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Tiger Fork, Chef Irvin Van Oordt's Hong Kong-Style Cuisine in Blagden Alley


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[Charles, what is the correct adjective for Hong Kong, in terms of describing their cuisine? I have to admit, I'm stumped: Taiwanese, Cantonese, Shanghainese, but Hong Kongese?! That can't be (although it's in the Oxford English Dictionary to describe citizens - the cuisine is very thoroughly referenced here (*), but it doesn't leave me with a one-word adjective.) Hong Kongese sounds so clumsy to me, but so did Shanghainese at first, and now I'm getting used to it.

"Ask someone from England" is a perfectly valid response, by the way.]

(*) This is a good article, and worth spending some time on.

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Don, there's no widely-accepted standard adjective. "Hong Kongese" is used infrequently, but somewhat consistently, by the local English language press. You'll often find (and I prefer) the more natural "Hong Kong style".

"Cantonese" is often used to describe cuisine, but is inclusive of neighboring Guangdong province (romanized as "Canton") in mainland China. A dish like steamed whole fish with soy sauce and ginger could be fairly described as Cantonese. But something like deep fried French toast with peanut butter and condensed milk should be specifically associated with Hong Kong.

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The good doctor and I had dinner there tonight, and when he said "I think I'm going to order $FOOD next time," I knew we had a winner on our hands.

We walked in a little before 6 PM, and most of the seats at the bar were already taken. Many of the tables were still empty, though, and we were seated towards the back with a good view of the kitchen.  Seeing as how our last meal in this space was RJ Cooper's memorable 2015 New Year's Eve blowout, we were curious to see what had been done to Rogue 24's former digs.  Tiger Fork's done a great job of making the space its own. 

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Service was prompt and friendly, with waters poured and drink orders taken once we were seated.  We weren't in the mood for cocktails nor keen on wine, so we just stuck with beers.

We started with the Kowloon Buns, Cheung Fun, and Humble Plate of Chili Wontons, which came in quick succession.  The good doctor's plate was quickly cleared away and replaced with another when his Kowloon bun squirted out soy ginger dipping sauce, which was very attentive.  All the dishes were excellent, though I'd probably work through the rest of the starters on the menu before ordering the cheung fun again.   

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We went with the BBQ Platter for our main course, with Salt Fish & Prawn Fried Rice and Pea Shoots as side dishes.  My one photo of the fried rice was blurry, presumably because it was the one dish I couldn't wait to tear into and had eaten several bites before remembering to snap a pic.  The char siu was, as Charles Tsui noted, on point, though the good doctor was most impressed by the crispy pork belly.  The picked bean sprouts and chili sauces make for good contrasts with the meats, though the plain white rice was surprisingly dry.  The pea shoots were a fantastic side dish, and I didn't think they needed any of the homemade oyster sauce that accompanied the dish, though that did make for a tasty dipping sauce for the soya chicken.

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We had most of our mains boxed up so we could have room for dessert, which was the Bubble Waffle Matcha Ice Cream.  While delicious, the plating left a lot to be desired; it's served in a crumpled lunch sack, and if you put your spoon through the middle like yours truly, you have to scoop out the collapsed remains.  The GM who stopped by our table noted that they were trying to go for a "street food feel" with this dessert but agreed that form overrode function in the presentation.

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We'll definitely be back, especially for the dim sum brunch, and despite some minor quibbles with timing and service, Tiger Fork was an excellent dining experience.

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Just had an enjoyable dinner here tonight. A disclaimer of sorts - I grew up in Hong Kong, but don't consider myself an expert on the food. Of our 3 appetizers, the dan dan noodles, cheung fun and kowloon buns - the last were definitely our favorite. I should have heeded the above review and not bothered with the cheung fun - these are one of my all time fave dim sum dishes, so it had a lot of living up to do. I found them kind of bland and the noodle was too thick. The dan dan wasn't sauce-y or nutty enough and strayed too far from the authentic - give me a bowl from A&Js over this version any day. For our entree, we got the BBQ plate and thought it was very good - the pork belly had tooth-shatteringly crispy skin and the char siu had good flavor and char (ha, ha). The soy chicken was also very moist and flavorful. 

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Had a nice meal here yesterday and some medicinal cocktails. 

1. Cheung fun - shrimp rolled dumpling thingie, so beautiful to look at it, and tasty. The sauce is awesome.

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2. Humble chili wontons - meat a little chewy, but dumpling skin was top notch

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3. Whole dourade - they filet it, and then sauce it, and then put it back in the fish. Tasty!

