Tom Sietsema's Reviews

[Mark Slater]

This week: a sampling of soups

But ... no pho?!?!

I found Eve Zibart's article about Shabu-Shabu

far more interesting.

[zoramargolis]

And Shrimp Dumpling soup at Full Kee. Without noodles--you get more dumplings that way. And a bargain, to boot.

[CrescentFresh]

Let this be the line that finally points out that what Tom Sietsema experiences in a restaurant is in no way reflective of the rest of planet Earth. Speaking of Bebo, Tom writes:

You can point your finger anywhere on the menu, augmented with a dozen daily specials, and come up with a success story.

You can read that line here: http://www.washingtonpost.com/ac2/wp-dyn?n...ies=Restaurants

(I'd have embedded the weblink but I don't know how to do it anymore on this new setup on the board. Can anyone help?)

Bullshit! Horseshit! Donkeyshit! Alpacashit! Wapatishit!

I have eaten at Bebo with dozens of people since it has opened. I have also heard stories from people I haven't eaten with there, but have told me about their experience. Not everyone is a member of this board. 99 and 44/100ths percent of non-professional food critics will tell you, the menu, augmented with a dozen daily specials, is a minefield! And beyond that, the same dishes are sometimes completely different on every visit. For example, my favorite dish is the paccheri, which is served with a pork sauce. This dish has wavered between being the greatest pasta plate I've ever had, to one that gives new meaning to "rustic," the sauce being jammed with so many bones and chunks of cartilige you'd think it was made from robbing the elephant's graveyard.

There are dishes that are done really well, and there are dishes that are done really poorly. And, frankly, you never know which dish is going to be the winner on any given day. But all of them are "a success story?" Later in the review he makes a most feeble qualification by saying, "give or take a dish." But, please! At least he had the common decency to deservedly blast their poor service.

I'm sorry, but if this review does not, once and for all point out that Tom Sietsema is clearly a recognized individual who consistently is given experiences completely unlike the rest of us then....I'll eat my hat. Seriously, how many people on this board have eaten at Bebo and are right behind the statement that "you can point your finger anywhere on the menu...and come up with a success story" ?????

[DonRocks]

Mr. Sietsema's despertate Mad-Lib Bebo flattery is a scribbled blight in the year's final WashPoMag.

Gee I was going to write the guy and tell him that his reviews keep getting better and better (amuse-bouche piece aside, which really was more column-worthy ten years ago).

Personally, I think Todd Kliman was just the spark Tom Sietsema needed, the hungry youngster going after the unchallenged veteran. Neither would admit the other is a rival, but oh yes, my friends, oh yes, and how I enjoy stirring the pot.

High drama, Hyde rama, Hide, Rama. Hi, Drama!

Rocks.

[Barbara]

I stopped reading at the point where he wrote about a rabbit dish,". . . the skin was crisp. . ." (emphasis mine)! Say, WHAT?

[mdt]

I stopped reading at the point where he wrote about a rabbit dish,". . . the skin was crisp. . ." (emphasis mine)! Say, WHAT?

Um, I think he meant the batter.

The sleeper on the standing script is rabbit, chopped into bite-size pieces, marinated in an herbed batter and fried so that the skin is crisp and the meat retains its juices.

[Poivrot Farci]

Gee I was going to write the guy and tell him that his reviews keep getting better and better

Pink slices of impressive beef, hidden beneath a lawn of arugula...

Clearly Mr. Siestsema's subliminal vocabulary enhancing tapes are working.

...offered with slices of charred bread is more rustic...

Mr. Pulitzer would no doubt high-five the Machiavellian delineation of burnt toast.

...Donna's snail-shaped swirl of pork sausage

and low-five on the flip-side his whimsical dumb-down of a spiral.

[dmwine]

Maybe Tom got a Thesaurus for Christmas!

And Don, this is one pot that benefits everyone for stirring, even if you're only stirring in the center.

Happy New Year from the crust on the edge of the pot ...

[Heather]

Mr. Pulitzer would no doubt high-five the Machiavellian delineation of burnt toast.

I can burn toast at home. Charred bread implies technique.

[jparrott]

Charred bread is an essential flavor component of great red wine. So sayeth Robert Parker, and who are we to argue?

[Tujague]

This is being printed on Sunday 1/14. Lead time for the magazine is probably 3-4 weeks, so he submitted this article somewhere between the 15th and 22nd of December. They didn't open the restaurant until 11/20. That means ALL of his visits were within the first month of opening, and perhaps even started the first week.

