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Central, 11th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue Downtown - Executive Chef Nick Johnson and Chef de Cuisine Sean Mulcahy


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There is a difference between greasy and buttery goodness :blink: and my memory (from two days ago) corresponds with Waitman's.
Hey Bilrus!! Beau and I thought that was you on Monday. We dined at the bar that evening -- had the juicy (greasy, buttery, whatever ;) ) burger and the succulent lamb shank on corn polenta. Loved both -- particularly the lamb with the meat falling off the bone and just a hint of rosemary in the rich sauce. Is that dish in the 'Happy in the Kitchen' cookbook?

-Camille

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There is a difference between greasy and buttery goodness :blink: and my memory (from two days ago) corresponds with Waitman's.

Absolutely. But my personal concern isn't as much with the taste as it is with the practical difficulties of handling slippery bread with such a big burger. It make for a more cumbersome experience. It doesn't actually take away from the taste, but just makes it more difficult to eat. (especially since the bread is so much thinner around the edges than it is in the center) I have never ever seen a restaurant add extra butter on the top of a burger roll. It seems wierd and unnecessary. Especially if (as dmwine nicely pointed out) brioche is an "inherently buttery bread".

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In spite of the raves, I haven't been tempted to order the burger. When my friend had it, she offered me a bit and it was tasty, but slippery and hard to hold. I agree with whoever decried the meat to bun ratio. I'd have been eating it with a knife and fork (and that's no fun). It also struck me as too firmly packed. I prefer a slightly more loosely packed burger a la Palena.

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Mark will probably slam me for posting this, but so be it. From DC magazine, April issue, which nobody reads, and with good reason:

How the hell am I supposed to put that in my mouth? The thought bubbled up as the waiter placed the hamburger before me. The meat was shaped more like a baseball than a patty, and the glistening, airy brioche bun added even more height. But the aromas of broiled beef, tangy cheddar and hickory-smoked bacon couldn't wait, so I tamped down the sandwich with the palm of my hand, hoisted it off the plate and opened wide.

Sploosh! The burger rolled nearly out the far side of the bun, the bottom portion of which was now sopping with juices and useless as a vehicle for conveying food from plate to palate. My date giggled, but she was lucky I'd had my pinkies in position to catch the burger or she'd have been wearing it. At the next table, Michel Richard shot me a quizzical look and a hand wiggle: Thumbs up? Thumbs down? Thumbs sideways?

I responded by holding up my knife and fork.

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Oh, for God's sake, people. It's a burger. Assuming it hasn't been cooked to the carbon-14 stage, there's going to be juice involved, and you might possibly get something that resembles grease on your fingers, whether it's from the burger itself or from the butter on the bun. The slide-around-the-bun effect is the same as you'd get anywhere else that's using a hand-formed patty, and that goes for Central, Palena, Mendocino/Sonoma, the Spotted Pig, and my grandmother's back yard.

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Had another nice experience at Central on Monday. I switched it up a bit and got the 72 Hour Short Ribs that everyone on here has been raving about and have to say that, while they were good, were probably my least favorite of the 6 dishes I have tried at the restaurant. I would go so far as to say that the accompanying salad is the highlight of the dish (love the mustard vinegarette dressing). The short ribs were tender and cooked the way that I like them, but I was not crazy about the gravy and the amount of fat (fairly high) that came with the meat. Of course, I've been spoiled in my past short rib experiences at davidburke & donatella in NYC (where they are immaculate). Still a nice dish, but not something that I can see myself ordering again.

The little woman had the shrimp burger again (she's addicted) and that was predictably outstanding. We also decided to give the Kit Kat bar a whirl for dessert and we loved it. Great combinations with the hazelnut, chocolate, and wafer, a really good finisher for the meal.

I'm also in love with the short glass of Blusser. Refreshing, fairly light yet full of flavor, and a great price for a beer that you will find nowhere else.

