Tom Sietsema's Reviews

[Waitman]

Well sure--I write and edit for a living, too. (Not food, though, because I'm not particularly good at it.) But is it so hard to say it's "a pepper sauce" rather than--EVERY TIME--"a sauce enlivened by peppers"? (Add this one to the peeve list, dmwine!) And if you're just talking word count, I've found most of the painful descriptors actually add column inches anyway, so no juice there.

It's is indeed possible to do this without sucking all the life out of it--I mean, read Bruni or Bauer. These guys write engaging, terrific reviews with nary a lap, nap, or tuck to be found.

I don't want to pile on; I actually have very little problem with his reviews, opinion-wise. I'm just picky about professional writing and find them hard to read at times.

Bruni! Now that's a guy whose a parody of himself. He may not lap, nap or tuck, but he has his own twitches, too.

I respectfully disagree on the descriptors. I think that, more often than not, they are an attempt to smoosh several words into one. "Lapped" instead of "sitting in." And a pepper sauce is different from a non-pepper sauce that has, nonetheless, been "enlivened."

Ha. Should have known you were a writer/editor. There are few people in the world (and I am one, just not regarding Tom) who can get this exercized at that level of detail, who aren't in the biz. At the next Rox bash we can get together and argue infinitive-splitting and adjective abuse over whatever wine DNWine reccomends.

This post has been edited because it's being read by an editor and I still can't type.

[JLK]

The reason I sympathize is that -- having written a few reviews for various boards and the kind of low-rent publications that pay by the word and fire good editors -- I think there's a finite, and not particularly large, number of food-friendly adjectives. That on-line thesaurus only takes you so far.

You took the words right out of my mouth. Hello, Rich, if you're reading.

Although I have also said "If Tom uses 'haunting' one more time..." I try to stop myself from completing the thought because it really is hard. Yes, it's Tom's career, but he writes about food and there is a somewhat-limited vocabulary (which he stretches) that comes with this specific territory.

[Stretch]

There are few people in the world (and I am one, just not regarding Tom) who can get this exercized at that level of detail, who aren't in the biz.

Honestly, regarding the general state of restaurant criticism, can there be another quasi-journalistic endeavour more ripe for a Gonzo-style reinvention? Is there any other area of artistic expression where the grittiness of the average practitioner is more distantly removed from the prissiness of the average critic?

[Miami Danny]

Honestly, regarding the general state of restaurant criticism, can there be another quasi-journalistic endeavour more ripe for a Gonzo-style reinvention? Is there any other area of artistic expression where the grittiness of the average practitioner is more distantly removed from the prissiness of the average critic?

Gritty v. Prissy?

[Miami Danny]

Honestly, regarding the general state of restaurant criticism, can there be another quasi-journalistic endeavour more ripe for a Gonzo-style reinvention? Is there any other area of artistic expression where the grittiness of the average practitioner is more distantly removed from the prissiness of the average critic?

But there really is no 'average' practitioner; nor is there an 'average' critic. Are you calling, say, Ann Cashion, 'gritty'? Or, say, Tom Sietsema, 'prissy'? Just curious

Unfortunately, restaurant criticism and food writing in general are genre writing, and, like, say, science-fiction, or horror, very few can transcend its limitations. What annoys me more is when reviewers feel the need to spend time talking about a menu item that isn't going to be available for six months!

[Stretch]

I stand, as ever, by both my inadequate analogies and insulting over-generalizations.

But I think we are on the same page with respect to the limitations of the genre, as you so much more artfully defined the problem.

[Miami Danny]

Bruni! Now that's a guy whose a parody of himself. He may not lap, nap or tuck, but he has his own twitches, too.

Trash Bruni all you want, but at least read Bruni's NYT review of Lonesome Dove from Wednesday, and compare to TS review of JHS. 'Nuff said.

[Heather]

Trash Bruni all you want, but at least read Bruni's NYT review of Lonesome Dove from Wednesday, and compare to TS review of JHS. 'Nuff said.

So you're asking us to choose between theatrically overblown vs. "phoning it in", right?

[Miami Danny]

So you're asking us to choose between theatrically overblown vs. "phoning it in", right?

