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Citronelle, 2007 National James Beard Award-Winning Chef Michel Richard's Flagship - Chef Patrick Robinson Replaces David Deshaies - Closed


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  what looked like ribbons of fettucine were nothing more than lobster.  How did Chef do that?! 
I have read of chefs using pressure to make such things. Placing the meat into a cyrovac bag, and using the pressure to fuse the meat together into long ribbons. I am not saying that is how it was done, but that would be my guess.
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There's a dude named Mike Colameco whose had a local TV program about food/restaurants/cooking for about the past 5 years in New York. It also airs on NJ Network. This guy is all about the gastrocopernicanapplegrande theory of the food world revolving around New York. Now I don't disagree with that theory, but I'm aware enough that there are many other gastronomical bodies circulating throughout a very large planetary galaxy. Many of these places outside of NY do great things.

I bring this up because Colameco just spent an entire show raving about Citronelle, calling upon folks in NY, Boston, Philly and NJ to get down to Georgetown and enjoy what Michel Richard is doing.

The program was really impressive, devoting about 20 minutes to interviewing Chef Richard and others in his kitchen. The stylings, motivations, surprising ways to use ingredients were highlighted in serious detail. This was no 5 minute Food TV schlock. This really was a celebration of Richard and Citronelle and I was really impressed.

I've been there once for dessert and was really impressed. I think I'm a little priced out for dinner there, but after seeing this show I know I need to skip a few happy hours and collect on a big jackpot sometime soon at Citronelle.

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Mark just forwarded me an email with some appealing photos of some dishes currently featured at Citronelle (with the photographer's permission to post them). Click here - you can just click on the first photo to start the slideshow without having to sign in.

Cheers,

Rocks

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appealing photos 
The tuna napoleon and fois gras carpaccio are just amazing. Just look at that slice of egg! Is that pizza available in the lounge? Would be a great happy hour sort of situation.

Any chance the lobster burger will be making an appearance?

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Ate at Citronelle last night and I have to say I'm not drinking the Citronelle Kool-Aid like a lot of people.

I had the foie gras salad (unbelievable) and the missus the 'begula' pasta (better than unbelievable by an order of magnitude), followed by the lupe de mer for her (good) and the venison with chestnut risotto for me (venison was very good, risotto not so much).

But here's the problem. I didn't order the venison. I ordered the chateaubriand. Would it have been good? I don't know. I didn't want to send the plate back and sit with my hands in my lap while the missus enjoyed the sea bass.

To be fair, the staff was more than gracious in apologizing and offering glasses of wine to make things right. They did everything you'd hope they'd do.

Except.

When you go to a place like that, and you spend $350 for dinner, these things shouldn't happen in the first place. When you drop that kind of coin on dinner you want to spend your time concentrating on food and drink and friends, not asking waiters what happened with your entrees, or why the sommellier never even stopped by to say hello or much less ask if we had questions or if we were looking for something special, etc...

The room was only half full so I know they weren't slammed. I guess it was just "Amateur Night." The problem is, we don't consider ourselves amateurs and didn't expect to be treated as such. And even if we were, the last time I checked our money is just as green as the next guy's.

Was the food for the most part great? You bet. Was it $350 great? No chance. I'd rather spend $7 for a half smoke and chili fries at Ben's and use the other $343 to fly to Bermuda for the weekend.

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We were the late seating at 9:30, but yes I would estimate the room was between 1/2 and 2/3 full while we were there.

his has an entirely different meaning than you're saying that the place was only half full. That creates the impression that over the course of the several hours you were there-most people will assume it was earlier-that the restaurant was not successfully booked on what could be the single busiest day of the year. Now we've gone to the 9:30 seating and the possibility that it was 2/3 full. For this seating-which probably lasts past midnight, I am certain they stagger reservations so the other 1/3 would have left from an earlier seating.

Citronelle is an enormously popular restaurant that has historically been a VERY difficult reservation on Valentine's Day. To be honest I am not a fan of dining out anywhere on Valentine's Day. But I do think you need to be fair to the restaurant. I thought Sietsema's recommendation of Elevation Burger was a really good one actually.

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I can't say I care if it wasn't completely full because a.) they were underbooked or b.) they staggered the seating.

My point was that being slammed couldn't have been an excuse for the missteps we saw since, for whatever reason, the room was hardly full. And if being slammed wasn't the reason, something else must have been.

I think I've been more than fair. I said they took steps to try to correct the problem and I tipped my 20 percent like a good little boy. But the next time I'm going out to drop that kind of money for a dinner I'm driving up to Charleston or out to Maestro or somewhere else. Citronelle is off the list.

Edited by BigWyoming
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how often does Chef Richard change the menu at Citronelle? Is the Begula Pasta still available?

The web site, click, from what I have seen is pretty up to date and shows that the "Begula Pasta" is available.

Hint: Try the orange souffle for dessert.

eta: obe

Edited by mdt
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Tonight I found myself in Georgetown for dinner at an ethnic restaurant. After dinner the weather beckoned us to walk. First we stopped for ice cream but it had gotten a bit chilly so ice cream no longer seemed appealing. So we kept walking... coffee beckoned. Then I remembered all the talk about Citronelle from DonRockwell.com and decided to go for dessert.

