Volt, on Market Street in Frederick - Chef Bryan Voltaggio comes from Charlie Palmer Steak - Closed

[kturkey88]

Anyone know if you can get the full dinner menu - the a la carte - at the bar or would/should we get a table?

[mame11]

Yes, you can get the dinner menu at the bar. I did it recently with a friend and the food was a treat. We combined items from the dinner and bar menus to have a feast. Though I have to say service at the bar was not up to par. Not sure they want people to have a full experience at it. However, a friend who lives in Frederick says it is a great place to eat the bar... I'd probably opt for a table unless there is something you really want on the bar menu OR no table is available.

[DPop]

For my birthday last weekend my wife and I made the long, long trek out to Frederick to sit at Table 21 at VOLT. First off, having spent the earlier part of the day at brunch with my parents at Eventide, I think this restaurant is gorgeous. Between Adour, Eventide, VOLT, and Inox all opening in the last year or so, the DC area now has some very impressive looking new restaurants.

Onto the meal. The one word I would use to describe Table 21, unfortunately, is excessive. Don't get me wrong, we had a great time and I would recommend that serious diners give this a whirl once in their life just for the experience. But it was all just TOO MUCH. A good deal of what we ate was delicious, but after 13 courses and over 2 hours (about 60% of the way through the meal), it gets tough to continue sitting and eating food. It's not like it was at Citronelle or Maestro, where 3 hours seemed to fly by and I never looked at my watch or asked how much longer things were going to take or felt like I was going to burst. At VOLT, I couldn't help but wonder after we passed the 3 hour mark when we would be able to get up and go, which was too bad because there was some serious talent and skill on display last Sunday.

I won't go into detail about everything we ate (pictures of most of it are above), but the two best dishes I had were substitutes that my wife was served (non pork eater) that none of the other people at the table got that night. The first was a little Arancini Risotto Ball, a little perfectly fried piece of deliciousness resting on top of a decadent garlic aioli. It sounds about as simple as it gets but somehow (not sure how he did this) the risotto inside the breading remains in a liquid form and not fried into the crust like you would normally see (think soup dumpling). I found this to be one of the few courses where both technique and flavor were at a premium and didn't require a foam or a million ingredients to be impressive. The other dish I just loved was my wife's replacement for the Bacon Stuffed Rabbit course, which was a medium rare cooked piece of lamb encircled by a superb ring of merguez lamb sausage, sprinkled with some parsley and not made busy with any other accoutrements. It doesn't appear that this is an item on the dining room menu, but they should really consider putting a bigger version of this on there as it is just fantastic.

Some other favorites were the Foie Gras, which was a simple presentation, incredibly rich and aided by some high quality sea salt, the Chicken Wing Presse, which was one course that was truly aided by a fancy technique in freezing the bleu cheese crumbles to really give it the taste and temperature of a traditional bleu cheese dressing, and the Beef Strip Loin, which we were probably too full to really enjoy (it was course 17) but was perfectly cooked high grade beef with a nice showing of good fresh garlic present throughout the dish.

The dishes I felt fell short were the Prosciutto Chips, which were like salt licks (and I really love salt), the Bass, which was kind of boring and overcooked, the Sweetbreads, which were overfried and had WAY too much going on on the plate, with a mixture of several ground spices which I couldn't figure out if they were supposed to be eaten together and tasted separately (I couldn't find a combo that worked for me in the 3 small bites I had), and the Salsify, which was the ultimate example of 'technique over flavor' in this meal, with an impressively cooked (yet odd tasting) egg and some dried truffles plopped on a plate for a dish whose flavor just did not work. I wasn't crazy about any of the desserts apart from the Dulce de Leche cheesecake, but I don't know if it's fair to judge any of them because I was so full at that point in the meal and nothing was particularly appetizing.

Overall, it was a beautiful environment to celebrate in, and the staff was quite pleasant and accommodating. I don't think I will be back at Table 21 unless it becomes Table 15 (as in courses) and the price goes down $20-30, but it is a grand affair that is worth an hour drive (although I don't think I buy that people will be travelling from across the country for this meal). I will, however, come back and sit in the dining room for a regular meal, especially if some of the better dishes that I had at Table 21 are an indication of what's being offered on the dinner menu.

[Ericandblueboy]

I think $125 is fairly priced, unless you factor in the time value of money of getting there. We also ate at a much faster pace than you. We had the earlier seating on a Saturday evening and were done in about 2.5 hrs, IIRC. Lastly, if Bryan wins Top Chef, then this place could get national attention.

[ToothbrushFambly]

Volt seems to be a popular birthday destination, as in "Here, I'll take you for your birthday. Will you shut up about Volt now?" The answer to that question is apparently "No." But I'll be brief. First, I'll come to the defense of the sweetbreads. I really enjoyed them. I was a bit surprised when I heard they'd be cooked in tempura batter, but I really liked the effect. Moist, but not oily. Tender on the inside with some crispness surrounding. And with the various sauces, spices, etc, it reminded me of an upscale McNugget happy meal. It appealed to the six-year old lurking behind a 30-year-old palate. Second, as far as the amount of food, our four courses left us sated but not comatose. And the next day I didn't have the desire to eat much at all, so it kind of evened out. A great dining experience overall.

