Leaf Lard (Lard for Baking)

[Anna Blume]

Anyone know where to find this in Washington, D.C. or metro accessible store?

Having read the NYTs (?) article recently about making pie crusts with lard, I am interested in experimenting, though there will be some people at Thanksgiving I have never met before.

Any opinions about the use of this animal product?

I've always had a bad attitude about it (health reasons/Yankee), and now that I am willing to be a little open-minded I wonder if it's something that a polite guest shouldn't foist on others. No one attending is a vegetarian or Kosher, but there are triathletic moms who shop green and organic.

[Waitman]

Anyone know where to find this in Washington, D.C. or metro accessible store?

Having read the NYTs (?) article recently about making pie crusts with lard, I am interested in experimenting, though there will be some people at Thanksgiving I have never met before.

Any opinions about the use of this animal product?

I've always had a bad attitude about it (health reasons/Yankee), and now that I am willing to be a little open-minded I wonder if it's something that a polite guest shouldn't foist on others. No one attending is a vegetarian or Kosher, but there are triathletic moms who shop green and organic.

I am deeply of the mind that, barring religious or serious medical reasons, guests should be delighted with whatever they are served. Even if it is killing them.

If you can catch the Staurday morning H bus across the park, Truck Patch farms had some snow white pork fat just begging to be boiled down for home-cooked lard last week. Just tell your guests your pie uses a "traditional" crust, just as the pilgrims' did, one that contains no trans-fatty acids.

[V.H.]

Eco-friendly Foods at the Arlington Courthouse Farmer's market has had tubs of leaf lard in the past and I believe upon special request. I read Real Food by Nina Planck this summer and she makes a strong case for why leaf lard is so much healthier for you than say Crisco.

[mktye]

Further fat discussion here.

[zoramargolis]

Leaf lard is made from a specific source-- fat from around the kidneys. The lard that is generally available from Eco-Friendly is made from pork belly and other scrap fat. They use the kettling method (I've discussed this with Bev and Bruce). What they do is run the fat through a meat grinder, so it is all the same consistency and size, then they boil it in a kettle of water until the fat melts, and they skim off the cracklin's. It is very pure white and mild in flavor.

I don't know of any local source for lard that is specifically "leaf" lard, which is supposedly the best for pie crusts and savory pastry. But Bev's stuff is just fine--I don't think it is worth the extra trouble to try to source leaf lard. You might be able to get some from D'Artagnan in New Jersey, but you'll pay through the nose if they even have it.

I make oven-rendered lard for cooking beans and tamales--I like the extra, roast-porky flavor you get when you roast the fat. And the oven roasted cracklin's are so good!

[ol_ironstomach]

Leaf lard is made from a specific source-- fat from around the kidneys.

Waitaminnit, this is just a newfangled and trendy synonym for suet?

[zoramargolis]

Waitaminnit, this is just a newfangled and trendy synonym for suet?

Suet is beef fat.

[ol_ironstomach]

Oh yeah. Duh, me.

The NYT article that Anna references.

Google turns up this interesting bit of Canadian law which defines fats and oils in that country.

[abramer]

It's probably out of the way, but the Springfield Butcher may be able to supply this.

I asked them about being able to buy leaf lard from them a while back. The person on the counter didn't recognize the phrase "leaf lard," but said that they could sell kidney fat. I never followed up with them, so I'm not sure if it's something they still sell. Probably best to give them a call before going. 703-245-0111

[Heather]

Cedarbrook at the Dupont market offers lard. $4.95/lb, I think.

[Anna Blume]

Thanks, everyone for the recommendations, the knowledgeable post, Zora, and the encouraging wit, Waitman.

I chickened out and bought a lot of butter on sale. Having developed an interest in Edna Lewis's food, I will definitely try making piecrust with lard one day.

[Heather]

A Mighty Appetite on lard.

[Anna Blume]

Missed that, Heather, thanks.

It's a great entry with all the important references, including Nina Planck. Mario Batali and lardo have probably done a lot to make American lard more palatable, especially given these past few years of articles, books and menus featuring pigs as food.

The last time I made an all-butter crust, seizing up of a carefully crimped edge was a genuine disappointment, so it's good to read confirmation of one of the virtues of lard that was mentioned in the NYTs.

Off-topic, but this is the second time I have found someone writing about how good vinegar is in piecrust. Anyone here have experience with including it? Effect?

[Anna Blume]

Okay, okay, I'm finally going to do it. Can't believe I asked you all for advice so long ago and am just getting around to rendering me some.

I spoke to Bruce & Bev of Eco-Friendly today and need to email the latter to make sure they bring the fat to market. So, next question: how much coarse-ground fat do I need to order to get what amount?

I would like to start out small, just to see what the stuff does to a pot of beans, a pie and another thing or two.

[pizza man]

Okay, okay, I'm finally going to do it. Can't believe I asked you all for advice so long ago and am just getting around to rendering me some.

