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Tom Sietsema's Reviews


Meaghan

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The Post has pulled Tom's "First Bite" write up of Commissary: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/conte...8110101976.html

The EatWell DC group sent out a letter this morning to its listserv members with their take on the situation, blasting Tom for lack of judgment regarding this conflict of interest.

This is a tough standard, and I stand solidly behind Tom on this one (while at the same time understanding the Post's decision). Perhaps he should have mentioned a disclaimer, but from what I know about Tom Sietsema, he is professional enough to remain objective, regardless of any potential conflicts of interest, actual or perceived. He's done it in the past with Breadline, Stoney's, etc., and from where I view things, he's maintained extremely high integrity, year after year. I'll come right out and say that I've dined with Tom in the past where he is recognized (and fawned over), and it did not affect his reviews in any way that I could see. Ever since I became forum host at eGullet, I've used aspects of his approach as models for my own behavior, and these remain in place to this very day.

Cheers,

Rocks.

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I'll come right out and say that I've dined with Tom in the past where he is recognized (and fawned over), and it did not affect his reviews in any way that I could see. Ever since I became forum host at eGullet, I've used aspects of his approach as models for my own behavior, and these remain in place to this very day.

Cheers,

Rocks.

I'm curious, and I'm not trying to be a dissenter b/c I've generally always been a fan of Sietsma (aside from the fact that I've become bored by his redundant Wednesday chats), but how could him being fawned over NOT affect his review. At the very least, he could not possibly accurately describe what the service is apt to be like for any given customer if he's been recognized and is being fawned over. The same thing could be said of the food, although in general I suppose it's easier to up the service on short notice than it is the food. I have never seen a note in any Sietsma review where he says he can't review the service because he was recognized. On the contrary, in his chats he often mentions the use of disguises and in general gives the impression that he goes unrecognized (which, now that I think about it, seems even less likely because how many tables go in and order a large number of dishes and pass everything around, but I digress).

So while I think I get your point, that he wouldn't give a better review because he was fawned over, I don't see how being recognized couldn't affect his ability to review the location. So in these cases, what does he do? Again, I've never seen mention that he can't speak directly to the service b/c he thinks he was recognized.

On the specific issue of the Commissary, a disclaimer would have been simple enough and imho, sufficient.

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The one thing that doesn't make sense to me about this whole thing is what was Tom doing dating someone from Logan Tavern/Merkado/Grillfish in the first place? I mean, isn't that a little like Louis Menand dating Danielle Steele? Or Pauline Kael dating Michael Bay? (Don't get me wrong, Danielle Steele and Michael Bay are very successful at what they do and very good at their craft, but imagine how the conversation would go when Michael Bay has a new movie out..."So, honey, seen any good movies lately? No? Well, what should we go see? You know, I heard about this really good new movie that just came out. It's a provocative, insightful, layered post-modern hommage to a classic Hollywood masterpiece. Except instead of a dark, wild, disturbing projection of our deepest psycho-sexual fears and un-tamed longings in the form of a giant ape named Kong, it's got cars that turn into giant robots from outerspace...Whaddya mean you won't see it...You never want to go to ANY of my movies...I'll be on the couch."

Not that I'm jealous or anything, but if Tom really wanted to date someone in the restaurant business, would it have hurt him to at least call?

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The EatWell DC group sent out a letter this morning to its listserv members with their take on the situation, blasting Tom for lack of judgment regarding this conflict of interest.

I take it that EatWell does not have similar issues with Sietsema's review of another of their restaurants - The Heights.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/gog/restaura...ts,1140731.html

Perhaps their view of whether a perceived conflict of interest renders a review biased depends on the circumstances, and maybe the content, of the review.

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"A daisy chain of pickled cucumber and a tongue-teasing clear dip..."

I didn't just read this. Please, dear god, tell me I didn't just read this.

And please, dear god, do not let anyone link the term "daisy chain" to urbandictionary.com. And if someone does, please dear god, do not let anyone look at the header topics associated with the term.

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"A daisy chain of pickled cucumber and a tongue-teasing clear dip..."

I didn't just read this. Please, dear god, tell me I didn't just read this.

And please, dear god, do not let anyone link the term "daisy chain" to urbandictionary.com. And if someone does, please dear god, do not let anyone look at the header topics associated with the term.

pumpkin-puking.jpg

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"A daisy chain of pickled cucumber and a tongue-teasing clear dip..."
The “swollen asparagus freight train arrangement with Lucky Pierre lamb, spacedock hospitality and elephant-walk waitstaff” can’t be far behind the WashPo’s 2009 bargain-basement Bukowskish criticule (celebrity chefs notwithistanding).
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Unfortunately I find myself relying totally on the star ratings now; because some Sundays, I'm just not in the mood to slog through some of the worst writing in the Post.

