The Shaw Bijou - Chef Kwame Onwuachi and GM Greg Vakiner's $95 Seven-Course Menu in Shaw - Closed

[CapitalGourmand]

Evaluating my meal at The Shaw Bijou within the first week and a half of its opening is a lot like being assigned to jury duty for a high profile murder case: with all the controversy surrounding a restaurant before it even served its first meal, I wondered if I could be objective. To assist me in my evaluation, I was joined by three friends: Katrina, Donna, and Mike.

 

The name of the restaurant, according to Kwame, is in honor of his mother, Jewel (Bijou being French for "jewel"). But Kwame has also mentioned a second meaning. He envisions this restaurant as being the jewel of DC's burgeoning Shaw district. That's quite ambitious for a first time chef, especially in a neighborhood of such great restaurants. It was an aspiration that preceded Kwame's own involvement in the restaurant. It was clear that before he was brought on board, owner Kelly Gorsuch intended for this to become one of DC's premier fine dining destinations. Since they were very clear about their purpose from the beginning, I can understand why they were taken aback by the criticism of their pricing. Speaking anecdotally, most of those who had any knowledge of this project prior to Kwame's Top Chef appearance were DC's hardcore foodies. It was already questionable that an unknown would attempt to open an ambitious tasting menu only venue. But now with national exposure the stakes were even higher. How would it measure up?

 

To begin, it's some of the best service I've experienced at any restaurant in DC. They were always thinking one step ahead. Two examples:

 

1. When Donna arrived, she pulled out her phone only to realize just how little power was left. She told us that she didn't have time to charge her phone because she had running errands for most of the day. About 5 minutes later, one of the bartenders appears with a portable phone charger with a USB cord and told her she could keep it at the table until her phone was fully charged. Donna wasn't even talking to them, and didn't even request it. But it was a welcome gesture on their part.

 

2. At the end of the meal, the captain asked us if we wanted any coffee or tea. They didn't have anything decaffeinated, so we all declined. Katrina wanted hot chocolate, but it wasn't on the menu. As we're waiting for the petit fours to arrive, the captain returns with a tray of hot chocolate and marshmallows. Not just for Katrina, but for all four of us. Katrina and I have been friends for several years and I've experienced this moment with her several time. The response is usually a smile and an apology. The captain decided have a conversation with the pastry chef, and she went to work. To see the staff put in a little extra effort was appreciated.

 

Both of these may seem like rather trivial events. But that is what made the response of the service staff all the more impressive. They could have easily dismissed our issues as minor. But by making our concerns their concerns and going the extra mile, they elevated our dining experience. It was like something out of the Danny Meyer textbook.

 

 

 

More than any other meal I've had, the presence of the chef is felt at every single moment, no matter how trivial. This is manifest through the constant "Kwame narrative" that accompanies each dish. Our first introduction to his biography happened while waiting for our table to be prepared. Zack, our excellent bartender, was ready with an anecdote behind "steak and eggs", it's creation during Kwame's time at Per Se, and how it was eventually designated dish of the day, no small accomplishment at a Thomas Keller restaurant. And so it would continue throughout the evening, with the story of Kwame's favorite birthday meal (Fisherman's  Pie), an R&D trip in India (Butter Garlic Crab), and his love of New York street food (Hallal Cart). I'm reminded of Pete Wells criticism of EMP when they inaugurated the "New York" tasting menu. Had Kwame and company reserved this ongoing narrative for one or two dishes, it would have given an otherwise standard degustation some depth. But over 14 courses, it starts to loose its power. To be fair, my friends really enjoyed these little memoirs and felt that they gave some structure to the meal. I, on the other had, was neutral. It didn't really add anything to my experience, but it didn't detract from it, either.

 

 

 

 

Continued >>>>>>>

[CapitalGourmand]

I was impressed with how the kitchen tour was incorporated not only into the structure of the meal, but the design of the restaurant. I've had some excellent kitchen tours (EMP) and some awful (Grace), and this ranks with the best. The first visit to the kitchen follows the pre-dinner drink  at the upstairs bar. We were offered an amuse platter inspired by the hallal carts of New York. We were free to take as many photos as we liked. Kwame stood at the end of the pass with a smile on his face, ready to shake hands and answer questions. Once at the table, we were given the option of either a lamb's head or squab for our main. The lamb's head sounded like the more adventurous of the two, so it was a unanimous decision. When the penultimate moment for this course arrived, we were escorted again to the kitchen where Kwame waited next to a roasting pan with the carcass of a lamb's head, and shots made with jalapeno pepper juice that he would toast with us. This kind of interaction with the chef is rare at any restaurant, so it was welcome.

