Joe H

I have been a huge Washington state fan for a long time.  2012 is perhaps their best year ever.  97 points for the vintage from the Wine Advocate with some individual wines representing the absolute best of the state-ever.

But this is about two wines.  One is locally known as the "Eagle Eater":

11/14/15 - "10 Things We Don't Know About Screaming Eagle" by W. Blake Gray on winesearcher.com

is an article about Screaming Eagle which includes a very interesting comment, the sixth one down.  It notes that a '12 WA wine, Woodinville Cellars '12 Reserve "once again" beat Screaming Eagle in a brown bag tasting.

Several friends of mine and I were struck by this.  Especially since Woodinville Cellars '12 Reserve has not been reviewed by anyone and, there are only our barrels of it-none of which come East.

We bought three cases @ $40.00 a bottle with free shipping. ($50 list):

2012 Woodinville Wine Cellars on woodinvillewine.com

and took delivery of them two weeks ago.  Three of us could not wait and opened one of the bottles.  Initial swirl and sip after only a couple of minutes of air for the bottle was "at least a 94-96" from all of us.  An hour later we opened a second bottle-the first bottle was now "in the high '90's."  We also all agreed that if this had been $150 a bottle we would not have been disappointed.  It was that good.  An absolutely remarkable wine regardless of what it cost.  Never mind the $1500+ per bottle release cost of a single bottle of Screaming Eagle-the '12 Woodinville Reserve would hold its own against anything.

Having said this, considering the cost, we picked up the phone and bought two more cases.

The 2012 Woodinville Reserve really is the "Eagle Eater" described.  We now have a total of 5 of the approximately 90 cases that were made.  With all of them at hand I can tell the world:  as I write this there are only a few cases left and I have no financial interest in them in any way.  Until a few weeks ago I knew nothing about them.  Now, having talked to the winemaker, Sean Boyd, whose father was the original editor of the Wine Spectator in the early '80's (!), I have to share my enthusiasm.

A few DC restaurants really should have this on their wine lists.  This speaks well, really well, for Washington-both state and D. C. the city.

And, there is another '12 WA state wine:  Bergevin Lane Moonspell cabernet.  The '11 picked up 92 points from the Wine Spectator which is especially remarkable since it is a $28 wine.  One of their highest ratings for the price for the year.  The '12 Moonspell is better.  I actually think much better.  Almost breathtaking the kind of point rating that this $28 wine might receive.

I have now bought six cases of the '12 Moonspell-three for me and three for friends. I also know Bergevin Lane having bought their cabs (Intuition, Moonspell) every year since 2007.  But this is their best.  A remarkable value that is jammy, unctuous, mouth coating and full of fruit. Full bodied, too, 14.5+ %.

They are still trying to sell the 92 point WS '11 Moonspell and have not actually started trying to sell their '12.  But they will.  They, similar to Woodinville, do not have a distributor in the D. C. area-you will have to call them and buy direct.  Annette Bergevin at Bergevin Lane, Sean Boyd at Woodinville.  This is the website for the '11 Moonspell.

Both wineries will hold their wines and ship in the spring.

I am actually wondering if I should have bought a little bit more of each?

Happy New Year !!!!

After 8 months of traveling basically every week, hubby is cashing in some of his miles and points so we can spend a week together in Europe.  We'll be flying into Paris and spending 2.5-3 days there (we'll get there around lunchtime on a Sunday and then we'll head to our next destination on Wednesday afternoon).  I haven't been to Paris since 1998, and Jason has never been.  Neither of us speak French, though I am going to try to learn a bit in the next two months.  Any recommendations regarding not-to-miss food, both upscale and otherwise, would be much appreciated.  Also, any thoughts on hotels would be great as well - though we are trying to stick to SPG and/or Hilton properties, as that is where Jason has some points for free nights.

Can't wait to hear peoples' thoughts!  I'm also obviously going to pore over this thread for a bit...lots of wisdom!  

I have 110,000 Starwood points left over from 30+ years of heavy travel (United almost two million miles, 1K six times).  We have used hundreds of thousands of Starwood points over the years at various hotels in North America and Europe.

