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Eric Texier on Urban Bobos


DonRocks

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In an ongoing discussion I've been involved in, Eric Texier (a winemaker in Beaujolais) came up with this gem. Reprinted with his permission, don't worry if you don't understand the context; the thing to take away here is the term "Urban Bobos," which is about the funniest thing I've read ever.

Cheers,

Rocks

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I am 100% with you.

But I think you’re mixing 2 things which are separate factors:

“Natural” vine growing : organic, biodynamie…. In my mind, all the viticulture techniques part of the “sustainable agriculture” philosophy

And

“Laisser aller” winemaking which appeared in reaction to the 100% techno winemaking very much in favour in Bordeaux, CA, Spain and Italy during the 80s.

If “Nature” winemaking follows almost always organic or biodynamic viticulture, the reverse is not true or necessary (Huet being a perfect example).

I really believe that we need to switch to a different agriculture (including viticulture). The excesses of nature winemaking are not part of it, and I think they won’t last for long except for a small group of pseudo intellectual wine geeks or urban Bobos (Bourgeois Boheme).

I know a lot of Parisian Bobos that are very proud of drinking Mazel, because these are not the wines their parents drank. Do they care about winemaking terroir or sustainable agriculture? I rather think they are doing their Mai 68 thru nature wines :) nor more.

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Don, any chance you could get Eric to clarify what he's saying about Huet?

As for viticulture, one of the guys we represent is revolutionizing the idea of establishing a viticulture to allow for maximally soil-expressive wines in warmer climates. I'd go into more detail, but it's bedtime.

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Don, any chance you could get Eric to clarify what he's saying about Huet?

Hi Jake,

Don invited me to answer so here I am :)

Huet has been practising biodynamie in their vineyard for 20 years now, but doesn't make a commercial point out of it.

They do it. They don't yell out everywhere that they do. And this philosphy stays out the cellar.

Their winemaking is very traditionnal and their wines incredibly terroir driven.

Nothing in common with these cloudy volatile leasy cheasy "Nature" wines which taste very similar (in fact primary fruit comming from cold soak and cold fermentation).

IMHO

Eric

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This book is where I first encountered "Bobos." It's pretty amusing, especially the skewering of food culture. This line is featured in the Amazon review:
"The visitor to Fresh Fields is confronted with a big sign that says 'Organic Items today: 130.' This is like a barometer of virtue. If you came in on a day when only 60 items were organic, you'd feel cheated. But when the number hits the three figures, you can walk through the aisles with moral confidence."
No surprise this is exported to the wine world.
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[Huet's] winemaking is very traditionnal and their wines incredibly terroir driven. Nothing in common with these cloudy volatile leasy cheasy "Nature" wines which taste very similar (in fact primary fruit comming from cold soak and cold fermentation).
Care to name names on these "nature" wines, Eric?

Also, you work with some warmer climats than Huet. What are the considerations associated with hands-off winemaking when the fruit is warmer (and maybe riper) coming in? One of the most difficult issues our guys in South Africa have is avoiding oxidation.

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