New Orleans, LA

[MC Horoscope]

Joe -- Brett Anderson, the Times-Picayune's restaurant critic, is currently on a quest for the best Roast Beef Po Boy in New Orleans. Here is a link to his recent post about Mothers. It is clear that he does not think it is what it once was.

http://www.nola.com/...eef_po-boy.html

You can click on the list of spots at the end to see other reviews. I haven't read them all, but interestingly, he gives high marks to Short Stop in Metairie.

.

Don't know if the Acme Oyster House in the French Quarter is too touristy like Mothers, but the one in Covington is outstanding for its 10-Napkin Roast Beef and Debris po-boy. Surprised Acme is not on the list.

[Tweaked]

we had Po-Boys at Acme (FQ location) last year and they were average...especially after having Po-Boys at Mahoneys the day before. You could just tell by looking at the sandwich it just wasn't going to be as good!

The baskets of crawfish at Acme on the other hand, excellent.

[frogprince]

Reading over this thread in prep for a quick visit to NO for a wedding this month, knowing that I'll have a limited amount of time, the only thing I thought of that I had to try was a muffaletta at Central Grocery, I didn't focus on beignets because I'm not into sweets. What other foods would you definitely fit in, if you were there for 3 days?

For such a brief visit, and in such a locale as New Orleans with its quite literally dizzying array of eatingdrinkingdancingmusicculture, I'd try to hit the big boys, as it were:

August or Galatoire's, very different restaurants, each exceptional in its own right, though I would say Galatoire's if you want to get a more, hmm... "historical" meal, a repast that demands your attention remain focused solely on southeastern Louisiana and its complicated, incestuous history; August is just Awesome, though decidedly more modern.

Zydeco at Rock N'Bowl

Cochon because, well, if youre on this board, youre either A: Industry or B: Lover of good food and libations (or both) and, in whichever camp you herald from, you simply must go if in NOLA, because Cochon is that.damn.good.

[jparrott]

For such a brief visit, and in such a locale as New Orleans with its quite literally dizzying array of eatingdrinkingdancingmusicculture, I'd try to hit the big boys, as it were:

August or Galatoire's, very different restaurants, each exceptional in its own right, though I would say Galatoire's if you want to get a more, hmm... "historical" meal, a repast that demands your attention remain focused solely on southeastern Louisiana and its complicated, incestuous history; August is just Awesome, though decidedly more modern.

Zydeco at Rock N'Bowl

Cochon because, well, if youre on this board, youre either A: Industry or B: Lover of good food and libations (or both) and, in whichever camp you herald from, you simply must go if in NOLA, because Cochon is that.damn.good.

This post captures the essence of a three-day trip extremely well--except that, if one is faced with a choice between Cochon and Cochon Butcher, one must choose Cochon Butcher.

[ad.mich]

To follow up on a few of the more recent comments here

-Yes, the FQ Acme is touristy, but it is one of the more reliable casual lunch spots in the quarter. If they must, I know plenty of locals who'll happily eat at that FQ Acme but they'll stick to what they do best. Oysters (raw or fried but especially chargrilled) and crawfish and a perfectly decent gumbo.

-That itinerary from frogprince sounds awesome, but for the 'fancy' meal... if you're going to do Galatoire's the true experience is Friday lunch there. Friday lunch at Galatoire's is about as New Orleans as it gets.

-The roast beef column for the Time Pic is a great idea for readership because it will just get people fired up - everyone has a different idea of the perfect roast beef poor boy. These people are all idiots though, as the correct answer is clearly finely shredded meat (debris style), dressed but no mayo, and extra gravy. Mahoney's is knocking that style out of the park these days.

[Choirgirl21]

This post captures the essence of a three-day trip extremely well--except that, if one is faced with a choice between Cochon and Cochon Butcher, one must choose Cochon Butcher.

Wholeheartedly disagree. They're 2 totally different things. If you want a really fucking good sandwich, got to Butcher. If you want a pigtastic meal with great cocktails or wine, go to Cochon. They're both awesome in their own right, but if I only had time for one or the other and money or my appetite weren't factors, I would choose Cochon (and get a sandwich from Butcher for the plane ride home ).

[jparrott]

Wholeheartedly disagree. They're 2 totally different things. If you want a really fucking good sandwich, got to Butcher. If you want a pigtastic meal with great cocktails or wine, go to Cochon. They're both awesome in their own right, but if I only had time for one or the other and money or my appetite weren't factors, I would choose Cochon (and get a sandwich from Butcher for the plane ride home ).

Every time I've been to Cochon (5 or 6 times, and I continue to go, because I do like it), something's been off.

Every time I've been to Butcher, it hasn't. It's cheaper, the wine offerings are as well-chosen and are better priced (though not as numerous), the cocktails are executed better, and the vibe is spot on.

That said, this is a bit of an "angels dancing on the head of a pin" situation. I've eaten at both in the same day. More than once.

[Heather]

-That itinerary from frogprince sounds awesome, but for the 'fancy' meal... if you're going to do Galatoire's the true experience is Friday lunch there. Friday lunch at Galatoire's is about as New Orleans as it gets.

The lunch I had at Galatoire's two years ago is probably in my top 5 meals of my life.