Lead time at the magazine has tightened up considerably in the last couple of years, particularly for columns--it's more like 2 weeks or less now. That's not to say he didn't fudge at all on his stated "one month" rule, but the math doesn't necessarily work out the way you think. And I didn't see much here that would necessarily change over 90 days instead of 30 days. I mean, how many restaurants of any nationality whose recipes tend to get spicier or more flavorful over time? It's usually the other way around. And the service comments weren't "opening month jitters" type offenses.

[DanielK]

Lead time at the magazine has tightened up considerably in the last couple of years, particularly for columns--it's more like 2 weeks or less now. That's not to say he didn't fudge at all on his stated "one month" rule, but the math doesn't necessarily work out the way you think. And I didn't see much here that would necessarily change over 90 days instead of 30 days. I mean, how many restaurants of any nationality whose recipes tend to get spicier or more flavorful over time? It's usually the other way around. And the service comments weren't "opening month jitters" type offenses.

Even two weeks means the article went in on 12/29, so unless all of the visits were between 12/20 and 12/29, he clearly visited in the first month.

And looking at all of the significant restaurants that have opened in the area in the past year, I would say that many of them had moderately substantial changes to menu and service well into the 3rd or 4th month after opening.

[Escoffier]

Even two weeks means the article went in on 12/29, so unless all of the visits were between 12/20 and 12/29, he clearly visited in the first month.

And looking at all of the significant restaurants that have opened in the area in the past year, I would say that many of them had moderately substantial changes to menu and service well into the 3rd or 4th month after opening.

After reading the TS "review", it's obvious that he knows nothing about Korean food or what to expect. The difference between dolsot bibimbap and bibimbap? Two dollars..oh yeah and a "hot showboat". Erm, does stone pot mean anything to you Tom? Nobody tells you that you should mix the bibimbap with the red bean paste and stir everything up? When a Korean goes to an American restaurant, does anyone tell them how to eat American food? You couldn't ask your server? I'd suggest the next time you attempt to review a Korean restaurant you take a Korean along. If you don't know any, give us a call, we'll find one for you.

(let the B&M begin)

[DonRocks]

After reading the TS "review", it's obvious that he knows nothing about Korean food or what to expect. The difference between dolsot bibimbap and bibimbap? Two dollars..oh yeah and a "hot showboat". Erm, does stone pot mean anything to you Tom? Nobody tells you that you should mix the bibimbap with the red bean paste and stir everything up? When a Korean goes to an American restaurant, does anyone tell them how to eat American food? You couldn't ask your server? I'd suggest the next time you attempt to review a Korean restaurant you take a Korean along. If you don't know any, give us a call, we'll find one for you.

I'm going to defend Tom here. He said:

Another reason I'll be back is the bibimbap. For an extra $2, you can eat it from a big stone bowl, and my suggestion is to splurge. The entree comes to the table crackling and popping -- the sounds of warm rice sizzling against the sides of a hot showboat. Arranged on the surface of the rice are julienned carrot, sliced mushrooms, slivers of beef and a sunny yellow egg. Before eating, a diner is supposed to gently blend the ingredients, along with zippy red bean paste, to taste, although nobody told us that when we ordered the dish.

What is wrong with this? He's writing for a large audience here, hundreds of thousands of people, most of whom would get that dish and immediately start digging in without even adding the sauce - I assure you Tom knows to mix up his bibim bap, dolsot or otherwise.

Just this week, I was slapped by an editor because I used the term "price point." When you write for a general publication you have to tone it down and explain things, even when they're second nature to you.

Cheers,

Rocks.

[mame11]

After reading the TS "review", it's obvious that he knows nothing about Korean food or what to expect. The difference between dolsot bibimbap and bibimbap? Two dollars..oh yeah and a "hot showboat". Erm, does stone pot mean anything to you Tom? Nobody tells you that you should mix the bibimbap with the red bean paste and stir everything up? When a Korean goes to an American restaurant, does anyone tell them how to eat American food? You couldn't ask your server? I'd suggest the next time you attempt to review a Korean restaurant you take a Korean along. If you don't know any, give us a call, we'll find one for you.

(let the B&M begin)

Um, actually the first time I had Korean food at a restaurant they did tell me how to stir everything. Additionally, I have been to "American" restaurants where servers have explained how to eat a dish. In fact, I recall visits to Japanese restaurants where the servers have explained something about the eating of the food when it was delivered to the table.