The ultimate question to be answered is of value. At $185 (sans tax and gratuity), Kwame and his business partners are taking a gamble. Only time will tell if it was successful. The first notices have not been completely negative, but we have yet to see a ringing endorsement. And for a restaurant with this asking price, the advocacy of local critics is crucial to its long term prospects. As a whole, I thought it was a respectable if not outstanding meal. With the exception of the excellent squash volute, courses ranged from average to very good. And the foie/pineapple course was a miss for me. I would have to agree with franch here. At this price point, I would expect that nearly every course is special. But this is just my opinion, of course. My friends loved it. Mike even when so far as to say he liked it more than Pineapple and Pearls. I like Mike, so I forgave him for his hyperbole.

If this were a diner's first experience with a tasting menu, I could understand if they walked away impressed. But if you've had this sort of experience before, you may not leave with the same response. And that could be a problem, as that's the core audience that Kwame wants to appeal to. These are the diners who are most likely to return. However, one meal here and one may feel as though they got the complete essence of Shaw Bijou without any need to come back.

I cannot help but wonder if we would be having a different conversation had Kwame and Kelly decided to take a more measured approach to their debut. A chef with this kind of talent should give himself the best opportunity to succeed. It is my belief that if they started with an a la carte format, we would be talking about DC's next great restaurant. They could have followed a model similar to another former Top Chef contestant, Nick Elmi. His restaurant, Laurel, opened with an a la carte menu and tasting menu option at a relatively affordable price. With time, they were able to convert to a tasting menu only venue because of their great success.

I sincerely want to see this restaurant succeed. And I plan to return sometime in the future. In the meanwhile, I hope that if this current format does not work out, they are willing to change course. I would hate to see a chef with Kwame's talent leave DC if the success he wants does not come.

 

[Cooter]

So, what was the lambs head like?  Other than cheek meat, what is there on the head?

[CapitalGourmand]

19 minutes ago, Cooter said:

So, what was the lambs head like?  Other than cheek meat, what is there on the head?

We really liked the lamb's head. My friend, Mike, asked for the eye while we were in the kitchen. Kwame said, "Sure", plucked it out with a knife and gave it to him. When we were served the Mojo course, Mike's plate had the second eye on it, which he shared with me (my other two friends weren't interested). I really liked it.

You're right, most of the meat we were served was from the cheek. It was the only time during the meal that Donna (or anyone, for that matter) had any criticism of the portion sizes.

[thistle]

Sounds lovely, but still outside my price point for dining out. It's great to read about this kind of food, but I'm happy that I can cook at home.

[DonRocks]

1 hour ago, thistle said:

Sounds lovely, but still outside my price point for dining out. It's great to read about this kind of food, but I'm happy that I can cook at home.

Sure, but CapitalGourmand's review is still very welcome - it has already been established that The Shaw Bijou is out of most people's price range, no matter what they serve. I really appreciate him having written the review here.

[DanielK]

1 hour ago, DonRocks said:

Sure, but CapitalGourmand's review is still very welcome - it has already been established that The Shaw Bijou is out of most people's price range, no matter what they serve. I really appreciate him having written the review here.

That's two fantastically detailed reviews of this restaurant in it's opening month. No other site can claim that.

[Lisa Fricano]

16 hours ago, Cooter said:

So, what was the lambs head like?  Other than cheek meat, what is there on the head?

A much favored portion when I travel overseas to Jordan and the celebrated Mansif is presented with sprigs of parsley shooting out of the mouth of the erstwhile lamb is the brain, with rambunctious cracking of the skull. And the tongue is prized as well. Were they not present in this Shaw Bijou head? 