[Choirgirl21]

Every time I've been to Cochon (5 or 6 times, and I continue to go, because I do like it), something's been off.

Every time I've been to Butcher, it hasn't. It's cheaper, the wine offerings are as well-chosen and are better priced (though not as numerous), the cocktails are executed better, and the vibe is spot on.

That said, this is a bit of an "angels dancing on the head of a pin" situation. I've eaten at both in the same day. More than once.

I may have to take back what I said. I was comparing Cochon to Butcher's sandwiches (and other "lunch" offerings) and just think it's apples to oranges, but your post made me think that at some point I was aware that Butcher does other dinner offerings. If that's the case and that's what you're referring to, I will temporarily rescind my statement until I have the chance to eat dinner at Butcher. Otherwise, I stand by my statement.

[jparrott]

I may have to take back what I said. I was comparing Cochon to Butcher's sandwiches (and other "lunch" offerings) and just think it's apples to oranges, but your post made me think that at some point I was aware that Butcher does other dinner offerings. If that's the case and that's what you're referring to, I will temporarily rescind my statement until I have the chance to eat dinner at Butcher. Otherwise, I stand by my statement.

Naw, it's the same menu all day. There's a lot on there that's not sandwiches, but there aren't large plates like on the Cochon menu. The large plates are often where the clunkers are on the Cochon menu, however.

[Joe H]

Joe -- Brett Anderson, the Times-Picayune's restaurant critic, is currently on a quest for the best Roast Beef Po Boy in New Orleans. Here is a link to his recent post about Mothers. It is clear that he does not think it is what it once was.

http://www.nola.com/...eef_po-boy.html

You can click on the list of spots at the end to see other reviews. I haven't read them all, but interestingly, he gives high marks to Short Stop in Metairie.

.

John, thanks for the link. We'll go back next year and, with a rental car, will explore at least two of them.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angelo_Brocato's is the James Beard Award winning extraordinary Angelo Brocato's. Their best ice cream flavor is caramel pecan.

Serious.

"Fine Italian ice cream and pastries since 1905." http://www.angelobrocatoicecream.com/

[Choirgirl21]

Naw, it's the same menu all day. There's a lot on there that's not sandwiches, but there aren't large plates like on the Cochon menu. The large plates are often where the clunkers are on the Cochon menu, however.

Huh, seems we just had different experiences although you've been there more often and more recently than I have.

[ad.mich]

Those Cochon Butcher muffalettas travel really well. But get ready for curses and threats from seatmates if you pull one out without sharing. You can also get the best green onion sausage poor boy in the city (if you're into that sort of thing) next door at Nola Grocery.

One thing I should have added about Galatoire's is that (unless things have changed) making a reservation will put you upstairs, while the walk-ins get to be in the action downstairs. Sitting downstairs, having a sazerac or three, and getting elegantly wasted over a three hour lunch is what Friday at Galatoire's is all about. Come early and get one of those downstairs spots for the full experience.

[jparrott]

One thing I should have added about Galatoire's is that (unless things have changed) making a reservation will put you upstairs, while the walk-ins get to be in the action downstairs. Sitting downstairs, having a sazerac or three, and getting elegantly wasted over a three hour lunch is what Friday at Galatoire's is all about. Come early and get one of those downstairs spots for the full experience.

I usually get into the queue around 8am for Friday lunches. "Line-sitters" hired by law firms will already be there, but you should get in the first seating without too much trouble. A fellow will come out and start taking names about 10am. You still have to remain in the queue (but only one person per party). They open the doors and let you up in the bar at 11.

I don't think I've ever left a Friday lunch at Galatoire's earlier than 4pm. Sometimes later. Much later.

[johnb]

Those Cochon Butcher muffalettas travel really well. But get ready for curses and threats from seatmates if you pull one out without sharing. You can also get the best green onion sausage poor boy in the city (if you're into that sort of thing) next door at Nola Grocery.

One other possibility for picking up an excellent muff for the plane is to stop at Norjoe in old Metairie on the way to the airport. That, in fact, is exactly what Tony Bourdain did on his way to the airport in his NOLA show -- he was filmed outside, with the sun setting, chomping away as the final music played.

It's about a 5 minute drive from the City Park Avenue exit off I-10.

.

[thistle]

Back from our NO trip & I didn't get a muffaletta from Central Grocery, but I did squeeze in a lot of eating. Weather was miserable, but it miraculously cleared for the Friday evening wedding in the courtyard of Cafe Amelie. After a long travel day Wed., we slogged out in the rain & visited Mother's, which was about 2 blocks from our hotel-got a shrimp po' boy, not mind-blowing, but just what I needed.

We tried to walk down to Cafe Beignet the next morning, but the rain turned Lizzy & I back, Josh forged on & got beignets & coffee. We spent the rainy day at the WWII museum & had lunch at the American Sector. I had the shrimp in a cup w/ spicy aioli & blackeyed peas & rice, both were delicious. Although we had to attend the rehearsal dinner that evening (Byblos-average Mediterranean), Lizzy & I walked to Domenica for happy hour 1/2 price pizzas, which were great-spicy lamb meatballs, rapini, ricotta, & mint for me (didn't really taste the mint) & quattro formaggi for Lizzy.