I haven't read the review but it seems to me that providing an explanation or asking if you need one is part of the customer service servers provide.

[Escoffier]

The first time I went to a Korean restaurant they explained everything to me. They still do! It is just courtesy, customer service and pride in their dishes. Tom is doing the same thing here! The majority of people in this area have never eaten Korean food. Different circles you know. I would be very happy as a (insert nationality here) that Tom gave a good review and took time to educate the public of my national cuisine.

To quote from the article, "Before eating, a diner is supposed to gently blend the ingredients, along with zippy red bean paste, to taste, although nobody told us that when we ordered the dish."

Sure sounds to me like he knows what he's talking about...and nice that he knows everything about pajun...white indeed...and made with buckwheat, OMG!!! He does a nice job on American food, perhaps he should stick with that...or ask someone who knows about the food to accompany him when he leaves his comfort zone (or stick with pajun and bibimbap now that he knows to mix it before eating).

[RaisaB]

Exactly his point. He has eaten Korean food before and he was explaining to his readers what you do. Maybe I am missing something here? Why would this article offend you? Should he take an Italian, Indian, Ethiopian, Cuban, etc, everytime he eats at an ethnic restaurant? Most people are not foodies, they appreciate his knowledge, however flawed it may be.

[Escoffier]

Exactly his point. He has eaten Korean food before and he was explaining to his readers what you do. Maybe I am missing something here? Why would this article offend you? Should he take an Italian, Indian, Ethiopian, Cuban, etc, everytime he eats at an ethnic restaurant? Most people are not foodies, they appreciate his knowledge, however flawed it may be.

Perhaps I'm reading a different article than you, however I fail to see where he categorically states that "nobody told us that when we ordered the dish" equates to having any idea what he's doing when it comes to eating bibimbap. The article doesn't offend me, the lack of knowledge of what he's writing about does. I'm always happy to see anyone eat and write about Korean food, I happen to think when you're the 'expert', you should have a bit of an idea just what it is you're an expert on...

[Waitman]

Perhaps I'm reading a different article than you, however I fail to see where he categorically states that "nobody told us that when we ordered the dish" equates to having any idea what he's doing when it comes to eating bibimbap. The article doesn't offend me, the lack of knowledge of what he's writing about does. I'm always happy to see anyone eat and write about Korean food, I happen to think when you're the 'expert', you should have a bit of an idea just what it is you're an expert on...

Take two Midol and call me in the morning.

--Dr. Wait

[johnb]

Perhaps I'm reading a different article than you, however I fail to see where he categorically states that "nobody told us that when we ordered the dish" equates to having any idea what he's doing when it comes to eating bibimbap. The article doesn't offend me, the lack of knowledge of what he's writing about does. I'm always happy to see anyone eat and write about Korean food, I happen to think when you're the 'expert', you should have a bit of an idea just what it is you're an expert on...

How do you know he doesn't. He isn't writing the article for you, who is already knowledgeable about the cuisine, and one may ask, why are you even reading it, to validate your own viewpoint? Rather, he is writing for a wider audience, most of whom don't know, and would be helped if the waiter did give some explanation. As such, the wording in original review (if I understand it correctly) was perfectly valid; he was pointing out that either the waiter erred in not doing so (for the hapless westerner), or the diner needs to be careful because he is not likely to get much help from the waitstaff. Either way it seems fine to me. Whether he himself already knew is quite irrelevant. He's doing his job by saying what he said.

[hm212]

Just this week, I was slapped by an editor because I used the term "price point." When you write for a general publication you have to tone it down and explain things, even when they're second nature to you.

And we wonder why Johnny can't read. Dumbing things down let Johnny skate.

[Waitman]

Just this week, I was slapped by an editor because I used the term "price point." When you write for a general publication you have to tone it down and explain things, even when they're second nature to you.

Cheers,

Rocks.

And we wonder why Johnny can't read. Dumbing things down let Johnny skate.

Actually, having had many writing jobs that involve translating bureaucrat-ese and wonk-speak into general purpose English, I can testify to the importance of leaving insider jargon behind and writing in language that a layman can unserstand. This isn't "dumbing down." This is good writing.

(quertyy: got anything to add?)

[qwertyy]

Actually, having had many writing jobs that involve translating bureaucrat-ese and wonk-speak into general purpose English, I can testify to the importance of leaving insider jargon behind and writing in language that a layman can unserstand. This isn't "dumbing down." This is good writing.

