baczkowski

What a pleasant surprise. Bedford Springs was beautiful. The decorations were a classy synthesis of historical detail and carpentry , Restoration Hardware style fixtures, and Martha Stewart paint colors. Having just opened in September of 2007, this place still shines from $120 million of historic preservaton and modernization. The original draws of this 200+ year old resort, the spa and mineral spring fed pools, were delightful as well. While we came here to just get away and let my wife get pampered (though I scraped a few coins from the couch cushions to share in the indulgence), we weren't holding our breaths about the food. Again, what a pleasant surprise. The resort has four places to eat: a snack shop; a tavern; the Continental Room serving the likes of crab cakes, steaks, and a rotisserie; and 1796, which is a prix fixe dining room (2 courses + dessert for $68 or 3 courses + dessert for $80). We had dinner at 1796 and had an excellent meal. It wasn't even an issue of the kitchen exceeding low expectations. Our meals were very strong, from the homemade bread basket filled with four types of breads to our tasty and nontraditional salads to a bite of house cured duck prosciutto with melon to my excellent slow-cooked veal "breast" (I've never seen cow or veal "breast" before, but maybe that's my limited experience) to our beautiful and delicious desserts. The chef came from the Greenbriar and brought solid technique and presentation. No dish was knock-your-socks-off inventive, but the menu included several options with a touch of personality beyond your boring American fair. Not cheap, but a nice experience considering your next best Bedford option is Hoss's.

We ate breakfast in the Continental Room and opted for the Sunday brunch buffet. I hate brunch buffets. But for $14 each, we could choose from the applewood smoked bacon, buttery grits, herbed scrambled eggs, and fried potatoes while also being able to ask the chef to prepare an omelet or anything else off the regular menu for no extra charge. Considering that the omellette alone was $15 as a stand alone meal, the buffett was a no brainer. I asked the chef to prepare me an order of grand marnier french toast ($12 on the regular menu) and he delivered four piping hot slices to my table while I was shoveling grits in my mouth. The result was that I am now committed to always putting grand marnier in my french toast. So, all in all, a great weekend get away that was actually enhanced by far better than average food. Most importantly, though, this place is beautiful and relaxing. Just remember, though, there is frickin' NOTHING in Bedford! That is unless you're enticed by Gravity Hill!

Pax,

Brian

P.S. Room rates are about $100 cheaper per night now that it's off season. Some friends have told me that they've heard of this place b/c of the golf course (it's supposedly one of the oldest in the country), but it'll take a few months of thawing for that option to present itself (and the rates to climb).

Thought folks may be interested in this article about the Charlie Palmer executive chef opening his own place in Frederick named Volt. I'll be impressed to see how he makes this a restaurant. It's a spectacular pld, gothic building that's been chopped up into dentist offices for years. Several years ago I used lived in an apartment two buildings down (there's a very neat column of bay windows on the side that I always thought would be great for my apartment). Not sure where people will park plus few places have proven successful that far up Market Street. It's amazing how a half block can change a restaurant's success. I'll definitely be rooting for them, though.

Pax,

Brian

Volt.pdf

After one stop that included only one appetizer and one entree, I hysterically proclaim this to be a great restaurant. Tonight I had the best samosa I've ever had in my life. I don't know if it was the crispy dough or the spicy potato filling that I preferred, but together I thought they were trancendant. Though I got my order as takeout, the samosas didn't make it home before I devoured them in the car, and I think eating them soon after they've emerged from the fryer is the best approach to experiencing the almost flaky crust.

I also got the lamb dopiaza with a rich and medium spiced curry that blended so well with the tons of onions and large chunks of lamb. Tshe takeout order was huge (and probably 4000 calories, not including the 1000+ calories of rice that came with it) and could easily provide leftovers even after two large servings.

More people need to check this place out b/c if there are other dishes on the menu as good as these, my gut's going to get a lot bigger when I visit my in-laws.

Pax,

Brian

P.S. On a cold, snowy Wednesday night this place (though not large) was almost entirely full and while serving four additional take-out orders during my 10 minute wait just before 8 o'clock. The neighborhood seems to enjoy it.