We did manage to make to Cafe Beignet Friday morning, but beignets are not really my thing, I had a bite to say I tried it. We had a nice long walk around the French Quarter & along the waterfront. For lunch, Tom, Lizzy, & I walked to Cochon Butcher, which I think was my favorite meal-Tom & I split a muffaletta & a gambino-Salami cotto, coppa, soppresatta, arugula & herb vinaigrette-one of the best sandwiches I've ever had. I think I preferred it to the muffaletta, which was served warm (I'd like it better cold, it was still good, but that gambino was great). On the way back, we picked up a shrimp Caesar salad at the Commerce restaurant for Lizzy (who's a pescetarian)-it was enormous & delicious & quite inexpensive. This unassuming little restaurant was right across from our hotel & I wished that I had tried it earlier, maybe for breakfast. As much as I wanted to bop around the corner to Luke for happy hour oysters (ok, I just wanted the beer), the wedding started at 5:30-food was excellent, & it was a beautiful wedding for my lovely SIL & her new husband(who has been part of the family for awhile).

Kind of a whirlwind trip (we were up at 3 am for 6 am flight, Lizzy actually is attending a ball this evening, which forced our early departure), but we thoroughly enjoyed it (although Tom hates sightseeing, he loves to eat!). I look forward to going back for a longer trip. Thank you all for all the tips & suggestions, I really wish we had more time to get out & hear some music, but it wasn't possible this trip...next time....

[johnb]

For all who may be interested, Brett Anderson recently completed his quest for the best Roast Beef Po Boy and published his findings. Click

[Joe H]

For all who may be interested, Brett Anderson recently completed his quest for the best Roast Beef Po Boy and published his findings. Click

Anyone who smells his food before eating it (note photo in link) is someone whose opinion I respect. And, if this person has eaten Po Boys all over New Orleans (perhaps ad nauseum) I am...well...jealous! Did you see the sandwich in those pictures? Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Serious. Wow!

[Adam23]

For all who may be interested, Brett Anderson recently completed his quest for the best Roast Beef Po Boy and published his findings. Click

Just back from a quick trip to New Orleans. Decided to check out R&O referenced in this article as the best. The sandwich was very very very good. One of the better sandwiches i've had in a while. Great bread and the roast beef was flavorful and delicious. Highly recommended.

Other highlight was Couchon Butcher. Had a pastrami reuben and a cubano. Pastrami sandwich was easily in my top three ever. So good. The cubano was delicious as well. Highly recommended.

[Tweaked]

Survived a very rainy, thundery, lightningy weekend in New Orleans...at least the constant cloud coverage kept the temps down, most nights it was down in the 70s!

One problem with New Orleans is you find so many good places, how do you ax any off the list? This trip we tried to incorporate some new places while returning to some of our favorites:

Tried and True (the short version)

Cochon - Arrive at hotel, check-in, walk over to Cochon for a late lunch. Fried boudin balls, nuff said.

Mahoney's - Cochon po-boy...eat early if you want to be hungry again.

A Mano - Italian in NOLA? Get the burrata and caponata and you will understand.

Acme - crawfish, crawfish, crawfish

August - Pre-fixe $20 3-course lunch served Mon-Fri. If you are not hitting this then you have issues.

Cafe Du Monde - I mean, it really is the perfect way to cap a night of drinking.

New (to me anyway)

Bacchanal - Treme watchers will be familar with this joint. Way off the tourist track in the far reaches of the Bywater, you will want to take a cab ($12 or so from Canal Street...and you will have to call a cab to pick you up when you leave..but it's only a 5-10 minute cab ride to Frenchman Street). Wine shop, cheese shop, kitchen, backyard with tables and lawn furniture, a small bar, live music every night. Buy a bottle of wine and then take it out back to enjoy. The food won't blow you away, but it was all solidly good: brussel sprout salad was fresh and crisp; ceviche had very good fish could have used more acid and kick; pequillo peppers stuffed with crab meat, sweet corn, crema was one of the better dishes; fried eggplant needed the toppings of peppers, feta, capers and pinenuts. The braised pork shoulder over hominy was very good (request some hot sauce) and at $12 it was a complete steal and a meal by itself.

Arnaud's French 75 - A truly civilized place to enjoy a pre-dinner cocktail in the Quarter. We were worried about our level of dress, but no one blinked at my (nice) jeans and polo shirt...and then two guys walked in wearing shorts and t-shirts and ordered Miller Lites...so I guess they take all types. Enjoyed the Scofflaw and Curari, the French 75 and Bartlett Cobbler were ok.

French Market Creole Tomato Festival - Always seems to be some sort of festival going on in NOLA. It's all about the tomatoes...fairly typical festival, street vendors, food stalls etc. At least worth a walk through.

Louisiana Cajun-Zydeco Festival - Just keep on walking past the tomatoes to the Old Mint Building. Tons of fun, three stages set up playing zydeco all afternoon. Grab some beers, plenty of food stalls set up, really good pralines from Tee-Eva's (you'll never want Aunt Sally's again). Just watch out for the thunder storms!

