The Grill Room (Rosewood Hotel), 31st and K Street in Georgetown - The Departure of Chef Frank Ruta and Pastry Chef Aggie Chin

[darkstar965]

What a great report! Informative and seriously entertaining. So, three questions from one big Chef Ruta fan to another.

1. That "sauce!" Can you amplify this a bit? What was it exactly, with the sole? Color? Possible ingredients?

2. The gnocchi. Simple question here. Was it the same as it was? To me, this was one of the iconic, best-in-the-region dishes he did in Cleveland Park. Your photo here does look similar. If different at all, how?

3. The fried lemon, crispy capers and egg with the chicory salad reminds very much of Chef's fantastic take on a Caesar he used to do; though the photo looks nothing like that did. Guess that's more statement than question so, er...Do you agree?

[Pool Boy]

What a great report! Informative and seriously entertaining. So, three questions from one big Chef Ruta fan to another.

1. That "sauce!" Can you amplify this a bit? What was it exactly, with the sole? Color? Possible ingredients?

2. The gnocchi. Simple question here. Was it the same as it was? To me, this was one of the iconic, best-in-the-region dishes he did in Cleveland Park. Your photo here does look similar. If different at all, how?

3. The fried lemon, crispy capers and egg with the chicory salad reminds very much of Chef's fantastic take on a Caesar he used to do; though the photo looks nothing like that did. Guess that's more statement than question so, er...Do you agree?

1) Hmmmm, I only got one slurp. Butter, maybe a snippet of saffron and the sea (really). Maybe they took the lobster shells and parts and made a broth from it - that'd be a good guess.

2) I don't think I ever had this specific variation of gnocchi at Palena, so this was truly new to me. I mean, I had the gnocchi in many forms there before, but not this one. So good.

3) I do remember that variation. But the chicories provide sucha bracing difference in texture and flavor that I think this is better.

After some time, I have some more thoughts, too.

-One glaring omission from his current menu is *no consomme*. I believe this will be rectified eventually.

-I would love to see Frank experiment again with boudin variations. This may have been a plaything of past staffers (Julien?), but I still dream of a shrimp boudin in a broth they did.

-There was an olive stuffed cod that was sorely tempting us both, but we stuck to a more cabernet-friendly meal. It sounded amazing.

[Pool Boy]

My wife pinged me late this afternoon to say that my post here made the main page at Eater, I have no idea if that is a good thing or a bad thing, but I find it hilarious.

[darkstar965]

My wife pinged me late this afternoon to say that my post here made the main page at Eater, I have no idea if that is a good thing or a bad thing, but I find it hilarious.

Indeed. They quoted your effusive line about "that sauce" which also got my interest just above. Here you go.

Congrats...or something. :-)

[DanielK]

The average post on this site is better than what normally shows up on Eater, so no surprise to me that they would highlight a well written DR.com post.

[dinwiddie]

Thomas, er Pool Boy, what was the corkage fee?

[Pool Boy]

$25 a bottle.

[darkstar965]

And now appropriately italicized in the Official DonRockwell Dining Guide!

Guessing BOLD will have to wait until some time passes, things settle fully, and Don can do some primary research. :-)

[DonRocks]

And now appropriately italicized in the Official DonRockwell Dining Guide!

Guessing BOLD will have to wait until some time passes, things settle fully, and Don can do some primary research. :-)

Yeah, I saw that post in the other thread - this was merely an oversight on my part. Anything with comments is at least in Italic and vice-versa - I had the comments in; I had just neglected to put it in Italic.

As for the next step up, I've never put a restaurant in that category that I haven't visited twice - even Riverstead and Patowmack Farm, neither of which I've been to yet. It would be bogus for me to do otherwise, but I fully expect John Shields, Tarver King, and Frank Ruta to be in that highest category. However, I expected the same with The Oval Room, and had to drop it because of the steak - there's no room for error at the very top, even though I'm grading on a curve. The last restaurant to be raised was Rogue 24.

BTW, this isn't any secret, but Keith Goldston is the Sommelier (and I assume F&B Director) here now. Keith was the second Master Sommelier in the DC area, after Fran Kysela, but before Kathy Morgan, Jarad Slipp, and Andy Myers. Range, needless to say, has lost quite a bit of opening talent.

Important: don't expect the wine program to instantly improve. Unlike with a new chef, old inventory has to be circulated out or disposed of, and it takes time to develop a new cellar (the same goes with Mark Slater at Hunting Creek, the difference being that Mark probably wasn't burdened with as much older inventory). It's a huge luxury for a sommelier to walk in and design a program from scratch, rather than having to try and pawn off existing stock. I highly recommend taking advantage of the corkage program at The Grill Room for awhile.

[Pool Boy]

Yeah, I saw that post in the other thread - this was merely an oversight on my part. Anything with comments is at least in Italic and vice-versa - I had the comments in; I had just neglected to put it in Italic.

As for the next step up, I've never put a restaurant in that category that I haven't visited twice - even Riverstead and Patowmack Farm, neither of which I've been to yet. It would be bogus for me to do otherwise, but I fully expect John Shields, Tarver King, and Frank Ruta to be in that highest category. However, I expected the same with The Oval Room, and had to drop it because of the steak - there's no room for error at the very top, even though I'm grading on a curve. The last restaurant to be raised was Rogue 24.

BTW, this isn't any secret, but Keith Goldston is the Sommelier (and I assume F&B Director) here now. Keith was the second Master Sommelier in the DC area, after Fran Kysela, but before Kathy Morgan, Jarad Slipp, and Andy Myers. Range, needless to say, has lost quite a bit of opening talent.

Important: don't expect the wine program to instantly improve. Unlike with a new chef, old inventory has to be circulated out or disposed of, and it takes time to develop a new cellar (the same goes with Mark Slater at Hunting Creek, the difference being that Mark probably wasn't burdened with as much older inventory). It's a huge luxury for a sommelier to walk in and design a program from scratch, rather than having to try and pawn off existing stock. I highly recommend taking advantage of the corkage program at The Grill Room for awhile.

There is a Dal Forno Valpolicella that I was ogling. Almost cheap enough......almost.

FWIW, Keith has brought in the new toys at least -- the stemware is stellar!

[darkstar965]

There is a Dal Forno Valpolicella that I was ogling. Almost cheap enough......almost.

FWIW, Keith has brought in the new toys at least -- the stemware is stellar!

What was it? Spiegelau? Riedel? Silver chalices?

[Pool Boy]

They are, I think, probably the highest end Schott Zwiesel stems they make. The cabernet glasses were mountainous.

[DPop]

Once the word gets out this place will be packed with the see-and-be-seen crowd.  Beautiful dining room and patio and somehow the chicken is even better than I remember it.  Really looking forward to a dinner here next month.

[Pool Boy]

Has anyone dined in the Rye Bar? It so looks like a place you do not eat at, hence the question. I want to go back for a burger, but am hesitant to make the schlep without know it is possible or not.

[Rovers2000]

I was there to meet friends before a birthday and you can eat there (you essentially have to grab one of the big chairs or the couch with table - and eating gets awkward b/c its not really the "dining" table height).

In addition to a replication of Palena's Manhattan I enjoyed a fry plate that was reminiscent of Palenas prime.  I literally almost squealed with delight at the sight of the fried lemons.

[darkstar965]

Once the word gets out this place will be packed with the see-and-be-seen crowd.  Beautiful dining room and patio and somehow the chicken is even better than I remember it.  Really looking forward to a dinner here next month.

Word is out. Between the TS review last week and more WaPo coverage about Justice Bader Ginsburg doing a celebratory dinner there last week, this is the new hot spot until Chefs Ziebold and Bruner Yang; maybe Brandwein and Stefanelli...get their new places open.

[DPop]

......and Langhorne and Chang.....  2015 looks to be a big year for new dining destinations in the District.

[darkstar965]

After really enjoying the meal and getting our coats on, we asked the waiter if business had changed noticeably since the "new chef" came in.  He smiled broadly and said, "Oh yes!  About half the customers are from the hotel and half because of the Chef. It's much busier than it was."

No doubt that was why the Capella's owners brought Frank Ruta (and Aggie Chin) in and allowed him to refashion the menu, now nearly or entirely complete.

