eatWashington

I'm totally tickled pink suddenly to see eatWashington up there as a topic! I am still in DC, but on a fluctuating basis. My mother, who lives in the south of England, has developed dementia. Which means she's having a whale of a time flirting with every man of any age she sees, saying whatever she feels like regardless of consequence. She's as happy as a lamb. But I've had massively to step up my visits over to her from DC. She still lives at home but does stuff like giving away her pictures, jewelery, knick-knacks, to strangers who admire her garden, sending checks off to cover her Direct Debit payments. The utilities companies owe her so much credit she could buy several world cruises...

So I decided to put eatWashington on hold as I wasn't keeping up to date enough with openings and closings of markets, restaurants, chef moves, etc. But I'm such a computer idiot I thought all I needed to do was stop paying my server. Which I did, not realizing that this would mean the site would disappear into the ether. Which it has, all 1000+ articles, all listings, all information. Forever, as far as I know. Which is devastating, as all I wanted was to give myself a breather while sorting out my mom. If anyone knows how to retrieve it, let me know, at watson.julia@gmail.com.

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[Can someone write Julia and tell her how to recover her site?]

Maybe he was running low; I've bought them there before. Though, usually if I'm going to go out to Ray's, I upgrade to the cowboy which, with all do respect for the hangar, is significantly better cut.

Is hangar steak Halal?

Not unless you buy it from a Halal Butcher.

Who's this Michael? Aside from Wagshal's, Let's Meat on the Avenue, The Butcher's Block, Easter Market and The Organic Butcher, are there any other real butchers around?

Maybe he was running low; I've bought them there before. Though, usually if I'm going to go out to Ray's, I upgrade to the cowboy which, with all do respect for the hangar, is significantly better cut.

Is hangar steak Halal?

In both Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking and Marcella Cucina, Marcella's egg pasta instructions specify two large eggs to one cup of flour. Eggs vary in size, even within the "large" grade, and all dough-making can be affected by the ambient atmosphere of your kitchen. I usually find I use a little more flour for two eggs than a cup, but the amount is really a guideline. You incorporate flour into the egg until you've added enough. At any rate, and I mean no offense, if you made pasta dough with 00 flour and eggs and it came out like cement, you did something wrong. And of course, obviously, that has nothing to do with whether you use a rolling pin or a machine. I've rolled out a good bit of pasta with a pin, and a good bit with a machine, and I must say that the machine produces a consistently better result, in less time, and with a great deal less effort. Considering how little they cost, you should probably get one.

Marcella must have had a revisionary moment. The Classic Italian Cookbook states 4 1/2 ounces of flour to each egg but not to exceed that. I suspect my problem lies right there with that apparent excess. You're right! I really did do something wrong. Cement is inedible even when you've used cooking ingredients to make it.

Rolling out thin pasta by hand is a PITA and therefore have not done it in a long time. Not to mention that using a machine is much quicker and produces a more consistent product.

I have used 00 flour many times and it produces a dough that is much softer than using regular AP flour so I am not sure why you got cement versus using the Giant flour.

My ratio to start making pasta dough is ~1/2 cup (2.5 oz.) of flour to 1 egg and then adding more flour to get to the proper consistency. I have no idea about exact measurements because I just eyeball it, but it works every time. I use just eggs, salt, and flour (AP, 00, or KA Italian Style depending on what I pull out of the pantry).

Italian cooks may have managed for without them for centuries, but I doubt many (any) are going the rustic route any more. Personally I think a $25-30 pasta machine (Amazon.com has them) is well worth the minimal investment.

If I have time this weekend I will work on hand rolling a batch and report back on my success or failure.

