Central, 11th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue Downtown - Executive Chef Nick Johnson and Chef de Cuisine Sean Mulcahy

[MBK]

By chance I stopped by Central for its inaugural lunch service today, and all I can say is this - the raves about the corned beef and hamburger are deserved. Well-deserved. It is both a good and bad thing that I work nearby.

[Lydia R]

The duck & pate combo were "byond" good. I especially liked the pate, it had a mix of froie gras and something else.

Isn't the pate faux gras that is made with chicken livers and such to mimic foie gras? Glad to hear that it was good as I will have to make some using the recipe from Happy in the Kitchen.

It is quite tasty and I'm looking forward to having the Charcouterie plate again because Central has since started serving their own cured meats along with a nicely sized portion of the Chicken Faux Gras.

If you don't have your book handy, Ruth Riechl demonstrated Chef Richard's recipe on Gourmet Magazine's PBS show. The mousse is one pound chicken livers, one cup butter, a half-cup heavy cream (among other things) and no duck at all. The Parsley Gelée includes cucumber of all things.

ETA: I'm glad Central's serving lunch - can RTC, please, be close behind?

[TinDC]

That blueberry champagne sounds SO good. I don't remember seeing it on the menu when I was there. Nonetheless, I can't wait to try it!

[ulysses]

That blueberry champagne sounds SO good. I don't remember seeing it on the menu when I was there.

It's actually Bugey Cerdon, a sparkling rose wine made from gamay. We will be using it in a blueberry cocktail this spring/summer.

[Chica Grace]

It's actually Bugey Cerdon, a sparkling rose wine made from gamay. We will be using it in a blueberry cocktail this spring/summer.

mr ulysses: as long as you have a good stock at fabulous Central, that is all I need to know. I'm sure the well-trained bar staff will know what I mean when I ask for it. An excellent time was had on Saturday night. Thank you for everything. I will be he first in -line to try said blueberry cocktail

[dclounger]

How do people suggest I get the burger cooked?

[Jacques Gastreaux]

How do people suggest I get the burger cooked?

As the chef thinks it should be cooked.

[Mark Slater]

How do people suggest I get the burger cooked?

The only way to have it cooked is the way you like it.

[DLB]

I had the burger last night. It is by far the best burger I have ever had in a restaurant. It had the perfect bun to meat ratio, and was seasoned really well. I guess it you are going to charge $20 for a burger, it had better be damn good, as this one was. Totally worth it!

[synaesthesia]

I'm trying to figure this out today, but the restaurant is closed so I can't call. Does anyone know what the price is for a side order at lunch?

[JLK]

I took my visiting mother who was very much in need of a good martini and an even better meal to Central last night. You see, my father has been dealing with several health issues for the last five months and four weeks ago, he had open heart surgery. Now that Dad is doing well, Mom needed to escape her caretaker role for a night.

First, the criticism. Err, um. Maybe there were too many raisins in the apple pandowdy? Seriously, that's the biggest complaint I can conjure. Our meal and the overall experience was just great.

At the bar, I was introduced to bartender Wayne as well as bar manager Justin. It was a warm welcome that included those fantastic gougeres, a vodka martini for Mom and a sneak peek at a spring cocktail not yet on the menu for me. Featuring Pimm's, Hendricks gin and celery soda, it took me a bit out of my comfort zone - a great thing - at first, and I really enjoyed it. Such a fresh, crisp taste. Even my mother who thinks she doesn't like gin enjoyed her taste.

Off to a great start. Justin's hospitality didn't end when we moved from the bar to the table; his presence was felt throughout our evening in spite of the restaurant being full to capacity, perhaps past. Even Michel Richard was in the house for at least an hour and Justin made a point of introducing me toward the end of my meal. A treat.

When we were shown to our table, I was a bit nervous because the two-top was very close to a four-top filled with two couples in the midst of their entrees. Mom and I felt like we were intruding, but in the end, we really enjoyed the company of our neighbors. They were such great, interesting people that at the end of it, we exchanged contact information. Yes, we're those kind of people, so if close quarters and random conversations aren't your thing then keep an eye out for this when making reservations and being seated.

