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Palena, 2007 James Beard Award Winner Frank Ruta Rocks Cleveland Park - Closed on Apr 26, 2014


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this broth sets off foie gras like nothing else, small pads of it melting on your tongue with an evanescent taste of cloves. it's also sort of an adventure. maybe i was dreaming this, but i think there was some cockscomb in it recently that was yielding in texture and intriguing though reticent in flavor. the broth, though substantial, is light enough to float the flavors of what's added to it. for a number of reasons i haven't been able to get to palena for a few weeks, which may be why i am having a difficult time driving the soup out of my mind.

Yeah, how did I forget to mention the foie gras!

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Anyone know if the new extension/wing is open yet? When I was in a few weeks ago, they said they were hoping to open right about now. I also heard that the plan was to keep the two parts of the restaurant (cafe and formal back room) more separate -with an expanded cafe menu which would no longer include ordering a la carte from the main restaurant. Anyone actualy been lately who can dish more?

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Had dinner at Palena this evening and what an experience it was! When we arrived at the door we were greeted by 3 Secret Service agents who checked our bags and wanded us. They explained that a 'dignitary' was dining inside. I'm thinking, maybe a cabinet secretary. (Ho hum). Spent about 20 minutes at the bar before our table was ready (we arrived early). Enjoyed an excellent gin martini. As we were being escorted to our table in the dining room I noticed Secret Service agents at the back of the room. After we were seated, I looked up and right in front of me I saw... Michelle Obama. Yes, the First Lady was dining not 12 feet from our table. She was with two other women who I did not recognize. Glad to know that the President and First Lady are still getting good advice about where to dine out in DC! Let's see, the President is in Portugal at the NATO meeting...yeah, I think the First Lady had the better dinner tonight!

Oh, the food? You want to know about the food? I didn't take notes and I wasn't focused on writing a review, so I can only repeat what everyone else has written -- the food was exceptionally good. We all had the Autumn Consomme and the Chestnut Soup --both were divine. (See others' posts above for details about these dishes.) I was less enchanted with my entree which was rockfish and shrimp -- shrimp was excellent, rockfish was tasteless. Desserts were all uniformly excellent. We all agreed this was one of the finest meals we've had in quite some time.

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Anyone know if the new extension/wing is open yet? When I was in a few weeks ago, they said they were hoping to open right about now. I also heard that the plan was to keep the two parts of the restaurant (cafe and formal back room) more separate -with an expanded cafe menu which would no longer include ordering a la carte from the main restaurant. Anyone actualy been lately who can dish more?

not as of last weekend, but the wood-fired oven is being used and the front and back have been separarted menu-wise. and there's a new pastry chef. the desserts have shrunk in size and are now almost precious. change is definitely in the air.

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Anyone know if the new extension/wing is open yet? When I was in a few weeks ago, they said they were hoping to open right about now. I also heard that the plan was to keep the two parts of the restaurant (cafe and formal back room) more separate -with an expanded cafe menu which would no longer include ordering a la carte from the main restaurant. Anyone actualy been lately who can dish more?

It may be open tonight. I was there on Monday and overheard the hostess say that they were aiming to open it this week, hopefully before Thanksgiving.

As for my meal that night -- the burger wasn't up to its usual standard. I ordered medium rare, and it came out closer to medium (almost medium-well). The bun also seemed more bready than usual, which detracted from the flavor of the beef a bit. On the other hand, the porchetta was excellent. Stuffed with herbs and served with creamy white beans, a perfectly poached egg, and greens. I was glad to have some bread to sop up the leftover sauce.

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I took my gf to Palena last night to celebrate her birthday. It was my both of our first visits (I had previously eaten in the cafe) and I have to say, this was probably the best meal I've had in DC (I have yet to dine at Komi or some of the other places that routinely are mentioned as the best restaurants in the city...but if they're better than I guess I'd better start saving...) and up there in the "best meals I've had period" discussion.