Paris is one of the worst to use them.  Most hotels are category 6 or 7 with, I believe, only the Le Meridien a Category five (12-16,000) points a night.  Category 6 is 20,000+ and Category 7 is 30,000+.  Depending on where, the fourth night or the fifth night may be "free."

For comparison Westins in downtown D. C. and Georgetown are category 5 which are 12-16,000 and Westins in the suburbs are all category 4 which is 10,000 points.

Not all European locations require as many points as Paris-it is one of the absolute worst.  I would save my points for other cities where the most expensive hotel is a category five (12,000) points and consider this alternative for Paris:  call the U. S. Embassy and ask for their list of hotels which they give visitors.  These will all be hotels in the 7th and 8th Arr and they will accept government per diem.  This means you'll be literally in the center of Paris a few blocks from the Champs d'Elysee and paying about E 150 a night or less.  More than likely the hotels will be 25-50 rooms and not have room service or a restaurant.  They will have feather pillows, good sheets, cable TV with flat screens, rooms comparable to a Marriott or Hilton, staff that speak English and are eminently affordable.

I used hotels like this in a number of European cities for more than 20 years-all from calling local American Embassies.  I always stayed in the 7th or 8th even though I did business near DeGaulle.  When the Euro strengthened it no longer made sense to pay E 300 or more a night so I started calling the Embassy.  (I paid my own expenses.) I should note here that my wife who then worked for NSF had a good friend in the American Embassy in Paris and told us that MANY people called asking for the list of preferred hotels who accepted per diem.  They were happy to supply it.

For Starwood points in Europe most German cities have excellent properties that are category 4 or 5.  Problem with Paris (and major cities in Italy such as Venice, Florence, Rome) is that hotels which fit these categories are either older or tend to be in suburban areas.

FWIW we are using Starwood points in Vancouver in May at a new Westin in the center of downtown for about 10,000 points a night (fifth night is free). The Seattle Westin for a couple of nights, too.  The points that these SEVEN nights will "cost" us total about 60,000.  That would be equal to the St. Regis for TWO nights in Paris.

We are also flying on United miles.

I'm not sure if Nielsen's uses corn syrup or sugar as their sweetener, but I am sure that this custard tastes really good - it was (and hopefully will be) a worthy competitor to The Dairy Godmother in Del Ray, but I'm having trouble thinking of any other frozen custard in this area that even approaches this level.

Carl's in Fredericksburg which has original Electro Freeze machines.  The only original Electro Freeze machines left in the state of VA.  Frozen custard there (when it openes in the spring) tastes exactly as it did sixty years ago. And, in the summer, the lines will be as long.

Best wishes to Neilsen's and The Dairy Godmother.

After seeing "something" on fb, I came back here to reread about Barcelona Wine Bar on 14th (and elsewhere)   Frankly the reviews of meals look pretty good.  Admittedly I haven't been there:

But its that FB "something" that grabbed my attention:

Based on comments about the chain, and the "execution" and set up...and lets get back to the reviews about the food....it would seem that being a chain and presenting excellent meals and service are NOT mutually exclusive--> but it is difficult.

In any case...returning to the "commercial" side of things...that "something" seen in FB.  (it is Christmas time)  

barcelona wine bar.png

Went to the Barcelona in Reston a week ago and toasted Estadio and its owner who sadly has passed.  Barcelona was mediocre chain but I liked the ambience.  Estadio was special.  We did not have paella but I make paella (bomba rice, serious chicken stock, smoked papripka, saffron, chicken from Fields of Athenry...) and have become hesitant to order it in any restaurant this side of the Atlantic no matter the reputation.  Actually it's really difficult to find a good paella in Spain, too.

I mentioned above that I have almost two million miles on United, 65 trips to Europe in a ten year period and other ad nauseum fluff.  For most of the 30+ years that I was in my industry I was also a straight commission salesman paying all of my own expenses.  (title aside this is what it came down to)  This meant that it might have cost $750 to fly from Dulles to Cleveland or $850 to fly from National to Charlotte.  At some point I decided to drive when the fares were this high.  Even if I had driven from Reston to BWI (for Southwest or a competitive fare on United)  by the time I factored in that drive, the flight, renting a car and then driving X miles to where I was going it really was only an hour or two longer to drive.  It made sense.  And $500+ cheaper which allowed a hotel room and enough left over for a case of good wine.