Old Mint Building - If you happen to be at a zydeco festival and a thunder storm hits seek shelter at the Old Mint. A curiously interesting first floor explores the history of the mint. Upstairs is an exhibit about Preservation Hall and starting in 2013, the Old Mint will house an exhibit on the history of jazz. Not a bad way to kill an hour waiting out a storm...and then get back to the zydeco.

Irvin Mayfield's I Club - Don't feel like treking over to Frenchman or up to the Maple Leaf, then consider Irvin Mayfield's I Club in the JW Marriott hotel on Canal Street. More of an upscale joint, dark, couches, cocktail waitresses. Mayfield's Los Hombres Calientes play regular gigs and Kermit Ruffins hosts a mid-week DJ session. You may or may not have to pay a $15 cover (we did not after the promoter let us in for free). Los Hombres Calientes went on around 10:30 and played until 12:30 or so. The I club is more sceney then the dive bar atmosphere of Frenchman but it's a relaxed place to kick back and hear some good jazz.

Cajun Power Spicy Garlic Sauce - I hear it's good enough to divorce over. Can be found at most of the hot sauce stores around the French Market...8oz bottles $5-$6 range. It is tasty.

[Joe H]

Martin, thank you for sharing. Wonderful read!

[frogprince]

"do you know what it means, to miss new orleans?"

[ad.mich]

Best meal I had last weekend was at Cochon and it wasn't particularly close. The fried oyster and meat pie was like a surf-and-turf nacogdoches meat pie, or (if that doesn't make sense) a fried spicy empanada. We were fighting over it at the table. Paneed pork cheeks with roasted corn grits & tomato salad was a nice small plate with nicely prepared meat but just killer electric red creole tomatoes. As meat-centric as things were, when veg was involved it was really great summer produce throughout. Roast goat stuffed biscuit was texturally a little gooey in the middle from the meat and gravy, like how the bottom of a pot pie can get a little soggy - personally I dig that but not everyone at the table liked it as much. Fried rabbit livers with pepper jelly on toast came with some peppery greens and made for a nice balanced bite of food. The livers were oddly not as liver-y as you might expect. Even the adverse dug in. We were comped an oyster roast that was significant for the size of the summer oysters but not much different from the other grilled oysters you see around town. We were also sent over some fried alligator with chili garlic aoli. Seemed like it would be a callout for the tourists but it was well cooked (not rubbery at all). The fry station at cochon has their game tight. Mushroom salad with deep fried beef jerky & lemon vinaigrette came with a stronger citrus bend than was expected but it was nicely refreshing after the weight of all the aps. Deep fried beef jerky should be a topping on more things. Rabbit and dumplings for the table was a beautiful plate of homestyle food. Big ass drop dumplings over a slow brown gravy stew of veg and rabbit. Smoked brisket was solid but not spectacular - I actually liked the horseradish potato salad it came with more. Maybe the best shrimp and eggplant dressing in the city. Fantastic roasted corn. Dessert was ok - would have rather had another cocktail.

Oh and Butcher still makes the best muffalatta in the city.

Crabby Jack's is still comically overstuffing their seafood poboys. If you have the means to get out there go. Their roast duck poboy continues to be a sloppy, nasty pleasure too.

There's a Camelia Grill in the quarter now which is weird. I had settled on the eggs benedict po boy at Stanley as the hangover cure of choice in that neck of the woods, but something about whizzing an omelette in a blender before tossing it on the flat top does wonders. It saved my life last weekend.

Oh, and if you have the chance - New Orleans Ice Cream Company has a limited release pint of cafe au lait ice cream with beignet pieces and powdered sugar swirl. It's worth popping in the grocery to see if they have it.

[dcandohio]

"do you know what it means, to miss new orleans?"

Sadly, so sadly...YES. But I'm headed back in two weeks.

[SeanMike]

Sadly, so sadly...YES. But I'm headed back in two weeks.

3 days for me! HOLY CRAP I AM EXCITED.

I haven't been to Crabby Jack's in ages, but dunno if it'll happen this time, either.

[ad.mich]

I haven't been to Crabby Jack's in ages, but dunno if it'll happen this time, either.

The amount of shrimp and oysters in the fried seafood po boys we got were just ridiculous - basically a seafood platter with some bread. It was to the point where I almost questioned where that seafood is coming from. If it wasn't the former Louisiana Seafood Exchange I probably would have asked.

There are plenty of places closer, but I was happy to have randomly been in that neck of the woods.

[MC Horoscope]

I thought this picture of Middendorf's might disappear from the link, so I put it on my own server space. Heartbreaking.

http://npmusic.org/Middendorfs.jpg

[MC Horoscope]

If you can ever make it to Irene's Cuisine on St. Philip St. on a Monday (we went early), they have maybe the best lasagna I have ever tasted! Veal and sausage and fried eggplant and the tenderest lasagna noodles I have ever had. And my wife sure enjoyed her lamb chops, which our server recommended as the best entree. Lasagna is a house special on Mondays. Wonder what the other days have in store?

We stumbled into the bar at Folse and Tramonto's Restaurant R'evolution, which is in the Royal Sonesta Hotel where we were waiting for a jazz night. Didn't know about it! What's with the apostrophe in R'evolution? We already have a good word, Revolution.