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We still ended up going to Central for dinner last weekend even though my husband is vegetarian. I thought I'd report back on what he had. Since they don't have any vegetarian entrees, it's not as veggie friendly as other restaurants as people mentioned above. He ordered the iceberg lettuce with blue cheese dressing salad to start and two appetizers for his entree - the vegetable torte (a green quiche or flanlike square on top of puff pastry - asparagus? spinach?) and mushroom pearl pasta risotto. The iceberg salad was much bigger than we expected, and he ended up with a lot of food. He would have been fine with just the two appetizers, especially because he also ordered the chocolate mousse for dessert (we particularly liked the little chocolate balls that come on top of the mousse). The server was very helpful about confirming that his choices were vegetarian when he ordered and also came back to let us know that he had reconfirmed they were vegetarian.

I had the gougeres, cheeseburger with fries, and the kit kat bar. I really enjoyed the cheeseburger, the bottom bun did get pretty soggy though. And the server did ask me how I wanted my burger when I ordered. I should have shared a dessert as I was super stuffed even though I didn't finish everything.

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Wow - world's greatest burger! Who can explain why the burger is so much better here? I can't. I asked and the GM said good meat and attention to detail. The mayo doesn't hurt either, but there's something more to it, isn't there? Anyone have any ideas what?

We had a much better time here than we did when they first opened. Service was impressive. Early predictions that the GM will be a RAMMY nominee for next year. He was flying all over the place making sure people were on top over everything. Actually, it seemed like there were a few managers on duty and all were pitching in, checking in, and not hesitating to clear random diners' plates. I was impressed.

The fries, blusser, kit kat, and shrimp burger were all really good too. I still prefer the tuna burger to the shrimp, but it was surprisingly good and full of shrimp. What's the story with blusser? How'd Central come to be its exclusive distributor in the US?

And it may be my imagination, but I thought the prices had been reduced, back towards what they were when it first opened.

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...He ordered...and mushroom pearl pasta risotto....
How was the risotto? I saw them prepping it on my last visit and it looked really good. I'm curious because we plan on going back and getting mostly appettizers and desserts (we thought they were more interesting than the mains and ample in size for a meal). Thanks.
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So, after reading the complaints yesterday on Tom Sietsema's chat about Central, I spoke with the manager (my friend Brian ) to find out what was up. The complainer yesterday said "our appetizer arrived and the food arrived 2 minutes later so we sent it back". The "appetizer" was the gougeres, which 2 people were splitting, and very different from 2 salads or soups or 2 different appetizers. Gougeres are snacky food, much like bread. Thankfully, (and I'm sure most of you saw this) Tom pointed out the anonymous complaints from anonymous people. These complainers got a free dessert for no real reason.

The details, folks, the details.

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So, after reading the complaints yesterday on Tom Sietsema's chat about Central, I spoke with the manager (my friend Brian ) to find out what was up. The complainer yesterday said "our appetizer arrived and the food arrived 2 minutes later so we sent it back". The "appetizer" was the gougeres, which 2 people were splitting, and very different from 2 salads or soups or 2 different appetizers. Gougeres are snacky food, much like bread. Thankfully, (and I'm sure most of you saw this) Tom pointed out the anonymous complaints from anonymous people. These complainers got a free dessert for no real reason.

The details, folks, the details.

Come on Mark, are these anonymous idiots really going to accept any responsibility for their actions?

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I am going to disagree here. If I order a snack to go with a cocktail or glass or wine, it would be nice to have some time to enjoy it before the mains arrive.

That said, it's not the end of the world and I wouldn't expect a comp.

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I am going to disagree here. If I order a snack to go with a cocktail or glass or wine, it would be nice to have some time to enjoy it before the mains arrive.

That said, it's not the end of the world and I wouldn't expect a comp.

Well, this particular one falls under the heading of "no good deed goes unpunished". Expediting the main courses seemed like the right thing to do.

