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Cafe du Parc, in the Willard Hotel - Chef Serge Devesa from Marseilles In Charge of Willard's French-American Cafe


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Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but how is monkfish tail prepared and served?

Your friendly former fish-monger here. The tail of the monkfish is the only part of the fish that is eaten. The monkfish is one ugly fish. Sometimes fish markets will display the whole fish just to freak out the customers--it has a huge, gaping mouth and a wide flat head with tiny eyes. The skin is peeled off of the tail, and the long narrow filets are sectioned away from the internal skeletal structure. When it is portioned for cooking in a restaurant, slices are cut across the tail filet, usually at an angle for a bigger piece, which accounts for the triangular shape JParrott described. It is often chunked--cut straight across the filet-- for cooking in fish stews. It has a firm, slightly chewy texture and a rich flavor--the reason it is sometimes referred to as "poor man's lobster." It is a very primitive animal, and doesn't have scales, per se. Like shark and swordfish, it is one of the sea animals that is not "kosher"-- to be kosher, a fish must have fins and scales.

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I didn't know what to expect either, but it pretty much looked like a tail -- a thick triangular piece of fish. It was roasted and served with a rich pinot noir and veal sauce.
Those of us who watched Julia Child's episode on monkfish know that the tail is the only edible part of that particular fish. It is an extremely UGLY creature which is mostly mouth. Which is why one doesn't usually find the whole fish available. Monkfish has been called the "Poor Man's Lobster." I'm not sure I would go there, but I am happy to not have to deal with a lot of difficulty in buying and preparing this particular specie of fish.
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Those of us who watched Julia Child's episode on monkfish know that the tail is the only edible part of that particular fish. It is an extremely UGLY creature which is mostly mouth. Which is why one doesn't usually find the whole fish available. Monkfish has been called the "Poor Man's Lobster." I'm not sure I would go there, but I am happy to not have to deal with a lot of difficulty in buying and preparing this particular specie of fish.

The liver and cheeks are also eaten. In Venice, the cheeks are served ina spicy tomato sauce on white polenta and in Japant he liver is Ankimo. The liver often weighs more thanthe filets from the tail.

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A last minute decision to meet up with an old friend for dinner downtown is hard to accomodate on a Friday night when the idea of standing and waiting at a bar has no appeal whatsoever. But, thankfully, a perfect little cafe arrived a few weeks ago, so we were off to Cafe du Parc. I could not have made a better decision!

I ordered the onion soup and the mussels, Jlock ordered the monkfish, and our friends ordered the the cod and the stuffed tomatoes. All were reportedly great, although I only tried my onion soup and mussels. The onion soup was (like the bowl I had last week) rich, with a strong thyme flavor and tons of flavorful, melted cheese. The mussels were among the plumpest that I have ever had. We were served gourgeres to start, and they too were lovely (although I don't believe I have ever had one that I have not liked). Everyone enjoyed their wines by the glass although I couldn't even guess what they ordered as I am living without (somehow).

Even so, the food and drink was not what left me so impressed; it was the extremely thoughtful service. It had been quite a while since we had met up, so time flew and only when I returned home did I realize that we had been there for three and a half hours. The cafe was not full at any point, and there were still several other tables when we left (including a particularly boorish one that was dealt with perfectly in our opinion), so I did not feel too guilty about occupying such good real estate for so long, but in retrospect, we were waited on with perfect precision. We were allowed to linger and never even got the hint of annoyance even when none of us ordered dessert. We were neither ignored nor disturbed. An absolute perfect read of the table.

Most impressive, however, was the response to my own ordering faux pas. I really wanted the soup, but nobody else ordered an appetizer at all. Generally, I would bow to the whim of the table and just skip it, but hell no. I wanted my soup! I don't get wine, so there was no way I was not getting soup! So, I ordered it knowing perfectly well that everyone else would just have to wait for me to eat it. But, that didn't happen. Instead, they were all served small cups of gazpacho so that they would not be left staring at my soup. What a thoughtful gesture for such a casual establishment!

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I dined at Café du Parc for the first time last night, and I will certainly return. Food: excellent. Service: excellent, and very French. I started with the onion soup, which may well have been the best I've ever had anywhere. Then the "poitrine de cochon croustillante", which was wonderful, although the "croustillante" part was so crisp it was difficult to cut even with the steak knife they provided. The pommes de terre boulangère were a lovely accompaniment. The place is surprisingly not noisy, given all the hard surfaces (although it also wasn't crowded; with a full house it might get pretty noisy). Only complaint: The bottle of rosé came to the table at room temperature.

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Had an excellent meal last weekend. The restaurant was fairly dead when we arrived (though we had an early dinner) but filled up as the evening progressed. The free valet parking is a huge plus - I was afraid we would have to drop $25 to park at the Willard, but parking turned out to be free.

The servers were very friendly. Our server was from France and since it was pretty empty, we talked a while with her about France.

The wine list had some good French wines and wasn't terribly overpriced in my mind. It had a few selections in every price range.

As for the food, we were first served some delicious baguettes and butter. This bread was outstanding. The waitress told us it was baked about an hour ago and is all made in house. For appetizers, I had the Onion Soup. The onion soup had a rich broth and more of the delicious baguette soaking in the broth. It is probably on par with the onion soup at Central and easily one of the top two in town. My wife had the Asparagus salad with poached egg for an appetizer. The egg was perfectly poached and the asparagus were very tender. The salad was very good. She cleaned her plate. As for mains, I had the Bouchee ala Reine which was good. The veal and mushrooms were extremely tender. The small gnocchi were very tender and flavorful as well. The sauce on the dish was light but a little bland. It could have used something like some nice herbs in it to add some flavor. I probably wouldn't order it again. For her main, my wife ordered the mussels. If you like mussels, I highly recommend ordering them here. They were fantastic. They were extremely plump, the biggest i've seen in town, and the broth was very flavorful. They served a huge portion which is enough for two to share (had to be over 3lbs of them). We attempted to eat all of them but couldn't finish. For desert we ordered the Profiteroles. They were very good. The ice cream was rich and had a nice vanilla flavor. The chocolate sauce was very good and a little bitter which is how I prefer my chocolate.

Overall, it was about $100 including tip for the meal. I thought it was a pretty good value for the quality and portions given. We'll both be back.