Exactly! Hey, I'd like to be entertained as well as informed. Bruni's review definitely contains a bit of corn, but so does the place he's reviewing. It's an easy read from start to finish, and I learned something about the chef and his wacky ways. On the other hand, Tom is so enamored of the pastry chef, he never even explains who Ann Cashion is! And his references (NASCAR-esque, little black dresses) are simply puzzling or weird.

[Heather]

I noticed that he didn't mention who Ann Cashion is, but maybe it's because Johnny's is an already existing restaurant in a new location and the pastry chef is a new addition.

[cjsadler]

Is there any other area of artistic expression where the grittiness of the average practitioner is more distantly removed from the prissiness of the average critic?

Probably because the grittiness of the kitchen is so distantly removed from the prissiness of the dining room.

[Mark Slater]

Trash Bruni all you want, but at least read Bruni's NYT review of Lonesome Dove from Wednesday, and compare to TS review of JHS. 'Nuff said.

After reading Bruni's reviews, it is always entertaining to read his own personal parodist's take on the review, too. Click -->Bruni Digest

[Heather]

After reading Bruni's reviews, it is always entertaining to read his own personal parodist's take on the review, too. Click -->Bruni Digest

Yes, Bruni Digest is choice. Maybe Miami Danny could start a similar site for Sietsema?

And the review of Lonesome Dove went beyond cornpone - the crack about "the Outback and maybe even Brokeback" had me searching the review for info on which night they offer square dancing.

[qwertyy]

Ha. Should have known you were a writer/editor. There are few people in the world (and I am one, just not regarding Tom) who can get this exercized at that level of detail, who aren't in the biz. At the next Rox bash we can get together and argue infinitive-splitting and adjective abuse over whatever wine DNWine reccomends.

I know, I know. It's my own special little hell. I also give demerits to menus with typos.

After a glass of wine, I prefer to discuss the finer points of comma use. That's why people don't invite me to parties anymore.

[Waitman]

I know, I know. It's my own special little hell. I also give demerits to menus with typos.

Regardless (almost said "irregardless just to tweak you) of their content, my typo-laden posts must cause you physical pain.

[qwertyy]

Regardless (almost said "irregardless just to tweak you) of their content, my typo-laden posts must cause you physical pain.

Nah. Typos in chat rooms don't bother me. I'm quite sure my own posts feature plenty of misspellings, awkward phrasings, and other mortal CMOS violations. Point being, this is for fun, not for work. I've got different standards for that, thus the frustration with Post reviews.

(However, "irregardless" in any context does make me sigh. Ironical, no? )

[Heather]

Oh, get a room, you two.

The point made above that there are only so many food-friendly adjectives is a good one. I can think of several that I don't want to see describing my appetizer.

[porcupine]

I can think of several that I don't want to see describing my appetizer.

"Oozing", for example? To me that word connotes, well, open sores, not yumminess.

[Heather]

"Barnyard" and all words associated with it.

At least Sietsema avoids "buttery" which Phyllis Richman beat to death during her tenure.

[Mark Slater]

(However, "irregardless" in any context does make me sigh. Ironical, no? )

I think "irregardless" has been replaced by the equally excruciating malapropism "not for nothing".

[dmwine]

"Oozing", for example? To me that word connotes, well, open sores, not yumminess.

What if it's oozing cheese?

I can see a bias against "suppurating" for sure ...

Slater must have seen a bunch of cliches in his time, like halibut "napped in a vibrant lemon verbena sauce."

Oh wait, been there, done that ...

[dmwine]

Oh, get a room, you two.

I'm thinking I could make this a threesome, and that's really gruesome. What we need here is a serial comma killer ...

qwertyy, how do you feel about never/nonetheless?

[Mark Slater]

What if it's oozing cheese?

I can see a bias against "suppurating" for sure ...

Slater must have seen a bunch of cliches in his time, like halibut "napped in a vibrant lemon verbena sauce."

Oh wait, been there, done that ...

Napped, lapped and tucking into are the three that I detest. A chacun son goût.

[DHagedorn]

What if it's oozing cheese?

I can see a bias against "suppurating" for sure ...

Slater must have seen a bunch of cliches in his time, like halibut "napped in a vibrant lemon verbena sauce."

Oh wait, been there, done that ...