(quertyy: got anything to add?)

Amen to that, my brutha!

Why, just the other day I found myself thinking "agricultural input provider" was a perfectly reasonable phrase. Then I snapped out of it and realized how badly I needed a vacation and a good book.

[Jacques Gastreaux]

"agricultural input provider"

What does this translate to; "manure spreader?"

[bilrus]

What does this translate to; "manure spreader?"

No, that's an agricultural output distributor.

[Escoffier]

Take two Midol and call me in the morning.--Dr. Wait

You mean you have some left over after restaurant week?

[Escoffier]

How do you know he doesn't.

Because he said he didn't. I'm going to type this very slowly so you won't have to move your lips very fast...(quoting in BOLD so you can see what TS said; he categorically states that; To quote from the article, "Before eating, a diner is supposed to gently blend the ingredients, along with zippy red bean paste, to taste, although nobody told us that when we ordered the dish." equates to having any idea what he's doing when it comes to eating bibimbap. Now, if somehow you take that to mean he knows everything in the world about eating bibimbap, I have some oceanfront acreage I'd like to sell you in Las Vegas. If he knows how to eat bibimbap (love typing that word), he could simply have stated to his guest(s), "you should mix it all up and add the bean paste to eat it the way Koreans do" (or words to that effect)...seems to me, that would show the hoi polloi that he both knows how to eat correctly and help educate the unwashed masses. When Grover and I read this review the first time, we both got the impression that this was a person who had never eaten Korean food before. Bibimbap is one of the most common Korean foods served and eaten by Americans.

He isn't writing the article for you, who is already knowledgeable about the cuisine, and one may ask, why are you even reading it, to validate your own viewpoint?

No (and please don't project your inanities onto me, how could you have any idea what my viewpoint happens to be?), I happened to be reading it to see if it might be a good site for a $20 Tuesday. After reading the review, I wasn't too sure. After a trip to Mandu today, I found the food to be very good and Danny Lee to be a very good host (who would explain anything on the menu...he even asked after we ordered in Korean).

Rather, he is writing for a wider audience, most of whom don't know, and would be helped if the waiter did give some explanation. As such, the wording in original review (if I understand it correctly) was perfectly valid; he was pointing out that either the waiter erred in not doing so (for the hapless westerner), or the diner needs to be careful because he is not likely to get much help from the waitstaff. Either way it seems fine to me. Whether he himself already knew is quite irrelevant. He's doing his job by saying what he said.

So, let me get this straight, for some reason he was struck dumb and couldn't bring himself to say to the waiter, "Say Fred, how do you eat this stuff, anyway? I heard you toss it with salad tongs and mix it with seltzer water, is that correct?" Have you ever been presented with a dish that you've never eaten before and asked how to eat it correctly? Still trying to eat cereal with a fork? How's that working out? Communication has to go both ways. Someone didn't communicate and it wasn't the waiter (here's a hint: the person who didn't communicate is named Tom).

[Waitman]

Perhaps I'm reading a different article than you, however I fail to see where he categorically states that "nobody told us that when we ordered the dish" equates to having any idea what he's doing when it comes to eating bibimbap. The article doesn't offend me, the lack of knowledge of what he's writing about does. I'm always happy to see anyone eat and write about Korean food, I happen to think when you're the 'expert', you should have a bit of an idea just what it is you're an expert on...

Take two Midol and call me in the morning.

--Dr. Wait

You mean you have some left over after restaurant week?

You know, I get aggravated enough without going out of my way to piss myself off. So I avoid both Restaurant Week and deeply analytic readings of the local food critic. Better for the digestion (and the lower back).

Cheers.

[johnb]

Because he said he didn't. I'm going to type this very slowly so you won't have to move your lips very fast...(quoting in BOLD so you can see what TS (BS?) said; he categorically states that "nobody told us that when we ordered the dish" equates to having any idea what he's doing when it comes to eating bibimbap. Now, if somehow you take that to mean he knows everything in the world about eating bibimbap, I have some oceanfront acreage I'd like to sell you in Las Vegas. If he knows how to eat bibimbap (love typing that word), he could simply have stated to his guest(s), "you should mix it all up and add the bean paste to eat it the way Koreans do" (or words to that effect)...seems to me, that would show the hoi polloi that he both knows how to eat correctly and help educate the unwashed masses.