[DanielS]

LOL, my wife who is somewhat of a picky eater asked what the sweetbreads were, and I told her a Chicken McNugget.

While I will agree with DPop, it is alot of food, many of the courses, unlike many "tasting menus" would probably be considered 1/2 size orders of a full course. Hell, some like the short ribs and halibut were full size. With that being said, Im probably a pig, and couldnt get enough.

Having been in the kitchen and now watching Chef Bryan on Top Chef, all I can think is this guy is too good for Fredrick and it will be only a matter of time before we lose him like Chef Trabocchi, to NYC.

Oh if you have 300 bucks lying around, I got an email from them recently, they are hosting a farm dinner on Sept 15th.

"So do we have a dinner planned for YOU!

Get out your calendar and pencil in Tuesday, September 15th. We are picking up VOLT and going to the farm and we want you to come with us.

Chef is planning a six-course dinner at the organic-certified Whitmore Farm. You remember me talking about Whitmore Farm in previous blogs yes? That’s the location of the now infamous pig - um - procedure. And you know, its no secret I’ve had this adoration of Morrow and his farm since the day I set foot on the farm.

We’re hosting a very limited spaced dinner set inside the twinkling lantern-lit red and white barn overlooking a pasture of grazing Katahdin Sheep and Fainting Goats. Don’t you just want to be at this dinner? It’s really a postcard fairy tale but better. This fairy tale includes food!

The six-course dinner complemented by beverage pairings will showcase Whitmore Farm products and those of other local farms - Summer Creek Farm and Scenic View Orchard to name a few. Beverage pairings for the dinner bring together truly exceptional local vintners including Flying Dog Brewery, Black Ankle and Elk Run. The cocktail reception will feature handcrafted libations featuring local ingredients.

Here’s a quote from Chef from our press release - “By hosting this dinner on the farm, we’re taking our guests through the journey that we go thru everyday in selecting ingredients that make up the menu. Hand selecting each purveyor, visiting each farm and taking a real interest in how our foods are grown and handled from the farm to the restaurant. The menu will be focused around products from farms within Frederick County. So the purpose is to give our diners a unique farm-to-table setting that shows our commitment to the farmer - chef relationship.”

The evening begins at 6:00 p.m. with a cocktail reception followed by dinner at 7:00 p.m. The cost is $285 per guest. Reservations can be made by calling VOLT: 301-696-VOLT (8658). Whitmore Farm is located at 10720 Dern Road in Emmitsberg, Maryland. Please visit the VOLT website for event details, hotel and transportation recommendations (but not yet, I haven’t gotten to the website yet - check our site in a few days).

Here are url’s for our event participants. Please visit them:

• Whitmore Farm: www.whitmorefarm.com

• Black Ankle Winery: www.BlackAnkle.com

• Elk Run Winery: www.ElkRun.com

• Flying Dog Brewery: www.FlyingDogAles.com

• Sota Dzine Photography: www.SotaWeddings.com

This is a not-to-miss event! Save up now.

[MarkS]

Going to Volt Saturday night for RW week. Has anyone done corkage there? I called and they charge 25$ per bottle which is good if they have good stemware as I would bring great wine.

Any dishes to avoid?

Thanks

mark

[bookluvingbabe]

I went for RW week yesterday. I was pretty pleased with my meal with a few exceptions. The beet and chevre salad was lovely but the chevre had no flavor at all. It was just white puffs. I was a bit disappointed in that. The flat iron was exceptionally good and the sauces that went with it were amazing. Bread service is terrific.

I had the chocolate tasting for dessert and it did nothing for me. And I'm a chocolate person. The white chocolate had no flavor. (I see a trend--avoid white puffs and blobs at Volt!)

I would definitely go back and I hope to make it a special lunch treat for myself once BLToddler starts school next month.

[zoramargolis]

The white chocolate had no flavor.

White chocolate is oxymoronic. It should not be called chocolate. All of the chocolate essences and flavors have been removed from it. It is vegetable fat with sugar, and maybe a little bit of vanilla flavor. A plague on those who treat it as if it is worth eating.

When I was in high school, with a strong impulse toward the theater of the absurd, I would buy a block of white chocolate, wrap it in an Ivory soap wrapper and walk around campus gnawing on it.

[MarkS]

We thoroughly enjoyed the 4 course RW week menu last night, pared with a Grand Cru that i brought from my cellar.

We started out with cocktails while the wine was opened. Really liked the stemware was matched to the wine variety.

I had the tuna carpaccio for my 1st while my wife had a shrimp starter. My tuna rocked!!!

Celeste has the prk belly for her 2nd course and I had a shrimp disj. He pork belly rocked.

We each had the flatiron which was paired with some really good polenta.. Excellent

By this time the wine was tasting great as well. Corkage was 25 but it really brings the cost of a meal down if you have either really good wine at home you should open but don't or really good wine you have accumulated over the years. I fall into both categories.

The peach cobler for desert was spot on and their coffee(frenh press) was really good. Both my wife and I like great coffee and they had it.

Add in the doughnuts they also brought and we were ready to explore.

Bryan was in the kitchen and I was told he is involved in each plate that comes out. It shows.

Volt is easily one of the best restaurants in the area. Fredrick seemed lively and full of energy, not just a strip mall oasis.