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We had a satisfying meal here last night. It's quite a good value, especially in that location. We sat upstairs, with a nice view of PA Ave. Service was friendly and helpful, and our waiter was quite charming.

My husband got the salad with asparagus and poached egg, which I ended up sharing, since I had intended to order a salad but forgot :blink: . It was excellent. For my main course, I got one of the specialties: braised veal and chicken gnocchi in a pastry crust (Bouchee a la Reine). I thought it was delicious, kind of a pot pie. I was also having a craving for the carrots and ordered them as a side. (Only the regular entrees come with a side included in the price, and the waiter made sure to explain that there would be an extra charge). It seems an odd item to be raving over, but those were some fabulous carrots. I scattered them around the pastry and veal on my plate. They added a little extra color and flavor to the dish.

My husband got the entrecote, which he thought was a bit tough. He liked the bearnaise that came with it. The fries were also very good. I got some of those, and my husband got some carrots. My husband ended up finishing the last of my pastry--so delicious and flaky.

We each got a glass of wine, and they brought us nice sturdy tumblers of ice water when we asked for water. We were too full for dessert, but the dessert menu looked very appealing.

If I had remembered to order the salad I'd been eyeing, I would have been too full to finish the meal. Of course, I guess I didn't have to start out with all that bread and butter ;) . Though it was totally my fault, our waiter was very apologetic that he had not asked me specifically if I had wanted a first course.

I'll be going back to try other items on the menu, not to mention breakfast and lunch.

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We took my parents here yesterday for Father's day breakfast, and it was most excellent. There's a good choice of a la carte dishes, including impressive looking eggs benedict, various omelettes, crepes, etc., or the buffet. Gotta love a buffet that includes charcuterie, blintzes, and really good pastries along with the typical eggs/bacon/sausage/potatoes/waffles (along with the opportunity to watch the narrowly avoided Gallic punch-up in the kitchen. ;) )

I thought the price ($21.95) was eminently reasonable given the quality of the food - and, most importantly, my dad loved it.

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Has anyone been here recently? This thread has a lot of favorable reviews, but none from the past month. I'm hoping they are still firing on all cylinders.

It just got 2 1/2 stars from Tom. I had breakfast here a couple of weeks ago, and it was pretty bad. However, I have always enjoyed the food at dinner. About a month ago I had the veal dish that was very good. From Tom's review, I suspect they knew who is was, as it appears that he got better service than I ever did. ;)

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It just got 2 1/2 stars from Tom. I had breakfast here a couple of weeks ago, and it was pretty bad. However, I have always enjoyed the food at dinner. About a month ago I had the veal dish that was very good. From Tom's review, I suspect they knew who is was, as it appears that he got better service than I ever did. ;)

Thanks! I hadn't seen Tom's review. He's recently foiled me by dropping reviews of Beck & Majestic just before I was getting ready to try them! Hopefully I'll beat the masses this time by hitting CdP the night before he's out in print.

ETA

This place is seriously overrated.
- or maybe not
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I went last Saturday and had a great meal and the service provided by Carolyn was fantastic. The pate I had as an appetizer was extremely well made, and I loved the bonus of having some lovely foie gras in the center of a course country pate. My wife loved her salad and from the one leaf I tried I really liked the dressing. For entree's the veal cutlet was a delight. It was pounded thin covered in flavorful breadcrumbs and fried in butter, glorious butter. My one issue is that they served it with a rindless piece of lemon on top, I would have preferred to have a less attractive wedge or lemon I could have used to add a little needed acid to the dish. But that was easy to take care of with the addition of some of the cabers provided with the dish (it was also served with chopped egg white, egg yolk, and anchovies). My wife's pork breast saus vide was spectacular. It was a large hunk of tender pork that had been perfectly browned to a blessedly crispness.

The desert selection was a bit of a mine field. The lemon tart that my wife ordered was rich, creamy, with just the right amount of tartness. The crust overflowed with butter flavor. It was a great way to end her meal. On the other hand, my apricot panna cotta topped with homemade crumble was bland and rather dispiriting. The crumble was too large and dry, and did not have much flavor. All-in-all it was very far from overrated, and the meal and the service on both of my visits have been well above par.

On a beautiful night (like last Saturday) I cannot think of a better place to dine outdoors. The road in front of the hotel does not get much traffic keeping the noise to a pleasant level - save for those few times some crapweseal decides to drive by and share an uninspired baseline with everyone along the block.

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Awesome, awesome importer.

Interesting that the Seve d'Automne is listed under sweet wines. Presumably the price-appropriate sweet bottling for CdP is the "Ballet d'Octobre"?

To answer that question. I had a great mentor Mark Slater. Who taught me a lot about good wines and good purveyors. So I adopted his format. blink.gif

Domaine Cauhape Juraní§on Sec Seve d'Automne Vieilles Vignes 2003: A superb nose, fresh but showing a slightly more honeyed element than the two Chant des Vignes cuvées. Dry palate, yet weighty and textured, with plenty of style and grip. Nettly, honey-tinged character. Very impressive. Domaine Cauhape If there are any wines that have made an impression on me in the last year, they can be found at Domaine Cauhape. Proprietor Henri Ramonteu turns out a range of wines made from the local Petit and Gros Manseng, both dry and sweet, that rival any dry or sweet wine produced in France today. The wines have a precision, a balance, and a focus of pure flavour unlike any others I have encountered from the South-West. Petit Manseng is Jurancon's secret weapon; as at other domaines, this is the variety responsible for the greatest sweet wines, and Domaine Cauhape is no exception. There is one dry wine, Noblesse, but it is the sweet cuvées, made from grapes harvested first in October and then in stages throughout Autumn and possibly through to January the following year, that really set Domaine Cauhape apart. First harvests, in early November, provide the raw materials for Symphonie Novembre; yields are 30-35 hl/ha, vinification is in new and two year-old oak, followed by nine months in oak and then six months in tank before bottling. The Noblesse du Temps is the product of December's harvest, and if I were running the domaine would be called something more logical such as L'Expression Decembre, but then the wines probably wouldn't be so good, so Noblesse du Temps it is. With an extra month of hang-time these late harvested grapes are picked at just 20 hl/ha, fermented in new oak and then spend up to eighteen months in barrel. The result can be intense, sweet and smoky, a beautiful example of the oak-influenced vendange tardive style. But this is not the pinnacle of achievement at Cauhape.
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On a night like last night, with clear skies and temperatures in the 70's on a July night, you would figure that the outdoor seating at Cafe du Parc would be packed, wouldn't you? Lucky for us, there was a table open, but I was shocked that there were so many free. A bit over half were taken when we sat down at 7:00 and there were only a few tables taken inside when I walked around to see the place. Hopefully they aren't having a hard time filling up the seats.