Oh my, first I introduced myself to Mark Slater. He was soooo nice, a real treat to meet. We opted for the Chocolate Tasting as an introduction but I am now counting my days until I return to try the other desserts.

More importantly, I am counting my days until I eat downstairs. It is a spectacular space.

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I took a girlfriend to Citronelle about 2 years ago, when Alan was there and all I can say is that the praises heaped on this particular restaurant are all well deserved. We were seated right in front of the kitchen and, being a chef I loved watching the pace and execution. My girlfriend of the time was a fish eating vegetarian so we had a wonderful 9 courses, with wine with each of her courses differing from mine, very nice. The food was excellent, the wine amazing. It was easily one of the best meals I've ever eaten, better than Aquavit, better than Tru and almost as good as CT's and I definately felt it when the bill arrived, but well worth it.

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Yes, that's how to save a night. A ray of sunshine.  The Orange Souffle and a glass of Sauternes. 
Our night didn't need saving - it just needed a splendid finish and we got it tonight at Citronelle. Meaghan is right, the Orange Souffle is amazing, especially with the La Bergerie Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru, 1997. The Apple Tasting looked tempting too but I had to try the chocolate flakes with cocoa puffs - cuckoo crazy minty choco crispy goshbustified goodness. Mark Slater paired it splendidly for us with a '02 Helyos Banyuls, sweet and thick with blackberries and licorice. (I wracked my mushy brain wondering why Banyuls sounded familiar - a ha - I had stayed in the nearby seaside town of Collioure as a kid, while my mother went in search of artistic inspiration.) We finished (or thought we had finished) with nut and fruit tuilles fashioned like so much charcuterie - each nestled upright in a bowl mounded with raw Israeli couscous, tiny poppyseeds edging a ring around each "slice" like specks of coarse pepper.

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Chef was belatedly celebrating his birthday with friends at the next table at evening's end, and so two in our party shared in the celebration with special cigars (what does that mean "pre-Castro"???) and cognacs. Thank you Mark for sharing some of your evening with us - you make me smile. <_<

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And thank you special friend of Michel Richard for the pre-Castro cubano. There is no substitute for being in the right place at the right time. As soon as the Chef Richard and his friend lit up I caught a wiff and immediately exclaimed, "you can smoke cigars in here?" To which the diners (Chef and friends) said, "does our cigar smoke bother you?" I immediately replied "not at all, I think it smells good." The next thing I know, Chef's friend is offering me and one of my other dining companions one of what they were having. It was an offer we could not refuse. It lasted until I got home, walked the dog, and there was still enough left for a wee dram of scots whiskey in the back yard under the nearly full moon on a clear night. Needless to say, I feel like shit this morning, one cigar of that length and girth is like smoking a half carton of cigarettes (the cigar was on th order of a Churchill) It likely was one of the best cigars I've ever smoked.

And thank you Mark Slater for practising your considerable talents on our table. It really made an already great evening even better.

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We just returned from Citronelle where we celebrated my son's birthday (his choice). The meal and service were fantastic, but at the moment I am too full and a little too tipsy to write about our evening. However, I do want to thank Mark Slater for a wonderful evening. He is nothing short of the cosumate professional. and it was fun to finally meet him in person. He paired the wines with our meal perfectly. After confirming what my tastes were, he recommended several Burgandys in several price ranges. At his recommendation we ordered a 2000 Domaine du Château Chorey Beaune Les Teurons 1er Cru to start the meal. Karen raised her eyebrows a bit when I ordered a Burgandy (she knows I really love the big RRV type Pinot Noirs) but she loved the wine. When the entrees were ready to arrive, I asked him for something to pair with the lamb and venison. Again, a short discussion about tastes, and I let Jake choose whether he wanted a French Syrah or an Aussie Shiraz. Once he said he wanted something from "down under" Mark recommended a 2002 Torbreck "The Steading" and once again, was dead on. What a wonderful blend of Shiraz, Grenache, and Mourvèdre. Medium-bodied, surprisingly restrained and in perfect balance. Flavorful and delicious with flavors of crushed herbs, licorice, black raspberry and other black fruits. Jake loved it and even Karen, who usually does not like Aussie wines loved it. And Mark's stories were sidespliting. He also made sure the service we received was first rate. I have to say a big thank you so much Mark, you made Jake's birthday dinner special.

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Ok, my hubby is making me post since I'm new to the board. I think he is better at descriptions but here I go.

We had dinner Sat April 1st at Citronelle. I guess it was in celebration of my new job, although I believe it was just the best excuse we could find. We've been wanting to go back since we went 2 years ago.

Just as the first time we dined Mark made sure we had a table within view of the kitchen. Mark also greeted us with a glass of bubbly. You'll have to forgive me but I don't remember the name. But it was good.

Looking over the menu we decided to go with the "Promenade Gourmande" with the wine pairings. Why not go all out.

First I'll say all the wine pairings were perfect. We enjoyed every single glass (and there were lots of them) of wine put in front of us. Not just good wines but the pairings with the food were perfect. I wish we had written them down. Of course Mark also spent time telling us some stories and describing the wines.

MARK YOU ARE THE BEST! Thank you for making the evening perfect.

So, my recollection is a little hazy as you can imagine, but here goes...