Wife's Sazerac was much stronger than the one at Napoleon House. And I had a gin with persimmon ratafia and aperol, very refreshing and tasty for the season! We could see in the dining room and service looked good to me. People were having a good old time. At the end they brought out what looked like a jewelry box with a bunch of goodies in it as a final set of treats. Our waitress in the bar area was very friendly.

Roast beef poboy at Johnny's in the French Quarter was great, but I had two that were better in Maurice and Lake Charles. In Maurice, go to Villager's Cafe. The pot roast poboy on Langlinais' delicious French bread was fantastic! Better than that was Darrell's in Lake Charles, a sports bar near McNeese University off Ryan Street. We split a surf and turf, which was roast beef and gravy with sauteed shrimp and jalapeno mayonnaise and lettuce, tomato, cheese, American and provolone cheese. Can't eat like that around here! But the most popular one is the Darrell's Special with roast beef, gravy, turkey, ham, jalapeno mayo, and cheeses. Parking lot was full at noon on a Thursday. We had to wait around for a spot to open up for us.

The fried catfish at Spahr's in Des Allemands was beautifully fried and fresh but I like more seasoning on it. I think it's better at Soop's in Maurice. However, Spahr's had a very nice shrimp crab and sausage gumbo with a very dark roux.

One of the original Soop's sisters opened up her own place on Kaliste Saloom in Lafayette, Rachel's, but we didn't have a chance to try it. Next time!

[Pool Boy]

Will be deliciously reading this thread soon....anything not to be missed of late? Hoping to go soon. TIA!

[Choirgirl21]

I shouldn't have come in here. Now I want to go to New Orleans. The friend who I visited down there last year pointed out yesterday that it had been exactly a year since I had been. I may need to think about heading down there this spring.

[frogprince]

GO

[frogprince]

P.S. Softshell season starts EARLY down there...

[ad.mich]

Crawfish season is already rolling too.

[Pool Boy]

Has anyone been to Coquette or R'evolution yet? Thoughts?

[Pool Boy]

Coquette, Herbsaint and Cochon (in that order) - only had three dinners. Herbsaint was it for me, but my wife pointed out subtle differences and I agree with her. More on this soon.

Domilise's poboys are seriously amazing. And, poboys in general wipe the floor with muffalettas (though the olive 'salad' is quite good).

Beignets at Cafe du Monde are fine, but I think my wife makes them better - what's with the 3 pounds of powdered sugar to go with?!

Brennan's for breakfast was fun and delicious, but the only really eye opening thing was the turtle soup.

Best Sazerac we had was at Herbsaint (and we had a lot of these).

[frogprince]

A great muffuletta is an excellent, albeit rather common, combination of cured meat, cheese, quality bread and the deliciously necessary acidic component, in Nola's case the olive salad; an admirable, no, extraordinary addition to the cold cut combo.

A GREAT po boy puts one firmly in one's place, feet planted anywhere from the Delta to Magazine st. A sandwich it may be in definition, a sensational dish, evocative of the musky alluvial muds from which it came, it shall always remain and always shall be in sure capable hands

[Sundae in the Park]

A GREAT po boy puts one firmly in one's place, feet planted anywhere from the Delta to Magazine st. A sandwich it may be in definition, a sensational dish, evocative of the musky alluvial muds from which it came, it shall always remain and always shall be in sure capable hands

This. The first time I went to New Orleans, I didn't eat pork or shellfish, so I pretty much subsisted on catfish po boys and beignets (and booze. Lots of crappy booze). Now that I eat pork, whole horizons have opened up to me, but I still plan to spend a large portion of my upcoming trip eating my way through the po boy scene. Debris sandwich smackdown!

[johnb]

Debris sandwich smackdown!

See post #267 et seq. above. Or just click here.

[Sundae in the Park]

See post #267 et seq. above. Or just click here.

Yup, that's my inspiration, can't wait! I literally drool a little when I read that article...

[mdt]

The wife surprised me with a weeklong trip to New Orleans. She coordinated some reservations for lunch and dinner. Here is a brief run down of some places we visited on our trip to New Orleans.

Mahoney's - Down the street from our apartment and was our first lunch after we dropped our stuff off. Cochon po'boy was unremarkable with tasteless pork and coleslaw. The pot-roast beef was simply OK. The sesame roll was pretty good, but if this is supposed to be a good example I just don't get what the fuss is about. I am sure folks will tell me where to go next time.

Emeril's Delmonico - Easily the best meal of the trip. Excellently prepared dishes with loads of flavor. The Jumbo Gulf Shrimp Courtbouillon (house made chaurice sausage, crab boil mirliton, trinity, vinegar peppers) was superb. The traditional bananas foster prepared table-side was easily the dessert of the trip.

August - Technically prepared food that was good, but nothing special. We are way too spoiled here in DC with high end places that meals like this are just not that exciting anymore. The appetizers and desserts were much better than the entrees. The Banana Pudding (peanut butter, marshmallow and nilla wafer ice cream) was the 2nd best dessert of the trip. A "modern" dessert plating with freeze-dried (IIRC) peanut butter and homemade marshmallow fluff. Having the lunch special would have been a wiser expenditure of cash.