I drove a lot.  And bought a lot of wine.

As I type this I am sipping on a glass of '04 Clio that I bought a case of after a driving trip to Sandusky, OH instead of flying.  I remember the trip, remember that I really did not want to drive.  But there were so many trips like this that the fares, rental car, etc. really added up.  That morning @5:00AM I left for a noon lunch and afternoon presentation at Cedar Point.  I was home that night by midnight and spent $500 or so buying the case of Clio from NJ.  There were a lot of trips like that.  Now, retired and with 7 or 8 years of age on the wine, I am toasting a good decision.

In retrospect if I hadn't flown so much I would have even more to drink...

'04 Clio is seriously good.

And then there was Piedmont, the Trump Shuttle (remember "If our shuttle is full from New York to DC, we'll fly another plane, even if you're the only passenger?") - there were plenty of low-cost options in the 80s, and all of them are getting absorbed into large mega-airlines (refer to the U.S. Air - American merger). You know what this sounds like? The banks. The barriers to entry in this market are enormous, and although I'm not a fan of government intervention, I'm starting to think it may not be such a bad idea here. 

Ryan Air is an interesting experience.  So was World Airways from BWI to Gatwick in the mid '80's for $299 roundtrip.  As I type this, given the 30 years, that actually doesn't sound nearly as cheap as it was at the time.

If your friend is 6'5", shouldn't he have attempted mitigation by purchasing an economy plus ticket, rather than expect the person in front not to recline for a red eye?  

Astrid, I know a bit about United:  I am a Million Mile Flyer and 6 time 1K who now has close to two million miles actually flown.  In the '80's and '90's (or sometime many years ago) Economy Plus didn't exist.  My friend asked for an exit row which, at one time, usually meant more room.  Those seats weren't available.

I also did not say that he (and I) asked the person not to recline.  We asked if we could compromise and the person "would only go back one "notch."  

From your perspective the person in front had the right to recline on any flight, perhaps especially on a red eye.  But my friend also had the right to cross his legs.  Especially on a red eye.  If, when he as a 6'5" passenger crossed his legs, he knocked the fully reclined seat a bit then that was part of the price that the person in front of him paid for their refusal to compromise.  

FWIW, I'm 6'1" and I really don't think Economy Plus is that spacious (pick a word).  There is, however, a lot to be said for seeking out specific seats on certain planes (i.e. row 21 on a trip 7 overwater which is directly behind the rows where the crew sleeps and has more leg room than even first class, exit row by a window seat of a three seat row behind a two seat row, exit row by a door, etc.).  One of the reasons I have so many miles on United (aside from 30+ years of heavy travel) is that I don't qualify for the equivalent of an Economy Plus seat on most other airlines.  The result is that i try to fly on United.  Having said this I used to think of Southwest as a cattle airline.  Today, it is better than most others.

Again, there was a time when Economy Plus didn't exist, On most airlines traditional coach seats had a bit more leg room.

I have a friend who is 6'5".  A number of years ago we sat next to each other on a full coach flight where he was assigned the middle seat.  Soon after taking off the person in the seat in front of him pulled his seat lever and reclined all the way back.  It hit my friend's knees.  Several times both my friend and I politely asked the person who had reclined all the way if we couldn't "compromise" and, perhaps, he would only go back one "notch" which would help my 6'5" friend.  Essentially he said no, he had bought his seat and felt that he had the right to recline-it was his "space."

Besides it was a red eye from LAX to IAD and he planned on sleeping.

Over the next five hours my 6'5" friend had to cross his legs a number of times.  As I type this I am certain that the person who refused to compromise and insisted on their seat being all the way back did not get very much sleep.

In fact his back probably became a bit sore from my friend's knees knocking him in the back.  I also remember my friend resting a blanket on his knee so when he crossed it it would not bother him.  Only the person trying to sleep in front of him with their seat all the way back.

Of course today airlines no longer give you a blanket on a coast to coast flight but that is another matter.

