounts of connective tissue and cartilage necessary to melt into the stock that creates the gelling when chilled. The addition of lots more chicken feet might do it, but I'm not sure why having the stock gel is that important, unless you are making aspic. In terms of depth of flavor I'm not clear that there is a direct connection between amount of flavor and gel. If it tastes pallid, reduce. Were there sufficient aromatics? Also, for deeper color, use brown onions and don't peel them, it adds depth of golden color to the broth. Sometimes, when I want "double-strength" stock--which is not always, since I don't necessarily want vegetable soups to be overwhelmed by chicken flavor--instead of straight water, I use College Inn or Swanson broth as part of the liquid, or add a couple of teaspoons of Better Than Bouillion chicken flavor base to the pot. Also, if the stock has a lot of particulates, strain through a wet muslin dish towel.

[monavano]

I don't expect chicken stock to gel, whereas veal stock always does. I presume that young chickens, in particular, do not have the amounts of connective tissue and cartilage necessary to melt into the stock that creates the gelling when chilled. The addition of lots more chicken feet might do it, but I'm not sure why having the stock gel is that important, unless you are making aspic. In terms of depth of flavor I'm not clear that there is a direct connection between amount of flavor and gel. If it tastes pallid, reduce. Were there sufficient aromatics? Also, for deeper color, use brown onions and don't peel them, it adds depth of golden color to the broth. Sometimes, when I want "double-strength" stock--which is not always, since I don't necessarily want vegetable soups to be overwhelmed by chicken flavor--instead of straight water, I use College Inn or Swanson broth as part of the liquid, or add a couple of teaspoons of Better Than Bouillion chicken flavor base to the pot. Also, if the stock has a lot of particulates, strain through a wet muslin dish towel.

I also thought of aromatics to color stock, in particular unpeeled onions and carrots.

From reading here and there, I have come to equate a good chicken stock with gel. Perhaps Zora is right in that the gel is not the be-all-end-all when it comes to the final product. Interstingly, I had one batch in particular gel like never before. In a large strainer-lined pasta pot, I used wings, feet and backs (and aromatics, skimming etc.) for stock. When it was done simmering, I lowered the temp of the stock in an ice bath for a bit, then put the whole pot in the refrigerator until the next day. Then, I reheated gently, until it become fully fluid again. I strained the stock by taking the pasta basket out, then ran the stock through a chinois, and let it chill again for a day. Next, I skimmed the stock and I noted that it had gelled.

I'm thinking about experimenting with this method again.

For chicken parts, I go to a nearby Bestway and buy a few pounds of parts for about $7-$8

Veal stock is what I really have my sights set on. I'd love to get a batch under my belt.

[Anna Blume]

Z: the color of yesterday's batch was a bright, but otherwise pale yellow. Flavor also a bit pale. Seemed thin, so I actually reduced it a bit more, after straining. When I opened the fridge this morning, hoping simply to skim fat off and freeze stock flat in bags, then the lack of gelling signaled inferior batch. Fat jiggly and liquid vs. matte and solid enough for a flea to skate. For me, gelling was always a sign stock would be a success, even back in grad school when I made stock only when there were enough roasted carcasses in freezer.

Cf. post above. I used to add lots of stuff to stock (parsley, peppercorns, bay leaves...), but have grown too fond of the simpler, clean taste I am convinced I get without the foregrounded (sorry) tastes of celery leaves or parsnips. (M: I never use carrot peelings since I was always told the skin imparts a bitter taste--though that advice came before there were thin-skinned, young carrots at markets--especially when they're the huge ones I buy cheap). Matter of personal taste.

This doctored batch seems really quite good, now. Golden color, deeper flavor. Clear thanks to doubled paper towels in strainer.

Mentioned elsewhere, but there are lots of culinary professionals who also express caution about chicken stock overwhelming flavor of vegetable soups, especially. Thus, they recommend water (if doing more than GR w his broccoli-water soup recipe!) or vegetable stocks. Canned chicken broth fine by me, too, of course, but when I have a good chicken stock on hand, I might choose to dilute it.

Since I like parsnips, but find quantities cloying in blended soup, an assertive chicken stock, and sunchokes, should balance flavor.

FYI: 6 quarts liquid yielded just under 15 cups at end.

[Rhone1998]

I made a batch of stock this afternoon from the remains of yesterday's roast chicken, plus some bits and pieces of leek, onion, and green garlic I'd thrown in the freezer over the last month or so. On a whim I decided to see what would happen if I kept reducing and reducing and reducing...now I'm left with a scant cup of delicious, chickeny, nearly solid goodness that I don't really know what to do with. Any suggestions?

[zoramargolis]

I made a batch of stock this afternoon from the remains of yesterday's roast chicken, plus some bits and pieces of leek, onion, and green garlic I'd thrown in the freezer over the last month or so. On a whim I decided to see what would happen if I kept reducing and reducing and reducing...now I'm left with a scant cup of delicious, chickeny, nearly solid goodness that I don't really know what to do with. Any suggestions?

Put a heaping tablespoon in little snack bags and keep them in your freezer. These are like gold-- when you are making a pan reduction sauce, pull one out of the freezer, take the frozen stock out of the bag and throw it in your pan after you have deglazed it with some wine, water or vinegar. Put the cover on the pan for a minute until the stock glaze melts, add a splash of cream or a bit of butter and then some fresh herbs.