Your reaction has been eye-opening. Not only about my parsimony (I didn't realize pasta machines were quite as cheap as $25...) but about Marcella's balance. She dictates 4 1/2 ounces of flour per egg as against your almost half that amount. Anyway, I've now followed your instructions. And struck gold. I've just made 48 shredded-roast pork-and-tomato ragout-stuffed ravioli (left-over food, as you'll have guessed), listening to All Things Considered and the pasta has been like ironing silk! Came out thin as Kleenex under the rolling pin and I don't feel like I've had a gym work out (though perhaps I shouldn't celebrate that!). Thank you. Julia

I've tried Marcella Hazan's recipe for hand-made pasta with 00 flour and with regular Giant flour. The 00 produced cement, the Giant was a little more malleable. She calls for 4 1/2 ounces of flour to each egg. I could get a bit more movement out of the mass when I reduced the flour by almost one ounce, adding it in when the paste stuck to the counter. I don't want to buy a pasta machine - Italian cooks have managed without them for centuries. Does anyone have a successful method for making a really thin sheet? It worked better with a splash of milk. But that wasn't what Marcella advocated... Julia

At the Kielbasa Factory, a Polish grocery store in Rockville, where you can also get Jamie Stachowski's charcuterie!

It's great news to learn there's a place to get Jamie Stachowski's brilliant charcuterie! When he owned Restaurant K, he was one of the best chef interviews I ever did! I didn't have to open my mouth the whole hour! The anecdotes just poured out of him. Glad that he and Krystyna Ahrens of the KF have linked. (Slap me if I shouldn't direct you here, but she's a pretty interesting person too - http://www.eatwashington.com/article/the_kielbasa_factory Julia

I could not remember the name to save my life, I found an address for them at 1065 W Broad St in Falls Church. I may have to check to see if it is really there.

I thought Indian Spice and Appliances was now at 1065 W. Broad St., Falls Church, 703 532 1777...Julia

Can anyone recommend any Indian grocery stores within the Rockville/Gaithersburg area? I'm looking for some specific things: white poppy seeds, ajwain seeds, mango powder, powdered tamarind, black cumin seeds... Thanks.

It's easier, I think, to find India groceries in Virginia. But here's some I like in Maryland:

Dana Bazaar, 1701 Rockville Pike, 301 231 7546, and 12829 Wisteria Drive, Germantown, sells fresh fruit and vegetables, and staple groceries from India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. Spice Lanka in Derwood is Sri Lankan and run by a really helpful owner. He's got unusual spices at reasonable prices. http://www.eatwashington.com/article/spice...vorite_markets/

There's a fairly involved thread on eGullet's Spirits & Cocktails forum about Campari's transition from carmine/cochineal to artificial color - according to the vast majority of people who've tried both, the manufacturer appears to have sacrificed taste in favor of cost savings or caving to the vegetarian lobby. Carmine color was not and is not banned.

As far as Angostura, the label says "Colorant Caramel E150a" - that's standard burnt sugar/corn syrup caramel color, no bugs.

Yes, I read the Campari tale. Thanks for the Angostura Bitters explanation. I'm a little sad it's not made of beetles. Also because it means I pay for dinner...Perhaps I should insist we go to Oyamel for the cricket tacos...

I have a dinner staked on whether or not Angostura Bitters contains beetles. I know there are a number of herbs in there, but is the squashed cochineal beetle one of the ingredients? It is - or perhaps was (I don't know if it's now banned) - in Campari.

I work for FOH

but can I slurp PHO in Bethesda (without driving to Rockville?)

No, in my opinion. The few places that do serve it - there's a small Vietnamese restaurant on Del Ray Ave and another on Cordell - tone it down for Westerners. When you ask for herbs and Sriracha they look at you as if you were nuts. Pho without Sriracha? Case rests...The other dreadful place that does this is that Vietnamese place (called Nam, I think) opposite the Uptown Cinema on Conn Ave NW which claims to serve Pho, though only at lunch. For which we should be grateful.

I dropped in yesterday after a trip to Cheesetique for the picnic. Interesting little shop. I was curious about the top sirloin steaks he had and he filled me in on how it's called a rump steak elsewhere (the UK, etc.) and makes for some great grilling. This cut usually looks horrible in the supermarket so I've shied away, but it looked tempting here. I'd like to try the amish sausage too.