What I considered two excellent posts by Joe H from the wonderful What do you do with Two weeks in Western Europe thread  had me think back to some unmatched experiences that generally followed Joe H's suggestions from here

and an excerpt from this subsequent post

Certainly my most memorable experiences were from exploring and meeting invariably friendly and helpful natives:

Joe's suggestions reminded me of this unforgettable experience:

In the late 70's I spent 2 weeks in Greece and environs; 1 week on my own and 1 week traveling with a companion.  In the first week, while on my own I took a boat from Athens to Crete;  landing in Heraklion, the capital, plus on the Northern Coast of Crete roughly midway between East and West.  The late 70's;  there were guide books, but my plans were sketchy with the intent to rent a motorbike and ride the Northern Coastal Road with Mediterranean on one side and mountains on the other side.

When I approached an operator about renting a motorbike, he recognized my accent and relative youth and similarity in age and responded to my request with this somewhat "challenging question";  "Are you capitalist, communist, or socialist?"    (Oh damn, politics were going to intrude upon my vacation!!!!!)

Luck struck.  I had and carried in my wallet a business card from Ringling Brothers Barnum and Bailey, formerly headquartered in the DC area.  It was colorful with lions and elephants on it.  I responded:  "I'm none, I'm circus"...and showed him the colorful card.

How lucky.  He exulted "I love circus".   We spoke a bit and he convinced me to wait a day and he would take me on a tour of the Eastern trip along the Coastal Highway and introduce me to friends.   And so we did for one day on 2 motorbikes amidst gorgeous weather.  A highlight was stopping at a roadside inn, possibly halfway East.  He knew the owner and had me show them the business card and we all spoke circus.   We dined on fish pulled fresh from onsite aquarium storage having been recently caught.  It was incredible.  The hosts were spectacular and experience was breathtaking.

On the following day I traveled alone on the Western route of this wonderful scenic highway and stopped at a similar inn wherein he had contacted the owner and told him I'd be visiting.  The hospitality was similarly beyond gracious and the meal was again of a method and quality that I had never previously experienced.  All I did was show the circus business card.

I've had other similarly wonderful experiences by exploring and engaging natives in a variety of nations and domestically but that was the best.   I agree with Joe H.  Its a wonderful way to travel.   On the other side of the coin, I know my natural inclination has been to be similarly friendly and helpful to travelers and I've witnessed the same from others I know.  Its often the most rewarding way to travel.  I concur with Joe H.

Wonderful post, DaveO - just wonderful.  Thank you for sharing.

We have not been-yet-but will go soon for a birthday.  Several friends, whose opinions I trust, insist this may be the benchmark for restaurants in Washington today.  Specifically, the Chef's Table ($150 prix fixe for 8 to 10 courses), which may be the best of its kind in D. C.  I've also heard this compared to Laboratorio.  Another friend noted that it was "the best Chef's Table" they have experienced "in years."  I believe the Chef's Table seats six, communally, and is adjacent or directly across from the kitchen.  There are also four seats at the kitchen counter which, similar to Rose's Luxury' counter seats, front directly on the kitchen.  These last seats, I believe, are available for the regular menu.

There are only two comments in this entire thread from someone who has eaten at Masseria.  Has anyone reading this experienced the Chef's Table or the kitchen counter?

Photographs of the kitchen counter and the Chef's Table are shown here:  https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/going-out-guide/wp/2015/07/15/union-market-is-about-to-get-its-first-standalone-restaurant-in-nick-stefanellis-masseria/

We're getting off-topic enough where I'll have to move these (to here), but I'm almost certain Brey was too young to be on that team. Hawkeye Whitney and Charles Branch (Adrian's older brother who was the Washington Post Player of the Year if I'm remembering correctly) with Brey? I think that's closer.

Don't forget Brian Magid and Cedric Boatman, Mr. Heflin.

Two players on the '65 DeMatha team went to Notre Dame:  Bob Whitmore and Sid Catlett.  They established a link and a tradition between DeMatha and Notre Dame which Mike Brey, a '77 DeMatha graduate and Notre Dame coach proudly continues.

I edited above--I meant I was confused because we read that the dress code is "no jeans and must have jackets" and we saw several people violating each.