Amuse Buche - 1-mushroon cigar, 2-"hard boiled egg" - the white was mozzerella and the yolk was yellow tomato, 3- chopped string beans in vinigrette-WOW

Lobster English Pea Bisque - Just about the best thing I've ever tasted. Rich but not heavy with lumps of lobster. Being 2 proclaimed pea haters we couldn't get enough of this bisque.

Truffle & Foie Gras Salad - Good, but I'm not crazy about foie. The truffle and foie were layered together then cut into squares and served on greens.

Lobster Medallion - Mark requested the kitchen to mix it up a little and my hubby got the lobster medallion as listed on the menu but they brought me the Lobster "Begula Pasta". Besides the presentation being fantastic (caviar tin with roe shaped pasta on top) the food inside was unbelievable. The pasta "roe" on top with the lobster and some type of sauce underneath. My only regret is I couldn't lick out the tin. My hubby says the medallion was good too - we continue to argue about whose was better.

Sablefish - Also fantastic.

Venison with potato napoleon and celeriac-red wine sauce - Wow, the best venison I've ever had, tender, perfectly seasoned, not overpowered by the sauce, Wow.

Cheese course

Apple Two Ways - Apple sorbet, this should be the only flavor sorbet needed. The tartness of the apples were cut with just enough sweetness to be perfect, unbelievable. Now I have to try to make my own. Can't remember #2 but I believe it was a tartin.

Chocolate Mushoom Vacherin - Mushroom shaped chocolate meringue filled with a chocolate ? my hubby says ice cream but I don't remember it being cold. I regret I was too stuffed (and tipsy) to fully enjoy this but it was good.

My hubby and I agree that this was by far the best tasting menu and wine pairing we've ever had. Pricey but worth every penny we paid. I highly recommend eating here at least once in your life to truly die happy.

Hope I did ok for my first time. <_<

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Chocolate Mushoom Vacherin - Mushroom shaped chocolate meringue filled with a chocolate ?  my hubby says ice cream but I don't remember it being cold.  I regret I was too stuffed (and tipsy) to fully enjoy this but it was good.

Vanilla mousse (not cold) in the stem of the mushroom, chocolate ice cream in the cap - so you were both right. <_<

Total agreement on the lobster English pea bisque; it had a really nice balance of sweet from the peas and lobster, and salty from the lobster consomme base.

Also, on the fruity drink side, the pear riesling sangria is really, really good (and I don't even like pears!), and will be perfect company for a nice spring evening on the terrace.

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Ok, my hubby is making me post since I'm new to the board.  I think he is better at descriptions but here I go.

Nah, you did a better job than I could do. <_< The only thing that I want to add is that the Sablefish was one of the best pieces of fish that I have ever eaten. The sablefish was wrapped in caramelized onions which complimented the fish perfectly without overpowering it. I'm betting that Michel Richard is a shoe-in for the James Beard award!

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Clearly I'm part of a very small minority here (or else the world's quitest silent majority), but my meals at Citronelle place it towards the top of my list of worst dining experiences - especially considering it should be at the top of my list of best restaurants.

I've been there for dinner three times because I kept hoping that my previous times were flukes. I really wanted to see why people were calling it the best restaurant in town, and one of the top in the country.

I found the food, while somewhat original, to be relatively bland. And one thing I'm well known for is ordering the best items off a menu, so I know I wasn't making bad choices. I just found everything to be lacking the depth and richness of flavor I usually associate with a place like Citronelle. Especially at the prices I was paying.

And yes, Monsieur Richard WAS in the kitchen for two of my three nights there, not that it should matter.

The food was nothing compared to the service. My first time there I wore pressed slacks and a sport coat with tie. The next two times I upgraded to one of my better suits - with no effect.

I don't know if it was because I looked young or what - I certainly didn't look like someone of modest means - but all three waiters I had treated me as if they were disgusted to be waiting on me. When they weren't aloof and inattentive they were downright rude, scowling at me when I told them I'd be declining dessert for one of the evenings. One night I had to ask three times before my water glass was refilled.

Hell, last night at Outback I didn't even have to ASK to get my water refilled.

The sommelier kept trying to push wines in the $100+ range when I told him I was only interested in $55-70. I was NOT asked to sample the wine before it was poured for me and my guests.

I expect a little snobbery at places like Citronelle (and am all the more pleased when I see it absent from places like 1789). I expect a little extra snobbery because of my youth. But I do NOT expect to be repeatedly disappointed by both the food and service at what is reputably the top establishment in DC.

I'm sure my opinion will go unheard because I'm utterly overwhelmed by the POSITIVE criticism of the restaurant, but I needed to get this off my chest and would like to hear from others out there who have had similar experiences.

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Clearly I'm part of a very small minority here (or else the world's quitest silent majority),

Hi Dan (Welcome, BTW).

My one experience mirrored yours, but it happened so long before I joined DR.com that I didn't write about it. So count me one of the silent ones.

I know others have had wonderful experiences there, so I don't know what the difference is. I've had enough great experiences elsewhere to know it's not me, and I don't worry about it.

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I'm sure my opinion will go unheard because I'm utterly overwhelmed by the POSITIVE criticism of the restaurant, but I needed to get this off my chest and would like to hear from others out there who have had similar experiences.