So that's what a top sirloin steak means! Who knew! As a Brit, certainly not me. I've been wondering how to ask for a rump steak - lo! these past 15 years I've lived here! Thank you! BTW, does anyone know any good butchers in NW? The wonderful Pam Ginsberg used to get you anything at Brookville Market on Conn Ave, from rattlesnake - if you had a mind for it - to a whole pig which I once dragged home in a supermarket trolley. Did wonders for sidewalk crowd control. But she moved to Wagshal's in Spring Valley and you have to mortgage your home to shop there. Julia, eatWashington

Anyone tried the newly opened Co Co. Sala on F St NW? A huge amount of financing has gone into this space - a bar from Italy, mosaics, gas fired flames on the room dividers. Desserts and chocolates are beautiful. Of the 5 different dessert tasting menus we tried, the Italian Voyage is the least interesting. In each we were more excited by the savory elements - in the Aztec Experience an excellent enchilada with guava sauce which was more like a cube of membrillo. The chef is tackling everything from entrees like mac 'n cheese three ways to the desserts and chocolates. Hope he doesn't wear out...

No. Doubt it's a matter of terroir or that blessed plot, that earth, that realm vs. this.

Cf. what's been written in the W Post and said in topic on Mid Spring in this forum, though I have to say that I've consumed at least 4-5 bundles of purple asparagus, and fat, thin and in-between green asparagus w purple tips over the course of this year's season, coming from PA, VA & MD. All very flavorful, interacting with all relevant bodily systems in usual fashion. Course I've been fixated on roasting and sautéing my stalks in olive oil and the fat of salt-cured pork which intensifies what might otherwise prove subtle especially if hay fever's involved.

I was just going to serve a clarified butter and lemon juice sauce. But discovered I'd run out of lemons. So I squeezed (into cooled butter so it didn't spit itself into oblivion) orange juice instead. Delicious! Like a Sauce Maltaise without the fuss...

This morning, one of my two co-managers sent out a great report of this past Sunday's market including a link to a blog kept by Chef Vinod of Indique. His demonstration was truly one of our best, as Reg noted, in terms of presentation since a gorgeous array of spices brightened up an overcast, drizzly day.

We scurried around to add cilantro, greenhouse tomatoes and all sorts of onions to the display. Next time we'll have to remember yogurt. Perhaps eggplant in all sorts of colors, patterns and shapes...

It's not always easy to get food to the farmers and all their hard-working assistants, but another thing that I was grateful for was the fact that two of the three dishes were vegan (gotta feed Heinz!) and the third, bhelpuri (my absolute favorite), vegetarian. Word of the street snack from Mumbai got out quickly and we were rushed.

Given the cult of local food, it's a pleasure to forgo fanaticism and be reminded of our debt to the rest of the world by stirring fragrant spices into something we pick up at the market.

Here's the link to the blog with pictures: Entry on May 19, 2008.

N.B. Donrockwell is linked on the left-hand margin.

Spent a fortune on produce this weekend at Dupont Circle Farmers Market. The strawberries were wonderful. I made Eton Mess (you make meringues, break them into large chunks then fold them into a cloud of whipped cream along with chunks of strawberries and a swirl of strawberry puree...). But the big disappointment was the asparagus. Much money but not much flavor. Didn't compare with anything freshly picked in France or England. Also, it didn't leave that amazing stench when you pee. Is somebody tinkering with asparagus to remove that smell and along with it removing the flavor?

Thanks. Are there any pay garages around?

I'm not sure I should give out my secret: but here goes. For the Dupont Farmers Market - or any Dupont Circle activity - park on Decatur Place, a one-way street approached from Mass Ave. It's a 5-7 min walk down Conn. Ave. eatwashington.com.

Somewhat similar request here.