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Well, this particular one falls under the heading of "no good deed goes unpunished". Expediting the main courses seemed like the right thing to do.
It's a judgement call. And certainly getting a comp and then bitching about it online is just petty bullshit.
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It's a judgement call. And certainly getting a comp and then bitching about it online is just petty bullshit.
There's a time to explain a comp- for example on chowhound I had a long thread discussing a really poor service experience at a new restaurant in New Orleans last week for which we were comped, but the service was so incredibly bad it couldn't go without a comment (things like asking a waiter to clear a tray and the waiter clearly hearing us and walking away). That said, it's important to temper the comments with the notion that the restaurant recognized its mistakes, and acknowledges that it's got a ways to go.
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That sounds like a much different situation, Jonathon. I am a very exacting person, and will not hesitate to write honestly about my opinions here and in other places. BUT, I do not post anonymously, and I always give the restaurant a chance to fix things while I am still there and they can do something. You sign your posts with your real name too.

Bitching about getting your mains too soon, getting compensated with free dessert for a petty problem, then going online and complaining about it anonymously is being what Don so nicely called an "Anonymous Dickweed."

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That sounds like a much different situation, Jonathon. I am a very exacting person, and will not hesitate to write honestly about my opinions here and in other places. BUT, I do not post anonymously, and I always give the restaurant a chance to fix things while I am still there and they can do something. You sign your posts with your real name too.

Bitching about getting your mains too soon, getting compensated with free dessert for a petty problem, then going online and complaining about it anonymously is being what Don so nicely called an "Anonymous Dickweed."

I think that's fair and I think we're in agreement :blink:
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I don't normally do this. We did make a mistake/s: before the gougeres hit the table, the server fired the main courses. I understood this(however it's not normal practice)trying to cut down the lag between courses. Gougeres take 5 or 6 minutes to make and 2 or 3 minutes to eat(between two people). A short rib or a lobster burger can take 15 to 20 minutes to make.(I would also like to say that we are not in the business of hurrying people; there is a fine line between "are you trying to get us out of here?" and "We've been waiting for our entrees for thirty minutes!") This particular evening the kitchen was on and the food came out a little ahead of schedule. The runner brought the food to the table and the guests sent him packing . Then the server, who believed he would have a little more luck tried to return the food to the table. That's when I was asked to intervene. (this all took place in less than two or three minutes) and explained to the guests that we made a mistake and that I would be more than glad to buy them some desserts or wine for the hiccup in their meal. They wanted to finish their gougeres and I wanted to crawl under a rock for the next one hundred years. Needless to say, I threw away the entrees and we made them new ones. I bought them dessert just because we pestered them so much.

Brian, Jennifer, Daniael and I really do want to take care of people, we don't believe that we are better than anyone. In fact it's kinda scary trying uphold a reputation like Michel's.

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Details, details, details....

The details are why we keep going back to Michel's restaurants even when they pinch pocketbook.

Last week a good friend came down from NY to meet the baby. She is a huge Michel fan--she still raves about our 1996 dinner at Citrus--so it seemed logical to have lunch at Central. Dinner at Citronelle is a bit but with a seven-week old!

Everything was wonderful! The staff smiled at the baby, Justin found us a perfect table and turned down the music and later when I was doing a quick lap with BLBaby in the sling to knock him out before our meal came, he offered to turn it down more. (Truthfully, I think he can sleep through WWIII at this stage...)

I tried the shrimp burger and it was tasty--messy, gooey but just so perfect. I had the salad with it--I finally found green beans I was willing to eat. We split a side of the brussel sprouts and though I regretted it later (the young master isn't fond of them or brocolli...) they were probably the best version I have ever eaten. My friend had the salmon with lentils. Lentils have no business tasting that good! They far out-shone the salmon and the salmon was pretty damn good.

For dessert we split the kit-kat bar and she spent the rest of the weekend wondering if Kit Kat could be persuaded to make a hazelnut version.

Looking forward to going back and trying the hamburger soon!

