Jump to content

The Grill Room (Rosewood Hotel), 31st and K Street in Georgetown - The Departure of Chef Frank Ruta and Pastry Chef Aggie Chin


Recommended Posts

Other than second-hand information from a hotel employee, I don't have much detail to add, but Frank Ruta is apparently going to be the chef at the Cappella Hotel at 1050 31st St. NW in Georgetown.

 

I doubt "The Grill Room" will keep its name if that's the case, but for now that's all I know - I'm waiting to hear back from Frank.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And on a basis completely unrelated to the restaurant that property was a 50 year old office building designed by Vlastimil Koubek, a prolific architect in the Washington DC region.  It was owned for years by the American Trial Lawyers Association before selling it about 5 or 6 years ago for about $18 million and seeing it redeveloped into a chic boutique hotel.

Wonderful setting in a quaint part of Georgetown enhanced by sitting abreast the Georgetown section of the C & O Canal.  Great area for dining.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

darkstar, do you have any more intel on "early spring"? We are holding a reservation for a special occasion dinner on 3/22 - should we wait?

Chef Ruta's exact words to me were "maybe wait until March" so guessing you should be fine. And, important to also say I'm guessing the food now and in Feb will be very good; just a more straightforward hotel menu he's executing until the transition is complete.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We're hoping to go in late Feb...with an eye to many more. My guess is that he and his team are house curing, smoking, pickling andyounameiting all of his fine foodstuffs he includes as 'easter eggs' in his dishes which is why he is saying wait until march

Zero doubt there.  That along with just getting the lay of the land, establishing the right working relationships with owners and fully understanding the different needs for a hotel restaurant as distinct from his own destination (and neighborhood!) restaurant.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We stopped in for brunch this past weekend hoping to get an early peek but the old menu is still in place. Our server said there are just a few Ruta touches on the dinner menu so far and a bigger changeover is planned around the 18th of this month -- first dinner, then lunch. We made sure to put in a plea for the donuts. We miss the donuts.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

We stopped in for brunch this past weekend hoping to get an early peek but the old menu is still in place. Our server said there are just a few Ruta touches on the dinner menu so far and a bigger changeover is planned around the 18th of this month -- first dinner, then lunch. We made sure to put in a plea for the donuts. We miss the donuts.

Did you still enjoy it? Chef Ruta had suggested March for those of us who follow him like The Dead (the band; not literal). And, guessing any donuts will be the domain of Aggie Chin, one of the city's best pastry chefs still in the early years of her career now at Capella with him.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We thought we remembered hearing February back at the final Bread Feast, but clearly March is a better bet. The server did say she'd ask Aggie about the donuts after hearing us go into raptures about them.

The space is lovely, with a nice view of the canal during the day. The bread was outstanding, with butter at exactly the right temperature (one of our measures of a place that's paying attention). We wouldn't necessarily go back for the current menu (not the one on the website, by the way) so we're looking forward to another visit after the full Frank takeover.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...The bread was outstanding, with butter at exactly the right temperature (one of our measures of a place that's paying attention). We wouldn't necessarily go back for the current menu (not the one on the website, by the way) so we're looking forward to another visit after the full Frank takeover.

There's a reason why so many great chefs and other food professionals in this city point to Chef Ruta as teacher,mentor and role model for what great technique and food can be. If you've never seen it, go to the home page here on the site while logged in and, at lower right, you'll see "most liked content." Click it and the most popular post is a fantastic homage to Frank Ruta.

Or, easier, here's the link.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's a reason why so many great chefs and other food professionals in this city point to Chef Ruta as teacher,mentor and role model for what great technique and food can be. If you've never seen it, go to the home page here on the site while logged in and, at lower right, you'll see "most liked content." Click it and the most popular post is a fantastic homage to Frank Ruta.

Or, easier, here's the link.

Speaking of which, has Julien Shapiro landed anywhere in these environs?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't imagine you'd get a bad meal there but, speaking only for myself, Frank Ruta & Aggie Chin are 90% of my reason for going. So, mid or later March for us.

Precisely. I am not sure I can wait that long though. With as brief a fix as a BreadFurst dinner holding me over, my ability to control myself is wearing thin. I am thinking first week of March-ish.

Anyone know if any of the old Palena staff has made the leap over (esp Kelli)?

Great question but given how recent the change at ETR and not sure that he's a big social media guy, mostly crickets chirping with an online search. Don may know?