Can't wait to go back

[Joe H]

We thoroughly enjoyed the 4 course RW week menu last night, pared with a Grand Cru that i brought from my cellar.

We started out with cocktails while the wine was opened. Really liked the stemware was matched to the wine variety.

I had the tuna carpaccio for my 1st while my wife had a shrimp starter. My tuna rocked!!!

Celeste has the prk belly for her 2nd course and I had a shrimp disj. He pork belly rocked.

We each had the flatiron which was paired with some really good polenta.. Excellent

By this time the wine was tasting great as well. Corkage was 25 but it really brings the cost of a meal down if you have either really good wine at home you should open but don't or really good wine you have accumulated over the years. I fall into both categories.

The peach cobler for desert was spot on and their coffee(frenh press) was really good. Both my wife and I like great coffee and they had it.

Add in the doughnuts they also brought and we were ready to explore.

Bryan was in the kitchen and I was told he is involved in each plate that comes out. It shows.

Volt is easily one of the best restaurants in the area. Fredrick seemed lively and full of energy, not just a strip mall oasis.

Can't wait to go back

This is a frustrating post for me since Volt has a number of excellent wines at a more than realistic price point. From my CH post from several months ago:

Their wine list is especially notable, not just for its length but also for its value. Under $40 wines include the excellent Spanish Altos Luzon and Juan Gil. Others included Tinto Pesquera and Coronado de Haza in the $60 range while '05 Simi Landslide is a 94 point California Cab for $68. While there were many ranging into the mid three digits I was impressed with the intelligent inclusions at a realistic price point of under $50." http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/635227 is the original post.

I don't know about white-I just don't drink that much. But for red Volt is remarkable. Juan Gil and Altos Luzon are remarkable inclusions on any restaurant's wine list. With reasonable markups there is simply no need for corkage unless someone is bringing a truly remarkable bottle. Sorry for my disagreement but there are far too few restaurants like Volt that offer really good less expensive bottles of wine at a reasonable cost. When they do, as now, I feel the need to point this out.

[zoramargolis]

Bryan is posting on Facebook today, about surfing in Santa Monica and eating pork belly and shrimp burgers at Umami, in L.A. So either he shooting a Top Chef reunion episode, in the finals, or assisting a finalist. In any case, he's not in the kitchen at Volt right now.

[MarkS]

Bryan is posting on Facebook today, about surfing in Santa Monica and eating pork belly and shrimp burgers at Umami, in L.A. So either he shooting a Top Chef reunion episode, in the finals, or assisting a finalist. In any case, he's not in the kitchen at Volt right now.

That is really odd as he was there Saturday night. Saw him in the flesh as we went to the bathroom.

[Beto]

That is really odd as he was there Saturday night. Saw him in the flesh as we went to the bathroom.

Was red herring on the menu?

[MarkS]

Was red herring on the menu?

No..

[zoramargolis]

That is really odd as he was there Saturday night. Saw him in the flesh as we went to the bathroom.

Even if he was at Volt on Saturday night, a 6 a.m. Sunday flight from Dulles to LAX arrives at 8 a.m. west coast time. He had plenty of time to get there on Sunday morning, and go surfing in Santa Monica and eat Umami Burgers and send Facebook messages on Sunday afternoon.

[seanvtaylor]

I don't know whether the chef was in the kitchen Sunday evening, but our 'last night of restaurant week' meal there was fantastic. The tuna tartare was a mighty portion of spicy, complicated goodness, with flavors popping in, over, and all around the tuna and the chili pepper oil (I think?) sitting underneath. The veal sweetbreads were lightly breaded--almost fritter-like--and accompanied by olive and caper powders that really supplemented the subtle flavor of the veal. My pork tenderloin was perfectly cooked, and as we finished the meal, I was again astounded that cooking can be this good.

And the wine list was very interesting, and has been pointed out here, would work for anybody with any budget. The service was warm and professional. We look forward to going back.

[Lola007]

Volt will be offering a special five-course dinner featuring Elk Run wines on October 13.

Here's the information I received from Volt:

Nestled under tents overlooking vines loaded with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc please join us in celebrating Elk Run's fall harvest and toasting to the next years vintage.

The five-course dinner is complemented by wines paired uniquely to showcase Elk Run's award-winning wines. Having won over 500 awards in

the past years, Elk Run has garnered both national and internationalgold and silver awards.

The evening begins at 6:00 p.m., followed by dinner at 7:00 p.m.

The cost is $165 per guest, inclusive of beverages, tax and gratuity.

Elk Run Vineyards is located at 15113 Liberty Road, Mt. Airy, Maryland.

Call VOLT today for reservations.

[Pat]

Chef Voltaggio posted a message on twitter overnight saying that Table 21 has become available for this Wednesday due to a cancellation.

[Cooter]

Are there any hotels or bed and breakfasts within stumbling distance of Volt that anyone could recommend?

[hungry prof]

Are there any hotels or bed and breakfasts within stumbling distance of Volt that anyone could recommend?

My wife and I stayed at the Hollerstown Hill B&B on a getaway weekend last year. Nice bed; just ok breakfast. Within easy walking distance of downtown Frederick.