I don't want to repeat what has already been shared upthread but there haven't been many reports yet since Frank Ruta's "Grill Room" is still a relatively newer phenomenon in DC.

Though Chef Ruta started in January, I purposefully waited until now to try it, wanting things to settle and for the menu to fully reflect his cooking, which I've so missed since Palena tragically closed.  So, when I learned that a good friend, who loves great food and has lived in NW DC for more than ten years, had never been to Palena (sacre bleu!), I hatched the plan to go and create yet another Frank Ruta fan.  Low hanging fruit I figured. And, last night, it was.

HEADLINE

Mission Accomplished!  Though the name and venue are nondescript, The Grill Room is unmistakably, and quite fantastically, Chef Frank Ruta.

VENUE

As we've already read on this thread, some (maybe many) are going to miss the neighborhood feel of Palena here at the Capella's Grill Room.  And, that's to be expected since, however notable and exceptional the cuisine, it is a luxury hotel restaurant.  It feels like a luxury hotel even if it doesn't so much taste like a typical one.  A few observations about the venue itself:

-  As PoolBoy reported, valet parking is $11 and not validated for Grill Room diners. For those not familiar with Georgetown, your best bet for street parking will usually be Water St down 31st next to the Potomac River since there are many more spots there than along the North-South and East-West running streets of Georgetown. At prime time on a Friday night, we just valeted (sp?) it.

-  As now typical with any hotel, free WiFi is available in the lobby and in the bar and restaurant.  At 4-6Mbs (down), this is fast enough for browsing, email and even video but doesn't compare well to the 20-50MB speeds available in other hotels, Starbucks, most homes and many coffee shops now. For a several-hundred-per-night hotel, as the Capella is, this struck me as surprisingly slow. This is obviously a criticism of the hotel and has nothing to do with the restaurant.

- The bar and restaurant are both very typical luxury hotel in design, with the one exception being that they're adjacent to the Georgetown Canal.  In the cooler months, this is better in concept than in actuality since, between the restaurant and canal is an outdoor patio so the full beauty and serenity of the water will be most apparent in warmer weather.  We were thrilled to be seated next to the canal-side window but not so aware of the canal per se.

-  The Rye Bar, immediately on the right as you enter the Capella from 31st St NW, has seating for about 15-18 with 5 comfortable bar seats and about 5 smaller two-top tables, though there may have also been one for four or the "couch" that Rovers2000 referenced upthread.  Rovers made a good point about the table height being suboptimal for dining but this will depend on the diner.  They are lower, bar type tables. Personally, I'd have no problem devouring The Burger or The Chicken at one (more on this later)  but not everyone will feel the same.

- The Grill Room itself, again very typical of high-end hotels, is quite lovely and comfortable and calm enough for quiet conversation as you'd expect.  In the middle is a glass enclosed table that also has curtains. We wondered if that's where Ruth Bader Ginsburg celebrated her birthday last week but didn't ask. Agree with PoolBoy here on the tables being very solid, maybe a bit too deep, and the seats impressively ample and comfortable.

THE RYE BAR

We didn't have pre-dinner drinks here but did check it out fully afterward to better understand the capacity, setup and dining options since there were some questions on that upthread.  On the latter, all will be happy to know that, in addition to a fairly limited bar menu (with the famed Palena "Fry Plate"!), one can eat at the bar and can ask for most anything from the dinner menu to be served there (during dinner hours, of course).  I confirmed this with the bartender. So, if you're pining for The Burger or The Roast Chicken at the Rye Bar one night, you're in luck!  Not sure they'll offer that option but just ask. You can thank me later for this tidbit. 

SERVICE

To be honest, we were a bit worried soon after being seated alongside the canal patio.  Our softer-spoken and perfectly-nice waiter asked quickly if we'd like to order cocktails or drinks and, after deferring when we asked for a minute to get our bearings, reappeared quickly with a full champagne cart. He then proceeded to narrate each of the 6 or 7 bottles (mostly a full range of Taittinger) on the cart., taking maybe 3-4 minutes to do it.  We hadn't indicated any interest in champagne or anything at that point.

Fortunately, that was the outlier and, with just one exception so minor that it's not worth mentioning, the service was entirely friendly yet professional in every way.  Our waiter was able to answer any question, we wanted for nothing and were very well taken care of.  Exactly as one would expect at any luxury hotel though perhaps not quite to the level of a Marcel's, Eve, the Oval Room or spots like Citronelle or The Inn in their best days.  Will say, as a long-time and regular Palena customer, that I did feel a bit disoriented by this but not in a bad way.  Simply stated, it's luxury hotel restaurant service versus high-end neighborhood restaurant service. No one like Kelli here and nobody will confuse the service here with that of Rose's or Red Hen, but nor should someone expect it to be that way.

THE FOOD (!)

Yep, this is a Frank Ruta menu alright. I hereby declare it safe, proper and open season for all Chef Ruta fans to now book as able!  

The menu is appreciably focused on a single, large-format page with half a dozen starters, three pastas, and nine mains split 3/6 between Fish and Meat respectively.  There was also a 5-course tasting menu ($135) and I loved that they allow specific courses to be selected from it along with a la carte options as I did since this isn't always welcomed by restaurants with tasting menus. My understanding is that the menu will change regularly with core favorites (like The Chicken) remaining. Here's what we had, with pricing:

Grill Room Salad ($13):  I started with this generically named salad to demonstrate to my friend that nothing Chef Ruta makes, however named, is ever ordinary.  Specific components here were "Organic greens and lettuces, shaved radish, roasted beets, and hazelnut local honey vinaigrette."  I make a lot of vinaigrettes at home with salads but hadn't used some of the interesting honeys we've been buying recently so this inspired me.  This salad was wonderful in its simplicity with beets that weren't too sweet, too firm or too soft.  And, with a similarly balanced vinaigrette that perfectly complemented the fresh vegetables at room/cool temperature, but stayed in the background.

Butternut Squash, Shiitake and Sprouted Barley Soup ($15) with lime cream and pimento d' espelette.  My dining companion ordered this and, while I didn't try it, she said "wow!" and isn't' the easily-impressed type. It looked like the work of a chef with insane attention to detail, which, of course, it was. 

Oxtail Consomme, "Celestine" ($15-20) (!!!!!) with "first of the season Morels, shaved angus beef and julienne buckwheat crepe".  I love wild mushrooms of all kinds so probably would have ordered this anywhere but, inasmuch as this may have been the first consomme on menu here (not sure), it was a no-brainer for a Frank Ruta consomme fan like me.  It didn't disappoint.  This brought back many, many great memories from Cleveland Park. On one hand, a classic representation of consomme Celestine with the julienned crepe but absolutely with the Ruta touch. It was a wonderful, magical even (inasmuch as hard for me to speculate how he does it), rich, sophisticated, multi-layered and perfectly clarified broth with nicely proportioned and balanced use of the beef, morels and other seasonings.  Just a fantastic 'bowl of soup' though it would seem horribly wrong to describe it solely that way.  This alone, with a Mark Furstenberg bread, in a ski lodge, after a day on the slopes, would be utterly blissful.

Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi ($18) with sweet potatoes, wild rice, shimeji mushrooms, fonduta and reggiano.  Gnocchi is one of  5 or 6 Palena dishes that I always thought were the best of their kind in the city, as in noone else was doing it better.  I purposefully didn't order this since I was keen to branch out a bit having had it many, many times at Palena and thought it a surefire way to hook my dining companion. Sure enough, more "wows" here.  As soon as it landed on the table, I recognized the savory, impossibly light and pillowy soft gnocchis right away.  Can't really convey how delighted I am that This, The Consomme, The Burger, The Chicken and a handful of other things are again available in DC.

Norwegian Cod ($32) stuffed with gaeta olives & braised with parsley, celery and morels.  In full disclosure, Pool Boy piqued my interest with this dish since it was something he noticed but didn't order.  I didn't remember this exact dish from Palena but had many memories of perfectly cooked fish dishes with interesting and innovative components.  This was absolutely perfect and delicious with the gaetas (often compared to kalamatas but maybe a bit saltier and fruitier and, importantly, Italian versus Greek!) and morels.  Leaner fish like this (along with That Sauce!  :-)) probably exhibits the skills of the chef as much as any dish since one has to be really experienced and a perfectionist to cook fish perfectly so consistently and flavorfully, as Chef Ruta does.  Loved it!