[CapitalGourmand]

On ‎11‎/‎27‎/‎2016 at 8:18 AM, Lisa Fricano said:

A much favored portion when I travel overseas to Jordan and the celebrated Mansif is presented with sprigs of parsley shooting out of the mouth of the erstwhile lamb is the brain, with rambunctious cracking of the skull. And the tongue is prized as well. Were they not present in this Shaw Bijou head? 

Lisa, lamb's brain was not part of the meal. However, we were served small empanadas filled with lamb meat when we did the toast with Kwame. Those may have been filled with tongue.

[franch]

according to Kwame's instagram, the bar is now open to the public beginning at 5:30pm, and there will be a la carte bites available. i hope this becomes as great as the Eleven Madison Park bar did -- for when the full tasting menu price was unrealistic (and reservations not easy to come by), some great dinners could be had at the EMP bar.

[Gadarene]

How much are cocktails?

[franch]

@Gadarene, I haven't been back for cocktails yet.

DCist is reporting the addition of some more affordable options -- a la carte bar menu service, $115 New Year's Eve lunch, $150 New Year's Eve party:

"Shaw Bijou Rolls Out More Affordable Dining Options" by Travis Mitchell on dcist.com

[jca76]

Eater reports that cocktails are $14-17. 

"More on the Shaw Bijou's Bar, Plus Other Intel" by Missy Frederick on dc.eater.com

[reedm]

On 11/3/2016 at 10:01 AM, Simul Parikh said:

Haha... Really? Are you sure? You're not just making a joke are you? 

A little over a month later, there are only six yelp reviews. Perhaps the place simply doesn't measure up to the places you mentioned.

[Simul Parikh]

I just meant people with money clearly do go on Yelp. Nobody is going to this place, or nobody is reviewing it. I pick the first... 

 

[DaveO]

12 minutes ago, Simul Parikh said:

I just meant people with money clearly do go on Yelp. Nobody is going to this place, or nobody is reviewing it. I pick the first... 

Looking at 12/23, 12/24, 12/28 and one weekday in January there was room for 4 on all dates, mostly early or late dinners.  Weekends appeared booked.   In general I agree with Simul's comments above; yelp gets reviews from the most expensive restaurants across the land.  But realistically only something like 1 in 5-10 people leave reviews. 

All in all, somewhat spotty evidence for the public at this time; but the folks at Shaw Bijou know exactly what is going on.

[Simul Parikh]

Nasime in Old Town, a tiny Japanese place has 14 reviews. This place has 7.

There is no way a place with this sort of budget and overhead can exist for very long if no one is going. Even mediocre reviews would be good. But 7... Damn. 

[dracisk]

24 minutes ago, Simul Parikh said:

Nobody is going to this place, or nobody is reviewing it. I pick the first... 

I suspect the first as well. There's a large segment of the population that would be all over Yelp bragging to their friends that they went ... if they went. They'd either brag about their glorious experience or revel in shredding the place to pieces.

[TedE]

23 hours ago, franch said:

DCist is reporting the addition of some more affordable options -- a la carte bar menu service, $115 New Year's Eve lunch, $150 New Year's Eve party:

"Shaw Bijou Rolls Out More Affordable Dining Options" by Travis Mitchell on dcist.com

I think this is all the evidence you need that they are having issues filling seats for The Experience.  I figured they would need to adjust their service model or price point eventually once the novelty wore off, but that was very quick!

[Simul Parikh]

Does anyone know of a restaurant that started off at too high of a price point and recovered by going much lower? I think they are screwed.... 

[DonRocks]

38 minutes ago, Simul Parikh said:

Does anyone know of a restaurant that started off at too high of a price point and recovered by going much lower? I think they are screwed.... 

Rogue 24 tried. I quietly thought that business model was doomed to failure (mainly because of the economy), but I never said anything.

Thing is, we're eventually going to hit a recession, and what then?

2941 didn't go *much* lower, but they went somewhat lower, and they're still chugging right along, but they have some serious money behind them.

Even Restaurant Eve, which was "sneaky expensive," has finally put in some lower-priced items.

[Bart]

3 hours ago, Simul Parikh said:

Nasime in Old Town, a tiny Japanese place has 14 reviews. This place has 7.

There is no way a place with this sort of budget and overhead can exist for very long if no one is going. Even mediocre reviews would be good. But 7... Damn. 