Although to be fair, I assume he has an editor, who seems to be MIA.

From Sunday's review of Bourbon Steak:

(1) French fries amuse bouche = "golden bouquets"

(2) Quote from "a gal pal," rib-eye is [wait for it] "ignited with black pepper," and NY strip "gets a zesty lick of red pepper sauce" (all in the same paragraph)

(3) And the obligatory, vaguely dirty sentence, "'Oh. My. God.' You'd moan like the third member of my recent Friday night outing, too, if you had tasted his appetizer."

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Unfortunately I find myself relying totally on the star ratings now; because some Sundays, I'm just not in the mood to slog through some of the worst writing in the Post.

Although to be fair, I assume he has an editor, who seems to be MIA.

From Sunday's review of Bourbon Steak:

(1) French fries amuse bouche = "golden bouquets"

(2) Quote from "a gal pal," rib-eye is [wait for it] "ignited with black pepper," and NY strip "gets a zesty lick of red pepper sauce" (all in the same paragraph)

(3) And the obligatory, vaguely dirty sentence, "'Oh. My. God.' You'd moan like the third member of my recent Friday night outing, too, if you had tasted his appetizer."

The interesting thing is that when he wrote about the vegetarian place a couple weeks ago, the writing was lucid and occasionally damn near artful.

I rarely ever read restaurant reviews all the way through, regardless of who writes them. I think the format is so inherently stifling that no one can compose one without either trying too hard or sliding into a rut (though, starting a thread where we all adopt the pose of a famous author and review our most recent meal might be funny, especially if you drink). How many ways can you describe French fries over the course of a decade in the culinary trenches? It could drive anyone to excess.

Therefore, I forgive Tom for all the sins of which sacrilicious (with a name like that, who are they to cast stones?) :rolleyes: accuses Tom, save "gal pall" which is egregious and for which he should do many, many Hail Marys while waiting for his beeper to beep at a Cheesecake Factory.

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The interesting thing is that when he wrote about the vegetarian place a couple weeks ago, the writing was lucid and occasionally damn near artful.

I rarely ever read restaurant reviews all the way through, regardless of who writes them. I think the format is so inherently stifling that no one can compose one without either trying too hard or sliding into a rut (though, starting a thread where we all adopt the pose of a famous author and review our most recent meal might be funny, especially if you drink). How many ways can you describe French fries over the course of a decade in the culinary trenches? It could drive anyone to excess.

Therefore, I forgive Tom for all the sins of which sacrilicious (with a name like that, who are they to cast stones?) :rolleyes: accuses Tom, save "gal pall" which is egregious and for which he should do many, many Hail Marys while waiting for his beeper to beep at a Cheesecake Factory.

I say we start a "Best Line Ever" thread, and I nominate Waitman's line about saying Hail Marys whilste waiting to get beeped at the Cheesecake Factory. Me-I say my prayers at The Olive Garden.

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The interesting thing is that when he wrote about the vegetarian place a couple weeks ago, the writing was lucid and occasionally damn near artful.

I rarely ever read restaurant reviews all the way through, regardless of who writes them. I think the format is so inherently stifling that no one can compose one without either trying too hard or sliding into a rut (though, starting a thread where we all adopt the pose of a famous author and review our most recent meal might be funny, especially if you drink). How many ways can you describe French fries over the course of a decade in the culinary trenches? It could drive anyone to excess.

Therefore, I forgive Tom for all the sins of which sacrilicious (with a name like that, who are they to cast stones?) :rolleyes: accuses Tom, save "gal pall" which is egregious and for which he should do many, many Hail Marys while waiting for his beeper to beep at a Cheesecake Factory.

You say, and I'm with you, "I rarely ever read restaurant reviews all the way through, regardless of who writes them." But I'm curious-How many restaurant reviewers do you eschew in this manner other than Señor Sietsema? And while I agree that the format is limiting, you could really say that about almost all criticism, or all niche writing. Yet there are some who manage to pull it off. Ahem.