We each had the 5 course tasting menu and every course from start to finish was knee knockingly good. I won't go course by course simply b/c I don't know if I can do them justice and I didn't take a picture of the menu or anything, but the highlights were the chestnut soup with scallop and the shoat with apple jus. Also worth mentioning were the cocktails we started the meal off with. She had their fall sparkler (pumpkin juice, sparking wine) and I their Manhatten. My Manhatten was perfect in every way (I could eat a bucket of their soaked cherries) and I was left to assume the fall sparkler was good as well as it disappeared before I had a chance to request a sip.

I found the service to be excellent, although the staff apologized numerous times that they were "just getting their legs with the new setup"...kudos to them b/c if this is them in an adjustment stage, I can't imagine what service is like once they hit their stride.

This back room experience will probably remain reserved for special occasions (as much as I wish I was flush enough to drop 300+ on a regular weeknight or weekend), however as someone who lives a block away I look forward to returning and spending time in the expanded cafe.

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So, my wife and I have this tradition that we go out for dinner on Christmas Eve. It started maybe a dozen years or so ago and we figured most places were closed. Over the years, I remember trying to see if Palena was ever open that night and the time or two that I actually called, I was out of luck. Well, not this past Christmas Eve. Hee-hee!

So, while much focus on all things Palena have been focused on the new and improved Cafe, I thought it would be worth an update for everyone about the back dining room, which has always been my favorite place to dine in Palena. Were that I were only rich enough to dine there more frequently (or live in the neighborhood). But we are regular enough over the past 9 or so years that we're recognized and we usually get our favorite table. They have re-done the upholstery in the back which is fresh and comfortable. Some people may not have liked the prior bankets (sp?) with the loose sideways pillowy rolls (we liked them), so this might be good news for you if you did not like them.

In the back of the room, where the lovely statue still is, is now unfortunately hidden from view from most of the room as there is a new pass through way for the staff to get to the new kitchen. Kelly advised that they do plan to relocate her to a more proper spot sooner than later. The art is all still there and there appears to be a new statue on the center serving table (pretty cool). It also looks fresher and lighter -- perhaps it's a few shades lighter with perhaps new paint. Not sure.

The staff seems more refreshed and relaxed as well, particularly Kelly. What is also of note is that it is great to see so many familiar faces on the waitstaff over the last few years. Consistency is good on any staff and it goes a long way to trying to up your game if that is what you are trying to do -- and I think that is what is the goal here. For example, they have a sommelier, I think his name is Sean (sorry if I got your name wrong!), who, in chatting with him, came from Komi. And if you look at the wine list, it looks like they've started to up their game on that front, which is great to see. Hell, I might even order something off their list one of these days (instead of BYOWing something from the cellar).

And the food.....

While I was one one hand salivating over the 5 courses plus dessert proposed dinner, I was torn in a way that I wanted to go for the three courses thing where you got to choose what you got. One of the great things about the old menu was the ability to pick and choose from so many courses to get 4 and dessert. My wife and I could pick 8 out of 12-14 courses to cover much of the menu on any given outing. So, despite the allure of the proposed menu, we opted to choose....

Perhaps it was the night, the holiday, the wine, the new or just forgetting to get a copy of the evening's menu, but I can't remember all of the details. Nor did we take pictures that evening. But I had one of Frank's broths (godlike), some mushroom raviolis (holy freaking gosh), squab, and sampled some of my wife's dishes (I think an amazing seafood dish that looked like a coral reef involving curried cauliflower, a cauliflower bavaroise and lobster!), a spiach veloute with super sweet scallops, and a sea bass dish that made me swoon. And also tried a dish with octopus and a hearty risotto that was reddish brown and packed with flavor (red wine, lardons maybe, marrow and more). And the desserts are at an entirely new level...the really memorable one was with caramel and chocolate ice creams and crisped farro that really reminded me of kicked up sugar smacks.

Service was great, never annoying, never intrusive, always attentive enough, never rushed and just plain good and wonderful. Palena, you and your peeps are my second home and family. As always, I cannot wait to go back.