We had two of Aggie's wonderful desserts. Pool Boy already described one, the flagship "Georgetowner" at the top of the dessert menu so I won't repeat that.  We also had one of Aggie's newest creations, called a "Baci Sbagliati" ($12)* which was sublime. I love when chefs modernize traditional foods and, by that I mean, taking something most known and loved as a 1970s-90s processed food replete with artificial colorings, colorings, HFCS and the rest and remaking it using entirely real and high-quality ingredients to be almost healthy as well as insanely delicious.  Aggie does this dessert with two kinds of ice cream (one hazelnut, I believe) and a base of devils food cake (think "Devil Dogs" with their mystery cream).  This was fabulous, with the cake reminiscent of devil dogs but so, so much better. What devils food is supposed to be, once was and is again.

Finally, we each just ordered glasses of wine.  A sauv blanc for my friend and one of the more interesting and delicious Rieslings I've had in awhile.  Unasked, they topped us off later in the meal, which we of course really appreciated since it wasn't expected.

BOTTOM LINE & VALUE

He's Back! And the setup here can be either sublime and fairly expensive or more affordable but still frickin' delicious, depending on how you order. I think a couple could dine here for anywhere between $100 and several hundred depending on the mains ordered and, of course, the amount spent on wine or drinks. Our total, also for two post tax and tip, came out to just a bit more than half of what Pool Boy reported with most of that difference accounted for by alcohol. The Chicken is $28 with pastas at $18 or $19. Mains run from a $21 (misprint?) Dover Sole to the $44 Dry Aged Shenandoah Angus Ribeye. Certainly nothing that's cheap but, for this level of cooking, not out of whack at all in my opinion. That said, I do join my voice with others who pine for the possible future day when Chef Ruta may again open a neighborhood restaurant.  For now though, I understate the case by a huge margin to say I'm thrilled there is again a place to go and have dinner made by Chef Ruta.

FINAL "DEEP THOUGHT"

A humble perfectionist is the best kind of Chef.

* This translates litterally as "kisses missed" but I suspect something more was at play when Aggie named it.  Maybe the next to report here can inquire?

[The Hersch]

I haven't been yet, but hope to go soon. It is a neighborhood restaurant for me, being about a six- or seven-minute walk from my Foggy Bottom (not West End) home.

[darkstar965]

I haven't been yet, but hope to go soon. It is a neighborhood restaurant for me, being about a six- or seven-minute walk from my Foggy Bottom (not West End) home.

Probably obvious but I use "neighborhood" not so much in the sense of location or proximity but, rather, in terms of the model, pricing, types of dishes and constituencies targeted.

[The Hersch]

Probably obvious but I use "neighborhood" so much in the sense of location or proximity but, rather, in terms of the model, pricing, types of dishes and constituencies targeted.

I understand that, of course. On the other hand, Palena, especially the fancy part, was pretty damned expensive. Thank you for the detailed report.

[Pool Boy]

Oxtail Consomme, "Celestine" ($15-20) (!!!!!) 

Nice report! CONSOMME! Yesssssssssssssssssssssssss! And I am glad, though hardly surprised, that the Cod dish was exceptional. I was kind of kicking myself for not ordering it. I mean, normally we bring a bottle of red and a bottle of white and decide which to open based on what's on the menu and which way we are leaning that evening. And the description of Aggie's dessert was awesome. Loved it.

I am weak when it comes to ordering when it is Frank and Aggie doing their thing. I wish I could dial 1-800-rent-a-stomach to try the whole menu. Hence why my tab ends up being higher. I just can't help myself. Ah, I need to plan my return again soon.

One clarification point - You are allowed to order items off of the tasting menu (if you are otherwise ordering off the regular menu), right? That's great! I wonder if he'll allow insertings in to the tasting menu/proposed meal, too. Hmmm.

And now I really want to go to the bar for a burger. Glad to hear there are two-tops there. A weeknight foray cannot be impossible then!

[darkstar965]

Nice report! CONSOMME! Yesssssssssssssssssssssssss! And I am glad, though hardly surprised, that the Cod dish was exceptional. I was kind of kicking myself for not ordering it. I mean, normally we bring a bottle of red and a bottle of white and decide which to open based on what's on the menu and which way we are leaning that evening. And the description of Aggie's dessert was awesome. Loved it.

I am weak when it comes to ordering when it is Frank and Aggie doing their thing. I wish I could dial 1-800-rent-a-stomach to try the whole menu. Hence why my tab ends up being higher. I just can't help myself. Ah, I need to plan my return again soon.

One clarification point - You are allowed to order items off of the tasting menu (if you are otherwise ordering off the regular menu), right? That's great! I wonder if he'll allow insertings in to the tasting menu/proposed meal, too. Hmmm.

And now I really want to go to the bar for a burger. Glad to hear there are two-tops there. A weeknight foray cannot be impossible then!

Literallly Laughed Out Loud at this.  On the bolded part, yes.

[Thomas P]

+1 to the insanely happy that consomme is appearing on the menu. I was a regular consumer of the steak, chicken, burger, and gnocchi at Palena Cafe but only managed to make it to the back dining room once - on the final night of service. One of the things I'll remember for the rest of my life was the beef consomme I had during that meal. Beautifully clear and so rich in flavor, with thin flakes of something floating on top that melted into little bursts of heaven as soon as they hit your tongue. I'm too much of a novice to know what they were, but I'd guess thinly shaved foie gras?

I have a feeling my pocketbook is going to hate me for the next few months.

[The Hersch]

I was just poking around the Grill Room menu online, and there, under Fish, was "Dover Sole Stuffed with Cod and Lobster, Kumamoto Oysters, Spinach, Champagne-Pernod Sauce" -- for $21. That can't be right, can it? Especially since the grilled yellowfin tuna just below it is $36. Anyway, I want one.

[darkstar965]

+1 to the insanely happy that consomme is appearing on the menu. I was a regular consumer of the steak, chicken, burger, and gnocchi at Palena Cafe ...

All those years of missed opportunity. You should have said hi! :-)

I was just poking around the Grill Room menu online, and there, under Fish, was "Dover Sole Stuffed with Cod and Lobster, Kumamoto Oysters, Spinach, Champagne-Pernod Sauce" -- for $21. That can't be right, can it? Especially since the grilled yellowfin tuna just below it is $36. Anyway, I want one.

I noted this in my report but buried it some to check if you'd really read it. :-). It was on the printed menu at the same price, $7 less than The Chicken and the least expensive main. We didn't order so can't confirm. Pool Boy did order this but may not remember since pretty clear he was in a frenzied stupor brought on by sauces and the like so memory may fail him.

Another research trip may be the only way to confirm or debunk this admittedly odd anomaly. And, being so close, you'd be just the man to do this...assuming you've gotten that other quite critical mission nearby accomplished?

[rbh]

we were there last weekend too.  I will be nowhere near as eloquent as pool boy or darkstar.  But overall, it was outstanding.  So the pricing for the dover sole is for an appetizer portion.  We got both this and the gnocchi to start and had the chicken and the tuna for mains.  The dover sole was excellent... just one of those dishes where the preparation on each of the ingredients would even just be good on its own and then when you put it all together, it hits that surreal level.  I can't add anything beyond what has been said about the gnocchi.  I never had the chicken at Palena, but if the Grill Room version is that, I definitely missed out at Palena especially when it was at a significantly lower price point.  the flavor.... the juiciness.  Bottle of sancerre.... want to say about $70.

Danielle was our server.... her descriptions of the dishes literally made our mouths water.  We wanted her to describe a couple other dishes just to hear her delivery.  As the others have said, it is definitely a very nice space with extremely comfortable chairs.  A little loud in the room when full, but good spacing on the tables so you don't feel like you're hearing the next table's conversations.  a little disappointed to have missed out on the tasting menu by a week now though

[The Hersch]

All those years of missed opportunity. You should have said hi! :-)

I noted this in my report but buried it some to check if you'd really read it. :-). It was on the printed menu at the same price, $7 less than The Chicken and the least expensive main. We didn't order so can't confirm. Pool Boy did order this but may not remember since pretty clear he was in a frenzied stupor brought on by sauces and the like so memory may fail him.