The menu is full of all sort of temptations and I can't wait to go back to try more dishes. We eventually ordered asparagus vinaigrette and the frisee with lardons and poached egg to start. Both were wonderful and I was surprised by the quality of the asparagus (so sweet) in winter. I was oohing and ahing over my frisee which was a strange sight for my mother as I have been a lifelong salad hater; put a poached egg and bacon in something green, and I get over it and happily.

After some trepidation over whether she could get over the redness of the beef ( ), my mother did order the 72 hour braised short ribs. Our kind neighbors and I gave her a crash course on the sous vide technique and stressed that yes, the meat really is cooked through. They also counseled her to have the steak sauce on the side which struck me as good advice when I tasted it. Enjoyable but rich. Other than the bite she shared with me - delicious - she ate every tender piece of short rib AND the luscious, creamy potato puree that accompanied the beef. I ordered the fried chicken after hearing so much about it here and I wasn't disappointed. Next trip, I'll probably try the hangar steak or lamb shank. It all sounded so good.

We also had a side of the macaroni and cheese which was buttery and, again, rich and delicous. We couldn't finish it so soon it will be my Sunday dinner.

For dessert we shared the aforementioned apple pandowdy with ice cream. We loved the pastry and the apples, but left a lot of raisins in the dish. I suppose I'll be able to get over it and return.

Really, just a great meal. The bill excluding drinks and gougeres at the bar was about $110 including tax and 20% tip with one glass of wine and the food described above. Worth every penny.

[gnatharobed]

I have a reservation for two tomorrow at 7 pm that I can't use. If anyone wants it please PM me. Otherwise I'm gonna cancel it tonight.

[Nadya]

Nature tolerates no vacuum. It's official. Central on Monday night is what PalenaMondayNight used to be.

Finally tried the burger as I felt I was sliding to me old Burger-Hatin' Euro ways. Let me tell you. That burger is the work of art. Crisp brioche bun, perfectly done (that is, cooked perfectly in accordance with my blood-loving instructions) patty, cheese, bacon, mayo tarted up with some horseradish, and a little love letter from a kitchen sophisticate, a paper-thin tuille-like crisp flat potato chip made of shredded potato lovingly supporting the meat from both sides.

The bar drinks continue to entertain and for once in me young life, I would willingly take alcohol over dessert. That Pimms cocktail smells of spring. The apricot libation is just decadent. And next Monday, well, you know where I'll be

[tdubbs]

With all the positive postings here, my wife and I had high expectations for Central when we dined last Friday but ended up leaving less than impressed... so much so that its inspired my first post [okay technically my second post]. In my opinion, even Michel Richard's take on bistro food is not worth the prices he's asking. Overall, most of the food was well prepared, but nothing really stood out and some dishes really disappointed. The scene was also a bit much for what's supposed to be a bistro.

We started with the gougeres and tuna carpaccio. The gougeres were light and boring. I expected more flavor and was a bit underwhelmed. While the gougeres were underwhelming, the tuna carpaccio was overwhelming. It came floating in the asian sauce. The excessive use of asian sauce (maybe it was accidental) ruined the tuna. The plate was a pond of sauce, and we joked that the tuna had expanded from absorbing so much of the sauce that every bite was like squeezing a wet sponge filled with soy sauce in our mouths. Not exactly how I want to imagine eating my tuna carpaccio.

For our entrees, we ordered the lobster burger and the lamb shank with polenta. The lamb shank was well prepared and tender. The polenta was unexpected and, combined with the sauce (one dish I don't mind too much sauce), was probably one of my favorite parts of the meal. Overall, I liked the choice for the money but did not find it extraordinary. On the other hand, if you're going to charge $28 for a lobster burger, it better be out of this world. Being New Englanders originally, we tend to like lobster as simply prepared as possible so this may be a wrong choice for any lobster purist. We both agreed that the burger was interesting to try but a bit mushy. While the fries were crisp and perfectly salted, the potato and bun just detracted from the lobster. I'll take the lobster roll at Hanks for $17 any day over the lobster burger.

