Young & Hungry, Washington City Paper - Jessica Sidman Replaces Chris Schott

[u-bet!]

After all, didn't Sinatra hang out with mobsters?

Didn't the guy banging on the cowbell in your avatar hang out with... oh, never mind.

[Anna Blume]

"'They declare that the flesh of man is so good to eat that nothing can compare with it in the world; and this is quite evident, for of the human bones we found in the houses, everything that could be gnawed had already been gnawed so that nothing remained but what was too tough to eat. In one of the houses we found a man's neck cooking in a pot.'"

---Shipboard physician on Columbus's second transatlantic expedition as quoted by Felipe Fernandez-Armesto

"Appearances reach us through the eye and the eye - whether we speak with the psychologist or the embryologist - is part of the brain and therefore hopelessly involved in mysterious cerebral operations."

---Leo Steinberg, art historian

I wonder if Tim Carman truly believes what he wrote about the amorality of appetites, or if it was just a way to glow about El Pollo's chicken subversively. It's hard to write smart, interesting reviews week after week and implications of what might have seemed insightful and Colbertesque when first making connections between one's takeout and Sinatra may not have been immediately grasped.

We all have means to justify decisions we make and for Tim, clearly, Solanos's legal transgressions are no big deal.

Hell, I roll my eyes over the attitude Whole Foods cops when it comes to discontinuing sales of Parma ham or refusing to order capons, but, as a woman, I might be more blasé about castrating poultry than men who do not like being grabbed by their balls. I never had foie gras and probably never will. Were Dick Cheney to invite me to a complimentary meal at Cityzen, I'd have to think twice, but only because it might be fascinating to listen to what he has to say for himself and there might be an opportunity to spill something in his lap.

The subject of morality would not have been raised in the review were the author not somehow aware of its relevance. To say that sensual pleasure is divorced from guilt or reason seems particularly hard for a restaurant reviewer whose mind is constantly working to analyze what his taste buds enjoy. Language always gets in the body's way.

[DanielK]

Here's a better quote to discuss, from today's blog:

... A weekday smack dab in the middle of D.C. Restaurant Week, that biannual lap dance of a promotion, in which eateries promise an orgasmic meal on the cheap, but mostly just bounce on your leg for $35.

[giant shrimp]

So, I'd just come out of the Leni Riefenstahl/DW Griffith double feature and my buddy posed an important question which was " if Leni could get an entire nation to sign off on genocide, simply because of the power of her art, why couldn't she get work after the fall of the Third Reich?"

this discussion is way too deep for me, and i don't think i have derived any valuable moral lessons from it to apply the next time i consider going to a restaurant, but one thing does bother me about this argument: leni riefenstahl is just about the oldest trick in the book.

[Hannah]

this discussion is way too deep for me, and i don't think i have derived any valuable moral lessons from it to apply the next time i consider going to a restaurant, but one thing does bother me about this argument: leni riefenstahl is just about the oldest trick in the book.

Yep. Godwin's Law by proxy is still Godwin's Law. The argument was technically over when that analogy was used.

[jparrott]

Yes, the rare and beautiful Leveraged Pre-emptive Auto-Godwin-By-Reference. A fine specimen indeed.

[Waitman]

this discussion is way too deep for me, and i don't think i have derived any valuable moral lessons from it to apply the next time i consider going to a restaurant, but one thing does bother me about this argument: leni riefenstahl is just about the oldest trick in the book.

I tale modest umbrage regarding this in that I a ) never actually invoked the n-word and b ) believe that Leni (as with DW) is a fine and obvious example to use when wondering when one's brilliant art can compensate for one's poor morals. I am open to other suggestions (Von Karajan? Shostakovich? Hank Williams Jr.?)

I plead innocent to any violation of Godwin's Law and suggest in return that invoking it is simply a cheap way to avoid the larger issue.

Didn't the guy banging on the cowbell in your avatar hang out with... oh, never mind.

You don't really want to go there, do you?

[jrichstar]

I've read Tim's column a couple of times and feel that his angle of minimizing the abuses of the owners was done in a half-joking way. As he states, the real point is that these people did some bad things, but they serve good food, and we as consumers need to make our own decision as to whether we should frequent the place. Tim's job is to review food, which is what he did, and he presented the facts fairly so the reader could come to their own conclusions.

