Pjsrock

I went to the new Matchbox last night, and am happy to report an excellent opening, with the burgers and pizza better than what I've had at the Chinatown location for at least a couple years.

The Miniburgers ($8 for 3) are almost as good as they were under Greg Glufling. Ordered medium-rare, they came out distressingly well-done looking, but one bite was all it took to realize that they were done under high-heat, and the middle was a near-perfect medium-rare+. The meat was juicy and flavorful, and the onion straws were better than they've ever been, even after they got (inevitably) cold - Matchbox seems to have gotten the formula down, as these things retained their interest long after reaching room-temperature. My only qualm is the brioche bun, which was a bit dry - it's going to be tricky for Matchbox to pull these off, but a little brioche is exactly what you want soaking up these juicy burgers. They could be a little less tall (the height doesn't help the upper dryness); yet when you mash them down, you squeeze the juices from the miniburgers - this is a delicate balancing act bordering on being a Catch 22.

I'm pleased to alert my chef friend that a Matchbox Meat ($14 for a small) was as good as any pizza I've ever had from Matchbox, and that's saying something. Although I've insisted that the Chinatown pizza has been on the decline for awhile now, this reminded me of why I used to love this pizza so much. The pepperoni on this pie is as good as it is at 2 Amys, and everything is in balance, right down to the beautifully charred crust. I just now finished two pieces for lunch (yes, thrown into the microwave for 30 seconds), and it was still fantastic. A great pizza from Matchbox!

Between the above two items, and the Ma Po Tofu I had the night before at Great Wall, any notion of salt deficiency was long, long out the window. With that in mind, the Crispy Seared Salmon ($20) seemed forced into the meal, and somewhat on the bacony-macho end of the spectrum. Our server asked how we wanted the salmon, and it arrived medium-rare just as we ordered it. The top level had a good sear, and it was a fairly generous portion of fish. It came resting on a large mound of Tillamook cheddar grits, surrounded by three attractive bundles of bacon-wrapped haricots verts, the bottom of the plate having the barest hint of tabasco herb butter. Had I been eating normally (sushi the night before, a chopped salad for an appetizer), I would have appreciated this moderately hearty preparation much more than I did.

Bell's Two-Hearted Ale on draft is $6 a pint. The atmosphere looks great - clean as a whistle, but also comfortable and lived-in, like it's been in full swing for years. This meal makes me remember why I used to find myself at Matchbox's bar on such a regular basis. This is an impressive opening.

Cheers,

Rocks.

P.S. I can't be ALL positive: Dyson Airblade = Nasty, Ping-Pong Ball Waiting System = Lame.

Hi, Don,

Thanks for your post on our new location, and thanks to everyone who summoned up the courage to dine with us right out of the blocks!

For the most part we have had a pleasant response to the food, drinks and space, but by far the most detailed positive feedback we have heard is on the Dyson Airblade, specifically in terms of its energy efficiency, less paper usage and cleaner bathrooms. It seems to have struck a cord with folks--quite a bit more than we could have imagined. A guest quipped the other day that we should print t-shirts with matchbox capitol hill on the front and a photo of the Airblade on the back.....

We are also in the process of updating our system of seating folks, as this obviously needs to change due to the level of interest in the restaurant.

Thanks to everyone for their patience with us, and we are happy to have closed out our first full week of operations without too many crises!

Take care,

P

Partner

Sorry, I forgot to mention-- we are now serving brunch on Saturdays as well as Sundays--from 11am until 3pm

We are SO excited for this on the Hill. Welcome! Will you guys do takeout?

Hi!

Re. takeout, we do indeed have at Capitol Hill takeout and are in the process of streamlining this to make it more efficient for all of our loyal customers.

Thanks for your patience!

A non-food question for Christopher: I'd swear that in the past I've noticed a Matchbox box truck in the paddock during SCCA events at Summit Point...which of you Matchbox folks race?

Hey, that is matchbox partner Mark Neal, who spends his minimal off hours racing his Mazda Miata...