Well, if you read the entire sentence from the original review, of which you have only been quoting the second half, it says:

"Before eating, a diner is supposed to gently blend the ingredients, along with zippy red bean paste, to taste, although nobody told us that when we ordered the dish."

It is not clear to me how you can infer from the sentence that he doesn't know that, before eating, a diner is supposed to gently blend the ingredients, along with the zippy bean paste, to taste. To the contrary, it says the exact opposite.

It appears to me that this diatribe of yours is ill-founded and unsupported, and anyway amounts mostly to an attempt to sully the Post food critic and, in so doing, place your own knowledge and expertise at a higher level. It's in poor taste and it won't fly.

[Escoffier]

Well, if you read the entire sentence from the original review, of which you have only been quoting the second half, it says:

"Before eating, a diner is supposed to gently blend the ingredients, along with zippy red bean paste, to taste, although nobody told us that when we ordered the dish."

It is not clear to me how you can infer from the sentence that he doesn't know that, before eating, a diner is supposed to gently blend the ingredients, along with the zippy bean paste, to taste. To the contrary, it says the exact opposite.

It appears to me that this diatribe of yours is ill-founded and unsupported, and anyway amounts mostly to an attempt to sully the Post food critic and, in so doing, place your own knowledge and expertise at a higher level. It's in poor taste and it won't fly.

Tell you what, this is my last attempt at teaching reading comprehension....here is the original sentence (quoted by you above)."Before eating, a diner is supposed to gently blend the ingredients, along with zippy red bean paste, to taste, although nobody told us that when we ordered the dish."

Now, let's take the second phrase and put it in the beginning where it can go quite as well...and ergo: Although nobody told us that when we ordered the dish, before eating, a diner is supposed to gently blend the ingredients, along with zippy red bean paste, to taste. Now, I'm going to ask, does this sound like prior knowledge to you? I'm not a grammarian (even though I play one in real life), but neither the meaning nor the content of his statement have been changed. One simply has to read the words from the review and draw one's own conclusion. If TS is saying that nobody stood at their table and instructed them how to eat every dish presented, then I could see the forced conclusion that TS was being benificent and attempting to educate in the fine art of Eating Korean. I have no intention of sullying TS, why should I? His stuff is out there for anyone with the wherewithal to buy a Post. I hardly think that anything either of us say will amount to more than a flea on an elephant. (and my Korean food knowledge and expertise probably is at a higher level than his...I'll cede Chicago and Portland to him however )

[mdt]

Tell you what, this is my last attempt at teaching reading comprehension....here is the original sentence (quoted by you above)."Before eating, a diner is supposed to gently blend the ingredients, along with zippy red bean paste, to taste, although nobody told us that when we ordered the dish."

Now, let's take the second phrase and put it in the beginning where it can go quite as well...and ergo: Although nobody told us that when we ordered the dish, before eating, a diner is supposed to gently blend the ingredients, along with zippy red bean paste, to taste. Now, I'm going to ask, does this sound like prior knowledge to you? I'm not a grammarian (even though I play one in real life), but neither the meaning nor the content of his statement have been changed. One simply has to read the words from the review and draw one's own conclusion. If TS is saying that nobody stood at their table and instructed them how to eat every dish presented, then I could see the forced conclusion that TS was being benificent and attempting to educate in the fine art of Eating Korean. I have no intention of sullying TS, why should I? His stuff is out there for anyone with the wherewithal to buy a Post. I hardly think that anything either of us say will amount to more than a flea on an elephant. (and my Korean food knowledge and expertise probably is at a higher level than his...I'll cede Chicago and Portland to him however )

I read it as him instructing readers in how to eat the dish and also noting that the staff did not provide any insight into how to do so. I guess I am just not smart enough to realize that I was reading it incorrectly.

[lackadaisi]

I read it as him instructing readers in how to eat the dish and also noting that the staff did not provide any insight into how to do so. I guess I am just not smart enough to realize that I was reading it incorrectly.

I guess I can't read either because that was also my interpretation.

Seriously, can't this stop? It is really ridiculous to continue harping on this point. If you really want to know, why don't you write in and ask during the chat this week (although I would recommend a different tone if you actually want an answer)?

[johnb]

Now, let's take the second phrase and put it in the beginning where it can go quite as well...and ergo: Although nobody told us that when we ordered the dish, before eating, a diner is supposed to gently blend the ingredients, along with zippy red bean paste, to taste. Now, I'm going to ask, does this sound like prior knowledge to you?