There are lots of people who've made some pretty bad mistakes out there. I trust that our law enforcement officials give just punishments and when the offenders have served their time or paid their money, they deserve to be considered equals (at least until the next offense). Besides, given the current state of the economy, we can use as much productive work in the economy as possible, ex-con or not!

Also would say that calling Waitman self-righteous was unfair. He was expressing his opinion, as we all do here, and did it in a creative and convincing way. No harm in that.

[qwertyy]

I tale modest umbrage regarding this in that I a ) never actually invoked the n-word and b ) believe that Leni (as with DW) is a fine and obvious example to use when wondering when one's brilliant art can compensate for one's poor morals. I am open to other suggestions (Von Karajan? Shostakovich? Hank Williams Jr.?)

I generally use Miles Davis.

I've enjoyed this exhange. Continue please.

[Michael Landrum]

Everything counts.

In large amounts.

It is ON!!!

I suggest you settle this at Adour's more esteemed next door neighbor, with me as immoderator.

Great writer versus great writer, mano a mano. I buy the drinks. Who gets laid determines the winner (sorry guys, it's a chronicle of a victory foretold--apologies to GG Marquez).

[Michael Landrum]

By the way, for all of you who have forgotten, *this* is why we need donrockwell.com.

[u-bet!]

I tale modest umbrage regarding this in that I a ) never actually invoked the n-word and b ) believe that Leni (as with DW) is a fine and obvious example to use when wondering when one's brilliant art can compensate for one's poor morals. I am open to other suggestions (Von Karajan? Shostakovich? Hank Williams Jr.?)

I plead innocent to any violation of Godwin's Law and suggest in return that invoking it is simply a cheap way to avoid the larger issue.

You don't really want to go there, do you?

Sorry, I'm just having a little trouble reconciling your criticism of Tim's support of a business whose owners are not the most savory of characters with your own support of a man who has had some questionable associations of his own. You seem to be holding others to a different standard than you do yourself.

[Ericandblueboy]

I am open to other suggestions (Von Karajan? Shostakovich? Hank Williams Jr.?)

Wagner is basically a nazi but people still listen to the ring cycle.

[Ericandblueboy]

I suggest you settle this at Adour's more esteemed next door neighbor, with me as immoderator.

I want to come watch the sideshows.

[Michael Landrum]

Wagner is basically a nazi but people still listen to the ring cycle.

And gold-ringed peasants still think Wagner is art. It's not. It's "Cats" in German. We would have forgotten about this mid-brow schlager shit already if it wasn't for Bugs Bunny.

Now, Bruckner was a bad ass fucker, and Mahler was a soul mauler.

And to prove the point, who ever got laid listening to Wagner? Marched into Macht Frei, yes, but laid? No.

[Joe H]

Kirsten Flagstad...

[Michael Landrum]

Kirsten Flagstad...

Are you sure the "flag" was "stad"?

[Waitman]

I generally use Miles Davis.

I've enjoyed this exhange. Continue please.

Wait - what did Miles do? PS remind me to download Sketeches of Spain tomorrow.

In large amounts.

It is ON!!!

I suggest you settle this at Adour's more esteemed next door neighbor, with me as immoderator.

Great writer versus great writer, mano a mano. I buy the drinks. Who gets laid determines the winner (sorry guys, it's a chronicle of a victory foretold--apologies to GG Marquez).

I'd be delighted to undertake such a contest in such a venue. I'm thinking Mr. Carmen might enjoy it himself. And, I am reminded that what seems appropriate when yelled across the dinner table (dinners at my house often get loud) may seem a little bitchy when posted publicly, and hope that Tim is enjoying the back-and-forth as much as I enjoy arguing with someone whose writing and intellect I respect a great deal.

Sorry, I'm just having a little trouble reconciling your criticism of Tim's support of a business whose owners are not the most savory of characters with your own support of a man who has had some questionable associations of his own. You seem to be holding others to a different standard than you do yourself.