Another research trip may be the only way to confirm or debunk this admittedly odd anomaly. And, being so close, you'd be just the man to do this...assuming you've gotten that other quite critical mission nearby accomplished?

If your report had mentioned the lobster and the oysters and the champagne-pernod sauce, I might have taken notice. And if you think I'm going to put La Perla ahead of the Grill Room you can think again, pal!

I see from rbh's report that the Dover sole extravaganza is an appetizer portion, so the mistake isn't the price but the placement on the menu (at least the one online).

[darkstar965]

we were there last weekend too. I will be nowhere near as eloquent as pool boy or darkstar. But overall, it was outstanding. So the pricing for the dover sole is for an appetizer portion. We got both this and the gnocchi to start and had the chicken and the tuna for mains. The dover sole was excellent... just one of those dishes where the preparation on each of the ingredients would even just be good on its own and then when you put it all together, it hits that surreal level. I can't add anything beyond what has been said about the gnocchi. I never had the chicken at Palena, but if the Grill Room version is that, I definitely missed out at Palena especially when it was at a significantly lower price point. the flavor.... the juiciness. Bottle of sancerre.... want to say about $70.

Danielle was our server.... her descriptions of the dishes literally made our mouths water. We wanted her to describe a couple other dishes just to hear her delivery. As the others have said, it is definitely a very nice space with extremely comfortable chairs. A little loud in the room when full, but good spacing on the tables so you don't feel like you're hearing the next table's conversations. a little disappointed to have missed out on the tasting menu by a week now though

Thanks for this post, rbh! Great to get another perspective and yours is the first to actually report on the Grill Room incarnation of the chicken. Two thank you gifts herewith.

First, no doubt you're not alone in not having had The Chicken at Palena. Some, here lurking or reading, may not even understand what all the hullabaloo can be about such a pedestrian dish. For you, and for them, enjoy.

Second, now you have me thinking we dropped a ball not taking advantage of the tasting menu. For others interested in this, and because Fruday night's was different from the menu online, this is the tasting menu from two nights ago. I leave out only the oxtail consommé since I described that upthread.

"Tonight's Proposed Menu ($135)

Madai, Urchin and Apple Crudo with lime creme fraiche, pickled cauliflower

The heavenly consommé (my paraphrase there :-))

Atlantic Black Bass with Bouchot Mussels, Gulf Shrimp and Calamari; Pearl cous cous cooked with saffron

Muscovy Duck Leg and Hudson Foie Gras with the leg braised with Harissa and Gaeta Olives; Foie Grass grilled, crispy polenta, baby bok choi

Pipe Dreams Goat Cheese Blancmange with Grapefruit, Blood Orange, Yogurt, Black Pepper

If your report had mentioned the lobster and the oysters and the champagne-pernod sauce, I might have taken notice. And if you think I'm going to put La Perla ahead of the Grill Room you can think again, pal!

I see from rbh's report that the Dover sole extravaganza is an appetizer portion, so the mistake isn't the price but the placement on the menu (at least the one online).

Indeed we are in rbh's debt for solving that mystery since Pool Boy may still be sleeping off his adventure and you have, well, shall we say, reinterpreted your previously stated agreements. :-)

[Pool Boy]

Literallly Laughed Out Loud at this.  On the bolded part, yes.

I gotta be me. And believe me, back at Palena when he changed up the menu for the dining room to be either a la carte on one side and proposed meal on the other, I begged and groveled enough to get snippets of one or the other on to the other menu option. I am a good groveler.

+1 to the insanely happy that consomme is appearing on the menu. I was a regular consumer of the steak, chicken, burger, and gnocchi at Palena Cafe but only managed to make it to the back dining room once - on the final night of service. One of the things I'll remember for the rest of my life was the beef consomme I had during that meal. Beautifully clear and so rich in flavor, with thin flakes of something floating on top that melted into little bursts of heaven as soon as they hit your tongue. I'm too much of a novice to know what they were, but I'd guess thinly shaved foie gras?

I have a feeling my pocketbook is going to hate me for the next few months.

Yeah probably either foie or etehreally thin cut beef. My guess is tossed in right after plating to 'cook' in the few moments it takes to bring the dish to your table.

I was just poking around the Grill Room menu online, and there, under Fish, was "Dover Sole Stuffed with Cod and Lobster, Kumamoto Oysters, Spinach, Champagne-Pernod Sauce" -- for $21. That can't be right, can it? Especially since the grilled yellowfin tuna just below it is $36. Anyway, I want one.

As mentioned already, it is an appetizer portion, but it is still A STEAL. The sauce may have addled my brain for a bit, but if you have it, you will understand. I like being addled in this way.

All those years of missed opportunity. You should have said hi! :-)

I noted this in my report but buried it some to check if you'd really read it. :-). It was on the printed menu at the same price, $7 less than The Chicken and the least expensive main. We didn't order so can't confirm. Pool Boy did order this but may not remember since pretty clear he was in a frenzied stupor brought on by sauces and the like so memory may fail him.

Another research trip may be the only way to confirm or debunk this admittedly odd anomaly. And, being so close, you'd be just the man to do this...assuming you've gotten that other quite critical mission nearby accomplished?

I resemble that remark.

we were there last weekend too.  I will be nowhere near as eloquent as pool boy or darkstar.  But overall, it was outstanding.  So the pricing for the dover sole is for an appetizer portion.  We got both this and the gnocchi to start and had the chicken and the tuna for mains.  The dover sole was excellent... just one of those dishes where the preparation on each of the ingredients would even just be good on its own and then when you put it all together, it hits that surreal level.  I can't add anything beyond what has been said about the gnocchi.  I never had the chicken at Palena, but if the Grill Room version is that, I definitely missed out at Palena especially when it was at a significantly lower price point.  the flavor.... the juiciness.  Bottle of sancerre.... want to say about $70.

Danielle was our server.... her descriptions of the dishes literally made our mouths water.  We wanted her to describe a couple other dishes just to hear her delivery.  As the others have said, it is definitely a very nice space with extremely comfortable chairs.  A little loud in the room when full, but good spacing on the tables so you don't feel like you're hearing the next table's conversations.  a little disappointed to have missed out on the tasting menu by a week now though

And that, that is Frank, folks.

Thanks for this post, rbh! Great to get another perspective and yours is the first to actually report on the Grill Room incarnation of the chicken. Two thank you gifts herewith.

First, no doubt you're not alone in not having had The Chicken at Palena. Some, here lurking or reading, may not even understand what all the hullabaloo can be about such a pedestrian dish. For you, and for them, enjoy.

Second, now you have me thinking we dropped a ball not taking advantage of the tasting menu. For others interested in this, and because Fruday night's was different from the menu online, this is the tasting menu from two nights ago. I leave out only the oxtail consommé since I described that upthread.

"Tonight's Proposed Menu ($135)

Madai, Urchin and Apple Crudo with lime creme fraiche, pickled cauliflower

The heavenly consommé (my paraphrase there :-))

Atlantic Black Bass with Bouchot Mussels, Gulf Shrimp and Calamari; Pearl cous cous cooked with saffron

Muscovy Duck Leg and Hudson Foie Gras with the leg braised with Harissa and Gaeta Olives; Foie Grass grilled, crispy polenta, baby bok choi

Pipe Dreams Goat Cheese Blancmange with Grapefruit, Blood Orange, Yogurt, Black Pepper

Indeed we are in rbh's debt for solving that mystery since Pool Boy may still be sleeping off his adventure and you have, well, shall we say, reinterpreted your previously stated agreements. :-)

I mean, I love all of the food and desserts there - but man I want those two dishes now. Stat! Clear!

[DanielK]

I hate to be a contrarian, but we had a good but decidedly not great meal there Saturday night, and we won't be running back anytime soon.

Two notes about the room and service before I describe the food. First, we thought the service from the waitstaff was excellent, but we had to ask, TWICE, to have water glasses refilled. Minor, but at Palena (and any other restaurant at this price point in DC) your glass would never have gotten below half-full. Second, i disagree with the assertion that the room is "calm enough for quiet conversation as you'd expect." It's pretty loud. Since the tables are deep (and too high for us short people - my SO and I were thinking of sitting on our jackets), we were too far away for easy conversation. You definitely had to raise your voice to be heard.

