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We absolutely loved Prague. What a gorgeous city, and incredibly walkable (although the hike up to the castle is tiring). A few food/drink highlights:

Le Degustation Boheme Bourgeoise - This was our splurge in Prague, and was by far the best meal of our European trip (Iceland, Amsterdam and Prague). I'm doing this off the top of my head, but we went with the six course tasting menu, which was approximately $100, and the wine pairings (about another $50). It was a fantastic experience across the board. The food was interesting and inventive, service was incredible, and we really enjoyed the all Czech wine pairings. It was worth the splurge.

Lokal - This is an enormous beer hall across the street from Le Degustation where we had dinner one evening. We loved it. If I'm remembering correctly we had the pork schnitzel and the pork knuckle accompanied by pilsner, and we both loved our meals. Very cool experience. 

U Hrocha - We ended up here while looking for food on our hike up to the castle, and it was wonderful. I don't think there was a single tourist in the whole joint. We had pilsner, sausage and potato salad, and I think the total for both of us was less than $8. Just a great pub. 

Kavarna Slavia - We were starving when we first arrived in Prague, and ended up here as it was near our hotel. The ambiance is fantastic, and the food is at least decent. It's worth stopping in. 

U Zlateho Tygra (Golden Tiger) - Very cool beer hall in the middle of old town. If your experience is anything like ours you'll enter, look around in a very confused manner (a placard that says "reserved" doesn't appear to mean what I think it does in Prague), eventually sit down and have a very large bald man immediately deposit two gigantic glasses of Pilsner Urquell in front of you. 

Hemingway Bar - At some point in Prague we grew slightly tired of beer, and went looking for cocktails. This was a very cool spot, with an interesting menu and good cocktails. 

Cash Only Bar - This is the sister establishment to the Hemingway Bar, and is located just around the corner. Also great cocktails, and also worth visiting. 

Bonvivant's - This place was located just a couple of doors down from our hotel (Unitas). They had fantastic cocktails, although the place was essentially empty every time we walked by. But worth stopping in. 

Aloha - We were curious what a Hawaiian Tiki bar in Prague might look like so we stopped in. It was fun, but nothing special. 

 

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In Prague, we had dinner at Milada, a quick lunch at Kantyna, a bite to eat at Cafe Lounge, and a tour with Taste of Prague.  We considered Field and Le Degustation, but thought the menu at Milada looked the best. 

Milada was just wonderful - beautiful, tranquil, amazing food, good service, all at less than $100 including tip for a 9 course dinner for two with a few non-alcoholic drinks.  It's easily better (as an overall experience) than 3 of the 4 Viennese 2-stars that we ate at.

I really enjoyed our Taste of Prague tour.  Our guide Martin (his day job is a butcher at artisanal butchery Nase Maso, before that he was a psychiatrist in Vienna) was friendly and personable and thoughtful, very enthused and knowledgeable about food, and we had a lovely small group of 7 people.  The food and drinks were very delicious and left us plenty full and happily buzzed.  Their website and guide book is smart and their recommendations were spot on for us.  I very highly recommend this tour for anyone finding themselves in Prague.  

Kantyna served generous portions of excellent carpaccio and steak tartare for less than $10.  The steak tartare portion alone is enough for a normal size lunch.  They also served cooked meats and let's you pick meats from the butcher case to cook to order.

Cafe Lounge is a nice space and we liked the dishes we had there.  It seems like a good place for a midday or afternoon break.  

 

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On 11/9/2018 at 8:20 AM, astrid said:

Kantyna served generous portions of excellent carpaccio and steak tartare for less than $10.  The steak tartare portion alone is enough for a normal size lunch.  They also served cooked meats and let's you pick meats from the butcher case to cook to order

 

Recently returned from a short visit to Prague and Kantyna is still a great spot for meat lovers. It is a butcher shop in front where you can pick out chartucherie or a steak for them to cook to order for you, then you head back and order food from a hot food counter with huge, good steak tartare, popular carpaccio (we didn't get it but saw lots of orders), brisket slices (really good), chopped beef (only ok), and a bunch of pork options I didn't try. Also key is here you can get a platter of roast vegetables that are very tasty. It is hard to find non-cabbage vegetables at traditional Czech places. They of course also have a good beer menu which you can order at the beer section or go sit and a waiter will bring you drinks. At the end after you are stuffed, you take your ticket which has been stamped for every order, and pay as you leave.

Kantyna is one of over a dozen restaurants owned by the Ambiente group which have their own foodie map of all their places in Prague. We went to several and all were very good. You could easily stick solely to this map and eat/drink great the whole time in the city. We went to their micro-brewery for good beers, their coffee shop for nice coffee and tea plus good apricot cake by the slice, and got good strudel and pastries from Cafe Savoy their very popular breakfast sit down restaurant (which we did take away since we didn't know reservations were needed for weekend brunch).

We also had really good but oddly described dinner at Cafe Imperial Next Door. I think the odd descriptions were less than perfect English translations. This is the more modern Cafe Imperial across the street from the famous original but with a more upscale vibe. My brother's roast duck was delicious and sliced beef in creamy sauce with bread dumplings (sounds boring but it was hearty and great with a thick brown sauce). Slices of cake were good too but I would say the savories were better than the sweets.

We stayed in Mala Strana/Lesser Town and the front desk of our hotel told me to check out Beseda around the corner for my first meal in town. This bar restaurant was cheap and has interesting beer options - you pick your amount of foam from zero, quarter, half, or all foam and I had a great roast duck with sweet cabbage and both regular bread dumplings and the even better carlsbad-style bread dumplings. Also upstairs is an old school jazz club that has all different kinds of music now. I ended up at a pretty good blues rock show for $10 after i saw all of these people streaming in. 

In the Karlin neighborhood, we went to Bistro Nejen for drinks and appetizers. Great smallish wine bar with a small foodie menu. The smoked eggs and mushrooms were good and the potatos swimming in a cream sauce were excellent.

The main tourist dessert here is the Treldnick - bready doughnut-like chimney cake. They are ok but make sure you get a fresh made one that is still steaming, much better than the stale-ish one we first tried at the bottom of the castle in a tourist carryout.

We also went to the great outdoor farmer's market on Saturday morning along the river, south of the Old Town. It was huge with all kinds of produce, baked goods, some crafts, drinks, etc. We didn't get any but very interesting to see the homemade booze and wine being sold in reused soda bottles or growler-like refill your own. We ate some good strudels and excellent hot, spiced apple cider that was pressed onsite at the farmer's market.

 

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