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Hawthorn - Elegant dining in Kew

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Well, I feel remiss if I don't post a review of this place after seeing @DonRocks commenting on Andy Hayler's Review!

Hawthorn opened in late January 2023 in Kew, which lies just north of Richmond, just past the western edge of London proper.  The owners worked at its predecessor restaurant, The Glasshouse, and its sister restaurant, La Trompette, in nearby Chiswick.  

The menu is three course prix fixe and was £65 for dinner when I went about a month after opening.  Despite the short time open, the service was quite strong - this is clearly an experienced team that's shooting for a high end experience.

We started with two amuse bouche.  The first was a miniature arancini that was, without a doubt, the best one I've ever had.  We were so enamoured of these that I forget what the second one was and my daughter begged for a second round, which the chef obliged her in providing.

Appetizers were quite strong.  I had white onion velouté with aged gruyere rarebit gougéres, pickled pear, three cornered leek oil.  Great first course that wasn't too heavy but still brought quite a bit of intensity, particularly when I turned to the gougeres right after a spoonful.  Kids both went for chalk stream trout sashimi, which came with puffed black rice, white sesame and yuzu dressing, pickled turnip and horseradish granita.  Neither loved the turnip, but both devoured everything else.


Roasted cep and wild garlic Spätzle: Perigord truffle emulsion, glazed globe artichoke, early foraged leaves

Don't be fooled by the picture, the spaetzle were underneath. I would have preferred a bit more spaetzle relative to artichokes, but still a quite strong dish.


Roast skate wing: Smoked creamed potato, caramelised cauliflower, spinach, semi dried grape and caper beurre noisette, brown shrimp jus gras

No picture - my daughter took it and forgot to send to me.  She really enjoyed this, never having had skate.  

Stuffed Suffolk poussin: Smoked bacon dauphine, malt mustard glazed legs, white asparagus and shitake mushrooms

My son loved this dish - except for the asparagus, but that's a him thing as they were well cooked and tasty (if you like white asparagus).


Desserts were also quite strong.  Kids both had the salted caramel tart as well as some of my cheese plate (when do your children stop eating your food????).  Wine pairing was good, although we were coming off of a long feasting weekend in Portugal, so we kept it to a glass apiece.

Overall, I'd say this is a place that's got solid Michelin potential if they keep things up and bring in some new dishes as the seasons change. If you're visiting Kew Gardens or doing the Ted Lasso tour in Richmond, I'd put it among my recommendations if you're looking for a higher end place.

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