I have to say Balducci's sells probably the best potato chips I've had from a bag: Tyrell's. I've tried both the sweet red pepper and the sea salt & pepper varieties and loved both. Like all things at Balducci's, though, they're expensive--over $4 for a little more than 5 oz. But they're damn good for my tastes.

Pax

Brian

The "Smoky" was way overtopped and floppily underbaked. The clam pie is awesome, if you don't mind a surfeit of thyme. Caesar salad slightly overdressed and more than slightly boring.

I think inconsistency has to be this place's achilles heel b/c my wife an I went last night and both of our pizzas were fantastic. That makes three times that I've been: First experience was eye-opening and inspring of heresy (i.e. "could this actually be better than 2 Amy's?"); second was very disappointing with jaw-aching chewiness and boring flavors on my Smoky; and last night's pies again conjured heresy. When this place is on, it's an ethereal experience. When it's not, you leave feeling as though you were kicked in the gonads.

Pax,

Brian

P.S. My wife also got the caesar salad and thought it was overdressed, over-"garlic-ed", and under-"accompanied" (to invent my second phrase).

From what I've seen, Bedford Springs Resort looks beautiful, though it is in Bedford, PA. Other than a connection to the Bud Shuster Highway, what else is there to do? Has anyone been? My wife wanted to go away to a bed and breakfast type place (though I know she really means "Get me a damn massage!") for her birthday in a few weeks and this looks like the nicest place that also happens to be fairly easy to drive to for a weekend. There's a dinner and breakfast option at Bedford Springs and I was wondering if that would be worth it, too. I'd love to learn from your experiences.

Pax,
Brian

P.S. Before it's announcement to fold several months ago, Inn at Easton would have been in the running. If you have other suggestions, feel free to PM me.

We used to go to the cafe regularly -- realizing now that I haven't been in quite some time, I think it may be because of the smallest wine pour I think I ever had. I didn't raise it when it happened, as usually things even out. But subconsciously maybe it has been what has kept us away. So measuring may be a good idea. And now that I realize what may have been keeping me away, I need to get back there for gnocchi, fry plates, and the other great inventive dishes that come out of the kitchen.

And let me add that the chatham cod entree item (from the back room menu) is definitely worth a return trip itself.

Pax,

Brian

Saturday we met some friends from Frederick at Charleston and had a great dinner. I can see how Charleston would be considered a great restaurant instead of merely "a great restaurant for Baltimore."

One thing I really appreciated was the fact that different diners can opt for different numbers of courses, even through our table chose to be consistent. One warning I would offer is that our waitress told us that each course is "small, about half the size of a normal entree", but these platings are probably twice the size of an average tapas. I literally unbuckled my belt on the car ride home after "four" (all meals also include an amuse and a complimentary dessert) courses.

Several items on the menu have stayed the same as noted in the above reviews from two years ago, but many items are new. The online menu is pretty comparable to what we were presented. A major difference, though, is that "The Season" menu featured black (I think) truffles in all six dishes. None of us opted for the truffle dishes, but of the dishes that I had, the following I would describe as "excellent" (starting with my favorite to "least" favorite): shrimp and grits, fried oysters, lobster bisque, grilled lamb rack chop, and pan roasted rockfish; those that were merely "very good" were the grilled tenderloin and a salmon tartare with creme fraiche. Service also was strong. There was one minor slip where the waitress thought my wife was "sitting out" a course when she had actually ordered the same number as the rest of us; however, she promply corrected the error and had her shrimp and grits in front of her well before the rest were done eating. Not that she need to, but she ingratiated herself to me when I told her that I was torn between the chocolate torte and the pine nut cake and she told me, "I'll bring both. No one should be forced to choose between desserts."

Charleston is well worth the trip up 95.

I've passed this place several times and have never been tempted by it, but this month's Bethesda Magazine has an interview with Michel Richard and he names it one of his favorite restaurants in Bethesda (but so is Cafe Deluxe, though). Then, when I googled the restaurant, it comes up as a Roberto Donna restaurant (*). Is this true? [Can this board avoid implosion with the mention of his name?] It's mentioned in the Dining in Bethesda , but I'm surprised that a Donna restaurant (if it still is one) wouldn't have more interest on this board.