I spoke to Bruce & Bev of Eco-Friendly today and need to email the latter to make sure they bring the fat to market. So, next question: how much coarse-ground fat do I need to order to get what amount?

I would like to start out small, just to see what the stuff does to a pot of beans, a pie and another thing or two.

your going to need about a 5# of leaf lard for about a quart, or slightly less, of rendered fat.

make sure you add some water to the pot in the beginning. Also be careful not to brown the bits at all as the finished lard will take on a "porky" flavor.

-E

[zoramargolis]

So, next question: how much coarse-ground fat do I need to order to get what amount?

I would like to start out small, just to see what the stuff does to a pot of beans, a pie and another thing or two.

If they are bringing coarse-ground fat, it is a pretty sure bet that it won't all be leaf lard.

make sure you add some water to the pot in the beginning. Also be careful not to brown the bits at all as the finished lard will take on a "porky" flavor.

Since you want to use the lard for different purposes, I'd suggest doing a portion by the "kettling" method, where you are essentially melting the fat in boiling water, and another part render in the oven, and brown the cracklings. The milder kettled lard is good for pastry, but for beans, you want the richer, roast-porky flavor you get with oven-rendered lard. When I do lard in the oven, I usually pour off the majority of the melted lard and then put the cracklings back in the oven to further render and to brown. Cool a little bit and salt them--cook's treat. Start the oven at about 300-325, and then at the end if the cracklings aren't getting as brown as you want, raise the temp a little.

[Anna Blume]

No, Zora, it won't be leaf lard. I vaguely recall asking specifically for leaf lard back in the fall, but did not this time. Your earlier posts encourage me to believe I can get something good nonetheless.

P.M.: Thanks for answering my question and Zora, I was hoping for your input. I will definitely diversify methods.

[Anna Blume]

I'm in the middle of rendering my lard now.

I wish I had re-consulted this thread including link to Zora's original instructions about kettling and Pizza Man's confirmation of the benefits of the process. Bruce of Eco-Friendly neglected to say anything about adding water at the beginning, and so I did not.

I was told simply to use an extremely low heat and allow the fat to melt completely--taking approximately two hours. It's getting there.

Then, strain out all the solids, filtering it as much as possible. He recommended a chinois which I don't have. Still, there's a good fine strainer w a handle and thick paper towels and if if comes to that, a tea strainer.

Then, Bruce suggests taking this strained fat and putting it back in my heavy pot (I'm using an enameled Dutch oven) and cooking it slowly until the surface shimmers and any remaining residue/browned silt sinks to the bottom. Strain again. Done.

While I was told this is pure kidney fat, there are a lot of big meaty chunks in it. After I removed the lid, the smell is extremely porky. I ended up closing all doors, though there is none for the kitchen.

I tried ladling some and straining it through paper towels. Miracle: what looks golden when poured, strained looks clear. However, this is just a tiny bit and the melting fat is a pale shade of yellow.

I fear that adding water at the end may be too late--though maybe once all is strained, I can pour water in the bottom of the Dutch oven so the sediment doesn't burn.

* * *

And Heather, in rereading this thread fully, I see your reference to Cedarbrook which I completely forgot in placing my order a few weeks ago. I'll consider this a worthwhile project and try theirs next time around.

[ktmightve]

So, my parents are coming into town this month, and my Mom wants to try baking a pie with lard like her mom used to do. I have no idea where to get lard, and know nothing about it--I've only read that store-bought lard is terrible? To use "suet"? Is this the case? At any rate, where do I get something like this? Sorry if this is obvious--I've just never looked for it.

[ScotteeM]

I buy lard from the same farmer who supplies my meats and dairy. So I would suggest checking with some of the farmers who vend at your local farmers markets. Also check with butchers in your area. HTH.

[astrid]

Shopper's and Grandmarts also sell lard in their Hispanic foods section. That stuff is hydrogenated for shelf stability, so probably very bad for you.

[zoramargolis]

So, my parents are coming into town this month, and my Mom wants to try baking a pie with lard like her mom used to do. I have no idea where to get lard, and know nothing about it--I've only read that store-bought lard is terrible? To use "suet"? Is this the case? At any rate, where do I get something like this? Sorry if this is obvious--I've just never looked for it.

I don't know where you are located, but I can think of a couple of places in N.VA where you might be able to procure good quality lard. A call in advance is recommended.

1) The Butcher Shop at Westover Market

2) The Organic Butcher of McLean

Suet is beef fat. Not the same as pork lard, although it is used in the British Isles for traditional meat pie crusts.

[The Hersch]

Suet is beef fat. Not the same as pork lard, although it is used in the British Isles for traditional meat pie crusts.

My brief Google research suggests that suet crusts in Britain are generally used for steamed or boiled things like steak and kidney pudding and jam roly-poly, both of which sound entirely fearsome to me. For baked savory pies they seem to favor either lard or butter or both, although I chanced upon a slew of recipes for steak and kidney pie that call for puff pastry, which surely can't be traditional.