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I went to Palena last Friday for the first time. We sat in the dining room and all ordered the five course meal. One member was allergic to shellfish and ordered two from the four course side to supplement. This was lucky as the squab live mousse was the highlight of the meal. The mousse was outstanding. The other highlights were the excellent homemade pumpernickel bread. There was a course with veal heart and veal meatballs (they were very heavy with white pepper) which was excellent. The dessert was a mini-soufflé and was delicious and amazingly rich. The calamari and shrimp salad was light and nice. The small calamari were cooked perfectly, it must have been seconds. The lobster course was very nice as well, but my tail had not been cleaned and the intestinal vein was removed by yours truly.

The lowlights included an over-cooked risotto that was so salty it was not edible to two people at the table and it was supposed to have bone marrow in it, but it was nominal and difficult to find. There was a pici which was very nice, but the rabbit was difficult to find and again it was heavily salted. The service was not very impressive. Though they were technically proficient there was no passion or interest or warmth. This is fine I am sure with some people, but it felt to me like they were just grinding it out. The last thing I would say on the negative was they seated us twenty minutes late (which is no big deal on a Friday night, even with a reservation) but then it took another twenty minutes to get our first of two amuse bouches.

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Last night was our first time dining at Palena , and while it was good, it was not, imo, earth-shattering.

interestingly enough, the highlight of the meal for both of us were our first courses; opting for the 3 course menus, my wife's soup was delicious, as was my squab liver "parfait," which was light as air and disappeared just as quickly.

But both of our second and third courses were, shall we say, heavy on the salt. Similar to sekelmaan's experience right above, evidently.

It's unfortunate, because the food was proficiently prepared; that is, the pasta was cooked right, my sturgeon was cooked perfectly, the venison loin was great...but then, that heavy final hit with the salt - what's up with that?

I know there's a lot of love on this board for Palena and its chef. And of course for Palena Cafe (which might have been a better choice last night since there appeared to be no wait for a seat). I just wonder if with all that's going on at Palena, the chef might take a better look at the final dishes emeging from his kitchen.

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I was back in DC for business recently, and decided to check out the "new" back room at Palena with a friend. We opted for the taste of the season option, which seems to be the way to go. I don't really understand the recent posts that are....shall I say 'complaining' about the front vs back room menu policies and out of reach salt shakers. The $80 price tag for 4+ courses (including some with "luxury" items like oysters, truffles, foie gras) is reasonable even by DC standards, and is actually less than what I've paid ordering al carte at restuarants that aren't even close to being on the same level as Palena. I noticed that the 3-course menu is even more reasonable - only $69 - I would even say that it is a steal! And totally worth it for the quality. I think that having a second kitchen benefits those who are eating in the dining room. The people who are cooking are able to focus solely on the back room guests without compromising for the hamburger & chicken crowds.

Now, on to the food...

We had two hors d’oeuvres: horseradish bavarois with smoked steelhead trout roe first and a fried kale ravioli. Next up was the Squab liver parfait with a salad of faro, pickled cranberries, slices of roasted squab breast and toasted brioche - which is just as delicious as everyone has said. Though, I do wish that it was served with more bread! Then we had celeriac soup with pumpernickel croutons, marcona almonds and roasted foie gras along with the fluke crudo with lime and black truffle.

Second course was was cocoa pici for me, and my friend had the foie gras boudin - which was very good, but a little bit rich for my tastes. I didn't find the pasta dish to be oversalted by any means, but maybe that is just me.

For mains, I had the roasted hake with Sardinian pasta, broccoli and pomodorini. My friend had the chicken with salsify and truffle sauce. My Hake was easily one of the best seafood dishes that I have had in a while, and was my favorite dish of the evening

We ended with the chocolate torte, and the caramel/chocolate parfait. Then came the petit fours, at which point I wanted to explode, so I may have shoved them in my purse (nothing but class over here).

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horseradish bavarois with smoked steelhead trout roe first and a fried kale ravioli...Squab liver parfait with a salad of faro, pickled cranberries, slices of roasted squab breast and toasted brioche...celeriac soup with pumpernickel croutons, marcona almonds and roasted foie gras along with the fluke crudo with lime and black truffle.

Uh...can someone pass me a tissue, please? Or two?

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Then came the petit fours, at which point I wanted to explode, so I may have shoved them in my purse (nothing but class over here).