Last night was my fourth or fifth time to Passage and each time I get a greater appreciation of this place as a fine restaurant with class. I wanted to try some different things and couldn't make up my mind by dish or by region (if you've not been, the menu is divided into four different regions of India), so I opted for the chicken and lamb sampler, which, for $24, includes 3 different small bites of their appetizers; for the main course, small servings of 1 chicken entree, 1 lamb entree, a side of spinach and corn, a side of their amazing lentils, saffron rice, small salad, and a yogurt dish; and finished by bowl of rice pudding. The main course presentation was impressive: An elegant silver platter that incorporated a plate and an area at the top for small silver bowls/cups plus four silver spoons. Everything was complex and delicious with my only complaint being a consistent one: I've never had a lamb dish that's as tender as I expect a braised meat to be. I have to say, though, that last night's chunks of lamb were the tastiest I've had there even if they weren't as tender as I would like/expect. Regardless, I'm a convert. This place is really good.

Pax,

Brian

Not a restaurant that I miss, but rather the occasional yard of beer. Anyone know of a place around here where these are still in existence?

Doesn't Rock Bottom have them? But I think they have nozzles at the bottom of the tube instead of the fluted Frat party version from my bleary-eyed college days. Brewer's Alley in Frederick has the nozzled yards, too.

Pax,

Brian

They gave us a cookie plate at the end. I think we got two caramels, two candies, and 4 cookies of some sort. The caramels were really really good and soft and had a strong vanilla flavour. I can't remember much about the cookies and I don't think one was mushroom shaped, but the two pieces of chocolate they gave us were extremely bitter. I like bitter chocolate, but if you don't, beware.

Add me to the list of people who loves the dark bread, HATES the cold butter, wishes that the cookie plates came with caramelSSSSSSSS as the menu says, and showed up last night to find it closed. But I still love this place.

Pax,

Brian

Yes, you'll lose some of the tables in front, but if they aren't filled, then what difference does it make? Plus, you can come up with a simpler, less-expensive bar menu for solo diners. A bar can subsidize the fine-dining aspect of a restaurant such as this, but right now it isn't happening, and because of this, it's not possible to simply "bop into David Craig" for a quick bite, or for an inexpensive night out. I want to love this place, but right now I just can't, and I hope it changes before it's too late.

Cheers,

Rocks.

As a person who lives and works in Bethesda, I'd be the first to support this type of place. Again, I've had my best executed meals in Bethesda here, but I've been only twice largely b/c of price (many of the appetizer portions are $15-$16, IIRC). A cheaper bar-friendly approach would make me reconsider my weekly Palena trips, and I think there are others around Bethesda who'd jump aboard, too.

Pax,

Brian

What night and time did you go? I've had it off my regular rotation for a while because I was tired of long waits at common mealtimes, but I'd love to hear that it's not so bad any more...

Well, we went around 6 PM on a Saturday and got a table no problem. I'd say that all the tables were full by 6:30-6:45, but by 7, there were several groups waiting. Our visit wasn't planned. Just happened to be leaving Home Depot and wanted to eat before a later party. Web site doesn't mention if they take reservations.

Pax,

Brian

I had never been to Il Pizzico before and entered with no expectations but my wife said she used to go with her family years ago. Overall, we had a very good meal. The pasta was noticeably homemade and perfectly cooked while the sauces complemented our different pasta choices well (tomato veal sauce over wide noodles for me and a punchy basil tomato sauce over penne for her). We'll easily go back to find out if they are consistently this good.

Pax,

Brian

Once we moved I started looking for "my place"--a place that I could feel comfortable going to once a week and feel a continual satisfaction whenever I leave. A few months ago I picked Palena Cafe. Because of traffic, it's about 10 minutes further than I thought I would drive, but DAMN is it worth it. And I can usually go early enough to not have to worry about the exhaustingly long waits. When ordering, my general approach has been to pick one tried and true (burger or chicken) and one item new. When I'm exploring new items, I'll pick whatever temps me from the cafe menu or the restaurant's first or second courses. This winter, my favorite "find" has been the chestnut soup with sliced octopus, which I hope will stay on through the cold weather season, but last night my wife selected a contender in the pork/bacon flavored minestrone which is somewhat lighter (it's all relative). Every once and a while I've been underwhelmed, and last night the crab leg and polenta dish on the cafe menu was not the richness or flavor-burst I expect from Palena; my squash and wild rice gnocchi also was probably the tamist variation of Ruta's that I've tried. But even though I'm occassionally not blown away, I keep going back because consistently I leave saying, "Everyone should feel this satisfied at least once a week."