Also I look much more like Notre Dame basketball coach Mike Brey than Don Johnson

Mike Brey?  DeMatha.  I am old enough to have seen them beat Lew Alcindor and Power Memorial at Cole Field House....

When I saw your mention of "denim" I thought of jeans which seemed inappropriate for a dinner that realisitically would be $1,000 per couple.  Now "Miami Vice" is a different matter:  that would be appropriate.  More than appropriate, I would applaud!  Especially if I could lose a few pounds and look good dressed like this.

Sorry:  before there was Don Johnson there was Davey Crockett.  I really am old!

Not sure I understand what "Crockett" style means. Davey Crockett which means jeans?  

I have found over the years that friends and neighbors want to go where other friends and neighbors have been to.  For many an early trip to Europe should be about where there can be a reference.  For many Americans Italy is thought of as Rome, Florence and Venice while France is mostly Paris.  For the English the same is true for the south coast of Spain, for Russians the Egyptian resort in the press recently, for Germans almost anywhere in Italy, even in distant Argentina.  St. Petersburg-Florida-is home to a great many Quebecois as is Old Orchard Beach and Myrtle Beach.  Vancouverites go to Palm Springs as well as Victoria.

And so forth.

My point is that many visit, take vacations where their friends and neighbors may have a frame of reference.  I am only suggesting that some of these "typical" destinations are not necessarily the most beautiful nor the most interesting. Even in the destination itself.  So many look for that which is familiar, that which they can talk to a neighbor about.  As I noted above I can imagine that many Europeans have walked on the Mall in D. C. but few, if any, have walked the Wilson bridge or, in the Spring, the Chesapeake Bay bridge.  Certainly they've never even heard of Fort Washington. (!)

I love Cortina, I based business trips in Soave, stayed in Bolzano while travelling from Munich to Verona.  I rarely met an American in Cortina, never met an American in Soave and wished I could speak German in Bolzano.  I should also mention that a Milanese developer had moved into the 1,000+ year old walled city and was renovating ancient structures for sale to those who spent weekends nearby.

With the Euro @ 1.06 as I type this these are condominiums worth a fantasy.  Certainly worth a discussion.

Perhaps a first trip to Europe should be to the familiar.  But for second trips, for a life's adventure I urge anyone reading this to explore.  Almost 25 years ago I was in another Italian walled city, Montagnana.  After my business was over I had the next day free.  The company who entertained me suggested that I should see Venice-that it was beautiful and I would have a memory when I returned to America to discuss with my friends and neighbors.  Not Montagnana which was adventurously, enchantingly beautiful (and unheard of) but Venice which, for many of my American friends and neighbors, would be familiar.

Several years later I was in Venice, having a glass of wine sitting next to a couple from, I think, Munich-at least somewhere in Bavaria.  We were in Alle Testiere a small restaurant that I passionately love.  We talked about where we, Americans, had visited in Italy and where they, Germans, had discovered.  At some point they mentioned a walled city somewhere south of Verona.  One of them thought the name was Montagnana but couldn't spell it in German let alone Italian.

I couldn't believe what I was hearing.  Montagnana.  A discovery for someone from Germany.  Unheard of to an American:  a walled city where nobody I ever met had even heard of.  Yet, I was sitting next to a couple from another country who like me had fallen in love with it.

For your second trip, go and explore.  Get lost.  Perhaps you'll meet someone from elsewhere that one day you'll remember and write about.  You may even have a memorable glass of wine which would not taste as good if you were in America.  You may even bring the empty bottle back in your luggage and, one day, look at it and remember the night you had a glass from it.

There is much to be said for literally getting lost and sharing the adventure of discovery. My nod to tech is a navigation system that will always allow me to find my way back to my hotel-if I want. There is great pleasure in research; there can be great pleasure too in finding what one might have never heard or thought of. Some times, perhaps often, the Internet can be a huge distraction from what is outside the window or through a door.

Guides aside, there is much to be said for walking down a street, looking in a restaurant or a bistro and getting a "feeling" about it.  If you walk in the door and don't hear a word of English it is even more interesting.  Talking, perhaps in broken English, with the couple who sit next to you and, say, live in the Parisian suburbs can add to the experience.