[Flavortown]

Another special event coming up at Volt, this time a tribute to Edgar Allen Poe next Thursday, October 29th. Two menus, one focusing on his birth and childhood, the other on his death. Both sound pretty awesome.

Release: http://www.voltrestaurant.com/pdf/Poe%20Dinner%20Release.pdf

Menus: http://www.voltrestaurant.com/pdf/poe%20menu.pdf

Anybody else have a sudden desire to go on a field trip?

[sphere777]

Another special event coming up at Volt, this time a tribute to Edgar Allen Poe next Thursday, October 29th. Two menus, one focusing on his birth and childhood, the other on his death. Both sound pretty awesome.

Release: http://www.voltrestaurant.com/pdf/Poe%20Dinner%20Release.pdf

Menus: http://www.voltrestaurant.com/pdf/poe%20menu.pdf

Anybody else have a sudden desire to go on a field trip?

At the time I called ( a few minutes ago), they were fully booked. <sigh>

[AStern]

At the time I called ( a few minutes ago), they were fully booked. <sigh>

My husband surprised me with reservations for tonight's Poe dinner, as an early b-day present. I can't wait! My friend and I dined at VOLT for this past winter's Restaurant Week, and we thoroughly enjoyed our meal. I've been debating between the two menus, and I believe I'll go with whichever my husband does not chose. That way I can try some of each I'll be sure to report.

[1000yregg]

I went to the Poe dinner last night- really inexpensive for the quality of food.

I tasted both the Boston and Baltimore courses.

We started with an amuse bouche that was Bryan Voltaggio's elimination challenge winner from the second ep this season, the sweet and sour lime macaroon with guacamole.

The first course was a slightly deconstructed clam chowder with "mock" root vegetables, and balsamic spheres. They had things that seemed like potatoes but had the texture more of a gnocchi, and the carrots were like noodles. The second item was the crab cake- served with an old bay chip, celeric and an apple remoulade- it was just ok for a crabcake.

The second course was nantucket bay scallops with urchin, maitake, coriander blossom, and soy air/foam- this was scrumptious. The other item was pigeon- impeccable cooked with mustard and caraway potato croqeuttes.

The third course was a roasted black chicken- which was no longer black after it had been cooked that was really nice. It was served over a parsnip and chestnut puree that was like pudding. Did he remove the black appearance of the chicken to not freak out patrons?

The other item was a wagyu cooked sous vide then grilled over potatoes- the meat was yummy- probably my favorite item.

For dessert- they had a deconstructed boston cream pie that was just alright, and a lady baltimore cake with fig which was good. We ended with mini chipwich ice cream sandwiches.

I can't wait to go back. Oh, and the Poe performance- too long- 2 hours and the only Poe story was the last one when I was starving and tired.

[AStern]

My husband and I went to the Poe dinner last night, as well. I chose the Boston menu, along with the wine pairing, and my husband had the Baltimore. We started with an amuse bouche of beet macaroon with fois gras mousse- I am a beet fan, and I really liked how this just melted in the mouth blending the two flavors. The breadsticks with fennel pollen were crunchy, but otherwise underwhelming, though my husband thought the fennel livened up the flavor. The biscuits in the breadbasket were awesome! Tender, flaky, yum. The kalamata roll was yeasty, salty, and I would eat myself silly on them if I could. The first course chowder was delightful: clam-y and rich, but not cloying. The accompanying muscatel was bright and citrusy in a nice contrast. The crabcake was fantastic, sweet, delicate Chesapeake crab. The green apple and celriac remoulade was a pleasant, slightly sweet/ bright addition. It seriously impressed my crabcake enthusiast hubby! The second course Taylor bay scallops (listed as Nantucket Bay scallops on the online menu, but Taylor on the restaurant's printed menu) were quite good. The maitake mushrooms, soy air, and sea urchin were seriously delicious. I'd love to recreate this with Narragansett scallops from Rhode Island (my fave scallop). The sauvignon blanc was green and mineral-y, nice with the umami from the soy. The pigeon was surprisingly good. Neither my husband nor I have eaten pigeon, and we were pretty impressed. The potatoes were crispy on the outside and creamy inside. Our main dishes were generous in size. The wagyu was a bit rare for my husband's taste, but he loved it- he is not a beef lover- 'nuf said. My black chicken was the best flavored chicken I have had in a restaurant. The chestnut and parsnip purees were scrumptious. The bacon and brussels sprouts were salty and piggy in the best way possible. I liked the syrah as a pairing. The deconstructed boston cream pie was nice. I have had the ganache base at VOLT before, and I really like it. In a way it reminds me of a smooth version of the "skin" that develops on pudding. I love that! The accompanying braquetto truly was "chocolate and raspberries in a glass", as the sommelier described it. The Lady Baltimore "cake" reminded my husband of a fig version of the little pecan pies one gets in a convenience store- that's a huge compliment- he adores those pies. To me it was the ultimate fig newton. The sorbet was figgy delight. We both could've eaten more desserts. The complimentary ice cream sandwiches were a lovely treat- the oatmeal cookie with coconut ice cream was Ben and Jerry's worthy. Our take home gift of orange and spice muffins were tasty, too. The service was impeccable and welcoming. I am so glad that Frederick is home to this gem. It's just a 5 minute drive for me! We did enjoy the theater show at the Weinberg. It wasn't as Poe-intensive as we had thought it would be, but we laughed along. Planning for a Table 21 experience soon, well, as soon as reservations allow!