Pax,

Brian

Is this what passes for respected, objective food criticism?

Aside from reading as if the article were hastily generated through a Mad-Lib program, Mr. Sietsema bullies a casual Italian chain restaurant that does not advertise seasonality for serving benign asparagus year round? Hollywood handsome chefs and other established starred sweethearts can serve unseasonal produce and proteins unchallenged, however pedestrian eateries designed for the broad and many hungry get a undeserved tisk-tisk, much like the silly “easy on the carbs, please” reproach Red Rocks Pizzeria received. There are also seasons in France and the United States and pretty much every other country above and below the tropics (I looked it up). Il Fornaio boasts “authenticity”...but so does the popularly revered Olive Garden. Neither herald seasonality. The critic should have objected to the Tagliata Chianina item which surely is not Chianina cattle (USDA “choice” at the Vegas outlet).

Approachable establishments are not designed to “attract patrons looking for discernment on a plate” and should not be held to the other half's elite standards.

I understand (but don't fully agree) with your criticisms of Sietsema's criticisms, but do you think he missed in his overall rating of the restaurant? It met my expectations for a chain restaurant (since I haven't been). Or would it have been better to not have reviewed the place at all?

But you are absolutely right in highlighting "hostess with the mostess" as offensively bad writing. That's a gratingly sloppy cliche for even a high school student.

Pax,

Brian

How can you not love those wings??? When Lee and Dave were first talking about opening a burger place, the one thing I said that they had to make sure carried over from Urban BBQ was the wings.

I actually tried them several months ago based on your rec. Sorry, they were just boring to me. I tend to be a Butter + Frank's or Old Bay Guy when it comes to my wings. Again, to each his/her own...

Pax,

Brian

We made it there once over the summer for carry-out and were generally not disappointed. Next time I'd like to dine in, though, as we're a bit of a hoof away from the place. I'd like to eat it as soon as it is ready.

Friday a group of us went before a meeting for the second time in two months mainly because it was such a big hit the first time. I think the burgers and chili dogs (which I had for the first time Friday) are quite good though gut busting. Palena Cafe they're not, but they don't try to be either. Personally I'm not a fan of the soul rolls or wings, but to each his/her own. Overall I think they're very successful at achieving their mission and hitting their target market.

Pax,

Brian

Shabu Shabu. Funny but I can't get excited over 66. But now with juicy buns and Lion's Head its hard not to go to Bob's over a lot of places!!!

If he ever starts making Spicy & Tasty Tofu and Crispy Dried Scezhuan beef I am never go anywhere else!

My wife and I went for Shabu Shabu last Thursday for the first time. What a fascinating experience. We didn't blaze any new trails, but did confirm that Lion's Head is an amazingly rich and flavorful dish and that two people will nearly explode if they eat $30 worth of food. I can't say that my wife is a fan of Shabu Shabu though. It didn't help either that the garage door windows during the winter make you feel as though you're, well, eating in your garage during the winter. I'll definitely go back (alone I guess) but probably explore non-Shabu Shabu items. Or would it make more sense to head across the street to the Noodle House?

Pax,

Brian

Hanger, hanger, hanger. There is no external fat, but it is so richly and intensely flavored that it needs none. Also, with our aging, while still not filet-tender, the hanger is significantly more tender than any you may have enjoyed previously.

Another option is to ask if any "sidekicks" or "between-the-bones" are available, both of which come from the same bone-in rib as the cowboy.

The sidekick is a bone-in rib that weighs less than what we allow for the Cowboy--which typically weighs 30-32 ounces, but must weigh at least 28 ounces to be sold as a Cowboy. Any less and it is a sidekick. The sidekick, then, is typically 25-28 ounces on the bone. Keep in mind that the typical steakhouse charges $35-$45 for their bone-in rib which is advertised as 24-26 ounces. Our 30 ounce Cowboy (which is the same cut as the Cote de Boeuf for two at Les Halles) is $31.95, and the smaller sidekick is discounted to $28.95 for being only somewhat larger than other steakhouse's standard cut.