On my earlier trips to Paris I went to starred restaurants along with popular and touristy attractions.  Over the years I built friendships as part of my business travel there and began to look at Paris from a different perspective.  A good friend's wife who lived north of CdG would not go into "the city."  She was born there and didn't like going to the "city centre" or centreville.  Myself, born in D. C. and having lived near the Cathedral, Silver Spring and Reston I have friends who feel the exact same way about Washington that she did about Paris.  Still, a native born Parisian saying this was interesting.

But she had done the sewer tour.  And, like me, she grew up with Jim Morrison and the Doors and had been to his grave.  She, and her husband, had also played bocce ball near the base of the Eiffel tower.  Over time I began to feel comfortable with their suburban neighborhood much as I felt and feel comfortable with Silver Spring and Reston.

Yet other Parisians I knew didn't go into the suburbs-they stayed in the city. In the 7th, 8th and elsewhere.  They didn't have a car, they didn't have any interest in much of anything outside of the Peripherique.  Much like many in D. C., in Adams Morgan, Bloomingdale or Capitol Hill, do not venture into our suburbs.

I'm not sure how many reading this have seen the White House or have been in the Air and Space Museum.  Or stood in line for Rose's Luxury as other tourists do today.  I'm also not sure how many Americans have been to Paris and only seen the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower and invested in a Michelin starred restaurant.

But as D. C. is truly beautiful to walk along the C & O Canal towpath-even to walk the Wilson Bridge or the Chesapeake Bay bridge, to sit on the steps of the Library of Congress or to modestly walk into the majesty of the National Cathedral so is Paris-if you get away from where all the other tourists go.  I'm not sure how many tourists-or locals-have even seen what I listed above.

There is much to be said for the Eiffel Tower.  But having played bocce (or to be locally correct "petanque") a hundred or so meters away from it, that is the memory that I cherish the more.

"Everyone in France evidently believes that illness comes from exposed necks. Almost all women and many men wore scarves, even on rather warm days."

It's not just France-it's most everywhere in Europe.  Cashmere and silk feel especially nice against one's neck.

I don't know about how many Michelin stars David Toutain has (I absolutely do not trust Michelin, especially outside of France), but I know from experience that some of the best meals I've ever had have been at one- and two-star restaurants hell-bent on getting three. No different there than here.

I could not disagree with you more about not trusting Michelin outside of France.  I found, over the years, that I tended to agree with their starred restaurants in Italy and Germany as often as I did with their opinions about starred restaurants in France.

Gault Millau, L'Espresso and others were valuable as well.  Often I would take a consensus of those opinions as well as research someone whose opinions had tended to reflect mine at other restaurants.  Simple example:  I agree with Tom Sietsema far more than I disagree with his evaluations.  I agree with Todd Kliman far less.  A Sietsema rave will have more importance to me than Kliman.  If Dave MacIntyre raves about a particularly jammy, fruity full bodied red I am probably going to buy a bottle before the week is out.  I would not say this about many other wine writers-but I think I understand Dave's taste and feel that some of his preferences mirror mine.

There is another source, however:  chefs.  If, say, Roberto Donna would tell me about a restaurant he likes I will find a way to go.  This includes a Turkish/Lebanese/Greek restaurant in Frederick that he introduced me to which was wonderful.  A fair question for an accomplished chef overseas is where they would go for an anniversary meal?  Of, if there was one chef within 100 km who would they want to have eat at their table?  The next question is what would they serve him or her and, of course, I would immediately order it for that evening.

You are going to do what you need to do and what you believe.  I wish you the absolute best.

Other trip notes.

We lucked into some recordbreakingly great weather thus far in our trip, sunny and in the high teens celcius on most days. The Mediterranean Sea in Cote d'Azur is warm enough to swim in. Sometimes fools (traveling in November, generally considered the worst weather month for the region) just get very very lucky.

Almost no snow in Haut Pyrennes except for the permanent snow caps on the very tallest peaks. The ski area around Pic du Midi are impressive for the scale of ski lift coverage and the outstanding views from both sides. Cirque de Gavarnie was pretty enough, but not nearly as spectacular as the views from the high mountain passes.