[fuzzy510]

Finally convinced my friend to go up to Frederick with me for dinner Wednesday night. Anything in particular on the menu that is not to be missed? We're eating in the main dining room, so I'd love to have some suggestions before tackling the a la carte menu.

[1000yregg]

There probably isn't anything to recommend because his menu is seasonal. I would recommend that you get one item from each course (4 with dessert).

[AStern]

I've loved the goat cheese ravioli in a couple of seasonal variations. A friend of mine had a deconstructed banana split that he liked a lot. Everything I've tried from the menus has been great, so I don't think you can go wrong.

[fuzzy510]

Naturally, here I am posting a review of my meal two months after it happened, and since it was so long ago, I no longer remember the details well enough to comfortably give a good review. Crap.

The one thing I do remember with stunning clarity, though: the tasting of pears for dessert featured a Seckel pear sorbet that is, bar-none, the greatest ice cream/sorbet/sherbet/gelato I have ever had. My friend's wife wasn't the biggest fan, and my friend and I both wanted to have her committed for not liking it.

There were other highlights too, such as a fantastic tuna tartare with soy air and chicken that is sous-vide and then finished on the flat-top, causing the whole thing to be both evenly cooked and moist while also having a fantastically crispy skin, but like I said, the memory is foggy.

Plain and simple, if you haven't been to Volt yet, especially with all of the attention Bryan Voltaggio has gotten recently, you really don't have any excuse (and don't say that it's too expensive - I'm a college student, and somehow I managed to scrounge up the $80 it cost me for my meal without a subsidy from the parents). Rocks is right, it's easily the best restaurant in Maryland, and it's really an unmatched dining experience overall. Go.

[susanmab]

The one thing I do remember with stunning clarity, though: the tasting of pears for dessert featured a Seckel pear sorbet that is, bar-none, the greatest ice cream/sorbet/sherbet/gelato I have ever had.

OK, I'm taking you at your word on that. We shall see!

[MMM]

Four of us went to Volt for RW lunch on Wednesday. All I can say is that this is a delightful restaurant - the setting is casual/elegant, the service top notch, and the food is sublime. They had some nice choices on the RW menu and the maitre d' indicated that they would probably extend that option at lunch for some time. I'm hoping to take advantage of this again soon!

[Lydia R]

I found myself late Saturday afternoon peckish and north of Frederick. Solution: bar lunch at Volt. Definitely hit the spot with the snacks menu [goat cheese ravioli, hot pastrami and a glass of Côtes du Rhône]. Most interestingly, it was the end of the day for nearby merchants and several dropped by for their quitting-time drink/snacks. Very cool.

If you think Volt's manager is well-Suited, you'll find his tailor is across the street. He's at Murdock's Tailoring & Alterations/Rags to Riches 237 N. Market Street. We probably don't need to be weekly regulars like the Steins, but a couple of trips to Volt would wrap-up long overdue alterations.

[susanmab]

gah! signals crossed + restaurant week = "I thought you made reservations" "oh, I thought you did". Followed by the inevitable same day call wherein we were politely told oh hell no.

my brother just enrolled at college in Emmitsburg, so there will be other trips out there I'm sure.

[Pool Boy]

I think it is funny at how many times the pictures of my Table 21 meal at Volt from last July get viewed on Flickr. It must be timed to re-runs of Top Chef episodes as it seems to happen in spurts. I need to get back there at some point...anyone been to their brunch?

[B.A.R.]

I had a delightful, perfectly executed meal in the Chef's Tasting room there this past Friday. However, this meal has kind of ended the tasting menu experience for me. Don't get me wrong, I loved everything, but all I keep thinking about was that I wish I would have had that burger, or the fish entree, I saw people eating in the bar while I waited for the table.

And kudos for having a wine by the glass program that was well crafted and gently priced, relevant to the quality. The Botani Moscato Seco is a delicious wine, and was $9 IIRC, & the Zind Humbrecht Pinot d'Alsace was around $10. Both generous pours.

The tasting menu was delightful, appealing, pretty, whimsical, astoundingly complex and exceedingly good. But that bar menu is making me hungry.

[fuzzy510]

I think it is funny at how many times the pictures of my Table 21 meal at Volt from last July get viewed on Flickr. It must be timed to re-runs of Top Chef episodes as it seems to happen in spurts. I need to get back there at some point...anyone been to their brunch?

I have not, but I've heard that it's very good.

[Lola007]

...anyone been to their brunch?

I haven't been yet, although I took a look at the brunch menu (which looked fantastic) when I was there for Restaurant Week last summer. I'd love to hear from someone who's tried Volt's brunch too...

[monavano]

Just saw this:

http://blog.voltrestaurant.com/?p=440

Table 21 is expanding-4 more seats, 2 seatings per night

[DanielK]

Awesome.

If anyone wants to gather a few Rockwellians to try to grab a recently opened slot, drop me a PM. I'm fine with trekking up on a weeknight to avoid the Fri/Sat crowds.