Well, Metier which has been open since April only has 33 reviews.  

I'm not disagreeing with anything anyone has hypnotized, but just saying a lack of Yelp reviews doesn't necessarirly mean low quality or a bad experience  

[dracisk]

20 minutes ago, Bart said:

Metier which has been open since April only has 33 reviews.

Because of the Top Chef connection, I think Shaw Bijou got/gets a lot more buzz in the Yelp-focused world than Metier. Totally just hypothesizing here.

[weezy]

49 minutes ago, DonRocks said:

Rogue 24 tried. I quietly thought that business model was doomed to failure (mainly because of the economy), but I never said anything.

Thing is, we're eventually going to hit a recession, and what then?

2941 didn't go *much* lower, but they went somewhat lower, and they're still chugging right along, but they have some serious money behind them.

Even Restaurant Eve, which was "sneaky expensive," has finally put in some lower-priced items.

Don't forget how much of 2941's bottom line is buttressed by their wedding / event business.  It's a huge factor in their success.  

[Keithstg]

"The Shaw Bijou Punts on its Plan To Have a Members-Only Bar" by Laura Hayes on washingtoncitypaper.com

Well, that was fast.

Client of mine has requested dinner here in early-Jan. Will be interesting for sure.

[Rextopher]

Wonder what that portends for Chef Kwame & co. Has anyone tried dining at the Bijou's bar?

[Gadarene]

20 hours ago, Rextopher said:

Wonder what that portends for Chef Kwame & co. Has anyone tried dining at the Bijou's bar?

I saw Kwame doing a TV commercial for Patron tequila during this week's episode of Top Chef, so I'm pretty sure he'll be fine regardless.

[Ericandblueboy]

Oh my god, they axed the price!

"The Shaw Bijou Dramatically Slashes Price, Dials Back Concept" by Missy Frederick on dc.eater.com

[Rextopher]

1 hour ago, Ericandblueboy said:

Oh my god, they axed the price!

"The Shaw Bijou Dramatically Slashes Price, Dials Back Concept" by Missy Frederick on dc.eater.com

Enough of a price drop to bring me in, that's for sure. And doubtless many others.

[Jonathan]

1 hour ago, Ericandblueboy said:

Oh my god, they axed the price!

"The Shaw Bijou Dramatically Slashes Price, Dials Back Concept" by Missy Frederick on dc.eater.com

That was quick. Pretty shocking they couldn't see this coming prior to opening. But hey, at least they learned before the gas got shut off.

[DonRocks]

2 hours ago, Ericandblueboy said:

Oh my god, they axed the price!

2 hours ago, Rextopher said:

Enough of a price drop to bring me in, that's for sure. And doubtless many others.

1 hour ago, Jonathan said:

That was quick. Pretty shocking they couldn't see this coming prior to opening. But hey, at least they learned before the gas got shut off.

Folks, I have lived long enough, and have seen enough things in this world, where I don't think it's impossible that this price-drop was part of a larger business plan they had from day one.

I'm not saying it's necessarily the case, but do you see the enthusiasm up above? People are now *jacked* at paying $95 for a meal here, as if that was some sort of bargain night out.

This could have been (repeat: *could have been*) a backup plan all along (a fallback position if the hyper-expensive strategy failed), or, it could have been the master plan all along - *knowing* it would fail, waiting awhile, and then "giving" the customer a $185 meal at what is essentially half-price.

I'm not saying this was the strategy all along (I have no idea what their strategy was or is); I'm merely saying that it's not impossible. $95 is an expensive meal, and when you throw in drinks, tax, and gratuity? You're looking at three-hundred bucks a couple.

And if their average cover is a buck-twenty-five, and they have a full restaurant on a regular basis? They're going to make a fortune.

[Rextopher]

Alas, the words of the sober minded can be so incisive... nevertheless, a still-pricey $95 is comparable to several other (established, respected, time-tested) restaurants here that aim to provide the experience to which Chef Kwame seems to be aspiring even if this is part of a cynical "long con," which, as Don has said, may not at all be the case. But I think I may not be quite so eager beaver to be an early adopter of the new menu format with that in mind. 