The president had a brief, casual relationship to a tenured professor and respected education theorist who was acquitted of all charges. The Solanos are convicted felons. As with Sinatra, there's a strong difference between associating with (alleged) criminals and actually being one, or supporting their endeavors.

Wagner is basically a nazi but people still listen to the ring cycle.

Which, I was stunned to discover a couple of years ago (Siegfried's Rhine Journey at the NSO), is some amazing stuff. But, his music does not seem to have been actually aimed at accomplishing an immoral or amoral end, though this is an argument worth having when I'm less tired, more sober and have spent a year or so boning up on the subject, so as not to make more of a pompous ass of myself than I usually do. Does seem that his art -- like Sinatra's -- was more or less separate from the criminal associations we identify him with.

Now, Bruckner was a bad ass fucker, and Mahler was a soul mauler.

I'd rather have my testicles roto-rootered than sit through an other hour of Mahler. Jesus, that guy is annoying.

And isn't Bruckner the guy that let the ground ball slip between his legs in Game 6?

[Anna Blume]

Miles Davis? Well, I might guess that q was referring to this rep.

[Waitman]

Miles Davis? Well, I might guess that q was referring to this rep.

Shit. I knew he was a bit of a jerk, but I forgot about this.

Maybe I won't download Sketches after all. I hate having to live up to the standards I set for others.

Although, it's less traumatic when the guy is dead -- at least my royalties won't go into his pocket.

Same as Nietzsche (the hardest philosopher to spell)doesn't get my dimes from the Penguin Paperback of Also Sprach.....

[qwertyy]

Shit. I knew he was a bit of a jerk, but I forgot about this.

Maybe I won't download Sketches after all. I hate having to live up to the standards I set for others.

Although, it's less traumatic when the guy is dead -- at least my royalties won't go into his pocket.

Same as Nietzsche (the hardest philosopher to spell)doesn't get my dimes from the Penguin Paperback of Also Sprach.....

Read Miles, his autobiography. It's an enlightening and informative read. And a hoot.

I listen to Kind of Blue, Bitches Brew, and Birth of the Cool (as well as Alone, Canteloupe Island, Talking Timbuktu, Jazz Goes to College... yada yada yada) every time I have a writing deadline because I can't write and listen to English-language lyrics, and jazz gets me all creative-like. But I had to resign myself long ago that by doing this I was--in the most positive sense possible!--supporting a woman-abusing, herion-taking, friend-betraying man... who just happened to also create some of the best music of the 20th century.

I, however, reserve the right to, in some instances ,draw the line and decline to subsidize something "personally" or "excessively" offensive. It is the only time I allow myself to identify with the conservative courts: I know it when I see it.

[tcarman]

This just in on the Y&H blog: Bibiana Osteria has hired Central's pastry chef, Douglas Hernandez.

(Don, I couldn't find an established forum for Bibiana. Please move this, as you see fit.)

[Michael Landrum]

Read Miles, his autobiography. It's an enlightening and informative read. And a hoot.

I listen to Kind of Blue, Bitches Brew, and Birth of the Cool (as well as Alone, Canteloupe Island, Talking Timbuktu, Jazz Goes to College... yada yada yada) every time I have a writing deadline because I can't write and listen to English-language lyrics, and jazz gets me all creative-like. But I had to resign myself long ago that by doing this I was--in the most positive sense possible!--supporting a woman-abusing, herion-taking, friend-betraying man... who just happened to also create some of the best music of the 20th century.

I, however, reserve the right to, in some instances ,draw the line and decline to subsidize something "personally" or "excessively" offensive. It is the only time I allow myself to identify with the conservative courts: I know it when I see it.

Edit that to say, "...whose sidemen, uncredited composers whose royalties he stole, and studio splicers just happened to also create some of the best music of the 20th century." Anything Miles did after '55 or so that was unsupported by more talented sidemen, unspliced, or live pretty much failed into a cringe-inducing embarrassment, or was only good because of who else was on it.

It was just his trick of turning his back on the audience that fooled people into thinking otherwise.