We ended with the Le Kit Kat. It lived up to the hype and was definitely the best kitkat bar I've ever had. Pretty much licked the plate clean.

I thought the wine selection was good but having to ask for the Bourdeaux glasses was tacky. Maybe that's the point being styled a bistro. But, my feeling is if you have 'em, use 'em. Don't make your customers ask.

We liked the open kitchen and the hanging charcuterie, but neither of us were big fans of the minimal decor, especially the wooden tables. Maybe the thinking was that customers would wear enough gucci and chanel that the restaurant didn't need any decor. We saw more high-end clothing and accessories than you could find in a Neiman Marcus. Its probably not too outlandish to claim that Central has established itself as the downtown version of Cafe Milano. All in all, we thought we could have better spent our $140 if all we were looking for is a bistro meal. It may be worth a visit for lunch, but if its Michel Richard that you want, seek out Citronelle instead.

[Roo]

Tried out the new filet tartare last night. Really exceptional, especially the texture. Go ahead and ask about the crunchy spheres that dot the tartare. I was surprised when I found out what they were!

[Jacques Gastreaux]

And I tried the new lamb and potato stew. They use the lamb from the lamb shank and combine it with some potatoes and sauce. It comes studded with these crunchy wafer things that add a texture contrast. Very good and appears designed to ward off the cold weather; the design is effective.

And I disagree with the post a couple of notches up. Central provides Michel Richard's twist on classic bistro fare and it's not appropriate to compare it to Citronelle. You get Michel Richard regardless which of his establishments you visit (in my view).

[eating out]

By chance I stopped by Central for its inaugural lunch service today, and all I can say is this - the raves about the corned beef and hamburger are deserved. Well-deserved. It is both a good and bad thing that I work nearby.

How pricey is it for lunch? Are there any deals? Are we talking + or - $20 for lunch?

[MBK]

How pricey is it for lunch? Are there any deals? Are we talking + or - $20 for lunch?

My memory may be slightly off, but I think I spent approx $25 with tax and tip, no alcohol. We're not talking cheap, but we are talking tasty...

[Jacques Gastreaux]

How pricey is it for lunch? Are there any deals? Are we talking + or - $20 for lunch?

To give you an idea, the hamburger is $16 ($18 w/cheese). But it does come with fries.

[tdubbs]

And I disagree with the post a couple of notches up. Central provides Michel Richard's twist on classic bistro fare and it's not appropriate to compare it to Citronelle. You get Michel Richard regardless which of his establishments you visit (in my view).

Central is to Citronelle like Bouchon is to French Laundry. While Central and Bouchon demonstrate both chefs' meticulous skills and versatility, they are not going to provide the true Thomas Keller or Michel Richard experience. That's my point. I appreciate their interpretation of classic bistro food, but I'd take a place like Bistro Jeanty if what I wanted was bistro food (just jump on that imaginary private jet I have) and save up for Citronelle if I was looking to enjoy all that is Michel Richard.

[mdt]

Central is to Citronelle like Bouchon is to French Laundry. While Central and Bouchon demonstrate both chefs' meticulous skills and versatility, they are not going to provide the true Thomas Keller or Michel Richard experience. That's my point. I appreciate their interpretation of classic bistro food, but I'd take a place like Bistro Jeanty if what I wanted was bistro food (just jump on that imaginary private jet I have) and save up for Citronelle if I was looking to enjoy all that is Michel Richard.

How can it not be the true Michel Richard experience if they are serving his food? It is not Michel Richard's Citronelle experience, but it certainly is Michel Richard.

On a side note, I prefer Bistro Jeanty to Bouchon myself.

[bilrus]

Is it the true Michel Richard experience if you cook from his cookbook?

No. And the further a diner is removed from the mothership, the less one is like to likely to experience the mother. Once-removed is something of a sibling, perhaps a cousin, (have you bought a painting from a cousin of Dali, Cezanne, or Goya, even though the master himself was supervising the buying of the canvas, the paint, and the general technique of the brushstrokes, despite that he wasn't doing it himself? No, nor have I, not will I.)

In theory, we're all related to Adam, and after a point of separation, it doesn't much matter where the lineage begins or ends.