[chaofun]

After the expansion announcement, I tried all last week to get a reservation for me and Jenna's 2nd anniversary with no luck. No one was picking up, just voice mail all week. We had spent our 1st anniversary there before Top Chef made it so popular, and LOVED it. I really wanted to get in again. Obviously it was much easier last year to get in.

Luckily today instead of voice mail I got an actual person and secured a reservation! Go get a seat while you can.....

[Sthitch]

A friend invited my wife and me to join her at for dinner at the Chef’s table at Volt. In the past, I had passed up several other opportunities to give the restaurant a try and figured with a reservation becoming as hard to come by as those for the French Laundry and El Bulli I should give it a try (several months for Chef’s table, over a year for Table 21).

I have never seen a minute of Top Chef, so for better or worse, I went into dinner with no expectations of what to expect. What I found was a meal filled with plates that seemed slanted more towards appealing to the eye and displaying the chef’s cleverness than to providing sumptuous flavors.

So what about the meal? It started off beautifully with a Shitake Veloute that was a soup that would have made Tom Power proud to serve –complex and pleasing in flavor, with a deep rich finish that was made better by the accompanying Pinot Noir (for another bowl of this soup I might drive to Frederick). I foolishly decided to go pay the $12 supplement and get the foie gras, it is a strip of something akin to tofu than to a terrine. The dish appears to be a significant portion of foie gras, but instead it of the rich flavor and velvety texture you might expect from foie gras you get an unimpressive and diluted sense of what the liver could have otherwise provided.

The fish course was a seared arctic char that was nicely prepared but was nothing special, save for the umami laced meringue. The next dish was a seared pork belly that was draped with a sheet of BBQ sauce. This dish was all show, the pork had potential but was quite dry, the BBQ sauce that was formed in a gelatinized sheet proved very difficult to eat with the pork and at the same time quickly cooled the dish. The saving grace of this dish was an excellent citrus laced mustarda that would be prefect with any dish. The final savory dish was a beautifully cooked piece of prime strip, the steak was one of the best I have had in quite some time, however the rest of the plate was a mess. Surrounding the meat were three small piles of mashed potatoes each with a different color sauce in them, and along the side of the plate was a strip of gelatinized red pepper puree. With the exception of the painfully sweet brown sauce, the flavors were delicious, it just looked like a 10 year old designed the plating. Dessert was a trio of chocolates, and was plated exactly the same way as the foie gras.

The meal that I had seemed to rely too heavily on culinary trickery that distracted from the greatness of underlying ingredients, with the exception of the soup each dish would have been far better with a simpler presentation, that left the micro-scales and chemistry set in the lab. It appears to me that Mr. Voltaggio and his team are very talented but they are letting their ambition get ahead of them. This meal was quite good, but with the exception of the performance of the front of the house staff it fell far short of the greatest I have been hearing about.

[KMango]

Not able to see myself attending yet another marathon tasting menu, I never thought I would find myself at Volt’s Table 21. But an acquaintance made his reservation months ago and had to bow out unexpectedly. He offered his two seats to someone who then invited me. A four-day wait, rather than a hundreds-day wait, seemed like a fun and rare opportunity in a town I don’t visit often enough.

After meandering around Frederick most of the late afternoon, we headed over to Volt. We noticed someone had parked a Tesla in a prominent location. In addition, lights shone down on a Chevy Volt as part of a photo shoot in front of the building. It was feeling less like a restaurant block than a movie set, perhaps an Electric Battery Acid Test (Mischieftain shout out to the Pranksters!). The entryway scene seemed distracting, but also hella fun.

Our smiles faded once we walked in the door. We were the only two people approaching the host stand, and the hostess immediately barked “Do you have a reservation?” She offered no smile, no welcoming words, no sense of hospitality. And yes, we did have a reservation, but now we had a second one about the friendliness of the staff here.

I can probably only begin to appreciate the crush of customers Volt has been experiencing the past several months. Profits, sure, but the publicity and hassle factors must be astonishing with staff working frantically and heroically to keep up with demand. But honestly, a greeting like that? Who deserves such treatment, really? I don’t think we did.

Although we arrived at the 8:30 reservation time, we learned the table was not yet ready. So the hostess invited us to step into the bar.

Wowza, what a gorgeous space. If you are planning to visit Volt anytime soon, do take a moment to appreciate the stunning architecture and subtle details like the glass on the bar. Originally, I thought it was silica atop a silky, bunched fabric. But then I realized the “fabric” is an effect encased within the glass. It has a softly curved edge and shimmering metallic hue that make a uniquely beautiful placement.

Approaching the 8:45 mark, an apologetic sommelier arrived with two glasses and a bottle of sparkling wine in hand. The 5:30 seating was running over, he explained, chatty customers lingering too long resulted in course delays. His friendly, bubbly pour and sincere regret combined for an impressive soother. I was also pleased we did not have to ask about the status, he had initiated this communication.

But once he left, the clock kept ticking. As the time approached 9:30, we began to discuss our threshold for when we would need to walk out and perhaps try to hotwire the Tesla. At that exact moment (and unrelated to our banter…I think), we were seated.

The Table 21 semi-circle of eight chairs provides a magnificent perspective of the entire kitchen. By luck of the draw, we were fortunate to score a couple of chairs closer to the wall. If you are scheduled to go, I strongly recommend snagging seats in that same location. It seemed the other folks always had staff running back and forth behind them, which had to be at least mildly annoying.