[goodeats]

I really, really appreciate this post, Tim Carman. The fact that the old culture and its traditions becoming lost and juxtaposed with modern society makes me missed the "old comfort foods" even more. Beijing Street Food (Video by Al Jazeera English).

[tcarman]

Some background on why Matamoros moved just a few blocks away from his former Silver Spring restaurant.

[Anna Blume]

Some background on why Matamoros moved just a few blocks away from his former Silver Spring restaurant.

And if you want to congratulate Chef Pedro Matamoros on his new place, come to the Silver Spring farmer's market* this Saturday (April 3) at 11 AM when he'll be cooking!

*Temporarily moved to the Gateway Plaza on Colesville and Georgia where there's a Panera on the corner.

[tcarman]

There's a small asterisk to tomorrow's reopening of Hollywood East.

[Sthitch]

I have no idea why the people on Yelp rate Sergio’s so high, but I find most Yelp reviews worthless to start with, but this article about Sergio’s comes across as more akin to the worthless Yelp comments than a professional review. Doe Sergio’s rank in the pantheon of Washington Area Italian restaurants? No, not even close, but it also does not deserve such a hit piece, and one that appears to me to be preordained, if not half written before the one meal described? But there you go Carmen, you sure showed those Yelpers who is boss.

[leleboo]

I have no idea why the people on Yelp rate Sergio’s so high, but I find most Yelp reviews worthless to start with, but this article about Sergio’s comes across as more akin to the worthless Yelp comments than a professional review. Doe Sergio’s rank in the pantheon of Washington Area Italian restaurants? No, not even close, but it also does not deserve such a hit piece, and one that appears to me to be preordained, if not half written before the one meal described? But there you go Carmen, you sure showed those Yelpers who is boss.

(I'm really confused ... I've read that Carman piece before, and yet unless I'm losing my mind and/or I've been traveling with the Doctor in the TARDIS, your link shows they've put it up again as new? Really, City Paper?)

[fuzzy510]

I have no idea why the people on Yelp rate Sergio’s so high, but I find most Yelp reviews worthless to start with, but this article about Sergio’s comes across as more akin to the worthless Yelp comments than a professional review. Doe Sergio’s rank in the pantheon of Washington Area Italian restaurants? No, not even close, but it also does not deserve such a hit piece, and one that appears to me to be preordained, if not half written before the one meal described? But there you go Carmen, you sure showed those Yelpers who is boss.

If you took that article as a feature on Sergio's, then I think it's safe to say that you missed the point entirely.

[Sthitch]

If you took that article as a feature on Sergio's, then I think it's safe to say that you missed the point entirely.

Seems safe to say that you entirely missed the point of what I wrote. Yes, it was sold as a shot at Yelp, but strange how the accompanying picture is of the restaurant’s sign, not of Yelp’s logo, but I digress… if he had wanted to write this solely as being about how Yelp commenter’s get it so wrong, he could have easily done so without the collateral damage of belittling a family owned restaurant after just one visit, maybe he could have given it the same anonymity that he gave his chef friend (which then raises the question of whether or not he has reviewed this person’s restaurants). Also, if this were entirely about Yelp, why is it that he mentions that service 3 times in the article, but the name of the restaurant 13? Yes, indeed I missed the point entirely.

[leleboo]

Seems safe to say that you entirely missed the point of what I wrote. Yes, it was sold as a shot at Yelp, but strange how the accompanying picture is of the restaurant’s sign, not of Yelp’s logo, but I digress…

And when it was originally posted in May, the picture was of the mozzarella, instead of the sign. Which leads me deeper into, why was this posted twice, almost entirely verbatim?

[fuzzy510]

Seems safe to say that you entirely missed the point of what I wrote. Yes, it was sold as a shot at Yelp, but strange how the accompanying picture is of the restaurant’s sign, not of Yelp’s logo, but I digress… if he had wanted to write this solely as being about how Yelp commenter’s get it so wrong, he could have easily done so without the collateral damage of belittling a family owned restaurant after just one visit, maybe he could have given it the same anonymity that he gave his chef friend (which then raises the question of whether or not he has reviewed this person’s restaurants). Also, if this were entirely about Yelp, why is it that he mentions that service 3 times in the article, but the name of the restaurant 13? Yes, indeed I missed the point entirely.