Cochon Butcher - Awesome muffaletta. Wish I would have made another stop here to try some other stuff. Much, much better than the po'boys, not even close. Is there always a line here?

Cochon - Very good, but we got the bum's rush. We had a 5p reservation so that we could have a relaxed drink and dinner before a night of music and they did everything they could to get us out as fast as possible. We had a cocktail, apps, entrees, dessert, and then coffee and were out in a little over 90 minutes. Entrees were delivered just as we finished the apps and the check was dropped without us asking for it before we had finished dessert. They were not happy when we asked for coffee. All the folks sitting around us were in and out as fast or quicker than we were so I guess it's normal SOP. Certainly not a good impression. As for the food, the crawfish & green tomato casserole and the louisiana cochon (with turnips, cabbage, pickled turnips & cracklins) were excellent. For dessert the chocolate peanut butter pie (with candied spicy peanuts) was a hit.

Galitoire's - Showed up at 230p for a late lunch (our days were shifted late ) on a Thursday and obviously had no problem getting a table. They asked if we had a preferred waiter, I guess we looked like we belonged or they were just humoring us, but the few folks eating around us were certainly regulars. Food was good and I enjoyed the Godchaux Salad.

Commander's Palace - A short walk from our apartment through the Garden District made this an easy stop for lunch. Most places have a reduced price lunch menu with a couple of courses around $16-$20. Commander's Palace has something quite nice, 25¢ martinis, that are well made with Beefeater Gin. The Strawberry Molasses Lacquered Quail (Cochon de lait boudin stuffed quail over caramelized onions, bacon lardons, and garlic wilted greens with sticky strawberry-apple jus) was excellent. Dessert was Creole Bread Pudding Soufflé (Finished table-side with warm whiskey cream) and is worth ordering.

Coquette - Small place in the Garden District that is run by a chef that was previously at August. Excellently prepared food and the desserts were very good too. Sea Scallops (pork belly, beet jam, marinated kale) was excellent as was a special strawberries and cream dessert.

Slim Goodies & Coulis - Two small local places in the Garden District near our apartment that have a good breakfast/lunch menu.

Overall notes:

All the higher end places had exceptional service that makes most places in DC pale in comparison. The servers were also knowledgeable about the menu and provided good information when asked about various dishes on the menu. They also spoke without a hint of pretense or arrogance when reviewing the menu and the specials that was quite refreshing.

Something that struck us as humorous is that if you wear dark clothes, you get a black napkin. It was interesting to see how quickly they switched them out. I know there was some discussion of this in the past, but I don't recall any DC places doing it.

Non-food notes:

The National WWII museum is a must visit.

Go see Glen David Andrews at d.b.a. on Frenchman St. on Monday night.

Commander's Palace has a flyer in the lobby with a map for a walking tour of mansions that was a fun post lunch stroll.

[dcandohio]

Just returned from "home." Brigsten's is still wonderful. Set on a cozy old home on Dante Street, at the bend in the river, it is off the radar of people who don't get out of the downtown area. Pan fried specked trout with a shrimp meuniere sauce and butternut squash/shrimp bisque. OMG. Lovely. Decent crayfish bisque at the Hermes bar at Antione's. Deanie's, an old Bucktown staple, has a spiffed up French Quarter location. Seriously large portions of perfectly fried seafood and a very good gumbo hit the spot. Didn't love John Besh's Borgne.

To echo mdt, service was great everywhere we went. Even the bus drivers, made crazy by st. Patrick's festivites that wreaked havoc on bus routes, were helpful and friendly. Servers in restaurants and bars were happy to answer questions and to talk about food and drinks.

It's a lot of fun to experience my hometown as a tourist.

[Sundae in the Park]

Love that City. It had been way too long. Now that my husband's a (HUGE) fan, I expect we'll get to go back, maybe even for jazzfest again! The food and drink definitely made the trip, though the City has such character on its own. We tried lots of things:

Stanley - Our plates were huge and RICH so plan accordingly if you plan to eat more that day. They have poached eggs down and the corned beef hash was large chunks of the real deal. The bananas foster french toast actually has ice cream on it! It's an absurd breakfast item that was inhaled before I got done with my first egg. The location couldn't be better for a first meal in NOLA after a redeye flight in. We took a nap in Jackson Square afterwards.

Felix - the soupy/stew dishes were kind of weak (overly salty, muddy flavors), but the shellfish and fried fish were excellent. Bonus for actually being able to seat us in a reasonable amount of time.

August - I went in for the lunch prix fixe on my own and sat in the bar area. It's a gorgeous restaurant, with dark wood, natural light, tall ceilings, sparkling chandeliers, and exposed brick. As everyone has said before, the lunch is an amazing deal, probably the best in town, coming with an amuse and extra treats with the check on top of your generously apportioned three courses. I had the pork pate, fish, and hazelnut tart, all with lovely presentation. The pate plate, in particular, is beautiful and delicious. I think I would have felt guilty for such getting such a bargain if I hadn't had a few mimosas as well. Beware indeed! They cost more than my food, but the whole experience was not to be missed.