Anyway, we started with a glass of blanc de blanc and rose. The sparkling was much better than the rose, the rose didn't seem to have any real flavor, but they both were refreshing to start off our meal. Appetizers included the petits plats and a pork belly terrine of some sort. The petits plats was the clear winner here, great poached egg, wonderful sardines and a steller tomato confit. The terrine was OK, it just needed a bit more flavor, a bit more creaminess. We split the sous-vide pork and pommes frites, both easily the best part of the meal. I like the fries at Poste and Beck better, but these were a solid number three. The pork was just great, something that people should learn to love and get over their fear of fat. The lemon tart was awesome for dessert, the profiteroles pretty much sucked. How do you have a dessert with no flavor when it has pastry, ice cream and chocolate!? Oh yeah, we had a good bottle of wine with dinner, reasonably priced list, pretty good selection, but 100% French, which I really don't prefer.

Overall, the food was good, not great. They know how to poach and egg and make fries, but dishes at a place like this should not fall flat, ever. I would definitely go back there to eat again, but there were some service issues that caused concern for me...

1. We sat for 10 minutes before someone even acknowledged us. This is never acceptable, especially when there is not a full house. One of the hostesses (they had about 10 of them running around) apologized, so we took it in stride.

2. We got our glasses of wine and appetizers well before we got any water. We asked for water about 5 times and didn't get it until we were very forceful about it. Not quite sure why it is so hard to get water sometimes.

3. When I ordered the bottle of wine, which was $43, the waitress suggested another bottle of wine that was in the $70's. I asked her if the $43 bottle was bad and she said that she had never tried it, but the one in the $70's was great. We stuck with the $43 bottle and liked it a lot. Here is the deal...if you can offer me a bottle of wine that is marginally more expensive and explain to me why it is a better bottle, that is fine with me. But, if you offer me a bottle that is 75% more expensive and have no idea why you are doing so, you should keep your comments to yourself.

So, I was a bit underwhelmed by the service. The prices and food will get me to come back, but not for long if little service snags occur over and over again.

PS: The next time I go to a nice French bistro and get old bread and individually wrapped Land o' Lakes butter, I am going to through a fit! Is it really that hard to get good bread and butter these days!? Is there a shortage that I don't know about?

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On a night like last night, with clear skies and temperatures in the 70's on a July night, you would figure that the outdoor seating at Cafe du Parc would be packed, wouldn't you? Lucky for us, there was a table open, but I was shocked that there were so many free. A bit over half were taken when we sat down at 7:00 and there were only a few tables taken inside when I walked around to see the place. Hopefully they aren't having a hard time filling up the seats.

At 9 PM, all outside tables seemed full, and I was turned away as a walk-in, grumble grumble. Related observation: Washington is dining later than it did just a couple of years ago (freelance column / blog alert!)

Cheers,

Rocks.

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At 9 PM, all outside tables seemed full, and I was turned away as a walk-in, grumble grumble. Related observation: Washington is dining later than it did just a couple of years ago (freelance column / blog alert!)

Cheers,

Rocks.

We never get partly sunny and 85 in mid-July! Until now! Thomas Jefferson would be proud.

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At 9 PM, all outside tables seemed full, and I was turned away as a walk-in, grumble grumble. Related observation: Washington is dining later than it did just a couple of years ago (freelance column / blog alert!)

Cheers,

Rocks.

You should have pulled up a chair at our table tongue.gif .

My experience on Saturday evening mirrored jiveturk21's to a certain extent. With a table of 7, many of the dishes on the menu were tried and I don't recall hearing complaints about any of the selections. I also enjoyed the petits plats - an interesting assortment of tastes and textures. The tartare and the jambon persillé were happily consumed by others in the party (I liked the shared bites that were offered - both dishes were large enough to share between 2 and even 3 people). Soups (onion and gazpacho - the 'soup of the season' apparently) were also reported to be good, although the youngest member of our party (8 y.o.) couldn't understand why on earth the gazpacho would be served cold laugh.gif . The standout appetizer though, was the special - flamekuche - a savory tart served on the thinnest of pastries (très, très fine) with onions, bacon, and cheese, topping what I believe was a bechamel.

I ordered the veal breast as my main, others enjoyed the sous vide pork belly, the cod, and the bouillabaise. The veal was very nice, tender, if a bit overpowered by the pesto filling. The cod was excellent, set off with a touch of balsamic, and the pork was tender and appropriately fatty wink.gif .

The tarte au citron was a very pleasant and light way to end the meal.

We also experienced some of the delays in being acknowledged, having water served/refilled, and placing orders. The friendly service provided by Caroline made these things seem minor in the grand scheme of things. The consumption of several mid-price bottles of Sancerre drove the per person cost up to nearly $90 (pre-tip). With a little restraint, it would certainly be possible to have a very reasonably priced meal, perhaps made up only of starters or small plates or with a shared entree (portions are generous). Saturday night was a near perfect evening and Cafe du Parc was a great place to enjoy it (as well as the good food and good company). Just don't go expecting service that is fast or falling all over you - relax and enjoy!

ETA: Side dishes were very rich - mashed (pureed) potatoes were sinfully good - read: butter-laden - and green beans were slightly overcooked (limp) for my taste and also loaded with butter. The entrée special was sole meunière - $35 - not ordered at our table. It was appreciated that prices were provided for both of the specials during their description.

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My partner and I decided to try out Cafe du Parc for RW. Their Web site gave no clue as to what sort of menu they were offering for this week, so I was a bit disappointed to discover that for the special they only had two options for each course, with a recommended wine for each, slightly discounted from the regular by-the-glass price. But as we dug into our meals (we decided to each try a different option for each course), we were pleased to discover that despite the limited options, they didn't draw from the dregs of the menu for RW.