You certainly won't go unheard, but I'll bet I'm not the only one who would appreciate a more detailed description of the food you ate and where you found it wanting.
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You certainly won't go unheard, but I'll bet I'm not the only one who would appreciate a more detailed description of the food you ate and where you found it wanting.

Unfortunately, this was about four or five years ago, so I don't recall what I had.

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I am a huge Citronelle fan, though I can't afford to eat there often.

My first experience with Michel's work was in LA at Citrus in 1996. I think I had to change the reservation 3 times. I was sure they thought I was a total flake.

I went with 2 very good friends, one a foodie; the other not. It was the best dining experience any of had ever had--me a 26-year-old blonde Marilyn Monroe wannabe, one friend weighing in at 350+ at the time and clad in tie-dye, and the other friend an average suburban mom. We didn't look like what you expect at a fining dining place and not for one second were we made to feel uncomfortable or unwelcome.

For years afterward the three of us were still talking about what a great evening it was. Fast forward to 2004 and my upcoming wedding. The three of us would be in the same city at the same time again for the first time since 1999. I secretly made a reservation, told them not to make plans and rubbed my hands gleefully together. The day of the reservation as I picked them up at the train station and airport, I was compelled to tell them the plan as they had immediately started to reminisce about the Citrus dinner.

It lived up to all my expections and built-up memories of the wonderful evening. It did for my friends as well. The food was wonderful, the wine was great and it was the perfect kick-off to a weekend of wedding festivities.

Mr. BLB and I went last May for the one year wedding anniversery dinner. Again I was a flake who had to cancel the reservation due to an awful cold. I did post that we were going and Mark did take care of us. Truthfully though, aside from the warm and wonderful chat we had about the food world in general and the very new world of dr.com, I experienced the same level of terrific service that night that I had on my previous visits.

(I haven't told Mr. BLB yet, but I made a reservation for dinner in June for our second anniversery.... Shush!)

Jennifer

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I found the food, while somewhat original, to be relatively bland. And one thing I'm well known for is ordering the best items off a menu, so I know I wasn't making bad choices. I just found everything to be lacking the depth and richness of flavor I usually associate with a place like Citronelle. Especially at the prices I was paying.

I don't know if it was because I looked young or what - I certainly didn't look like someone of modest means - but all three waiters I had treated me as if they were disgusted to be waiting on me.

I expect a little snobbery at places like Citronelle (and am all the more pleased when I see it absent from places like 1789). I expect a little extra snobbery because of my youth. But I do NOT expect to be repeatedly disappointed by both the food and service at what is reputably the top establishment in DC.

Unfortunately, this was about four or five years ago, so I don't recall what I had.

I've only been once, but very much enjoyed what we had to eat.

I did feel a little condescended to by my server and wondered whether he might have assumed I was too young to belong there. That being said, this is a problem that is not specific to Citronelle, I do not think.

Don't you think its a little unfair to be criticizing service you had 5 years ago, though? Surely, no one deserves to be treated that way, but I don't think the current employees at Citronelle deserve to be maligned for bad behavior of what may well now be past employees. Just a thought.

Sorry you had negative experiences. If you are tempted to try it again, the bar area offers food that I found both tasty and interesting at more reasonable prices and presents an atmosphere where you might feel more comfortable.

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I'm 26. I had one visit to Citronelle at 21 and two at 22. On one of the occassions, I was with a middle-aged couple - and they share my recollection of the evening.

Dan, you are certainly entitled to your opinion, although I do think it a bit unseemly to state it online four or five years after the fact (especially without acknowledging the time passage). That said, I've been to Citronelle three times in the past five months or so. One visit I had the tasting menu with wine pairings, while the other two I dined ala carte. Each time, without exception, I had gracious service, and really wonderful food, from Michel's Begula Pasta, to Breakfast at Citronelle, to a very nice sous vide dish. The wine pairings with the tasting menu were excellent, and if I were to have any criticism it would be that the pours were too generous :) ! Each time that we dined ala carte, Mr.Slater was very professional and worked within our budget to find things that we liked. In the end, I'm sorry that your experiences haven't been as good as mine were, but I'd try it again and see if they don't prove you wrong.
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The sommelier kept trying to push wines in the $100+ range when I told him I was only interested in $55-70. I was NOT asked to sample the wine before it was poured for me and my guests.

Normally I let this kind of stuff go. Not this time. Mr. Cole, let me tell you something. 25 years ago on my first official sommelier job, I worked with a guy who embodied all the negative sterotypes that sommeliers have garnered over the years. I saw firsthand how to be an arrogant, dishonest jerk from this guy. I am neither arrogant, dishonest or a jerk. I do not now, nor have I ever ignored a customer's request for a certain price range. I am not an armtwister, quite the contrary. It is in no one's interest for me to recommend wines at twice the price requested, especially mine. In addition, I would never pull a cork and just start pouring a wine. I really, really resent this kind of 5 years after the fact character assasination that you posted. A retraction would be most welcome.

Best Regards,

Mark Slater

Chef Sommelier, Citronelle

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Normally I let this kind of stuff go. Not this time. Mr. Cole, let me tell you something. 25 years ago on my first official sommelier job, I worked with a guy who embodied all the negative sterotypes that sommeliers have garnered over the years. I saw firsthand how to be an arrogant, dishonest jerk from this guy. I am neither arrogant, dishonest or a jerk. I do not now, nor have I ever ignored a customer's request for a certain price range. I am not an armtwister, quite the contrary. It is in no one's interest for me to recommend wines at twice the price requested, especially mine. In addition, I would never pull a cork and just start pouring a wine. I really, really resent this kind of 5 years after the fact character assasination that you posted. A retraction would be most welcome.

