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Fabio Trabocchi in New York City


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Anyone catch Fabio on Martha Stewart this morning? Very charming.

(edited to add: I meant Fabio was charming, not Martha.)

Fabio was on Martha on FLN this evening...(they replay the previous day's show the following evening on FLN) so I'm not certain if this is the same show you saw or not. Here is a link to the recipe he made, Le March Lasagne. And when you click on the Chef's name here you can watch the video. It felt like Martha gushed over him the entire segment.

Word of caution: do not watch this when you've just come home from work and are starving, and haven't been to the grocery in a few days wtih nothing in the cupboard to eat for dinner. Man that lasagna looked scrumptious!

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I cannot tell you how much I miss Fabio and Maestro. The kind of experience that was described simply NEVER happened here. Still, if Maestro was $155 prix fixe last August can you imagine how much it would be now-with the Euro @ 1.54? Fabio imported a LOT of that which he served.

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Wow... poor form...

The meal that three companions and I recently ate — including a novel carpaccio using Australian wagyu beef; a sensationally rich lasagna packed with porcini mushrooms; and a thick duck breast with a glistening slab of foie gras beside it — was excellent, its quality not necessarily out of line with its cost.

But it didn’t erase my concern that during the period when critics and diners were taking the measure of a new menu and chef, Fiamma perhaps set its prices at a level lower than it intended to keep them.

And it didn’t eliminate the need to let readers know that Fiamma is a decidedly more expensive restaurant than I and others had reported....

But the steepness of Fiamma’s price increases — instituted in increments starting in December, just after the critics had weighed in — isn’t business as usual.

Restaurant prices constantly rise, but not usually at Fiamma’s pace. At Eleven Madison Park, a three-course prix fixe is now $82; it was $76 when I awarded the restaurant three stars at the beginning of last year.

You can read the rest. Anyway Joe H should not take this as a slight against Fabio - it's the management. Let's not even get into it. Good ol' bait and switch.

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Wow... poor form...

You can read the rest. Anyway Joe H should not take this as a slight against Fabio - it's the management. Let's not even get into it. Good ol' bait and switch.

Not knowing anything about Fiamma, I can only speak to the general case. It happens all the time, in various manifestations: Prices increase, portion sizes decrease, ingredients change, staff is removed, opening hours are extended, etc. This is quite often planned in advance, before restaurants ever open their doors for the very first time. Restaurants didn't invent the game; they're just playing it to their advantage, and I don't blame them.

Of course, those annoying "online food boards" do a pretty good job at being check-and-balance watchdogs. :mellow:

That was a gutsy piece by Frank Bruni.

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To point the finger at Fiamma is ludicrous.

Why is that ludicrous? Seems like a fine public service to me. Let the readers decide whether there's nothing wrong with the practice. But they should at least be aware of it. And it's not like Fiamma was the first to get called out for jacking up the price after a nice review.

Bruni writes: "In mid-2006, just a few months after I gave the restaurant Country a three-star review, I learned that the price of a four-course prix fixe that gave diners choices within each course had risen to $110 from $85. The restaurant lowered that price after I publicly noted it." (Though he also notes that "the price has since gone up again, as have most restaurant prices over two years’ time. Country now charges $105.")

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From Grub Street:

Soho: Fabio Trabocchi has written a personal note to Bruni and has worked with B.R. Guest to lower prices across the board at Fiamma (including dropping the price of the seven-course menu from $138 to $125). Sorry to those who ate at Fiamma last week. [Diner’s Journal/NYT]

-----------------------

I also want to point out that his prices aren't much higher than they were at Maestro.

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Why is that ludicrous? Seems like a fine public service to me. Let the readers decide whether there's nothing wrong with the practice. But they should at least be aware of it. And it's not like Fiamma was the first to get called out for jacking up the price after a nice review.

Bruni writes: "In mid-2006, just a few months after I gave the restaurant Country a three-star review, I learned that the price of a four-course prix fixe that gave diners choices within each course had risen to $110 from $85. The restaurant lowered that price after I publicly noted it." (Though he also notes that "the price has since gone up again, as have most restaurant prices over two years’ time. Country now charges $105.")

Like I commented on the Eater article. Restaurants are a business like any other. If Car and Driver magazine picks a vehicle as automobile of the year is it likely the manufacturer will lower the sticker price? Of course not.