Jennifer

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While downtown Saturday we decided to see if we could get a seat at the bar to have a glass of wine. Got lucky, only two other people were at the bar. Although our bartender told us that the bar doesn't usually get busy on the weekend until later. While drinking our wine, Twenty Bench cab for me and Summers Elite chardonanny for my other half, both very nice, we browsed the menu. From reading your reviews we tried the Gougeres. I hate to admit it but we won't order again. They weren't hot, and mostly tasted like fried bread with a touch of cheese. We shared an order of mussels, large, plump and more than enough for two to share, the sauce was on the bland side. We then shared the Lobster Burger. Didn't like the bread so we removed the top half of the roll. The lobster was good and cooked just right. For desert we shared the Kit Kat and decided it is among the best deserts we have had. The small portion of ice cream served with it was delicious. Some friends and I are having dinner there Thursday. I hope to try different things but will repeat the Kit Kat if I can convince them to share.

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For dessert we split the kit-kat bar and she spent the rest of the weekend wondering if Kit Kat could be persuaded to make a hazelnut version.

Kit Kat makes an orange-flavored version, which I've only seen overseas, but it is gooooooooood.

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Kit Kat makes an orange-flavored version, which I've only seen overseas, but it is gooooooooood.

I believe it's because Kit Kats are manufactured by Nestle in the UK, and they've run amok with the flavors. My favorite of the UK ones were the 'Caramac' flavored one and the lime flavored ones. They also have some "posh" single bar kit kats, which I suppose could have the hazelnut flavor , which are also amazing.

But to stay on topic, I'm planning on getting out to Central soon, so this nouveau Kit Kat is a must when I go!

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Kit Kat makes an orange-flavored version, which I've only seen overseas, but it is gooooooooood.
The recipe for the hazelnut version is given in Michel Richard's "Happy in the Kitchen" cookbook. It is insanely easy and sublimely and sinfully delicious. It doesn't even NEED the hazelnut sauce, but it's certainly welcome. Try substituting Rice Krispies for the cornflakes.
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I believe it's because Kit Kats are manufactured by Nestle in the UK, and they've run amok with the flavors. My favorite of the UK ones were the 'Caramac' flavored one and the lime flavored ones. They also have some "posh" single bar kit kats, which I suppose could have the hazelnut flavor , which are also amazing.

But to stay on topic, I'm planning on getting out to Central soon, so this nouveau Kit Kat is a must when I go!

They sometimes have featured flavors here too. I recall seeing the orange, malt, mint, and caramel. I don't recall seeing them in supermarkets, just as promotional displays in drugstores and Target. I was very excited about the malt but it had no detectable malt taste.

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I ate lunch at Central yesterday after jury duty. I used all my money DC gave me, but that didn't get me through the meal. Or to my first drink :blink: Anyways- The food was excellent as it consistently has been, but just a note on it- I ate at the bar and the bar appeared to be in disarray from when I sat at 1:30 or so until 2:45 when I left- service was certainly slowing down and no one was paying attention to the clenliness of the bar area. Stools were in every which direction, I noticed 3-4 napkins from previous diners on the floor, bottles were kind of all over the place on the bar. It just seemed like everyone was heavily focused on bussing the restaurant side and no one was paying any attention to the bar. This didn't make it a bad experience, but it was just something worth noting to me at least.

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All this talk about hamburgers and short ribs and gougeres when the best things on the menu are the charcuterie plate, the shrimp burger, and the salmon with lentils. Maybe not as glamourous or greasy as some of the other options, but damn do they hit the spot every time.

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I ate at Central last weekend for the first time and I must say that I was unfortunately underwhelmed by the level of service. The food was great and we had a nice time, but I didn't leave feeling like the complete package was worth what we ended up paying . We got exceptionally poor wine service (twice), with our server keeping the cork on the corkscrew and putting it in her pocket, serving a taste to the host then pouring the host a full glass before moving to the ladies at the table; a cheese plate dropped as an appetizer with no explanation of the 5 or 6 different cheeses on the plate; and seemingly inattentive service throughout.

The worst part came at the end when we asked for dessert menus and were told "the kitchen closed over 1 hour ago". When we mentioned that we weren't aware of this our server told us that "she got in trouble for even putting our entrees in".

Like I mentioned above, the food was excellent but the service left a bit to be desired. The manager told us our server was great and was just having an off night, which I can understand, but I left with a somewhat unpleasant taste in my mouth.