Bob started off with the housemade pate en croute, a large, plate-size slab that he declared the best he had ever had. For my starter I had the baby leek and crab salad with dijon vinaigrette--three leeks about four inches long apiece covered in the tangy, creamy vinaigrette with a chopped crabmeat salad between and topped with frisee--lots of wonderful flavors; my only complaint was that the leeks were somewhat resistant to the knife without sliding apart. For entrees, Bob had the seared cod with salad and mussels--a good-sized fillet, nicely browned, and a side plate of about eight smallish mussels in a mild sauce. I went for the signature sous-vide pork paired with a mini-casserole of green beans. I loved the crispy outer layer, but overall found the mix of meat and melted fat to be almost overwhelmingly rich. For dessert, I thought Bob's apricot panna cotta--a rather large glassful!--outshone my small fresh strawberry tart with housemade ice cream but both were fine. All in all, it was a good-sized, delicious meal, and a bargain at the RW price. In the end, the limited menu did not disappoint.

However, I have to agree with Todd Kliman that the interior of this place is nothing to write home about--we got placed at a two-top in the middle of the room to the left of the staircase, in direct view of the kitchen door. Not a horrible location per se, given the rest of the interior isn't much better, but I didn't get any sense of a room that is particularly enjoyable to spend time in. Of course, it didn't help that we were next to a pair of conventioners who didn't like anything they ate--they seemed to be totally grossed out by the sous-vide pork, and asked for their meals to be taken away (funny, they looked like they were overfamiliar with fatty pork products... :angry: ) But the staff seemed to handle them with total professionalism, so I left impressed by that. This is a nice addition to the downtown dining scene, but I hope the weather will permit us to go for an outdoors table next time.

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The patio at Café du Parc cannot be ignored during this splendid weekend we're having, in celebration of the autumnal equinox.

A 2005 Didier Desvignes Morgon "Les Charmes" ($40) is a wine that probably retails for closer to $20, but is worth every bit of $40 when sitting outside in this weather, the sun playing its annoying little game of bob-and-weave, first hiding behind the umbrellas, then peeking out and staring you in the eye. The wine list at Café du Parc remains outstanding, with well-chosen, inexpensive French wines in abundance, both by the glass and by the bottle.

If you're sitting around this Sunday afternoon, wondering what to do with yourself, then you must grab a book, perhaps something by Eudora Welty, and then head down to Café du Parc, pull up a chair underneath an umbrella, and revel in the glories of the best that life has to offer.

Cheers,
Rocks.

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Had lunch with a friend today on the patio. It was splendid. We shared the pate selection ($16) and each had a salad of crisp mesculen dressed lightly with a mild oil & vinegar dressing. I am not a charchurtie expert (notice spelling) but to me each of the items on the plate were delicious. Oddly though they served the entire tray with just two pieces of grilled bread and we had to ask for more bread... which was the yummy house baguette but the grilled bread would have been more special.

The iced tea deserves a special mention as it was unsweetened but did not need any sweetener. It was not an herb tea either. It was just the most perfect black ice tea I have ever had.

Looking forward to a conference next week at the Ronald Reagan Center as an excuse to grab some pastries!

edit: drats.... conference at the FTC not the RR center. Hmm... looking for excuses... also glad I had my cholesterol checked yesterday

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The iced tea deserves a special mention as it was unsweetened but did not need any sweetener. It was not an herb tea either. It was just the most perfect black ice tea I have ever had.
Thanks for that tip. This is such a hard thing to find, or it seems increasingly hard to find. I don't want want herbal tea. I don't want tea with fruits in it or sweeteners. I just want regular iced tea. I'll have to get there for this soon, as I suspect we'll be going from summer to winter in no time. :blink:
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Just had a very nice lunch at Cafe du Parc. The cod entrée came in a dieppoise with very deep flavor and creamy consistency, garnished with plump mussels and sautéd button mushrooms. The fish was perfectly cooked. My friend had the Monday special of roasted chicken with fries. It looked fantastic and he said it was "very French" (which I nearly always take as a good thing). The fries looked like they had been double fried (which I suppose would make them "very Belgian"). Service was a bit awkward at times, but with the heart in the right place. The FOH welcome was very professional. All in all a delightful experience that I am eager to repeat.

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Had a superb dinner here on Friday. This was my fourth time at Cafe du Parc and I can honestly say it is now churning out some of the best French cafe/bistro fare in town - After our meal I could see why the place was packed with francophiles. The prices are extremely reasonable, portions large and quality excellent.

I started with the onion soup which was superb as always. A nice light broth, loads of cheese. For mains, I ordered the mussels. A huge portion of the largest, juiciest, plumpest, freshest tasting mussels i've had had in a long time. These were the best mussels i've had at any DC area restaurant. All were perfectly cooked and no grit. No overcooked mussels hiding in my plate and the chef actually took the time to pick out unopened ones. The broth was excellent as well. If you like mussels, this is the place. The mussels came with a side - I chose the fries. They were good, crisp and very hot - exactly what I look for in a french fry. My wife ordered the roast chicken and the lentils side. The chicken was perfectly cooked, juicy and tender. It had a delightful crisp skin and a delicious light sauce. After spending a month this summer traveling throughout France eating roast chicken, I can honestly say it was comparable to some of the best I had in France. The lentils were also very nice, though the lentils are a bit heavy - loaded up with bacon and drippings and whatnot.

Service was fine. Glasses were refilled quickly, no complaints really. The fresh baguette they bake and serve with the meal is superb.

Overall, they seem to have kicked up the quality and flavor of the food a bit since my last visit and the food is now really good. Had an excellent experience again and highly recommend this place.

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The downstairs bar area at Cafe du Parc feels like you're having dinner in the bathroom at 2 Amys. If that doesn't bother you (the upstairs was full last night), it remains one of the best places in town to dine on Sunday evenings, with service until 10 PM.

My modus operandi is to pick, poke, and think about what I'm eating, but last night my table had everything arrive at once, so I didn't spend adequate time with the interesting Dodine de lapin ($9.95), a terrine of rabbit served with vegetables en escabeche and a really good piece of toasted bread. Relatively mild, it needs a pinch of salt, but that's not the case with the Pate en croute ($11.95) (sorry, no accents on this laptop) which is completely different than the last time I had it, but remains worth ordering. These two plates of cold, gelatinous meats were balanced by a Cocotte de legumes ($16.95), Cafe du Parc's primary vegetable offering, served in a bowl and not a cocotte which isn't a bad thing, because the olive oil, garlic confit, and sel de Guerande form a little pool, and a bread-swab will make you fall into a swoon. A plate of perfectly fine Pommes Frites added some more warmth and salt to the meal, which was rounded out by a 2006 Montirius Cotes du Rhone ($40), imported by Roy Cloud's company Vintage 59. The wine was on the menu as 2005, and came across initially as a bit harsh, but with about twenty minutes of aeration it opened up nicely.