We elected to create our own 4-course tasting meal: starter, pasta, main, dessert. We each chose a different item for each course and shared. We also had a couple of excellent cocktails and each a glass of wine.

Maine Lobster Salad 18 (Roasted and shaved raw heirloom beets, Horseradish, Lime, and Cumin) - several nice big chunks of sweet, perfectly cooked lobster, but there was no play between the other ingredients and the lobster. After trying to combine several times, we gave up and ate the lobster separately, and then ate the rest of the salad. Horseradish, lime, and cumin were barely there.

Amish Rabbit en Porchetta 18 (Celeriac Remoulade, Mustard Fruits, Kale Salad, Pickled Daikon) - this was the dish of the night, and exactly what I want from Ruta. All of the ingredients together were a harmony greater than the individual components. I would go back in a heartbeat if the other courses were all like this.

Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi 18 (Sweet Potatoes, Wild Rice, Shimeji Mushrooms, Creamy and Crumbled Castelmagno) - ok, the gnocchi was perfect, of course, but I had to read the menu twice at the end of the night - there was Castelmagno cheese in the dish? Not in mine, I don't think.

Boudin Blanc 22 (Pearl Onions and Brussels Sprouts Glazed with Verjus, Troffie Pasta with Foie Gras Froth) - the boudin was lovely, but the sprouts could have been crispier, and they didn't serve with a spoon to capture the broth that collected at the bottom of the bowl.

Suckling Pig Trio 35 (Stuffed breast, grilled loin, braised shoulder, with apples, glazed beets and kohlrabi) - rivaled the rabbit for dish of the night. Each of the cuts was fabulous, and the sides just brought the entire dish together.

Braised beef cheek and Venison Loin Duo 36 (Parsnip Purée, braised red cabbage) - The cabbage oddly was the star of the plate! The venison was excellent, but the current menu says short rib, not beef cheek, and I think that's what they served us even though our menus definitely said cheek. Disappointing from that perspective.

We had the Baci and Georgetowner for desserts - both very good, but each only a few bites - seemed a bit skimpy for a $12 dessert.

Again, we had a good meal, but that above added up to $250 + tax/tip. I expected more WOW moments at that price, and from a chef like Ruta. A year ago, I had a better, and substantially cheaper meal, at Palena. Perhaps my expectations were too high, but it will be a while before I return for a second chance.

[darkstar965]

Daniel,

FWIW, contrarianism is great in my book. Love the writeup however different in tone and bottom line than mine, A few questions/observations:

- where were you seated? Your take on the noise level being so different from mine, I'm just wondering. Alongside the canal window where we were, we weren't close to other tables. Maybe that location and my height helped.

- I assume you went to Palena many times when it was open so have that baseline with which to assess the experience here. Is that right?

- sounds like you ordered very differently from us except for the gnocchi, which I didn't personally try but my dining companion loved, and the desserts. You do seem to agree with Pool Boy on the porchetta and the suckling pig three ways fwiw.

- your bill was closer to Pool Boy's than ours. Neither here nor there but due to drinks and a couple of extra courses. Clearly the restaurant is expensive so had better wow to encourage repeat visits. While it did do that for me, totally understand why it didn't for you.

Once again, appreciate the report!

[DanielK]

We might have been at the same table as you - by the canal window, and the door was open for half the meal. Maybe the Saturday crowd was just more boisterous?

I can't say I was a regular at Palena, but I'd eaten in the back room a few times, including not long before they closed. More than a few meals at the bar.

[Pool Boy]

I hate to be a contrarian, but we had a good but decidedly not great meal there Saturday night, and we won't be running back anytime soon.

Two notes about the room and service before I describe the food. First, we thought the service from the waitstaff was excellent, but we had to ask, TWICE, to have water glasses refilled. Minor, but at Palena (and any other restaurant at this price point in DC) your glass would never have gotten below half-full. Second, i disagree with the assertion that the room is "calm enough for quiet conversation as you'd expect." It's pretty loud. Since the tables are deep (and too high for us short people - my SO and I were thinking of sitting on our jackets), we were too far away for easy conversation. You definitely had to raise your voice to be heard.

We elected to create our own 4-course tasting meal: starter, pasta, main, dessert. We each chose a different item for each course and shared. We also had a couple of excellent cocktails and each a glass of wine.

Maine Lobster Salad 18 (Roasted and shaved raw heirloom beets, Horseradish, Lime, and Cumin) - several nice big chunks of sweet, perfectly cooked lobster, but there was no play between the other ingredients and the lobster. After trying to combine several times, we gave up and ate the lobster separately, and then ate the rest of the salad. Horseradish, lime, and cumin were barely there.

Amish Rabbit en Porchetta 18 (Celeriac Remoulade, Mustard Fruits, Kale Salad, Pickled Daikon) - this was the dish of the night, and exactly what I want from Ruta. All of the ingredients together were a harmony greater than the individual components. I would go back in a heartbeat if the other courses were all like this.

Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi 18 (Sweet Potatoes, Wild Rice, Shimeji Mushrooms, Creamy and Crumbled Castelmagno) - ok, the gnocchi was perfect, of course, but I had to read the menu twice at the end of the night - there was Castelmagno cheese in the dish? Not in mine, I don't think.

Boudin Blanc 22 (Pearl Onions and Brussels Sprouts Glazed with Verjus, Troffie Pasta with Foie Gras Froth) - the boudin was lovely, but the sprouts could have been crispier, and they didn't serve with a spoon to capture the broth that collected at the bottom of the bowl.

Suckling Pig Trio 35 (Stuffed breast, grilled loin, braised shoulder, with apples, glazed beets and kohlrabi) - rivaled the rabbit for dish of the night. Each of the cuts was fabulous, and the sides just brought the entire dish together.

Braised beef cheek and Venison Loin Duo 36 (Parsnip Purée, braised red cabbage) - The cabbage oddly was the star of the plate! The venison was excellent, but the current menu says short rib, not beef cheek, and I think that's what they served us even though our menus definitely said cheek. Disappointing from that perspective.

We had the Baci and Georgetowner for desserts - both very good, but each only a few bites - seemed a bit skimpy for a $12 dessert.

Again, we had a good meal, but that above added up to $250 + tax/tip. I expected more WOW moments at that price, and from a chef like Ruta. A year ago, I had a better, and substantially cheaper meal, at Palena. Perhaps my expectations were too high, but it will be a while before I return for a second chance.

Great report, even if it was not stellar. I have it on some authority that the kitchen is still pretty understaffed (not that this should matter, but merely an observation).

That said, I highlighted a few spots on your post. My comments -

--That's not cool you had to ask for your water glasses to be refilled. That was the opposite of my experience.

--I will agree to a certain extent on your comment about conversation. When our evening started, it was pretty easy to have a conversation without raising our voices. But as the evening wore on, and the room got even more filled up, it did. We'll tall folk (I.m 6'4" and my wife is 6'0"), so if the table was deep for me, I can only imagine what it must be like for folks shorter than me.  Maybe they'll take notice.  Also, when we went, the side doors were all closed (too cold still). I wonder if you got spillover noise from the Rye Bar patrons. When we left that evening, it was *LOUD* in the Rye Bar. Since they both abut the canal, and presumably both had access to the outdoor space, maybe that was part of it?

--The bit about no spoon or other utensil to grab and contain jus, gravy, sauce or other liquid bits is something they MUST address. Given the quality of the food, not being able to get this without some finagling (sp?) is annoying. I'd pick up the plate and lick it, but I am pretty sure some people in the room would be horrified if I did that. That said - you got some boudin! I've been pining for *any* kind of Frank boudin for some time now.

-- The two highlight dishes for you were my tops as well. Incredible both of them. But your comment about the cabbage -- that is so Frank. The substitution of rib vs. cheek is annoying, but part of me wants to believe that is bad menu printing management (which I assume is the responsibility of.....GM?). Bummer though.

It is fairly easy to contain your meal cost there, I should point out. It is still expensive, but you could go three courses instead of four. Or share an app or a dessert or both (my experiences at Palena are, when we wanted to share something, they always, always split it on to two plates for us so as to make sharing easier).  Their cocktails are very high priced, so it is an easy nix if cost is a concern.