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What is the salmon with lentils like (beyond the obvious)? I'm heading to Central for lunch on Tuesday, and will be ordering something seafood-oriented.

Light and very flavorful, which was kind of surprising from a piece of grilled salmon and lentils. The fish is lightly crusted with what tasted to me like pepper and corriander, but I may be wrong on that. Either way, the taste is faint and very nice, as the medium-cooked, moist piece of fish is fine on it's own. The lentils, as mentioned before, are the star of the show, as they have a slightly creamy texture and a tanginess that meshed perfectly with the rest of the dish.

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Like I mentioned above, the food was excellent but the service left a bit to be desired. The manager told us our server was great and was just having an off night, which I can understand, but I left with a somewhat unpleasant taste in my mouth.

If a manager said that to me It would have left an unpleasant taste in my mouth as well. How smug. Excuses are tools of incompetence.......

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[quote name='pbgrill' date='May 17 2007, 07:03 PM' post='79707

If a manager said that to me It would have left an unpleasant taste in my mouth as well. How smug. Excuses are tools of incompetence.......

And what if it was said along the lines of I am sorry, the server is usually great, but must be having an off night. That would not excuse the service, but it does necessarily mean that he manager was being smug. What you quoted is a bit ambiguous and leads to an important question. When was the manager notified of the lack of service?

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And what if it was said along the lines of I am sorry, the server is usually great, but must be having an off night. That would not excuse the service, but it does necessarily mean that he manager was being smug. What you quoted is a bit ambiguous and leads to an important question. When was the manager notified of the lack of service?

The manager was not notified about the wine service, as for the most part the wine ended up in our glass and it was a nice vino, so I didn't see the need to notify anyone at that point. They were notified when we were told that dessert was not an option. At which point we told the manager our overall feelings in regard to the service.

I don't think the manager was being intentionally smug, although I do feel that there was an overall indifference (in part because it was the end of the night and we were some of the last people there...although that is not an excuse). The manager spoke with us and brought a dessert, at which point he disappeared into the back, as did the server. No one checked back with us after we were given a dessert and when we finished dessert and got up to leave, there were no employees or managers in sight.

Maybe I'm being picky, but at a restaurant of this caliber, I expected more.

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First, Justin makes the bestest drinks ever. The home made gin & tonic is amazing.

Last week five friends, including a bona fide Manhattan snob, joined me for dinner at Central. Considering the original party was for 4, I was happy to wait for a table of 6. Then it took forever for us to order since we were talking and drinking... then eating the apps.

We started with a round of appetizers. The Faux Gras and duck terrine (?) was my choice. I loved it but it needs to be served with more grilled bread. We also had an onion tart which was like the perfect after school treat you wished your mom made. The asparagus were good as always.

My friends all devoured their entrees which included the tuna burger, lobster burger, short ribs and fried chicken. My main was a hamburger. Next time I'll try something else as the bun was dry and the patty bigger than in the past. Seems they have been listening to everybody else's complaints. Unfortunately for me I liked the things about the hamburger that others did not. But it didn't really matter because I have the memories of the perfect Central burger to keep me happy and I was having fun with my friends.

Dessert was a kit kat bar split three ways which was plenty. One friend had the sundae which was huge and presented in a more traditional manner than when I last had it.

All in all it was a fabulous night of food, drink and fun.

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First, Justin makes the bestest drinks ever. The home made gin & tonic is amazing.

Is that "home made gin" and tonic, "home made tonic" and gin, or some other permutation?

If it's the first, ask him if I can borrow his still.

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Just got back from lunch - had the asparagus (very tasty) and the tuna burger. My tuna burger experience was slightly marred by the presence of mayonnaise (which I had asked for on the side - I just don't generally like mayo on anything). I think, though, that I'd order something else next time - not that the tuna burger wasn't good, but it wasn't as "new and different" as I'd hoped. I also had the kitkat for dessert, which lived up to expectations.

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Maybe I'm being picky, but at a restaurant of this caliber, I expected more.
What caliber is that? Isn't Central a bistro? Or does being Richard's bistro jump it to another level of service? ;) I can't think of the last bistro I went to that walked us through the cheese course.