One of the best things I had *all year* in 2014 was this fish dish with the most amazing ratatouille hiding there in plain site served along with it. If Frank is Obi Wan, surely Julien must be Obi Wan jr.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Precisely. I am not sure I can wait that long though. With as brief a fix as a BreadFurst dinner holding me over, my ability to control myself is wearing thin. I am thinking first week of March-ish.Anyone know if any of the old Palena staff has made the leap over (esp Kelli)?

Kelli is a true rock star. Great to know she's at the Oval Room, a spot we don't normally frequent without a good reason.

One of the best things I had *all year* in 2014 was this fish dish with the most amazing ratatouille hiding there in plain site served along with it. If Frank is Obi Wan, surely Julien must be Obi Wan jr.

Which, I guess, makes Aggie a younger version of Leia?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kelli works at the Oval Room.

Yes, I think Frank told me that in October, now that you mention it. I hope she's doing well! Never been there (should I go?).

Kelli is a true rock star. Great to know she's at the Oval Room, a spot we don't normally frequent without a good reason.

Which, I guess, makes Aggie a younger version of Leia?

Aggie = Leia - that's awesome and yes!

I also wanted to mention Jonathan at Ghibellina - we had a few really good meals there in the past year, too. But of course, he's got his own thing going there. He froncoboldi en brodo and that porcini/balsamico ribeye are both tremendous dishes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wasn't the Palena burger 7 or 9 dollars not too many years ago?  And $12 or so in the late iterations of the cafe?  Well . . . "The Grill Room Burger ($18-$21) will appear on the lunch menu at the Grill Room and on the bar menu at the Capella hotel's Rye Bar beginning February 28."  Gulp.  This is what I was afraid of.  I'm sure that any restaurant run by Frank Ruta will be wonderful.  But the (expense-account) customers they'll be aiming for in the Capella Hotel will preclude this from being the neighborhood restaurant of our dreams, as Palena once was.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wasn't the Palena burger 7 or 9 dollars not too many years ago?  And $12 or so in the late iterations of the cafe?  Well . . . "The Grill Room Burger ($18-$21) will appear on the lunch menu at the Grill Room and on the bar menu at the Capella hotel's Rye Bar beginning February 28."  Gulp.  This is what I was afraid of.  I'm sure that any restaurant run by Frank Ruta will be wonderful.  But the (expense-account) customers they'll be aiming for in the Capella Hotel will preclude this from being the neighborhood restaurant of our dreams, as Palena once was.

You know what? You're probably right, Marty. But don't forget that Palena was losing money, and eventually had to be shut down.

Both the burger and the chicken (a half-chicken! which came with greens!) were nine dollars when they debuted on Palena's front-room menu, and they stayed that way for years. But we can't be judging a 2015 A Capella against a 1990s Palena.

It's better to have Frank a few times a year than not at all, and don't forget, many people don't think twice about bellying up to the bar at Central and shelling out $20 for a bacon cheeseburger, monstrous though it may be.

Just as a general point, isn't it wonderful that we're talking about Frank Ruta again, rather than lamenting him being somewhere in Pittsburgh? We lost Fabio for awhile, and even though we're paying dearly for his return, we still got him back.

One thing's for sure: food costs seem to have remained high, but when they first started skyrocketing, oil prices were cited as a primary reason why. The other day, I paid something like $2.15 a gallon for 87 octane unleaded, and it cost me $33 to fill my tank whereas it once went dangerously close to the $70 mark.

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You know what?

Just as a general point, isn't it wonderful that we're talking about Frank Ruta again, rather than lamenting him being somewhere in Pittsburgh? We lost Fabio for awhile, and even though we're paying dearly for his return, we still got him back.

TRUTH.  I may not like higher prices, but having access to Frank/Aggie food again is, IMHO, worth just about anything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You know what? You're probably right, Marty. But don't forget that Palena was losing money, and eventually had to be shut down.

Both the burger and the chicken (a half-chicken! which came with greens!) were nine dollars when they debuted on Palena's front-room menu, and they stayed that way for years. But we can't be judging a 2015 A Capella against a 1990s Palena.

It's better to have Frank a few times a year than not at all, and don't forget, many people don't think twice about bellying up to the bar at Central and shelling out $20 for a bacon cheeseburger, monstrous though it may be.