Positive reviews by experts in the field = price increase. As in any business the market will dictate the price.

Not only was this old news, but the timing was poor. Right now food prices have drastically increased which no doubt contributed to the increase also. I don't believe Fabio used that as an excuse when he recently addressed Bruni's accusations. And yes, Eleven Madison Park was mentioned in the article but only after the blunt of the accusation was placed on Fiamma.

Also, when restaurants open or have major chef changes menu prices adjust as the restaurant matures. Naturally fantastic reviews have a bearing as many other things also contribute to the adjustment.

PS. And when it comes to Country? I'll withhold comment. ;)

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If that's the case, then why didn't Fabio say that to Bruni? He should have defend the restaurant's position and explained that it's standard practice in the industry instead of caving to the pressure - which, if I'm reading the thing on Eater correctly, wasn't even driven by Bruni. "In response to guest feedback about increased menu prices at Fiamma restaurant in SoHo, B.R. Guest today announces that it will reduce the prices of the three-, five- and seven-course prix-fixe menus."

And if the cost of doing business is to blame - ie, the cost of ingredients are going up - lay it out there. Give examples. Show all work; partial credit will be given, etc.

Restaurants are a business. Sure, I get that. But I don't think there's any problem in telling consumers that a recently reviewed restaurant's proffer will now cost you 22 percent more. And to his credit, Bruni actually said re his recent meal there that it "was excellent, its quality not necessarily out of line with its cost." Diners have the data; they can now use that information however they choose.

Regarding David Chang: How much have the prices gone up at Momofuku and the Ssam Bar?

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That's great news for Fabio because he's a good guy. But ultimately the Four Seasons is notorious for being a lousy restaurant because the people who frequent the place don't really care about food. Too bad, I was hoping he would find a backer who would allow him to cook what he would like to cook. I can't imagine that will be the case at the Four Seasons. C'est la vie or however you say that in Italian.

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While not contesting Michael's StrunkandWhite-ly complaint, I will say that John (docsconz) is a very knowledgeable diner and one of the few people involved with eG for whom I have a great deal of respect.

I just wish I had the opportunity to eat at the places he does, as often as he does. (Where's that damn envy emoticon when you need it!)

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While not contesting Michael's StrunkandWhite-ly complaint, I will say that John (docsconz) is a very knowledgeable diner and one of the few people involved with eG for whom I have a great deal of respect.

I just wish I had the opportunity to eat at the places he does, as often as he does. (Where's that damn envy emoticon when you need it!)

Agree. And also could not be a nicer guy.

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In an argument your facts would certainly be winsome, and I would admit defeat, but quoting the gustatorily esteemed docsconz : "The texture of the rice was perfectly toothsome, but the dish was simply too rich and decadent."

Michael, Darling, don't you have stuff, like, to do?

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Aaaaaarrrrrrrggggggghhhhhhh...Toothsome does NOT mean "firm but yielding to the bite"!!!!!!...Stop this malasesquipedaliapropism. Stop it now!

In Doc's defense, what you're objecting to is an example of "falsi amici" or false cognates. Given his Italian heritage and culinary knowledge, he was probably thinking that grains of rice in risotto should be cooked "al dente" and simply translated that phrase in his head as "toothsome".
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We celebrated my wife's birthday at the Four Seasons two weeks ago visiting Manhattan specifically for dinner there. We had most of the courses noted above as well as several others. Three weeks prior to this we spent five hours at Joel Robuchon in Vegas which has three Michelin stars.

Fabio, at the Four Seasons, is better.

Simply, what we were served that night and in his last year here at Maestro is, at a minimum, the equal of any chef in America. Considering that the Four Seasons is a virtual cruise ship in its size it is remarkable that he can consistently plate the level of quality that he is doing.

Several dishes that the blog mentions are worth noting: "Angus Beef Carpaccio Wrapped around Tofu with Quail egg and white truffle along with an angus beef tartar in the center of the plate with a mushroom duxelle on top" was a phenominal dish. Imaginatively conceived, beautifully plated, exquisitely delicious. One of the best dishes I've tasted anywhere.

My wife thought "the Dungeness Crab wrapped in Leaf Spinach and served with salmon roe amidst a sea of crab consomme" was her favorite dish of the night. Outstanding.

