Koffeteria, Vanarin Kuch's Cambodian-inspired bakery in EaDo

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Beef pho kolache. Those three words sum up Koffeteria bakery -- separate immigrant foods that have become part of Houston's culinary identity, blended together into a signature dish, coming from a chef whose fusion is inspired by his own Cambodian first-gen background.

Located in the gentrifying and cost-rising East Downtown, Koffeteria opened in 2019 by pastry chef-owner Vanarin Kuch, and has been creating those kinds of magical combinations ever since.

A Cambodian Caprese Danish ($7) was a savory bomb, in a good way, baked to a buttery fluffiness and filled with twists on the classic red-white-and-green: pesto made with Khmer herbs, a roasted tomato topped with a sweet and sour marinara, and of course, mozzarella. Familiar, different, complex.

Pastry twists on elote are fairly common across Texas, but their Cambodian elote cornbread ($5) stood out -- the lightest cornbread muffin, accentuated with chive, chili oil and a touch of coconut. Not too much of anything and another superb flavor blend.

Before you start to think that Koffeteria doesn't have a proper sweet tooth, I demand that you order their pistachio baklava croissant ($8) on any inaugural visit. An absolute laminated masterpiece, with a sheen of lemon honey and a pistachio crumble topping in every bite. Perfect.

The mango sticky rice Danish ($7) is perhaps their most recognizable pastry. I respect its existence even though it is not for me; I don't think a Danish is the best vehicle for the extra starch and heaviness of mango. Many disagree. If none of the above appealed to you, there was also a delectable almond and peach Danish, as well-executed as you are going to find in the state.

Koffeteria is the kind of place that cannot be created in a restaurant group think-tank. It had to be born out of authentic experiences. It is exactly the kind of place that is distinctly Houston.

 

Koffeteria also serves a number of breakfast dishes in addition to pastries. The fabulous pistachio baklava croissant (above) and famous mango sticky rice danish (below).

 

Delightful pear Danish. Cambodian Caprese Danish and elote cornbread.