Best Regards,

Mark Slater

Chef Sommelier, Citronelle

Mark- I was warned that you posted here and that my response might ruffle some feathers. I realize that what I said basically cuts to the core of your life's passion and your reaction is completely understandable. It would be like going up to Paul McCartney and telling him that his guitar is way out of tune.

I've read your posts elsewhere on this board. That's part of what attracted me here in the first place - the opportunity to see what the local culinary celebs are REALLY like - and that's really important to me. I believe that the pleasure a chef's cooking (or a sommelier's wine selection) brings to a patron is as much a function of that person's PASSION for what they're doing as their technical know-how or experience. I can tell from your other posts that you ARE someone who has passion for what he does - you genuinely enjoy it. If you didn't, you probably wouldn't have been as bothered by my comments.

When someone asks me about dining at Citronelle, I tell them what I think. I will, however, qualify my statement with the fact that I have not been there in several years, and I do encourage them to, if they so desire, form their own judgments. I see now my mistake in not including this fact in my initial post.

It is entirely possible that the sommelier(s) I dealt with were NOT you, and judging from what I've seen of you they were not. So on a personal level, I completely and humbly apologize for the offense you took to my statements. It was in no way meant to be a direct "character assassination" and I'm sorry you took it as such. I suppose insulting your restaurant and performance, regardless of whether or not it was an assualt on your character, would be taken as such, and I apologize for that particular error in my judgment.

My intention was not to criticize Citronelle, but merely to find out whether others had shared my experiences - because maybe I was crazy and should give you guys a second (fourth) chance.

Please accept my apologies, and I hope we can turn this into water (wine) under the bridge. I look forward to participating on these forums for a while on down the road, and like I said one of the things I'm most excited about is the opportunity to talk to and learn from passionate culinary professionals such as yourself.

So please, as I'm sure I don't have to tell anyone, take my review of Citronelle with a grain of salt - it was, after all, five years ago.

And Mark, hopefully, no hard feelings.

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Dan,

Thanks so much for clearing this up. Apology accepted, of course. I'm just have a hard time with this internet food writing in general right now. The thing many people don't get is that real people are attached to these critiques. As I said, I don't normally respond to criticism of my place or me. I am not a sacred cow. My place is not a sacred cow. I would hope if I was a jerk that someone would tell me to my face, not slink off and post all over the internet the next day about it. This is why I enjoy it when someone PMs me to say that they are coming.

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My first time there I wore pressed slacks and a sport coat with tie. The next two times I upgraded to one of my better suits - with no effect.

I found the food, while somewhat original, to be relatively bland. And one thing I'm well known for is ordering the best items off a menu, so I know I wasn't making bad choices.

I too share your gripe of lackluster culinary expeditions to the summits of epicurean epiphany and the loathsome question of what to wear, however 5 years may be close to the statute of limitations. Did you bring sherpas? Was the suit plaid? Don’t commit Kara-Kiri tableside just yet. Perhaps you were preoccupied with the praise you had heard and your expectations were to high?

I expect staphylococcus and to be overcharged whenever I go out. I always leave pleased. Many “chefs” have trouble acknowledging a dish better than their own because like any other craftsman, no one wants to be outdone or upstaged. It also impresses your fellow guests if you can look down your nose at the chef’s deconstructed cardoon and duck testicle chimichanga or whatever.

When preparing to go to an elitist dining establishment I usually confer with my local haberdasher about which shade of regal purple velvet my dinner suit should be tailored from and I always bring a gilded scepter. I remove my bejeweled crown but as I am suffering from male pattern baldness and am terribly vain I wear a piece of pita bread as a yarmulke which informs the waitstaff that not only am I a foodie, but I am doing my part in improving middle-eastern relations.

I ate at Citronelle well over a year ago and also found that the dishes could have benefitted from some finishing sea salt. The tuna nicoise with the yellow tomato/mozzarella egg quarter was impressive, the fake egg thing at least.. I was less impressed that the kitchen used a glue gun for the egg handle on the caviar dish (I would have used isomalt) and that they used a Dremmel kit to cut the egg shell in half. I worked with a guy who did it by hand, but he wouldn’t show us how; his secret. Cuttlefish “Pasta” was silky and clean as was the lobster and eggplant but the lobster claw could have been finished with salt. Basil crusted rack of lamb was what it was and its fingerling potatoes were buttery excellent, but I did not like that the bone was removed, blanched and then put back into the loin. My rustic penchant is that proteins be minimally handled after frenching. Rumor has it that some of the proteins are finished a la microwave to ensure consistency. Microwaves are widely used in France (as is ketchup by some chefs, but they will never admit it. Ketchup is sweeter over there too). The result, microwaved or not was a perfect medium. Still I prefer traditional fire heat. Microwaves, as useful as they are, have become Beelzebub’s Holly Hobby home bake oven -another thread...

How good are you at picking lottery number or movies?