Luke - I enjoyed lunch so much we tried Luke for dinner! We also ate at the bar there and it didn't feel much like a hotel restaurant. The express menu here is also an amazing deal; the menu doesn't mention it, but we got a soup, entree, and dessert, all seemingly full-sized. We had the “Court-bouillon”, grilled fish, and steak. All were simply prepared, in keeping with the bistro nature of the restaurant and quite good. Our bartender was chatty and quick on the draw with batches of their cocktails.

Coop's - We had to wait for quite a while and then the non-fried things (red beans and rice, jambalaya, gumbo) were decidedly mushy and subpar. The fried things, chicken and shrimp, however, are great, so if you stick to those you will still be a fan.

Cochon Butcher - the longest walk and best meal of the trip. I had the mac and cheese and a special cochon au lait sandwich. HEAVY perfection, both, though the sandwich had a bright sauce (chimmichurri? something like that) that lightened it considerably. YUM! Maybe next time we'll just stay in that neighborhood and eat ourselves comatose every day.

Sylvain - went twice! First time was divine - cozied up to the bar with fun drinks, luscious pork shoulder, bright and simple brussel sprout salad, and creamy pate. The second time we went for brunch and it was...strange. We were completely orphaned once we were seated. We had to ask for everything - silverware, drinks, to order - from several different, rather indifferent, rather puzzled people. After a while it was sorted and one of the puzzled folk turned out to be our waiter (it was clear that he had already been reprimanded, so we didn't say anything to management). Things progressed fairly normally from there but the experience had already eaten up a chunk of our time and tempers, they were out of the dishes we wanted, and the food ended up with wasn't nearly as good as the previous visit. The fried chicken biscuits appeared to be breast only and were dry, which was disappointing. Someone did make us up a fabulous honey-lemon hot water, though.

Johnny's and Parasol's - so, after all the po' boy buildup, I didn't like them as much as I remembered/thought I would! They were good - both places had nice sandwiches with piles of meat and flavor and fluffy bread, as well as a lot of character in the dining rooms and staff, but I just like other food that NO has to offer better (ahem, I wish I had eaten all the sandwiches at Butcher). No big deal, I just wouldn't go out of my way to eat them (except for maybe R&O, I still want to try theirs).

Cafe Beignet/Cafe Du Monde - the lines were killer!! At least during the day. We were able to grab some late night beignets at Du Monde, and I had coffee at Cafe Beignet once. Both were fine but not worth a huge wait.

General notes: New Orleans is a difficult to place to not have a plan, if you don't want to wait to eat and aren't in the mood for sandwiches. Reservations and advance planning are a must, as all those other people also want to eat great food! And even then, grab a drink and be prepared to wait. The Old Mint is a great place to catch some cultural programming and concerts, and the National Park Service does tours of the French Market area every morning, which are nice if you're new to town. Yes, if you can walk to/in the French Quarter and the Old Mint you can walk to the relevant portion of Frenchman's Street. That was an issue that had concerned us until we tried it. The Commander's Palace walking tour of the Garden District is very nice (thanks mdt!) and available online here.

[Choirgirl21]

About to book a flight to New Orleans for early/mid-May! Having trouble deciding whether to give myself an extra night there so help me decide by answering this question.

Staying with friends who have a 1(ish) year old. Saturday the hubby will babysit so we can go out to a nice meal (almost definitely Cochon as I love that place and miss it on my last trip). Sunday we will eat in or do something very casual like Company Burger. Monday I have the day to myself before I fly out around 6 as they will be at work so I will have lunch somewhere (current plan is pre-fixe at August). That leaves finding a place for dinner Friday night that will suit us both, balancing their kid-friendly/budget requirements and my desire to have excellent food and a good cocktail/glass of wine or two. Does such a place exist? Is there any chance Luke could fit this bill? They are probably pricier than what my friends would like, but they have the cheaper Express menu option, or some less expensive selections. But, I don't know that a child would be welcome.

I could also consider skipping August lunch Monday (I have had dinner their before) and doing a fine dining sort of thing elsewhere so I don't feel bad about Friday night. Coquette seems right up my alley and they do serve lunch, including a prix fixe option...

ETA: I have also never eaten at any of Emiril's restaurants.

[Sundae in the Park]

About to book a flight to New Orleans for early/mid-May! Having trouble deciding whether to give myself an extra night there so help me decide by answering this question.

Staying with friends who have a 1(ish) year old. Saturday the hubby will babysit so we can go out to a nice meal (almost definitely Cochon as I love that place and miss it on my last trip). Sunday we will eat in or do something very casual like Company Burger. Monday I have the day to myself before I fly out around 6 as they will be at work so I will have lunch somewhere (current plan is pre-fixe at August). That leaves finding a place for dinner Friday night that will suit us both, balancing their kid-friendly/budget requirements and my desire to have excellent food and a good cocktail/glass of wine or two. Does such a place exist? Is there any chance Luke could fit this bill? They are probably pricier than what my friends would like, but they have the cheaper Express menu option, or some less expensive selections. But, I don't know that a child would be welcome.

I could also consider skipping August lunch Monday (I have had dinner their before) and doing a fine dining sort of thing elsewhere so I don't feel bad about Friday night. Coquette seems right up my alley and they do serve lunch, including a prix fixe option...

ETA: I have also never eaten at any of Emiril's restaurants.