I couldn't eat even half the petit fours at the French Laundry, but really wanted to try each as they were incredible. I asked them if it was tacky to ask them to put them in a little box for me, they were so nice about it, and those were a great snack on the plane the next day! Don't worry you're still classy. There are some things so good in life they shouldn't be wasted.

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Am I the only one indulging in their all artichoke menu this weekend?

Yes, but I had their artichoke salad a few weeks ago and it was ridiculously, fantastically good.

I feel bad because I wanted to do a write-up but I'm lost without a current menu for reference. I can tell you the general outline but I feel it doesn't do it justice, and that stinks, because it was honestly one of the best meals I've ever had in this country, bar none.

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Dear Palena fans,

One of my best servers, Dave K., will be leaving A+B after next week to begin serving at Palena. I wish him nothing but the best and just think he's going to do great there. He has a sincere passion for food and overall restaurant knowledge that is well above the norm in this industry.

When you dine at Palena, ask for Dave's section--you will not be disappointed in his service level or his food knowledge...and no, I'm not biased because he has a GREAT first name. B) He just does his job very well. Truly.

-Dave

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Artichoke Jewel Box

Artichokes and their liquor with baby leeks, spring herbs and leaves, Alaskan king crab, and spring onion coulis

This was served room temp/cool, and really allowed you explore the tastes together as intended. Great start.

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Artichoke Veloute

Sheep's milk ricotta canederli (dumpling), garnished with sunchokes and roasted hazelnuts

I am a sucker for anything involving liquid goodness from Frank, and this was no exception. Often, the accoutrements or accompaniments can steal the show from the main star of a given dish and the disks of sunchokes included herein came close to doing so. Great dish.

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Slow Cooked Sitka Sound Alaska Wild King Salmon

Soft spinach crust, wood roasted artichokes, oven dried tomato, lemon confit (this is right up there with one of my favoirte Palena courses ever!)

There are no words to describe this dish. This is one of those dishes I would want included on my 118-course feast right before they electrocute me.

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Artichoke Risotto

with Brad's aged goat cheese and crispy fried artichokes on top

I need to learn to make better risotto -- I seem to make mine too stiff. This was full of cheese, oniony-goodness and of course artichokes. I could have eaten a pan full of this.

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Crepinette of Artichoke

Mushroom and proscuitto duxelle sutffed artichoke heart with roasted Pipe Dreams shoat loin

Fun course...the crepinette was filled with spices as well that made me think middle eastern almost. Delicious.

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Manjari Dark Chocolate Souffle Tart

with buttermilk ice cream, rhubarb, and cocoa nib tuille

mmmmmmmmmmmm

Wine pairings by the ever-witty-and-happy-to-banter-with-Sean were opted for (a rarity for me) and was worth it. Here's the list--

1) Vietti Roero Arneis 2009 (bright, floral and nice acidity)

2) Domaine Fougeray de Beauclair Marsanny Blanc 2009 (delicious, with an almost cognac-y nose to it)

3) Foradori Dolomiti Bianco 'Myrto' 2009 - really outstanding, nicely floral, good minerality, good acid, really in shockingly good balance - my White WOTN

4) La Bastide Saint Vincent Gigondas 2007 - young, brawny, but so utterly good -- one of my favorite pairings of the night since the cheese used in the risotto evinced a certain saltiness and oniony good my red WOTN

5) Domaine Billard Auxey-Durresses 2009 - a very young Burgundy that paired well, but was overshadowed by the Gigondas from the previous course, still lovely

6) Mazzi Recioto della Valpolicella 'Le Calcarole' 2007 - nice and chocolaty notes paired really well with the dessert. Delicious.

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So, inspired by Pool Boy's photography and a vegetable-centered tasting menu, we went for the artichokes tonight.

It was the exact same run featured in PB's photos and I'm hard pressed to disagree or even add anything to what was posted except:

One of two amuse bouches was a mini (maybe 1.5 inches square) artichoke fontina toasted sandwich inspired by the longstanding sandwich on the lunch menu.

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One of two amuse bouches was a mini (maybe 1.5 inches square) artichoke fontina toasted sandwich inspired by the longstanding sandwich on the lunch menu.

Oh I loved that little 'sandwich'. There were one or two more amuses, but that was the best. I think frank needs to do a tiny meatball as an amuse one of these days. I think I would swoon.