I too am known for picking the best things, 'specially awesome movies. I rented "Gigli" and "Battlefield Earth" last night. It was cinematic sweetbread poaching milk! There’s nothing I like better than the congealed milk after poaching sweetbreads. I love it! Its like jello, but its milk...but its got the offal taste!? Truly a rich, savory tapestry of flavors.

Which restaurants are at the top of your list?

Good luck in your pursuits.

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rwtye and I went to Citronelle last night to celebrate our wedding anniversary and the only negative of the whole evening was the regret that we had never eaten there before and had waited so long to do so.

Mr. Slater very kindly arranged for us to have the perfect table -- close enough to the kitchen so the view was fantastic, but not so near that it distracted from the romance of the evening. And, as if that was not enough, he brought us glasses of champagne to start off our celebration. :angry:

As a first course, rwtye had the tuna napoleon nicoise topped with the adorable wedge of hard-boiled egg that is not really an egg at all. When he ordered it, I told him I was glad he was getting that because I wanted a bite of the "egg". Well, even after fifteen years of marriage, rwtye still has not learned to always share. The napoleon came out and the first thing he did was spear the "egg" and popped the whole thing into his mouth before I could even utter a word to stop him. :) He next had the lamb that was served on top of soft polenta & garlic herb sauce laid down across the plate in incredibly precise stripes and surrounded by roasted sunchokes and edamame. He declared the lamb perfectly seasoned and the best he's ever consumed.

I ordered the white asparagus 3 ways -- soup, salad and steamed (?) topped with hollandaise and a poached egg. If I had to choose, the soup was the best of the three with the salad running a close second, but all were delicious. To follow the asparagus, I had, at Mark's suggestion, the cobia with crab risotto and saffron-potato puree. Wow. Very decadent. Very delicious. Very quickly devoured.

After a just-sweet-enough raspberry mousse pre-dessert, rwtye had the trio of ice creams (caramel, vanilla and bittersweet chocolate) because he was getting near his limit of food for the evening. But dessert is always my favorite part of dinner and, in the description of the napoleon on the dessert menu, I saw the two words that never cease to entice me: "maple" and "caramel". It was an absolutely faultless combination of textures and tastes and an ideal finale to my dinner.

For us, the most surprising thing about Citronelle was the warmth and ease of all of the staff. We really expected a more formal and stuffy atmosphere, but we found it very comfortable. And one of the best parts of the night was watching Chef Richard plate some dishes for one of the other tables. He was perfectly serene, an island of calm in the midst of a busy kitchen, as he arranged the food just so. We wanted to clap when he finished.

Overall, a wonderful dinner in every aspect.

And thank you Mark for the bubbly, the table, the advice, the astute matching of wines and all the other little things you did to add to a very special evening. :angry:

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As a long-time lurker, I thought my Citronelle experience this past Wednesday would make a good first extended post.

My girlfriend and I had a 730pm reservation and were seated promtly and graciously. The room had a great energy. We both found ourselves turning, glancing and outright staring when different delectables zoomed by; surely a sign of good things to come.

Although many of the items in the 3-course section of the menu looked interesting, we're of the mind that the tasting menu is really the best way to get to know a chef. And because this was our first time at Citronelle, we opted for the promenade gourmande, with matching wines.

The Amuse Bouche was the already-reported-on trio of egg surprise, mushroom cigar, and haricots vertes tartare. Quite good.

Next, the Lobster and english pea bisque nearly put my girlfriend in a "When Harry Met Sally" state. If I hadn't also been happily slurping away, I may have actually felt jealous of, and threatened by, a soup. The liquid was velvet, and the peas -- both pureed and whole -- cut nicely through the over the top heaviness/creaminess I normally associate with lobster bisque.

On the Soft shell crab, tempura, provencal compote, we disagreed. I liked the airiness of the tempura batter, which accentuated the slight crunch of the fried soft shell and worked well with the pepper-inflected compote. My girlfriend called it too plain, although it's possible her mood was soured by the simple fact that it wasn't another bowl of the bisque.

The Halibut, kohlrabi, celery, verbena-lime emulsion was excellent. Perfectly cooked. Savory, salty and sweet tastes in the sauce and garnishes, with a thread of citrus holding it all together.

Our next course, Lobster medallion, citronelle sauce, japanese eggplant, was a mixed bag on two fronts. First, the food. The lobster and sauce were amazing, but the eggplant was a bit weird. Mushy and bland. I would have preferred a slab of foie gras.

Second, the service. This is the one and only point in the evening when the staff faltered. When the plates arrived, our server and wine pairing were nowhere to be found. After a few minutes of confused looks at each other and unsuccessful attempts to draw the attention of other staff, our server reappeared, carrying drinks down from the bar for another table. To his credit, he immediately noticed our situation and nearly sprinted over with an apology and the next wine. And what a wine it was. A 2003 domaine Borgeot Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Embrazees". All the wines were exceptional (kudos to Mr. Slater!), but this really stood out.

What came next was pure goodness. Duck, served medium rare, duck leg confit, "tutti frutti" bordered perfection. Fat-laden breast that hinted of bacon. Leg confit that was externally crisp and internally succulent. The other elements on the plate swirled together in a way that let their presence be known, but still kept the focus on the duck. Yum.