I believe Christophe Marque was off last night, but as the old adage goes: Terrines never lie.

Actually, it's not an old adage; I just made it up, and sous chef Chambers looked very much in control on a busy Sunday evening - a fine little meal cobbled together at Cafe du Parc.

Cheers,

Rocks.

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Lovely meal at Cafe du Parc last night. Started with a delightful bowl of chilled pea soup that was brightened with basil chiffonade and a swirl of goat cheese mousse. Entree was roasted chicken with a light jus - one piece each of white and dark meat with crispy skin. Moist and flavorful. Dessert was an old throwback: peach melba. A crisp disk of meringue topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, accompanied by half a poached peach covered in raspberry sauce, sprinkled with toasted sliced almonds. I practically licked the plate clean.

ETA: Almost forgot to mention the best part of the meal: the gratin of potatoes that accompanied the chicken. Piping hot creamy potato goodness.

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Lunch outside at Cafe du Parc today, where I was almost decapitated by a wind-blown umbrella, but the food was good. Chilled pea purée garnished with whole peas, mint chiffonade, croutons and creme fraiche was delightful--fresh, green and glistening. The hanger steak arrived well beyond the requested medium rare and was undersalted but delicious nonetheless, smothered in diced shallots and a pan reduction with veal stock. It went surprisingly well with a Domaine Ott rosé, which was so pale it almost looked like a white wine. The frites were excellent, as was the service.

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The heat lamps were out last night on the patio of Cafe du Parc, where Christophe Marque is doing some excellent work. In addition to his regular menu, Marque is featuring French regional menus changing with each season - this autumn it's his native region of Aquitaine in Southwest France.

Piperade is a Basque dish very similar to ratatouille, and Marque's Oeuf Piperade ($9.95) is served with a sunnyside-up fried egg right in the middle. Accompanied by a little grilled baguette, this fine little plate of food begs for a bread dunking.

Don't order the Lotte Rotie a la Bordelaise, Tagliatelle ($24.95) unless you're drinking something from sommelier Caterina Abbruzzetti's fine selection of red wines (the little wine list on the back of the menu is excellent). A roasted monkfish in a red-wine sauce, served with a LOT of lardons, and a generous twisting of hand-cut noodles, this is a rich, full-bodied course that demands a rugged warhorse such as monkfish.

The Pate en Croute ($13.95) was its usual self, complete with a little foie gras surprise waiting to be discovered in the middle, and the Poulet Roti <<tout simplement>> is a simple roasted chicken, served herbed in its own juices in a Creuset - I suppose you could say it was Cocotte en Cocotte.

As area French Bistros go, I can't think of any I enjoy more than Cafe du Parc. I run down the list: Montmartre, Gaulois, Lepic, Francais, Les Halles, etc., and I think Cafe du Parc is serving the best, most interesting food in the area right now within this genre, although in all fairness there are several of the old guard that I haven't recently visited.

Go soon, and go right when they open at 6 PM (or better yet, for lunch), so you can enjoy what remains of the autumn sunlight on the patio.

Cheers,

Rocks.

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Had a another great meal at Cafe du Parc last night at a table in the downstairs bar area [sometimes prefer down there, as the upstairs dining room can be a little too chatty].

With carnivore on the mind, I split with my party the Assiette de cochonnailles [Pork rillettes, pork terrine, shaved French Ham, dry saucisson with cornichons and country toast]. And for the main a nicely crusted 4"x2"x1.5" block of Pork Belly with jus underneath and a small salad. Whoa that was quite a nice size of belly and well cooked. I prefer a little more richness with the jus but that's just pickpicking. Nice entree for $20.

Service by the bartender [and earlier drinks at the bar while waiting for my party] was quite pleasant and attentive. Oh, and the olives served at the bar can be quite addicting as well.

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We had yet another delightful meal last night at Cafe du Parc. I don't know how long they've been doing this, but you can now get three courses price fixe $34. My husband had the french onion soup, mussels and frites, and the baba au rum. I had the cauliflower soup, lobster consomme with poached shrimp (yes two soups, but it was a cold yucky night), and the macaron. Accompanied by a Stella and a glass of Sancerre respectively. Food was all very good, mussels and onion soup classic and delicious. But two things were a little annoying. I thought consomme was basically clear, the lobster consomme was very flavorful but not clear. Also, the chocolate macaron was served with canned mandarin oranges not tangerines as the menu said. I liked the tangerine sorbet, but I think simply infusing the ganache filling of the macaron with some orange rind would have done the trick. The mandarin ornage slices detracted from the dish.

The evening's entertainment were the people at the tables next to us. On our right we have a some clearly connected people gossiping about a well known polictical pundit and various new cabinet appointees with their "tax naivete". On our left, a tourist family talking about their ambitious site seeing plans and whose young son ordered the crab ravioli and substituted the bed of spinach it is normally served upon with mashed potatoes. I give credit to the waitress who did not flinch at the odd request and valiantly tried to find an acceptable substitute for tomato sauch for the other child's pasta.

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We had yet another delightful meal last night at Cafe du Parc. I don't know how long they've been doing this, but you can now get three courses price fixe $34.

I don't normally cut and paste press releases here (please take note, Cat!), but here's the full menu they're doing now:

CAFÉ DU PARC CELEBRATES NORMANDY REGIONAL INFLUENCES ON FRENCH BISTRO COOKING WITH DEDICATED MENU

Washington D.C., March 12, 2009 -- Continuing the celebration of its traditional French bistro roots, Café du Parc will feature the cuisine of the Normandy region starting March 21 and running through April 20. Prepared by rising star Chef Christophe Marque, with menu overseen by Michelin star Chef, Antoine Westermann, the Normandy specialties will be offered for lunch and dinner. A three-course region of Normandy prix fixe menu is $34.95, and items can be ordered í  la carte.