Yes, that's exactly what it sounds like to me, and to others who have entered into this discussion, and it is in fact exactly what he meant. You have dug yourself into a very needless and stupid hole on this, and it's time you let go. I assure you, neither I, nor Tom, nor any other members of this board, need any lessons in reading comprehension from you. Quite the reverse.

And your claim that you haven't tried to sully Tom would be funny if it weren't so pathetic. Reread your posts above.

[bilrus]

I didn't know how to eat bibimbap before reading this article. Now I do. Thanks Tom.

[Joe H]

"Tell you what, this is my last attempt at teaching reading comprehension...."

Forgive me, John, I sincerely apologize for what I am about to say: I cannot tell you how reassuring and comforting it is to note that I am not the only one who argues with people on this board!!!! Remarkably, this person with the moniker "Escoiffier," has pointed out their grammatical expertise and apparent educational lineage as if to imply that you should shrink in terror from what they, perhaps immodestly, believe is a superior gustatorial opponent. Hah!!!! Seriously, Hah!!!!

Little do they know!

I toast you, John! And root you on vicariously. (Although I fear my own imminent confrontation approaches.)

Sir Escoiffier, my apologies but I would back John B. in a table game in Vegas although I might (and do) disagree with him about where to eat after he has cleaned out the casino!

Joe

[Banco]

I didn't know how to eat bibimbap before reading this article. Now I do. Thanks Tom.

I envy you; I've now been put off Korean for at least seven months.

The way I see it, Escoffier has forfeited his privilege to be taken seriously by his ad hominem attacks on johnb.

[Sthitch]

I envy you; I've now been put off Korean for at least seven months.

Being overcome by a nasty strain of the cold virus, my memory might be failing me, but I thought that Escoffier wanted people to understand Korean food, but in reading the attack on Sietsema's piece, that was aimed at the general public not the Korean initiated, it seems that instead Escoffier wants it to remain an unknown realm to only be appreciated by Koreans or those that are fortunate enough to be bestowed the honor of being allowed out to dine with one.

[qwertyy]

I just can't believe he called it "zippy."

[crackers]

After reading the TS "review", it's obvious that he knows nothing about Korean food or what to expect. The difference between dolsot bibimbap and bibimbap? Two dollars..oh yeah and a "hot showboat". Erm, does stone pot mean anything to you Tom? Nobody tells you that you should mix the bibimbap with the red bean paste and stir everything up? When a Korean goes to an American restaurant, does anyone tell them how to eat American food? You couldn't ask your server? I'd suggest the next time you attempt to review a Korean restaurant you take a Korean along. If you don't know any, give us a call, we'll find one for you.

(let the B&M begin)

I think Sietsema himself got the last word in. From today's chat:

Alexandria & Seoul: Let's start with the basic premise that when it comes to Korean food, you had better stick to American. First, Korean food comes to the table when it's ready. If that means you get your entree before your appetizer, oh well. Korean food is served at once, it's not broken down into neat little categories. Secondly, if you had asked a server how to eat bibimbap in a "hot showboat", I'm sure they would have been most happy to tell you to mix it up and add bean paste to taste. The next time you attempt to review a Korean restaurant, please find a Korean who can hold your hand and tell you how you should eat it. I don't expect to see this in the chat, but maybe you'll learn something before your next foray to "Koreatown".

Tom Sietsema: (What's with the attitude, buddy? Chill out. Calm down. Have a sip of soju.)

Just to set the record straight, I've eaten in dozens of Korean restaurants all over the country over the years, with and without companions who are very familiar with the cooking because -- surprise! -- they're of Korean heritage.

In my recent review of Mandu, which I believe you're referencing, I simply wanted to let would-be patrons know how to eat certain dishes (when no instructions were forthcoming, as they frequently are elsewhere). I've done similar before, in reviews of Japanese and Ethiopian restaurants, where the general public might not know how to properly eat sushi or injera, respectively. It's called being helpful, ok?

Trust me, I know dishes in Korean restaurants follow each other in quick fashion, or as they're prepared, but the rate at which the food was flying out of the kitchen at Mandu was pretty hilarious. One night, EVERYTHING was on the table in less than 8 minutes. Wouldn't a reader want to know that?

Finally, I'm happy to post comments from readers who disagree with me. All I ask is that you be civil.

[Dark Wing]

.