Ah well, at least it was not a bad experience, just good vs great. Thanks for the report!

[DanielK]

It is fairly easy to contain your meal cost there, I should point out. It is still expensive, but you could go three courses instead of four. Or share an app or a dessert or both (my experiences at Palena are, when we wanted to share something, they always, always split it on to two plates for us so as to make sharing easier).  Their cocktails are very high priced, so it is an easy nix if cost is a concern.

Ah well, at least it was not a bad experience, just good vs great. Thanks for the report!

It was a special occasion meal, so the price was not a concern. But if I am spending that kind of money, the (admittedly minor) concerns I had should not be present.

I'm definitely not telling people not to go, but IMO they are not (yet?) where they should be. If I went again in the near future, I would nibble at the bar instead of the dining room.

[Pool Boy]

It was a special occasion meal, so the price was not a concern. But if I am spending that kind of money, the (admittedly minor) concerns I had should not be present.

I'm definitely not telling people not to go, but IMO they are not (yet?) where they should be. If I went again in the near future, I would nibble at the bar instead of the dining room.

I agree on both fronts (and I believe kinks will get worked out over time, too). I want to hit up the bar soon, too! Honestly, I cannot wait for Spring and Summer, because what he and his team do with vegetables is amazing.

[darkstar965]

It was a special occasion meal, so the price was not a concern. But if I am spending that kind of money, the (admittedly minor) concerns I had should not be present.

I'm definitely not telling people not to go, but IMO they are not (yet?) where they should be. If I went again in the near future, I would nibble at the bar instead of the dining room.

This is totally fair. Both on the expectation for the money (though we had no water refill issues either but one odd opening bit with a champagne cart as described; also minor). And, your "yet" is spot on. The menu has bern near-fully converted to his vision but they are still staffing up and training new hires in the kitchen.

We were more fortunate I guess on Friday. Loved every bit of the experience, including value as we spent less. But, operationally front and back of house, it will only get better with time. Can take that to the bank knowing a little about how Frank Ruta runs his kitchen.

[porcupine]

DanielK, I'm glad you posted a contrary view.  Mr. P and I dined at The Grill Room with two friends about two weeks ago, and all four of us were vaguely disappointed.  But I thought the suckling pig trio was downright boring.

[Pool Boy]

DanielK, I'm glad you posted a contrary view.  Mr. P and I dined at The Grill Room with two friends about two weeks ago, and all four of us were vaguely disappointed.  But I thought the suckling pig trio was downright boring.

What I love about this site is the ability for everyone to share their opinion and not get lambasted for it. We disagree on the dish in question by a large degree, but hey, food is a very personal thing, so it's all good.

[porcupine]

What I love about this site is the ability for everyone to share their opinion and not get lambasted for it. We disagree on the dish in question by a large degree, but hey, food is a very personal thing, so it's all good.

Agreed.  My opinion in no way diminishes yours.  I just reacted differently to the dish.  I was reluctant to post a contrary view largely because our friends were recognized by one of the staff and then we all got free courses and drinks.

[wrash]

I'm eating there in a couple of days with some not-to-be-named folks from that government housing unit over on 16th street. Any suggestions as to what I should think about ordering? This isn't on my dime. Thanks.

[darkstar965]

I'm eating there in a couple of days with some not-to-be-named folks from that government housing unit over on 16th street. Any suggestions as to what I should think about ordering? This isn't on my dime. Thanks.

Definitely read this thread above. We've detailed most every dish on the menu with good and well-supported opinions, pro and con, related to many of them.  If you read those posts, you'll be the table expert for sure. Enjoy dinner and good to hear those bureaucrats are getting out a little. 

[Pool Boy]

I'm eating there in a couple of days with some not-to-be-named folks from that government housing unit over on 16th street. Any suggestions as to what I should think about ordering? This isn't on my dime. Thanks.

If it was someone else's expense account, and they had no, uh, limit, I'd try the tasting menu since it seems to be online now. But that is me. I do not think you can go wrong either way.

[reedm]

Four of us enjoyed a great evening this past Saturday. Two of us ordered the tasting menu, and our wives ordered a la carte. I don't have time to provide details now, but we enjoyed every minute of it. Highlights included the duck (incredibly complex sauce featuring harissa--much more like a mole), the consomme, and the goose egg ravioli.

I'm don't typically focus on desserts, but their offerings were incredible. In particular, the madeleine offering was superb. Buttery, crunchy, not too rich, and smooth. Their pastry/dessert chef is amazing.

To top it off, Keith is a master sommelier, one of only four in the DC area, and he hit a home run with the wine pairings, as well as with the by the glass offerings.

Service was beyond my expectation, and I'd return again.

Prices were fair, but be advised we spent about $200 per person, inclusive of tax and tip.

Cheers.

[jonstewart]

Dined here the early evening of St. Patrick's Day, maybe the second table seated. It was expensive, but a great meal and, frankly, I thought the dining room was a better setting for Chef Ruta's food than Palena.

We had no issue with noise or service. The champagne cart thing was downright awkward, but service was otherwise correct and we appreciated that they split a salad for us on separate plates (without us asking; we only noted we'd share it).

My wife had the Maine Lobster salad, I had the rabbit en porchetta, and we split the fried lemons salad. I found the rabbit too subtle, but the maine lobster salad was good and generous, and the fried lemons salad sublime. For mains, my wife had the tuna and I had the suckling pig trio. I'd say something about the tuna, beyond the generic "delicious", but the suckling pig demanded all my memory-forming attention. It and the fried lemons salad were the standout savory dishes of the night. I can no longer remember what my wife had for dessert; I had the Georgetowner; both were great desserts.

Someone a few tables over brought in several bottles of wine. I was hoping they'd be a DR post so I could find out what was being poured. Looked like at least one white Burgundy...

Very happy to be able to eat Chef Ruta's food again.

[darkstar965]

Four of us enjoyed a great evening this past Saturday. ...

I'm don't typically focus on desserts, but their offerings were incredible. In particular, the madeleine offering was superb. Buttery, crunchy, not too rich, and smooth. Their pastry/dessert chef is amazing.

...

Aggie Chin: The "Amazing" Pastry/Dessert Chef.

Just wanted to highlight the dessert part of your post, reedm. Aggie is great and, though lesser known than Chef Ruta and Keith since earlier in her career, is a fast-rising star.

[DPop]

Just prior to my dinner at the Grill Room last week, I read what DanielK, a poster who I enjoy and tend to agree with, had to say about his experience.  I have to say, I was a bit surprised by some of the things he had to say regarding his dinner, particularly the piece about Grill Room not delivering considering the price point.  The majority of the individual dish reviews seemed positive, so how could he come away with an even somewhat disappointing feel for his meal?  Maybe he was having a bad day or his expectations were too high?  I didn't give it much thought until we were on our entree courses and I realized that I felt the exact same way about my meal as he did about his.

In short, the Amish Rabbit en Porchetta and the Trio of Suckling Pig are every bit as good as described above.  Clearly the work of a chef of Frank Ruta's caliber and reminiscent of some of the outstanding dishes I had at Palena over the years.  I would order both of these again in a heartbeat.

Shockingly, the Oxtail Consomme was the lowlight of our meal, and unfortunately the one we were most looking forward to when we were ordering.  Maybe it was our mood, or maybe we were fondly remembering the Autumn Consomme from Palena, but this did not resonate at all with either of us (particularly my SO). Her feeling was that this was a punched up version of pho, with the slightly tough beef and floating julienned vegetables giving off a vibe of something you might find in a strip mall in Northern Virginia for $7 rather than $18 at a very posh hotel in Georgetown.  I feel like it was the ingredients moreso that the execution on this dish, so it might be unfair to beat it up, but I really wish this had been better.

The Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi was similar to the one DanielK had, with the addition of some very firm fava beans.  I liked this dish, much like I did at Palena, but found the whole thing quite bland, especially if you didn't get one of the delicious little salt-bomb shimeji mushrooms in your bite.  The fonduta and reggiano were very much underscored here, present to the eyes but not so much on the palate.  "Well crafted, perfectly cooked, and a bit boring" would be my one sentence review of this dish.