The Selection of imported cheese was nice, especially the one that may or may not have been epoisse (the wine was catching up at this point), and the desserts -- Raspberry Vacherin and Chocolate 3 ways -- were great as well. I normally don't like vacherin but this one worked, with the cream and fruit moistening the meringue walls. And given that I think chocolate one way is very good, it's obvious that chocolate 3 ways is even better.

The Petits Fours were large sweet wafers studded with nuts sliced very thinly into discs so as to almost look like sopresetta, presented in a bed of toasted cous cous. With coffee, a gentle end to an excellent meal.

In light of some recent posts, I'd like to note service was in no way was affected by our age (we're both mid-20's). As is typical with many of the higher-end places we frequent, we actually found ourselves doted on. Future business, after all, depends on the ability to turn new faces into regular faces irrespective of age, which places like Citronelle surely understand.

To end an already too-long post, we eagerly anticipate our next visit, and hope Mr. Slater won't mind a PM beforehand to see if we might be seated nearer the kitchen next time :)

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rwtye and I went to Citronelle last night to celebrate our wedding anniversary and the only negative of the whole evening was the regret that we had never eaten there before and had waited so long to do so.

Mr. Slater very kindly arranged for us to have the perfect table -- close enough to the kitchen so the view was fantastic, but not so near that it distracted from the romance of the evening. And, as if that was not enough, he brought us glasses of champagne to start off our celebration. :angry:

As a first course, rwtye had the tuna napoleon nicoise topped with the adorable wedge of hard-boiled egg that is not really an egg at all. When he ordered it, I told him I was glad he was getting that because I wanted a bite of the "egg". Well, even after fifteen years of marriage, rwtye still has not learned to always share. The napoleon came out and the first thing he did was spear the "egg" and popped the whole thing into his mouth before I could even utter a word to stop him. :) He next had the lamb that was served on top of soft polenta & garlic herb sauce laid down across the plate in incredibly precise stripes and surrounded by roasted sunchokes and edamame. He declared the lamb perfectly seasoned and the best he's ever consumed.

I ordered the white asparagus 3 ways -- soup, salad and steamed (?) topped with hollandaise and a poached egg. If I had to choose, the soup was the best of the three with the salad running a close second, but all were delicious. To follow the asparagus, I had, at Mark's suggestion, the cobia with crab risotto and saffron-potato puree. Wow. Very decadent. Very delicious. Very quickly devoured.

After a just-sweet-enough raspberry mousse pre-dessert, rwtye had the trio of ice creams (caramel, vanilla and bittersweet chocolate) because he was getting near his limit of food for the evening. But dessert is always my favorite part of dinner and, in the description of the napoleon on the dessert menu, I saw the two words that never cease to entice me: "maple" and "caramel". It was an absolutely faultless combination of textures and tastes and an ideal finale to my dinner.

For us, the most surprising thing about Citronelle was the warmth and ease of all of the staff. We really expected a more formal and stuffy atmosphere, but we found it very comfortable. And one of the best parts of the night was watching Chef Richard plate some dishes for one of the other tables. He was perfectly serene, an island of calm in the midst of a busy kitchen, as he arranged the food just so. We wanted to clap when he finished.

Overall, a wonderful dinner in every aspect.

And thank you Mark for the bubbly, the table, the advice, the astute matching of wines and all the other little things you did to add to a very special evening. :angry:

Thanks for this - we'll be going to Citronelle this weekend, and it's been a while. Now I know what to look out for!
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Wedding anniversaries must be "in" this week. We went to Citronelle Tuesday to celebrate our first, and had a terrific dinner. We have been to Citronelle before, so we knew what to expect. I PM'd Mark in advance like he suggested, but he was unavailable. Nonetheless, we got a great table next to the kitchen window, as we requested in the Open Table reservation, and thoroughly enjoyed watching an incredible professional operation up close. The room was actually quiet and relaxing because, as was explained to us, all the graduation parties and special events had passed and the staff was in a mellow mood.

Our server, Christian, was a delight and very helpful. Although enticing, we just could not do the volume of the tasting menu, so we went with the three course dinner, starting with pistachio-encrusted scallops and a tempura-style soft shell crab. Both were delicious, with pure, intense flavors and exciting textures. Departing from our usual seafood longings and intentionally ordering dishes we dare not try at home, we tried the "pork four ways" and the rabbit tasting. The pork included our first experience with sous vide cooking (a slab of pork belly), which was outstanding for the intensity of flavor. Other presentations included pork cheeks with apple curry risotto (excellent), pork feet cannoli with pureed potato (also excellent), and a salad of frisee with pigs ear. All were terrific, although the texture of the pieces of pig ear in the salad took some getting used to. The rabbit included presentations of sausage, loin, and leg confit. They were delicious. After a treat of rasberry mouse from the kitchen, we had the rasberry vacherin and a four-part apple tasting to round out dessert. Overall, in addition to the exquisite tastes, I had to smile at every beautiful, and sometimes whimsical, presentation that Chef Richard had created.

We had great assistance from the sommelier in helping us select a wine within my designated price range that would compliment the main courses, which was a 1999 Chateaux Pouljeaux, an underrated 16th Century Bordeaux Vineyard. It went marvelously with the meal, and reminded us that over the past few years we had been unintentionally ignoring the Bordeaux region.

All told, it was a wonderful way to celebrate our first official year!