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I get through all the regulars in DC --the "Three T's", Tim, Tom and Todd -- as well as the occasional Bruni review in the Times and whomever has gotten a page or two in whatever glossy magazine I pick up to read at the gym. Despite taking the occasional cheap, vicious shot at him I enjoy Carman since he is able to work outside the traditional review box. Kliman has certainly brought a little zing to the Washingtonian, but I tend to find the non-review work more compelling. I also like Alan Richman over at GQ, though I don't always agree with him, but he has the benefit of many thousands of words to play with and an editor who seems willing to tolerate -- and underwrite -- a less-traditional approach to food criticism.

I'd suggest that worthy criticism -- be it food, music or art -- rarely occurs in the constrained format of a weekly review. Certainly, the Post has some fine art and music ciriticism, but it tends not to be found in the, for example, weekly rundown of the NSO's performance as much as the occasional feature-length piece that finds its way in the Sunday Arts section.

I'd turn the question around: who's regular restaurant cricism do you find particularly compelling?

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I get through all the regulars in DC --the "Three T's", Tim, Tom and Todd -- as well as the occasional Bruni review in the Times and whomever has gotten a page or two in whatever glossy magazine I pick up to read at the gym. Despite taking the occasional cheap, vicious shot at him I enjoy Carman since he is able to work outside the traditional review box. Kliman has certainly brought a little zing to the Washingtonian, but I tend to find the non-review work more compelling. I also like Alan Richman over at GQ, though I don't always agree with him, but he has the benefit of many thousands of words to play with and an editor who seems willing to tolerate -- and underwrite -- a less-traditional approach to food criticism.

I'd suggest that worthy criticism -- be it food, music or art -- rarely occurs in the constrained format of a weekly review. Certainly, the Post has some fine art and music ciriticism, but it tends not to be found in the, for example, weekly rundown of the NSO's performance as much as the occasional feature-length piece that finds its way in the Sunday Arts section.

I'd turn the question around: who's regular restaurant cricism do you find particularly compelling?

Actually my line about "pulling it off" was a continuation of the double entendre shtick on this thread, not a reference to any particular reviewer. Like yourself, I don't seem to find restaurant reviews as interesting or helpful as I used to-more often than not a simple reading of a restaurant's menu and wine list (and 'mission statement') says more to me than a 'review'. Somewhat predictably, raves tend to be bland and insipid love notes, with pans tending towards the snarky and bitter-humored. There rarely seems to be any context, as there would have to be in, say, a visual art or architecture review. The same could be said for dance or theater. It also seems as though the deadly structure of 'the big review' is rarely broken, leading to a sameness that only someone with a strong desire (and the space, of course) to break out of that safe structure could achieve. That being said, perhaps you are correct that restaurants don't really lend themselves to that kind of criticism anymore, now that there is so much more information at our fingertips. Is there anyone who still finds the 'big review' helpful?

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Is there anyone who still finds the 'big review' helpful?

I find it difficult to offer a blanket opinion one way or the other. "It depends" seems the best answer. Some scenarios, off the top of my head, when I find the "big review" helpful:

  • A restaurant that is not yet on my radar
  • A big change - a top restaurant falling, or a lightly-received place suddenly doing something worth noting
  • The first review of a highly-anticipated restaurant or chef

Certainly week after week of 2 and 2.5 star reviews of places I'm already aware of don't hold as much value.

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I can think of a few times that Tom was extremely helpful to me. Once, I wrote him an email asking about restaurants that filter the water on the table. He wrote it up in his sidebar in the Sunday magazine, and offered four or five restaurants that filtered the drinking (and hopefully cooking) water. Another time, I sent him a note asking for a good recommendation for a non-chain restaurant in Reston for a business dinner. He sent me a note about El Manantiel, where I've become a semi-regular.

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Well, the DR Inox discussion clearly resonated with Tom --

Not once, not twice, but three times did he refer to the review:

"Annapolis: Tom, It is time to do away with the star system in the weekly reviews. Although certainly well-intentioned when it was instituted, the controversy triggered by your Inox review (or more specifically, by the number of "stars" you scored it) highlights how inconsistent and divisive this ranking system has become...."

"In the state of Confusion: Tom, I have a question with your last review. The one on Inox restaurant.

It seemed to me that something was implied about Shelia Johnson was pinching pennies? What made you think of Shelia Johnson? Is she one of Inox investors? I just didn't get the angle you going for. It just seemed like it was snuck in there for a reason, and I am trying to figure out the connection?"

And my favorite, since I'd asked about the mysterious "agenda."

"..Splurges? CityZen, Eve, the Inn at Little Washington, 2941, Charleston in Baltimore and Inox -- yes, Inox! -- would all be on my short list.