Located between the rugged landscapes of Brittany and the soft and quiet Picardy, Normandy is gracefully comprised of cliffs and coastline on the west and verdant meadows inland. During the Normandy celebration at Café du Parc, the palate discovers the pleasures of the farm: butter, cream, cheese and apples. Embark on a delicious journey through this festival of hearty and fresh flavors.

Appetizers

St Jacques í  la Honfleuraise $12.95

Pan seared scallops served in a calvados scented cream sauce

Maquereaux marinés, pomme de terre í  l'huile $8.95

Mackerel marinated with carrot and onion and served with confit potatoes

Huí®tres en gelée $13.95

Oysters served over artichoke puree and topped with a natural gelée.

Tartine de Livarot, carottes au cidre $9.95

Tartine of Livarot cheese served with carrots cooked in cider

Entrée

Lotte í  la Dieppoise $21.95

Steamed monkfish tossed in a creamy sauce, served with mushrooms, shrimp and mussels.

Tripe í  la mode de Caen $15.95

Famous recipe of braised beef tripe cooked in a calvados and cider jus with aromatic vegetables.

Fricassée de volaille au cidre, pommes rôies $20.95

Chicken fricassee cooked in cider and served with roasted apples

Gigot d'agneau roti, cocos cuisines $21.95

Roasted lamb leg served with a coco bean ragout

Demoiselles de Cherbourg  í  la nage $24.95

Lobster cooked in a white wine nage and served with carrots and onion.

Desserts

Teurgoule et mirlitons $8.00

Rice pudding served with a classic Normandy cake

Douillon au poire, glace au cidre $8.00

Pear confit wrapped in a puff pastry served with a cider ice cream

Beignet de pomme, glace au calvados $8.00

Apple beignet served with calvados ice cream.

Profiteroles au chocolat chaud $8.00

Puff pastry filled with vanilla ice cream, served with a warm chocolate sauce

***Not included in the three-course prix fixe menu***

Macaron au chocolat, sorbet mandarine $8.00

Chocolate Macaron with fresh tangerines, a chocolate ganache and a tangerine sorbet

***Not included in the three-course prix fixe menu***

*Sommelier Caterina Abbruzzetti will feature the spirits of Normandy and neighboring regions with a menu of ciders and beers such as Duché de Longueville Cider $5 glass / $20 bottle (non-alcoholic), Duché de Longueville Cider Muscadet $7 glass/ $20 bottle, Bière de Jenlain, Ambrée 8 330ml bottle / $14 75c bottle and Warm Cider $8.00. Featured cocktails include, the Normandy $10.00 (Calvados, strawberry liquor, lemon juice) Deauville $10.00 (Absolut Pear, apple juice) Honfleur $10.00 (Cointreau, cranberry juice, lemon juice.) For reservations, call Cafe du Parc at: 202-942-7000 or visit www.opentable.com.Visit our Web site at www.cafeduparc.com.

Café du Parc, the popular French bistro located next to the Willard InterContinental, opened in April 2007. Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, afternoon petit plats, takeout lunch items and house specialty French pastries, Café du Parc embraces true classic bistro cuisine with accompanying French wines. Chef Christophe Marque leads Café du Parc's culinary brigade under the guidance consultancy of celebrated Michelin-starred French chef, Antoine Westermann. Call Cafe du Parc at: 202-942-7000, or visit our Website at www.cafeduparc.com.

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Bit of a mixed experience at Cafe du Parc yesterday. The food was largely good to excellent, the service middling to poor.

First impression: they lost our reservation (as well as the reservation of the woman beside me at the hostess stand). And, if we wanted to eat outside, it would be another ten minutes because, why would they think of having the patio open at opening time? No problem in the end, as arriving guests tipped the majority toward indoor dining, anyway. But still...

We relax over an apero. Try the Deauville. The last guest arrives. The waiter -- competent but not impressive -- points out the special 3-course prix fixe Normandy menu. Not necessary for us, because that's why we came, but possibly important for the poor saps who came for the Brittany menu, which remains on their website, weeks after that special has ended.

I'm a little vague on wine pricing, but I think triple retail (quadruple(?) wholesale) is ridiculous. Nonetheless, the Macon-Loche, Domaine Celine & Laurent 2006 is a tasty little unoaked chard that -- when bought for $16.99 at Calvert Woodley -- is well worth the price.

If it weren't for the actual food, it might have been a bad experience all around. And, indeed, madmoiselle's flank steak was overcooked. Fortunately, there were the oysters. Poached and put back in their shells atop an artichoke puree and glazed with a gelee that tasted faintly of anise, they were brilliant. For them as wanted a more fishy type of fish, the marinated mackerel hit the sweet spot between assertive and intolerable. The scallops in Calvados cream looked wonderful (my friend ate them before I could steal a taste).

Later, we had a bit of charcoutrie -- is it possible to have a bad charcouterie board? -- with a side of crispy frites. My lobster was a smidge overcooked, but quite tasty in the chive cream sauce nonetheless. There was a lot to like about the lotte (aka monkfish -- how does a monkfish reproduce?). And, while it was too nice a day to truly appreciate the chicken fricaseed in cider, if we get a late frost, I'd be tempted to warm up with it.

We were in the a fine mood as the server came round for the dessert order and I asked him what was included in the special ($34.99 and worth ever sou) Normandy thingie. "Oh, that's only for dinner."

I beg your pardon? Aside from the absurd notion that you'd charge more at lunch than at dinner for the same food, you specifically mentioned the special menu.

Manager arrives, fixes the check without a fuss. A splash of wine gets poured all around. The lemon tart probably wasn't worth calling the manager over just to get for free, but makes a tasty end to a fine meal. We didn't get a shot at the Norman desserts which, in retrospect, pisses me off a bit.

All in all, they need to up their service game and get rid of that stupid "dinner only" thing on the special, but there is a certain value in assuming that the B team works Sunday lunch and heading back for the many Norman specialties left unsampled. I think I'm going back for the Tripe a la Mode du Caen.

(By the way, can't we institute some sort of dress code at the District Line, to keep tourists from showing up at nice places dressed like tourists? I mean, grow up.)