As others have noted, this is not an interactive/dialogue experience with the chefs. This is time for you to get in touch with the food, and enjoy conversation with your dining companion. Table 21 is a special experience. But like a lot of things in life (keep your mind out of the fortune cookie!), what you take away from it will depend a lot on the quality of the dialogue you can have during it.

The sommelier introduced the first course as he assembled it, a liquid-nitrogen frozen lemonade laced with mint and Chambord, with a frothy wave of cream featuring locally-raised strawberries. But for each of the following courses, the staff spoke of them only to identify upon serving. Staff working Table 21 also darted out to the main floor frequently to deliver other dishes. I marveled at how they can get so much done in such a tiny kitchen with not nearly as many people as I’d expect. Volt powers an efficient machine.

And this was the quietest kitchen I have ever witnessed. No pots clanging, and barely any banter between the kitchen staff reached the table. I kept looking around for acoustical tiling or some other design magic. A gentle wave of heat would occasionally arise from the flaming burners and ovens (hell is not other people, it’s the average restaurant kitchen), but the counteracting air conditioning always kept the space in comfort. We noticed a merry-go-round of admiring guests from the main dining room continually snagging Chef V. off to the side for a photo op. He graciously accepted every one, showcasing a pose I plan to steal for my next family portrait.

The staff provided a wine list, but we felt puzzled by the absence of complementing flights. Instead, I received an offer to “be walked through” what might go well with the courses to follow. After the long wait at the bar and with rising hunger, that kind of conversation sounded like too much work. Instead, I just ordered “a Spanish white”, resulting in a dry and fruity selection. It wound up pairing beautifully with several of the early courses.

I understand the evening’s menu was probably constructed merely hours before, perhaps even moments before our seating, with a wide variety of flavor profiles. But an outsider such as me wonders why the sommelier could not collaborate with the chefs to sequence that night’s meal in a way that would work with a few mindfully chosen cellar selections. The ability to order a complimenting, three half-glass flight would have boosted my confidence in both the cogency of the upcoming food and the staff’s knowledge…along with a heightened sense of variety.

That being said, three or four of the courses were pray-to-Zeus/Demeter/Dionysus outstanding, more than a half dozen were great, most of the rest were good, with only one or two displaying conceptual or execution failures. The final three dessert courses were the least successful for me, but I am generally not a fan of the sweet stuff. Other than one temperature miss (noted below), and outside of the too-intense-for-me cold that comes from frozen nitrogen, all other dishes arrived at an ideal temperature and artful arrangement. And the harmony between dishes felt masterful, thematically integrated.

A couple of points about the courses overall:

➢With 21 courses on display, I expected at least one less-common protein (squid, quail, ostrich, bison, even a scallop), but pork belly, tenderloin of beef and lamb, lobster, and chicken took center stage. Then again, foie gras and sweetbreads appeared, so perhaps that counts.

➢Much to my delight, an unspoken theme of this meal was Fennel Fest 2010. Fennel pollen, fronds, and seeds pin-pricked many of the dishes. I loved it! But I wondered if others were as equally giddy getting their anise on.

➢Microgreens, especially arugula, also appeared on what seemed to be the majority of plates. This was a major bonus for me, since I adore their nutritional profile, their flavor, and the sense of growing optimism they bring to a plate. But I remember at least one of the dishes would have been better without them, too much of a good thing.

➢With nearly no exception, these were beautifully arranged plates. A half-dozen seemed too component-heavy, but most were artfully balanced. And I did find myself thinking "if you are going to fuss, fuss well—if you go to the trouble of pinhead-tiny cucumber scoops, for instance, snag some dark green skin every time, it’s prettier!"

➢Liquid nitrogen seemed to show up in more than a couple of courses. Others may enjoy the dramatic fanfare, but I found it too much of the wrong kind of focus. I wonder if they would ever be amenable to serving nitrous instead, punching up the fun factor…

➢Chalk this up to the personal preference column, but we found the parade of flatware distracting. Fork on the left, spoon, then knife on the right, these three distinct ventures into my personal space per course added up to annoying. Perhaps a fine dining faux pas, but it seems worthy to explore placing all three pieces down at the same time on the left to reduce the interruption quotient. And to revisit how much of that flatware was really needed--the staff delivered all three pieces for several courses that did not require all instruments. Not only did I wonder if this was a service shortcut, but several dozen flatware deliveries felt excessively invading.

A couple of headlines from the sensory deluge:

➢One of my favorite courses was the celery root macaron with foie gras—transcendent. This was one of about three courses that provided a masterpiece of aftertaste carrying all the way through to the next course. And I want it back!

➢The tuna tartare in rice gelatin “spring roll” provided a surprisingly delicate wrap texture. We found it incredibly smooth and delightfully seasoned, but a few degrees warmer than it should have been for optimal enjoyment.

➢The balsamic in the potato “dip” with dehydrated proscuitto “chips” elevated the flavor dramatically. Without the balsamic, the dish quickly became ordinary, so it was both elevator and savior. But I am stealing that dehydrating idea, my Excalibur will soon be getting quite the workout.