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I got the pisco drink, Peruvian Chef In A Chinese Kitchen, that was refreshing, almost like a green juice.

Kind of $$$, but unique and beautiful dishes. It was over a $100 for me and the cardiologist.

-S

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So they have ruined Beef Chow Fun for me at all the other restaurants.  Wow!  Four of us ate here, ordered a majority of the entrees and desserts.  We went easy on the drinking, maybe 2 rounds each, including $6 San Migs.  With tax and tip, $75/head.  Exceeded expectations.  

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This is not going to be a particularly helpful review, because I don't remember the details, but: My girlfriend and I ate here soon after it opened, and we really enjoyed the five or six things we had.  Then we went back a month or so later, ordered some of the same dishes and some different ones, and were very disappointed in almost everything we ate.  The second visit, I felt like the seasoning was off in a lot of the dishes, to the point of being aggressively oversalted, so perhaps it was just a bad day in the kitchen.  (I did let someone know about the seasoning issue.)  In any event, after the second visit we haven't been in a hurry to go back, so I'm glad to hear that it seems to have regained whatever mojo it might have lost.

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On 8/8/2017 at 1:15 PM, Ericandblueboy said:

Menu is finally online.  Looking at it, I can't think of any reason why I'd eat there.  It certainly isn't like any restaurant I ate at in Hong Kong.  It's basically a mishmash of different Chinese cuisines.  In my mind, a messy menu can only mean one thing....

Do note the topmost posts above - Charles is a Hong Kong native.

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Tiger Fork has to be appreciated in-context. Is their BBQ, for example, better than what I've had at the best specialist shops in HK? No way. But I don't really expect a $1.50 char siu rice box joint to pop up on Blagden Alley anytime soon. As I wrote above, if this place opened in Vancouver, it wouldn't merit much attention. But it's in DC, and there's nothing else quite like it right now. 

I do appreciate authenticity and focus. But I also understand why dilution may be necessary to succeed in a given market. 10 years ago, you couldn't really get a proper bowl of ramen here. Then, Toki Underground opened with a pretty non-traditional take on the dish (which they were frank about). But it did open a lot of people's eyes to the idea of ramen that didn't come in a plastic bag, a menu focused on it, and a new price point for it. Now, we have a diverse selection of ramen-only shops, like Ren's and Daikaya, which could hold their own in Japan. But, unlike NYC, we don't have dedicated soba or udon restaurants, so there continues to be room for the market to evolve (mature).

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12 minutes ago, Charles Tsui said:

Tiger Fork has to be appreciated in-context. Is their BBQ, for example, better than what I've had at the best specialist shops in HK? No way. But I don't really expect a $1.50 char siu rice box joint to pop up on Blagden Alley anytime soon. As I wrote above, if this place opened in Vancouver, it wouldn't merit much attention. But it's in DC, and there's nothing else quite like it right now. 

I do appreciate authenticity and focus. But I also understand why dilution may be necessary to succeed in a given market. 10 years ago, you couldn't really get a proper bowl of ramen here. Then, Toki Underground opened with a pretty non-traditional take on the dish (which they were frank about). But it did open a lot of people's eyes to the idea of ramen that didn't come in a plastic bag, a menu focused on it, and a new price point for it. Now, we have a diverse selection of ramen-only shops, like Ren's and Daikaya, which could hold their own in Japan. But, unlike NYC, we don't have dedicated soba or udon restaurants, so there continues to be room for the market to evolve (mature).

Tried Chi-Ko yet?  Hardly "authentic," and the name is cringeworthy; but I was very pleasantly surprised by my meal there last night.

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28 minutes ago, Charles Tsui said:

Tiger Fork has to be appreciated in-context. Is their BBQ, for example, better than what I've had at the best specialist shops in HK? No way. But I don't really expect a $1.50 char siu rice box joint to pop up on Blagden Alley anytime soon. As I wrote above, if this place opened in Vancouver, it wouldn't merit much attention. But it's in DC, and there's nothing else quite like it right now. 