Could I just say something here? I had absolutely no "agenda" (as one industry insider wrote) when I penned that review. I don't personally know the players at all (well, except for Wabeck, but we go way back professionally)."

Does this mean Don is an "industry insider?"

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And my favorite, since I'd asked about the mysterious "agenda."

"..Splurges? CityZen, Eve, the Inn at Little Washington, 2941, Charleston in Baltimore and Inox -- yes, Inox! -- would all be on my short list.

Could I just say something here? I had absolutely no "agenda" (as one industry insider wrote) when I penned that review. I don't personally know the players at all (well, except for Wabeck, but we go way back professionally)."

Does this mean Don is an "industry insider?"

I think he was probably referring to this.

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I never been to Inox and I will not judge the restaurant by itself but I would like to bring several points:

First: two and a half stars is not a bad review and in fact it is a good one.

Second: both publications gave the same rating!!!!!! I would understand if some people are upset at one reviewer but both had the same evaluation of the place.

I will add that among my friends there was different opinions about the level of Inox and we make a poll of let's say 10 different people who have been there we are close to a 2 1/2 stars rating.Some raved about it and some were not very enthusiastic.

Third:For many years the Post was criticized for not giving any ratings in their restaurant review, now they get criticized for giving one; the review is more important and people should take time to read it and see the positive side of it.

Fourth: Consistency is one of the top quality of a restaurant; Usually a guide or a reviewer gives a lower rating and wait to see if the restaurant is consistent and improves.

For instance the Washingtonian never gave four stars at the opening of a restaurant.

So be patient if Inox is good and consistent they will get the stars.

Chef,

I agree with most of what you say. Interesting though isn't it that Modern Living (DC) gave Inox 4 stars out of 5? Not that they have been around for a long time, but again, they seem to get reviews pretty dead on most of the time. I think that it's interesting that Tom Sietsema gives Even Tide the same rating as Inox, yet doesn’t mention the economy once in the piece, and really hits home about the “experience”. Even Tide menu shows prices between $20-$30. Inox is between $22-$39 with a larger menu if you look at all of the savory dishes. So my question becomes this: With Inox having a better wine program offering a bible of choices, a larger ala carte menu, Offering a Tasting Menu (which Even Tide does not), Free Valet Parking (Even Tide suggests parking @ DHS a block away), and I might even venture to say, a more interesting menu, What Puts Inox at the same level as Even Tide.

Don’t get me wrong! I have eaten at both and think that Even Tide is a 2.5 star, but I have to think that Inox is a little better than a 2.5 star, my personal opinion is a 3 star. But if you are going to review upscale establishments that contain good to great chefs, like Miles Vaden, Jon Krinn and J. Mathieson, I think that you need to keep the same level of vigilance that you did in the previous review. If you’re going to knock a guy for opening a fine dining restaurant during the economy, you had better continue that trend unless you want to look bias. TS did not do that. And again, you can see it in his writing.

I think that it’s important for people with a public voice, to recognize that their voice speaks volumes. They do have the capacity to make or break a place. And going out and putting Inox at 2.5 Stars puts them on the same list at Blacks Bar and kitchen, Surf Side, Even Tide, Poste, Mio, Comet Ping Pong, Co Co Sala, and Sei. That is ridicules.

Tom Sietsema – Even Tide Review “ Restaurants might think they're in the business of serving food, but they're actually peddling more than that: an experience. Eventide does such an admirable job of seeing to our comfort and making diners feel like neighbors that it could probably offer a menu half as good and still fill its seats. But that's not this restaurant's style, and thank goodness for that.”

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please everyone it is 'Eventide', all one word. Out of respect when making a point, please make sure grammar and spelling are correct. Also, what makes the wine list at Inox better than the one at Eventide. Did you ever think that each list is designed in conjunction with the food being served. I believe that is one of the biggest flaws with restaurants these days. Wine lists that have no compatability with the food being served. I know both sets of owners so I hope I have not offended either side by making that comment.

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please everyone it is 'Eventide', all one word. Out of respect when making a point, please make sure grammar and spelling are correct. Also, what makes the wine list at Inox better than the one at Eventide. Did you ever think that each list is designed in conjunction with the food being served. I believe that is one of the biggest flaws with restaurants these days. Wine lists that have no compatability with the food being served. I know both sets of owners so I hope I have not offended either side by making that comment.