"Napped" is not exactly a cliche; it refers to an actual technique in which a sauce is carefully applied to something in coats, spoonful by spoonful, to create a specific effect and achieve a particular balance. The word is quite evocative because it induces the reader to conjure the image of someone performing an action that is more refined than, say, ladling or covering. By the way, "napper" is a transitive verb, so the nappee is nappeed "with" a sauce rather than "in" one.

[Heather]

"Napped" is not exactly a cliche; it refers to an actual technique in which a sauce is carefully applied to something in coats, spoonful by spoonful, to create a specific effect and achieve a particular balance.

Good point David, it's not fair to fault a writer for using a word that describes a particular technique. An online glossary of french culinary terms defines Napper as: "to completely coat or mask with a sauce"

[Stretch]

Good point David, it's not fair to fault a writer for using a word that describes a particular technique. An online glossary of french culinary terms defines Napper as: "to completely coat or mask with a sauce"

In that case, I can't wait until he next encounters rice, couscous or sabayon and is obliged to use "fluffy" again.

[jparrott]

"I tucked into Tom Power's perfectly-seared scallops, oozing with flavor, the perfect pillow for the fluffy nap of dreamy mashed potatoes and wine sauce."

[Heather]

"I tucked into Tom Power's perfectly-seared scallops, oozing with flavor, the perfect pillow for the fluffy nap of dreamy mashed potatoes and wine sauce."

I would call that fluffing.

Seriously, Sietsema won a prestigious award this year, which suggests he using those cliches right.

[qwertyy]

qwertyy, how do you feel about never/nonetheless?

I think that if we turn this into a grammar discussion, Don will "tuck" us into a dungeon.

Seriously, Sietsema won a prestigious award this year, which suggests he using those cliches right.

Seriously, Titanic won the Oscar for best picture in 1998. Award shmaward.

[Heather]

Seriously, Titanic won the Oscar for best picture in 1998. Award shmaward.

Hey man, I'm not saying that their taste is better than ours, just that the job is much harder than his armchair critics suggest.

[dmwine]

Good point David, it's not fair to fault a writer for using a word that describes a particular technique. An online glossary of french culinary terms defines Napper as: "to completely coat or mask with a sauce"

Oh great, then I've even misused it. Now I have to search out every darn copy of the magazine and cross out "napped with" and scribble "sits in a puddle of .."

[jparrott]

That's "luxuriates in" to you, buddy.

[Miami Danny]

I'm just wondering, after today's 'mini-review' of BLT in The Weekly Dish, if the format of TWD may be changing from general puff piece/press release type info, to full-on rush review? Perhaps the Post is feeling the need to relax their standards in order to get there first? According to Tom, he waits a certain period of time and eats at least several times at a place prior to his reviews. I guess that kind of seems quaint these days?

[jparrott]

And to you restaurateurs out there, does this new and improved TWD provide useful feedback that allows you to improve in time for the full-on WaPo mag review?

[DonRocks]

And to you restaurateurs out there, does this new and improved TWD provide useful feedback that allows you to improve in time for the full-on WaPo mag review?

I may start issuing insta-reviews of new places just so Tom and Todd stop. Those two are better served being the critics of record, not being first out of the block. Tom's review of Le Paradou should be a model for him to follow in the future.

A police officer once told me, "you can't outrun a radio," and I think the public would benefit if Tom and Todd would both stop trying to do so. Not to mention that restaurants wouldn't be putting on the 90-day push, only to drastically change when the initial review season has ended.

Who cares how good BLT is right now? It's six months from now that really matters. And print journalists have only one shot to get it right. Best for them to be leisurely and accurate than quick-to-the-draw and wrong.

Cheers,

Rocks.

[Meaghan]

And print journalists have only one shot to get it right. Best for them to be leisurely and accurate than quick-to-the-draw and wrong.

Cheers,

Rocks.

What do you mean? Newspapers and magazines have websites --that's where most people go these days.

Tears,

Megz

[DanielK]

Who cares how good BLT is right now? It's six months from now that really matters. And print journalists have only one shot to get it right. Best for them to be leisurely and accurate than quick-to-the-draw and wrong.

This is what's always killed me about their rush to quick reviews for new "significant" restaurants. We all know that most of these places are much different 6 months after opening, yet they are unlikely to re-review the place for YEARS. Meanwhile, the review, which could easily understate the quality of a place by several points on their respective rating scales, sits out there chasing off diners for a very long time...