Cheers,

Rocks.

If this is so, then how many places aren't the real deal? If Keller is in Napa this week, is Per Se not a "Keller experience"? If Landrum is in Silver Spring, is Ray's the Steaks not a "Landrum experience"? Is this the first time Keller and Landrum were considered in the same train of thought?

If I cook from the French Laundry Cookbook, it isn't Keller's food, just like if I went to Ray's and bought 2 strip steaks and cooked them on my patio grill it isn't Landrum's. But that's because I haven't been trained by them in their system and I'm not trusted by them enough to reproduce their foods to their standards. And rightly so, I might add.

[mdt]

If this is so, then how many places aren't the real deal? If Keller is in Napa this week, is Per Se not a "Keller experience"? If Landrum is in Silver Spring, is Ray's the Steaks not a "Landrum experience"? Is this the first time Keller and Landrum were considered in the same train of thought?

If I cook from the French Laundry Cookbook, it isn't Keller's food, just like if I went to Ray's and bought 2 strip steaks and cooked them on my patio grill it isn't Landrum's. But that's because I haven't been trained by them in their system and I'm not trusted by them enough to reproduce their foods to their standards. And rightly so, I might add.

You took the works right off of my keyboard!

[crackers]

(have you bought a painting from a cousin of Dali, Cezanne, or Goya, even though the master himself was supervising the buying of the canvas, the paint, and the general technique of the brushstrokes, despite that he wasn't doing it himself? No, nor have I, not will I.)

I'm sure nobody would suggest that Keller and Richard leave the kitchen in the hands of talentless cousins!

Sometimes the student is every bit as talented as the teacher, if not moreso. So yeah, I'd love to own a piece of art supervised by, say Ghirlandaio, because his apprentice, Michelangelo, was one bad-ass painter!

[Jacques Gastreaux]

I think the analogy to Keller is off base. Citronelle and Central are in the same town as are the two Ray's establishments. Richard can be seen regularly running the show at Central. I don't know how often Landrum don's the bloody apron any more.

[Nadya]

Cedric did serious time under Michel Richard's tutelage. I'm pretty sure Richard by now has him drilled in all the details of How The Big Man Wants Things Done.

[Nadya]

My wife and I joined two friends at Central last night. There are definitely some service kinks to be ironed out, but our food was top notch. We didn't have a reservation and were initially told that it would be around a 45 minute wait, and that we could not eat in the bar. Not a problem, we grabbed some wine, and sat in the bar, and stared at several four-tops open in front of us for the next hour. The space is beautiful, by the way. After about an hour or so we were seated at one of the open tables we'd been staring at.

I didn't see this comment until much later, but I need to make a Public Service Announcement again. Please, people. Please. Just because the tables happen to be un-seated at the exact moment you are staring at them, it doesn't mean that they are available! If you walk in at 6 pm, and you are told there are no tables available, so you park at the bar and ogle the tables resentfully, it may very well be that there is a reservation pending for that table at 7.15 pm, and the reservationist has no reason to believe you will be done in an hour. Why did they seat you later? Who knows? Maybe there was a cancellation. Maybe they decided they could squeeze you in after all. I will face the rage of a walk-in who is denied a table any day over making half-assed apologies to a reservation who walks in and can't be seated at a reasonable time.

[Rachael H]

You all have to realize, chefs, no matter at what level, may want to open another restaurant. They do this because they want to fulfill another part of their passion. They don't want to open a duplicate of what they have, they want to reinvent themselves. They train their staff at home. Thomas Keller's opening staff at Per Se all worked at The French Laundry for at least a year. Cedric and Dawn both worked at Citronelle paying their dues. I would hardly call any of them talentless cousins!! Most of the time they open restaurants that they themselves would want to eat at when they are not working. Yes, Bouchon is Thomas Keller's food. Its not French Laundry food, but that isn't why you go there. The same thing holds true for Central. You go to these restaurants to eat what the chef would want to eat, when sitting at the bar, or when their family is in town. You go to be involved in a new experience. Plus if you make dinner from The French Laundry cookbook, you are not making Thomas Keller's food, you are trying to duplicate Thomas Keller's food and ideas.