You sir, are the man. :D

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Chef,

I agree with most of what you say. Interesting though isn't it that Modern Living (DC) gave Inox 4 stars out of 5? Not that they have been around for a long time, but again, they seem to get reviews pretty dead on most of the time. I think that it's interesting that Tom Sietsema gives Even Tide the same rating as Inox, yet doesn’t mention the economy once in the piece, and really hits home about the “experience”. Even Tide menu shows prices between $20-$30. Inox is between $22-$39 with a larger menu if you look at all of the savory dishes. So my question becomes this: With Inox having a better wine program offering a bible of choices, a larger ala carte menu, Offering a Tasting Menu (which Even Tide does not), Free Valet Parking (Even Tide suggests parking @ DHS a block away), and I might even venture to say, a more interesting menu, What Puts Inox at the same level as Even Tide.

Don’t get me wrong! I have eaten at both and think that Even Tide is a 2.5 star, but I have to think that Inox is a little better than a 2.5 star, my personal opinion is a 3 star. But if you are going to review upscale establishments that contain good to great chefs, like Miles Vaden, Jon Krinn and J. Mathieson, I think that you need to keep the same level of vigilance that you did in the previous review. If you’re going to knock a guy for opening a fine dining restaurant during the economy, you had better continue that trend unless you want to look bias. TS did not do that. And again, you can see it in his writing.

I think that it’s important for people with a public voice, to recognize that their voice speaks volumes. They do have the capacity to make or break a place. And going out and putting Inox at 2.5 Stars puts them on the same list at Blacks Bar and kitchen, Surf Side, Even Tide, Poste, Mio, Comet Ping Pong, Co Co Sala, and Sei. That is ridicules.

Tom Sietsema – Even Tide Review “ Restaurants might think they're in the business of serving food, but they're actually peddling more than that: an experience. Eventide does such an admirable job of seeing to our comfort and making diners feel like neighbors that it could probably offer a menu half as good and still fill its seats. But that's not this restaurant's style, and thank goodness for that.”

I believe the star rating system is based on context:

Partner 1) "Honey I'm in the mood for European influenced fine dining."

Partner 2) "This Place called Inox just got a very good review. The reviewer said he couldn't wait for a special occasion to go back and try out some of the great flavors he had had there. That's one of the best quotes he's given a restaurant in all the years I've read his reviews, and they featured that quote on the WTOP radio spot."

Partner 1) Yeah, but this Ping Pong place got 2.5 stars too. Its cheaper so it has to be a better choice and you can play ping pong and throw down a beer while waiting for a table with several other couples and there cherrycoke(d)-up kids.

Partner 2) Gee honey, you're right. Let's go to Ping Pong!

I guess the other readers of the Post who don't blog are all morons and just don't get it?

Why would you right about the economy two weeks in a row? That would be the sign of a really **itty writer.

IMO, the review of Inox (steakhouses aside) puts it in the top 2 restaurants (IN THE CONTEXT of FINE DINING) in the area that it is in. Ironically, the other one...

2941.

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IIMO, the review of Inox (steakhouses aside) puts it in the top 2 restaurants (IN THE CONTEXT of FINE DINING) in the area that it is in. Ironically, the other one...

2941.

While I agree with your premise, steakhouses aside, Inox and 2941 are the only two restaurants in the context of fine dining in the area they are in. Being in the top 2 doesn't mean that much, in that context.

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The on-line Masa 14 review graces pâté and résumé with [itstheir ;)] proper accents to distinguish from homonyms, but why are "aioli", "creme brulee" and other borrowed words not deemed worthy of the same grammatical attention?

Because of what you just said? I do the same thing in thread titles - "Cafe" never gets the accent aigu, for example, but if something has the potential to look ambiguous or silly without a diacritic (*) (click for examples), I'll stick it in.

(*)

To: Poivrot Farci

From: Tom Sietsema

Re: Your post on donrockwell.com

"Die!"

-- A Critic.

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Orthography is not grammar.

Please excuse the gauche philological jumbling.

The WashPo’s serif-sheriff style ordinance is not to use accents other than for names, homonym differentiation and window treatment tips, but that doesn’t explain the need (in the food section particularly) to selectively neuter foreign romance words that so heavily make up the backbone of modern western culinary and service culture/terminology/whathaveyou other than to dumb it down for those who type on telephones, burger eating rubes or to save ink.

While it is hardly a matter of dining security, such circumscribing may be a sensitive issue for epicureans respectful of authenticity, 200 million Francophones, and those in between who appreciate the traditional craftsmanship of fancy lug work rather than the bland efficiency provided by robotic welds.

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