It's obviously not entirely about Yelp, but it's also not just "Restaurant Review: Sergio's" either.

Think about what you're asking in giving the restaurant anonymity. In order to truly do that, Carman has to provide minimal to no details about his meal or the comments made about the restaurant on Yelp. Basically, his story ends up being "I ate at a restaurant, and my experience was nothing like what they said on Yelp." How is that worthwhile at all? The details of how so much runs counter to the Yelp reviews are what make the story.

And it's not as if Sergio's was just picked at random. As Carman mentions, it's a restaurant that had received higher praise than, among others, Tosca, Bibiana and 2Amy's. You say that it's obvious that Sergio's doesn't belong in that upper echelon - doesn't that make it a perfect candidate to be analyzed here?

I guess what I don't understand is where there's such a crime in calling out Sergio's, especially if it's highly praised in another part of the food community, however spurious some of the praise may be, and especially if it's not deserving of that praise.

And sure, maybe it could have been a bit more Yelp-focused, but doing that properly involves bringing another restaurant into the fold and likely rendering the piece without the details to keep it from boiling down to "I'm right, Yelp's wrong."

[Pat]

And when it was originally posted in May, the picture was of the mozzarella, instead of the sign. Which leads me deeper into, why was this posted twice, almost entirely verbatim?

(And yes, my posts might migrate to the Y&H thread, as they really aren't relevant to Sergio's.)

Was the May version online only, or did it appear in the print edition? The current column (with the sign as illustration) appears in the print edition. When I saw that yesterday, I wondered if it might be the answer to your question. Even if they changed it a little for the print paper, they might have put an entirely new post up online.

[leleboo]

Was the May version online only, or did it appear in the print edition? The current column (with the sign as illustration) appears in the print edition. When I saw that yesterday, I wondered if it might be the answer to your question. Even if they changed it a little for the print paper, they might have put an entirely new post up online.

I think that explains it -- the original was up under the aegis of the "blog" versus the "column" as well. I still have a bit of a bad gut reaction to the same piece being published twice, but at least I know I'm not hallucinating.

[Heather]

I think that explains it -- the original was up under the aegis of the "blog" versus the "column" as well. I still have a bit of a bad gut reaction to the same piece being published twice, but at least I know I'm not hallucinating.

Sadly, it's not unusual for printed publications to recycle online content these days. Maybe the author is on vacation.

[Sthitch]

Think about what you're asking in giving the restaurant anonymity.

I agree it does not work, but then again letting this other chef anonymously slam another restaurant is complete crap as well. What do we know about this person? Is he involved with one of the restaurants that Carmen listed? My issue is not that he didn't like Sergio's, my real issue is the aforementioned anonymous chef, and that the review was based on a single visit, that delves far closer to the Yelpish "XXX really sucks, no one smiled at me, so I say never go there ever ever AGAIN!!!" In the past I have expected more of the City Paper, I guess those times have passed.

[Ericandblueboy]

Really?

Good luck. I hope you make a lot of dough.

[weezy]

Good luck, Don. I hope it makes you very wealthy.

[DonRocks]

Thanks for the well wishes! About the only thing I'd like to add is that 'wealth' is not, has never been, and will never be a primary motivator for me. I look at life with a very different perspective than the vast majority of people, and 'making a lot of dough' simply is not high on my priority list.

Cheers,

Rocks

[Waitman]

So, think this will work?

Conventional wisdom is that the web reduces costs. Yet, Mr. Rockwell is charging for what you and I would do (admittedly, less well) for free.

Irregardless (as I like to put it, irregardless of the grammarians), best of luck to Dr. Rox and I trust that tourists and conferees will be dining better for his efforts. And, that us lucky Rockwellians will continue to benefit from his wisdom for free.

Quittin' the day job. That's somethin'.

[Mark Slater]

Thanks for the well wishes! About the only thing I'd like to add is that 'wealth' is not, has never been, and will never be a primary motivator for me. I look at life with a very different perspective than the vast majority of people, and 'making a lot of dough' simply is not high on my priority list.