Provence feels like an incredible bargain coming from DC. The Aix market prices are maybe 75% off of prices at comparable DC farmer's markets. These guys and gals know how to make an alluring pile of vegetables or tray of cyclamens.

The Airbnb apartments that we have stayed at are fabulous. Beautifully renovated places near the center. Nice accommodating hosts. Generous bathrooms and kitchen spaces. It's really a great option for longer stays (for shorter stays, the hassle of research and communicating with hosts, plus per stay cleaning fees, may tip the balance towards hotels).

If you want to sleep with top sheets, pack them in your luggage.

France feels like a different world, but Basque lands feels strangely familiar to me, like a more beautiful version of California combined with Chinese provincial cities.

Aix's town center is indeed very beautiful, but let me also put in a good word for Arles as a base.  The town itself is almost as quaint and lovely as Aix, only much quieter and easier to get around.  There's enough Roman ruins, castles, churches, and nature within easy driving distance to easily occupy a week.  Aix is better for access to Grasse and Cote d'Azur, however.

Guggenheim Bilbao's restaurant Nerua and bistro both gets fully booked up even in November,luckily the bar is quite good and not too busy.

If you don't have the time, skip the Marie Antoinette portion of the Versailles tour, it's a really really long walk and what you see may not be worth the amount of effort exerted.

Laduree macarons (purchased in Versailles as an alternative to lunch) are well made, but too sweet for my taste.  Looking forward to eating all the pastries and chocolates, once we're in Paris again.

The drive from Cannes to Frejus is like Arizona with a beach front and infested by architects looking for challenges.

When the concierge at Hotel Artetxe (fantastic little hotel with a great view of the city) tell you that you can walk to the Guggenheim, he meant the fully paved path with properly maintained concrete stairs. Not the Google recommended route that starts in a gravel road and end in a 45 degree gravel footpath with slippery wet grass and fallen leaves.

We have lost the ability to drive by map (I had lugged the full Michelin France map book in our luggage, that was foolish). Luckily, free WiFi at many locations and Google map app's offline capabilities have saved many drives from utter disaster.

Le Clos Y in Paris failed to live up to my expectations - food was impeccably prepared and used good ingredients, but somewhat lacking in deliciousness for me.  Ugh!

The awful situation in Paris is certainly causing some possible concerns for the final leg of our trip. Though our host in Donostia informs me that they made a cross border round trip yesterday with only minor delays. I imagine that Paris will be very different.

There is a great deal of fear right now in Paris-it is not going to be the same experience that it might have been before last Friday.    For myself, if possible, I would cancel the entire Parisian portion of the trip and instead go to Verona, Venice and Cortina.  I believe you will eat certainly as well (three star Le Calandre outside of Padua, three star Dal Pescatore outside of Mantova, what I wrote above about Venice.  The Dolomites are spectacularly beautiful, Verona is romantic and Venice is unmatched anywhere else on earth.  Especially in November without many tourists.  Stay at Giabbio D'ior in Verona  You'll literally be in the middle of the ancient city and can walk everywhere.  Autostrada and train are nearby, Venice is an hour train ride, Padua an45 minute drive for dinner and Cortina one hour northeast up into the high moutnains where you should get lost exploring.  There is also a superb Michelin starred restaurant there that is unearthly beautiful.

Go to Paris when you will feel comfortable-not now.  Fly out of Verona or Venice our if you want a nonstop back the closest airports will be Milan's Malpensa and Munich's.

Also consider Strausberg and the German Kaiserstuhl along with the German Black forest.  THE SINGLE BEST RESTAURANT ON YOUR ENTIRE TRIP WILL BE IN BAIERSBROON, Germany:  Schwarzwaldstube.  It is the first three

german three star and the most difficult reservation in the 85 million Germany to get.  I think it is better than anywhere in Paris.  Certainly as good as anywhere. Call them and ask.  They are also in one of the most beautiful places on earth.  The Kaisterstuhl is the German wine country and it is idyllic-not known by Americans but that is part of its charm.

Honestly, I much prefer all of this, the German/Strausburg stops and the KaisterstuhlBlack Forest excusion along with an alternative to Northern Italy than anywhere in France.

Good luck,.