[DonRocks]

32 minutes ago, Rextopher said:

Alas, the words of the sober minded can be so incisive... nevertheless, a still-pricey $95 is comparable to several other (established, respected, time-tested) restaurants here that aim to provide the experience to which Chef Kwame seems to be aspiring even if this is part of a cynical "long con," which, as Don has said, may not at all be the case. But I think I may not be quite so eager beaver to be an early adopter of the new menu format with that in mind. 

Seriously, don't read too much into my post - it's supported by absolutely nothing other than a restless mind and a healthy skepticism.

I think the bigger story (and I'm not singling anyone out here) is that we have no meaningful restaurant criticism in this town. People write about openings, closings, chef changes, a really tasty cheeseburger they had last weekend, but ... where's the critical analysis?

[franch]

speechless. i will write more when sober. 

[Jonathan]

i choose not to think people are quite as sinister and plotting as one would have to be to make this all a part of a long con. I truly believe they were dying on the vine and had to make desperate moves to stay afloat. 

It follows with eschewing the club idea(no, they did not have 1000 names on a waiting list); a more "affordable" lunch option for NYE; and offering a la carts at the bar. All moves made to get more butts in the seats when reservations aren't being booked.

[Simul Parikh]

Is this less courses than original? Man, feel bad for those that paid 2x.

[TSchaad]

On 11/4/2016 at 0:46 PM, TedE said:

Variety.  The "experience".  Seriously, and I can be a cynical bastard, but I'm more and more convinced that the trend in multi-course tasting menus has become less and less about the food on the plate and more about the "journey" or whatever the term du jour is.  From what I can gather the wandering dinner aspect of Shaw Bijou is unique to DC.  There you go.  If you won't bat an eye at a $300 for two for dinner at P&P, etc., what's $500?  $600?

Perhaps TedE was right. It was just that the buzz wasn't there in the initial (and subsequent) reviews to encourage people with the financial wherewithal to invest and then brag about this particular "journey".

TSchaad

[DaveO]

2 hours ago, Jonathan said:

i choose not to think people are quite as sinister and plotting as one would have to be to make this all a part of a long con. I truly believe they were dying on the vine and had to make desperate moves to stay afloat. 

It follows with eschewing the club idea(no, they did not have 1000 names on a waiting list); a more "affordable" lunch option for NYE; and offering a la carts at the bar. All moves made to get more butts in the seats when reservations aren't being booked.

I agree.  Though I woulldn't even characterize it as possibly sinister, plotting, or a "long con".  Most folks, in fact probably 99.9% of folks with a business plan wouldn't have a plan B that involved a 360 degree turn.  If the first idea and implementation doesn't work, you make changes.  Typically the sooner you can do so the better.  At least they garnered a lot of press.  Maybe this will work for them.  Whether this is a 20, 50, 100 or 180% change doesn't matter. Its a change.

The early reviews were generally positive about the quality of the food.  This might work.  We'll see.

[jpbloom]

To a large degree the success under the new approach may depend on how much the old approach turned people off.  I would have thought nothing of dropping $95 pp for a tasting menu from a chef whose style looked interesting if the early reviews suggested the quality was there, knowing the total tab after wine, tax and tip could be $400 plus.  I will not do so at Shaw Bijou, though, because the arrogance of original concept left such a sour taste (no pun intended).  There are plenty of places in town where I know that kind of money will get a great meal.

There is also the new administration to consider.  Those of us who have been here a while know the city, and particularly its dining scene, can change dramatically with a new administration and the people it attracts to town.  At this point nobody has any idea what changes may come our way.  

[Kibbee Nayee]

1 hour ago, jpbloom said:

There is also the new administration to consider.  Those of us who have been here a while know the city, and particularly its dining scene, can change dramatically with a new administration and the people it attracts to town.  At this point nobody has any idea what changes may come our way.  

OMG, I hope that doesn't mean ordering well-done steaks and eating hamburgers with forks and knives....

[Simul Parikh]

A taco bowl in every pot...

[pras]

The Washington Post chimes in.

[Bart]

On 12/29/2016 at 10:55 PM, DonRocks said:

I think the bigger story (and I'm not singling anyone out here) is that we have no meaningful restaurant criticism in this town. People write about openings, closings, chef changes, a really tasty cheeseburger they had last weekend, but ... where's the critical analysis?