[Jacques Gastreaux]

Cedric and Dawn both worked at Citronelle paying their dues. I would hardly call any of them talentless cousins!!

I think the poster above who made the reference to "talentless cousins" was implying just the opposite.

I'm sure nobody would suggest that Keller and Richard leave the kitchen in the hands of talentless cousins!

[DonRocks]

Once-removed is something of a sibling, perhaps a cousin, (have you bought a painting from a cousin of Dali, Cezanne, or Goya, even though the master himself was supervising the buying of the canvas, the paint, and the general technique of the brushstrokes, despite that he wasn't doing it himself? No, nor have I, not will I.

This is arguably the stupidest thing I have ever written.

[deangold]

This is arguably the stupidest thing I have ever written.

The quoted sentance is obviously self referential. I find it hard to believe that the stupidest sentance you ahve ever written is a true sentance. So if it is true, it is false. And vice versa.

[Heather]

We were just wondering what you had been smoking, and whether it all made sense to you at the time.

(We'd probably all be surprised to learn how many Old Masters owed some of their genius to the hand of an apprentice.)

[DonRocks]

We were just wondering what you had been smoking, and whether it all made sense to you at the time.

In my defense, I was on the last leg of a seven-day, wine-soaked shellfish orgy through Galicia, writing in a Prado-induced haze, and on the verge of dementia from lack of sleep. I'm back now, looking like an exhausted, girthy rat. And guess where I'm going...

[youngfood]

The serving sizes here are not small. I can't remember the last place I went where the food was good and the servings were so big actually....

The Short Ribs deserve the hype. They are deliciously rich. Pairing them with the charcuterie to start is too much. I'm not a meat guy, but these are much more interesting than they sound and wonderfully tender. Tender + Ribs = Good wholesome fun. Also deserving of the hype of the faux gras which you can sample in the charcuterie board. The board is big enough for four to split and probably too big to call an appetizer for two. Never have I ever had a doggy bag for an appetizer before...

The place is still slammed packed, but they seem to be handling it really well. We had to wait for valet when arriving, but despite four groups ahead of us when we left, they managed to pull all the cars within a few minutes.

I will say that I wasn't wild about our server. He was very sure of himself, but I didn't think he should be. I should have asked to see a sommelier for wine advice. I still can't seem to figure out the appropriate way to do so and never seem to look the part such that my servers offer to send one over. I also would have appreciated being told what was arriving on the charcuterie board.

Something I think highly underrated is the Tuna Burger. I've loved it at Citronelle Lounge and I love it here. I think it is as good as the Lobster burger about which I have no complaints.

[Poivrot Farci]

chefs... They do this because they want to fulfill another part of their passion. They don't want to open a duplicate of what they have, they want to reinvent themselves.

Consider the Zappa & Vongerichten's & Keller's & English's & Colicchio's & Palmer's & Batali's & Ramsey's et al Mothers'... “We're Only in It For the Money” album.

[Heather]

Absolutely. A real chef would never want to make any of that filthy stuff.

youngfood, I would just ask to speak to the sommelier when the server comes to ask for your wine order. "May I speak with someone about our wine choices?" might work.

[TinDC]

Is valet parking new? I don't recall it being an option last time I was there.

[bookluvingbabe]

Is valet parking new? I don't recall it being an option last time I was there.

We went a week after the opening and were able to use the valet.

[giant shrimp]

Something I think highly underrated is the Tuna Burger.