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All in all, they need to up their service game and get rid of that stupid "dinner only" thing on the special.

the press release above says the special is for lunch and dinner:
"the Normandy specialties will be offered for lunch and dinner. A three-course region of Normandy prix fixe menu is $34.95, and items can be ordered í  la carte."
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the press release above says the special is for lunch and dinner:

"the Normandy specialties will be offered for lunch and dinner. A three-course region of Normandy prix fixe menu is $34.95, and items can be ordered í  la carte."

And, I'd asked them over the phone while making my reservation if the special was available at Sunday lunch (worrying that they'd have some brunch special instead).

No wonder my anger was so righteous. wink.gif

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Bit of a mixed experience at Cafe du Parc yesterday. The food was largely good to excellent, the service middling to poor.

First impression: they lost our reservation (as well as the reservation of the woman beside me at the hostess stand).

Well, that answers that question. Got a call at 12:30 today asking where my party of six was.

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Bit of a mixed experience at Cafe du Parc yesterday. The food was largely good to excellent, the service middling to poor.

First impression: they lost our reservation (as well as the reservation of the woman beside me at the hostess stand). And, if we wanted to eat outside, it would be another ten minutes because, why would they think of having the patio open at opening time? No problem in the end, as arriving guests tipped the majority toward indoor dining, anyway. But still...

We relax over an apero. Try the Deauville. The last guest arrives. The waiter -- competent but not impressive -- points out the special 3-course prix fixe Normandy menu. Not necessary for us, because that's why we came, but possibly important for the poor saps who came for the Brittany menu, which remains on their website, weeks after that special has ended.

I'm a little vague on wine pricing, but I think triple retail (quadruple(?) wholesale) is ridiculous. Nonetheless, the Macon-Loche, Domaine Celine & Laurent 2006 is a tasty little unoaked chard that -- when bought for $16.99 at Calvert Woodley -- is well worth the price.

If it weren't for the actual food, it might have been a bad experience all around. And, indeed, madmoiselle's flank steak was overcooked. Fortunately, there were the oysters. Poached and put back in their shells atop an artichoke puree and glazed with a gelee that tasted faintly of anise, they were brilliant. For them as wanted a more fishy type of fish, the marinated mackerel hit the sweet spot between assertive and intolerable. The scallops in Calvados cream looked wonderful (my friend ate them before I could steal a taste).

Later, we had a bit of charcoutrie -- is it possible to have a bad charcouterie board? -- with a side of crispy frites. My lobster was a smidge overcooked, but quite tasty in the chive cream sauce nonetheless. There was a lot to like about the lotte (aka monkfish -- how does a monkfish reproduce?). And, while it was too nice a day to truly appreciate the chicken fricaseed in cider, if we get a late frost, I'd be tempted to warm up with it.

We were in the a fine mood as the server came round for the dessert order and I asked him what was included in the special ($34.99 and worth ever sou) Normandy thingie. "Oh, that's only for dinner."

I beg your pardon? Aside from the absurd notion that you'd charge more at lunch than at dinner for the same food, you specifically mentioned the special menu.

Manager arrives, fixes the check without a fuss. A splash of wine gets poured all around. The lemon tart probably wasn't worth calling the manager over just to get for free, but makes a tasty end to a fine meal. We didn't get a shot at the Norman desserts which, in retrospect, pisses me off a bit.

All in all, they need to up their service game and get rid of that stupid "dinner only" thing on the special, but there is a certain value in assuming that the B team works Sunday lunch and heading back for the many Norman specialties left unsampled. I think I'm going back for the Tripe a la Mode du Caen.

(By the way, can't we institute some sort of dress code at the District Line, to keep tourists from showing up at nice places dressed like tourists? I mean, grow up.)

I believe Calvert Woodely might have a way to cut out the middle man. Also they buy in more bulk volume. Which allows them more leverage. I don't believe you can find The Macon-Loche, Domaine Celine & Laurent 2006 everywhere. Just specialty wine shops. 2006 vintage it retails for under $30!

Prices are reflected on vintages, what vintage was $16.99? Thanks for the tip I can buy my wines there! If you can find it locally. This lovely lemon-gold Macon offers aromas of apple skin and hazelnut, ripe flavors of lemon citrus. A honeyed taste, with moderate acidity and a firm finish. It's also biodynamic.

Importer is Elite Wines.

My apologies for your mixed experience.

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I'm a little vague on wine pricing, but I think triple retail (quadruple(?) wholesale) is ridiculous. Nonetheless, the Macon-Loche, Domaine Celine & Laurent 2006 is a tasty little unoaked chard that -- when bought for $16.99 at Calvert Woodley -- is well worth the price.
I believe Calvert Woodely might have a way to cut out the middle man. Also they buy in more bulk volume. Which allows them more leverage. I don't believe you can find The Macon-Loche, Domaine Celine & Laurent 2006 everywhere. Just specialty wine shops. 2006 vintage it retails for under $30!

Prices are reflected on vintages, what vintage was $16.99? Thanks for the tip I can buy my wines there! If you can find it locally. This lovely lemon-gold Macon offers aromas of apple skin and hazelnut, ripe flavors of lemon citrus. A honeyed taste, with moderate acidity and a firm finish. It's also biodynamic.

Importer is Elite Wines.

My apologies for your mixed experience.

It is indeed a very good wine, I was, however, taken aback by the cost of a bottle which I'd paid $16.49 retail. Details here.

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I don't believe you can find The Macon-Loche, Domaine Celine & Laurent 2006 everywhere. Just specialty wine shops. 2006 vintage it retails for under $30!

and whole foods grocery stores. i am not certain of the exact price, but i am fairly certain it is below $20.

the wine is listed at woodberry kitchen for $33 a bottle. how much is it at cafe du parc?

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and whole foods grocery stores. i am not certain of the exact price, but i am fairly certain it is below $20.

the wine is listed at woodberry kitchen for $33 a bottle. how much is it at cafe du parc?

At the risk of posting another (minor) bitch and thus sound like I like this place less than I do, it's somewhat annoying that the wine list is available on the Willard's website, but not, as far as I can tell, on the Cafe du Parc website, where you'd be more likely to look for it. (I'm starting to sound like I do when I get on a roll with the kids: "you didn't finish doing the dishes. And, another thing, your room is a mess. And where's the change from the money I gave you yesterday to buy milk? And why haven't you gotten those thank you notes out yet. Have your friends been drinking my booze again? And what the hell were you doing until 4 o'clock in the morning, anyway...?").