I'm still not understanding the point you're making here, but does the above WaPo article give you what you were looking for?

And if anyone feels that the Post didn't tear Kwame and the team up as much as they deserved, read the comments............yikes.

[dracisk]

45 minutes ago, Bart said:

And if anyone feels that the Post didn't tear Kwame and the team up as much as they deserved, read the comments............yikes.

One recent comment:

Quote

"Humility creeps up on you when least expected"
If it was unexpected, then humility is still a ways away, and this is only the beginning. Maybe when it comes down to laying out the kids' menu, early bird specials, and twofer coupons, it'll sink in for real. Maybe not.

 

[Escoffier]

19 hours ago, DonRocks said:

I think the bigger story (and I'm not singling anyone out here) is that we have no meaningful restaurant criticism in this town. People write about openings, closings, chef changes, a really tasty cheeseburger they had last weekend, but ... where's the critical analysis?

I tend to agree with you, Don.  There seems to be more cheerleading (albeit sometimes lukewarm or tepid) than criticism.  I vaguely remember (dis-remember?) a review that said something along the lines of "Inn at Little Washington prices with Harold of Chinatown food".   That wasn't written by the WaPo resident food taster obviously. Unfortunately, I can't find that review now but I do know that people weren't exactly breaking down the door to get "tickets' to fill seats. 

[lovehockey]

9 hours ago, jpbloom said:

There is also the new administration to consider.  Those of us who have been here a while know the city, and particularly its dining scene, can change dramatically with a new administration and the people it attracts to town.  At this point nobody has any idea what changes may come our way.  

If nobody knows, why change right now? 

I bet it's more of a get-backsides-in-the-seats situation.  And I give them credit for realizing they needed to change things now.

[jpbloom]

39 minutes ago, lovehockey said:

If nobody knows, why change right now? 

I bet it's more of a get-backsides-in-the-seats situation.  And I give them credit for realizing they needed to change things now.

I agree with you 100%.  I was just commenting on the uncertainty of whether they will succeed with the new approach. 

[Lori Gardner]

My plan all along was to give Shaw Bijou some time to settle in before dining there.  Once I saw early reviews that were less than complimentary, I wasn't in a rush to spend the money.  This week's announcement of a price cut has me very enthused and I have plans to dine at Shaw Bijou very soon.  I know there are others like me who find $95 much more palatable compared to $185.  Assuming Kwame delivers on the food- and I am very hopeful that he will- my guess is that there is potential for Shaw Bijou to do well.  The initial price point wasn't sustainable based on the chef not having enough of a reputation to warrant it.  That combined with some early reviews that were less than glowing, and you have a need for the switcheroo.  I sincerely hope it works. I want Shaw Bijou to succeed.     

[DonRocks]

9 hours ago, Lori Gardner said:

My plan all along was to give Shaw Bijou some time to settle in before dining there.  Once I saw early reviews that were less than complimentary, I wasn't in a rush to spend the money.  This week's announcement of a price cut has me very enthused and I have plans to dine at Shaw Bijou very soon.  I know there are others like me who find $95 much more palatable compared to $185.  Assuming Kwame delivers on the food- and I am very hopeful that he will- my guess is that there is potential for Shaw Bijou to do well.  The initial price point wasn't sustainable based on the chef not having enough of a reputation to warrant it.  That combined with some early reviews that were less than glowing, and you have a need for the switcheroo.  I sincerely hope it works. I want Shaw Bijou to succeed.     

Hey!

Nice, reasonable posts are not allowed here!

Cool it, Gardner!

[Bob Wells]

On 12/30/2016 at 5:57 PM, Escoffier said:

I tend to agree with you, Don.  There seems to be more cheerleading (albeit sometimes lukewarm or tepid) than criticism.  I vaguely remember (dis-remember?) a review that said something along the lines of "Inn at Little Washington prices with Harold of Chinatown food".   That wasn't written by the WaPo resident food taster obviously. Unfortunately, I can't find that review now but I do know that people weren't exactly breaking down the door to get "tickets' to fill seats. 

"Harold of Chinatown" now that is some world-class snark.