But there was another course: a grilled langoustine in bouillibasse broth. I once wrote this on CH about a "traditional" bouillibasse we had at the Michelin starred L'Ane Rouge in Nice. I've also had it at L'Epuisette in Marseilles which "Johnny Apple" once raved about in a NY Times piece. In the CH review I mentioned that I make a shellfish bouillibasse-from scratch, with a fish fumet (heads, frames) that I immodestly believe is as good as either Restaurant Eve's or Yannick Cam's. Frankly, I have enough confidence in my own that I believe I can challenge anything this side of Nice.

Fabio presented a bowl with a huge, fresh, succulent langoustine splayed in the middle. A small pitcher or auburn colored broth was brought to the table and slowly poured around it, almost covering it. The waiter left the pitcher on the table.

Fabio's broth was equal to L'Ane Rouge. The langoustine was incredible-it may have been alive in the kitchen a few minutes earlier-it tasted that "fresh." But the broth, the broth!! I tasted this once before in Nice and his was its equal. There was not a drop left in the pitcher when the plates were removed.

I simply cannot tell you how badly I miss Fabio. Amtrak allows a short ride for a dining experience that is still better than anything in the D. C. area and I honestly believe is the equal of any in America. If Fabio's cuisine was in a different, smaller room I believe he is capable of being the equal of anyone in the world. He is a gift.. The Four Seasons is not my favorite room and I believe his professional wait staff still has to fully appreciate what he is presenting. Sometimes there is much to be said for the kind of passion that you find in the servers at, say, Komi and Volt. But Fabio he is a gift to us.

While Manhattan is further than Tyson's he is still worth the trip. New York is also closer than crossing the Atlantic...

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Don't know if anyone on the board follows Maria Trabocchi on Twitter (mtrabocchi) but it sounds like there is some change happening with regard to Chef Trabocchi and the Four Seasons.

Why is it that sometimes it is just not appealing to go?

about 22 hours ago from UberTwitter

Good news is that he is home!

about 23 hours ago from UberTwitter

@docsconz talk to Fabio

Four Seasons no more.... Sad news!

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"Fabio Trabocchi, the highly regarded chef who took over the kitchen at the fabled Four Seasons restaurant in October, is already gone, insiders said. Trabocchi prepared his last meals yesterday. There was no immediate word on whether he quit or was fired — or a combination of the two."

New York Post piece

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I have a few opinions on this having spent almost five hours at the Four Seasons on 12/17. I alluded to a couple of them in my post above. I stand by my analogy of this restaurant to a cruise ship.

Wasn't this one year to the day of Fiamma closing?

I only wish there was some way that Fabio could return here where he is justly appreciated. I wish him the absolute best!

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Wasn't this one year to the day of Fiamma closing?

I only wish there was some way that Fabio could return here where he is justly appreciated. I wish him the absolute best!

I believe Fiamma closed on January 14, 2009. Such a shame. I had some really memorable dinners there, including an awesome birthday celebration for an Italian friend, Fiamma la romana.

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I only wish there was some way that Fabio could return here where he is justly appreciated. I wish him the absolute best!

Well, here's what Tom Sietsema tweeted about Fabio's departure:

"Food lovers, cross your fingers. Chef Fabio Trabocchi emails me that he’s 'Looking at more than one option and DC is one of them.'"

(via Young & Hungry)

Fingers are crossed at my house! But, really, I think he'd do very well back here in DC.
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Well, here's what Tom Sietsema tweeted about Fabio's departure:

"Food lovers, cross your fingers. Chef Fabio Trabocchi emails me that he’s 'Looking at more than one option and DC is one of them.'"

(via Young & Hungry)

Rob

Man o man that would be awesome.

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Gael Greene provides more grist for the mill.... (Thanks to Y&H):

Click here

Rob

A "Marche" version of Central from Fabio would be incredible! Right price point, unique cuisine and, if done in Fairfax county, in a relative wasteland where it would be appreciated and popular. I only hope there is a chance this could happen.

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A "Marche" version of Central from Fabio would be incredible! Right price point, unique cuisine and, if done in Fairfax county, in a relative wasteland where it would be appreciated and popular. I only hope there is a chance this could happen.

Joe do you honestly think that it would be appreciated in Fairfax County? The food from the Marche does not typically come to mind as Italian to the general population.

Personally I think a lower price point restaurant would be a great way to expose folks to some interesting cooking.

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