Anyway, the Macon Loche Domaine Celine & Laurent TRIPOZ, 2006 is $48.

1) The wine thing is more an incidental observation than anything else.

2) The food was very good, well worth a return visit, especially at $34.95 (and Provence starts in June!) and

3) I wrote a polite, if direct, e-mail to the manager about the service issues and received a quick and extremely gracious response, which counts for a great deal.

I don't anyone reading this to be discouraged from enjoying a fine meal at one of Washington's better bistros. I, personally, am eager for patio weather.

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the wine list is available on the Willard's website, but not, as far as I can tell, on the Cafe du Parc website, where you'd be more likely to look for it.
Of course this may have changed since Waitman posted the above, but Café du Parc's website does have a copy of the wine list, just in a peculiar place. It's under "Menus" then "Special Menus", where it is to be found flanked by "Children's Menu" and "Special Event Menu". And the Brittany menu is still up. (But I love Café du Parc all the same.)
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Running up to April 20, the saveurs de normande menu is made for raw spring days like this. The tripes a la mode de caen ($15.95) is small meal in itself, a warm and hearty casserole served in a clay terrine, the tripe soft but substantial in texture and surprisingly beefy in flavor, with low strands of meat attached to the non-honeycombed side of the stomach. Simple carrots and potatoes fill out the dish. While you wouldn't want to eat either of these alone, they catch the cider jus, which puts everything in motion. Along with calvados and aromatics that go sight unseen, the sauce adds muted sweetness and a thin breath of pepper. Café du parc's version of this traditional recipe is appropriately light, I would say, for a change of seasons, though it is good enough to suggest the rustic depths to which it might be taken in winter with the addition of hooves and other gelatinous parts the butcher might have hanging around. Sounding luxurious but a mixed bag, a demoiselle de Cherbourg a la nage ($24.95) comes to the table in a creamy, apple-laced froth that settles into a light, white soup. A small claw is perfectly tender, but other parts of the lobster can be stringier, or poached tough. If I hadn't been so full, I might have appreciated more a generously portioned, milky and uncrusted rice pudding ($8). I probably should have delved further into the small slice of mirliton by its side, which seemed to be a simple sugar cake, but perhaps was not. Apple cider sorbet cut through the sugar in the pudding, giving it a nice lift. A baked apple ($8) is also on hand, to dabble in melting green apple sorbet. (if your server asks if you know what tripe is, you can just tell him "please, do i really need to know?")

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Sounding luxurious but a mixed bag, a demoiselle de Cherbourg a la nage ($24.95) comes to the table in a creamy, apple-laced froth that settles into a light, white soup. A small claw is perfectly tender, but other parts of the lobster can be stringier, or poached tough.

When I had lobster a few nights ago, it was not overcooked or tough. My top vote on the Normandy menu is the Fricassée de volaille au cidre, pommes rôies - Tender falling apart chicken, wonderful roasted apples and a rich cider flavor. Excellent on a crummy rainy day.
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At the kind invitation of Assistant F&B Manager Philippe Chamoun, in the wake of detailed but surprisingly (to those who know me) un-pissy e-mail detailing the venial sins outlined above, my friends and I returned to Cafe du Parc for a do-over.

As I pointed out to Philippe, this was far more consideration than was merited -- that he responded quickly and graciously was more than enough for me. But, who could turn down a deal like that? And, what a great deal it turned out to be.

Sadly, one of our friends seems to be weather-averse, so we were again upstairs. Other than that, things were close to perfect.

I began with my new favorite pretentious apero, Pineau des Charentes, while Mrs B had the pear-ish "Deauville," both worthy ways to begin the meal.

Without going into too much detail, the winners were again the oysters (you must have these) resting in an artichoke puree that had been kissed with a bit of truffle oil; the absurdly delicious Tripe a la Mode de Caen -- which had an almost aromatic air about it, as though it had been spiked with cardamom or allspice, which the chef later denied doing -- and the decidedly non-Norman special of the day, Paella which, served for two (it needn't be ordered that way, I believe) is truly an impressive presentation. I am not sure that Spaniards normally suck the heads of the langoustines, as my buddy from Mississippi did (to the horror of his diplomatic corps-brat wife) but it was certainly a dish which invited you to savor every last scrap.

I can also vouch for the scallops in cider, some of the tastiest bivalves this side of the oysters, and the Pate en croute, which is possibly the best pate I've ever eaten -- not just for the knot of foie in the middle of the slice, either.

It appears that the problem with offering the special at lunch is that the desserts are not yet prepared, so this was our first foray into that side of the special menu and it was a worthy journey. The pear wrapped in puff and baked soft was a delight, as was the accompanying Calvados ice cream, and the profiteroles met a hasty end at the hands of my Mississippi friend.

If there was any disappointment, it was a run-of-the- mill cheese plate. I mean Vache qui Rit? C'mon.

OK, kidding about that. But can I say this? I'm over Epoisses. My kingdom for a freaking properly aged bit of Pont L'Eveque.

The wine, A Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux was tasty and -- I mention this with trepidation only because of the outcry created by the Macon-Loche incident -- seemed priced just about "right." (Fevre, by the way, produces the best $20 (retail) Chablis I have ever tasted, by a kilometer. Just a village Chablis but, force to choose between three bottles of it and one of the also excellent Le Clos, I'd take the former.)

Service, provided by Abdul (sp?) was excellent.

Even knowing that they were laying in wait for us, it was a truly enjoyable performance on every level and, now that spring is here and Provence is coming, we are eager to return.

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The wine, A Fevre Chablis Champs Royaux was tasty and -- I mention this with trepidation only because of the outcry created by the Macon-Loche incident -- seemed priced just about "right." (Fevre, by the way, produces the best $20 (retail) Chablis I have ever tasted, by a kilometer. Just a village Chablis but, force to choose between three bottles of it and one of the also excellent Le Clos, I'd take the former.)

tumble across this in an interesting Times article on the 2007 vintage in Chablis:

"William Fèvre is one of the Chablis elite. While I haven't tasted the top-level Fèvre 2007 wines, its '07 Champs Royaux, made from purchased grapes, is a delicious Chablis for about $25, with mineral flavors that I could think of only as limestone scrapings, along with a bit of lemon, honey and herbs."

Different vintage, from the one we had, which makes me pine for the next release.
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