catch as catch can. the bun was a bit too buttery, the diced tuna too salty somewhat. (i should have asked because they will tell you everything about the food here, but i noted soy which didn't really rev the whole thing up.) the thin crunch of potato is thoughtful, no surprise (i always used to stuff my tuna sandwiches with potato chips), but again, just didn't send this burger into orbit. the accompanying fries were okay as well, just not stellar. a side of cream spinach was heavy as in it would have stuck to the wall if i'd lobbed it, but tasted okay, cheesy, and the spinach itself was well cooked. frisee and lardon salad is just about everything it should be, though i wondered where the yolk had gone from the coddled egg, and it was definitely not in a class by itself. (i used to order this at bis years ago and it was better.) a pepper strip steak was perfectly cooked and the sauce was good, but maybe there was too much of it running all over the plate, mixing with the blood and the special creamed onions that we were told diners frequently mistake for fettucini. (you can fool me with calamari, but not with these.) the crab cake was indelicate, big and plump but the onion filling seemed a bit out of place, maybe not for traditionalists from these parts. a perfectly respectable though somewhat dull pear sorbet delivered in the fruit department, but i didn't order it, which i probably should have, because by the time i got to the orange souffle i was so full i was mostly happy that the server was judicious in the amount of chocolate she drizzled over it. again, it seemed fine; i just had to ask myself if maybe i was coming down with something. too much of the food was falling flat. i can't say i'm finished with this place yet. there's a lot more on the menu, and the decor is sumptuous and modern, on the stark wood and chrome side with beautiful oversized inverted lightshades warming to an earth-tone watermelon. we just breezed through it, but the bar ought to be in pictures. i will be the first to admit that i don't totally understand what the food here is trying to do. we didn't run into anything nearly as exciting as what you would find in a leading parisian bistro; but maybe we are just too jaded to appreciate rifs on american cooking in this context. (isn't that what colorado kitchen, buck's and the standbys at palena cafe are for?) don't go to central twice and you can hope to catch the real thing at citronelle once. dinner with everything, $197.

[bilrus]

I know we've been over this in this thread already, but I'm not sure I understand why people keep comparing the food and the food to value ratio of Central to Citronelle. They are two totally different restaurants with completely different food and different styles.

Where does that expectation come from? Why is it assumed that Citronelle is "preferable" to Central? Not "better" just "preferable".

[DLB]

The food is good not great at Central, I would take the food served at Citronelle Lounge over Central any day. Central is what it is: Good bistro food.

[LaShanta]

I finally went here on Saturday. It totally met (maybe not exceeded, but definitely met) my expectations!!!

I got the hamburger. Now, it was really, really tasty and I LOVED the little potato crisp on top. My minor complaint was that the bun was shrinking as I was eating the burger. I think it is because the bun gets thinner/flatter as it nears the edges of the burger. This also makes the bun move around a bit more as you're eating it. It was a rather messy process, but well worth all the juices that flowed down my arm. ïŠ I got the salad instead of fries (I'm giving up fried foods for a while) so I can't comment on them.

For dessert, I got the Kit Kat bar. It was really yummy! But I was soooo full from the burger that I had to sadly leave most of the dessert on my plate.

OVERALL - Great place!! Wonderful food! Fantastic prices!! I love the crowd and the service. (The managers were absolutely wonderful & very attentive.) It will definitely be in my heavy rotation of places.

[brr]

I snuck out from a meeting Thursday to grab lunch at the bar. Had the burger, it was nice but as LaShanta noted quite a messy proposition to eat.

Service was great. As I was eating I noticed a bottle of liquor called Vieux Marc Chateneuf de Pape. As CdP is one of my favorite wines, I was curious as to what it was. The bartender immediately asked if I'd like a sample and one of the managers came over to give me a little tutorial on what it was. (for those of you like me who haven't heard of this, its made from fermented grape stems, "like a French grappa" I was told, very limited production, I think he mentioned 200 cases a year). When I googled it later I also found out that it features in a Picasso painting.

Anyways, its a lovely little drink, light and fruity and very warming on a cold day like Thursday.

[Jacques Gastreaux]

The food is good not great at Central, I would take the food served at Citronelle Lounge over Central any day. Central is what it is: Good bistro food.

Interesting obervation. I thought many of the menu items at the Citronelle Lounge (lobster and tuna burgers come to mind) could be had at Central.

[jm chen]

Central is what it is: Good bistro food.

Well, yes and no, in my opinion. Some of it, like the burger and the fries, is good bistro food; other stuff, like the filet mignon tartare, faux gras (!!), and the giant platter of sous vide short ribs, that stuff is further along the spectrum toward fine dining.

Can you get a crab cake at a casual midpriced place? Sure. Is it as good as Central's crab cake? I doubt it.