The Dover Sole was a miniscule dish, a barely 2 inch long piece of sole stuffed fairly liberally with cod and lobster.  I didn't love the sauce as much as PoolBoy, finding the whole dish to be a bit understated and lacking in texture outside of the deliciously firm and plump oysters sitting in the bottom of the bowl.  This was not bad but did not meet expectations based on what I read.

5 dishes between us and while we wouldn't say any of them were not good and certainly well executed, I don't think we had enough to justify the price tag (and we didn't even have wine).  This would have been a great meal at the prices we were used to at Palena, but is maybe a bit too big of a pill for us to swallow when considering the now fantastic number of dining options we have in DC.  I can certainly see us coming back at some point, but maybe early Fall for a nice meal on the patio and a fully settled kitchen churning out the spot-on food that they are capable of.

[Pool Boy]

Just prior to my dinner at the Grill Room last week, I read what DanielK, a poster who I enjoy and tend to agree with, had to say about his experience.  I have to say, I was a bit surprised by some of the things he had to say regarding his dinner, particularly the piece about Grill Room not delivering considering the price point.  The majority of the individual dish reviews seemed positive, so how could he come away with an even somewhat disappointing feel for his meal?  Maybe he was having a bad day or his expectations were too high?  I didn't give it much thought until we were on our entree courses and I realized that I felt the exact same way about my meal as he did about his.

In short, the Amish Rabbit en Porchetta and the Trio of Suckling Pig are every bit as good as described above.  Clearly the work of a chef of Frank Ruta's caliber and reminiscent of some of the outstanding dishes I had at Palena over the years.  I would order both of these again in a heartbeat.

Shockingly, the Oxtail Consomme was the lowlight of our meal, and unfortunately the one we were most looking forward to when we were ordering.  Maybe it was our mood, or maybe we were fondly remembering the Autumn Consomme from Palena, but this did not resonate at all with either of us (particularly my SO). Her feeling was that this was a punched up version of pho, with the slightly tough beef and floating julienned vegetables giving off a vibe of something you might find in a strip mall in Northern Virginia for $7 rather than $18 at a very posh hotel in Georgetown.  I feel like it was the ingredients moreso that the execution on this dish, so it might be unfair to beat it up, but I really wish this had been better.

The Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi was similar to the one DanielK had, with the addition of some very firm fava beans.  I liked this dish, much like I did at Palena, but found the whole thing quite bland, especially if you didn't get one of the delicious little salt-bomb shimeji mushrooms in your bite.  The fonduta and reggiano were very much underscored here, present to the eyes but not so much on the palate.  "Well crafted, perfectly cooked, and a bit boring" would be my one sentence review of this dish.

The Dover Sole was a miniscule dish, a barely 2 inch long piece of sole stuffed fairly liberally with cod and lobster.  I didn't love the sauce as much as PoolBoy, finding the whole dish to be a bit understated and lacking in texture outside of the deliciously firm and plump oysters sitting in the bottom of the bowl.  This was not bad but did not meet expectations based on what I read.

5 dishes between us and while we wouldn't say any of them were not good and certainly well executed, I don't think we had enough to justify the price tag (and we didn't even have wine).  This would have been a great meal at the prices we were used to at Palena, but is maybe a bit too big of a pill for us to swallow when considering the now fantastic number of dining options we have in DC.  I can certainly see us coming back at some point, but maybe early Fall for a nice meal on the patio and a fully settled kitchen churning out the spot-on food that they are capable of.

Well damn.

I guess it is going to take a bit for these bumps in the road to be ironed out. While I am a little intrigued that the dover sole accompanying sauce was not a hit, of far greater concern was that the consomme was kind of a dud for you. I am wondering in the demands of a full hotel service is gumming up the works here. It shouldn't, but you never know.

I am probably not getting back here until late May at the earliest or early August at the latest (barring a check in of the bar menu of course), so I will report back as well at that time. Spring or summer are some of my favorite times for all things food, so we'll see.

[Thomas P]

Being a huge fan of Chef Ruta it kills me to write anything less than glowing, but I've been back to the Grill Room several times now and I'm chiming in to agree with a large bulk of what DPop and DanielK have said. The Restaurant Week Lunch was by far the best and most consistent meal I've had there, and my return trips have been consistently good with sprinkles of greatness. I've noticed inconsistency in the service as well - sometimes the service is spot on, other times I've had servers making awkward conversation and had problems like others have mentioned with my water not being filled up, noticing the rest of the dining room with empty water glasses too (and also witnessed a knocked over glass that the server kind of cleaned but someone else had to follow up because there was still water on the table). I'm really not sure what to expect now from one trip to the next, but I've never left unhappy, just not as happy as I'd hoped at times. Everyone is always very pleasant, though, regardless of whether or not the service was great. As to what I've thought about the dishes I've had so far:

Starting bread - The first time they set a basket of bread in front of me I was really sad that they switched away from the small fresh loaves of bread from before. That sadness didn't last long. It looked like there were some slices of the previous bread, which I tried first. Still a lovely crust and a wonderful crumb. Next was some multigrain wheat bread that was also good. Then I had the biscuits - wow. These were so fluffy and moist and buttery and delicious I could have gorged myself on a basket of them and died immediately of coronary heart failure. The cornbread was last, which was some of the finest cornbread I've had at a restaurant, probably behind only Jacques-Imo's in New Orleans - a little sweet but not too sweet and perfectly moist with just the right texture. Unfortunately, it's been inconsistent on return trips (either that or my judgement is inconsistent). I've found the biscuit to range from the perfectly made bliss to pretty good but a little dry, and the cornbread to range from wonderful to pretty good but a little bland.

Smoked Salmon, Cream Cheese, Yukon Gold Potato amuse-bouche - This was a delightful and delicious bite, all of the flavors worked well and I was sad I wasn't at a table with people who hate fish so I could steal theirs.

Rabbit en Porchetta - At first I was a little disappointed, but as I kept tasting it the flavors kept sneaking up on me, and by the end the bites were positively singing. The bits of pickled vegetables were delightful, as was the perfect little slice of endive on the side. This was an excellent dish.

Oxtail Consomme from the tasting menu - This was a tasty soup, but I guess I was expecting the delicacy of the consomme I had (the one time I tried it) at Palena. Like DPop, I found it disappointing, although maybe that's just from the bar having been set so high before. The vegetables, mushrooms, and beef I thought were all a bit chunky and not nearly as tender as I expected. On a side note, they really need to switch to new spoons. The ones they're using are long and narrow and TERRIBLE for eating soup. It's like you're pouring things into your mouth with an ice scoop, and it's damn near impossible to get to the broth at the bottom of the bowl.

Stuffed Veal Breast with Quail Egg - I had a similar experience as with the Rabbit en Porchetta, where at first I was okay with it but by the end it was wonderful. And, like the endive with the rabbit, the asparagus that accompanied it was absolutely perfect.

Gnocchi - I have to admit that I was never huge on the gnocchi at Palena, and while I enjoyed it this time more than before, DPop pretty much nailed my thoughts on it. The gnocchi itself was perfectly cooked and ridiculously soft and velvety. The flavors were wonderful when I found them, but they were so subdued that most of the time I was left with that same feeling of blandness. I found myself savoring the small amount of broth at the bottom of the bowl to liven up the bites. The dish also left my mouth as soon as I finished it, which is unusual for a Frank Ruta dish for me. Typically, even if I was ho hum about a dish while eating it, the flavors linger around for a long time afterwards in the most wonderful way possible. I do think, though, that if you loved the gnocchi at Palena, this will not disappoint.

Goose Egg Ravioli - Holy crap this was good. The ravioli were amazing, and the pork belly was insane. If I had any criticism, it would be that the pork belly was so tender it bordered on being spongy, but this dish has been the highlight of my trips so far.