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Went again, tried the asparagus menu and some more....

Salad of Path Valley Purple Asparagus With Maine peekytoe crab, hazelnuts and tarragon

-This was a nice contrast of textures.

White Asparagus Roasted with anchovy With toasted brioche and a coddled organic pheasant egg

- This was really very good, but more about everything else and not so much the asparagus.

Slow Cooked Sitka Sound Alaska Wild King Salmon Soft asparagus crust, crispy fried pencil asparagus tips

-This was just brilliant. The 'crust' was the piece de resistance atop some of the most expertly prepared fish I have ever had.

Asparagus Cannelloni With prosciutto and goat cheese béchamel

- Great dish, where the bechamel brought it all together. Playful and fun.

I forget the exact details of the dish but it involved lamb and asparagus and tiny onions.

-Pretty fresking perfect, and paired well with the 97 Dehlinger Syrah we brought from home.

I am sad to say I cannot remember the details of dessert (I tried 4, urp). They were all good. Too much vino at this point, methinks.

I was also lucky enough to try a few more dishes that evening--

Foie Gras, Morel Mushroom and Pistachio Terrine With roasted Beaver Creek quail in a composed salad with shaved Northern Neck asparagus, and Sardinian cous cous

-Frank makes probably some of the best terrines anywhere. If you ever get a chance to try one, do, you will not be sorry.

Soft Shell Crab Spring garlic mousseline, asparagus, shaved radishes and lemon

--Otherworldly. The crust involved rice flour and made it all so light and crispy. A true triumph.

Goose Egg Ravioli With pea shoots and morel mushrooms

-Frank is the Ravioli King. Or stuffed pasta king. Lordy.

Nova Scotia Halibut Braised with Rhode Island ruby red shrimp fava beans and oyster mushrooms

-No words to describe this. Go and order it.

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I really want to write about my dinner last night, but because the online menu isn't exactly the same as what I ate, I can't do it in precise detail. I can say these things:

  • The chicken liver parfait with ruby port was divine, with not enough brioche to finish -- but that's ok because if I'd eaten the whole thing, I'd have been full.
  • The sweet corn ravioli with Maryland crab -- really, that was crab, and not lobster? Holy moly was this good. I've even eaten this (or the last year's variation on it) before, and I couldn't pass it up. wow.
  • Lamb with some kind of amazing gastrique or reduction and Path Valley beans and other veg ... Perhaps the most succulent, perfectly-cooked lamb I've eaten in DC.
  • Saffron ice cream. I don't have a sweet tooth, and this made me want a whole other serving.

Service was delightful, unobtrusive even despite our three-top being next to the service station. Also, a fruit fly enjoyed the wine brought by my dining companions as much as we did! Ha.

I just ate the homemade caramel that was part of the mignardises ... um, can I go back and just get these?!

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Does anyone know why the back dining room is closed until the end of the month? (And why they have stopped updating their website?)

They closed it to host a popup for Mike Isabella's newest concept. It's going to be Mike's playful take on the New York hot dog/fruit beverage joint, tentatively named papayatto.

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They closed it to host a popup for Mike Isabella's newest concept. It's going to be Mike's playful take on the New York hot dog/fruit beverage joint, tentatively named papayatto.

[Funny, but as sure as the sun will rise, people are going to take you seriously here.]

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Any recent reports? I have never been to Palena, just the cafe, and am considering it for a birthday dinner later this month. Is the dining room really stuffy, or will we feel relaxed and settled in? What's the best way to do the menu? A la carte? Coursed?

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Any recent reports? I have never been to Palena, just the cafe, and am considering it for a birthday dinner later this month. Is the dining room really stuffy, or will we feel relaxed and settled in? What's the best way to do the menu? A la carte? Coursed?

service is not stuffy, about the same as the cafe, with maybe a bit closer attention to the table. the real difference is the food, and both menus work. we decide based on what's listed on each.