Perception may depend on which things you order, because the price certainly will. Combine a high-end app with a high-end main and you'll pay $46 for two courses; but you could also get gougeres and a shrimp burger for $26.

[DLB]

Interesting obervation. I thought many of the menu items at the Citronelle Lounge (lobster and tuna burgers come to mind) could be had at Central.

This is true, however it does not make them equal.

Well, yes and no, in my opinion. Some of it, like the burger and the fries, is good bistro food; other stuff, like the filet mignon tartare, faux gras (!!), and the giant platter of sous vide short ribs, that stuff is further along the spectrum toward fine dining.

Can you get a crab cake at a casual midpriced place? Sure. Is it as good as Central's crab cake? I doubt it.

Perception may depend on which things you order, because the price certainly will. Combine a high-end app with a high-end main and you'll pay $46 for two courses; but you could also get gougeres and a shrimp burger for $26.

All of the above items would be considered refined bistro fare. I would not consider tartare and braised short ribs "fine dining" anymore.

[Jacques Gastreaux]

This is true, however it does not make them equal.

I did not mean to imply that they were equal as they most certainly are not. The mushroom cigars available at the Citronelle lounge and not available at Central are more Cintroelle-esque than they are Central-esque bistro fare. That is why Bilrus's post above is apt. Try to eat at the Citronelle for what you can get out of of Central for. The comparisons fail on any number of levels.

[giant shrimp]

I know we've been over this in this thread already, but I'm not sure I understand why people keep comparing the food and the food to value ratio of Central to Citronelle. They are two totally different restaurants with completely different food and different styles.

Where does that expectation come from? Why is it assumed that Citronelle is "preferable" to Central? Not "better" just "preferable".

from my quite limited experience, the food at citronelle is better and that's why it's preferable. they may be two totally different restaurants, but the michel richard mothership is definitely hovering over this place, and there seem to be abundant references in this kitchen to citronelle's cooking techniques. if i had just ordered the cheeseburger even on a sloppy night, maybe the outcome would have been different, but i left here with the feeling that i had just wasted my time and money. a tuna burger leaning in the direction of ahi sushi on buttered brioche may have put a new spin on a tuna burger, but after eating it i felt that maybe the rachel ray approach of giving the fish a whirl in a food processor and searing a real patty might be more flavorful. it was obvious that a great deal of thought had gone into the few dishes we tried, but for whatever the reason they tended in the aggregate to be too heavy, too rich and ultimately unsatisfying. watching us throughout the meal was a large portrait of the renowned chef himself, and the food we ate, while not bad, did not live up to his reputation. blame it on fate.

[Jacques Gastreaux]

Hell, I'd "prefer" to eat at Citronelle too, who wouldn't. I'd also "prefer" to dine at some of the other 4-star places like CityZen and Maestro. However, Citronelle a smaller restaurant, you have to book a table far in advance and the price level is not conducive to once-a-week visits. Central is a much larger establishment, you can get a table on short notice and the price level conducive to more frequent visits. To say that you "prefer" one over the other, in this circumstance, does not convey much useful information.

[Nadya]

Hell, I'd "prefer" to eat at Citronelle too, who wouldn't. I'd also "prefer" to dine at some of the other 4-star places like CityZen and Maestro. However, Citronelle a smaller restaurant, you have to book a table far in advance and the price level is not conducive to once-a-week visits. Central is a much larger establishment, you can get a table on short notice and the price level conducive to more frequent visits. To say that you "prefer" one over the other, in this circumstance, does not convey much useful information.

After careful consideration, I concur. Actually, not after one second of consideration. How do you prefer one to the other? They are two totally different experiences. Dining at Citronelle is a major production that requires planning, deliberation, hours of grooming and selecting the right shoes, and weeks of fasting thereafter to repair the bottom line and the waist line. Dining at Central, well, you can pop in in your skankiest jeans, eat a damn good burger at the bar and bugger off, all in under an hour. I can see doing it regularly, mostly in the mirror, as I ate and drank at Central three times over the last two weeks. I wouldn't want to have a full Citronelle dinner every week, would you??