[crackers]

When Tom came onto dr.com to chat with us last year I asked him about that and about updating the website:

How often will you go back to check that your former reviews are still accurate? For instance, will it be sooner if you get word that something has gone seriously downhill or uphill, and will the star rating be updated on the website more than annually if that turns out to be the case?

He graciously addressed the former, but did not mention updating reviews (or star ratings) on the website. I agree with Meaghan that this would be very useful - an interim measure between print reviews and/or annual dining guides. [something as simple as an "Alert" below the existing website City Guide restaurant review would help. e.g. to mention a new chef, new direction in the menu, new pricing structure, new corkage policy etc.]

I make it a point to drop by previously-reviewed restaurants as much as my time and expense account allow. If there are major changes, I might re-review a place, as I did with Kinkead's and Vidalia. Otherwise, I can write about any new findings on my weekly Wednesday chat. ...

Maybe Tom would be nice enough to come back for another chat?

[dmwine]

I'm just wondering, after today's 'mini-review' of BLT in The Weekly Dish, if the format of TWD may be changing from general puff piece/press release type info, to full-on rush review? Perhaps the Post is feeling the need to relax their standards in order to get there first? According to Tom, he waits a certain period of time and eats at least several times at a place prior to his reviews. I guess that kind of seems quaint these days?

Tom has frequently visited a restaurant immediately after opening to give an "amuse" of sorts in TWD. It's the newsy part of his job. Then he waits before making a "formal" review visit. I don't think he's doing anyone a disservice this way. I can't think of the name of the place right now, but there was one in Vienna earlier this year that IIRC he wrote a disparaging TWD, and when the review came out 6-8 weeks later, things had calmed down and he was able to write more favorably.

As for the "rush" reviews as Kliman and Sietsema try to outdo each other, that could be a reason - ahem - to look at reviews in other publications that are not trying to rush things and scoop anyone else.

[oliveDC]

I keep meaning to ask this in a chat, but I could have sworn Tom used to give a place three months before reviewing. I could be mistaken. Now he regularly says one month. Is my memory failing me?

[DonRocks]

Tom Sietsema: Well, I'm sitting on a VERY JUICY piece of gossip, but I can't confirm it right now. All I'm getting from the owner of the Big Deal Restaurant is a "no comment."

So. Which beloved restaurant would YOU hate to see close?

I guaranTEE Tom's piece of gossip isn't as juicy as what I heard today.

Wow.

And nobody has asked me to keep anything quiet yet, either...

[blakegwinn]

I guaranTEE Tom's piece of gossip isn't as juicy as what I heard today.

Wow.

And nobody has asked me to keep anything quiet yet, either...

I suggest getting it out before somebody does ask.

[mdt]

I keep meaning to ask this in a chat, but I could have sworn Tom used to give a place three months before reviewing. I could be mistaken. Now he regularly says one month. Is my memory failing me?

Nope. I remember that little factiod myself. I wonder if I can find it on Google?

[Waitman]

Nope. I remember that little factiod myself. I wonder if I can find it on Google?

Or search the Post directly.

ETA -- though sometimes google searches work better than the Post's internal search.

[youngfood]

Ok, I'll bite...

I guaranTEE Tom's piece of gossip isn't as juicy as what I heard today.

Wow.

And nobody has asked me to keep anything quiet yet, either...

Then surely you should come out with it already!

[jparrott]

I guaranTEE Tom's piece of gossip isn't as juicy as what I heard today.

Todd Kliman, PGA Tour player next year?

[TedE]

This week: a sampling of soups

But ... no pho?!?!

[JPW]

This week: a sampling of soups

But ... no pho?!?!

The beef noodle soup at Joe's is pretty pho-like. Take away the chili oil and you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference.

[TedE]

The beef noodle soup at Joe's is pretty pho-like. Take away the chili oil and you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference.

I guess you're right (confession: I've never been to Joe's), but as I was reading I kept expecting the next entry to be about a place in Seven Corners. Tom really does seem to love his pho, and those places get a lot of press from him, so maybe he decided to spread the wealth.

edit: errr, thanks, JG.

[qwertyy]

And a $19 bowl of soup at Mourayo. Is goat really that expensive? What makes this stuff so precious?