Just as a general point, isn't it wonderful that we're talking about Frank Ruta again, rather than lamenting him being somewhere in Pittsburgh? We lost Fabio for awhile, and even though we're paying dearly for his return, we still got him back.

One thing's for sure: food costs seem to have remained high, but when they first started skyrocketing, oil prices were cited as a primary reason why. The other day, I paid something like $2.15 a gallon for 87 octane unleaded, and it cost me $33 to fill my tank whereas it once went dangerously close to the $70 mark.

I agree with all of this, of course -- indeed, better to enjoy Frank's food one time a year than not at all!  I only yearn for the perfect storm that once was the Platonic ideal of neighborhood restaurants, viz., when that burger was $9, and one had to choose between it and the ethereal ambrosia of the consomme (or even order both, and not break the bank!). 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Love Don's post above above with the right (imho) lens through which to view the current Grill Room setup. Very important perspective I think. Just clicking "like" wasn't enough? :-)

That said, and this is NOT based on any inside information, I think the day will dawn again when Frank Ruta helms a kitchen where he has total control. Not sure where it will be, or what it will be called, but with the deserved following he has, I think it inevitable. Maybe a year from now. Maybe a few. If Vegas offered odds on this, I'd have placed my bet before posting this. And I'm not a gambler.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK....I can't stand it. I just made reservations to go in early March. I must go. Must. Even if there are only still hints at/on the menu of the genius that this duo is/are, I don't care. I can wait no longer.

Plus, they do corkage, which is always a bonus in my book.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK....I can't stand it. I just made reservations to go in early March. I must go. Must. Even if there are only still hints at/on the menu of the genius that this duo is/are, I don't care. I can wait no longer.

Plus, they do corkage, which is always a bonus in my book.

My favorite post of the past week. Maybe wear a small red carnation on your left lapel? We may be there the same night. :-)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My favorite post of the past week. Maybe wear a small red carnation on your left lapel? We may be there the same night. :-)

Saturday! I hear they have a largish party arriving at 8, so wondering if I should pull back my 7:45 ressies a smidge.  If I could wear an aloha-wear jacket, I would (it's almost my trademark, but Dean may fight me for the title).

Not to mention, I am so glad I made the ressies today when I did given this column.

Also, given the new wine guy's desire to build the cellar from small producers, I might have to bring a couple he should load up on.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Saturday! I hear they have a largish party arriving at 8, so wondering if I should pull back my 7:45 ressies a smidge.  If I could wear an aloha-wear jacket, I would (it's almost my trademark, but Dean may fight me for the title).

Not to mention, I am so glad I made the ressies today when I did given this column.

Also, given the new wine guy's desire to build the cellar from small producers, I might have to bring a couple he should load up on.

That sounds great. Goldston-Ruta-Chin is a definite culinary All-Star team for this city; just with the quirk that it's in a hotel.

As for the aloha-wear jacket, I wouldn't worry too much about Dean. Haven't yet made it to his new Grotto spot in Shaw but, when he was in Cleveland Park, he pretty consistently wore aloha-wear SHIRTS. So, the kind of thing the Patent & Trade Office might cut you some slack on. You'll be there before us. Enjoy it and definitely report back, as I'm guessing you will enthusiastically,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That sounds great. Goldston-Ruta-Chin is a definite culinary All-Star team for this city; just with the quirk that it's in a hotel.

As for the aloha-wear jacket, I wouldn't worry too much about Dean. Haven't yet made it to his new Grotto spot in Shaw but, when he was in Cleveland Park, he pretty consistently wore aloha-wear SHIRTS. So, the kind of thing the Patent & Trade Office might cut you some slack on. You'll be there before us. Enjoy it and definitely report back, as I'm guessing you will enthusiastically,

Actually I do not have an aloha-wear jacket, but it'd be awesome don't you think?

It sounds like they are easing in to converting the menu to Frank-style over time. I think I'll be getting a hint at what is to come, but it will be fun to see how it evolves.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually I do not have an aloha-wear jacket, but it'd be awesome don't you think?

It sounds like they are easing in to converting the menu to Frank-style over time. I think I'll be getting a hint at what is to come, but it will be fun to see how it evolves.

Re: jacket. Absolutely! Something like this might fit the bill. Of course, important that it be 100% polyester as this is.

Re: easing in. Exactly. I'm guessing you'll have a great meal Saturday, with some definite deja vu components. Then, at some point later, you'll be able to top it. A clear win/win.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry for the belatedness of this report, I should have written this a month ago!

