Juanita's Restaurant

[Al Dente]

I had a good dinner on the cheap here last night. Started off with a couple of pupusas ($1.50) with pork and cheese. I'm no expert on pupusas, but I enjoyed their corny crisp exterior and piping hot gooey filling. Next time I'll try the loroco-filled variety as I had never even heard of this ingredient. Next up, a pork chop smothered in onions and tomatoes served with frijoles, rice, and salad ($9.50). This was some tasty comfort food-- I liked the sliced onions almost as much as the pork. Typically, when I've had El Salvadorean food, I'll complain about rice that seemed reheated from days ago, an all-pervading greasiness on all the items in the platter, and a lack of distinct flavors. This was not the case here. Even the dull salad of shredded iceburg was at least freshly chopped up and crispy with a decent creamy dressing.

I was a little charmed by the place. True, it ain't much to look at, but Juanita's family sat at a table nearby watching (and participating in) the Central American equivalent of Family Feud on the tube. The unpredictable jukebox would suddenly blurt out latin music at considerable volume. And their 3-year old boy, prompted by mama, bashfully brought me my check.

1 block east of Frederick on Redland-- near the tattoo shop.