➢The focused flavor of the chicken wing in the chicken “Parmesan” was an intensely deep delight, the Parmesan noodles a playful twist.

➢The lobster course appeared to be served with tomalley, which actually turned out to be gnocchi. The broth in that dish was perhaps the most luscious flavor I’ve experienced all year--another aftertaste masterpiece.

➢I giggled a bit during the beet and goat cheese course. Might be trite, but it was tasty, damn it, the chèvre an unexpected cloud of texture and the variety of beets providing not-too-earthy foundation.

➢The Arctic char and sturgeon courses were each cooked perfectly, but crying out for acid, any acid!

About midway through, I desperately needed a bump of caffeine to keep going. The French Press “bold” house delivered a smooth brew at perfect temperature, a delightful cup of coffee.

On a less positive note, I would have welcomed FEMA and a team of puzzle-solvers to help me navigate the oddly designed bathroom. Granted, it’s a historic building with undoubtedly difficult space constraints. But I needed staff assistance to help me with the heavy sliding door. Both times I went in (hey, cut me some slack, this was a 4+ hour restaurant experience!), I found a small group of other patrons struggling with the electric eye/sliding lever sink device. Maybe it was a bad night for poorly engineered devices, but restrooms should not be this effortful.

On the drive home, we realized we failed to receive the recap menu we were promised at the beginning of the procession. Not a show-stopper, but was indicative of either our tired and rapid departure, a service oversight, or both. And yes, this means everything above is from memory, so take it with a grain of Maldon.

We also pondered the time lag between several of the courses. We questioned whether the earlier table had in fact been “chatty”, causing a delay in clearing the plates. Or, if instead, the subtle delay between courses added up to postponing our seating. If a table is being too conversational at a venue such as this, it seems the kitchen could see that coming, dual-deliver a course or two, and make up for lost time. Then again, that could potentially annoy the first table at the expense of the second, always a tough call. But the fact that we now question the “chatty” story is not good.

One other tip for anyone venturing Volt-wards soon: Make sure you choose valet or at least a nearby parking space. A family-friendly circus of hula hoop performers, surprisingly enjoyable live music, and face-painted kids adorned Market Street on the way in. But an entirely different scene greeted us on the way out well after midnight. Revelers cluttered the street immediately outside the bars, eyeing each other restlessly over their smokes. Better to aim for valet, and let the last taste in your mouth be what the chef intended, not what the revelers portended.

[Pool Boy]

A quick look at Open Table shows no reservations available in the next 8 weeks....AT ALL. Next time I go, I assume I will have to call, but I would very much prefer to go for their 'regular' menu.

I think I am beyond tasting menus. Have they jumped the shark?

[will_5198]

There were other highlights too, such as a fantastic tuna tartare with soy air

I went for lunch a few weeks ago and the tuna tartare was indeed excellent. Despite being such an overused dish, VOLT's preparation was a refreshing take.

It's a shame that Frederick is quite a distance for me, because the $25.10 prix fixe lunch they've been running is an absolute steal. Lunch reservations are also *much* easier to book, with only a couple days notice needed. I'll be back if Table 21 has an opening sometime this decade.

[Skipper10]

I have just now read your review of Volt's table 21. WOW! Thank you for taking the time. I have already put Table 21 on my "must experience" list, although I am not big on tasting menus. Did you take any pictures? Or, perhaps, I should ask whether you were allowed to take pictures? I am told photography is strictly verboten at Kommi. Asking because there was quite a rant in yesterday's Sietsema's chat against people who take pictures of their food. Who knew that by photographing my plate I was so deeply offending someone at another table. Skipper

[KMango]

I have just now read your review of Volt's table 21. WOW! Thank you for taking the time. I have already put Table 21 on my "must experience" list, although I am not big on tasting menus. Did you take any pictures? Or, perhaps, I should ask whether you were allowed to take pictures? I am told photography is strictly verboten at Kommi. Asking because there was quite a rant in yesterday's Sietsema's chat against people who take pictures of their food. Who knew that by photographing my plate I was so deeply offending someone at another table. Skipper

Glad the info is helpful.

Everyone has their own preferences, but I rarely, if ever, take photos of restaurant food. For me, that's robbing the present moment to pay a future memory.

(hallmark did not write that)

(i did)

(so there)

[Skipper10]

Glad the info is helpful.

Everyone has their own preferences, but I rarely, if ever, take photos of restaurant food. For me, that's robbing the present moment to pay a future memory.

(hallmark did not write that)

(i did)

(so there)

You turned me "green" twice within a few hours: not only you snagged a seat at Table 21 without any effort&waiting, you have memory that allows you not to rely on help from outside sources. Unfortunately for me, without my "visual aids" I would not remember what I had a week ago, let alone where I had it. (G) Skipper

[StorageLady]

We stopped by Volt during In The Street for lunch. While there, we tried to get reservations fro Table 21 for a date in the future. We were told that they were no longer taking reservations as they were fully booked through 2011 (yes, 11)

Darn.

[fuzzy510]

We stopped by Volt during In The Street for lunch. While there, we tried to get reservations fro Table 21 for a date in the future. We were told that they were no longer taking reservations as they were fully booked through 2011 (yes, 11)

Darn.

Does anybody know if they keep a waiting list?