When I learned that Frank Ruta was debuting some dishes during Restaurant Week I immediately made reservations for lunch and dinner. Both meals were wonderful, and the RW lunch was the most insane steal imaginable. I'll do my best to describe both meals, but the details are a little hazy from the time that's gone by.

Dinner started with a fresh hot loaf of bread that had a fantastic crust, and some soft butter lightly sprinkled with a coarse salt that added a lovely crunch and flavor. I appreciate the attention paid to details, like serving the butter warm and using a nice salt, and we were off to a good start. The first course was a rapini salad accompanied by some delicious fried slices of lemon. I wish I knew more about cooking so I could figure out how to make those lemon slices, because I kind of want to put them on everything. It could be the easiest thing in the world, but I know if I were to slice up lemon, bread it, and fry it, it wouldn't bear any resemblance to what I had. The next course was braised beef, which was so wonderfully tender it basically melted from the fork into my mouth. It was deeply and intensely flavorful; my only complaint was that the spicing was a little clove-heavy for my taste (and I like clove!), but I still enjoyed every moment of it. It came with a small dish of thinly sliced potatoes that had a really nice bite of citrus. Dessert was a Baked Alaska, which was a delicious end to a delicious meal.

Lunch started off with the bread again, allowing me ample opportunity to scatter a mess of crumbs all over the table before the salad arrived. The first course was a blood orange salad that knocked my socks clean off. I was a little giddy to see the fried lemon slices make a repeat appearance, cut up into smaller pieces this time. It was also sprinkled with fried capers, which I never had the joy of experiencing before. Those things are such amazing little crunchy bombs of flavor, I'm surprised I haven't see them used more often. Then came the chicken. Enough has already been said about the chicken around these forums, and it was just as good as I remember from Palena. Accompanying it was a small cast iron bowl of black eyed pea soup that was simply wonderful. I wish I had a bigger bowl of it, the soup was so warm and flavorful and just put a big stupid smile of "I can die in peace" contentment on my face. Dessert was the Baked Alaska again. While it was just as tasty as before, this is where my lone complaint from an amazing lunch came. At dinner, it was an entire, small Baked Alaska. For lunch, they served a slice from a larger one instead. The slice was so thin and tall that it was impossible to keep the whole thing standing, and the cast iron dish it was on was so narrow that it kept threatening to take a nosedive over the edge straight onto the table. I had to dismantle the whole thing on my plate in order to eat it.

Altogether, I'd say the caliber of food for both RW meals was comparable with Palena Cafe with flashes from the dining room. I took a peek at the regular menu price for the chicken: it was either $27 or $29 (I think $29), a healthy bump from what it was before, but still worth it. I still have a really hard time believing that that lunch was ever available for $20.15. The dinner was also a steal at $35.15. What really blew my mind was that the dining room was close to empty the entire time I was there for lunch. I think there was just one table in a corner and one other table next to me, and the people next to me weren't even doing the RW menu. During dinner the dining room never even hit half full. It continually astounds me how little attention the DC food world pays to one of its greatest chefs. I'm really itching to see what Ruta starts putting out here after he's had time to tweak and fine tune his new menu.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Accompanying it was a small cast iron bowl of black eyed pea soup that was simply wonderful. I wish I had a bigger bowl of it, the soup was so warm and flavorful and just put a big stupid smile of "I can die in peace" contentment on my face.

The thing about Frank's food is that the accompaniments, hiding in plain sight, often steal the show from the main part of his dishes/entrees. The attention to detail is par for the course for Frank (and Aggie), but exceptional compared to the rest of the world of chefs out there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The thing about Frank's food is that the accompaniments, hiding in plain sight, often steal the show from the main part of his dishes/entrees. The attention to detail is par for the course for Frank (and Aggie), but exceptional compared to the rest of the world of chefs out there.

So very true. The pickles (and ketchup) with the burger. Capers and edible citrus rind. And on and on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Two days before awesomeness ensues. Can. Not. Wait.

You're a cruel dude...of course in a way I know you totally don't intend.  :)

On a more substantive note, a business associate of mine is in town and went last night with his wife. They're from the Bay Area, of course home to a few awesome eateries themselves.  I couldn't get details today but may tomorrow morning.  All I got so far was "quite excellent" but that's from someone who goes wherever his wife books with neither of them having any sense for who Frank Ruta is.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...