Go longer and eat more!! Easy Luke is a hotel restaurant, after all, so is more welcoming to children and families than most nicer restaurants. I do remember seeing at least one family with young children while we were there (7-8ish, a Friday night), so you should be OK there with your friends. Going early, of course is always an option, and Luke opens for dinner at 4. Also, the bartender there mentioned that the happy hour at Domenica is a steal, lasting from 3-6 every day. A quick check of the website show that some pizzas, wine, cocktails, and beer are half price during that time. I don't know if you want to eat Italian while in NO, but is would be a nicer, but lower-priced option. Happy hour menus at other spots might be something worth checking out. Don't forget, Butcher does have beer and wine!

[Choirgirl21]

Thanks for the feedback! I ended up needing to make a quick decision and booked the flight that lands around 8:30 on Friday so it's kid-friendly dinner after I land (no option for happy hour as a result) and second nice dinner childless Saturday. Plus nice lunch on Monday.

My tastes tend toward rustic, locally sourced, meat centric menus (hence my love of Cochon). I'm also paleo and while I'll make a ton of exceptions on this trip I'm sure, I'm more inclined to eat at places where the dishes are more meat and veg and less to no starch so thinking the italian option isn't ideal for me. Good to know Luke might be an option though.

I'm really torn now. Based on the menu and the great reviews above I think I would love Coquette. I may have to skip August and have lunch there on Monday.

[Joe H]

In the early '90's my wife and I sat on the other side of a counter from Emeril (before he ever appeared on the TV Food Network) and had dinner. We came back twice more that week and thought, at the time, Emeril's was the best restaurant in America. A couple of years later we returned for three more meals which only confirmed our first opinion. The real difference between the visits was how far in advance we had to make reservations.

I've probably had well over a hundred meals in New Orleans over the years including a year and a half ago when we had two dinners at August and one at Cochon. I should mention there is a night and day difference between sitting in the two dining rooms: we MUCH preferred August. I must also mention that I wear a Cochon baseball cap almost everywhere on a sunny day (I have "thinning" hair.)

I believe DINNER at August to be the equal of anywhere in America. It is appropriately expensive and requires a reservation at least a week or two in advance. It is also ONE OF THE FIVE FINALISTS FOR THE NATIONAL JAMES BEARD AWARD FOR OUTSTANDING RESTAURANT. http://www.jamesbeard.org/sites/default/files/static/additional/2013-jbf-nominees.pdf

Choirgirl21 above you said that you had dinner at August before and could skip it on a return visit. Are you serious?

For me August is what Emeril's was-when he was on the other side of the counter-in the early '90's.

Note: four of the five "current" nominees for Beard Awards for the South are from New Orleans.

[Joe H]

In October four of us shared 15+ courses at Cochon, the next night 10+ at August which, yes, is an entirely different restaurant. Still, I believe that August is one of the best restaurants in the U. S. today. You should go. If you do include the gnocchi with crabmeat and truffles.

The one restaurant that we didn't try-and I wish we had-is Stella.

Seventeen months later I stand by the gnocchi with crabmeat and truffles. I found this on the internet and the author claims it was "the best thing I ever ate." http://www.mommymusings.com/the-best-thing-i-ever-ate-chef-john-beshs-gnocchi-with-jumbo-lump-crab-meat-and-truffle/ The recipe follows.

Sorry to be so passionate but this was a Great dish.

[frogprince]

The bar at Herbsaint would be a lovely spot to lunch solo.

You could definitely do worse than grabbing a sandwich or two to go from Cochon butcher on your way out of town

[Choirgirl21]

Well crap, I should have booked that extra day. Friends just returned from New Orleans and reported really liking their meal at Root. The menu looks amazing, has anyone been? I am starting to think Cochon may get the boot yet again and I'll have to settle for a sandwich from Butcher for the road.

Also just checked out Pesce. Like the idea of possibly hitting that for lunch on Saturday if it can be worked in.

Coquette, Herbsaint and Cochon (in that order) - only had three dinners. Herbsaint was it for me, but my wife pointed out subtle differences and I agree with her. More on this soon.

I would really love to hear more about this since I'm having such a hard time choosing.

[Pool Boy]

Have not loaded up my photos from that trip yet, but will do so in the next week or so.

Cochon was very, very good. I felt a smidge rushed to get out the door, by the staff, though - which I did not appreciate. The food is wonderful. And, it gets loud in there. But the food was great. It just feels really trendy and of the moment, even if it is backed up by great food. It is as if everyone wants to be there....NOW. If you like food with a super energetic room, this is your place. If you want to linger and relax, move along.

Herbsaint was much better than Cochon from my perspective. Not as noisy, never felt rushed (quite the opposite) and even better food. really excellent - better service in general as well. I was here back in 2004 I think, and it was just as good as I remembered it. Better actually. It's a warm, inviting room with great food. Nice little bar, too.

Coquette. Ahhhhh. More laid back and casual and wonderful service. Really excellent food and elevated without being fussy. Nice clean flavors. Nice bar, too. Feels like a neighborhood joint, but it is so much more. The room is less 'warm' but neighborhood joint inviting.

Honestly it is splitting hairs between Coquette and Herbsaint - both are excellent. I'd hit up Cochon in the future at a less busy time.