I've found good stuff, from ranges (though didn't buy one of those...) through to smaller appliances, metal mixing bowls, massive whisks and all the kind of stuff that makes you think, if I just had one of those I'd turn into Thomas Keller, at Jefferson Davis Highway, on the right before you get to the Target. George's, 415 E Raymond Ave, Alexandria, (703) 836-1800. eatWashington.com

I reckon the best test for bought ice cream is either the vanilla or the chocolate. But there's a real proper genuine pistachio which is phenomenal at Dolcezza on Wisconsin Ave NW around Q St (the precise address, along with other good ice cream parlors is on eatWashington). The pistachio isn't bright green but a sort of grungy decorator brown - which is how it should be. But the other flavors are just as good, too. In season, their strawberry ice cream just tastes like crushed fruit and cream.

York Tropical ice cream shop does some really weird and wonderful flavors, like Grape Nut, and Guinness. But there's something a bit fatty, rather than creamy, about the in-the-mouth feel for me.

Julia (of eatWashington)

After reading the Saveur Beauty of Butter issue: Land o’ Lakes ain’t going to cut it anymore. It’s clear: butter can be used as either food (cultured) or ingredient (uncultured). Is it worth it – economically and taste-wise –to have on hand two different types of butters? Ninety percent of my current butter usage is as a cooking medium, i.e., sautéing; 10 percent as condiment. However, during the spring and summer months, butter is used more as seasonal seasoning.

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At my first DR.com picnic there was a butter tasting. Were there any clear winners? From up thread: Plugra, Vermont Butter & Cheese and Trader Joe’s are brand favorites. Any others?

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Have you ever tried making your own? It's fun while you read the Food Section, or something. Fill a clean glass jar with heavy cream, put the lid on tight, jiggle it about until it begins to get thick. It will separate into a lump (pretty small!) banging about in a cloudy liquid.

Julia, of eatWashington

MOM in Jessup stocks some D'Artagnan products and will special order stuff for you with advanced notice.

Okay, this is blowing my own trumpet, but if you want to know where find any food stuffs - familiar, unfamiliar, weird, and just wonderful (including D'Artagnan products) - for cooking and eating in the greater Washington area, log on to my web site http://www.eatWashington.com. It's also got DC chef profiles and recipes.

I'm a Brit. What you call Biscuits, I call Scones (pronounced 'sk-on'). They shouldn't be those lumps of raisin-studded dough you could break a window with. A proper English scone should be light and fluffy, eaten warm from the oven, preferably with real clotted cream (there's a recipe to make your own on eatWashington) and home-made raspberry jam. But pretty wonderful with butter and jam. You won't recognize them.

8 ounces self-raising flour, plus more for dusting

1 1/2 ounces butter, soft

1/4 pint milk

1 1/2 teaspoon sugar

Pinch of salt

Preheat the oven to 425F.

In a mixing bowl quickly rub the softened butter into the flour using only your fingertips. With the blade of a knife, stir in the sugar and salt, then little by little, while continuing to stir, slowly add the milk.

When it's all absorbed bring the dough quickly together with your hands and put it on a floured surface.

Roll it out to 1 inch thick, then punch out circles with a white wine glass or a 2 inch cookie cutter. Give them a tap to get them out and onto a greased baking sheet. If you twist the cutter, they'll stretch out of shape.

Bake for 12-15 minutes until golden. Cool them on a wire rack only until tepid enough to handle, then eat at once.

Happy high tea!

eatwashington

i know that we all think of ourselves as an affable and approachable lot, however, i have heard from more than a few people that one's first post can be a little intimidating to write. i think that it would come easier after an introduction.

since i have a few friends who have recently joined the board, i have been thinking about this a bit recently. therefore, i am nominating this thread as the place to say hello. all of you lurkers, members without a post, etc, feel free to drop a line or two here. say hello. i swear it gets easier after your first one.

still not sure? ok, i'll start...

good day to everyone. i am new to the board. i am danny, i manage a little italian restaurant in foggy bottom. i found this board after a friend mentioned it to me, and am very happy to be here. i hope to be an active part of this community.

thanks, don and everyone else for letting me play in your sandbox.