A between-the-bone is a cut that is rarely available, but is my favorite. It is cut from between two Cowboys when the rib is running exceptionally large and has all the close-to-the-bone extra fatty goodness and meaty bits of a Cowboy. Typically, it will be 16 ounces (the same weight as our rib-eye, but thinner and with less pure meat yield) and would typically cost $23.95 ($19.95 if it is less than 16 ounces but more than 14). It is likely that your server will not know what you are talking about if you ask for this cut, so if I am not in the restaurant, please don't feel put out if your request for it can not be responded to knowledgeably.

Now THAT'S a great tip and explanation. I see a sidekick in my future.

Pax,

Brian

For my birthday, my wife took me to the Tasting Room at Restaurant Eve Friday night and our experience lived up to our lofty expectations. We, thank God, chose to go the 5 course route (which is really 9 courses, I think, with the amuse, etc.) and we picked perfectly for our tastes. To keep life interesting, sometimes my wife and I have contests over who can order better, so here is our head-to-head tasting battle royale to potentially help others in their selecting:

Round 1: Gnudi Fritti with Parsnip Puree and Housemade Merguez Sausage (wife) vs. Sauteed Skate Wing with Tragout of Boudin Noir, Ham Hock, Bone Marrow, and Cipollinis (me)

Victor: Wife

Note: We took full advantage of the ability to move items between courses since we wanted every item on the Ocean course; hence, nothing from "Creation".

Round 2:Nantucket Bay Scallop "Fricasse" with Leeks and Osetra Caviar (wife) vs. Sweet Butter Poached Maine Lobster with Heirloom Carrots, Ginger, and Micro Cilantro (Supplement $5) (me)

Victor: Me (our favorite dish of the night, well worth the upcharge; my wife would argue though that her scallops would trump my other orders, though)

Round 3: Bacon, Egg, and Cheese (wife) vs. Chapel Hill Farm Randall Lineback Rosy Red Veal Tenderloin "Saltimboca A La Romana"

Victor: Wife (she muscled me out on ordering this dish even though it was my birthday! God, I love their pork belly dishes.)

Round 4: Roquefort with Sauternes Gelee and Sugarsnap Cookie (wife) vs. Brie de Meaux with Dried Apricot Jam and Pate Sable (me)

Victor: Wife (I loved the Roquefort but wasn't blown away by the brie or jam accompaniement)

Fifth Course: Apple "Tarte Des Demoiselles Tartin" (wife) vs. Chocolate "Opera Torte" (me)

Victor: Wife (I love chocolate, but the tarte was a decadent knockout punch on the night)

So, yes, my wife kicked my ass. But did I really lose? I got to eat almost all of mine and sometimes half of hers.

To back track a little, we had a late reservation so we also managed to give the Armstrong's even more of our money before dinner by getting drinks at PX. Unique experience that we'd do again in a heart beat. I look forward to the Armstrong's continued growth with the planned bakery and butcher shop that will complement their expanding but benevolent empire.

Pax,

Brian

It's been 15 years since you've had Pina's?!

Why do I get the feeling that Rocks was making another salacious pun?

I haven't been in a few months, so I can't say what's on the menu, but the veal cheeks rock, he does very well with homemade pasta, and his time at Pesce made him brilliant with fresh fish.

My father-in-law took us here about two weeks ago. I got the whole branzino, which was awesome. I also agree that the pastas are quite wonderful. I didn't see the veal cheeks on the menu that night, though. As to the question of frequency of menu changes, I've only been twice but I got the impression that this was a place that changed it's menu more seasonally than weekly or daily. They definitely do have daily specials and sometimes tweak menu items (e.g. they have, if I remember correctly, a grilled peach salad that was modified to feature pears that night instead...something like that). They have a ribeye dish that seems to be a mainstay on the menu but I was discouraged from getting it again (I got it many months earlier) b/c, though it was good, it was fairly small and the most expensive entree on the menu. Not sure if that changed though. I think you'll have a good experience. Not a great physical space, but the best cooking in Bethesda.

Pax,

Brian

Only if you order asparagus each time.

Henny, I preferred the Gargoyle pun.