Cheers,

Rocks

Rocks, if you wanted to make a lot of dough, you would have been a baker. (D'oh!)

[DonRocks]

Congratulations to new Washington City Paper Food Editor and "Young and Hungry" columnist Jessica Sidman.

Here's the article from Eater - I can't resist poking fun at this one:

What They Say

Is Jess going to be considered a food critic?

That's the key question. No. Her title is food editor and I want her to write compelling, memorable journalism about food.

What They Mean

Is Jess going to be considered a food critic?

That's the key question. No. Her title is food editor and we don't have the budget to fund a restaurant critic.

[DonRocks]

"The switchover, first reported by Bethesda magazine,"

Really?

Because I could swear I remember staying up late the other night to get this information out. And I even tweeted about it.

I've always believed in giving credit where credit is due. Media outlets, check the number of incoming links you have from donrockwell.com - there will be dozens if not hundreds.

Any other takers in a little bit of journalistic ethics, or would you guys like to have a free-for-all? Happy to play it either way, but my patience is wearing thin.

[DonRocks]

During my tenure at donrockwell.com, I've watched both Todd Kliman and Tim Carman start from ground level, grow as time passed, and turn the "Young and Hungry" column into an important source of original news and restaurant journalism before moving on to bigger (and in my opinion, less appropriate) venues.

I think Jessica Sidman is now following in their footsteps, and we are witnessing her maturation and development as a writer and reporter. For quite awhile now, I haven't paid much attention to "Young and Hungry," but I've recently noticed a similar drive in Sidman that I saw in Kliman and Carman (who both went on to win James Beard Awards for Journalism). Where will she be in five years? I have no idea, but I'm very much enjoying what she's doing right now.

[FranklinDubya]

On 5/22/2014 at 2:39 PM, DonRocks said:

During my tenure at donrockwell.com, I've watched both Todd Kliman and Tim Carman start from ground level, grow as time passed, and turn the "Young and Hungry" column into an important source of original news and restaurant journalism before moving on to bigger (and in my opinion, less appropriate) venues.

I think Jessica Sidman is now following in their footsteps, and we are witnessing her maturation and development as a writer and reporter. For quite awhile now, I haven't paid much attention to "Young and Hungry," but I've recently noticed a similar drive in Sidman that I saw in Kliman and Carman (who both went on to win James Beard Awards for Journalism). Where will she be in five years? I have no idea, but I'm very much enjoying what she's doing right now.

I just discovered this entire section of the forum... one of my favorite things about this site is the historical context you get. 

Jessica Sidman is now obviously with Washingtonian, but the "drive" mentioned is above is sort of how I feel about Laura Hayes who currently runs the "Young and Hungry" column - interesting detailed stories, lot's of breaking news, and overall just a bit different feeling than the writing coming from the larger organizations.

[Tweaked]

Lets also remember Brett Anderson who wrote the Young and Hungry column in the mid to late 90s(?)(did he create the column?), who went on to cover the food scene in New Orleans.  

Sadly, I think Washingtonian has taken a nose dive since Kliman left.  Other than their annual lists, much of their content these days seems to be of the Best Boozy Brunch variety.

[DonRocks]

3 hours ago, Tweaked said:

Sadly, I think Washingtonian has taken a nose dive since Kliman left.  Other than their annual lists, much of their content these days seems to be of the Best Boozy Brunch variety.

I'm not going to make any general comments, but the disconnect between this and this is why I don't believe in groups of people ranking restaurants numerically.

[Ericandblueboy]

Doesn't young and hungry imply that you eat shit and like it?  I don't know if I trust the opinion of anyone who is young and hungry.

[DonRocks]

9 minutes ago, Ericandblueboy said:

Doesn't young and hungry imply that you eat shit and like it?  I don't know if I trust the opinion of anyone who is young and hungry.

You mean like that time SWIM went to Fast Fare at midnight, came back to the fraternity house, ate an entire jumbo bag of Doritos sitting on the floor, and found an ERASER at the bottom?

You don't know the meaning of the word "disgusting" until you've been drinking for three four five hours, have an entire bag of Doritos in your gut, and find a huge, green ERASER at the bottom of the bag.