[johnb]

I guess I can't read either because that was also my interpretation.

Seriously, can't this stop? It is really ridiculous to continue harping on this point. If you really want to know, why don't you write in and ask during the chat this week (although I would recommend a different tone if you actually want an answer)?

Well, it looks as if this is exactly what happened.

Alexandria & Seoul: Let's start with the basic premise that when it comes to Korean food, you had better stick to American. First, Korean food comes to the table when it's ready. If that means you get your entree before your appetizer, oh well. Korean food is served at once, it's not broken down into neat little categories. Secondly, if you had asked a server how to eat bibimbap in a "hot showboat", I'm sure they would have been most happy to tell you to mix it up and add bean paste to taste. The next time you attempt to review a Korean restaurant, please find a Korean who can hold your hand and tell you how you should eat it. I don't expect to see this in the chat, but maybe you'll learn something before your next foray to "Koreatown".

Tom Sietsema: (What's with the attitude, buddy? Chill out. Calm down. Have a sip of soju.)

Just to set the record straight, I've eaten in dozens of Korean restaurants all over the country over the years, with and without companions who are very familiar with the cooking because -- surprise! -- they're of Korean heritage.

In my recent review of Mandu, which I believe you're referencing, I simply wanted to let would-be patrons know how to eat certain dishes (when no instructions were forthcoming, as they frequently are elsewhere). I've done similar before, in reviews of Japanese and Ethiopian restaurants, where the general public might not know how to properly eat sushi or injera, respectively. It's called being helpful, ok?

Trust me, I know dishes in Korean restaurants follow each other in quick fashion, or as they're prepared, but the rate at which the food was flying out of the kitchen at Mandu was pretty hilarious. One night, EVERYTHING was on the table in less than 8 minutes. Wouldn't a reader want to know that?

Finally, I'm happy to post comments from readers who disagree with me. All I ask is that you be civil.

Good response!

I think it's a very good bet that Tom closely follows the "Tom's Reviews" and "Tom's Chats" threads here. I would strongly believe that he accepted this question from Escoffier and answered it in the chat primarily as a way to respond to the previous exchange here. He also addressed the issue which was raised earlier in this thread about deadlines and how soon after opening he reviews restaurants, and I'm fairly confident he did so in large part as a response to our discussion of that point. Not to say only as a response to those on this board, but at least we might reflect what others out there might be thinking.

[Escoffier]

Sir Escoiffier, my apologies but I would back John B. in a table game in Vegas although I might (and do) disagree with him about where to eat after he has cleaned out the casino!

Joe

I just saw this Joe and find it hilarious. The comparison of food to gambling (while finding good food can be a gamble and may leave you broke afterwards) is somewhat of a stretch. Thanks for the laugh.

I think Sietsema himself got the last word in. From today's chat:

as I said in my original post "Let the B&M begin" and so it goes...

.

This might have been funny if it had worked. What was it supposed to be?

[laniloa]

This might have been funny if it had worked. What was it supposed to be?

Worked for me. It is an audio clip from psycho. And you are right, it was funny.

[Miami Danny]

In Tom's review of Famoso, he mentions that he doesn't know who is cooking his meals there, because he can't 'poke [his] head into kitchens to see who's cooking.' I think the identity of the chef is vital to any dining review. Maybe when 'no one asked why we left so much food on our plates', he could have had one of his companions ask the waiter (or the manager) who was cooking in the kitchen. I was really shocked by this admission!

[johnb]

In Tom's review of Famoso, he mentions that he doesn't know who is cooking his meals there, because he can't 'poke [his] head into kitchens to see who's cooking.' I think the identity of the chef is vital to any dining review. Maybe when 'no one asked why we left so much food on our plates', he could have had one of his companions ask the waiter (or the manager) who was cooking in the kitchen. I was really shocked by this admission!

I'm not sure I agree. What difference would knowing who is cooking at any particular time make to him or his readers? Aside from the fact that for most restaurants the identity of the cook(s) would mean nothing to nearly all the patrons, even knowledgeable ones (I admit it--I wouldn't know Gabriele Paganelli from a hole in the ground), any restaurant should be able to turn out it's dishes consistently well no matter who is cooking at that moment/that evening. If the sous chef or whomever is doing the work and isn't up to the job, then the review should reflect the fact that the food wasn't good, not that so-and-so happened to be out sitting on the throne just then.