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We dined with some friend at Citronelle on Saturday night and had largely the same meal as aklewis78 did upthread - theres little I can add to his excellent write-up so I'll just make a few notes here and there.

amuse bouche - nice start to the meal.....virtual egg was probably the favorite both in terms of taste and visual inventiveness

Lobster and english pea bisque - outstanding, one of the best soups I've ever had

Softshell crab - my three dining companions loved this dish. I thought it was good but not great....the batter was a little heavy for me.

Halibut, kohlrabi etc - outstanding - I often find the fish dishes in tasting menus to be my least favorite. This was excellent and beautifully seared

Lobster medallion, topped w/ lobster claw in lemongrass sauce - excellent, rich, tasty, get in mah belly...

Duck tutti frutti - outstanding, duck breat cooked medium rare with succulent, crackly skin, and duck confit providing a gamier more intense contrast

Cheese.....Fourme D'ambert, a cheddary hard cheese from Wisconsin, a nice goat cheese and something else that was good

Raspberry Vacherin - excellent

Chocolate three ways - hmmmm, maybe fatigue was setting in as dinner approached the 4 hour mark but I though this dish was a little pedestrian.....a scoop of chocolate ice cream, a chocolate hazelnut (Kit Kat?) bar and something else that escapes me......it just didn't seem to have the inventivenss or visual flair of many of the other dishes and given that Chef Richard is so reknowned for his desserts I was a teeny bit dissapointed

Service was EXEMPLARY. One of the reasons we have not dined at Citronelle is that I have been put off by stories of poor service. Service was everything that it should be in a restaurant like this.....there when you needed it, informed and knowledgable, yet friendly......we also had a great table set into an alcove that provided seclusion from the rest of the room while maintaining a great view of the kitchen (thanks Mark)

We did not go with the wine pairing as my wife is pregnant and our dining companions didn't feel like so much wine so we opted for several glasses interspersed throughout the meal. The friendly sommelier (not Mark) started us off with a nice dry Riesling and then I had a very nice slightly sweeter Gruner Veltliner (I'd never had this wine before and liked it alot. One teeny tiny quibble is that at the midway point in the dinner when we were ready to switch to a red wine, we couldn't track the sommelier down and ended up ordering from the waiter - in fairness this was probably peak busy time of the night but would have liked to have had a little more interaction as to what wine we should have chosen.....as it was we ended up with a decent Pinot Noir.

Hmmm, I guess this isn't a short a post as I originally intended it to be.

Bottom line - we had a great meal and a great time.

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Although I am just now posting a week later, my wife and I had a wonderful meal at Citronelle over Memorial Day weekend - a much required break from Home Improvements. Many, many, many thanks to Mark for his gracious service, and for the wonderful table! We had a blast, and the highlights included:

Caviar Penguin: A wonderful way to start of a meal. I could eat the homemade blini all day as a snack (the caviar too, come to think of it)! A glass or two of champagne went extremely well with this, as well as the amuse bouche (thanks Mark!)

Lobster and Pea Bisque (me): The past few times we have been to Citronelle I've ordered the Begula pasta, and almost did this time out - I'm glad I didn't - this dish was superb!

Michel's Begula Pasta (my wife): Nothing more can be said about this dish than has already been said. It's fantastic, and I'm sure that the imitations now floating around are not as good as the original! My wife really enjoyed this dish.

Softshell Crab Compote (both): This dish was a wonderful surprise. The tempura batter was perfect, and the softshells were sublime. This was paired with a very nice riesling - thanks Mark!

Colorado Rack of Lamb (me): Superbly prepared, with excellent depth of flavor.

Halibut (my wife): My wife really, really enjoyed the halibut. She made a split decision at the time she placed her order, and I know that she loved the result, because the Halibut was gone before I could even ask for a taste!

We finished the meal with an orange souffle and the chocolate three ways. Just a wonderful meal (and experience) overall, and we can't wait to return. Thanks so much to Mark, and the rest of the staff, for a great time to recount over some (more) brickpointing the following day!

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The wife and I celebrated my 40th in high style at Citronelle. She looked lovely and was a good sport for indulging me in this extravagance. I was looking quite swave and deboner if I do say so myself. :)

I’ve been meaning to write this up for a while but I’ve struggled with how to succinctly describe our experience. All I can say is that I can scarcely imagine a better meal. I was concerned that I’d be disappointed somehow because for years I have only imagined how good Citronelle would be. Both the service and the food surpassed all of my expectations. Mr. Slater scored, what was to me, the best 2-top in the house for us and kept an eye on our table all night. His dinner suggestions and wine selections were perfect. He even gave us an entertaining tour of the kitchen before we left.

This was a evening I’ll never forget, and I now have a reason to look forward to my 50th.

PS-- I want to know the recipe for the sauce that came with the soft shell!

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Schweppes: feh. Try Hendrick's gin, ground Venezuelan quinine powder, dash of simple syrup and club soda. Available at Citronelle Bar. Garnish with lime.
My wife and I were at the Citronelle Bar on Saturday night specifically to try this drink. I only have one complaint, it should have come with instructions. The one that my wife ordered came garnished with slices of cucumber. My wife who loves cucumber, did not like it at first because the smell of the cucumber overpowered the rest of the drink. The bartender told her to take a bite of cucumber then take a drink, and suddenly the artistry of this drink became apparent.
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