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Robert Parker's David Schildknecht Raves About Granite Heights & RDV


Joe H

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The actual quote:

"A few more of the most improbable vinous trios in my recent experience

No need to be humble
Here are three variations on Bordelais themes about which you might not have heard and I could scarcely believe when I ran into them.

Luke and Toni Kilyk – he a patent attorney; she a physician – named the inaugural release of their Granite Heights estate's grand vin 2010 Humility. When I tasted it from barrel, I was shocked that a wine of such promise – very much fulfilled in bottle – could come from young vines and inexperienced part-time growers, not to mention from Warrenton, Virginia. But when you start talking with Toni and Luke about what they're doing, their meticulousness and determination are evident; and they’re being advised by renowned ampelographer-turned-viticulturalist Lucie Morton. ("Barbelo" – a blend of Merlot and Barbera representing Granite Heights' only other bottling – is as original as it is delicious, 'though at 15.8% alcohol even headier than Humility.)

Granite Heights' "Humility" didn't, however, come totally out of the blue. Several folks who could afford to re-invent themselves as vintners and chase what others considered a Quixotic dream have lately been demonstrating that Virginian granite can bring forth serious Bordeaux-styled reds, but none more ambitiously or convincingly than Dutch-born Rutger de Vink of Delaplane, who understudied with Kees Van Leeuwen at Cheval Blanc and now collaborates with renowned oenologue Eric Boissenot. The RdV 2010 Rendezvous (even more than its two predecessors) is a revelation in harmonious and polished concentration. (And could you ever have some fun with brown-bagged RdV bottles!)"

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