I suppose that if the restaurant has the chef's name, and folks have been led to expect they are paying for and will be eating his/her cooking, it might be different. But in the modern age even that probably doesn't apply. How many chef-named restaurants these days can claim the great man or woman is actually in the kitchen every night, let alone doing all the cooking. I think most restaurant-goers realize that isn't how it works, and that the cooks who are actually preparing their dishes don't have names they would recognize.

Remember, chef is a French word that means "chief," not "cook" as most seem to think. Since Escoffier, the chef has been a planner, director, and trainer, not necessarily a worker. If he has done his job well he probably doesn't need to be physically present. I do realize, of course, that that last point is highly debatable.

[Miami Danny]

I'm not sure I agree. What difference would knowing who is cooking at any particular time make to him or his readers? Aside from the fact that for most restaurants the identity of the cook(s) would mean nothing to nearly all the patrons, even knowledgeable ones (I admit it--I wouldn't know Gabriele Paganelli from a hole in the ground), any restaurant should be able to turn out it's dishes consistently well no matter who is cooking at that moment/that evening. If the sous chef or whomever is doing the work and isn't up to the job, then the review should reflect the fact that the food wasn't good, not that so-and-so happened to be out sitting on the throne just then.

I suppose that if the restaurant has the chef's name, and folks have been led to expect they are paying for and will be eating his/her cooking, it might be different. But in the modern age even that probably doesn't apply. How many chef named restaurants these days can claim the great man or woman is actually in the kitchen every night, let alone doing all the cooking. I think most restaurant goers realize that isn't how it works, and that the cooks who are actually preparing their dishes don't have names they would recognize.

Remember, chef is a French word that means "chief," not "cook" as most seem to think. Since Escoffier, the chef has been a planner, director, and trainer, not necessarily a worker. If he has done his job well he probably doesn't need to be physically present. I realize that last point is highly debatable.

Such facts as who cooks at a restaurant are pretty important in a restaurant review, especially when you NAME both chefs in the preceding sentence, describe one with a flourish, and then just list the name of the other guy. What he is saying is that, perhaps one guy can cook and the other can't-but we'll never know that.

My greater point was that TS ought to know who is cooking in the kitchen.

[lackadaisi]

What he is saying is that, perhaps one guy can cook and the other can't-but we'll never know that.

My greater point was that TS ought to know who is cooking in the kitchen.

I don't think that most restaurant review readers (i.e., TS's audience) care. What they care about is whether they should go to the restaurant. There is no way that they will be checking who is cooking prior to going, so the information would be useless to them.

[Miami Danny]

I don't think that most restaurant review readers (i.e., TS's audience) care. What they care about is whether they should go to the restaurant. There is no way that they will be checking who is cooking prior to going, so the information would be useless to them.

"The cloak-and-dagger strategy I follow when I review restaurants doesn't allow me to poke my head into kitchens to see who's cooking. (Chef Gabriele Paganelli, a native of Italy's Emilia-Romagna region who comes by way of Toronto, gets executive chef credit, and he's assisted by Romina Lugaresi.) I mention this only because one visit was vastly different from the others..."

Indicating that perhaps one should not eat here when the other guy is cooking? (Like, say, Sunday and Monday?) I think even a casual reader would want to know the answer to that one.

[Miami Danny]

I don't have a comment on TS's review, but the Ask Tom feature was pretty odd. Well, I guess we all have something to learn from ex-Bennigan's waitress Rolanda Shine.

[Kanishka]

People keep commenting on Chef Morou's use of berbere as being indicative of his African roots. Quoting Sietsema from this week's review:

"... some berbere oil, an accent that... trumpets the chef's origins."

Sietsema goes on to note that Chef Morou is Ivorian and that berbere is Ethiopian.

What the hell! Someone get a map... oh, here's one.

A quick eyeballing of the scale at the bottom leads me to believe that Abidjan is about 3200-3500 miles from Addis Ababa. But somehow, people are making the cuisines of the two countries roughly equivalent. Its insulting, and belies the cultural trend to treat "Africa" as some sort of undifferentiated whole instead of a diverse continent. Some quick wikipedia research (and some basic knowledge) confirms that Ivorians don't use berbere.

Think of it this way: if someone were to point out a Russian chef's use of chorizo as "trumpeting his/her European origins," you'd at the very least be confused, right? So why's it okay to do the same for an Ivorian chef using an ingredient from a continent away?

At the least, its geographic and cultural ignorance. And this is definitely not the first time it's happened.