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I miss the days when you could order off of either (or both) menus in the Cafe. (And when the fry plate didn't always include some component that once swam). We used to go to Palena all the time and now it's a pretty rare occurrence because the cafe menu seems so limited and that backroom never appealed to us. The crowd ti seemed to attract always looked almost comatosely sedate. Maybe they were all quietly worshipping the food, but it looked like a bunch of suits out on business dinners and taking comfort where they could find it. Has it gotten more lively?

And, totally OT, but is that an epee you're sporting Shrimp -- or has too much Olympics caused me to hallucinate?

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I don't post about Palena that often though we go fairly regularly; most always to the Cafe though a couple of times each year to the dining room. As a long-time fan dating back almost to the 90s, I worried some when the expansion happened that things might change for the worse. As best I can tell, those fears were unfounded. The restaurant is formal and serious. Special occasion stuff. Outstanding fare. The cafe is fun, noisier, more casual but also with outstanding fare.

Last week we went for dinner (Cafe) with a couple of friends and loved the old and new on the menu.

Old was what I ordered: the Roast Chicken. I was just in the mood for it and dang if that isn't the same fantastic, 'how the hell does he do it' chicken that it was more than a decade ago. Always with different sides or pickles. Perfect.

At our table, we also ordered New or, at least new(er): an "Organic Chicken LIver Parfait." This isn't the same species as the excellent chicken liver with red onion recently enjoyed at DGS Deli but it was fantastic. Served "with pickled cranberries, onion jam, and our own cocoa scented lomo." Wow.

Two at our table ordered a newer "Hog Chop." Served with "Wilbur's pickled cabbage and sweet potatoes," it was the latest in the long line of perfect examples of how Chef Ruta will do a familiar dish but just do it better than anyone else. This pork was simply more flavorful, more succulent and richer than any I've had at the mushrooming number of pork-centric spots across the country. Even love the name: Hog Chop. As Seinfeld once said, "it's fun to say. I could say it all day." hog chop. hog chop. Even more fun to eat. Get this if you're their and it's still on the menu. Also, ask about its provenance, which I neglected to do.

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We've been maybe 3-4 times between summer and fall this year. I still love it - cafe or dining room. If I go to the cafe, I actually prefer the 'old' cafe section to the new.

The *only* thing I miss is ordering from the entire dining room menu (which you could do prior to the expansion). The proposed meal is always great, and the a la carte progression choices are equally great. I just wish I could mix and match without thought like I could before. Oh and I wish the consomme (and other brothy concoctions) was still in a larger portion like it used to be. I would dive in to a vat of that if I could. But I so love it here for the food and the staff and state of tranquility and zen that I achieve when dining here.

Any idea if the nice statue in the back of the dining room will ever be made visible to the diners again? :)

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We've been maybe 3-4 times between summer and fall this year. I still love it - cafe or dining room. If I go to the cafe, I actually prefer the 'old' cafe section to the new.

The *only* thing I miss is ordering from the entire dining room menu (which you could do prior to the expansion). The proposed meal is always great, and the a la carte progression choices are equally great. I just wish I could mix and match without thought like I could before. Oh and I wish the consomme (and other brothy concoctions) was still in a larger portion like it used to be. I would dive in to a vat of that if I could. But I so love it here for the food and the staff and state of tranquility and zen that I achieve when dining here.

Any idea if the nice statue in the back of the dining room will ever be made visible to the diners again? :)

During the week, they offer 2 or 3 dishes from the back room menu up front; the consomme is consistently one of these.

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Really? I have had it 4 times since it went back on the menu this Fall - each time every bit as majestic as always. To me, $17 is a bargain for this heavenly soup - I prefer it to any soup I have had at any Michelin starred restaurant.

Maybe it was an off night, when there was also a problem with the fritto misto. It was greasy and limp. But the ingredients in the soup -- served at room temperature -- were not quite the same and it was lacking the precision it used to have. In this case, at least, dining in my memories of Palena was more heavenly.

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[FWIW, I believe both of you are correct. There has definitely been an upward trend in prices at Palena over the years (didn't the chicken and cheeseburger used to be *nine dollars* when they debuted?)] Mark, I almost saw you at Palena last night, just like I almost saw Laura at Haandi; instead I saw Beth Cover at BlackSalt. :)

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I've had the consomme or its various sisters and brothers in the dining room several times this year, and it is as stunning as ever, even in its smaller portion. Can't speak to what makes it out to the cafe as I have not ordered it there though.