I do appreciate authenticity and focus. But I also understand why dilution may be necessary to succeed in a given market. 10 years ago, you couldn't really get a proper bowl of ramen here. Then, Toki Underground opened with a pretty non-traditional take on the dish (which they were frank about). But it did open a lot of people's eyes to the idea of ramen that didn't come in a plastic bag, a menu focused on it, and a new price point for it. Now, we have a diverse selection of ramen-only shops, like Ren's and Daikaya, which could hold their own in Japan. But, unlike NYC, we don't have dedicated soba or udon restaurants, so there continues to be room for the market to evolve (mature).

We are getting there... other "missing" places - yakitori shop, biryani house, true izakaya. Can't believe no Udon here. Marukame in HNL should franchise, already. Would kill it.

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1 hour ago, Simul Parikh said:

We are getting there... other "missing" places - yakitori shop, biryani house, true izakaya. Can't believe no Udon here. Marukame in HNL should franchise, already. Would kill it.

Tempura houses (not sure if this list is accurate).

I haven't been to Japan, but I've been to Seattle and Vancouver multiple times - Seki and Daikaya sure seem every bit as authentic as what's out there; others I've been to, not so much.

Still, pick any country in the world, other than 2-3 that we have good representation in, and you'll have even bigger problems. The few West African restaurants we have, for example, are a bunch of countries lumped together - it's largely the same way with Central and South America. Really, it's everywhere - and Washington, DC is ahead of the vast majority of the United States.

I've kind of accepted that if you want the real deal, you have to travel - how many Peruvian Pollo a la Brasa restaurants do you see in France, for example (actually, how much spicy food do you see in France?) Ask anyone from Peru about our ceviche, and they'll roll their eyes. Shanghai, seafood. France, cheese. It goes on-and-on.

I know we're supposed to be a melting pot, but we're also a bunch of cowboys. Besides, when everything melts together, you can't even tell what it is.

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Nah... Daikaya is to izakaya as to Jaleo is to a Madrid tapas bar. The ones in Japan are casual hangouts where a salaryman and his buddies go to after work for beer and snacks. No craft cocktails, fancy presentations of food, reservations, or dressing up. Food might be somewhat similar, but here it's just another fancy restaurant... I wonder why we can't do tapas right, either. It's always super fancy, sit down, reservations, a menu, and a "scene'. It would be nice if Solly's gave a small slider or some fries or whatever with each drink, but it's not really our culture. 

You're right.. gotta travel. So sad, haven't left the country since December 2016. Living through everyone on this board... 

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4 minutes ago, Simul Parikh said:

Nah... Daikaya is to izakaya as to Jaleo is to a Madrid tapas bar.

Wow, okay, that says all I need to know. It's culture as much as quality, I guess. 

That's not a bad thing though - gives you something to look forward to when you travel.

Hell, think of all the regional cuisines in India. I've heard Goa (just Goa) is *amazing*.

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11 hours ago, DonRocks said:

Wow, okay, that says all I need to know. It's culture as much as quality, I guess. 

That's not a bad thing though - gives you something to look forward to when you travel.

Hell, think of all the regional cuisines in India. I've heard Goa (just Goa) is *amazing*.

Meh, Goa is overrun by lager louts. But seriously, on our recent trip to Delhi (and Jaipur and Agra) the butter naan alone was worthy the trip.  Fantastic.  

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On 8/11/2017 at 9:18 AM, Charles Tsui said:

10 years ago, you couldn't really get a proper bowl of ramen here. Then, Toki Underground opened with a pretty non-traditional take on the dish (which they were frank about). But it did open a lot of people's eyes to the idea of ramen that didn't come in a plastic bag, a menu focused on it, and a new price point for it. Now, we have a diverse selection of ramen-only shops, like Ren's and Daikaya,

Not to disparage what you're saying, but to be fair, Ren's predates Toki by about two years.

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On 8/11/2017 at 10:28 PM, Pool Boy said:

Truer words could not be spoken!

Hear, hear!  I would do many things for some creditable bonbochi, bonjiri, or nonkatsu in this city. 

On 8/11/2017 at 10:58 PM, Tweaked said:

Meh, Goa is overrun by lager louts. But seriously, on our recent trip to Delhi (and Jaipur and Agra) the butter naan alone was worthy the trip.  Fantastic.  

Non-authentic but delicious pro tip: hot butter naan goes EXTREMELY well with vanilla ice cream.  I discovered that in Jodhpur.  (My next dream destination in India is Kerala.  Virtually everyone we talked to while we were over there said it's incredible.)