I've had 15 or more trips to Paris since the late '90's but would not go right now.  I wouldn't hesitate to return to the others.

Even then Jimmy Comber's, Leonie's and certainly not Sammy's Villa in White Oak didn't compare to Ledo's.  There were just too many friday nights of "non productive" barhopping and we ended up with a choice:  Hofberg's or Ledo's to console ourselves.  Not even Pop's on Henderson compared although some nights we found ourselves downtown at Anna Maria's or Luigi's, later Georgetown's Gepetto's.

Actually even when we were fortunate enough to meet someone we'd still end up at Ledo's or Hofberg's or Anna Maria's.

The lovely proprietor of the B&B we stayed at knew the family and called to set everything up for us.  When we had arrived she asked what we wanted to see and I essentially said that I wanted to see either Dal Forno or Quintarelli.  Unfortunately at the time Dal Forno's harvest was running late due to the warm weather extending out - but despite the fact that they were undergoing some significant renovations to their home / winery (there was a giant crane in the road that I almost had to go off road to get around) they generously offered to let us come by.

They were the kindest family.  Francesco and his father (Quintarelli's son in law I believe) conducted the tasting and made sure the case we purchased was essentially bomb proofed for the journey back.

Did you go to Dal Forno?  We first met Romano and his wife 15 or so years ago and were extremely fortunate because their then (young) son, Michele wanted to practice his English when we visited in December.  They were wonderful and spent perhaps two or three hours with us.  We repeated this almost every year for a decade.  I usually brought several bottles of American (i.e. K Vintners Royal City,, Caymus Special Selection, and green chili New Mexico pistachios, even Monks of Gethsemani fruitcake.  We've built up a friendship and are honored to know them.  Today, MIchele is married and around 35 and has a large role in the family business.  It is an absolute honor and pleasure for us to continue to visit them.

We won't make it to Italy for this trip.  But that's certainly good to know for a future trip. 

We'll be getting Le Cinq's lunch at 145 Euros.  Still a tidy sum, but less breathtakingly so.  I know a few people who have been in the past and didn't think highly of it.  However, Parisbymouth claimed that under its current chef, it's better than any of the Paris 3-stars.  TheFork and Tripadvisor reviews seem to back this up.  So while we're prepared to be let down, hopefully we've tipped the balance in our favor.

l'Astrance is the Paris 3-star bargain, at 70 Euros for lunch.  But other places sounded more interesting, so we're going to pass on it this time.

Le Cinq is sumptuous luxury and that is part of the price and the experience.  It's been several years but l'Astrance was a virtually impossible reservation but worth the effort:  three stars today.  Interestingly Alain Ducasse lost a star and is now two.

A great part of the enjoyment of a trip is the research and anticipation of what you'll experience.  That becomes even more interesting when you research restaurants where none of the reviews are in English and you have to google translate everything you read.  I did this last night with La Fornace (which I mentioned above).  Not a single English speaking person has been there recently.  For myself this became a real attraction of places that I researched.  I did not want to feel like I was in D. C. or NY-I wanted to feel like I was in another country.  I say this because some of your best experiences on your upcoming trip will be places that you stumble on and have a "feeling" about.  When you communicate through gestures and facial expressions it can help put the dining experience over the top.

If you end up looking at Northern Italy, in particular Verona - I definitely have some recommendations:

- We were in and around Verona for 3 days and stayed at Villa Archi (http://www.villaarchi.it/en/), spend the extra and stay in the panoramic suite

- In addition to Quintarelli we visited Steffano Accordini (up in the mountains, while a hair raising ride to the top, the view was unbelievable).

- We loved walking around Verona proper (20 or so min from the B&B, the amphitheater is really incredible and I can only imagine what it's like seeing an opera there.

- In terms of restaurants we enjoyed Osteria Giuletta, Trattoria Al Pompiere and Ristorante Oste Scuro

I'll also reiterate that this board helped TREMENDOUSLY and that Joe H in particular really gave us some advice that proved to be right on (I still have a jar of calibrian peppers for him from the autogrills )

Ah...Quintarelli!

And Calabrian hot peppers!!!!

And panini at the AutoGrill.

Thank you, sir.