ETA, not jumping on you, pbgrill. Just curious.

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What caliber is that? Isn't Central a bistro? Or does being Richard's bistro jump it to another level of service? ;) I can't think of the last bistro I went to that walked us through the cheese course.

ETA, not jumping on you, pbgrill. Just curious.

Well, this is a three star place, right?

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What caliber is that? Isn't Central a bistro? Or does being Richard's bistro jump it to another level of service? ;) I can't think of the last bistro I went to that walked us through the cheese course.

ETA, not jumping on you, pbgrill. Just curious.

I think the expectation for Central is significantly higher than a typical bistro. With Michael Richard at the helm people expect that things will be better and different than you may run into at other supposedly comprable places. Central is defined, in my opinion, more by Richard than by whatever category we fit the food into (bistro), and as a result I think that things such as explaining what is on your plate should be the norm moreso than the exception. Plus it is a three star place which sets a certain expectation level.

I also don't feel that explaining the cheeses on a cheese course constitutes above and beyond service. It seems to me that any restaurant that offers a $14 plate of cheese should tell you just what it is you're eating.

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I think the expectation for Central is significantly higher than a typical bistro. With Michael Richard at the helm people expect that things will be better and different than you may run into at other supposedly comprable places. Central is defined, in my opinion, more by Richard than by whatever category we fit the food into (bistro), and as a result I think that things such as explaining what is on your plate should be the norm moreso than the exception. Plus it is a three star place which sets a certain expectation level.

I also don't feel that explaining the cheeses on a cheese course constitutes above and beyond service. It seems to me that any restaurant that offers a $14 plate of cheese should tell you just what it is you're eating.

If I go to a restaurant at 10:15 and they close at 10:30, and I order three courses not including dessert, I am usually not surprised that the kitchen is closed, cleaned and locked an hour an a half later. Why were you? Just curious.

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If I go to a restaurant at 10:15 and they close at 10:30, and I order three courses not including dessert, I am usually not surprised that the kitchen is closed, cleaned and locked an hour an a half later. Why were you? Just curious.

I have to respectfully disagree. I have worked in every kind of enviroment-- from chains, to mom and pops, to bars, to fine dining--- no matter where I have worked a table that had dinner has always had the option to order dessert. I might have grumbled about it under my breath, if a table was keeping me forever & seemingly the kitchen was closed to any newcomers---BUT they are there to dine and that includes the whole exp. At the very least a table should be asked if they would like dessert, because the kitchen in finishing up. We are there to provide service, I don't think a table would be wrong to be taken aback--if it all happened as its been laid out.

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I have to respectfully disagree. I have worked in every kind of enviroment-- from chains, to mom and pops, to bars, to fine dining--- no matter where I have worked a table that had dinner has always had the option to order dessert. I might have grumbled about it under my breath, if a table was keeping me forever & seemingly the kitchen was closed to any newcomers---BUT they are there to dine and that includes the whole exp. At the very least a table should be asked if they would like dessert, because the kitchen in finishing up. We are there to provide service, I don't think a table would be wrong to be taken aback--if it all happened as its been laid out.

jtyler, Your point is well taken, however, in this case, the persons spoke to the manager at the time. The manager admitted that mistakes were made, the manager went in the kitchen, unlocked it, and made them a complimentary dessert. Why isn't that the end of the story a week later?

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People feel so entitled these days, it kills me. If you want to order 3 courses + dessert, going out after 10 o'clock probably isn't the best idea.

But that goes to something that I, at age 37, still don't understand. Do the posted hours mean that is when you'll get kicked out, or the last moment you will be seated, or the time you won't be allowed to order anything else. I think it varies from place to place which is why I am eternally confused by it. I appreciate that Dino clearly states what time the kitchen closes. Of course, I am rarely out late these days though I do appreciate places that serve lunch late into the afternoon as I rarely get myself organized in a timely manner of late...

(Don, this probably belongs in the etiquette thread or somewhere else as it is broader than Central...)

Jennifer

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