Roasted Chicken - After a perfect, amazing rendition of the roasted chicken during restaurant week, I came back and ordered it again. While it was still a delicious, flavorful, juicy chicken, it was probably the driest I've ever had from Chef Ruta. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't dry, but it didn't quite have the same moistness, succulence, and tenderness I've gotten used to. It was still just as flavorful and the skin was still perfection, but I wasn't sure any more about shelling out $28 for it. I've also noticed that I hear a lot of conflicting things about the brining: I've heard at least 3 days to brine, and I've had servers at Grill room tell me that the chicken is brined for at least 1 day, and this last time I was told at least 12 hours. In my experience with brining, 12 hours (or even a day) is not nearly long enough for a 3 lb bird to reach the proper level of salinity by normal techniques, but I have no idea if what they're saying is accurate.

Angus Beef Oxtails Vaccinara - It took me a little while to figure out how to get the meat off the oxtails gracefully. Once again, on my first bite I was very so so about this dish, but as I kept eating it kept getting better and better until it I was really loving it by then end. My first impressions were that the beef was cooked too far, a bit bland, and the tomatoes weren't incorporated very well into the stew. Wrong on all counts, this was a wonderful dish. The asparagus (white, in this dish) was, again, perfectly cooked and the egg added a great thickness and flavor. I wasn't sure about the pine nuts, though.

Just Say 'Ah' - I'm not a big dessert person, but I enjoyed this. The fennel sorbet was lovely, and the dish had a very earthy quality I loved.

Baci Sbagliati - I enjoyed this one as well, the mousse was velvety and delicious. I was sad I had finished my coffee before it came out, they would have been lovely together.

Parting trio - Chef Aggie sends out a trio of desserts to end the meal, a wonderful little macaroon, some of the most delicious caramel I've had the pleasure of eating, and... well, I don't know what it technically is because I'm a culinary idiot, but some sort of fruity, rich, delicious, red block of gel.

All in all, I've left happy but not euphoric from my meals at the Grill Room. For the price tag that accompanies the meals, that's not a good thing. While everything's been good, I've found it moving farther and farther away from the level of what Chef Ruta was putting out at Palena. Inconsistency in the cooking and service are probably to blame, but it's unfortunately making me more and more hesistant to go back.

[reedm]

Being a huge fan of Chef Ruta it kills me to write anything less than glowing, but I've been back to the Grill Room several times now and I'm chiming in to agree with a large bulk of what DPop and DanielK have said. The Restaurant Week Lunch was by far the best and most consistent meal I've had there, and my return trips have been consistently good with sprinkles of greatness. I've noticed inconsistency in the service as well - sometimes the service is spot on, other times I've had servers making awkward conversation and had problems like others have mentioned with my water not being filled up, noticing the rest of the dining room with empty water glasses too (and also witnessed a knocked over glass that the server kind of cleaned but someone else had to follow up because there was still water on the table). I'm really not sure what to expect now from one trip to the next, but I've never left unhappy, just not as happy as I'd hoped at times. Everyone is always very pleasant, though, regardless of whether or not the service was great. As to what I've thought about the dishes I've had so far:

Starting bread - The first time they set a basket of bread in front of me I was really sad that they switched away from the small fresh loaves of bread from before. That sadness didn't last long. It looked like there were some slices of the previous bread, which I tried first. Still a lovely crust and a wonderful crumb. Next was some multigrain wheat bread that was also good. Then I had the biscuits - wow. These were so fluffy and moist and buttery and delicious I could have gorged myself on a basket of them and died immediately of coronary heart failure. The cornbread was last, which was some of the finest cornbread I've had at a restaurant, probably behind only Jacques-Imo's in New Orleans - a little sweet but not too sweet and perfectly moist with just the right texture. Unfortunately, it's been inconsistent on return trips (either that or my judgement is inconsistent). I've found the biscuit to range from the perfectly made bliss to pretty good but a little dry, and the cornbread to range from wonderful to pretty good but a little bland.

Smoked Salmon, Cream Cheese, Yukon Gold Potato amuse-bouche - This was a delightful and delicious bite, all of the flavors worked well and I was sad I wasn't at a table with people who hate fish so I could steal theirs.

Rabbit en Porchetta - At first I was a little disappointed, but as I kept tasting it the flavors kept sneaking up on me, and by the end the bites were positively singing. The bits of pickled vegetables were delightful, as was the perfect little slice of endive on the side. This was an excellent dish.

Oxtail Consomme from the tasting menu - This was a tasty soup, but I guess I was expecting the delicacy of the consomme I had (the one time I tried it) at Palena. Like DPop, I found it disappointing, although maybe that's just from the bar having been set so high before. The vegetables, mushrooms, and beef I thought were all a bit chunky and not nearly as tender as I expected. On a side note, they really need to switch to new spoons. The ones they're using are long and narrow and TERRIBLE for eating soup. It's like you're pouring things into your mouth with an ice scoop, and it's damn near impossible to get to the broth at the bottom of the bowl.

Stuffed Veal Breast with Quail Egg - I had a similar experience as with the Rabbit en Porchetta, where at first I was okay with it but by the end it was wonderful. And, like the endive with the rabbit, the asparagus that accompanied it was absolutely perfect.

Gnocchi - I have to admit that I was never huge on the gnocchi at Palena, and while I enjoyed it this time more than before, DPop pretty much nailed my thoughts on it. The gnocchi itself was perfectly cooked and ridiculously soft and velvety. The flavors were wonderful when I found them, but they were so subdued that most of the time I was left with that same feeling of blandness. I found myself savoring the small amount of broth at the bottom of the bowl to liven up the bites. The dish also left my mouth as soon as I finished it, which is unusual for a Frank Ruta dish for me. Typically, even if I was ho hum about a dish while eating it, the flavors linger around for a long time afterwards in the most wonderful way possible. I do think, though, that if you loved the gnocchi at Palena, this will not disappoint.

Goose Egg Ravioli - Holy crap this was good. The ravioli were amazing, and the pork belly was insane. If I had any criticism, it would be that the pork belly was so tender it bordered on being spongy, but this dish has been the highlight of my trips so far.

Roasted Chicken - After a perfect, amazing rendition of the roasted chicken during restaurant week, I came back and ordered it again. While it was still a delicious, flavorful, juicy chicken, it was probably the driest I've ever had from Chef Ruta. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't dry, but it didn't quite have the same moistness, succulence, and tenderness I've gotten used to. It was still just as flavorful and the skin was still perfection, but I wasn't sure any more about shelling out $28 for it. I've also noticed that I hear a lot of conflicting things about the brining: I've heard at least 3 days to brine, and I've had servers at Grill room tell me that the chicken is brined for at least 1 day, and this last time I was told at least 12 hours. In my experience with brining, 12 hours (or even a day) is not nearly long enough for a 3 lb bird to reach the proper level of salinity by normal techniques, but I have no idea if what they're saying is accurate.

Angus Beef Oxtails Vaccinara - It took me a little while to figure out how to get the meat off the oxtails gracefully. Once again, on my first bite I was very so so about this dish, but as I kept eating it kept getting better and better until it I was really loving it by then end. My first impressions were that the beef was cooked too far, a bit bland, and the tomatoes weren't incorporated very well into the stew. Wrong on all counts, this was a wonderful dish. The asparagus (white, in this dish) was, again, perfectly cooked and the egg added a great thickness and flavor. I wasn't sure about the pine nuts, though.

Just Say 'Ah' - I'm not a big dessert person, but I enjoyed this. The fennel sorbet was lovely, and the dish had a very earthy quality I loved.

Baci Sbagliati - I enjoyed this one as well, the mousse was velvety and delicious. I was sad I had finished my coffee before it came out, they would have been lovely together.

Parting trio - Chef Aggie sends out a trio of desserts to end the meal, a wonderful little macaroon, some of the most delicious caramel I've had the pleasure of eating, and... well, I don't know what it technically is because I'm a culinary idiot, but some sort of fruity, rich, delicious, red block of gel.

All in all, I've left happy but not euphoric from my meals at the Grill Room. For the price tag that accompanies the meals, that's not a good thing. While everything's been good, I've found it moving farther and farther away from the level of what Chef Ruta was putting out at Palena. Inconsistency in the cooking and service are probably to blame, but it's unfortunately making me more and more hesistant to go back.

Great review. I fully agree with your comments about the high prices. The food should be memorable at $200 per person. In my mind, all of Trabocchi's places are a better value.

Despite my brief description of dinner, our experiences were very similar, and you did a great job describing your meal. ( I thought the consomme was superb, and forgot about the annoying spoon! lol)