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I was in NJ visiting my bro, who lives about 40 miles west of NYC.  The local Chinese restaurant scene changes constantly, just like here.  We went to the most well known  Cantonese restaurant that advertises many seafood dishes and ordered a Typhoon Shelter Crab and it came out all wrong.  It was breaded and deep fried!  The crab wasn't cracked and the meat had no seasoning.  The waiter proudly proclaimed it was 2.7 lbs, meaning it's a big shitty expensive crab.  I want just one good Cantonese seafood joint!  I think I have to go to Toronto for decent Chinese seafood.

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On 9/4/2017 at 11:14 PM, Ericandblueboy said:

I was in NJ visiting my bro, who lives about 40 miles west of NYC.  The local Chinese restaurant scene changes constantly, just like here.  We went to the most well known  Cantonese restaurant that advertises many seafood dishes and ordered a Typhoon Shelter Crab and it came out all wrong.  It was breaded and deep fried!  The crab wasn't cracked and the meat had no seasoning.  The waiter proudly proclaimed it was 2.7 lbs, meaning it's a big shitty expensive crab.  I want just one good Cantonese seafood joint!  I think I have to go to Toronto for decent Chinese seafood.

Or Vancouver.

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Went to Tiger Fork this weekend. Surprised how quickly it filled up so early (we were there at 5:30). It gets noisy. The communal tables have lousy bench seating. But the cocktails were delicious, the wines generally well priced and the food, overall quite good (though I think they took liberties on the spiciness of the food - Cantonese is typically pretty mild, this was not super spicy but some of the dishes were spicier than I expected).

Overall, quite a nice meal. Pictures coming soon.

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On 3/9/2018 at 9:41 PM, Ericandblueboy said:

http://www.tigerforkdc.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/TF2018_DinnerMENU_R45.pdf

Looking at the most recent menu doesn't reveal anything exciting.  Are people still going here?

Brunch menu looks even less appetizing http://www.tigerforkdc.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/TF2017_BrunchMENU_R18_single-for-Niki.pdf

How good would beef chow fun have to be to be worth $19?

 

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3 hours ago, Ericandblueboy said:

Well, why are people willing to pay $19 at Tiger Fork for chow fun but not at an authentic Chinese restaurant?  

Did you hear Kojo Nnamdi's broadcast today? This sort-of relates to that.

"Food Criticism in D.C. Has a Diversity Problem" on thekojonnamdishow.org

Without having had Tiger Fork's Chow Fun, but having had numerous gloppy renditions at restaurants such as Full Kee in Chinatown: "Lack of gratuitous and/or rancid oil" might be a reason - I'm not saying it's right, or wrong; merely that it might be a reason, or at least a hopeful perception.

Screenshot 2019-11-27 at 20.51.37.png

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On 11/26/2019 at 3:30 PM, Bob Wells said:

How good would beef chow fun have to be to be worth $19?

20 hours ago, Jeff Heineman said:

Seems to be the same price (or actually cheaper!) as the noodles and meat at Sfoglina https://sfoglinapasta.com/all-day-menu.

The difference between $19 chow fun at Tiger Fork and the $12 chow fun you can get in Chinatown is the same difference between the $11 per person pasta you can get at Buca di Beppo and the $19 plate of pasta at Sfoglina. 

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On 11/28/2019 at 10:23 AM, eatruneat said:

The difference between $19 chow fun at Tiger Fork and the $12 chow fun you can get in Chinatown is the same difference between the $11 per person pasta you can get at Buca di Beppo and the $19 plate of pasta at Sfoglina. 

I had a Thai curry at a high end, higly rated restaurant with a french trained chef. The dish wasn't as good on any level as my favorite Thai restaurants such as Thai Square or Bangkok 54 {at the time.} 

I have gone to strip Mexican where the mole, $12 an order, was better than any high end Mexican I have had, but the chicken itself was poor supermarket quality over cooked and poorly handled.

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On 11/28/2019 at 10:23 AM, eatruneat said:

The difference between $19 chow fun at Tiger Fork and the $12 chow fun you can get in Chinatown is the same difference between the $11 per person pasta you can get at Buca di Beppo and the $19 plate of pasta at Sfoglina. 

Thanks, I'll take your word for it since I've never been to Buca di Beppo and likely never will. 

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We went once and enjoyed it. We were there on the early side since, as I recall, they do not take reservations. By the time we left, the place was deafening due to the place being packed. I was glad to get out of there so I could hear again. The food  was good, but the loudness does not have me racing back there to try it again.

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