And, while there's been an upward trend in Palena's prices over the last few years, it is still the best money I spend on my dining out budget, hands down. Every place I ever go seems to get compared back to my gold standard that is Palena.

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As a gut check, I returned last night. Consomme was as stunning as always. I suppose even Michael Jordan turned the ball over now and then, but all was brilliant in Palena land last evening

I returned on a recernt night, not as a gut check, but because my financial prospects seem to have brightened significantly this week and we were in a tentatively celebratory mood. All around, without question I would say that this is our overall favorite local restaurant -- warts and all, and the imperfections have been popping up more often these days.

The autumn consomme ($18) was as glorious as it has ever been. The clear amber broth draws you in with an invitation to delve beneath the surface into a small cosmos of seasonal ingredients that each play their individual roles to perfection in a chorus of shifting flavors and textures. A few rich parings of foie gras take the lead and could not taste better as they are washed by a slightly sour broth, which carries a hint of cloves and has always struck me as being just as mysterious as the chicken brine that over the years has kept people guessing about exactly how the kitchen accomplishes some of the seemingly simple things it does so well. The liver has little substance; its flavor melts on the tongue. A raviolini here and there is almost as soft while offering something to chew on; the filling provides a small burst of what feels like crumbling pebbles of whipped poultry. A few leaves of dark spinach obsure the bottom of the bowl, but are unwilted, offering surprising substance. And there are dabs of many other things: a floret of cauliflower, miniature turnip, bits of matsutake that for me carry woodlands and cedar into the mix, carrots. They all work together, nothing is overbearing or bold, and individual attention has been paid to each morsel. This soup stirs the imagination. It is best approached slowly, reverently, to appreciate its plaintive side with the knowledge that the reverie will be over soon enough. It ends with a flash of heat from the grounds of pepper that have gathered at the bottom.

A roasted pork chop ($28) shaggy with a shreddded cabbage topping and served with sweet potatoes and a tumbleweed of lettuce is a thick, boneless pillow of pig. The temperature was not exactly nailed, with a few spots quite rare and the closest I have ever come to hog tartare. But even there it was delicious, just a little harder to cut through.

The desserts at Palena have never let me down -- not once. These days they are small-scaled and magical. I was hesitant to order a maple panna cotta ($10) with a dollop of lemon yogurt because I am always waiting for anything here that has cake. In this instance, there were at least crumbles of unadvertised chocolate cookie almost hiding on the plate. The pudding serves as a floor, not unlike some of the structures I have encountered up the street at Ripple. Befitting one of the best panna cottas I have ever eaten in my life, it is bejeweled with sweet and sour cranberry beads. There are also some nuts.

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I'm with you Justin - forget food porn - this is food prose porn which brilliantly captures the stunning sensuality of this dish.

The autumn consomme ($18) was as glorious as it has ever been. The clear amber broth draws you in with an invitation to delve beneath the surface into a small cosmos of seasonal ingredients that each play their individual roles to perfection in a chorus of shifting flavors and textures. A few rich parings of foie gras take the lead and could not taste better as they are washed by a slightly sour broth, which carries a hint of cloves and has always struck me as being just as mysterious as the chicken brine that over the years has kept people guessing about exactly how the kitchen accomplishes some of the seemingly simple things it does so well. The liver has little substance; its flavor melts on the tongue. A raviolini here and there is almost as soft while offering something to chew on; the filling provides a small burst of what feels like crumbling pebbles of whipped poultry. A few leaves of dark spinach obsure the bottom of the bowl, but are unwilted, offering surprising substance. And there are dabs of many other things: a floret of cauliflower, miniature turnip, bits of matsutake that for me carry woodlands and cedar into the mix, carrots. They all work together, nothing is overbearing or bold, and individual attention has been paid to each morsel. This soup stirs the imagination. It is best approached slowly, reverently, to appreciate its plaintive side with the knowledge that the reverie will be over soon enough. It ends with a flash of heat from the grounds of pepper that have gathered at the bottom.

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