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NY Mag Article: Are Necks the New Cheeks


cucas87

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New York magazine discusses restaurants' increasing use of beef and lamb necks in dishes. I've posted the link here as well as an excerpt below.

"They Feel Good About Their Necks:An unfamiliar cut is showing up on local menus, prompting the question: Is neck the new cheek?

* By Robin Raisfeld & Rob Patronite

In their constant quest to utilize every part of the beast—and to keep food costs down—chefs have historically turned their creative attention to the offcuts, the nasty bits, the calf’s brains and pig’s feet and everything in between. Thanks to scrap-meat enthusiasts like Mario Batali and London’s Fergus Henderson, no truly sophisticated modern diner would look askance at an oxtail or a duck tongue these days. Recently, though, an upstart animal part has been making its debut on menus around town. The neck, in all its bony, low-yield, tough but flavorful glory, seems made for the kind of long, slow cooking needed to extract the most flavor from the hardest-working muscles. Gordon Ramsay has long been a fan and serves a lamb cutlet with braised neck at his posh London Bar. Maremma’s Cesare Casella offers an occasional special of peposo, a Tuscan stew made with beef neck. . ."

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CGR

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